The watches of the most powerful men in the world, the Commander in Chief

Todd Beamer’s gold and steel Rolex was found among the debris from Flight 93. While the hands are disfigured and the sapphire crystal is gone, the date window–frozen in time– still reads “11.” Remembering the heroes of September 11th Attacks: On the morning of September 11th, 2001, Todd Beamer, a 32-year-old Account Manager at Oracle, rose early to catch United Airlines Flight 93 from Newark to San Francisco for a business trip. As part of his morning routine, he snapped the clasp shut on the two-tone jubilee bracelet of his 36mm Rolex Datejust Turn-O-Graph before heading out the door at 6:15 am, leaving his pregnant wife, Lisa, and their two children at home.  After a 42 minute delay, he boarded Flight 93; it departed from Gate 17 at Newark Liberty International Airport and took off at 8:42 am. At 9:28 am, the calm Tuesday morning flight was interrupted when Al Qaeda hijackers, led by Ziad Samir Jarrah, used box cutters and a supposed explosive device to take control of the plane and divert the aircraft back east towards Washington D.C. The hijackers moved Beamer and the other 43 passengers to the rear of the plane. Using cellphones and seatback phones, the passengers contacted loved ones and airport officials and learned that three other aircraft were weaponized and deliberately crashed into some of our nation’s most important buildings: the Pentagon and World Trade Center. Beamer and other passengers acted fast and stormed the cockpit in an effort to take back the aircraft. Beamer’s last words were recorded through the seatback phone. If I don't make it, please call my family and let them know how much I love them...Are you ready? Okay, Let's roll. At 10:03 am, Flight 93 crashed into a field near Shanksville, Pennsylvania, just 20 minutes flying time from the terrorists’ intended target: the U.S. Capital. Beamer and a number of other passengers had thwarted Al Qaeda’s plans.  Beamer’s gold and steel Rolex was found among the debris from Flight 93. While the hands are disfigured and the sapphire crystal is gone, the date window–frozen in time– still reads “11.” His watch is a two-tone 18k yellow gold Rolex Datejust Turn-O-Graph, likely reference 16263, with a champagne tapestry dial. Despite the use of precious metal, the watch was originally developed as a tool watch in the early 1950s with a bidirectional bezel for timing. Nicknamed the “Thunderbird,” it was issued in the late 1950s to the U.S. Air Force Air Demonstration Squadron pilots, with the famed unit’s insignia on the dial. Late 1950s Rolex advertisement. Hanging on the wall of my office is an old Rolex advertisement that I see everyday. The copy, in bold, reads, “Men who guide the destinies of the world wear Rolex Watches.” The ad is clearly meant to conjure up images of Presidents, Generals and Diplomats– but what Beamer did that day is exactly what the ad says: he changed the course of history. Had he and the other brave passengers on the plane not acted, the aircraft would have continued to Washington D.C. and likely inflicted significant harm on the U.S. Capitol, the heart of American democracy. Beamer was an ordinary American who showed extraordinary courage during a time of need. He was a man of action. Like most great men, the man made the watch, not the other way around. The fact that he was wearing a Rolex is insignificant, but the watch lives on as a memorial to him and his fellow passengers that made the ultimate selfless sacrifice on the morning of September 11th, 2001. Beamer’s legacy lives on beyond his parting heroic action. Let's Roll became a unifying command, a battle cry for America in the Post-9/11 era. Troops deploying to Afghanistan months later would use this as a motivational phrase to bring the fight to the enemy. Years later when I traveled to war zones, “Let’s Roll” was still commonly heard before departing on an operation or seen painted on a gym wall at remote U.S. Government outposts. Today, Beamer’s mangled Rolex is on display in the National September 11 Memorial Museum in New York City, along with an Oracle business card discovered in the wreckage, both donated by his wife, Lisa, to honor his sacrifice and legacy. The date window still chillingly displays the day that the world changed forever; “11.” Let's Roll - CIA in Afghanistan after 9/11 attacks. Beamer’s father, David Beamer, would later remark to the New York Times, “The function of the watch is supposed to be to tell time. What it doesn’t tell is what time it is anymore. What it does tell is what time it was. It marks the time that a successful counterattack on Flight 93 came to an end.” There are few actions more selfless than sacrificing your life for another, and that’s exactly what the passengers of United Airlines Flight 93 did. Had the airplane continued to Washington D.C. and struck the U.S. Capitol, scores of elected officials, civil servants, and innocent civilians would have perished.  Like Beamer on the morning of September 11th, 2001, countless men and women would choose to roll into action and answer the call to serve in the wake of 9/11.  This Dispatch is in honor of the 2,977 people who died on September 11th, 2001 and Todd Beamer’s wife, Lisa, and their three children.   Read Next: CIA’s JAWBREAKER Team And A Rolex Submariner This newsletter has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

In Watch and Firearm Collecting, Details Matter I purchased a new Rolex GMT Master II “Batman” directly from an authorized Rolex dealer (“AD”). After photographing the watch in my studio, I was surprised to see a production error that I had never seen before. In the “8” in the “18” on the bezel, the top circle is blue, while the bottom is black.

As I type this Dispatch, I am on a transatlantic flight to London for a short visit, a mix of business and pleasure.  As a former CIA Case Officer, separating the two can be difficult.  In my W.O.E. travel pouch is my Rolex GMT Master II 16710.  On my wrist is the Arabic Seiko, the understated watch that I plan to wear while in London due to the increased watch theft in the city. Why I am bringing the Rolex at all is a story for another time. Arabic Seiko Once an obscure watch, the “Arabic Seiko” (aka the "Seik-W.O.E." and the W.O.E. hype watch) is a popular reference within the W.O.E. community, and for good reason.  In part, its popularity is owed to the fact that it’s just a downright cool and unique piece at an affordable price point–but it’s also received consistent coverage on W.O.E. to bolster its reputation.   Just as important, however, is the deep meaning it has for our community.  Many of us have spent a considerable amount of time in the Middle East over the past 20+ years.  I personally have a strong affinity for the rich culture and language of the Arab world and this piece is a constant reminder of that connection and that specific period in my life.  A lot of veterans and NatSec folks can identify with this connection. Additionally, while I never wore a Seiko in any operational capacity during my time at the CIA, the Japanese brand has a long history in the Intelligence and Special Operations community. Our predecessors in the 1960s and 1970s wore "SOG" Seikos during covert operations carried out during the Vietnam War. Maritime Special Operations units (including the Navy SEALs) were issued Seiko Divers until at least the mid-1990s and the CIA even modified a digital Seiko with a covert camera for intelligence collection.  In short, the ref Arabic Seiko connects with every facet of the community in one way or another, and that’s what makes it so popular. It is a great conversation starter, and you can’t go wrong with this W.O.E. “hype watch.” Origin Story If this is the first time you are hearing about the Arabic Seiko, you are probably wondering how a former CIA Case Officer came across this unique timepiece. Did W.O.E. pick it up at Khan el-Khalili Souk in Cairo to support a cover legend, or receive it as an honorary gift from a Middle Eastern intelligence service after an impactful operation?  The truth is, it was purchased online.  Amazon’s algorithm served it to me in early 2022, something that I even wrote an article about for Hodinkee.  It is not a daring spy story, but it does say a lot about the state of technology and (commercial) surveillance.  Amazon knew I would like this watch before I even knew it existed, and that is fascinating.  At the time I had two Arabic-dial watches in my collection: A Breitling Aerospace (a gift from King Abdullah of Jordan), and an Arabic Breitling Aviator 8 Etihad Limited "Middle East" Edition in black steel, both watches that a treasured, something that would make my Arabic tutors in Beirut proud. W.O.E. personal Breitling and Arabic Seiko, Photo Credit: James Rupley Specs The Arabic Seiko is a simple black dialed Seiko 5, with large Eastern Arabic numerals.  The day feature is in Arabic and English, with the Arabic word for Friday (الجمعة) in Red, English “SAT” in blue and “SUN” in red, presumably honoring the holy days of the three Abrahamic faiths: Islam, Judaism and Christianity.    There are actually two readily available Arabic dial Seiko’s, the 42mm SNKP21J1 and the smaller 34mm SNK063J5.  Beyond the size, the main difference is the smaller version has an integrated bracelet, making it difficult to change out straps.  I own the 42mm and while it is larger than most watches in my collection, the 12.5mm thickness makes it wear much smaller and lie flat on the wrist.  There is a wide gap between the watch and the spring bar, making strap changes easy.  The visible caseback showing the 7S26 automatic movement is something that is always fun for those new to the hobby. Social Media and “Influence” Chrono24 video discussing correlation between W.O.E. posts and Seiko Arabic dial sales. The watch is also a story of social media “influence” and subliminal advertising.  After a month on the wrist, I posted it on the @watchesofespionage to my (then) 30,000+ followers in February 2022. Over the next 24 hours, Amazon’s price for the watch incrementally rose from $140 to well over $200, as followers were quick to visit the everything store. Within 48 hours demand surpassed supply, the watch sold out.  At time of writing, Amazon’s price for the watch is $213.01, nearly double what I paid for it. After analyzing purchasing data on Chono24 and other sites, Thomas Hendricks of Chrono24 crowned the Arabic Dials the top selling Seikos for 2022: We looked at the data and we saw spikes in sales correlating to posts from one popular account.  Watches of Espionage is a niche but influential account covering the intersection of watches and spycraft, run by an anonymous former CIA operative.  Followers of the account will remember that WOE published an article detailing his love for these Seiko references in early August of this year.  Subsequently, sales for these two references spiked significantly on Chrono24 and other platforms in the following weeks.  I now wonder how many people have purchased the Arabic Seiko watch after seeing coverage on the Watches of Espionage platform, my guess is in the thousands of pieces, most purchased online or the lucky few able to secure one in a more memorable place like Dubai.   W.O.E. personal Arabic Seiko, Photo Credit: James Rupley Advertising and Influencers We are bombarded with advertising, especially on social media, however the modern consumer (you) is not stupid.  The “wisdom of the crowd” can see through most marketing schemes and identify platforms that are genuine.  One of the reason’s the Watches of Espionage community continues to grow is authenticity, and the increase in sales of this watch is a perfect example. Despite a proposal from a major retailer for an official “affiliate” relationship (which we declined), W.O.E. hasn’t received financial remuneration from Seiko or any other company for promoting this timepiece.  This is authentic and organic promotion for altruistic reasons.  One of our goals at Watches of Espionage is preserving and promoting watch culture in the National Security space, and this watch is a fun entrée to the world of automatic watches, especially for those who wore Digital Tool Watches during the Global War on Terror (GWOT). W.O.E. personal Arabic Seiko, Photo Credit: James Rupley Conclusion At the end of the day, I do not care if you buy this watch or any other for that matter.  But if this unique and affordable timepiece catches your interest and expands your view of time, that is a good thing. Despite my now extensive and growing watch collection, the Arabic Seiko will continue to adorn my wrist on a regular basis, including this visit to the United Kingdom.  This watch has been on my wrist in 8 countries on three continents.  It has flown in helicopters, skied down mountains and been inside more than a few SCIFs.  If it is lost, stolen or damaged, it can be easily replaced at an affordable price, even if slightly inflated after the release of this article. READ NEXT: CIA Analysis Of Foreign Leaders’ Timepieces   This article has been reviewed by the CIA's Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

In this edition of the Dispatch, we answer some common questions we get about W.O.E., timepieces and the Intelligence Community at large. Many of these responses can even serve as stand alone stories– and probably will at some point–but for now, here’s some additional insight on Watches of Espionage. If you have any more questions, please ask in the comments section and we will address next time. See past questions “Ask W.O.E. Anything Part I” What advice do you have for buying watches? There are more resources than ever before on watches, and if you are reading this then you’ve already demonstrated that you’re pretty far down the rabbit hole.  Here are a few tips below for those looking to get into watches.  Also check out our previous Dispatch on “Best watches under $1,000” as a good starting point. Buy what makes you happy; no one else cares what you are wearing and 99.9% of people will not notice the watch you have on your wrist. (This one is cliché but it’s entirely true.) Buy the watch you can afford. You won't be happy if you spend more than you can afford, as “buyer’s remorse” is real and can undermine the sense of satisfaction from wearing the watch. Don't buy for investment. Your watch may appreciate, but buy with the expectation you will wear it until you die (and a loved one will wear it after you die). Values are generally trending downward in the watch world anyway. That’s not what they’re made for, and treating a watch like a financial instrument takes away something from the hobby. When in doubt, stick with a known brand: Seiko, Rolex, Breitling, Omega, Tudor, JLC, IWC, Bremont, Patek, etc.  There are some great micro brands out there (like Tornek-Rayville), but also a lot with smoke and mirrors, especially in the “tactical” space. Rome wasn’t built in a day. Any worthwhile watch company wasn’t either. Buy the seller and build a relationship with that person. If the deal looks too good to be true, it probably is.  A lot of people have had great experiences with Ebay and other online forums, but there is something about building a relationship with the actual person selling the watch that makes it special. Plus, it’s very easy to get burned on Ebay. It’s less easy to get burned by someone you know and trust. Take your time. Do your research. Even if you have the money to buy the watch you want right away, spend time learning about the different variations and history of the reference or brand. This will likely change your outlook and make you appreciate the watch you end up with even more. As a closing remark, don't feel like you need a "luxury watch," a ~$500 watch can be just as meaningful as a $5,000 watch. How do I organize Unit watch? After our “Tudors of Espionage” piece, we received a lot of queries on how to organize a “unit watch” for a specific military, law enforcement or intelligence organization.  We have heard from our industry contacts that companies across the board have received an increase in these requests.  This is cool, because “unit watches” are at the heart of watch culture in the National Security community and closely tied to the idea of “Watches of Espionage.” To review, a unit watch is a timepiece that is customized by the manufacturer for members of a specific unit or organization inside the military.  Customizations can include the unit’s insignia or motto on the dial and/or an engraving on the caseback. Occasionally, markings can be applied to the side of the case as well.   We will continue to go deeper on various unit watch programs (like Bremont Military and Special Project's Division) and guide those looking to organize a custom watch for their organization, but in the meantime, here are some initial steps: Do it: To accomplish anything in the government, you need an internal champion.  Be that champion. Nothing will happen otherwise. Build Internal Support:  For most custom watch programs, you need a minimum of 50 pieces. It needs to make sense for a manufacturer to tool up to produce a custom watch, which incurs a significant cost on their end.  Start building support within the organization and gauge interest from other unit members.  Take the opportunity to educate non-watch members why a watch is a great way to commemorate a moment in time and one's service.  Seek approval from the unit/command leadership if needed. Explore Brands: There are some great brands that provide unit watches. Each one has its pros and cons.  Decide on 3-4 that work for your unit's culture. As a starting point, look at Breitling, IWC, Omega, Tudor, Bremont Watch Company, Elliot Brown, CWC, Seiko, and Sangin. Contact the brands:  For larger brands (Tudor, IWC, Omega, etc) visit a local boutique/Authorized Dealer and explain what you're looking to accomplish.  You need someone on the inside to help shepherd you through the process, as it can often be opaque.  For smaller brands (Elliot Brown, CWC, Sangin) you should reach out directly through the website.  Some companies like Bremont have formal “Special Projects” programs and make it seamless; others are more based on personal relationships.  Ideally, have a specific idea of what you are looking for, i.e. a specific reference and design/location of the insignia. Be Patient:  These things take time.  Having spoken with some of the individuals who have shepherded Tudor pieces, these projects can take over a year for delivery. Automatic vs Quartz? There is nothing wrong with quartz movements, and anyone who says otherwise is a nerd.  Not a good “watch nerd,” just a nerd.  In general I prefer an automatic timepiece because I appreciate the craftsmanship it takes to produce an automatic movement.  Operationally, there is a strong argument for an automatic movement, as batteries will always die at the wrong time.   That said, some of the greatest military watches are quartz: CWC, Elliot Brown, and Marathon, not to mention the venerable Breitling Aerospace.  A quartz movement is likely more accurate than an automatic movement and some of these pieces are just as fashionable and robust.  There is something satisfying about picking up a watch and knowing that the date and time are set. They both have their place in the watch world.  Again, these are tools and you choose the right tool for the task. Does the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board (PCRB) censor your writing? The CIA does not “censor” my writing when it comes to beliefs, opinions, or watch content.  It does review my writing (including this piece) to ensure that it does not contain classified information.  All current and former CIA officers have a lifelong obligation to protect classified national security information, and one aspect of this lifelong commitment is submitting writing to the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board (PCRB).  This is a good thing, as it protects every party involved.  Overall, I have found the review process relatively smooth.  Like most “formers” who write about the intelligence field, I have a general understanding of what we can and cannot say and there have been no major issues with the PCRB.  There are occasionally times when the PCRB will remove a location, word, or sentence, but overall it has not impacted the core points of any of the stories I’ve written. As a private citizen, I am free to express my own opinions about the government, CIA, or watches, and I have not heard of any cases where a former CIA officer’s opinions or writings were “censored” in the traditional sense.  It appears as though the CIA has made a conscious decision to be forward-leaning by allowing formers to write (relatively) openly about their experiences.  This is also a good thing.  My personal opinion is that the Intelligence Community should protect secrets, but should also be open in educating the public on what we do.  There are a lot of misconceptions about the CIA and we are in a position to dispel those myths and educate people on the reality. By writing semi-openly, we can achieve that.  Do you sleep with your watch on? (We have received this question a lot.) I do not. Does anyone? That's weird.  I actually find myself taking my watch off often when I am at home, when typing on the computer, doing chores etc.  I haven't really put much thought into why this is but I have never slept with a watch on, and I don’t even put it on my bedside table unless traveling.  Generally, I take my watch off in the bathroom or office and have been using a W.O.E. EDC Valet in both. If anyone does sleep with their watch on, I would love to hear their rationale in the comments. Thoughts on tactical micro-brands?  Are you a poser if you did not serve in the military? When you buy a watch–any watch– you are buying into that brand and the community and reputation the brand commands.  This is especially true with micro brands/tactical brands. There are some great micro brands/tactical brands out there and several were highlighted in the “Best Watches Under $1,000” Dispatch.  That said, I do not have much first hand experience with them, so I will reserve judgment.  If you are interested in a tactical brand, I encourage you to really do your research.   In my opinion, Sangin Instruments is one of, if not the, leader in this space.  Started by a Marine Raider, they make great watches but perhaps more importantly, they’ve built a true community around the brand.  Though largely driven by the active duty military and veterans, one does not have to be a veteran to take part and you are by no means a poser if you support this brand. One other that I have also personally owned is RESCO Instruments, which was started by a former SEAL. Similar to Sangin, they have strong support from the active duty military and make a robust toolwatch. Starting a watch company is hard, really hard.  There is a reason the top watch brands have been around for over a century.  Do your research: many of these companies have good intentions, slick websites and lots of tactical dudes wearing them, but actually building a company like Sangin and RESCO is not easy or for the faint hearted. Final thought, any brand that gets you interested in watches is a good thing.  If you like the aesthetic of a watch and the guys building a brand, buy one. Try it out.  It’s all just a part of the larger process of going deeper into the hobby.  Favorite city to visit? Istanbul, Turkey; Beirut, Lebanon; Cape Town, South Africa. If you had to choose only one watch to keep forever, what would it be? From an emotional standpoint, it would likely be the titanium Royal Jordanian Breitling Aerospace, a gift from His Majesty King Abdullah II bin Al-Hussein, but from a purely aesthetic and functional perspective, it would be my Rolex GMT-Master II, an early 2000s black and red “Coke” ref 16710. For years, I have said that the Rolex GMT–any execution of the watch– is the ultimate CIA Case Officer’s watch– a classy and refined tool that signals to others you are a man of culture, yet don’t mind getting your hands dirty. A Case Officer has been described as a “PhD that can win in a bar fight,” and that fictional person would wear a Rolex GMT.  While this is less true today with the astronomical prices of “new” pre-owned models, there is still a lot of truth to it.  When traveling, the quick-change date and GMT functionality are useful for telling the time back home, and a simple wrist check is easier than pulling out a phone. The watch also captures the spirit of the often-romanticized ‘50s Rolex GMT, originally developed in the 1950s for commercial Pan Am pilots. I have an old “Root Beer” ref 16753, but the newer model is more robust and still maintains some of the vintage aspects, including drilled lug holes and the aluminum bezel.  The “Pepsi” of course is a classic, but there is something about the red and black that I have always gravitated towards.  It is just different enough to make it stand out but still retains that timeless appeal of the classic bi-color bezel formula.  How has your interest in watches evolved over time? My personal interest in watches has evolved greatly over the past year as my collection has expanded. My collection and my interest grew together in tandem.  I’m still interested in modern tool watches, but have gone down the vintage military-issued watch rabbit hole.  I recently acquired a South African issued Tudor Milsub ref 7016 and a US Navy UDT/SEAL-issued Tudor 7928.  Both of these watches are “grail” pieces for me, and for the time being I am satisfied and have so much history to learn and uncover when it comes to the pieces I already own.  I will continue to be on the lookout for unique watches with military provenance.  There is something special about owning a piece of history and being able to wear it on your wrist. What are your thoughts on watch modifications? I have never modified a watch before, but this is something I would really like to explore in the future.  The idea of taking a Tudor Black Bay 58 or an Arabic Seiko as a blank canvas and personalizing it is incredibly intriguing.  This is still a controversial practice for much of the traditional watch community.  George Bamford originally made a name for himself by customizing Rolex watches into unconventional designs, much to the chagrin of the Swiss luxury brands. Customized “Commando” Rolex Submariner (Bamford Watch Department) That said, I am not attracted to customizing a timepiece to look like another timepiece, aka a “Homage” customization.  If this makes you excited, then I am happy for you, but it is not for me. Before selling out and going corporate, our friend and spiritual mentor Cole Pennington wrote a piece for Hodinkee defending homage pieces.  I generally agree with everything Cole writes, but when it comes to this topic I respectfully disagree.  Cole points out that there is a “big difference” between homage pieces and counterfeits, but in reality whether produced by a manufacturer or individually customized, the difference is often not that big.  I would rather purchase (and wear) a Seiko that looks like a Seiko, than a Seiko that has been retrofitted to look like a Rolex. What is the future of Watches of Espionage? What new products and will they be in stock? W.O.E is and always will be an enthusiast platform.  The reason we are successful is that we are passionate about watches (and espionage) and that’s our core fundamental driving force–not profiting from the watch community.  Our goal for Watches of Espionage is to become the number one resource for military, intelligence and national security content as it relates to timepieces.  We have just scratched the surface and have a lot more to explore. We have made a lot of progress over the past year, with the launch of the website and initial W.O.E. products.  Our main focus is building a community of like-minded individuals who appreciate history and an interest in timepieces.  Content will continue to be our main focus and our intention is to keep this free and open to everyone.   Much of the watch industry works on a “pay to play” model where brands sponsor content or invite journalists to “exclusive” press trips which inevitably influences any potential watch review. Our goal is to avoid this model and remain an impartial third party in the watch industry. We will support brands and people who are doing good things.  If we enter into a partnership with a brand, it will be on our terms and will not be just a transaction for cash to exploit our relationship with the community. Obviously this takes significant time and money and will only increase as we continue to expand.  After thoughtful consideration, we moved into the product space, and have found this equally fulfilling to create novel and exciting products for our community.  We appreciate those who have supported W.O.E.-- as this support will give us the opportunity for increased quality content.  Over the coming year, we hope to expand the number of articles per week and potentially move into other mediums.  Regarding products, we are working on some new and exciting projects and hope to have some in stock at all points.  We are in the initial steps on a coffee table book that we hope to be available in 2024. This year, we have raised over $23,000 for Third Option Foundation and we have more fundraisers scheduled for this year that will be both meaningful and interesting. As always, thank you for the support.  This would not be possible without you. Read Next: Vietnam MACV-SOG Seikos: Setting The Record Straight *Unless otherwise noted, pictures are of W.O.E.'s personal collection by James Rupley.

One of the most common questions we receive from active duty military, law enforcement and intelligence officers is how to organize a “unit watch.”  We have previously profiled Tudor’s unit watch program and plan to cover all of the major players in this space.    UK-based Bremont Watch Company has made significant headway in capturing the market and providing unique watches to military and intelligence units, including the highest tiers of the US Intelligence, Aviation and Special Operations community. In order to document a first hand perspective, we asked Nic, an Australian military pilot, to write a Dispatch on his experience organizing a custom Bremont for his squadron. As always, this content is not sponsored and the views and perspectives are of the author.  At W.O.E., we are brand agnostic but do support any brand that supports our community. Aviation Unit Watch Case Study: Bremont Military and Special Projects Division The EA-18G Bremont U-2 on the wrist of a Growler pilot (Photo Credit: @outboundcourse)  In the world of horology, Bremont is a relative newcomer, having been founded by brothers Nick and Giles English in 2002. The siblings, inspired by their father’s passion for both aviation and mechanical devices, merged their interests to design, manufacture and release their first pilot's watch in 2007. Bremont arrived on the scene as a fresh contender at a time when established players were coincidently shifting their focus away from the aviation and military markets towards more mainstream celebrity brand ambassadors. In 2009, U-2 spy plane pilots from Beale Air Force Base, California contacted Bremont to see if the brand would be willing to create a bespoke watch for their squadron. Bremont subsequently produced and delivered the watch as its first ever military project in 2010. The following year, they launched a partnership with ejection seat manufacturer Martin Baker and started to garner interest from the global military aviation community. Bremont was then approached by the US Navy Test Pilot School, USAF C-17 Globemaster community and US Navy VFA-81 Sunliners Squadron and asked to produce special military watches for their members. The Military and Special Projects Bremont made for U-2 spy plane pilots was the brand’s first custom military watch. (Photo credit: @bremontmilitary) Once the custom C-17 watch appeared on social media in 2012, the brand received significantly more attention from potential military clients. To cater for this increase in queries and requests for projects, Bremont’s Military and Special Project Division was established by Catherine Villeneuve. Over ten years later, Catherine – who is also Nick English’s wife – leads a sizable and dedicated team as Bremont’s Head of Military and Special Projects. The C-17A Bremont ALT1-WT (Photo credit: @bremontmilitary) I first heard about Bremont from a friend who had run his own project and so got in touch with the brand’s Military and Special Projects team in 2016 to enquire about developing a watch for my Australian squadron of KC-30A air-to-air refueling aircraft. Once I’d established contact the process was straight forward. Due to the expeditionary nature of our work, I chose the Bremont World Timer as a base model and then started the back-and-forth with the Bremont design team to determine how to make the project unique and meaningful to those of us who would eventually wear it. This mainly consisted of me sending poorly constructed Microsoft Paint pictures of airplanes and crests pasted onto watches and them responding with high quality renderings of potential design options. As the military traditionally offers limited opportunities for creative expression within its ranks, I really enjoyed the opportunity to play designer with the guidance from Bremont’s professionals. Catherine explains that “The design focus is to base the client’s idea around an existing model, staying true to our brand DNA and then elegantly and subtly integrating design details within the watch dial and sometimes other watch parts, to best identify the military squadron, unit or community”. The “triple seven," an Afghan unit trained/mentored by Americans for air lift assets, most notably the Russian built Mi-17.  This watch was produced by Bremont for the American servicemen supporting that unit. Bremont distinguishes itself from many competitors’ military offerings by allowing extensive customisation options. Beyond simply featuring aircraft silhouettes on the dial or unit crests on the case back, clients can opt for a variety of modifications, depending on the size of their order. For example, the C-130J Hercules project features a small seconds hand shaped like the aircraft’s six-blade propellers; the F-14 Tomcat project has hands coloured to match the jet’s tailhook; and the movement rotors of the A-10C project are carved into the shape of the Hawg’s iconic 30mm autocannon. For our project we were able to use a GMT hand coloured to match our refueling boom and a bespoke time zone bezel that showed the ICAO codes of our frequently visited airports and air bases. The C-130J Bremont ALT1-Z (Photo credit: @bremontmilitary) There are still some design rules to adhere to – Catherine notes “We have detailed documents regarding specific Terms and Conditions when it comes to designing and purchasing a Bremont Military and Special Project watch”. However, IYKYK acronyms sometimes appear on project dials that may skirt some of the restrictions (see: USAF KC-135’s “NKAWTG”, F-16CJ Super Weasel’s “YGBSM” and RAAF 75SQN’s “YKYMF”). Custom Bremont MBIIIs for F-16CJ Super Weasels and RAAF 75SQN (Photo credit @bremontmilitary) Once our design was finalized and eligibility criteria set, it was time for me to collect orders from my colleagues to meet the minimum number requirements. The amount of emotional energy invested during the design phase made this portion of the process particularly stressful. For many at military units, this is their first foray into the world of luxury mechanical watches so justifying the price tag can be a difficult feat but to help with this, Bremont offers significant discounts to it’s military customers. Once the minimum numbers were met and deposits paid, production began with the final product being delivered about nine months later. While the completion of production and delivery marks the end of the journey for most customers, a significant number of us choose to maintain a connection with the brand by engaging through social media, sharing photos of watches in action (use your tools!) or by dropping into local boutiques to share a story and enjoy a drink. It’s also worth noting the project leader can decide whether the project is a limited run or not. Even years after the first batch of deliveries, latecomers such as new squadron members or people who didn’t have the funds at the time can still get on board as Bremont maintains contact with the original project leader to ensure accurate verification of eligibility. Bremont's Military and Special Projects Division has become a pillar of the brand's success, accounting for almost 20% of its total sales. Interestingly, design ideas incubated by military projects can also overflow to Bremont’s core range. For example, the ALT1-WT was inspired by the C-17 Globemaster watch, the ALT-1B from a B-2 bomber project and the U-22 from an F-22 Raptor project. The purple, bronze and titanium-colored barrels across the MB range were all first featured on military projects. The F-22 Bremont U-22. The exposed date wheel was first for the brand and went on to inform the design of the civilian U-22 model. (Photo credit @bremontmilitary) The Bremont Military Instagram account showcases a myriad of professional and user-submitted photos, providing a glimpse into the vast number of individual projects the Military and Special Projects Division have produced with many more discreet projects remaining unseen by the public and unspoken about by the brand. When asked which projects were her personal favorites, Catherine responded “There are so many I could mention. Over the last 13 years Bremont has created and delivered almost 500 different military and special projects. Some of them are incredibly exciting but sadly the details of many projects cannot be shared. Design-wise, I would say the F-35 collection (F-35A, F-35B, F-35C and F-35 Dambuster) is very cool, the RAF Lancaster Bomber, HSM-85 Squadron, 89th Airlift, Grim Reapers 493rd Fighter Squadron, RSAF Tornado, the Royal Marine 350th, the new Royal Navy Submariners and of course the Australian KC-30A are personal favorites.” The KC-30A Bremont ALT1-WT on the beaches of Diego Garcia (Photo credit @bremontmilitary) Although military projects account for about 80% of the timepieces produced by the Military and Special Projects Division, watches are also made for civilian organizations. These clients have included BAE Systems, Oxbridge alumni, Rapha, FedEx pilots, Aston Martin Owners’ Club, Heathrow Air Traffic Controllers, REORG veterans’ charity, as well as rugby and cricket clubs. Moving forward, we can expect to see (or maybe only hear rumors of) many more bespoke Bremont Military and Special Projects watches that not only tell the time, but also tell the stories of the elite units, squadrons, ships and regiments that they have been created for.  READ NEXT: Marathon, Watch Maker For The Modern Military Author: Nic is an Australian military pilot that has been a follower of W.O.E. since the early days. He has a particular interest in custom military watch projects having designed and produced timepieces with multiple brands

Mercenaries, Arms Dealers, CIA Contractors, and Navy SEALs – a timepiece can complement a fictional character. Watches play a significant role in film. An accurate depiction of a character often includes a watch they might actually wear, and this is especially true in the military, intelligence and espionage genre. When this happens, it lends a sense of credibility to the work.  This is likely a mixture of art imitating life and vice versa.  Believe it or not, we know plenty of real “spies” and “operators” whose watch choices were influenced by movies.  The Bond Omega and Bond Rolex are obvious ones. But other watches are also featured on the silver screen, and we’ll explore them here. (Photo Credit James Rupley) In Hollywood, watch decisions range from paid product placement (as seen with the Bond Omega) to actors' personal watches worn on set and prop masters making specific choices for what they deem is best for that character.  It’s a small detail, but as enthusiasm around horology grows, and viewers develop a more nuanced understanding of the details that make up a character for the growing number of watch enthusiasts, the watch becomes an element that says a lot about a character.  In this piece, we’ll take a look at several examples of W.O.E. in Hollywood and provide our thoughts on the watch choices for a given character.  Blood Diamond- Breitling Chrono Avenger: In Blood Diamond, Danny Archer, a Rhodesian smuggler and ex-mercenary, embarks on a hair-raising adventure to find a large diamond in the midst of the Sierra Leone Civil War. Leonardo DiCarprio's character wears a Breitling Chrono Avenger, with a black dial and solid titanium 44mm case on a brown calf leather strap.  Overall, this watch nails it.  We all know that sketchy dudes wear Breitling and a Rhodesian mercenary turned diamond smuggler is the very definition of sketchy.  The movie takes place in 1999, when Breitling was at the height of its sketchiness and was a go-to tool for gray area operators. Both former CEO of Blackwater Eric Prince and former British SAS turned African mercenary Simon Mann wore Breitling Emergencies.   Breitling has developed an almost cult-like following in the national security community. With strong roots in aviation, Breitling is a signal that one is adventurous but also appreciates fine craftsmanship in utilitarian tools. Breitling has cultivated this narrative through marketing and product development of unique tools for adventurers, particularly in the military and aviation space.  13 Hours: The Secret Soldiers of Benghazi - Rolex Submariner In 13 Hours, Ty "Rone" Woods, a CIA Global Response Staff contractor played by James Badge Dale, wore a six digit Rolex Submariner while defending the State Department facility and the CIA annex in Benghazi, Libya.  As a former SEAL turned GRS contractor, this choice makes sense given the Naval Special Warfare (NSW) community's long standing relationship with Rolex and Tudor.  As we have documented in the past, it is common for SEALs to commemorate a deployment or BUD/S graduation with a Rolex Submariner. In fact, according to research by Rolex Magazine, the real Tyrone had at least two watches: a Rolex Sea-Dweller reference 16660 and a Panerai Luminor Marina, which is also common in the Teams. As documented by Rolex Magazine, "On January 1st, 2010, late on a Friday night, he registered an account with RolexForums.com under the username sdfrog177. He wrote a post mentioning the sale of his Panerai Luminor Marina 44mm and a Rolex Sea-Dweller triple 6 model (1983-1984 model). Thanks, T.W., he signed at the bottom.” According to a declassified CIA document, “On the morning of September 12, the CIA Base was subjected to repeated mortar fire . . . Defending the Base from the rooftop, they died when a mortar round landed near them. Tyrone Woods loved his life, his family, and his country. All who knew him remember that he was a joy to be around and he always made people feel better. Tyrone was 41 years old.” Lord of War -  Platinum Rolex President Day-Date: Lord of War is a 2005 (mostly) fictional Hollywood account of the life of Viktor Bout, aka the "Merchant of Death," a notorious Russian arms dealer who took advantage of the fall of the Soviet Union to sell off the massive arms left over at significant profit. Yuri Orlov, played by Nicolas Cage, wears a platinum Rolex President Day-Date, overall a fitting timepiece for this uber-wealthy and charismatic character. Cage, an avid watch collector himself, has an impressive collection; it is possible this is a personal watch.  The real Merchant of Death, Viktor Bout, was arrested in a sting operation led by the US Drug Enforcement Administration (DEA) in Bangkok in 2008.  During his arrest, Bout was wearing a Breitling B-1, a watch that he was able to wear while in detention for at least a month.  Another sketchy dude wearing a Breitling . . . in the business, we call this a pattern.  Terminal List - Oris, RESCO Instruments, IWC, Ares and more: (Photo Credit: Justin Lubin) Watches play a central role in former SEAL-turned-writer Jack Carr’s Terminal List book series.  Central to the story of James Reece is a legacy Rolex Submariner, purchased by his father, Thomas Reece, during an R&R in Saigon during his first tour in Vietnam with SEAL Team Two. The elder Reece went on to wear this Sub while serving as a CIA Case Officer overseas (sound familiar?). So it is no surprise that the Amazon series adaptation contains several accurate and well-placed watches for the lead (James Reece) and supporting characters.  We are told that these choices were organic and not product placements, which makes it even cooler.  (Photo Credit: Justin Lubin) James Reece, played by Chris Pratt, wears several watches throughout the series, including an Oris Aquis Pro Date Calibre 400, Resco Instruments BlackFrog Gen2 Black PVD (an insider told us he wanted to wear a military watch in specific scenes), a G-Shock GA-100-1A1 and a period correct 5.11 Military Tactical Field Ops Watch.  Carr even makes a cameo in the film wearing an Ares Diver, who the founder of was former CIA. (Photo Credit: Justin Lubin) Overall, it is a well done series with great “watch spotting,” including several Oris, Digital Tool Watches (DTWs) and even an IWC Big Pilot IW500901 worn by Steve Horn (the villain- Jai Courtney).  Both Pratt and Carr are watch guys and it's cool to see these pieces featured, another subtle and accurate nod to our community. It’s always a joy when someone gets it right.  Magnum PI - Rolex Pepsi GMT-Master 16750: We have previously said that the Rolex GMT, any reference, is the ultimate CIA Case Officer’s watch– a classy and refined tool that signals to others you are a man of culture, yet don’t mind getting your hands dirty. The ideal Case Officer has been described as a “Ph.D. that can win a bar fight,” and this idiom covers Thomas Magnum well. (Photo Credit James Rupley) Magnum was a former SEAL, Naval Intelligence Officer and Vietnam War veteran. He’s the ultimate cool guy from the 80s and the Pepsi GMT is the perfect watch for him.  During an interview with Frank Rousseau, Selleck said of the watch: "I’ve always loved that watch. It was the perfect match for Magnum. It’s a watch that likes action, and believe me I know what I’m talking about. I’ve had my fair share of “sport” watches but never one as tough as the Rolex. It’s been underwater, buried in sand, taken I don’t know how many knocks, and never a problem. It’s called the Pepsi because the bezel colors are the same as the Pepsi logo. Personally, I thought the red went well with the Ferrari and the blue matched Hawaii’s lagoons and sky. " You might think you’re cool, and you might actually be cool, but you will never be Tom Selleck sporting a legendary mustache in a red Ferrari wearing a vintage Rolex GMT Pepsi cool. READ NEXT: Prince Harry The Military Watch Enthusiast This article has been reviewed by the CIA's Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

Release date/time: 1100 EST, Tuesday 25 July ORDER HERE We are happy to announce the release of a special edition watch pouch and challenge coin in partnership with GBRS Group.  The pouch is constructed with repurposed issued AOR-1 camouflage uniforms worn by GBRS co-founders and former Navy SEALs Cole Fackler and DJ Shipley.  Each order includes a W.O.E.-GBRS challenge coin.  $40 of every purchase will be donated directly to Third Option Foundation, a nonprofit organization supporting the CIA’s paramilitary officers of the Special Activities Center (SAC).  We expect to raise over $20,000 and will provide proof of the donation once the fundraiser is complete. Cole and DJ with donated uniforms, Panerais on the wrist. Overview:  This release is an updated version of one of our best selling products, the W.O.E. Travel Pouch and challenge coin.  Made in the USA, the single watch case is durable, compact and functional, and honors our community with subtle accents. Like a great watch, the case is a tool, made to be used and to last decades. The GBRS AOR-1 case has an updated card with red trim and the GBRS Old-English “g” is on one side of the watch card and the back of the watch case. AOR-1:  The case flap keeper is constructed with repurposed issued AOR-1 camouflage uniforms worn by Cole and DJ.  AOR-1 was introduced in 2010 for Navy Special Operations and was developed for desert/arid environments.  The pattern has been used widely throughout the Middle East and Africa. DJ wearing AOR-1 camouflage during free fall training. GBRS Group:  GBRS Group is a veteran-owned, Tier 1 training and services organization committed to imparting critical skills and real-world experiences to end-users in military, federal, state and local special operations units.  GBRS Group was founded by Cole Fackler and DJ Shipley, two former Navy SEALs who served in NSW Development Group, the Navy’s Tier 1 Special Mission Unit. Cole deployed overseas with NSW. As previously discussed in the Dispatch, Naval Special Warfare (NSW) has a long history with timepieces.  Since the early 1960’s, frogmen have utilized tool watches including Tudor, Seiko, G-Shock and various other dive watches.  Today, NSW continues this tradition with a strong culture of high end tool watches, including Panerai, Rolex, Tudor, Bremont and various other timepieces. Third Option Foundation:  The name refers to the motto of CIA's Special Activities Center: Tertia Optio, the President’s third option when military force is inappropriate and diplomacy is inadequate. Third Option Foundation is dedicated to providing comprehensive family resiliency programs, working behind the scenes to quietly help those who quietly serve. “You will probably never know the names of these silent heroes who defend our safety and freedoms in the most distant corners of the world. They’re often the first in and the last to leave many conflicts around the globe. For decades, the operators of CIA's Special Operations units have served and sacrificed in quiet anonymity.  Particularly in the years since 9/11, this small group, along with their families, has borne an unprecedented burden in the fight to protect our nation. The nature of their service means they and their loved ones cannot seek the support or relief available to military service members and their families. Third Option Foundation is the only organization that fills this gap, by providing crucial survivorship assistance and resiliency programs to heal the wounded, help the families of those we have lost, and support those who are still serving. “I was the commander of a unit that, within the span of about 18 months, sustained a number of casualties of operators killed in action overseas. There were more than a dozen children who were suddenly without fathers, and wives who had lost their husbands. As we were flying across the country notifying the families, we saw just how significant the need was for those family members for a safety net, for support and understanding. We decided to create an organization to address the really unique needs of our agency’s Special Operations community that weren’t being met. — Anonymous, Co-Founder of Third Option Foundation” At W.O.E., we are passionate about serving those who serve us and this is at the core of who we are as a business and community. We believe that doing good is good business and it would be hypocritical of us to not give back to our community. We will continue to be transparent about our support. Release date/time: 1100 EST, Tuesday 25 July ORDER HERE *Photos by James Rupley and GBRS. **W.O.E. has no affiliation with Third Option Foundation and this fundraiser is not officially endorsed by Third Option Foundation.   THIRD OPTION FOUNDATION IS A 501(C)(3) TAX-EXEMPT NATIONAL NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATION.

Saudi astronaut Ali Alqarni peered out the window of the International Space Station (ISS). The bright blue glow of the earth’s atmosphere roughly 250 miles below him filled his vista.  He slid his Rolex “Pepsi” GMT-Master II off his wrist and let it go, the watch drifting, weightless, right in front of the window. In a rare moment of serenity, Alqarni snapped a picture of the watch.  When I first came across the picture on @niccoloy’s Instagram page, I ignorantly assumed “Prince Ali '' was a wealthy Saudi, on a “mission” to the ISS.  As it turns out, Captain Alqarni was not a billionaire space tourist, but instead a professional aviator–a Captain in the Royal Saudi Air Force having logged over 2,000 hours of flight time and multiple combat deployments on the F-15.  While the Rolex GMT-Master II looked like any old Rolex, it was so much more– it was a symbol of Alqarni’s achievements, a commemorative watch purchased after his wedding and a complement to the Breitling B-1 he had worn since graduating flight school. It also pulled double duty as a true tool in the cockpit, the most fitting application of the watch considering its jet-age history.  We spoke with Alqarni, a follower of W.O.E., and found in him a passion for service to his country, and a sense of conviction that watches are meant as tools as well as extensions of our identity and symbols of our accomplishments. Like many space voyages before Axiom Mission 2, Alqarni’s trip was just as much cultural and political as it was scientific.  The Saudi Space Commission launched in 2017 as a part of Vision 2030, and Alqarni and Rayyanah Barnawi were the second and third, respectively, Saudis to reach space under the Saudi Space Commission. Barnawi, the first Saudi woman in space, is a stem cell researcher with a complementary skill set to Alqarni’s.  Barnawi wore a yellow “Mission to the Sun” Moonswatch on the ISS.   The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (KSA) hoped the mission would inspire the next generation of Saudi Arabian citizens to focus on science, technology, engineering, and mathematics (STEM).    Alqarni’s commemorative Omega Speedmaster, also worn on the trip. Watches of Spaceflight (W.O.S.)? When it comes to “Watches of Astronauts” (W.O.A.?), we immediately think of the Omega Speedmaster, a watch with strong ties to space exploration and that most notably played an important role during Apollo 13.  But a plethora of other brands have exited earth's atmosphere, including a previous Rolex GMT worn on the wrist Dr. Edgar Mitchell during the Apollo missions. The Rolex GMT-Master was a logical watch given the robust movement and GMT function, and legendary US Air Force officer Chuck Yeager’s watch of choice is still prized by aviators to this day.   As with Intelligence and Special Operations, watches have a strong historical tie to space exploration, initially due to the functional aspect of a watch, but at present, their cultural significance is equally as strong.  That said, Alqarni noted that most modern astronauts relied on Digital Tool Watches (DTWs), proving more functional than mechanical watches. Fighter Pilot Turned Astronaut: Though Alqarni was passionate about watches from an early age, his real exposure to military watch culture originated during his flight training in the United States in 2011.  His US Air Force officer mentor wore a Breitling F-15 Airwolf "Eagle Driver" with his call sign engraved on the caseback.  The mentor explained the significance of squadron commissioned watches and as a result, Alqarni was hooked.  From humble roots and fresh off a scholarship from King Faisal Air Academy, Alqarni wasn’t in a position to buy a brand new watch, so he settled on a pre-owned Breitling B-1 to commemorate his graduation. As a part of the Undergraduate Pilot Training (UPT), Alqarni visited the  Space Center Houston and met a former F-16 pilot-turned-astronaut.  This planted the seed that eventually led Alqarni to a career as an astronaut, but with no Saudi space program at the time, future space travel seemed unlikely.  Alqarni also received his call-sign: “Prince Ali”, based on the playful assumption from US Airmen that Alqarni must be related to the Royal family, the type of culturally insensitive, but well-intentioned humor common in our community.   Over the next decade, Alqarni wore the Breitling B-1 throughout his training and combat deployments.  For the same reasons my personal Breitling Aerospace was ideal for clandestine operations around the globe, Alqarni’s B-1 was a practical tool watch for an F-15 pilot.  The digital screens and various functions allowed him to time flights and track multiple time zones.  It was a tool, but also a symbol of his accomplishments, his passion for flying and the significance of time in the world of aeronautics.  During our conversation, he proudly explained his devotion to aviation and said the tool was a symbol of that love.  He was proud of every scratch on it. The Rolex: In 2018, in preparation for his wedding day Alqarni walked into an Authorized Dealer in Jeddah and put his name on the list for the Rolex GMT-Master II on a Jubilee bracelet.  It was a logical choice for a professional pilot, the Pepsi GMT has strong roots in aviation.  For confirmation that “Prince Ali” is not a real Prince, look no further than the year he had to wait for his Rolex. Like the rest of us commoners, he had to wait a year until he received “the call” two months after his wedding.  Regardless of the wait, the watch immediately became a favorite and adorned his wrist on training missions and deployments.  The Rolex catapulted him down the watch rabbit hole, and his collection only grew over the years. Space Trip: In 2020, the Saudi Space Commission sent out the request for volunteers to travel on Axiom Mission 2, originally scheduled for early 2023.  The six month selection process whittled 200 applicants down to Alqarni and Rayyanah Barnawi.  It was a commercial spaceflight led by veteran NASA astronaut Peggy Whitson.  As with previous spaceflights, the mission was a symbol of national pride and intended to signal that KSA was focused on the future.  The inclusion of a female member of the team was a clear message that KSA was focused on modernization.  Only in 2017 were women allowed to drive after a decree from King Salman. Alqrani’s personal effects and equipment were sent to the space station in advance, which included the Rolex GMT.  The GMT is noticeably absent from his wrist in pictures of Alqarani training for the mission.  Each spaceflight member was provided a custom Omega Speedmaster Professional.  The astronauts’ names and the team’s patch–a dragon capsule flanked with the Saudi and US flags–were engraved on the caseback. A patch honoring the mission’s focus on inspiration, education and teaching, symbolized by the five S.T.E.A.M symbols. Science represented by a DNA strand, Technology represented by a set of connected circles, Engineering represented by a cog, Arts represented by a brush, and Math represented by the Pi symbol.  The Mission: When Alqarni arrived at the ISS, he was provided access to his personal effects and equipment needed for scientific experiments in the zero gravity environment.  Alqarni nervously unwrapped the watch that he had not seen for six months, reflecting, “I was worried that the watch was not going to work.”  It was an emotional and symbolic moment: Both the watch and Alqarni had made it against all odds. And both were right on time. For Alqarni, the watch ticking embodied all that it took to get to the ISS and the sacrifice and triumph of the Saudi people. Quickly realizing that the jubilee bracelet was loose, a result of weight loss during training, Alqarni wound the watch and set the primary time to Zulu Time (Coordinated Universal Time), the time used by the ISS, and the secondary hand to Saudi Arabia (Zulu + 3).  Throughout the journey, Alqarni manipulated the bezel to quickly check the time for Tokyo, etc. as he traveled through space.    Zero Gravity: Alqarni explained that the self-winding automatic watch worked well in zero gravity conditions, the wrist movement and inertia was enough to move the pendulum.  Alqarni did not have to wind the watch again. After 10 days in space, the team splashed down in the Gulf of Mexico on 30 May.  As Barnawi, the first Saudi woman to space, would say, “Every story comes to an end and this is only the beginning of a new era for our country and our region.”   To commemorate the trip to space and build on the history of the Rolex GMT, Alqarni planned to engrave the caseback with the dates of the voyage as well as a note summarizing his accomplishments to date.  Alqarni currently has one daughter and has aspirations to grow his family. He hopes to give the watch to his children in the future. Who knows, they might even take it back to space one day.  Read Next: The Lasting Legacy Of The CIA’s Lockheed A-12 And The Watch That Served It

79 years ago the most important Allied coordinated effort of WWII took place. These watches kept soldiers on time.  On Tuesday June 6th, 1944 the largest seaborne invasion in history occurred. Nearly 160,000 allied troops managed to change the course of WWII by storming the beaches of Normandy and setting off the liberation of France from the Nazis, and later, a victory. The invasion began at 6:30am, when soldiers started storming five beaches–Omaha, Utah, Gold, Sword, Juno. Approximately 11,000 aircraft and 7,000 watercraft supported the invasion. Shortly before the landing, under the cover of darkness, Paratroopers, including commandos from the Office of Strategic Services (OSS), were inserted into strategic spots inland in order to weaken the German defense network and provide a strategic advantage to the soldiers arriving by amphibious craft.  Operation Overlord, June 6, 1944 Today marks the 79th anniversary of the day this incredible effort took place. Roughly 73,000 Allied soldiers were lost over the course of the invasion.  “D-Day” as its known, typically refers to these Normandy landings, but in the larger military context, it refers to the exact time a combat action takes place. D-Day and H-Hour refer to the day an hour a coordinated effort is initiated. “D-Day”, in the case of the Normandy Invasion, was actually set for June 5th, but General Eisenhower made the choice to delay the attack due to rough seas and inclement weather.  General Eisenhower reportedly wore a Heuer Chronograph, as identified by @niccoloy (Government Archives)  In war, time matters. A massive concerted effort between Allied nations meant every single soldier had to be on time and operating in unison. The tool that helped orchestrate an invasion that shifted the outcome of the war? The humble wristwatch. In the 1940s, watches were hardly considered as the luxury accessories they are today. Soldiers wore watches that were issued to them as a part of the set of tools needed to do a very important job.  Photo Credit: Vertex Watches  History buffs, WWII enthusiasts, and even re-enactors pay incredible attention to details surrounding WWII, but somehow one of the most important pieces of kit–the watch–is often overlooked. At W.O.E. we care about nothing but details, so today, on the anniversary of D-Day, we’ll take a look at some of the watches that were on the wrists of soldiers, sailors, and airmen that were involved in the invasion.  The A-11 (produced by Bulova, Elgin, Waltham and others) Personal collection of former CIA Officer and W.O.E. contributor, J.R. Seeger. Commonly referred to as “the watch that won the war”, the A-11 was the most ubiquitous service watch during WWII. It’s a specification, rather than an actual watch, and that meant that various companies could produce watches to this spec and in turn, the government would purchase these watches and distribute them to service personnel. For its time, the specification set was exacting, the watch needed a black dial with white numerical indices, a manual-winding, hacking movement with center seconds, 10 minute markers, an hour and minute hand. The case came in at a compact 32 millimeters. The watches saw service with the Brits as well as the Americans.  The Army Ordnance Watch Army Time Piece (ATP) watch of the UK forces and the US Army Ordnance (ORD) on original OSS manual (Seeger’s personal collection) While the A-11 was rated for aviation operations (and specific maritime operations), the “ORD” watches were general-purpose watches issued to US soldiers en masse. The specification outlined in the TM 9-1575 War Department Technical Manual for Wrist Watches, Pocket Watches, Stop Watches allows for some variation in design, so Waltham, Hamilton, Bulova and Elgin all put their own twist on these watches meant to be mass produced for soldiers. These watches are distinguished by their white dials and “Ord Dept” engravings on the caseback.  The “Dirty Dozen” MoD Watches The Dirty Dozen - all twelve W.W.W. watches (Credit: A Collected Man) Most popular among collectors is a series of 12 watches produced by the likes of Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor, and Vertex. On all of these British-issued watches you’ll find W.W.W. (Watch, Wrist, Waterproof) and a broadarrow insignia engraved in the back. It’s unknown how many of each were produced because it’s believed that only WC, JLC, and Omega recorded their production at 6,000, 10,000,  and 25,000 respectively. The Dirty Dozen were general service watches, and that meant they saw service with various service roles across all functions of the military. While these pieces were not delivered until after D-Day at the conclusion of the war, they are a product of this conflict. IWC Dirty Dozen piece with original box (Credit: A Collected Man) We tend to romanticize the equipment used by service members carrying out brave efforts that changed the course of world history. Watches are certainly among the kind of things we tend to prescribe a certain importance to–and that’s not to be ignored, timekeeping is absolutely vital especially when it comes to a massive coordination such as Operation Overlord. But watches only supported the mission as a piece of gear with an assigned function. They were, and always will be, tools to get the job done. Today we honor and remember the valiant efforts of Allied service members 79 years ago to this day, and the actions taken by them that resulted in a free world that flourishes.  Read Next: CIA’s JAWBREAKER Team And A Rolex Submariner  

One of the coolest parts of the W.O.E. platform is exposing people to the world of watches in an unpretentious and engaging manner.  Getting into watches can be intimidating and it is difficult to know where to start. Regardless of one's socioeconomic status and access to disposable income, we recommend starting with a watch under-$1,000.  Just because you can afford a Rolex, doesn't mean you should start there.   In the “Ask W.O.E. Anything” Dispatch, I put forward my belief that a Seiko is a good place to start, and maybe end with watch collecting.  That said, there are some great watches under $1,000 and there is no right answer to this question.  In order to capture a broad collection of suitable watches, we asked a handful of our friends from both the traditional watch and NatSec communities to provide their choice for the “Best Watch Under $1,000.” This is an incredibly diverse list of individuals from former Special Operations warriors, Intelligence Officers, and divers, to some of the leading experts in the watch community.  The one thing they all have in common is a shared appreciation for watches.  While all of them have objectively more “expensive” watches in their collection, they have a genuine appreciation for these more affordable timepieces. CWC Royal Navy Jason Heaton, author, freelance writer, and podcast host, The Grey NATO and author of Depth Charge. I’ve long contended that the CWC Royal Navy dive watch is the watch a “real” James Bond would wear, at least the 21st-century iteration of MI6’s famous “blunt instrument” spy. Issued since the 1980s to British Navy divers and Special Forces operators, it is a tough, classic, unassuming watch that can truly go anywhere and manages the balance between looking good and not drawing attention to itself. The quartz version (Approx. $930), with its 300 meters of water resistance, long-life battery, and fixed strap bars means its owner can go forth in the world on adventures, clandestine or otherwise, without having to worry about his watch. And that’s the highest of compliments, in my mind.  Seiko Prospex SNJ025 aka The 'Arnie' Chris Craighead, former British Special Air Service (SAS), @christian_craighead The Seiko Prospex ($525) has a unique and rich history. Not only was it worn by Arnold Schwarzenegger in movies such as Commando, Predator, and Raw Deal, it was also one of the first watches issued to an East Coast-based Naval Special Warfare (NSW) unit. The watch is extremely tough and practical. The dual, analog and digital face makes it a versatile watch for whatever purpose you choose to wear it. Tornek-Rayville TR-660  Brock Stevens, Active Duty US Navy Diver, EDC enthusiast, and photographer behind @deepsea_edc.  The Tornek-Rayville TR-660 ($950) is a no-frills, straight-to-the-point tool watch. As an active duty US Navy Diver who believes in wearing watches for their intended purposes, I love that about it. With a robust movement, 200 meters of water resistance, a legible dial, and lightning bright lume, I count on this watch to get the job done during my working dives. I have beat the living hell out of this thing, banging it around on just about every type of warship the US Navy has to offer, and it just keeps on ticking. Any watch can sit in the collection and look pretty, but if you’re after ultimate function and genuine military heritage at a reasonable price point, look no further. Rowing Blazers X Seiko 5 Sports Watch (Limited Edition 2023)  Eric Wind, leading expert in vintage watches. Eric founded and owns Wind Vintage  The Seiko 5 Sports line offers some of the best accessible mechanical watches on the market. Having had a bunch over the last few years, they are solid, reliable, and attractive - a winning combination. I really like the model we have used for our latest Rowing Blazers x Seiko watches ($495) as it is 40mm, but wears slightly smaller and looks great on men or women. They are hard to argue with for under $500 and are great for travel, the pool, and whatever else you might need. Sangin Instruments “Neptune” James Rupley, Co-founder of small arms reference publishing industry leaders, Vickers Guide and Headstamp Publishing. Regular photographic contributor to W.O.E. I subscribe fully to the “buy cheap, buy twice” maxim, so buying an inexpensive watch can actually be a riskier proposition than buying a much more expensive watch. Is there a $200 watch that you can be happy with forever? It’s a fascinating question, and you can easily blow a day on YouTube watching others try to answer it.  As someone who spends so much time photographing collectibles, aesthetic merit is always going to be a dominant factor in just about anything I focus on. I think the Sangin Instruments “Neptune” ($859) is an excellent example of a watch that skillfully blends functional elements with an attractive design. I love that the Neptune comes with both a metal bracelet and a rubber strap – options that offer me plenty of variety for use in any situation. Timex Marlin Automatic Marty Skovlund, Jr., Former Army guy, avid coffee drinker, aspiring sketchy dude, current Editor-in-chief of Task & Purpose I love a classy watch that is comfortable on the wrist but doesn’t draw attention or accusations of elitism. Timex is the opposite of elite in the watch world, and they make a helluva wrist piece that you aren’t afraid of wearing as a daily driver. And frankly, I wore a digital Timex Ironman on many deployments in a past life, so a non-digital, automatic Timex with a day and date complication feels like a natural evolution. I love mine, and it’s one of the most affordable automatics on the market. The Timex Marlin Automatic ($269) rocks a 40mm stainless steel case, a beautiful deep navy blue dial, and a classic domed acrylic crystal — it looks like a compromise between an ultra-rugged sport watch and a black tie dress watch. This isn’t a go-everywhere, do-anything piece with only 50m of water resistance and a crystal that’s easy to scuff; but it’s perfect for long days at the office or hitting all of Hemingway’s old drinking spots in Madrid in a single day. Pro tip: My Timex Marlin came with a leather strap too orange for my taste. I swapped it out for a W.O.E. Jedburgh Leather strap, and that dark brown leather complements the navy dial perfectly. Seiko Turtle Dave Hall, SOCS (SEAL), USN, Ret. Retired US Navy SEAL. Watch and firearms enthusiast. @davehall1911 The Seiko “Turtle” ($300-600), a nickname for the 6309-7040, could easily be described as the “AK-47 of the watch world”. It’s simple, rugged, affordable, reliable, and has stood the test of time with little necessary improvement. The watch is at home underwater, in freefall, or running an obstacle course. It’s accurate enough to keep track of your total time of dive, calculate M700 time fuse burns, or keep track of your dune run times. You don’t have to take it off to enter a SCIF (Sensitive Compartmented Information Facility) and it is as equally at home on a direct-action mission as it is at the hotel bar in Zangaro (“Dogs of War” cameo reference). The modern Turtle, known as the Prospex SRPE93, has all the same clean lines and durability from the original 6309 and keeps better time than ever. Tornek-Rayville Paradive  J.R. Seeger, retired Central Intelligence Agency (CIA) officer and author of seven MIKE4 espionage novels and three Steampunk Raj novels set in WWI.  T-R is a US-based watch company that builds field and dive watches that have the DNA of 1960s and 1970s MIL-SPEC watches. The Paradive ( approx. $900) is a modern take on the vintage Benrus Type 1. It is a bead-blasted stainless steel, purpose-built automatic watch with excellent luminous markings and comes with either a standard dive bezel or a 12-hour bezel providing a means to track two time zones. The watch has a depth rating of 200m. It is the most robust dive watch I own. T-R is a small company and there is a wait time while they make your watch. It is well worth the wait. Marathon Navigator Steel SSNAV-D James Stacey, Lead Editor with Hodinkee.com and co-host of The Grey NATO podcast. If we’re talking about a great tool watch under a grand and you really want to use it, you can’t do much better than the new steel version of Marathon’s long-standing (and long-serving) Navigator ($800). Trading the common and gov’t issue-ready composite case for one in steel, this newly announced Marathon is still 41mm wide, 11mm thick, and sports a field-ready 12-hour bezel. Add to that a high-accuracy quartz movement, 100 meters of water resistance, and tritium tube illumination and you've got a worker. It’s a modernized take on a classic design that traces its lineage across some of the toughest locales that our world has (and had) to offer and it remains a watch that was primarily designed to be offered in contract to governments and special outfits all over the globe and the new steel version even has its own Nato Stock Number. If you want a go anywhere, do anything watch that remains subtle but tough enough for any sort of work, the Navigator is a natural in steel - just add your fav color NATO. I recommend grey. Sangin Dark Professional Asha Wagner, HazMat Team Manager for a National Disaster Response Task Force and watch and gear enthusiast. @wildlander6 My pick for a sub $1,000 watch is my Sangin Dark Professional ($658). This has been my go-to work, play and travel watch for the past few years. The reasons why I keep opting for this watch are it’s durable, versatile, and comfortable. I am a full-time Fire Captain and a HazMat Team Manager for a National Disaster Response Task Force and am also pretty active with a bunch of outdoorsy hobbies in my off time. I am rough on equipment and an impact-prone individual. I need a watch that can keep up with me and that I don’t have to worry about whether I’m scuba diving or breaching and forcing entry into a building. The Dark Pro has taken everything I’ve thrown at it and come up smiling. As far as versatility it is a 300-meter dive watch with a 24-hour GMT hand, drilled lug holes for easy strap changes, a fully indexed, unidirectional count-up bezel with bright long lasting lume, and a color-matched date wheel at 4:30. The date wheel is there when I need it, and all but disappears when I don’t. The crazy bright lume is great in inclement situations, plus lume just downright makes me happy. The case comes in at 43.5 mm, but with a 20mm lug width 12 mm thickness, and 42 mm bezel, it wears sleeker than its specs might initially suggest. It’s a watch that doesn’t draw a lot of undue attention depending on where I’m traveling, but at the same time makes me smile every time I look at it.  Mine is a co-branded watch with Triple Aught Design and comes in at $795.   Halios Seaforth IV Justin Couture, “The Wristorian” Freelance blogger fascinated by the historical context surrounding vintage tool watches. @the_wristorian Being a vintage guy at heart, I am ever on the lookout for a watch that combines old-school design language with modern capability. Enter the Halios Seaforth IV ($775), the newest iteration of what could now be called a horological cult classic. With Goldilocks dimensions and a clear focus on legibility, the Seaforth IV effortlessly exudes the sort of skindiver vibes that will make you want to inexplicably take up spearfishing. Factor in the brilliant Bahama Yellow dial and the titanium case option and you’ve got the apex predator of modern microbrand divers. Pro-tip for the WOE crowd, for added utilitarianism the Seaforth can be made into a destro configuration by request. Seiko SKX Nick Ferrell, Founder DC Vintage Watches Vintage Seiko is rich in history, and none more than the venerable Seiko SKX, worn on the wrist of many military and intelligence officers I've worked with - both previously employed with the government, and now as customers - the world over.  The SKX line has long been a "gateway drug" for watch collectors just starting down the slippery slope towards obsession, as it was for me.  One of my first Seiko's, I wore the 1999 Seiko SKX007 (on the right) throughout a two-year tour in the White House Situation Room, and it served me well.  And this is a two-for-one - a savvy hunter can find both the SKX and the steel-grey dial 1960s Seiko 7625-8233 dress watch, absurdly large for the era, in good nick for under $1k.  A fantastic two-watch collection, perhaps? Scurfa Diver One D1-500 Benjamin Lowry, Writer, US Coast Guard veteran, former commercial diver, and curator of @submersiblewrist.  With my background in commercial diving, I was always going to be a fan of Scurfa Watches, a brand owned and operated by Paul Scurfield, a North Sea commercial saturation diver. Beyond our occupational connection, the watches themselves represent class-leading value for the busy diving tool watch category, pairing impressive specifications with the legitimacy that comes with having been developed and tested in the owner’s salty workplace. The Diver One D1-500 is the brand’s centerpiece, offering 500 meters of water resistance, excellent lume, an automatic helium escape valve (which, in this very rare case, makes sense), a domed sapphire crystal, and a Swiss quartz caliber from Ronda, all housed within a surprisingly restrained 40mm wide by 47.7mm long case.  While I’m nowhere near as cool as Paul, I have worn the Diver One extensively in recreational and commercial diving scenarios, including at least one near-death experience. Priced around $200, which is insane, the Scurfa Diver One is a great way to live the #useyourtools ethos we subscribe to around here without breaking the bank.  Tornek-Rayville TR-660 Owner of Soturi, - Marine veteran-owned handmade watch straps inspired by military heritage.   When I came across the Tornek-Rayville TR-660 ($950) it instantly hooked me. As an avid enthusiast of military watches, the T-R’s slab-sided case, matte finish, and lighter weight are everything you want in a field/dive watch. Simple, yet significant. Add-on T-R’s intriguing history with U.S. Special Operations (the TR-900 model) and you have yourself a winning combination that’s hard to compete with. Bonus - its integrated lug/pin holes make for easy swapping of your favorite watch straps.  “Arabic Seiko'' W.O.E., former CIA Case Officer turned watch influencer The 42mm “Arabic Seiko'' ref SNKP21J1  (aka the Seik-W.O.E. aka the W.O.E. hype watch) is popular in the W.O.E. community.  In part this is because it is a cool and unique piece at an affordable price point and received consistent coverage on W.O.E., but just as importantly because of the meaning it has for our community.  Many of us have spent a considerable amount of time in the Middle East over the past 20+ years.  I have a strong affinity for the rich culture and language of the Arab world and this piece is a constant reminder of that connection and that period in my life.  A lot of veterans and NatSec identify with this connection. ($130-$200) READ NEXT: W.O.E. Holiday Gift Guide

So in light of these requests, we want to provide some insight into our typical EDC and what I carried as a CIA Case Officer (C/O) in Africa and the Middle East.

Keeping your watches and tools organized is important and having a central location in your house for your wallet, keys, watch and other tools is crucial.  So we designed our own W.O.E. Everyday Carry (EDC) Valet for at-home use or while on the move.  Each order includes a W.O.E. Surreptitious Beverage Entry Tool (S-BET), aka a challenge coin bottle opener.

This Dispatch is a counter argument to the previous Dispatch “James Bond Should Wear a Rolex” To those familiar with modern fiction, the inclusion of extreme detail for items such as the tools of the hero’s trade are incredibly common, but rarely to the extent found in Ian Fleming’s text written 70 years ago. Authors today rarely go the distance to ground their characters in the real world as much as Fleming, with the exception of a few, notably Jack Carr in his James Reece saga. Such level of detail has created passionate responses in readers to the choices made since Fleming’s first novel in 1953, and even today, we continue to discuss these issues at length. Bond's Galco Executive Shoulder Holster, Walther P99 Gen 1, and Omega Seamaster Professional 2531.80.00, which first appeared with an automatic movement in 1997's Tomorrow Never Dies. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/ @omegabondwatches) Today, I am thrilled to be writing in the Dispatch. My name is Caleb Daniels (@commandobond), and I am a lifelong fan of all things Bond, with a particular passion for his style and selection of daily carry items. While this certainly lends a focus to sartorial items, holsters, and handguns, it also includes one of the most important pieces of any discerning gentleman’s wardrobe – his timepiece. I’m grateful for the chance to share my viewpoint today in a playful response to the “Why Rolex” piece previously published. Here, we will first share the full story of Omega’s origins with James Bond, followed by a detailed analysis of the history of product placement in Bond, and the critical role it plays in keeping the franchise alive. While this piece does not serve as a direct response to the first Dispatch, it aims to present a more thorough history of Bond, offer a better understanding of why adjustments have been made, and propose a case for why we can celebrate Omega’s inclusion in 007’s history. The Omega Story I’d like to begin by first clearing the air and telling the true story of how Omega found its way into the Bond films. While today it is clearly one of the most powerful and important marketing relationships in cinema, it did not start that way. Pierce Brosnan and Omega (Photo Credit: Unknown) Rather, it is due to the actions of costume designer Lindy Hemming. Hemming’s journey with Bond began in GoldenEye (1995), and she was faced with a challenge that few had been faced with before. There was to be a new Bond actor (Pierce Brosnan), one that was coming on the heels of a commercial disaster (Dalton’s second and final outing Licence to Kill, which released inopportunely against Batman ’89 and suffered the consequences). This was also to be the first Bond film to be made post the fall of the Soviet Union. The relevance of Bond was in question, as was the prospect of GoldenEye. The space between Licence to Kill and GoldenEye was the longest gap between films to date, six years, and with the poor reception of the previous one, it seemed as if Bond’s journey on the silver screen may be at an end. This was certainly at the forefront of everyone’s mind during the production of GoldenEye, and yet it was in the face of these challenges that arguably one of the finest Bond films was created. Now, what exactly does this have to do with Omega? Like every other Bond actor’s first outing, the goal of the film was to reintroduce the character through the lens of that era. Think Live and Let Die (1973). Moore was introduced wielding a revolver (although he carries a PPK in the film, promo imagery and the finale leaned heavily on wheel guns), sipping bourbon (not vodka martinis) and smoking cigars (not cigarettes). Minor adjustments to the layperson, but significant shifts to the stalwart fan. This process, and the space between films inspired Hemming to take a step back from Rolex, as she explained in a New York Times article. “There hadn’t been a Bond for a few years and I was given the opportunity to rethink him,” she said. “I wanted him to be more modern and European.” With that motive in mind, she looked to those she knew for guidance, including friends of her father who were Naval men, and who preferred Omega. “They were gentlemen, good guys, ready for anything,” she said. “Omega was perfect for a Naval commander who dived and rescued people.” In Hemming’s words, Rolex was not the brand of the time for a man like Bond in 1995. “The Rolex watch had become rather flash,” Ms. Hemming said. “Rolex was part of a city boy culture. It didn’t seem appropriate for Bond at that moment.” What’s most important, however, is the fact that the original deal did not include product placement. Hemming herself reached out to Omega and was given a Quartz movement Seamaster 300M, reference number 2541.80.00. Bond's Galco Executive Shoulder Holster, Omega Seamaster Professional  2541.80.00 Quartz Movement, on a Hirsch Toronto and (non-explosive) Parker Jotter pen. (Photo Credit: Rupley/@Omegabonwatches) “There was no product placement incentive in 1995 whatsoever. I went to them, and of course they were interested. But it was no more than helping us. They gave us the watches for nothing.” (Photo Credit: Bond Franchise, Thunderballs) I find this to be an important detail in this story. While this relationship quickly expanded past a costume designer’s choice and into one of the most foundational product deals in cinema, like with Fleming, it came from a natural and organic place and does not deserve to be chastised on those grounds. Rather, like many of Fleming’s own choices, this was a selection that was made by personal preference to match the moment, and then later became a marketing engine to keep the film series alive. Fleming Lore & Product Placement (Photo Credit: Rupley) Fleming was a true pioneer. He sought in his writing to clearly ground Bond in the world around him, despite the incredible adventures he found himself part of. It’s this level of detail that still allows fans today to source and locate everything from the toiletries of Bond to his preferred alcohol brands (for example, just ask my friend James Rupley about his fruitless attempts to get a bottle of Old Grand-dad bourbon featured in the novel Live and Let Die), recipes for scrambled eggs, and in the case of this article, his timepieces. In this section, we will be pulling from Fleming’s own letters surrounding his time writing Bond, as found in the book The Man with the Golden Typewriter, Ian Fleming’s James Bond Letters. (Photo Credit: Rupley) Today, this level of detail, particularly in the vein of firearms and watches, is often met with skepticism, complaints, and even accusations of pay-offs for the inclusion of such pieces. Fleming, however, wrote long before product placement was the standard fare, and he set the stage for the cinematic Bond to take part in the very same level of intense detail. His unique passion was for verisimilitude, the creation of hyper-real worlds and adventures for his fictional hero. As Fleming himself said in a letter written in response to the director of the fragrance brand Floris, which had written him thanking him for their brief inclusion in the novel Moonraker, “My books are spattered with branded products of one sort or another, as I think it is stupid to invent bogus names for products which are household words, and you may be interested to know that this is the first time a name-firm has had the kindly thought of acknowledging the published tribute.” -Ian Fleming to Michael Bodenham, Esq., Director, Floris Ltd., 89 Jerymn Street, London, S.W.1. Floris is a brilliant example of a brand that found itself included due to its own use in Fleming’s personal life. His preferred fragrance, No. 89, is still available today and is a favorite of Bond fans throughout the world, again showing the staying power of even the smallest of association with 007. In fact, Floris has happily leaned into the Bond connection, even releasing a No. 007 scent for the 60th anniversary celebrations last year. (Photo Credit: Rupley/ @Omegabonwatches) (Photo Credit: Bond Franchise / Omega) From day one of film production, it seems that Fleming was being written by brands asking for placement deals in Doctor No. Fleming wrote producer Harry Saltzman about such things and an unspecified brand in 1961, and his letter seems to set some clear parameters for how he selected products, a template that has been followed well since. Fleming to Harry Saltzman December 7th, 1961: “My Dear Harry,I have acknowledged the attached but told them to get in direct touch with your Company.Incidentally, I expect you will be getting similar approaches from other branded products used by James Bond.I don’t know what your policy in the matter will be, but I have personally found that the use of branded names in my stories helps the verisimilitude, so long as the products are quality products.Admittedly one is giving free publicity to these people, but I don’t think it matters so long as the products are in fact really good.Anyway, over to you.” Again, while Fleming himself never was paid for an endorsement, he certainly understood the power of it in producing realism, and left the decision to the film producers for how to proceed. (Photo Credit: Rupley) While the films have been met with scrutiny as described above, product placement contracts have continued to provide fans with new silver screen adventures for ages. Tomorrow Never Dies reportedly covered 100% of its product budget with brand tie-ins in 1997, and 2012’s Skyfall had nearly a third of its budget covered by a deal with Heineken. The producers of Bond have attributed this level of detail to Fleming’s work as well. The reality is, we may not have the caliber of films with the incredible production quality and stunt work that we have today without these endorsements. “Fleming describes in great detail all the things that Bond uses, whether it comes down to a glass of wine, a meal he is eating, a car he is driving, or what suit he is wearing. That’s how Bond became synonymous with quality goods. That notion really started with the books. If you think you may not be alive tomorrow, you might as well have the best of everything.” – Barbara Broccoli Now, while Fleming wrote with a great deal of intricate detail surrounding Bond’s clothes, tools, cars, and more, it took him until On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, book number 11, to switch Bond to a Rolex. Fleming’s original choice, and defense of it over a Rolex, was described by Fleming in a letter to a fan in 1958 (five years before OHMSS was published). This letter was written in response to a fan’s request that Bond upgrade his timepiece to, seemingly based on Fleming’s response, a Rolex Oyster Perpetual. For those unfamiliar with Fleming, he often referred to himself as the biographer of Bond, and frequently wrote as if his character were a real man, which is clear in the letter below. "June 5, 1958I have just got back from abroad to find your sapient rebuke of 007’s timekeeping equipment.I have discussed this with him and he points out that the Rolex Oyster Perpetual weighs about six ounces and would appreciably slow up the use of his left hand in combat. His practice, in fact, is to use fairly cheap, expendable wrist watches on expanding metal bracelets which can be slipped over the thumb and used in the form of a knuckle-duster, either on the inside or outside of the hand.In passing on his comments to you, I would add that James Bond has trained himself to tell time by the sun in either hemisphere within a few minutes.Thank you, nevertheless, for raising the point and 007 wishes to assure you that when an appropriate time-piece is available he will wear it.” It seems that Fleming finally gave in, and wrote the Rolex Oyster Perpetual into On Her Majesty’s Secret Service five years later. His expanding metal bracelet remained. (Photo Credit: Rupley/ @Omegabondwatches) I make this case in its entirety to say this – Fleming himself only named a Rolex as Bond's dedicated watch after writing ten Bond stories, (Bond briefly wears one while diving in Live and Let Die, 1954, but according to Fleming's letter, daily wore other watches until OHMSS) and he himself argued against its inclusion initially as well. There’s nothing wrong with the brand, nor would I argue that Rolex watches do not have a place on Bond’s wrist. But if everything Fleming wrote remained today, and no evolution with the times had taken place, the character would still be driving a 1930s Bentley Blower and carrying a skeletonized .25 ACP Beretta that was underpowered and outdated even in 1953. Omega has a place in the Bond story, and it is one born out of a reimagining of an iconic character, a reimagining that saved the franchise, inspired GoldenEye 007 N64, and created a new generation of fans. Deriding the brand or discounting its inclusion in the mythos is a misunderstanding of history. Both Rolex and Omega have a place in the legacy of Bond, and they deserve our respect and celebration. (Photo Credit: Rupley) My sincere thanks to WOE for the opportunity to write this counter argument, my friend Lorenzo Anselmo (@omegabondwatches) for providing me and James Rupley with unfettered access to his astounding Omega collection. Read Next: James Bond should Wear A Rolex  —----------------------------------------------------------- The photography above, and much of the text stems from an upcoming project from Headstamp Publishing @headstamp and Caleb Daniels (@commandobond) – the first comprehensive study of all the firearms of James Bond, including every novel (Fleming and otherwise) and every screen treatment of the character. Other critical items, such as his watches, will be discussed in great detail, dissecting the most essential carry implements of one of the world’s most celebrated action heroes, James Bond, 007. Follow @headstamp and @commandobond to keep abreast of this project – so much more to come.

There are a few accessories that every watch owner needs, and a durable two-piece leather strap is one of them. So we went out and designed our own using the best craftsmen in America.  The Jedburgh is a two piece English Bridle Leather Strap and the Desert Night Camouflage (DNC) is a two piece leather/canvas strap using repurposed camouflage uniforms.

Prince Harry has worn at least four watches with strong military ties: a Pulsar G10, Rolex Explorer II, custom Breitling Aerospace Avantage, and even a Casio G-Shock.

You don’t mess with tradition. It’s a critical piece of culture, particularly in the Intelligence and Special Operations communities, and serves as a reminder of those who have come before us, and those who will come after us—that we’re all tied together. We’re all part of the same mission. 

In this edition of the Dispatch, we address some common questions we get about W.O.E with an in-depth response. Many of these responses can even serve as standalone stories– and probably will at some point, but for now, here’s some additional insight on Watches of Espionage.  READ PART II HERE What’s a good entry-level watch? What’s a good watch under $1,000? This is the most common question we get, and we love this question because it suggests that the W.O.E. platform is opening up people to the world of mechanical watches, something that we are clearly passionate about. If your takeaway from W.O.E. is that you need a Rolex to be a cool guy, you’re missing the point. We believe the man makes the watch, not the other way around.  A badass wearing a Hublot is still a badass, just as a dweeb wearing a Rolex MilSub is still just a dweeb. It’s about who you are, not the watch you’re wearing.  Read: Best Watches Under $1,000 - Ask The Experts (Photo Credit: James Rupley) There are plenty of great watches under $1,000 and other publications have compiled lists that feature both established manufacturers and micro-brands alike that offer serious value.  That said, our answer to this question is simple: Seiko. If you like “Watches of Espionage” then you will love this brand. When it comes to tools actually used in the field, you’re likely to find a Seiko on a professional’s wrist. Seiko, after all, is the “Toyota of watches”– they’re cheap and reliable utilitarian tools. For the same reasons Toyotas are a common sight in modern conflict zones, Seikos have adorned the wrists of hard men in hard places for decades. If you’re looking at dipping your toe in the proverbial pool of mechanical watches, this is a great place to start, and even end. Arabic Dial Seiko (Photo Credit: James Rupley) The follow-up question is always, "which model?" We hesitate to provide an answer to this because it’s a deeply personal choice.  You can scroll through our collection and others and see where we have landed, but it’s best to take some time and look through the website to see what speaks to you and what’s within your budget. The best way to land on the right reference is to find a Seiko dealer near you, try some on, and ask questions. You can get an entry-level Seiko for well under $300 and I cherish mine just as much as I do my most expensive Rolex. Unfortunately, one of the downsides to Seiko is that the bracelets are the weak point. They have a specific “jangle” and can feel like they’re of much lesser quality than that watch they’re attached to.  So use some of that leftover coin to buy a few straps and change them out frequently to figure out what you like.  All the W.O.E. products are designed to be worn/used with a Seiko or a Rolex. We will do a follow-on Dispatch at some point with some tips on buying watches with value in mind. What advice do you have for someone looking to join the CIA? The second most common question we get is, "How do I join the CIA?" While the purpose of this platform isn’t to inspire the next generation of public servants, we are quickly learning this is a byproduct of W.O.E., which is great. If you want to join the CIA, don't message someone anonymously claiming to be former CIA.  Keep this goal private and practice discretion. The Agency values discretion, hence the label of a quiet professional. Here are a few pieces of advice for those interested in the operational side of the house. Become a master of a trade. CIA hires former teachers, investment bankers, plumbers, businessmen, SpecOps, doctors, lawyers, and even professional athletes. Become unique and accomplished. Have a compelling story that will interest the CIA recruiter.  You can apply right out of college, but your chances of being accepted and thriving at the Agency will greatly increase if you have unique work/life experience. Travel. Live, work and study abroad. The one common trait of 99% of CIA Case Officers is that they have significant prior overseas experience. Your job is to understand geopolitics and empathize with individuals different from you.  This can only truly be learned and demonstrated through experience. Even if you aren't interested in joining the CIA, we still think we would all be better off if we travel and experience different cultures. Learn a language. Any language is advantageous, but the harder the better. Russian, Mandarin, Persian/Farsi, Korean etc. Turn on the news and see where the current/future conflicts are. The languages spoken in that area are generally of high interest and will make a CIA recruiter happy. Keep your nose clean. You don't have to be a saint (I saw the inside of a jail cell a couple times growing up and made more than a few bad decisions). But if you do drugs, stop. Don't drink and drive. Pay your taxes. Don't commit felonies. This is all good advice for joining the CIA, but even better advice for life. READ. This one is important. Read every book/article on the intelligence business you can find. This will help you figure out if it is right for you and where your interests are aligned. The current generation has a wealth of information at their fingertips on the Intelligence Community, including on the CIA’s own website.  Take advantage of this information and do your research. If you are a foreigner, find an unattributable internet portal and google  "CIA walk in." Lastly, a career as a Case Officer is more than just a job, it’s a calling and a way of life.  You have to be all in and cannot treat it like a 9-to-5. CIA is not perfect, but I loved my time working in the building and in the field.  It is not always an easy lifestyle and comes with unique challenges, but it is a great opportunity to serve your country, see the world and live a life worth living.  Happy hunting. What watch did you wear most operationally? In my initial Hodinkee article, “The Connection Between Watches and Espionage,” which was in many ways W.O.E.’s debut to the larger watch community, I wrote about wearing my titanium Panerai Luminor Marina 8 Day during a military coup in Africa. The opening story was a relatively mundane night, no heroic activities, just a standard night as a Case Officer operating in Africa. The only reason I even remember that watch that night was that it was relatively new, and the luminous numbers stuck out. In fact, I could have written that story about countless nights wearing several watches. W.O.E.’s personal IWC Mark XVII and Africa Division challenge coin. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) But, looking back at pictures of the years I was at CIA, the most common watch on my wrist appeared to be an IWC Mark XVII.  It is a great and versatile watch that can fit in with a suit and tie at a diplomatic function in Europe or jeans and a dirty t-shirt in the African bush.  It is also not overly flashy and would not draw undue attention.  W.O.E.'s IWC with W.O.E. DNC strap prototype (Photo Credit: Michael Shaffer / @capitolsunset) Truth is, I did not put much thought into my watch while overseas; it was a tool I used regularly.  This IWC has three letters engraved on the back, only one of which is one of my initials. The engraving caused some problems during a training exercise and then when I was (REDACTED) pulled into secondary for additional “screening” (interrogation).  Fortunately, I had come up with a cover story for the three letters as the initials of a fictitious father prior to the training exercise and it was not a significant issue.  It was a good lesson and reminder that the smallest details matter in the world of espionage. W.O.E.'s Breitling Aerospace (Photo Credit: Tom Brenner) A close second was the Breitling Aerospace that I received as a gift from King Abdullah of Jordan.  This is an entirely practical watch given the digital feature set.  The digital timer was particularly useful and was used to log activities during surveillance operations in African capitals, time debriefings of ISIS members, and to record legs of Surveillance Detection Runs. How do Case Officers, Special Operations personnel, etc. afford a Rolex? First, not every HUMINT collector or military “operator” wears a mechanical timepiece, let alone a luxury watch like Rolex, Breitling or Tudor.  It is easy to get this impression given the content at W.O.E., as there is a clear selection bias for the stories we tell.  While this was largely true in the mid-20th century when many of these watches were issued and/or easily purchased at the local PX, today the vast majority of "operators” rely on cheap and effective digital tool watches.  That said, there is a strong watch culture in both the military and intelligence circles, and the percentage of individuals that have mechanical and even luxury “tool watches” likely exceeds that of the civilian counterparts of the same socioeconomic status.  The reason for this is just as much (if not more) culture than anything else. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Second, not all mechanical or even luxury timepieces cost $10,000.  As discussed above, quality Seiko tool watches can be purchased for well under $1,000 and brands like Breitling, Panerai, IWC, Tudor and many others can be acquired second-hand for a fraction of the inflated prices of Rolex. So how do we afford them? The short answer is, the same as everyone else.  Contrary to many Hollywood representations of CIA officers, the majority of Case Officers I worked with did not come from elite Ivy League backgrounds or wealthy families.  They work hard and save up.  If you have spent the last 10-20 years in an operational capacity, you have likely spent several years deployed to a conflict or other hardship post and the government has compensated you (relatively) appropriately.  While you will not become rich from this calling, you will likely have earned enough disposable income and it can be used at your discretion to fund your hobbies and interests. Many choose to use some of the funds to purchase a watch. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) One example of this is the “war zone watch.” While a government salary does not support an extensive watch collection, when officers deploy to war zones for an extended period, their pay can almost double while their personal expenses are minimized. After returning from Iraq, Afghanistan, or one of the undeclared expeditionary locations, many officers take a portion of their savings and purchase a watch to discreetly commemorate the accomplishment. Further, as much as we all can’t stand the black box of who gets priority on the Authorized Dealers (AD) “waiting list”, the stores and sometimes even individual sales associates have significant leeway with whom they prioritize as customers.  Some ADs in Northern Virginia and metropolitan areas near large military bases prioritize clientele from military and government agencies. Why are you anonymous? I get the impression that a lot of people think the main reason behind W.O.E. being anonymous is because of OPSEC (operational security).  In reality, when I left CIA, I requested that my association with the Agency be declassified.  This was approved with certain stipulations/restrictions. W.O.E.’s hands busy influencing. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) The real reason “W.O.E.” is anonymous is twofold.  First, “Watches of Espionage” is not about one person, it’s about our entire community.  “W.O.E.” is the curator or the “guide” on this journey, but it’s not just about me.  I insert some of my own experiences and stories for context or to demonstrate a point but that’s it–it’s strictly to add additional information.  In fact, if you read the articles where my personal experiences are mentioned, I am not the hero; they’re relatively mundane experiences of a CIA Case Officer.  Secondly, I value my privacy.  I don’t want to be famous or an internet celebrity in either the watch or tactical community. That’s just not for me.  Additionally, being anonymous ironically allows me to be more authentic in my presentation of my watch collection and love of timepieces.  Posting expensive watches on social media can often accurately be interpreted as a “flex” or show-off and can quickly fall into “cringe” territory. Being anonymous allows me to show whatever I want without any of the added recognition.  What watch would you recommend for a woman in the field? “W.O.E. Mansplains What Watches Women Should Wear” is what I would call this article. Truth is, I am not qualified to really comment on this topic.  Check out Brynn Wallner who runs a platform called Dimepiece Co. if you are a woman interested in getting into watches.  She does a great job curating content specifically for women and is a disruptor in this industry. Homeland, not an accurate portrayal of female Case Officers (Photo Credit: HBO, Homeland) Traditionally there have been men’s and women's watches.  To simplify a complicated topic, men’s watches are generally larger and women’s smaller.  Recently there has been a movement to remove gender from watches and make them all unisex.  While we won’t take a position on this hyper-sensitive debate, we will say that there is no reason a woman couldn’t and shouldn’t wear a traditional men’s timepiece.  Mrs. W.O.E.'s current go-to timepiece is a Tudor Black Bay 58, one that many may say is a traditional men’s watch.  Likewise, some men appreciate and even prefer smaller timepieces that some may perceive as women’s watches.  More power to you. Wear whatever you want.  What is your grail watch? A “grail watch” is the ultimate watch for a collector, something that they would never sell if they were able to acquire it.  Like the “holy grail”, this watch is often unattainable, or incredibly unlikely to obtain. It is more of a fantasy than a realistic goal. Photo Credit: Tudor Collector, Ross Povey W.O.E.’s grail is a military-issued Tudor Submariner, specifically a South African military-issued Tudor Sub from the 1970s.  While I have no affinity for the South African Defence Force (especially from that time frame), I have spent much of my life living and working on the continent and would find the connection meaningful.  Pictured above is one of the few known watches, a 1974 South African Navy Issued Black Tudor Submariner 7016.  I want to do a full deep dive Dispatch article on this, if nothing else to build my knowledge base. Why do you not have a G-Shock in your collection? The Casio G-Shock is a great watch and if you are in a tactical or operational position, it’s hard to beat as a tool watch.  For deployed paramilitary officers or uniformed military personnel conducting direct action and kicking in doors it is a fantastic tool.  The same for Garmin, Suunto, Timex and the plethora of other digital pieces. There are some downsides, most notably the requirement for a battery, but they are cheap and relatively indestructible. Additionally, G-Shocks also have a cult following in the watch community and there are many collectible references and collaborations.  So why doesn’t W.O.E. have one in the toolbox? While it is ideal for military personnel, the Casio G-Shock is a clear “tell” for Americans to wear overseas.  For Case Officers, who mostly operate in capital cities while under cover (i.e. posing as something they aren’t) this watch can make one stick out as much as a gold Rolex Daytona. A decade ago I was posted overseas in a major African capital.  The conflicts in Iraq and Afghanistan were dying down, but the “Global War on Terror” was still in full swing and a priority for the USG.  Department of Defense personnel had flooded into Africa to conduct overt military assistance to host country nations.  One night I was out for drinks with an early local contact at a high-end hotel when a group of civilian-clothed USMIL personnel walked in. Tactical? (Photo Credit: Casio) My contact, who was not yet aware of my Agency affiliation, eyed the group as they took their seats at the bar and proudly said, “There are some of your spies, you can always spot American spies, they have beards and wear large plastic watches on the inside of their wrists.”  I don’t remember what watch I was wearing that night, but I do know it wasn’t a large black tactical watch.  It would have been something that supported my cover as an American (REDACTED). Navy SEALs conducting VBSS while wearing G-Shock, likely DW-6600 (Photo Credit: US Navy) We have detailed the role digital watches play in espionage and regardless of one’s horological interests or occupation, a cheap and reliable digital timepiece is a must in any collection.  My go-to is a Timex Ironman, which I use for PT and other water activities when I want to record specific times. Would you wear another unit’s unit watch? Does this qualify as stolen Valor? We have written extensively about unit watches and there are some cool references like the SAS Explorer II that sometimes show up for sale or auction.  While it is unfortunate that some operators choose to part with these meaningful timepieces, we also understand that life circumstances change, and the astronomical secondary market can become irresistible. Special Air Service Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570 (Photo Credit: Sotheby’s) Short answer is yes, I would wear another unit’s watch and I do not view this as stolen valor.  For example, if someone gave me the SAS Rolex Explorer II (I couldn’t afford or want to spend the asking price), I would wear it.  In fact, the watch ending up with a true collector who appreciates the history and meaning behind a unit watch is probably a good thing.  The caveat to all of this is that it all comes down to intention: if someone uses the watch to attempt to convince someone that they served in a specific unit when they did not, of course that is taboo.  But there are far easier and more effective forms of stolen valor than spending a small fortune on a collectable timepiece.  What are your opinions on smart watches? This is a fascinating topic and something I will dive into deeper in a future Dispatch, a lot to unpack here.  First, in general we are not against smart watches, in my post-government life I have worked in emerging technology and the benefits of “wearables” including smart watches are immense.  Even though they are contrary to much of what we put out at W.O.E., smart watches are great tools, providing immediate and actionable data to increase your health, productivity, and situational awareness. Apple Watch (Photo Credit: Apple) That said, for people in the business of espionage, smart watches and the internet of things (IoT) have profound counterintelligence implications and are not ideal.  For one, wireless devices are not permitted in SCIFs (sensitive compartmented information facility) so they are not even an option for most while at work.  Secondly, as previously documented, smart devices are certainly not a spy’s best friend. When wading through a Middle Eastern souk trying to detect and avoid hostile intelligence services, wearing a beacon with a microphone that tracks your every move, on your wrist or in your pocket, simply is not acceptable. Secret Australian government installation on the Strava heat map showing routes of staff movements logged in the app. (Photo Credit: Daily Mail / Strava) In late-2017, open-source fitness tracker data was used to reveal the location of sensitive military locations in countries including Syria, Niger, and Afghanistan. A reliable timepiece is a necessity to ensure you conduct your operational act (agent meeting) at the exact time and place without leaving behind a digital footprint that can be pieced together by a competent hostile intelligence service. Sometimes it’s best to do things the old-fashioned way. Again, this is a great topic and something we will flesh this out in more detail in a future Dispatch. Read More: CIA Officers And Apple Watches What is a modern MACV-SOG Seiko? As documented in the Dispatch: Vietnam MACV-SOG Seikos: Setting The Record Straight, “SOG Seikos” are one of the greatest historical examples of “Watches of Espionage.”  They are procured using black budget funds and issued to SOG operators as sterile and untraceable equipment. Seiko’s cult-like following combined with military historians’ fascination with SOG has made the MACV-SOG Seikos incredibly collectable (i.e. expensive).   While the prices of the MACV-SOG Seikos have recently skyrocketed to well over $1,000 if you can even find them, for those interested in purchasing a modern version, the SNK381K1 is as close as it gets. At 37mm, it is smaller than most modern watches, but throw it on a green nylon strap, add a tactical compass, and you can play the part. W.O.E.’s personal modern MACV-SOG, Seiko SNK381K1 If you really want to signal to others that you are a tactical watch bro, wear it on the inside of your wrist like John Stryker Meyer did in Vietnam. Like most Seikos, it is relatively affordable and you should be sub-$200 all in. Pretty cool watch.  Do you plan to restock straps, cases etc? Yes, all of our products are hand made in the US/UK so they take time and cannot be mass produced. We are working on some unique and innovative things for 2023 and will announce them in the newsletter.  We should have a large release of W.O.E. Travel Pouches in late January/early February and we are really excited about the leather straps later in February.  The next release of the W.O.E. Zulu Alpha Strap is TBD.  Sign up for “Notify Me When Available” for anything that interests you. (HINT-HINT)  More to come! Thanks for the support. Read Next: The Connection Between Watches And Espionage This Dispatch has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

In preparation for the holidays, we provide the W.O.E. stamp of approval on the following products/companies/groups.   We have closed up “shop” for the year but will be back next year with leather straps, more W.O.E. Travel Pouches, a new coin and a few more exciting things in the works.  Please sign up for “Notify Me When Available” for anything that interests you. In the meantime, check out the following items as gifts for loved ones, friends or yourself. Watches: Arabic-Dial Seiko, SNKP21J1:  This has become the “W.O.E. hype watch.” In fact, it is attainable and can be purchased for a couple hundred dollars on Amazon or other online retailers. A great gift for a loved one. Tudor Ranger: 39mm simple field watch.  At approximately $3,000 depending on the configuration, this is a great affordable luxury tool watch.  Perfect if you are looking to splurge on a timepiece for a spouse, child or parent. CWC SBS DIVER ISSUE (QS120-DD): A great overall quartz tool watch with British Ministry of Defense heritage.  Available for £582.50. Wind Vintage: In the vintage watch world, Eric Wind is the OG.  Wind Vintage specializes in high-end timepieces (primarily watches before 1990 and above $15,000) and focuses on condition, condition, condition.  If you are looking to surprise W.O.E. with a Christmas present, please consider this Rolex “James Bond” / “Big Crown” Submariner reference 6538 with "Four-Line Dial.” The Grey NA.TO: TGN is a community of like-minded individuals who believe in using their tools.  Hosts Jason Heaton and James Stacey break down their love for adventure, their addiction to watches, and also discuss travel, diving, driving and gear.  A subscription to The Grey NA.TO includes a strap (grey, of course), stickers and access to additional content.  At $100 a year, a unique gift for someone who has everything. The Observer Collection:  Whisky Wallet.  Marine-turned-photographer/designer, Robert Spangle has some unique designs for everyday travel items.  The Whisky Wallet is a compact card wallet ideal in a dinner jacket. It owes much of its DNA to traditional Inrō containers and packs a slim expandable coin pocket. $200 Watchistry:  When it comes to Marine Nationale watches, Watchistry (literally) wrote the book.  He also has some great merchandise in his store, including the MN Enamel Mug. (Check out the books also) $19.00  Field Ethos Journal: The Everything Mug. It ain't cheap, but like most things in life, you get what you pay for.  “Your grandchildren will be drinking from it.” $150 Watch Straps:   When it comes to straps, we are the opposite of monogamous.  We are promiscuous.  In addition to our W.O.E. Zulu Alpha strap, W.O.E. will be releasing leather straps in 2023.  In the meantime, check out a few ones that we like to rock. Zulu Alpha: Beyond the W.O.E.-ZA Collaboration, ZA has a range of straps to check out. $50-$145 Zane's Handmade:  Handmade Horween leather straps crafted by a recent US Mil veteran.  $85-95 Soturi Design: Cordura Straps. Designed for living and built to last, the Victory strap is both rugged and refined. Inspired by Cordura’s military heritage, we chose this material as a nod to the fabric’s proven performance in many of the world’s toughest environments. $135 Saga Trading Co.-Peplor: Leather strap with raindrop camo pattern.  Strichtarn, or more commonly “raindrop camo” pattern, was adopted by East Germany in the mid- 1960s. Since then, it has seen use by Croatia, Czechoslovakia, Poland, South Africa, and Uzbekistan. $155 Art: Bad Art Nice Watch:  Commission a piece on your favorite watch.  Check out the one he did for the Jordanian Breitling. King Kennedy Rugs: We have no idea who runs this company, but his rugs are incredible. Check out these “Vintage Rolex Hand Woven Rugs” rugs from Afghanistan. $325  Prairie Fire Art Company, "Resistance" WWII OSS Jedburgh Art Print:  In 1944, the Jedburgh teams of the American OSS and the British SOE (including French officers) dropped into Nazi- occupied Europe to organize, train and lead into battle the resistance forces of France, the Netherlands and other European nations. This painting depicts an American Jedburgh officer meeting members of the French Resistance. The officer wears a Gallet Clamshell Chronograph - a popular choice with American aviators and special operations officers in Britain during the lead up to the invasion.  Ad Patina: The best in the game when it comes to vintage watch advertisements.  Prices vary. Justin Sowders: Want to commission a piece of horological art? Sowders is your guy. He’s developed a unique style that’s unlike anything else in the space. He’s done pieces that now hang in the halls of HODINKEE and Citizen HQ, and maybe above your fireplace next. Price on request.  Knives: Half Face Blades: Half Face Blades was founded by Andrew Arrabito, Navy SEAL (ret.), to meet the need for high-quality, “go-to” knives and axes – usable, personalized, functional, versatile tools that work for every person in every walk of life. Half Face Blades knives are designed with the distinction and ruggedness required for the work they are intended to do. Each knife is calculated to meet requirements gained by experience, by testing knives and axes, by using them over time at sea and in remote wildernesses. Brad Cavner signature series. $375 Emerson Commander: The ultimate utility knife, designed to go anywhere, anytime, and to get the job done, the Commander is the ultimate “all-rounder.” Whether you're on patrol, hunting that white-tailed buck or stripping wires to run electrical in the “she-shed,” the Commander does it all with ease.  $269.85 Dynamis Alliance - Winkler Knives: Razorback, a staple in W.O.E.'s EDC. Books- A Man & His Watch: Iconic Watches and Stories from the Men Who Wore Them, Matt Hranek:  Paul Newman wore his Rolex Daytona every single day for 35 years until his death in 2008. The iconic timepiece, probably the single most sought-after watch in the world, is now in the possession of his daughter Clea, who wears it every day in his memory. Franklin Roosevelt wore an elegant gold Tiffany watch, gifted to him by a friend on his birthday, to the famous Yalta Conference where he shook the hands of Joseph Stalin and Winston Churchill. JFK's Omega worn to his presidential inauguration, Ralph Lauren's watch purchased from Andy Warhol's personal collection, Sir Edmund Hillary's Rolex worn during the first-ever summit of Mt. Everest . . . these and many more compose the stories of the world's most coveted watches captured in A Man and His Watch. Matthew Hranek, a watch collector and NYC men's style fixture, has traveled the world conducting firsthand interviews and diving into exclusive collections to gather the never-before-told stories of 76 watches, completed with stunning original photography of every single piece.  $28.49 A Die Hard Christmas: A true story.  All John McClane wants for Christmas is to reunite with his estranged family. But when his wife’s office holiday party turns into a deadly hostage situation, he has to save her life before he can get home in time for Christmas!  The unconventional fan-favorite movie Die Hard is now an illustrated storybook- complete with machine guns, European terrorists, and a cop who’s forced to rely on all his cunning and skills (and the help of a fellow officer) to save the day. Based on the classic “Night Before Christmas” poem and filled with whimsical illustrations, this cleverly reimagined homage is destined to become a holiday classic.  Depth Charge, Jason Heaton: Julian “Tusker” Tusk, an American archaeologist, is excavating a shipwreck half a world from home when a research boat catches fire and sinks, killing an old friend. The tragedy sets in motion a dangerous quest for truth that pulls Tusker into a sinister plot spanning 75 years, from World War II Ceylon to modern day Sri Lanka. Along the way, he matches wits with a psychopathic mercenary, discovers a long lost ship with an explosive secret, and falls for a beautiful marine biologist who is at least as strong as he is. In the end, Tusker finds that the truth may lie at the bottom of the sea, with only one way back to the surface. Depth Charge is an old school thriller in the tradition of Fleming, Maclean, and Cussler, with an eye for detail, cunning villains, and narrow escapes. The story is full of wartime secrets, the intersection of religion and politics, and the arcane world of deep technical diving. It takes readers from the smoky halls of 1940s London to the volatile, seductive heat of Sri Lanka and sixty fathoms under the Indian Ocean. Try not to hold your breath.  $14.39 Watch Annual:  A book for watch lovers, by watch lovers. A reflection of 2022 in watches; celebrating the best of design and complication — and a reference for years to come.  An honor for W.O.E. to be featured in the 2022 Watch Annual.  Our submission was the Tudor Pelagos 39, in my opinion the best luxury tool watch from this year.  £29.99 Selling the Crown: The Secret History of Marketing Rolex, Brendan Cunningham, PHD: During World War II, a new front opened in the battle between the Axis and Allied powers: propaganda. Little-known archival records reveal that in the postwar period, British veterans of covert warfare applied their experiences in a new arena: advertising. This is the inside story of those who marketed Rolex, one of the most valuable and secretive brands in world history. The company's reputation for luxury and exclusivity was built, in part, using the strategies and tactics that were sharpened through secretive global conflict. Vickers Guide: The firearms and content in Vickers Guide have been sourced and curated by Larry Vickers – twenty year U.S. Army Special Operations veteran and combat marksmanship instructor, 1911 custom builder, and firearms industry consultant.  Photography and publishing by James Rupley, who also happens to have taken most of the professional shots on Watches of Espionage. Starting at $98.00 Skunk Works: A Personal Memoir of My Years at Lockheed: You may have heard about the recent debut of the B-21 Raider. That stealth bomber is made by Northrop Grumman, they lost the contract to competitor Lockheed, which developed planes like the SR-71 and plenty more that only a few know about. Skunkworks is the secretive division of Lockheed that works on developing aircraft one step ahead of everyone else. This book is the best bit of insight on what happens inside Skunkworks. It’s a quick and fun read. Starting at $5.  Terminal List Series, Jack Carr: Applying the experience and emotions from real-world combat to the pages of his novels, Jack Carr brings unprecedented levels of authenticity to the political thriller, taking readers on a behind the scenes journey into the mind of a modern-day special operations soldier, dispensing an ancient form of justice in today’s modern geopolitical landscape. Some great watch content also! First Casualty: The Untold Story of the CIA Mission to Avenge 9/11, Toby Harnden: America is reeling; Al-Qaeda has struck, and thousands are dead. The country scrambles to respond, but the Pentagon has no plan for Afghanistan - where Osama bin Laden masterminded the attack and is protected by the Taliban. Instead, the CIA steps forward to spearhead the war. Eight CIA officers are dropped into the mountains of Northern Afghanistan on October 17, 2001. They are Team Alpha, an eclectic band of linguists, tribal experts, and elite warriors: the first Americans to operate inside Taliban territory. Their covert mission is to track down Al-Qaeda and stop the terrorists from infiltrating the United States again. The Main Enemy: The Inside Story of the CIA's Final Showdown with the KGB: A landmark collaboration between a thirty-year veteran of the CIA and a Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist, The Main Enemy is the dramatic inside story of the CIA-KGB spy wars, told through the actions of the men who fought them. Based on hundreds of interviews with operatives from both sides, The Main Enemy puts us inside the heads of CIA officers as they dodge surveillance and walk into violent ambushes in Moscow. This is the story of the generation of spies who came of age in the shadow of the Cuban missile crisis and rose through the ranks to run the CIA and KGB in the last days of the Cold War. The clandestine operations they masterminded took them from the sewers of Moscow to the back streets of Baghdad, from Cairo and Havana to Prague and Berlin, but the action centers on Washington, starting in the infamous "Year of the Spy"--when, one by one, the CIA’s agents in Moscow began to be killed, up through to the very last man. Hot Sauce:  Tabasco: Tabasco is an American brand of hot sauce made from vinegar, tabasco peppers (Capsicum frutescens var. tabasco), and salt. It is produced by McIlhenny Company of Avery Island in south Louisiana, having been created over 150 years ago by Edmund McIlhenny. Priceless. *W.O.E. has received no financial compensation for the above products and these are NOT/NOT sponsored.  Please do your own research before making any purchases.

The Casio F-91W’s reputation looms large in both horology and national security circles, and for good reason. The simple, cheap and effective plastic watch is likely one of the most ubiquitous timepieces on the planet, with an estimated three million produced each year since sometime in the early 1990s. However, the watch that is coveted by hipsters and former presidents alike has a more sinister utility: it has been used to deadly effect as a timer for explosive charges and Improvised Explosive Devices (IEDs) and worn regularly by members of al-Qaeda, ISIS and other transnational militant groups. 

Blackwater Breitling: Regardless of one's personal views on Blackwater and their impact on global events, one cannot properly recount the history of modern Intelligence and Special Operations without discussing Blackwater. In the niche genre of military timepieces and Watches of Espionage this is an important story. Breitling developed this tool watch in the early 1990’s initially focused on the military and the aviation sectors. It was a practical wrist instrument designed for a singular purpose, to locate and rescue those in need.  

W.O.E. Single Pass Zulu Alpha Strap. At Watches of Espionage, our product development model is to partner with true professionals –masters of their craft– to develop distinct and highly functional products that honor our community and our core belief that you should “use your tools.”

by Cole Pennington A watch is just a watch–until we add meaning to it. Open up the Rand McNally Encyclopedia of Military Aircraft, turn to the section on American warbirds and you’ll notice one plane is broken out under the heading “The P-51 Mustang: Perhaps the greatest fighter of them all”. The use of a superlative is a tricky claim to make when the pages are filled with the Mustang’s capable contemporaries like the Supermarine Spitfire, the Mitsubishi A6M5 Zero, and the P-47 Thunderbolt. But if you grew up in the ‘80s or ‘90s, you knew that this book was the authority on military aircraft. If Rand McNally said it was the greatest fighter of them all, then it was. That one encyclopedia entry set the stage for a lifelong admiration of the P-51D. The plane came to represent more than just an exceptional piece of engineering; instead it became a symbol for the unbreakable American spirit and strength in the face of adversity. My fascination was bolstered by watching movies like Saving Private Ryan and The Thin Red Line and seeing the Mustang come through when it’s needed most. We often project these ideological values onto physical objects, I’m certainly guilty of it. In fact, the last thing James Kindelberger and Edgar Schmued were thinking about when they brought the Mustang to life was greatness. The plane was an answer to a proposal made by the British Purchasing Commission. It was a pragmatic solution to answer the growing needs of wartime. Like most mechanical objects I’ve grown to admire, it was born out of a need to get something done. It’s less art, and more tool. Ahead of a big move to another continent, my girlfriend arranged a flight on the legendary warbird to punctuate our time in America as we prepared to move to Europe. After all these years, I finally got to experience another dimension of the Mustang: the aerial capabilities that established its dominance during WWII. Suddenly it wasn’t all ethereal and philosophical. Six G’s makes you forget about all that stuff and focus on just keeping your head on straight. Man O'War, the P-51D I flew on, was first shipped to England during WWII but didn’t see any combat time. Later it found a home with the New Jersey National Guard. Today it rips through the skies of Palm Springs, CA, inspiring both those in the back seat and on the ground. Adding an emotional layer to an inanimate physical object isn’t just something that happens with planes, of course. On a much smaller scale, it happens with watches, too. For the Mustang ride, there was only one watch that made sense to wear, and it wasn’t a pairing I came up with. The legendary pilot Chuck Yeager started working with Rolex in 1946, but it was in the ‘80s that an advertisement featuring Yeager in front of a P-51D Mustang, wearing a GMT-Master II on his wrist was first published. That day, flying in the Mustang with my GMT-Master II on my own wrist, I finally figured out why both the Mustang and the Rolex had become ideological symbols of something much bigger and more powerful than the actual tools they are. There’s nothing greater than being inspired and reminded of what we’re capable of. We need heroes and legends to do that. Stories of this nature are the oldest form of currency. And sometimes it takes a watch or a plane to serve as a reminder of how much human ingenuity and perseverance we have within us. That’s what it’s really about.