The W.O.E. Tudor PVD Pelagos FXD

The W.O.E. Tudor PVD Pelagos FXD

Customizing my dream watch, the W.O.E. PVD Pelagos FXD When Tudor released the Black Pelagos FXD last year, I instantly knew I wanted one to...

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Customizing my dream watch, the W.O.E. PVD Pelagos FXD When Tudor released the Black Pelagos FXD last year, I instantly knew I wanted one to land in my collection.  Watches of Espionage is vehemently brand agnostic, but we have a special respect for Tudor, given the brand's seven-plus decade relationship with our community.  The FXD platform is the latest manifestation of this particular relationship. It’s the only modern “luxury” watch that was developed for not one, but two, modern SpecOps units. And I don’t mean a special edition made for a specific unit–the entire design, and every design decision, of the FXD stems from a particular use case in the SpecOps world.  That said, I already had the blue French “Commando Hubert” version. Was it prudent to want the same watch, just in black?   Of course. This whole passion is irrational anyway.  But if I was going to go for this watch, I wanted to do something different with it.  Over the past six months, I worked with several craftsmen to customize the FXD to make it mine, a poor man's “pièce unique”. The first thing we did was PVD’d the titanium fixed spring bar case resulting in a striking black-on-black look. This of course involves taking the whole case apart and PVDing each element, including the bezel. The PVD also has a mostly matte finish, so it matches the ceramic bezel insert well. Even though this was going to be mine, I wanted to maintain a standard that could have come from the factory. And since the caseback is sterile from the factory, we topped it off by engraving a W.O.E. insignia. Every watch has meaning, and this one commemorates the establishment of W.O.E. as a community, an accomplishment I never set out to achieve. The last step was designing a new handmade strap with our friends at Zulu Alpha, the W.O.E.-ZA 4.0 (available HERE).  That’s an overview of the watch; now I’ll get into the thought process behind each detail and my philosophy behind modifying this particular piece.  The W.O.E. FXD The W.O.E. FXD (if I can be vain enough to call it that) is a homage, a term that may conjure images of Seikos modified to look like Rolex – something that I am personally not a fan of.  But it’s an homage in the true sense of the word, specifically to the SpecOps who modified their Tudor MilSubs for operational use. One popular narrative is that the Orfina Porsche Design Chronograph I was the first PVD watch. However, SpecOps personnel modified their Swiss tool watches long before that.  Most notably, the Israeli Defense Force (IDF) Shayetet 13 (S-13) frogmen darkened their issued Tudor Submariner 7928 in the late 1960s, crudely painting them black to prevent glare and reflection of the steel cases.  For Special Operations personnel, and particularly those in a maritime environment, the glint of a watch during an operation could have lethal consequences.  The watches were tools, and they were modified to carry out their job effectively.  While it’s nearly impossible to trace the lineage of PVD watches for every brand, military applications likely had a direct impact on this development of all PVD watches. In fact, Rolex's only known “black” dive watch was a one-off blacked out version of the MilSub Ref. 5513 for the South African Special Forces.  While Rolex didn’t roll out PVD in a commercial capacity, its sister brand, Tudor, would go on to produce PVD watches in later years, whether directly influenced by the S-13 and other military units we can only speculate.  But heritage matters; it informs every decision a brand makes. PVD: StealthMaxx DLC Finish Recalling that our friend Cole Pennington PVD’d an Arabic Seiko for a Hodinkee Magazine article, I contacted Jack at International Watch Works, a family-owned business.  When asked about the feasibility of PVD’ing the titanium case, he said it was not a problem; he had in fact just completed PVD’ing a blue Marine Nationale FXD (which turned out to be for Tom Place, a stuntman searching for his long-lost Rolex at the bottom of a lake).  The process was relatively simple.  Jack disassembled the watch and coated every bit of titanium, leaving the dial assembly and ceramic bezel insert to the side.  “PVD” is an abbreviation for Physical Vapor Deposition. It’s a process, not necessarily a coating. A solid material is selected, in this case diamond like carbon (DLC), to coat a base metal or substrate surface. That material is vaporized and deposited on the base or substrate material, bonding molecularly with the base material. The PVD/DLC coating is so fine that the serial numbers and factory engravings on the caseback are still visible even after the coating. It’s only microns thick; it’s not thick enough to obscure the characteristics of the case. Having worn the watch daily and with a lot of time in the pool and ocean, I have noticed no wear or abrasion on the coating, although I wouldn’t necessarily view scars as a bad thing.  During our conversation, Jack informed me that he has PVD’d watches for SpecOps personnel for years, which comes as no surprise given his location in North Carolina. Engraving: Always Read the Caseback The W.O.E. insignia signifies a very deep meaning for many in our community, with influence from the spearhead worn by our predecessors in the WWII-era Office of Strategic Services (OSS) as well as modern day intel and SpecOps units.  Today, this insignia has become an important part of my life. It’s a source of pride that I don’t share with many.  The caseback engraving is covered by the strap and that’s just how I like it. It's not for you, it’s for me.  The deep diamond tip engraving through the PVD into the titanium creates a more substantial profile and a stark contrast to the black case. It’s bold. Looking at it, it’s easy to see how much meaning comes with it.  W.O.E. - Zulu Alpha 4.0 Strap As a “fixed” springbar case, the Pelagos FXD is often called a “strap monster”-- a term so overused it’s become meaningless. Yes, any 22mm strap will work on the watch, but it’s really about finding the right strap. With a customization like this, I wanted to ensure the strap was the perfect match–subtle enough not to overshadow the watch. So I reached out to our friends at UK-based and veteran owned Zulu Alpha Straps to create a unique design that honored our ethos as a community and tapped into the traditions of those who came before us.  The result is an understated olive allied green strap with a discreet W.O.E. spearhead-only insignia applied between the strap keepers, which is covered up when worn. Again, it’s not about showing the insignia. Like the caseback, it’s obscured when the watch is worn.  The development of this strap coincided with Zulu Alpha’s latest iteration of the “OTAN” strap and significant performance enhancements.  To promote longevity, the strap has a narrower tang, round holes, and a slightly shorter length at 30 cm.  The “patch” was adhered directly to the strap with a new technology developed by ZA, resulting in a OEM feel.  While we never planned to commercialize this version, we knew we would receive many requests, so this is dubbed, the W.O.E.-ZA 4.0. Photo Credit: Rob / @rw_m100 Dial Modification I have considered customizing the dial with a red W.O.E. at 6 o’clock.  That said, this would require a complete dial refinish.  While the watch is striking to those who know the FXD, when worn it's a more subtle customization as there are no visible insignias.  Discretion is a prized attribute in our field, if you know, you know is the way. Controversy of Watch Customization Customizing watches is a major point of contention in the collecting community, with many “purists” believing the watches should remain as they were originally designed.  Turning this upside-down, London-based George Bamford originally made a name for himself in the 2000s for customizing Rolex watches into unconventional designs, much to the chagrin of the Swiss luxury brands.   Bamford Watch modification (A Blog to Watch) However, times have changed, and Bamford has since been embraced by many watch houses and even has joint customizations programs with major brands including Zenith and Tag Heuer.  Further, “mod culture” as it’s known appears to have trickled into mainstream design and while the suits in Geneva would never admit it, the new Day-Date “emoji dial” is certainly reminiscent of a customized dial treatment than a traditional Rolex design.   Will we see a PVD FXD released from Tudor? Tudor’s playbook is simple.  It designs a watch, releases it to the masses and then iterates on that design with size, material, and color schemes.  This process has led some detractors to criticize the brand (Do we really need another Black Bay?)--but in the end, it works.  While selfishly I hope this remains one of the few “PVD FXDs,” it would be an easy win for Tudor to produce this design for the masses and I wouldn’t be surprised if we saw a version become available to the public in the coming years. A Few Thoughts To the uninitiated, this article may seem like a waste of time.  So, what, you painted your watch black?  Maybe. But it’s never just a watch.  When I look at this watch, I think of the people that made both it and W.O.E. a reality, and of all the times it’s been on my wrist.  No matter where this platform goes, it will always hold a special place because it is uniquely mine. There Are No Rules We are of the strong belief that there are no rules when it comes to timepieces.  If you want to polish your Rolex every few years to keep it looking shiny, do it.  If your dream is to modify your Patek to look like a Seiko, have fun.  If you want to put aftermarket diamonds on your AP to celebrate making it out of the trap, congratulations.   Don’t let conventional wisdom and outside pressure dictate how you enjoy this passion. Life’s too short to live in a box dictated by the watch industry suits or hype collectors pushing an agenda.  Have fun, use your tools, and don't take things too seriously.  -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our free weekly newsletter for further updates HERE.  Sincere appreciation to my dear friend and master of his craft James Rupley for capturing these pictures of the W.O.E. FXD and really bringing it to life for the community. Read Next: James Bond Should Wear a Rolex

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The W.O.E. Tudor PVD Pelagos FXD

The W.O.E. Tudor PVD Pelagos FXD

Customizing my dream watch, the W.O.E. PVD Pelagos FXD When Tudor released the Black Pelagos FXD last year, I instantly knew I wanted one to...

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Customizing my dream watch, the W.O.E. PVD Pelagos FXD When Tudor released the Black Pelagos FXD last year, I instantly knew I wanted one to land in my collection.  Watches of Espionage is vehemently brand agnostic, but we have a special respect for Tudor, given the brand's seven-plus decade relationship with our community.  The FXD platform is the latest manifestation of this particular relationship. It’s the only modern “luxury” watch that was developed for not one, but two, modern SpecOps units. And I don’t mean a special edition made for a specific unit–the entire design, and every design decision, of the FXD stems from a particular use case in the SpecOps world.  That said, I already had the blue French “Commando Hubert” version. Was it prudent to want the same watch, just in black?   Of course. This whole passion is irrational anyway.  But if I was going to go for this watch, I wanted to do something different with it.  Over the past six months, I worked with several craftsmen to customize the FXD to make it mine, a poor man's “pièce unique”. The first thing we did was PVD’d the titanium fixed spring bar case resulting in a striking black-on-black look. This of course involves taking the whole case apart and PVDing each element, including the bezel. The PVD also has a mostly matte finish, so it matches the ceramic bezel insert well. Even though this was going to be mine, I wanted to maintain a standard that could have come from the factory. And since the caseback is sterile from the factory, we topped it off by engraving a W.O.E. insignia. Every watch has meaning, and this one commemorates the establishment of W.O.E. as a community, an accomplishment I never set out to achieve. The last step was designing a new handmade strap with our friends at Zulu Alpha, the W.O.E.-ZA 4.0 (available HERE).  That’s an overview of the watch; now I’ll get into the thought process behind each detail and my philosophy behind modifying this particular piece.  The W.O.E. FXD The W.O.E. FXD (if I can be vain enough to call it that) is a homage, a term that may conjure images of Seikos modified to look like Rolex – something that I am personally not a fan of.  But it’s an homage in the true sense of the word, specifically to the SpecOps who modified their Tudor MilSubs for operational use. One popular narrative is that the Orfina Porsche Design Chronograph I was the first PVD watch. However, SpecOps personnel modified their Swiss tool watches long before that.  Most notably, the Israeli Defense Force (IDF) Shayetet 13 (S-13) frogmen darkened their issued Tudor Submariner 7928 in the late 1960s, crudely painting them black to prevent glare and reflection of the steel cases.  For Special Operations personnel, and particularly those in a maritime environment, the glint of a watch during an operation could have lethal consequences.  The watches were tools, and they were modified to carry out their job effectively.  While it’s nearly impossible to trace the lineage of PVD watches for every brand, military applications likely had a direct impact on this development of all PVD watches. In fact, Rolex's only known “black” dive watch was a one-off blacked out version of the MilSub Ref. 5513 for the South African Special Forces.  While Rolex didn’t roll out PVD in a commercial capacity, its sister brand, Tudor, would go on to produce PVD watches in later years, whether directly influenced by the S-13 and other military units we can only speculate.  But heritage matters; it informs every decision a brand makes. PVD: StealthMaxx DLC Finish Recalling that our friend Cole Pennington PVD’d an Arabic Seiko for a Hodinkee Magazine article, I contacted Jack at International Watch Works, a family-owned business.  When asked about the feasibility of PVD’ing the titanium case, he said it was not a problem; he had in fact just completed PVD’ing a blue Marine Nationale FXD (which turned out to be for Tom Place, a stuntman searching for his long-lost Rolex at the bottom of a lake).  The process was relatively simple.  Jack disassembled the watch and coated every bit of titanium, leaving the dial assembly and ceramic bezel insert to the side.  “PVD” is an abbreviation for Physical Vapor Deposition. It’s a process, not necessarily a coating. A solid material is selected, in this case diamond like carbon (DLC), to coat a base metal or substrate surface. That material is vaporized and deposited on the base or substrate material, bonding molecularly with the base material. The PVD/DLC coating is so fine that the serial numbers and factory engravings on the caseback are still visible even after the coating. It’s only microns thick; it’s not thick enough to obscure the characteristics of the case. Having worn the watch daily and with a lot of time in the pool and ocean, I have noticed no wear or abrasion on the coating, although I wouldn’t necessarily view scars as a bad thing.  During our conversation, Jack informed me that he has PVD’d watches for SpecOps personnel for years, which comes as no surprise given his location in North Carolina. Engraving: Always Read the Caseback The W.O.E. insignia signifies a very deep meaning for many in our community, with influence from the spearhead worn by our predecessors in the WWII-era Office of Strategic Services (OSS) as well as modern day intel and SpecOps units.  Today, this insignia has become an important part of my life. It’s a source of pride that I don’t share with many.  The caseback engraving is covered by the strap and that’s just how I like it. It's not for you, it’s for me.  The deep diamond tip engraving through the PVD into the titanium creates a more substantial profile and a stark contrast to the black case. It’s bold. Looking at it, it’s easy to see how much meaning comes with it.  W.O.E. - Zulu Alpha 4.0 Strap As a “fixed” springbar case, the Pelagos FXD is often called a “strap monster”-- a term so overused it’s become meaningless. Yes, any 22mm strap will work on the watch, but it’s really about finding the right strap. With a customization like this, I wanted to ensure the strap was the perfect match–subtle enough not to overshadow the watch. So I reached out to our friends at UK-based and veteran owned Zulu Alpha Straps to create a unique design that honored our ethos as a community and tapped into the traditions of those who came before us.  The result is an understated olive allied green strap with a discreet W.O.E. spearhead-only insignia applied between the strap keepers, which is covered up when worn. Again, it’s not about showing the insignia. Like the caseback, it’s obscured when the watch is worn.  The development of this strap coincided with Zulu Alpha’s latest iteration of the “OTAN” strap and significant performance enhancements.  To promote longevity, the strap has a narrower tang, round holes, and a slightly shorter length at 30 cm.  The “patch” was adhered directly to the strap with a new technology developed by ZA, resulting in a OEM feel.  While we never planned to commercialize this version, we knew we would receive many requests, so this is dubbed, the W.O.E.-ZA 4.0. Photo Credit: Rob / @rw_m100 Dial Modification I have considered customizing the dial with a red W.O.E. at 6 o’clock.  That said, this would require a complete dial refinish.  While the watch is striking to those who know the FXD, when worn it's a more subtle customization as there are no visible insignias.  Discretion is a prized attribute in our field, if you know, you know is the way. Controversy of Watch Customization Customizing watches is a major point of contention in the collecting community, with many “purists” believing the watches should remain as they were originally designed.  Turning this upside-down, London-based George Bamford originally made a name for himself in the 2000s for customizing Rolex watches into unconventional designs, much to the chagrin of the Swiss luxury brands.   Bamford Watch modification (A Blog to Watch) However, times have changed, and Bamford has since been embraced by many watch houses and even has joint customizations programs with major brands including Zenith and Tag Heuer.  Further, “mod culture” as it’s known appears to have trickled into mainstream design and while the suits in Geneva would never admit it, the new Day-Date “emoji dial” is certainly reminiscent of a customized dial treatment than a traditional Rolex design.   Will we see a PVD FXD released from Tudor? Tudor’s playbook is simple.  It designs a watch, releases it to the masses and then iterates on that design with size, material, and color schemes.  This process has led some detractors to criticize the brand (Do we really need another Black Bay?)--but in the end, it works.  While selfishly I hope this remains one of the few “PVD FXDs,” it would be an easy win for Tudor to produce this design for the masses and I wouldn’t be surprised if we saw a version become available to the public in the coming years. A Few Thoughts To the uninitiated, this article may seem like a waste of time.  So, what, you painted your watch black?  Maybe. But it’s never just a watch.  When I look at this watch, I think of the people that made both it and W.O.E. a reality, and of all the times it’s been on my wrist.  No matter where this platform goes, it will always hold a special place because it is uniquely mine. There Are No Rules We are of the strong belief that there are no rules when it comes to timepieces.  If you want to polish your Rolex every few years to keep it looking shiny, do it.  If your dream is to modify your Patek to look like a Seiko, have fun.  If you want to put aftermarket diamonds on your AP to celebrate making it out of the trap, congratulations.   Don’t let conventional wisdom and outside pressure dictate how you enjoy this passion. Life’s too short to live in a box dictated by the watch industry suits or hype collectors pushing an agenda.  Have fun, use your tools, and don't take things too seriously.  -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our free weekly newsletter for further updates HERE.  Sincere appreciation to my dear friend and master of his craft James Rupley for capturing these pictures of the W.O.E. FXD and really bringing it to life for the community. Read Next: James Bond Should Wear a Rolex

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The CWC SBS - The Watch Of Choice For UK Special Forces

The CWC SBS - The Watch Of Choice For UK Special Forces

How The British Ministry Of Defence Went From Omega & Rolex To A Blacked-Out Diver From A Small British Brand Where plenty of brands look...

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How The British Ministry Of Defence Went From Omega & Rolex To A Blacked-Out Diver From A Small British Brand Where plenty of brands look to establish caché among collectors using overstated connections to the military, CWC is legit, having earned a passionate following among military end users and watch enthusiasts alike. CWC is one of the few analog watches still issued today, which sets it in a special category within the W.O.E. community. Within CWC’s collection, the SBS Diver Issue stands out as a watch with real street cred in our community, having been issued to a Tier One maritime special operations unit and still seeing active service within the British Military today. For a closer look at the dive watch of choice for UKSF, we asked Jonathan Hughes, an avid CWC fan and the operator of CWCaddict.com, for a brief overview of the history of the CWC SBS. SBS Sergeant Paul McGough wearing a CWC SBS at the battle for Qala-I Jangi Prison, Afghanistan in November 2001. By Jonathan Hughes Over the last 70 years, the British Ministry of Defence (MoD) has specified and ordered a variety of dive watches for specialist operators in the British military—starting with Rolex Submariners in the 1950s and early 1960s, the Omega Seamaster 300 in the late 1960s, the Sub again in the 1970s, and CWC from the 1980s onwards along with a smattering of Precistas. The latest iteration of the official MoD special ops diver’s watch, though, is a blacked-out, day-date, quartz diver from CWC. Officially known as the “UKSF” watch, it is commonly referred to as the “SBS” after the unit that first ordered it, the Special Boat Service. The modern CWC SBS Diver Issue. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Once an under-the-radar brand virtually unknown outside the British Military, CWC is now appreciated among enthusiasts as the “watch that replaced the MilSub” thanks to Jason Heaton’s excellent article in Hodinkee. The story goes that when the MoD was looking for a more cost-effective replacement for the Rolex Submariner, they turned to CWC, a business set up in 1972 by Ray Mellor exclusively to supply military and government contracts. By the end of that decade, CWC had produced and supplied around 40,000 general service watches, chronographs, stopwatches, and pocket watches, but no diver’s watches as of yet. A Royal Navy Clearance diver wearing a CWC in the 1980s. In 1980, CWC delivered its first batch of a new watch dubbed the Royal Navy Diver. Taking inspiration from the Omega Seamaster 300 with a 3-6-9 dial, a big triangle at 12, sword hands, fixed lug bars, and a fully graduated bezel, the CWC RN Diver was initially supplied with a Swiss automatic caliber in 1980 and 1981 before changing over to a quartz movement starting in 1983. The watches were issued to and worn by Royal Navy clearance divers, ships’ divers, and the Special Boat Service (SBS), with some of the earliest issued examples seeing service in the Falklands War of 1982. An early 1981 CWC RN Divers watch issued to the SBS. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) The widespread use of these watches by Royal Navy divers led to a request from the SBS for a specially designed version for their unique use case. The stainless steel cases were to be blackened to make them more stealthy and non-reflective for night-time operations. A day and date function was also added, intended to help keep track of the day whilst on longer missions. Legend has it that the black case was inspired by Royal Marines based in Hong Kong who had their steel dive watches black-coated locally, but as no Royal Navy divers have yet surfaced with a black coating, this is probably just a legend. When the UK Special Forces directorate was formed in 1987 to bring together the command of the SAS, the SRS (Special Reconnaissance Service), and the SBS, its name was changed from Special Boat Squadron to Special Boat Service. At this time, the specification for the watch that would become the CWC SBS was drawn up. A modern 1987 Reissue CWC SBS (left) and an original from 1988 (right)  pictured on top of the UKSF “Watch, Wrist, Divers, Day and Date Electronic” specification from 1987. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes/CWC) The specification for “Watch, Wrist, Divers, Day and Date Electronic” was signed in April 1987 by the officer commanding the Operational Research Unit of the Royal Marines in Poole, the home base of the SBS. It called for a watch “of rugged construction and able to withstand submersion, shock, and vibrations incident to service use in sea depths down to 300 metres”. It would have a case “manufactured from high-quality corrosion-resistant non-magnetic stainless steel finished to a durable matte black” and a “rotatable elapsed time bezel capable of being turned and set by hand. The outer edge of the bezel is to be knurled sufficiently to allow turning under wet conditions with a gloved hand.” Tritium was used for the luminous material on the hands and dial, and the dial was marked with a circled T to denote the presence of the radioactive luminescent material. Tests for water resistance, shock, impact resistance, and accuracy were all strictly defined. A 1988 CWC SBS with an acrylic bezel. (Photo Credit: CWC) The first run of 100 CWC SBS watches was delivered in 1988 and was assigned a new NATO Stock Number (NSN) of 6645-99-7995443 as well as being marked with 0552, the Royal Navy’s purchasing code at the time. In contrast to later models, the earliest examples featured an acrylic bezel insert, similar to the early automatic Royal Navy watches. The next batch wasn’t produced until 1992, with another 150 watches being supplied. The bezel was changed to a metal insert with wide hash marks similar in style to the previous acrylic bezel. 1992 CWC issue watches. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) Through the 1990s and into 2000, another 750 watches were supplied with the Royal Navy purchasing code changing from 0552 to 0555 from 1993 onwards. As well as the SBS, operators from the SAS were also issued these watches. CWC SBS watches were worn by British Special Forces in all the major conflicts of the next 20 years — in both Gulf Wars, and famously in Afghanistan by Sergeant Paul McGough at the battle for Qala-I Jangi Prison in November 2001. Special Boat Service operator Stephen Burns wearing an issued CWC SBS in Afghanistan. Around 2000, the MoD discontinued the old-school Royal Navy watch, which had been issued alongside the SBS throughout the 1990s, making the SBS the default-issued dive watch in the British Military. Another 500 SBS watches were ordered in 2001, delivered in three batches over the next two to three years with small variations in the bezel and caseback markings. These were issued more broadly to divers in the British Army’s Royal Engineers, showing the broader distribution beyond the special operations community. In 2005, another 250 watches were ordered specifically for the Royal Engineers—the first 100 were repurposed from a batch made in 2004 that had been marked with the Royal Navy’s 0555 code, some of which had been sold over the counter to civilians at Silvermans, a popular source of MoD surplus. In this batch, the 0555 was crossed out, and W10 (the code for the British Army) was marked above that. The second 150 were manufactured with W10 markings, the only time that a CWC dive watch has been factory-marked “W10”. Issued examples of the CWC SBS from 2005. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) With a total of around 1,600 issued watches between 1988 and 2005, an issued SBS from this era is not a common watch by any means but also not offensively rare if you are a collector looking to track one down. A good, legitimate issued SBS with the circled T on the dial can still be had for under £2,000 (around $2,500) although some years and variations are rarer and more sought after than others. In 2004 and 2008, batches of SBS watches that were identical to issued examples were also produced for the civilian marketplace, serving as an indistinguishable and cheaper alternative to the “real thing”. In fact, some of these “civvie” watches still ended up on the wrists of serving military and police, so you could argue there’s really no difference at all. A Royal Navy Clearance Diver wearing a CWC SBS. For over a decade, the MoD placed no further orders for CWCs, purchasing a mix of other civilian-spec dive watches, including several Citizen models and G-Shocks. But in 2016, orders for the CWC SBS were restarted, with some watches marked 2014 and 2015 being supplied as a trial batch and larger scale orders starting in 2017 and continuing today. Still used by the SBS, the watch is now also supplied to a broader range of units and roles, including to the Paras, the Royal Marines, Royal Navy specialists, the Royal Engineers, and the Submarine Service. A 2015 CWC SBS Issued to the MoD. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) Over the years, CWC has upgraded the SBS albeit in a subtle fashion. The luminous material that was once tritium is now Super-LumiNova. The crystal is now sapphire instead of mineral glass, and the bezel now rotates with 120 clicks instead of 60 clicks, small changes that add up to a more durable and premium-feeling watch. Still, the modern CWC SBS is more or less the same design as the original in 1988, and you can still buy one directly from CWC that is identical to the current issued examples. As mentioned in the Dispatch detailing the US Military’s relationship with Marathon, issued analog diver’s watches in active military service are few and far between. W.O.E.’s personal 1990's Tritium dial CWC SBS (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) For the British Military, the CWC SBS stands out as a design that was developed for elite special operators in the 1980s, earning a reputation as a dependable diving tool over the decades. Despite massive leaps and bounds in technology in many other areas, the CWC SBS—a straightforward quartz dive watch made in Switzerland—remains in active service, still worn and trusted in the field by the British Military. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Special Boat Service OMEGA Seamaster About The Author: Jonathan Hughes is a UK-based collector of British military and independent watches. His fascination with CWC started when he saw an early automatic Royal Navy dive watch at a London auction some years ago, and realised that a British company had been quietly supplying watches to the Ministry of Defence for many decades, at that time almost unknown to the wider watch collecting world. His CWC collection now numbers around 300 watches and clocks, and he founded and runs the cwcaddict.com website and blog. He is on Instagram at @jjhughes1969 and reposts CWC photos on @cwc_addict.

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French SpecOps, Tudor FXD, & The Commando Strap

French SpecOps, Tudor FXD, & The Commando Strap

How Zulu Alpha & W.O.E. Developed A Strap For The Commando Hubert’s Tudor Unit Watches In the Watches of Espionage space, the Tudor Pelagos FXD...

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How Zulu Alpha & W.O.E. Developed A Strap For The Commando Hubert’s Tudor Unit Watches In the Watches of Espionage space, the Tudor Pelagos FXD reigns supreme as the apex predator of dive watches. Developed in partnership with the Commando Hubert Combat Swimmers, the French equivalent to the US Navy SEALs, the FXD is an unapologetic tool watch with legible snowflake hands, a purpose-designed bezel, and fixed lugs. We have discussed Tudor’s extensive relationship with the military and intelligence community and the FXD is the latest example of the over seven-decade-long partnership.  A Commando Hubert operator tests a prototype of the Commando Strap on a training dive. The Commando Strap Earlier this year we were approached by an intermediary with a unique requirement: the French Commando Hubert Combat Swimmers wanted to design a strap for their FXDs. The request was simple. The operators required a practical dive strap that honored the legacy of the past, when the French Navy used parachute webbing to fashion in-field made straps for their Tudor MilSubs. The elastic strap would be used in the field and underwater on their “two line” Pelagos FXDs, as well as a commemorative watch that remains confidential. We immediately said yes and called our friends at Zulu Alpha Straps in the United Kingdom when we set about prototyping and field testing the strap based on feedback and requirements from the Combat Swimmers. The result is The Commando Strap, a sterile strap constructed with UK-produced elastic webbing and a unique French Rapco buckle system specifically requested by the operators. With Commando Hubert’s support, we are pleased to offer a version of this strap to the community, which is available HERE. A Tudor Pelagos FXD on a prototype Commando Strap made from vintage parachute elastic webbing. (Photo Credit: Zulu Alpha) The Marine Nationale & Tudor Partnership - A History Lesson In our community, heritage matters. The Commando Hubert Strap is heavily inspired by the longstanding relationship between Tudor and the French Navy, known as the Marine Nationale. This partnership, officially announced on May 4th, 2021 with the launch of the Pelagos FXD, celebrated nearly seven decades of collaboration. The origins of this relationship date back to 1956 when Tudor first supplied the Submariners to the Marine Nationale for field testing by their elite divers. These early watches, including the famed references 7922 and 7923, were lauded for their precision and water resistance. Over the next few decades, Tudor continually refined its designs to meet the exacting standards of naval operations. Notably, in 1958, the introduction of the reference 7924, or "Big Crown," marked a significant advancement with its new case and enhanced water resistance up to 200 meters. The evolution continued with the 7928 model, which introduced protective shoulders around the crown, a critical design enhancement for underwater activities. A Marine Nationale diver wearing a "Big Crown" Submariner in the late 1950s. The adaptation reached a pinnacle in the late 1960s with the debut of the "Snowflake" Submariners, designed specifically for improved visibility in murky underwater environments. These models featured Snowflake hands and later “Mercedes” hands and continued to be issued through various iterations until the mid-1990s. They have become both collectible and iconic in the world of dive and military watches. Marine Nationale Pelagos FXD “Two-Line” Pelagos FXD on a special dive strap used to connect swimming pairs. The original blue Pelagos FXD was developed in partnership with the French Commando Hubert, featuring a bidirectional countdown bezel, strap slots cut into the titanium case, and a specialized dive strap with a D-ring to connect swimming pairs. The blue dial and bezel were practical choices for underwater visibility but also a nod to the blue snowflake Marine Nationale-issued watches of the 1970s.  The main difference between the civilian and French SOF versions is the limited “two line” text on the dial of the unit versions and the unit versions are available in an LHD, or left-hand drive format.  Of note, these watches are not issued, but purchased by each operator individually. Commando Hubert Marine Nationale FXD paired with a Commando strap prototype. To mark the 100th graduation of the French Navy’s Diving School, Commando Hubert commissioned 100 Tudor watches outfitted with a special version of the Commando Strap produced using vintage material. Each of these straps is crafted from historical new old stock parachute webbing and presented in a box designed to mimic the look of a rebreather unit, paying homage to the diving equipment used by the Marine Nationale both then and now. Development Of The Commando Strap The Commando Strap utilizes a reproduction webbing and a special quick-release buckle made in France. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) The unit expressed a need for a durable strap that incorporated a robust buckle system capable of quick release, crucial for the high-stakes scenarios faced by navy divers. A French-made buckle leveraged for other gear items by French SOF became central to the design. Used in a number of applications by French SOF, these buckles were the perfect utilitarian way to fasten the new straps while offering quick-release functionality. The buckles, sourced directly from France as directed by the Commanding Officer of Commando Hubert, are very secure and have been tried and tested for many years in arduous environments. They are extremely dependable but will chip and patina with use, creating a unique and worn look. The open gate slider buckle that allows the Commando Strap to be used with fixed lugs was also sourced from the UK and executed in stainless steel at the Commando Hubert’s request. The Commando Hubert requested we source a specific French-made buckle familiar to the unit from their load-bearing equipment. The development process involved extensive prototyping to ensure the strap could be seamlessly affixed to watches with fixed lug bars, such as the Pelagos FXD, and adjustable so that they can be extended to fit over wetsuits for operations and training. The Commando Strap was rigorously field-tested by divers in extreme conditions to guarantee its long-term performance. Similar to the vintage straps used by the Marine Nationale, the Commando Strap is 21mm in width, capable of working well with both 20mm and 22mm lugs as well as fixed lugs without looking out of place. 21mm is the width of the traditional parachute straps. A diver from the Commando Hubert tests a prototype of the Commando Strap on his two-line Tudor Pelagos FXD. Aesthetic Appeal The Commando strap features elastic parachute webbing paired with French-made buckles, joined in a design that is both historically rich and functionally superior. The strap’s registered design system allows for easy adjustment and secure fastening, crucial for maintaining performance in the unpredictable environments encountered by military divers. The aesthetic of the strap complements the rugged functionality with a nod to its historical origins. Two versions of the strap were made, one with vintage French Navy parachute webbing and a reproduction version using new custom elastic webbing produced in the UK. The Commando Strap available now is constructed with reproduction webbing while a highly-limited drop utilizing vintage French parachute webbing will be announced at a later date. A diver from the Commando Hubert during prototyping for the Commando Strap. The webbing for the regular production straps was replicated meticulously by Darren at Zulu Alpha Straps in collaboration with a UK-based mill, ensuring that each piece is a faithful homage to the original material used by the French Navy. A Rich Legacy The Commando Hubert Strap is set to become a true collectible item among collectors and enthusiasts alike, bridging the gap between the past and the present, and forging a new chapter in the storied history of military use of wristwatches. Beyond its historical value, the strap is an embodiment of the “Use Your Tools” ethos, designed from the ground up in collaboration with elite military divers to create a useful tool to pair with any capable watch. The Commando Strap is made from UK-made reproduction webbing. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) The Commando Strap is more than an accessory—it is a piece of history crafted into a form that meets the modern-day demands of navy divers. As this strap wraps around the wrists of today's adventurers, it carries with it the legacy of innovation, a spirit of endurance, and a continuous commitment to excellence. This strap is not just a part of a watch; it is a vital instrument for those who believe in using their tools and honoring the legacy of those who came before us. BUY HERE: Zulu Alpha x W.O.E. Commando Strap If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.

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Special Forces, CIA, & A Seiko 6105

Special Forces, CIA, & A Seiko 6105

How A Tier One Cold War Operator Evolved Into A Watch Collector James Stejskal had a long and storied career in Army Special Forces, Detachment...

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How A Tier One Cold War Operator Evolved Into A Watch Collector James Stejskal had a long and storied career in Army Special Forces, Detachment A in Berlin, and with the Central Intelligence Agency, In this Dispatch, he shares some of his stories and the tools he used. Late October 1980 - Operation Storm Cloud (Iran II) Rehearsal I checked my watch. We were an hour into the flight, and I hoped the pilot knew where the hell we were because I had no clue. Somewhere over the panhandle of Florida at about 500’ AGL (Above Ground Level) was all I knew because it was black outside. I could see lights from small towns and occasionally the glow of some city far away to the south. We were flying a complex course, or at least the pilot was, wearing his NVGs. I had no intention of bothering him as there was no co-pilot—the port side controls had been removed from the OH-6 “Little Bird” to make room for my partner, Jon, with his collection of guns: a M-16, a M-79 grenade launcher, at least two pistols, and a bunch of ammo. In the back, there was just me and my HK21, a thousand rounds of linked 7.62, two LAWs (Light Anti-tank Weapons), and two Claymores on a rucksack frame, along with a 9mm Walther P-5 and my trusty CZ-75 as back-up. There were only three of us on board—we needed room for at least one passenger on the way out. A General Issue (GI) Hamilton similar to the one worn by the author during training for Operation Stormcloud. I looked at my Hamilton again, the glowing numbers and hands told me it had been exactly two minutes since the last time I checked. The ride was smooth. I watched the pilot, his face barely illuminated with the green light from the goggles, and imagined how tense he must be flying in formation with 11 other helicopters. I knew the others were close as I could occasionally see the sweep of their blades disturbing the air just beyond our own rotors. I was tense, but as a passenger, there’s nothing you can do but trust these guys, the best pilots in the world. This was our final, live-fire rehearsal. If we got the go-ahead, we’d soon be heading for the Middle East on a C-5A loaded with all of us and our Little Birds. The pilot came over the intercom, “Stand by. We’re going in.” Safeties came off as I quickly checked the issued Hamilton once more. It told me what I wanted to know. “On time, On target.” Task Force 158 Helos (OH-6) practicing for Operation Stormcloud in 1980. (Photo Credit: James Stejskal) The helo shuddered as it flared into a hover some 50 feet above the ground. The clouds parted and our target was illuminated by the full moon. I picked out my targets, and pulled the trigger. To the right and left I saw the sky light up as orange strings of tracer fire descended from each bird in line as we settled to the ground. Operation Stormcloud had been unleashed. — I never much cared about watches growing up. It was only at the age of 16, after I had earned my civilian SCUBA diver rating, that I started considering what kind of watch I needed. The dive instructor made us understand that divers had to have a good timepiece—accurate, waterproof, and pressure-resistant instruments—to time their dives. My first dive watch was a Swiss-made Doxa, and the only way I paid for it was with an employee discount from the dive shop where I worked plus a lot of overtime. A vintage Doxa Sub 300 similar to the one worn by the author. (Photo Credit: Analog:Shift) I managed to lose that watch not on a dive per se but testing my bravery by jumping into the spillway of a dam. Kingsley Dam on Lake McConaughy in Nebraska was the second largest hydraulic-fill dam in the world when it was completed in 1941. When one of the Park Rangers told us the water comes out below the dam at over 100 miles per hour, I was prompted to say, “Hold my beer,” and test it by leaping in. I survived but on my third jump, the Doxa decided we would part ways and it disappeared into the tumultuous waters. I suspect it’s still down there with the catfish somewhere. The Death of a Doxa. (Photo Credit: James Stejskal) Moving along, I evidently either failed to learn from my experiences or I just needed more adventures. I signed up for Army Special Forces after I convinced myself that a college education wasn’t getting me anywhere. During selection and training, I continuously heard the mantra that to be truly Special Forces you had to have a Randall Knife, a star-sapphire ring, and a Rolex. But as a “Spec 4” Light Weapons Leader on my first A-Team, the only thing I could manage was the Randall Knife and that was only because my Dad gave his to me—the same one my Mom gave him before he went to Europe in 1944 to visit Adolf. So I went without the Rolex. Most of my old photographs show me without any watch at all. Members of the 39th Special Forces Detachment or “Det A” during ski training in the Alps. Then I was posted to a classified unit in Berlin, Germany. Called “Detachment A” or “Det A,” it was in reality the 39th Special Forces Detachment. We had some interesting missions back then. Urban unconventional warfare (UW) was one, which was essentially getting ready for World War III and conducting stay-behind operations in Berlin and the DDR (East Germany) much like what the Office of Strategic Services (OSS) did in the last World War. Our other mission was Counter-Terrorism (CT), which we picked up in 1975 as the U.S. European Command’s CT Force. You need to remember this was in the nascent stages of America’s war on terror, and we were developing what would become the tactics, techniques, and procedures that seem so common today. A Seiko 6105-8110 similar to the one purchased by the author after attending Special Forces Underwater Operations School. (Photo Credit: Analog:Shift) With access to the Post Exchange now and having completed the rather arduous Special Forces Underwater Operations School, I decided a new dive watch was in order. I considered a Rolex but it cost around $400 in the PX. So, on the recommendation of a teammate, I decided to buy a Seiko. It was a Model 6105-8110. I seem to remember it cost me around $150—still a pretty hefty sum when you’re only earning around $600 a month, with jump pay, and after taxes and buying a lot of beer downtown. But I was a sergeant and could almost afford it. I know the Rolex would have been a good investment but with my luck… well, read on. And, in retrospect, the Rolex might have attracted too much attention. Even so, my Seiko got more use ensuring I was inside the 4-minute window for an asset meeting on a dark street, making a split-second car pick-up, maybe figuring out the burn rate for a demolition fuse, or synchronizing operations when a radio couldn’t be used. Monitoring my dive time was more of a secondary role. The author preparing a steel cutting charge on the range with his Seiko on the wrist. (Photo Credit: Bob Hopkins) From time to time, Det A operators would ride on what were called “Tours” with the U.S. Military Liaison Mission (USMLM). Essentially, it was a monitoring organization that kept tabs on the Warsaw Pact in East Germany while the Soviets (SOXMIS) kept tabs on us in West Germany. The Brits and the French had their own versions of the mission (BRIXMIS and MMFL, respectively). Keeping accurate time and knowing your location was paramount on what could be a dangerous mission in the enemy’s backyard. Artist’s rendering of Major Arthur D. "Nick" Nicholson, Jr, who was killed while conducting intelligence operations with the U.S. Military Liaison Mission (USMLM) in the DDR. One American and one French officer were killed while on tours in the DDR, and several others were badly injured. The photo shows one of my comrades on a tour in East Germany. He was a MACV-SOG (Military Assistance Command, Vietnam – Studies and Observations Group) veteran, had good taste in watches, and was incidentally also the guy who told me to buy a Seiko. I wore the watch everywhere, in training, on jumps, and on all our missions except one. In late 1979, we were put on alert for a mission that would come to be known as Operation Eagle Claw. For that mission, we were all issued olive-green Hamiltons, the watch I wore in the above rehearsal. Det A soldier on a USMLM Tour near the Polish Border wearing a Seiko 6105 and a Waltham (WCC) wrist compass. (Photo Credit: A USMLM Member) Throughout the rest of 1979 and most of 1980, our training was almost completely oriented around direct action operations—the tactics we would need to enter Iran and bring out the American hostages being held there. We were working in concert with another, perhaps more famous unit from Fort Bragg that I won’t mention here other than to say that they outnumbered us 8:1. The “other outfit” had responsibility for freeing over 50 hostages at the American Embassy in Tehran, while our smaller force was to take down the Iranian Foreign Ministry and exfiltrate three senior American diplomats being held there. Hard doesn’t describe the preparation for the mission. But it was intense and it was fun. Day and night Close Quarter Battle (CQB) training, helicopter and vehicle ops, and explosive entries. With no guardrails and an open budget, in a very short time period, our 40-some soldiers used more small-arms ammunition than the yearly allotment for the entire Berlin Brigade. The author wearing his Seiko during CQB training. (Photo Credit: James Stejskal) When Eagle Claw went down on the 24th and 25th of April in 1980, only 13 members of “Det A” participated. The rest of us got to sit it out in Berlin, waiting interminably for what turned out very badly when helicopter after helicopter failed and the op was scrubbed. In the withdrawal, eight Americans died, but as a group of British soldiers said, “At least [they] had the guts to try.” For the rest of that year, we rehearsed an up-gunned version of “Eagle Claw” called “Stormcloud” but it was ultimately scrubbed just before Ronald Reagan was inaugurated. I think my GI Hamilton went back to the S-4. The author wearing his General Issue Hamilton at Elgin Air Force Base in 1980. (Photo Credit: James Stejskal) Diving wasn’t in the cards much after that, but I was still traveling extensively overseas. One thing I learned was that wearing an expensive watch in “Third World” countries can lead to some undesired attention, not from the authorities, but from the criminal elements. I would often swap out my “good” watch for my field watch when “going downtown.” Losing a simple Timex Expedition was preferable to losing my treasured Seiko. I went through several Expeditions because they made great gifts for admiring locals who might prove helpful at a later point in time. I failed to follow that rule just once and it was curtains for the watch. My Seiko met the end of its days in Somalia when I had the unfortunate experience of being in an Isuzu Trooper when we rolled over a Soviet anti-tank mine. I lost a good friend that day but three of us survived. When I awoke on board the USS Tripoli, I found I had also lost my Seiko. I served a while longer and then punched out with 23 years after I got married. Not too long after that, I was recruited by what we in the military euphemistically called the “Other Government Agency” or OGA. For the next 15 years, I was practicing what some call “God’s Work” doing interesting things in interesting places around the world. The author wearing his Timex Expedition in the Bush. (Photo Credit: WLN) All the while, I admired the upper-echelon watches but couldn’t commit to buying one. Instead, I relied on my Timex Expeditions, which changed as often as I gave them away. That is until one day, my wife gave me a TAG. Officially it’s a TAG Heuer Link WAT1111, and it’s special because it’s the only retirement gift I received—plus it was for my birthday. It’s my “EDC/go-to” watch, although I have a couple of stand-ins for rough duty days. The author’s TAG Heuer Link is now his go-to everyday watch. Once I retired, I moved on to different pastures; consulting a bit, delivering talks to active duty folks on everything from Cold War history to a bit of spook stuff. I still do that but I also have become an author. Now I put my love of history and adventure to good use by telling the true and almost true stories of special operators like T.E. Lawrence of Arabia (who wore an Omega Chronograph, by the way) all the way up to my comrades who participated in Operation Eagle Claw as I do in my history MISSION IRAN. My fiction, or faction as I call it, tells the stories of Special Forces operators during the Cold War and after in my novels The Snake Eater Chronicles. Timing is often critical in these tales and interesting watches come into play quite often. Senator Ted Kennedy speaks with Medal of Honor recipient and then-Major Paris Davis during a visit to Vietnam in the late 1960s. Davis was a Rolex guy. (Photo Credit: Davis Family) The last picture is an important memory for me. One day last year, I was at the National Museum of the U.S. Army with a friend and found one of the displays closed. A docent told me the museum was interviewing a recent Medal of Honor winner, Colonel Paris Davis. I decided to wait until he was finished because Davis had been my commander when I served in the 10th Special Forces Group in the mid-1970s. I wasn’t sure if he’d remember me—I had changed a bit—but as he departed the exhibit hall, I met him with a salute. I told him who I was and a smile appeared on his face as he said my nickname. He had remembered. We had a nice chat and as you can see, he knows what watch to wear. He has his Rolex while I have my TAG. The author reuniting with his commander, Medal of Honor Awardee Colonel Paris Davis, at the National Museum of the US Army. The author wears his TAG Heuer while Colonel Davis wears a Rolex GMT Master. (Photo Credit: R. Pierce Reid) Sometimes, I find myself thinking about my old time-pieces. I’ve considered finding a vintage Seiko 6150 or even a GI-issue watch to replace them, but then I realized they wouldn’t have the same meaning as my originals. The one watch I’m closest to now—and really, the only one I need—is the TAG my wife gifted me. A couple of the author's books, some mementos from his service, and his TAG Heuer watch. (Photo Credit: James Stejskal) About The Author: James Stejskal is a uniquely qualified novelist and historian backed by 35 years of service with US Army Special Forces and the Central Intelligence Agency. He is the author of Special Forces Berlin: Clandestine Cold War Operations of the US Army's Elite, 1956-1990 and Masters of Mayhem: Lawrence of Arabia and the British Military Mission to the Hejaz. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Vietnam MACV-SOG Seikos: Setting the Record Straight *As a disclaimer, as Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases. When you click on links to various books in this article and make a purchase, this can result in Watches of Espionage earning a commission. If you’re interested in these books and want to make a purchase using these links, we appreciate your support.

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Digital Watches Of The Global War On Terror

Digital Watches Of The Global War On Terror

From G-Shock To Garmin, Digital Watches Have Served At The Forefront Of Modern Warfare Whether watch nerds like it or not, digital tool watches (D.T.W.)...

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From G-Shock To Garmin, Digital Watches Have Served At The Forefront Of Modern Warfare Whether watch nerds like it or not, digital tool watches (D.T.W.) have usurped their analog and mechanical siblings in the vast majority of military, law enforcement, and intelligence scenarios. Looking beyond the prominent subset of watch enthusiasts in our community who embody the “Use Your Tools” ethos by way of any number of “luxury” timepieces, most regular humans in need of a capable watch look to attainable digital watches from a few prominent brands including G-Shock, Garmin, Suunto, and others For watches associated with the military, no crucible provides better proof of utility than sustained service in combat, with some of history’s most legendary designs influenced by their use in global conflicts. Where the Vietnam War served as a proving ground for legends including the Rolex and Tudor Submariner, certain Seiko models, and the Tornek-Rayville TR-660, modern digital watches in many ways came into their own during the Global War On Terror (GWOT), a period spanning two decades after the terrorist attacks on September 11th, 2001. A US Army Special Forces operator wearing a Suunto Vector in Afghanistan during the GWOT. During combat and intelligence operations in Iraq, Afghanistan, and numerous other theaters, digital tool watches evolved from the basic G-Shock models that were in many respects unchanged from the original 1983 DW-5000C to the full suite of modern tactical and outdoor-oriented smartwatches from brands like Garmin and Suunto. In this Dispatch, we’ll discuss some of the most impactful digital watches utilized by SpecOps, military, and intelligence professionals during the Global War On Terror, leaning into photographic evidence, anecdotal examples from members of the community, and records detailing military and government purchase orders. If you’re into LARPing—you know who you are—or just solid digital watches, most of these models are still readily available and impressively inexpensive. Casio F91W - $23 A model we once called “The Preferred Watch Of Terrorists”, the legendary Casio F91W is among the most successful watches of all time, having sold over 120 million units since its debut in 1993, typically for well under $20 a pop. In contrast to many of the watches to follow, the F91W is known for its use on both sides of the GWOT including not only US and coalition forces but also insurgents and terrorists including none other than Usama bin Laden right up until his brief meeting with SEAL Team Six in 2011. A female TEO operator of Germany’s Kommando Spezialkräfte (KSK) wearing a Casio F91W in 2021. In addition to its use on the wrist, the F91W also served as what is known in national security circles as “dual-use technology,” something that at an initial glance has a legitimate civilian utility but can also be used for military or paramilitary applications, i.e. as a timer for an IED, pipe bomb, or shaped charge. Perhaps held back by its smaller 35.2mm wide by 38.2mm long case, poor backlight, and limited water resistance, the F91W never became a popular option for official military procurement but has still served as the cheapest thing that works, easily purchased at the PX or on the economy by countless service members—and terrorists—over the years. Casio Pro-Trek - $280-500 A USAF Pararescueman of the 23rd Special Tactics Squadron wears a Casio Pro-Trek while conducting in-water training in 2012. Technically unrelated to the G-Shock beyond having the same parent organization in Casio, Pro-Trek also has one of the most impressive service records of any digital watch during the Global War On Terror. Having been selected by countless special operators and conventional troops, the Pro-Trek takes a small step from being just a basic timepiece to something more with integrated “ABC” or altimeter, barometer, and compass functions that—at least in a pinch—assist with way-finding in austere combat situations without requiring Bluetooth or other network connectivity that could compromise the wearer. Retired US Navy SEAL Dave Hall wearing a Casio Pro-Trek in Afghanistan. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) Despite only being rated to 100 meters of water resistance in most instances, the Pro-Trek was still often the watch of choice for amphibious military members including retired US Navy SEAL Dave Hall who often wore a Pro-Trek on his deployments to Iraq and Afghanistan. Digging into government records, Pro-Trek references PAW 1500-1V, PAG240-1, PRW2500-1A, and 130-1T were all purchased through government channels during the GWOT, mostly by Wright-Patterson Air Force Base, which is a major testing and supply hub for the broader US Air Force. G-Shock From left to right, the DW5600-1V, DW6600-1V, and DE6900-1V are some of the most commonly purchased G-Shock models by military organizations. There was, as you’d expect, no shortage of G-Shocks used by service members during the GWOT. Dating back to 1983, the G-Shock revolutionized the watch industry by presenting a level of durability that was previously unthinkable for watches. With a basic case concept conceived by iconic Casio designer Kikuo Ibe after seeing a child bouncing a rubber ball, the original parameters for the G-Shock called for “Triple 10” resistance, meaning the watch needed to be able to survive a fall from 10 meters, resist water pressure to 10 atmospheres (100 meters), and provide 10 years of battery life. SOCCOM purchased 1000 units of G-Shock model G9000-1V in 2014 despite the reference’s lack of an NSN. (Photo Credit: US Navy) Catching on with military, law enforcement, and emergency professionals, the G-Shock has evolved over the years to include a wide variety of smartwatch-style functions. Still, while other more complicated G-Shock models have been purchased on a unit basis, only four basic references have been awarded an NSN or NATO Stock Number, making them readily available for military procurement and issue. All four also saw active service during the GWOT, as did non-NSN models including the Mudman (G9000-1V), which was ordered by the United States Special Operations Command (USSOCOM) in 2014 in separate orders of 400 and 600 units. DW5600-1V - $75 A USAF Combat Controller wearing a DW5600-1V in Afghanistan. A direct descendant of the original G-Shock, the DW5000C, the DW5600-1V was introduced in 1996. Often the least expensive G-Shock on the market at around $40, the 5600 provides one of the smallest and least obtrusive wearing experiences of any Shock, coming in at 48.9 by 42.8mm wide by 48.9mm long by 13.4mm thick. Given its entry-level price point, the suite of functions is simple by modern digital standards but does provide just about everything the basic military member could ever need while also offering G-Shock’s legendary durability. In the GWOT’s early years, this was the most commonly spotted watch on members of the military and intelligence services, even playing a role in CIA’s early anti-terror efforts in Afghanistan. DW6600-1V - Discontinued A young Chris Kyle on deployment wearing the Casio G-Shock DW6600-1V. Commonly associated with Chris Kyle, the US Navy SEAL who inspired 2014’s American Sniper, the DW6600-1V will always be considered the GWOT Navy SEAL watch. Beyond the utility, the DW6600 also became part of Team Guy culture. According to former SEAL Rob Huberty, “One of my proudest days at BUDS was when I went from a naked wrist to an issued G-Shock. In SEAL training, you aren’t allowed to wear a watch until you earn it. We weren’t allowed to wear our uniforms in town, but when I saw Team Guys in Coronado, their sleeve tattoos and G-Shocks were a dead giveaway.” Former US Navy SEAL, Harvard-educated medical doctor, and current astronaut Jonny Kim wearing a DW6600-1V on deployment in Iraq. From a use-case perspective, the DW6600-1V was a near-perfect choice for the SEALs, with the watch’s stopwatch feature working as a dive timer, a powerful backlight with a large button, and more durability than most could ever need. Some even say the little fin-shaped indices on the display could be used to time fin kicks during underwater navigational scenarios. Surprisingly, the classic version of the DW6600-1V has been discontinued since 2010, with Naval Special Warfare Command placing what was likely its final order for this specific reference in 2009 referencing a SEAL Qualification Training (SQT) supply list. The similarly styled DW6900-1V has largely taken its place, but we would argue a reissue is in order. DW6900-1V - $85 A DW6900-1V in its military-specific packaging shows the NSN for “Watch, Wrist” at the top. (Photo Credit: Reddit) The successor to the DW6600, the 6900-series swapped the fin-shaped elements on its display for a trio of tiny circles visually indicating the passing seconds while maintaining the proven case and strap format. Another commonly purchased item across the US Military, the basic DW6900 now seems to be one of the defacto purchase orders for any unit or organization looking for a solid digital watch including members of the SpecOps community. A USAF Pararescuemen wears a DW6900-1V in 2015. (Photo Credit: US Air Force) DW9052-1V - $75 A Force Recon Marine wearing a DW9052-1V in 2013. (Photo Credit: US Marine Corps) A G-Shock more commonly spotted during the second half of the GWOT is the DW9052-1V, which provides several key differences compared to the aforementioned models. For one, the 9052 utilizes larger square plastic buttons that are significantly easier to operate with gloves while also having hinged lugs more like a traditional watch, meaning the interface between the case and strap isn’t as stiff as other G-Shocks. Like the 6600 and 6900, the 9052 provides an easily accessed front light button. Despite being initially launched in 1995 and relaunched in 2011, the 9052 series does not appear to have found widespread military use until the tail end of the GWOT on terror, now being commonly spotted on the wrist of select military divers in particular, which stands to reason as the 9052 was a standard issue gear item for students attending a variety of diving courses at the Naval Diving and Salvage Training Center (NDSTC) for years. For a complete look at the US Military’s history with G-Shock, click HERE. Other Brands: Beneath the long shadow cast by Casio and the G-Shock collection in particular, several other brands made inroads into the digital tool watch space during the GWOT, first with brands like Timex and Suunto and later with Garmin as smartwatches entered the tactical fold. Timex Ironman Classic - $63 The humble Timex Ironman was issued by CIA to partner forces during the GWOT. Often playing second fiddle to celebrated G-Shock models, the Timex Ironman deserves its place in any discussion of digital timing during the GWOT, having been used not only by conventional military forces but also by US intelligence agencies, including CIA, which issued the Ironman to Afghan partner forces. Dating back to 1984 and the Timex Triathlon, the Ironman name was officially introduced in 1986 after Timex obtained the rights to the growing Ironman franchise. Designed to be rugged enough for swimming, biking, and running in the ridiculous sport of Ironman-distance triathlons, the Timex Ironman found its place among military and NatSec circles by virtue of its attainable price point, legible display, useful timing functions, and stout build. Former US Navy SEAL Jocko Willink is known for wearing Timex Ironman watches before, during, and after the GWOT. We have spotted Ironman watches on the wrists of US Navy SEALs and other members of the SpecOps community including former SEAL Jocko Willink who wore a Timex Ironman before and during the GWOT and continues to wear the humble digital watch despite his success as an author, podcaster, and leadership guru. We assume Jocko thinks the watch is “GOOD”. Suunto Vector - Discontinued A US Army soldier calls in an airstrike while wearing a Suunto Vector in Afghanistan in 2009. (Photo Credit: US Army) Another outdoors-oriented watch with ABC functionality that saw no shortage of action in Iraq and Afghanistan was the Suunto Vector, which was produced between 1998 and 2015 almost without change, a testament to the original design. With an Achilles heel of only 30 meters of water resistance, the Vector was still a great choice for urban and desert warfare, with its integrated altimeter being especially useful for mountain operations. Recognizing the trend, Suunto, a Finland-based brand, leaned into the watch’s popularity among US military members, creating an olive green variant that nails the early 2000s “tacticool” look on the head. Multiple orders for the Vector were placed by Wright-Patterson Air Force Base in 2014 and 2015, with another interesting order coming from the FBI in 2021 (Presumably for SWAT Teams). Suunto Core Classic - $219 A US Navy SEAL wearing a Suunto Core on deployment. Where the Suunto Vector was in all ways intended as a mountaineering watch for REI nerds that grew to become a military favorite, it felt like Suunto knew what they were doing when they introduced the Core in 2007. While the new watch still technically only provided 30 meters of water resistance, Suunto obviously felt strongly enough about the watch’s amphibious ability to engineer a depth gauge function in addition to the standard ABC capabilities the brand is known for. Intriguingly, the depth gauge was only rated to 33 feet (10 meters), which happens to be the maximum operating depth of a pure oxygen rebreather such as the LAR V used by US Navy SEALs. A coincidence? Perhaps, but conspiracy theories are a lot more fun. What is for sure is the Core’s appeal among SpecOps units, with multiple orders placed for the model by Air Force Special Operations Command (AFSOC) and USSOCOM starting in 2010. 5.11 H.R.T. Titanium - Discontinued A young Chris Craighead wearing the seldom-seen 5.11 H.R.T. Titanium watch. (Photo Credit: Chris Craighead) Despite making a bunch of quality tactical gear, 5.11 is not known for its watches. That said, the analog-digital HRT model did have its day during the Global War On Terror, even issued to and worn by “Obi-Wan Nairobi” AKA Chris Craighead who wore the watch on deployment in his SAS days (but not his famed single-handed efforts in Kenya). That said, from what we can tell, 5.11’s watches were not formally purchased by the US Government and they aren’t commonly spotted in our research, which also indicates the watches did not obtain the reputation for durability possessed by G-Shock and other names on this list. Garmin A US Navy SEAL conducts training with a Garmin Fenix on the wrist. (Photo Credit: US Navy) When it comes to modern military watches, the new elephant in the room is Garmin, though the brand is not without its complications when it comes to modern warfare. Garmin also has a long-standing history with the US Military, having provided a wide variety of GPS-related equipment throughout the GWOT and today. An evolution of the “smartwatch” genre kicked off by Apple’s Apple Watch in 2015, Garmin’s outdoors and tactical-oriented collection of watches provides more functionality than a Timex or G-Shock could ever dream of, including active heart rate monitoring, GPS, an incredible array of sport and fitness specific functions, and in some cases, even parachuting and ballistics-specific capabilities. The suite of tech is no doubt compelling, but also Bluetooth or otherwise “connected” watches run the risk of being utilized to track or monitor troops in a theater of war or intelligence officers. Still, Garmin’s fitness and tactical smartwatches have been widely ordered through government channels over the last 10 years or so including much of the end of the GWOT. Garmin Instinct - $300-500 Pictured on an Indian Marine Commando Force (MARCOS) operator during training with an East Coast-based SEAL Team, the Garmin Instinct has become popular with military members around the world since its inception in the closing years of the GWOT. (Photo Credit: US Navy) Now in its second iteration, the Instinct, originally released in 2018, is where Garmin’s GPS-enabled smartwatch collection kicks off. The case, strap, user interface, and display are simpler compared to more premium models, but you still get GPS capabilities that sync with multiple satellite systems, all of the ABC functions you could ever want, solar charging on some models, and apps for sports, with the watch also conforming to the 810 Military Standard for shock and water resistance. While it was only around at the tail end of the GWOT and does not appear to have been purchased en masse through official channels, the Instinct often appears on the wrist of military members during the final years of the conflict. Garmin Fenix - $640-1,000 A Garmin Fenix on the wrist of a US Air Force Pararescueman in 2019. (Photo Credit: US Air Force) The most widely purchased wrist-worn Garmin during the GWOT and now in its seventh iteration, the Fenix was launched in 2012 as an outdoors smartwatch with an impressive array of fitness functions in addition to GPS capabilities. A search of government records reveals dozens of orders for Garmin Fenix models starting with an AFSOC order in 2015 with continuous follow-up orders from the Air Force’s SpecOps community ever since. Further orders for Fenix models have come from the US Army’s Air Combat Command, 855th Aircraft Maintenance Squadron, and the Defense Logistics Agency (DLA). Beyond these official orders, many other small-scale orders were likely placed through civilian channels with government funds. Garmin Tactix - $1,000-1,600 A US Navy SEAL wears a Garmin Fenix or Tactix during training operations. (Photo Credit: US Navy) Essentially a special version of the Fenix, the Garmin Tactix takes the GPS and fitness functions and adds features specific to use in tactical or military environments including a display mode intended for use with night vision, ballistics calculators, and a jumpmaster mode for parachuting. As you’d expect, the Tactix is popular among military organizations, having been ordered by AFSOC as early as 2015, certain US Marine Corps units including Marine Corps Air Station Cherry Point, and the Navy Experimental Diving Unit (NEDU) over the years. Whether Digital Or Analog, Use Your Tools Whether we like it or not, most modern operators trust digital tool watches—even Apple Watches—over Swiss luxury brands. While we often profile Intelligence Officers and Special Operators wearing Seikos and fine Swiss timepieces, the fact is that the majority of practitioners leverage DTWs to complete their tasks. From G-Shock to Suunto to Timex to Garmin or even the Apple Watch, digital watches served as tools on every front of the Global War On Terror, the most impactful global conflict in modern times, evolving along the way to include smartwatch-style capabilities that, while challenging in some respects, provide a modern soldier or intelligence asset with an unprecedented level of technical capability. As watch enthusiasts, we would perhaps like to see more analog mechanical watches on the wrists of modern military members. Still, in many cases, digital watches are simply a better tool for the job. Whether you’re wearing an Omega Seamaster or a Casio F91W, as long as you live the “Use Your Tools” ethos, we’re here for you. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: DARPA’s Take on the Next Generation of Military Watches

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The Dive Watch - Everything You Need To Know

The Dive Watch - Everything You Need To Know

Going In-Depth With History’s Most Popular & Impactful Tool Watch Despite the relative lack of popularity of scuba diving, the dive watch prevails as one...

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Going In-Depth With History’s Most Popular & Impactful Tool Watch Despite the relative lack of popularity of scuba diving, the dive watch prevails as one of the most popular categories in watchmaking while also claiming several of history’s most recognizable designs including the Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Watches intended for diving have also been worn by a variety of sketchy individuals at the forefront of history-shaping events including the pioneering Panerai models utilized by the commando frogmen of the Italian Decima Flottiglia MAS in WWII, Doxa Subs on the wrists of Jacques Cousteau and his team as they pioneered underwater filmmaking, and even a modern Rolex Submariner worn by a US Navy SEAL on the raid that killed Usama bin Laden back in 2011. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) What Is A Dive Watch? With all of that being said, we all have a general idea of what a dive watch is and does, but what exactly constitutes a dive watch? Which functions, formats, or capabilities are essential, and which are marketing fluff? In this Dispatch, backed by my experience as a commercial diver and professional watch nerd, we’ll go in-depth with the anatomy of a dive watch, presenting the key elements that add up to a competent dive timer whether or not you intend to use the watch for its intended purpose. An elapsed time bezel is also great for grilling steaks. What Is Water Resistance? In 2019, a custom Omega Ultra Deep descended to Challenger Deep, the ocean’s deepest point, strapped to the outside of Victor Vescovo’s submersible, Limiting Factor. (Photo Credit: Omega) Let’s get the obvious out of the way. A dive watch is only as good as its ability to resist the sometimes massive pressures and constant risk of flooding encountered in the undersea environment. Most dive watches achieve their water resistance with screwed sealing surfaces and gaskets which are necessary because the pressure at depth can be enormous. For every foot of depth encountered by a watch in seawater, .445 pounds of pressure is applied per square inch. Divers are historically bad at math so the equation for calculating pressure on the fly is typically expressed as “half the depth” meaning that if you’re diving to a relatively pedestrian 100 feet, your watch will encounter approximately 50 (or exactly 44.5) pounds per square inch of pressure, enough to make the water really want to get inside your watch. The deeper you go, the tougher it gets for your watch’s tender insides to stay dry. Therefore, the vast majority of watches intended for diving are rated to at least 200 meters, but many are rated to more extreme depths including 3,900 meters (12,800 feet) for the Rolex Deepsea or an even more obnoxious 6,000 meters (20,000 feet) for the Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep. A 100-meter-rated watch like the Casio AE1200WH World Time is typically fine for casual scuba diving. (Photo Credit: Benjamin Lowry) Can I Wear My Watch Underwater? While we’re here, let’s quickly dispel a couple of common myths. I wouldn’t take a 30 or 50-meter-rated watch diving on purpose, but a watch rated to 100 meters is often fine for casual scuba diving assuming it’s relatively new and/or has been pressure tested recently. As a disclaimer, there is still an element of risk. 100 meters is a rating, not a promise of a watch's ability to dive to that depth, and the majority of 100-meter-rated watches haven't been tested in water during production. That said, modern watches are generally more capable than you'd think, and I’ve worn several 100-meter watches including the Seiko 5 Sports SSK001 and Casio AE1200WH for shallow diving profiles without issues. For what it’s worth, the ISO 6425 standard for a “professional” dive watch that we’ll get to in a bit only requires 100 meters of water resistance. In most cases, 200 meters of water resistance is more than you could ever need. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley)   For whoever is already typing something in all caps about “dynamic” pressure saying you need a watch rated to 200 meters to go to the pool because more pressure is applied as you move your arm and watch through the water, stop. It is technically true that a watch in motion underwater experiences more pressure than it would if it were static, but many nerds who are good at math have calculated the change as minute, the equivalent of a fraction of a foot to a few feet of depth in many instances, and functionally insignificant as it relates to the water resistance rating of your watch. Measuring Elapsed Time (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Another crucial element of any good dive watch is its ability to manage elapsed time, a function typically utilized to track “bottom time” (defined by the US Navy as the elapsed time from when you leave the surface until you begin your ascent) but also shorter periods including safety or decompression stops. In the days before diving computers, this capability  was the single most important job carried out by the dive watch, with the bottom time being used in conjunction with a diver’s maximum depth in calculating a diver’s decompression profile. Today, this important work is usually carried out by a diving computer, but being able to measure elapsed time is still a core aspect of what constitutes a dive watch. Typically, managing elapsed time is carried out with a rotating bezel measuring from zero to 60 minutes that is typically unidirectional, meaning it can only be accidentally rotated to express less bottom time as opposed to more, which could land a diver in proverbial hot water concerning their gas supply or profile. In many cases, dive bezels are also marked with finer one-minute intervals for the first fifteen minutes. You’ll hear different theories as to why, but I have always understood it was to precisely measure smaller amounts of time whether for decompression stops or individual legs of underwater swims in navigation scenarios. A U.S. Navy Explosive Ordnance Disposal (EOD) Technician wearing a G-Shock DW6900. (Photo Credit: US Navy) To be clear, elapsed time measurement by no means needs to take place by way of an external bezel. Still standard issue for US Navy Divers and amphibious special operators, a G-Shock’s stopwatch function is amazing for this task, as are certain internal bezels as long as they don’t utilize a screw-down crown in their operation. Diving chronographs can also be used, but the additional pushers often increase the potential water ingress and wouldn’t be my first choice. There are exceptions to every rule, but generally speaking, fewer case openings in your dive watch is a good thing. Legibility For great dive watch dials less is often more. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) After water resistance and being able to track elapsed time, another central pillar in any good dive watch design is a dial and handset that is legible in all conditions including total darkness. For the dial and hands, high contrast and simple geometric shapes seem to work best. Examples like the Rolex Submariner, Seiko 6309, Benrus Type I, Tudor Snowflake, Omega Seamaster 300, and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms all have designs that have stood the test of time utilizing white luminescent indices and hands in simple geometric forms over a black or navy blue primary dial surface. The best dive watch dials are equally visible day or night. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In the arena of legibility, being straightforward and even leaning into minimalism is a good thing. Lasting bright luminescent material is also important as is the ability to quickly orient the dial in total darkness or murky underwater environments. Having luminescent material on the bezel at least at twelve but preferably also elsewhere is also key as the importance of measuring elapsed time doesn’t disappear in the dark. Despite breaking some of the design guidelines listed here, some dial designs just work. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) There are exceptions to the monochromatic less-is-more rule including the orange “Professional” dial on Doxa Sub models as well as the busier display on the Marathon GSAR, both of which are excellent and highly legible underwater, but the concepts of simple geometric forms and high contrast are great places to start. For further proof of capability, always look to military dive watch designs for a trustworthy indicator of subsea utility. Military supply officers don’t care how cool you look at Red Bar, they just want the cheapest thing that will get the job done. Straps & Bracelets (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) While it may seem secondary compared to the watch itself, any great dive watch is only as good as its ability to stay on the wrist. To start, the idea that any dive watch not secured by a pull-through strap is destined for total loss following spring bar failure is overblown, but straightforward nylon straps do provide an additional measure of security while also being inexpensive and convenient for use over a wide range of different exposure suits. After pull-through straps, I would argue a bracelet with solid end links is the next most secure method of attachment but here, we have to take into consideration the potential need for or quality of the clasp or extension system required to fit over your diving suit of choice. Rolex’s Glidelock and Tudor’s T-Fit are among the most refined, but more attainable folding extensions from brands like Seiko get the job done just as well. Many rubber straps are also great but are at least theoretically less secure compared to the aforementioned options. For the ultimate in security, it’s tough to beat fixed lugs and a nylon pull-through strap. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Different types of spring bars and lug formats also make a difference where security is concerned. Watches like the Tudor Pelagos FXD or CWC’s collection of military watches utilize fixed lug bars that add a heightened level of peace of mind. If your watch has drilled lugs, you can use shoulderless spring bars that also decrease the likelihood of an underwater “oh shit” moment no matter what type of strap is being used. In any case, the decision about what kind of strap to pair with your dive watch should be taken almost as seriously as the watch itself, as it’s mighty hard to tell the time on a watch that’s rapidly sinking away from you into the ocean’s murky depths. ISO 6425 Standard The ISO 6425-rated Citizen Aqualand on a recent dive in Lake Michigan. (Photo Credit: Matt Ludvigson) It’s not a be-all-end-all, but it’s important to also recognize the ISO 6425 standard, a benchmark for dive watches and an informative set of specifications and testing procedures laid out by the International Organization for Standardization starting in 1982. At its core, ISO 6425 describes, “…watches designed to withstand diving in water at depths of at least 100 m and equipped with a secured measuring system to indicate the diving time, which is visible in darkness.” While that sounds simple enough, the complete standard is incredibly long and detailed, covering everything from pressure testing to shock resistance to legibility in the dark to corrosion and magnetic field resistance. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Many dive watches from brands like Seiko and Citizen closely conform to this standard but many others—from the luxury tier especially—do not, and here I’m talking about many of the original gangsters including the Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster and more modern legends like the Tudor Pelagos FXD. With that in mind, we should never limit our search for the perfect dive timer to timepieces claiming certification or compliance with the ISO standard. Helium Escape Valves (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) One of the most misunderstood watch functions of all time, the concept of the helium escape valve is often thrown around in the professional dive watch conversation. In the briefest terms, a helium escape (or release) valve allows expanding helium atoms that have—because they are super tiny—sneaked past the gaskets in a watch case over the course of an extended period spent living in a dry, helium-rich saturation diving chamber to safely escape during the days-long decompression process without making the watch explode. Unlike many dive watch features, the helium escape valve does its thing in the dry. (Photo Credit: Gavan Hennigan) There are automatic valves like you find with the Rolex Sea-Dweller and manual valves like in the Omega Seamaster Diver 300. Both work more or less like a burp. As internal pressure within the watch case increases while external pressure, in the decompressing saturation system, decreases, the valve actuates, allowing the watch to equalize with its surroundings. If you are a commercial saturation diver who needs this functionality, you are most likely already aware. The rest of you do not and will not ever need such a valve no matter how extreme your scuba diving adventures at Sandals resort may become. Final Thoughts There are, of course, other aspects of dive watches that are important including a generally stout and durable build and a robust movement that can handle the knocks and bangs associated with diving and dive boats. That said, for this Dispatch, we decided to concentrate on the traits that are more specific to watches produced for the undersea environment. To summarize, we’re talking about appropriate water resistance, a method of measuring elapsed time, legibility in all conditions, and a strap or bracelet that will keep your dive watch right where it belongs. You don’t need one, but we also highlighted the helium escape valve’s incredibly rare but important work. If dive watches can survive a wide range of underwater hazards, chances are they can take on your daily life. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) Whether you intend to go diving or not, it’s important to understand the reasoning behind the basic dive design format that has become one of the most recognizable and popular watch silhouettes in horological history. Scuba diving remains relatively unpopular, but dive watches have transcended their intended use case and category to become the most popular overall sports watch type in part because of the capabilities they developed over decades on the wrists of military, professional, and recreational divers. And hey, even if you’re not going diving anytime soon, the bezel is great for timing whatever you have on the Big Green Egg in the backyard.  If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.  Read Next: The Dive Watch - How The Military Helped To Shape History’s Greatest Tool Watch

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Elliot Brown & The Special Boat Service

Elliot Brown & The Special Boat Service

How A British Independent Watch Brand Created The Latest SBS Issue Watch The list of modern military-issued analog watches is short. The fact is, most...

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How A British Independent Watch Brand Created The Latest SBS Issue Watch The list of modern military-issued analog watches is short. The fact is, most forces have understandably transitioned to digital tool watches, arguably a more effective tool for modern warfare. That said, they do exist and one of the most interesting and least understood is the Elliot Brown Holton Professional. The Holton was designed from the ground up in partnership with and is currently issued to the British Special Boat Service (SBS), the United Kingdom’s “tier one” maritime special operations force unit, a loose equivalent to SEAL Team Six. Many of the stories we tell revolve around “unit watches” or private purchases used during an individual operator's career. This is the story of a purpose-built tool watch designed to satisfy a specific operational requirement. But it is also the story of the SBS’s culture and the role watches play. When newly badged operators arrive at Poole, the headquarters of the British Special Boat Service, they receive a green beret with the SBS insignia, a belt, a hardcover book on the history of their unit, and the standard-issue Elliot Brown Holton Professional. These are just things but are also intended to represent the accomplishment of each individual operator and honor the legacy of those who came before. The watch is a tool and the latest timepiece issued to the storied unit. Elliot Brown & The Holton Professional In the coastal city of Poole, England, we find Elliot Brown, a nascent brand producing a range of mostly tool watches including the Holton Professional. Despite the potentially massive marketing upside in celebrating the relationship between the Holton and the SBS, Elliot Brown doesn’t mention “The Service” by name, instead adopting the quiet professional approach of the operators who wear the Holton in performing their duties. In this Dispatch, we’ll shine a light on Elliot Brown and tell the story behind the development of the Holton Professional. RM Poole, the home base for the SBS, is conveniently located near the boatyard Elliot Brown calls home. Far from its current military associations, Elliot Brown was founded in 2013 as the brainchild of Ian Elliot and Alex Brown. At its outset, the brand’s goal was to produce durable, relatively inexpensive watches designed around the founders’ collective experience in outdoor sports, watch enthusiasm, and engineering. Location was important as well. Headquartered in a working boat yard near Poole Harbour on England’s south coast, Elliot Brown neighbors RM Poole, the home of the Special Boat Service. Among the world’s most elite maritime SpecOps units, the SBS also has an impressive history when it comes to horology. A Brief History Of The Special Boat Service & Watches Sergeant Paul “Scruff” McGough of the British SBS wearing an issued Cabot Watch Company (CWC) SBS during the battle for Qala-I Jangi Prison on 27 November 2001. (Photo Credit: First Casualty, Toby Harnden) With roots dating back to the Second World War including no shortage of heroic assaults on Axis shipping by way of specialized folding canoes called “folbots”, today’s SBS is a modern maritime assault force specializing in counterterrorism. Trained in diving, small boats, reconnaissance, parachuting, small unit tactics, explosives, and sabotage, the SBS serves as the Ministry of Defense’s equivalent to SEAL Team Six. For the watch enthusiast, the SBS is also closely linked to some of history’s most legendary dive watches including the Rolex Military Submariner or MilSub which was issued to British forces including the SBS starting in 1971. In 1980, CWC took over, first with an automatic and then quartz versions of its Royal Navy Diver, a far less expensive option compared to the Rolex Submariners that had a nasty habit of going “missing”. The Special Boat Service has impressive horological associations, having used the Rolex MilSub in the 1970s and CWC models including the SBS in the decades to follow. Photo Credit: Bonhams (Rolex) and James Rupley (CWC) In 1987, supposedly stemming from a special request from the Special Boat Service, CWC introduced its SBS, a blacked-out version of the RN Diver to reduce reflections for nighttime and maritime operations. CWC’s SBS is still issued to certain specialist diving units within the Ministry of Defense and worn by members of the Special Boat Service, however many have now transitioned to the standard issue Elliot Brown. A New British Watch Brand & One Of The World’s Premier Special Forces Units Former SBS operator and celebrated mountaineer Nims Purja MBE wearing a digital tool watch during training operations. (Photo Credit: Nirmal Purja MBE) When Elliot Brown launched in 2013 at the London Watch Show, the brand’s earliest models were capable but provided more of a civilian aesthetic. At the time, Special Boat Service operators wore a variety of digital and analog watches including CWC, early Suunto GPS watches, and the ubiquitous Casio G-Shock. Despite the utility offered by Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.), SBS regulations specifically state an analog dive watch must be worn for all diving operations, with a diving supervisor individually checking each operator’s watch before they can enter the water. Of note, the analog watches are worn in combination with a dive computer. The SBSA Canford inspired the development of the Holton Professional. (Photo Credit: Elliot Brown) After creating a special version of its Canford model to raise funds for the Special Boat Service Association (SBSA), several active members of the unit began using the commemorative watch on actual operations. Wondering what might be possible with a watch designed from the ground up for the operators, a development process officially began for the watch that would become the Holton Professional in 2015. Specifically, the unit requested a watch that was indestructible and visible at night and in low light conditions underwater, with a rotating bezel that could easily be operated with all manner of gloved hands. Founders Alex and Ian worked closely with the unit, producing multiple rounds of prototypes that were each individually tested by various SBS squadrons. Specifically, the brand engineered a recessed four-o’clock crown with three seals, single-sided screw lug bars for ease of use and durability, and a novel bezel edge with an almost hobnail-like texture that was intended to be rotated with the palm of a gloved hand. The bezel insert was filled with luminescent material and made from hardened steel as opposed to aluminum on the CWC SBS, with Super-LumiNova also being utilized across the dial and hands. Tritium tubes were also considered but ultimately ruled out because they light up under night vision whereas printed luminescent material does not. Delivered to the unit on a fitted rubber strap, the watches also included a traditional nylon “Zulu” strap intended to work with the thick drysuits utilized by the divers in cooler waters. The dial design was straightforward and incorporated “sword” hands, a familiar trait from other British military dive watches. At 6 o’clock on the dial is a “broad arrow,” denoting it as official property of the MOD as a military-issued watch. Civilian versions, which are almost identical to issued examples, also have the broad arrow insignia. An Elliot Brown Holton Professional alongside a Rolex Submariner. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Once the operators were happy with the design, the challenge of guiding the new watches through official channels into the hands of the operators began in earnest. First came the NSN or Nato Stock Number, issued to items in compliance with specific regulations for particular pieces of equipment including dive watches. Obtaining an NSN can be daunting, but the presence of an NSN doesn’t necessarily mean an item is officially issued but rather simply that it could be issued. For the Ministry of Defense, an item must be obtained by a unit through an approved intermediary supplier rather than the brand, just as CWC is supplied to the MoD through a supplier called Silvermans. With multiple layers of bureaucracy managed, the initial batch of the Holton Professional was delivered to the SBS in late 2017, first to Sabre Squadrons tasked with counterterrorism and then to other units in turn. While they are otherwise identical to civilian versions of the Holton, issued examples have a unique crown. Elliot Brown’s “Unit Watch” Program An Elliot Brown “unit watch” produced for a particular Special Air Service (SAS) squadron. (Photo Credit: Former SAS Melvyn Downes) In addition to the Holton Professional’s official connection to the SBS, Elliot Brown has also become a supplier of commemorative “unit watches” for various other military and civilian organizations including the SAS (pictured above), UK Counter Terrorism Police, the Royal Navy Submarine Service, and others. Rather than being issued and paid for with government funds, these watches are modified versions of existing designs within the brand’s catalog that are available for private purchase for vetted members of the organization. We have covered other brands known for producing “unit watches” including Tudor, OMEGA, Breitling, Bremont, and Christopher Ward, but it’s always nice to see a smaller brand getting into the space, especially with a price point that presents a less daunting boundary compared to traditional luxury brands. The Military-Issue Analog Dive Watch - Last Of A Dying Breed As we’ve established in many instances on the Dispatch, there is an established community within Intelligence, NatSec, and SpecOps with a passion for horology. That said, instances where government organizations deem it appropriate to spend taxpayer dollars on analog watches are becoming fewer and farther between, increasingly usurped by cheaper, more feature-rich digital options. Still, holdouts including Elliot Brown’s active issue to the Special Boat Service and Marathon’s use by various US SpecOps units prove the analog dive watch remains relevant today. The story of the Holton, a Tier One unit approaching a smaller watch brand with a list of requests that ends up becoming an issued watch, is rare, but the utility behind wearing watches for their intended purpose sentiment isn’t. The “Use Your Tools” ethos is alive and well. Typically, in an article like this one, we’d share “action shots” of members of the unit in question wearing the watches in question. However, in stark contrast to many US SpecOps units, the SBS remains incredibly secretive, meaning such photographs are essentially nonexistent. With that in mind, with operational security in mind, we’ve used either photos released by former members of the unit who are now in the public eye or photographs taken with unit members and approved for wider distribution. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Dive Watch - How The Military Helped To Shape History’s Greatest Tool Watch

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A Navy SEAL’s Unlikely Journey Into The Watch World

A Navy SEAL’s Unlikely Journey Into The Watch World

From The Mountains Of Afghanistan To Watches & Wonders In Geneva I pulled out my map and grease pencil, and said, “Tell me where you...

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From The Mountains Of Afghanistan To Watches & Wonders In Geneva I pulled out my map and grease pencil, and said, “Tell me where you are. We are coming.” Calmly, Kevin started giving his position, reaching the sixth number before another shot rang out. Silence. Another team member whispered, “Man down.” Kevin was shot, and the others were pinned down in the mountains. I didn’t know it at the time, but Kevin was probably already dead. November 24th, 2012 was a cold night in the mountains of Zabul Province in Afghanistan. As a member of SEAL Team 4, I was on my third deployment. Our mission was to train Afghan commandos, utilizing the local forces to clear villages in the most dangerous areas. “Clear'' is an innocuous way of saying the Afghans were — under our supervision — tasked with kicking the bee's nest before killing as many enemy fighters as possible.  At times, it was boring. Other times, it was terrifying. But we loved it. The author with his teammates from SEAL Team 4 in Afghanistan. A Rolex Deepsea is seen on Rob’s wrist at center. (Photo Credit: Rob Huberty) On this particular night, approximately 150 Afghan commandos and 12 SEALs flew towards a village that served as a staging area for repeated attacks on a small Army Special Forces base nearby. Through night vision, I watched the landscape fall away through the open ramp on the back of the Chinook, listening to the pilots’ radio traffic and checking my Rolex Deepsea. We thought we had a clever plan. We were wrong. SO1 Kevin Ebbert providing medical care for villagers in Afghanistan.  My friend and brother, Special Warfare Operator First Class (SO1) Kevin Ebbert, was assigned to a six-man sniper team charged with overwatch from the mountains above the village. To avoid discovery, Kevin’s team landed six hours before the assault element, reaching its final position just as day broke and the clearance operation began. As the Afghan commandos entered the village, shots unexpectedly rang out in the mountains near Kevin’s position.  I could tell the gunshots were from a sniper rifle, which I assumed was Kevin’s. Seconds later, Kevin’s voice cut through the radio, “We are taking fire… We are taking effective fire.” The term “effective fire” means you need to take cover or get shot. Kevin Ebbert during training in New Mexico leading up to final deployment. (Photo Credit: Meranda Boo Keller) I quickly assembled an element of four SEALs and ran at full speed toward the danger. I took control of all of the helicopters and airplanes on the radio, breathlessly telling the air support where I was going and asking them what they could see. The goat path we traversed was known for explosive traps and IEDs, but there was no time to go around. Seconds mattered. I was at peace with the possibility that I might die trying to reach my brothers in danger. The author carries Kevin Ebbert's patch every day along with his Rolex Deepsea. (Photo Credit: Rob Huberty)  My training and experience as a point man, climber, JTAC, and sniper, as well as my fitness level and ability to handle stress, were challenged like never before. Unfortunately, my efforts weren’t enough. We lost Kevin that day. We couldn’t risk a helicopter getting shot down, so we had to take turns carrying him down the mountain. I remember his smell. He joked that he had a musk and never wore deodorant. When we put him down, I remember his hand was cold. I noticed his wedding ring and G-shock. I wanted to take them off him and give them to his wife myself. That’s when I broke down into tears, overcome by the greatest physical and mental exhaustion I’ve ever experienced.  The author wearing his Rolex Deepsea in Afghanistan in 2012. (Photo Credit: Robert Huberty) I kept my blood-covered clothes on long after everyone else had showered and decompressed. I looked down at the Rolex on my wrist, still smeared with Kevin’s blood. The horrific loss of my brother in arms and the watch I wore on that mission are etched in my heart forever. Kevin was on his last mission and had been accepted into medical school. He planned to continue to serve others outside of the military. He was the best of us. He was quiet, but when he spoke, everyone listened. I vowed to use my time on this Earth better, knowing my fallen brothers would never get the chance.  Kevin Ebbert’s G-Shock in his mother’s hands. (Photo Credit: Charlie Jordan) Kevin also valued watches, having gifted his groomsmen pocket watches at his wedding. Like most Team Guys, however, he wore a G-Shock, preferring reliable workhorses over luxury items. Kevin’s mom, Charlie, still wears his G-Shock periodically. The inexpensive digital watch helps her feel closer to her fallen son. Watches are powerful. Childhood Heroes, Rolex, SEALs, & A G-Shock I grew up with the idea that rugged barrel-chested freedom fighters wore Rolex. Chuck Yeager wore a Rolex Pepsi GMT while he inspired the Apollo Astronauts. Paul Newman did as both a movie star and a real-life hero, as did Magnum PI, James Bond, astronauts, adventurers, spies, and frogmen both real and fictional.  The G-Shock DW6600 Rob earned after graduating from BUD/S class 259. (Photo Credit: Robert Huberty) One of my proudest days at BUDS was when I went from a naked wrist to an issued G-Shock. In SEAL training, you aren’t allowed to wear a watch until you earn it. We weren’t allowed to wear our uniforms in town, but when I saw Team Guys in Coronado, their sleeve tattoos and G-Shocks were a dead giveaway.  The author’s Omega Seamaster Chronograph 2225.80 he received from his parents after graduating from SEAL Qualification Training (SQT). (Photo Credit: Robert Hubery & WatchBox Studios) To celebrate my graduation from SEAL Qualification Training or SQT,  my parents gave me an OMEGA Seamaster Chronograph, my first “good watch.” With my first reenlistment bonus, I bought my first Rolex. I wore it in combat, in tragedy, and in triumph. I wore it for my wedding and the births of all four of my kids. After about twelve years of hard use, it finally stopped in dire need of a service.  Navy SEALs in Vietnam wearing a Rolex or Tudor Submariner. During my time in the Teams, wearing a Rolex on deployment was abnormal, few deployed wore a “luxury” watch. I wore a Rolex because I thought it was badass and honored the legacy of the Teams. Rolex is inextricably linked to SEAL history, particularly of the Vietnam Era. In Vietnam, SEALs wore blue jeans and tiger stripes and carried stoner machine guns while using issued Tudor 7928s or Rolex Submariners to time their operations and combat dives.  W.O.E.'s Vietnam-Era US Navy Issued Tudor 7928 (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Life & Watches After The Teams Through the loss of friends who ran out of time, I have learned that seconds matter. The watches I wear serve as constant reminders to never take the time I have for granted. During my military career, many of my watches including the Rolex I was wearing when Kevin died are tied to moments of sorrow.  SO2 Adam Olin Smith was killed in a helicopter crash in 2010.  When another friend and teammate of mine, SO2 Adam Olin Smith died in a helicopter crash during my second deployment in 2010, I retreated into myself, wasting time doom scrolling the Baselworld releases or The Rolex Forums, researching my first purchase. On August 6th, 2011, when Extortion 17 was shot down, my mentor, SOC John Faas, and 30 other Americans perished. John was another old-school G-Shock guy who preferred his simple digital watch over higher-speed options from Garmin.  Chief Petty Officer (SEAL) John Faas When I found out about John’s death, I hit the bars and then went watch shopping, which I guess was some kind of watch enthusiast coping mechanism. I didn’t manage to purchase the “Hulk” Submariner I was drunkenly eyeing, but years later I purchased a green Submariner that is still tied to that moment in my mind.  The author’s Rolex Submariner, a watch linked to one of the worst days of his life. (Photo Credit: WatchBox Studios) Evolution Of A SEAL Turned Collector When I left the military, I continued my quest to use my time to serve others. Rather than chasing war, I vowed to make the world better and also grow my family. I went to Wharton Business School. I struggled. I landed a presumably excellent job at Amazon. I struggled. I felt like I lacked a meaningful purpose. I eventually regrouped with other veterans and started ZeroEyes, an AI gun detection company whose goal is to reduce gun violence. We have developed technology that can detect a firearm in real-time before someone starts shooting. We have a team that verifies every alert and contacts local law enforcement to neutralize the threat. We provide valuable time to respond where every second matters. Working with this team with this purpose, I feel like I am using my time well again to help make our world safer. Watches remain a powerful symbol of the value of time. My watch-collecting journey has evolved alongside the way I strive to fulfill my mission of serving the world. I started with tool watches. A warrior's watch is a Submariner, a Tudor, an Omega Seamster, a Seiko, or any field watch. It should be stainless steel, mechanical, divable, and easy to read. Over time, I grew to love all watches, discovering a respect for other types I never would have considered. Today, I am a watch collector, a title I would have once considered embarrassing. Warriors should wear watches as tools, not collect them like stamps. The author with Charlotte and Andrew Morgan, Edouard Meylan, Tim and Kate Mancuso, Mathieu Haverlan, Simona, Rikki during Dubai Watch Week. (Photo Credit: Rob Huberty) As I became a part of the community, I learned there were collectors and enthusiasts who shared my same level of passion (or insanity). Finding my tribe, I went further down the rabbit hole, attending Dubai Watch Week and Watches and Wonders earlier this year. Just as it was during my time in the SEAL Teams, watches can be more than the sum of their parts. Today, watches are a powerful connector of new friends and like-minded individuals. I’ve also met watchmakers whose passion for their craft has inspired me. I started with mass-market brands like Swatch, Seiko, and Casio before moving to Tudor, Omega, and Rolex. I now pursue brands like Ulysse Nardin, Moser, and MB&F. I’ve had the distinct privilege of meeting with Max Büsser and visiting his “Madhouse” manufacture, befriending the Meylan brothers behind H. Moser & Cie, and spending time with Matthieu Haverlan of Ulysse Nardin. When it comes to Rolex, I’m still on the waiting list like everyone else.  A few of the author’s high horology pieces including an MB&F LM101, Ulysse Nardin Freak X Ops, & a H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Centre Seconds. (Photo Credit: Robert Huberty) As I continue my journey into watches, I have met people who genuinely enrich my life. Watches serve as catalysts for connections and symbols of deep meaning, whether for remembering fallen teammates from the past or new friends from the present. More than simply telling the time, watches remind us to use what time we have left the best we can, time teammates like Kevin, Adam, and John never got. Use your time well. Use your tools. Long Live the Brotherhood. About The Author: Rob served as a U.S. Navy SEAL for nine years. During this time, he led both Navy SEALs and foreign forces during training and combat missions. Rob holds an MBA from The Wharton School and a BA in Political Science from the University of Arizona. Rob is currently COO of ZeroEyes, an artificial intelligence (AI) gun detection system for real-time weapon detection and alerts. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: Aviation “Unit Watches”: Bremont Military and Special Projects Division

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Diving With The Marathon Search and Rescue

Diving With The Marathon Search and Rescue

Putting One Of The Last Real Military Dive Watches To The Test In the watch world, clout is king. For brands without centuries of history...

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Putting One Of The Last Real Military Dive Watches To The Test In the watch world, clout is king. For brands without centuries of history to lean on, sales and marketing professionals are left in a mad scramble for authenticity and heritage, searching for a story that makes their watches more than the sum of their parts. These efforts become particularly transparent when those outside our community attempt to influence those within, claiming their mechanical luxury watches are the preferred option for divers, SpecOps, or intelligence professionals. The Marathon SAR was unveiled in 2001. (Photo Credit: Worn and Wound) In reality, Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.) are most often the instrument of choice, but there is at least one analog tool watch still issued to the US Military in 2024: Marathon Watch. This isn’t the first time we’ve covered Marathon, a supplier to the US and Canadian governments since the Second World War. However, in this Dispatch, we’ll concentrate on the Search and Rescue (SAR) collection in particular, sharing its bizarre history and modern military associations before testing the watches on a dive on the California coast. It’s also a family of watches with which I have a significant history, having used both the quartz and automatic variants while serving the US Coast Guard and as a commercial diver. Beyond the utility, the Marathon SAR also has one of the more unusual origin stories in modern watchmaking. Watch Nerds Designing A Military Tool Watch For Operators RCAF SAR Techs made the initial request that led to the Marathon SAR Collection. (Photo Credit: Canadian Armed Forces) In 2000, Marathon Watch was approached by the Canadian Armed Forces (CAF) with a request for a purpose-built dive watch capable of handling the wide range of environments encountered by Royal Canadian Air Force (RCAF) Search and Rescue Technicians or SAR Techs. Trained in “...Arctic rescue, parachuting, diving, mountain climbing, and helicopter rescue”, the elite community of around 150 SAR Techs had a few specific requests including luminescent indices for legibility in all conditions, an automatic caliber, ample water resistance, and a bezel that could be easily operated with all manner of gloves. In designing the watch, Marathon did something all but unheard of, looking to members of the watch enthusiast community for guidance. Marathon first tapped one of its military suppliers who then got in touch with the founder of the Military Watch Resource (MWR), a niche online forum dedicated to military horology. With the help of a talented machinist, the first SAR watches came together, with input being gathered at each stage of the design process from members of the MWR forum who also coined the SAR name. The original Marathon SAR of 2001 utilized printed luminescent indices while being inspired by several great historical dive watches. (Photo Credit: Worn & Wound) With a 39mm case silhouette generally inspired by the Rolex Submariner, a dial format resembling the Benrus Type I, a distinctive knurled crown, and an overhanging 41mm bezel reminiscent of a rare East German military diver’s watch from a brand called Ruhla, Marathon delivered the first orders of its new SAR watch in late 2001. Initially, the Marathon SAR was only available through official supply channels and in limited numbers, with a few select enthusiasts getting their hands on rare contract overrun pieces. Issued not only to SAR Techs but also Clearance Divers and other amphibious members of the Canadian Forces since 2001, an important design change to a tritium gas tube illuminated dial around 2005 answered a specific request from the US Military. While they are not widely issued, the GSAR or Government Search and Rescue as it is now known, and its quartz equivalent the TSAR or Tritium Search and Rescue, can both be ordered by military procurement specialists in the United States through the GSA catalog — a sort of military and government Amazon — using unit-allocated funds. USAF Pararescuemen wearing the Marathon GSAR while conducting dive training in 2019. (Photo Credit: DVIDS)  Issued Marathon watches are not ubiquitous by any means, but it does happen. According to Marathon’s Government Contracting Officer, US Navy EOD, US Air Force Pararescue, and US Army Special Forces have all recently placed orders for watches from the SAR family. Our previous look at Marathon detailed several additional issued examples of the GSAR and TSAR. I distinctly remember seeing issued Marathon watches on the wrists of USCG Divers and select Aviators in my Coast Guard days. Over the years, Marathon has adjusted its approach to include a broader offering of watches intended for the civilian market while still doing the vast majority of its business for government contracts. Diving With The Modern Marathon SAR Collection (Photo Credit: Worn & Wound) The SAR collection has grown by leaps and bounds since its humble beginnings in the early 2000s. There are three case sizes (36mm, 41mm, and 46mm), quartz and automatic options, an automatic chronograph, and several dial colors and configurations. Marathon has leaned into the rise of watch enthusiasm but without losing the core direction. To obtain feedback from end-users and get closer to the enthusiast community, Marathon invited a few interesting individuals from the military and diving communities for a dive preceding Windup San Francisco, an enthusiast-oriented event. In 55-degree water, you wear as much rubber as you can. (Photo Credit: Worn & Wound) Preparing for a shore dive in water around 55°F/13°C, most of us donned thick 7mm wetsuits with a few ziploc bag enthusiasts opting for drysuits. Once suited up, we had our pick from a slew of Marathon SAR watches including the white Arctic dial GSAR, a JDD or Jumbo Day/Date, and an Anthracite GSAR. I used an original SAR from the printed MaraGlo dial days. Discontinued in 2006, the OG Marathon SAR is, according to a source within the company, poised for a triumphant return later this year bolstered by some subtle updates. A few of us needed to swap over to nylon straps to get our watches over our variety of thick exposure suits, but we were soon ready to go. Petty Officer Second Class (ND2) Brock Stevens with a Marathon Arctic GSAR. (Photo Credit: Worn & Wound) My buddy for the dive was Navy Diver Second Class (ND2) Brock Stevens, a veteran of over four years of ships husbandry on carriers and nuclear submarines in Norfolk, Virginia. Typically diving with a Kirby Morgan helmet as opposed to open circuit scuba, Brock is a guy with well over a thousand dives and is at home in the water. After the walk from the parking lot to the beach with all of our gear, we put on our fins and waded into deeper water. California diving can be hit-and-miss. In Monterey, being cold is all but assured, but the visibility varies wildly from as much as fifty feet or more on the best days to the three to five feet we had for our dive. That said, as you’d expect, everyone’s Marathon watch worked as intended, each of us timing the dive with our rotating bezels which remained legible even in murkier conditions. I had a diving computer on my other wrist, but given our max depth of around 40 feet, we would run out of gas long before any decompression-related concerns, and I could have easily left it on the beach. The visibility left something to be desired. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) After descending, we finned along a submerged outfall pipe covered in growth with the odd clump of kelp running lazily from the sea bed to the surface. Given the visibility, I kept Brock just within the limits of my range of vision. Reaching the end of the pipe, we set out for a field of metridiums, an out-of-this-world underwater forest of what looked like giant cauliflower stalks, then returned to the pipe for a leisurely swim back toward the shore. A dive like this goes nowhere near the limits of these watches, which are designed for and capable of much harder use. Brock has been using his Marathon while working on submarines, and it seems to be holding up. Still, it’s nice to see a brand invite a bunch of actual divers to experience their tools in their element. Given the SAR collections’s history, we know Marathon is no stranger to taking feedback from the enthusiast community, with a slew of recent releases to support the trend. When we met with the brand after the dive, they seemed genuinely interested in our feedback, which is seldom the case with watch brands.  Brock Stevens wearing his Marathon GSAR while working as a US Navy Diver. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) My positive experiences with the watches aside, I would argue the modern GSAR isn’t for everyone. It’s not refined or elegant, it's a tool. Given the tall bezel, it fits poorly under shirt cuffs. But the GSAR isn’t about that. It’s a watch that was designed as a tool. While it’s true most people don’t use dive watches as the tools they once were, some still do. The entire concept of being “mil-spec” or military issue adds credibility to any piece of equipment and in the arena of dive watches in particular, Marathon’s legitimacy as a diving tool is well deserved.  If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. About The Author: Benjamin Lowry is a US Coast Guard veteran and commercial diver turned watch writer. Now a full-time member of the W.O.E. Team, Ben splits his time between writing and product development at W.O.E. and managing Submersible Wrist, a watch spotting account dedicated to military and commercial divers as well as the life aquatic. Thanks again to Brock Stevens for providing several of the images in this Dispatch. To learn more about Brock, check out @deepsea.edc on Instagram. READ NEXT: Watches and Commercial Espionage: Waltham Watch Company

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US Army PSYOP: Christopher Ward “Unit Watch” in Recruiting Video

US Army PSYOP: Christopher Ward “Unit Watch” in Recruiting Video

Last week, the US Army’s 4th Psychological Operations (PSYOP) Group released Ghosts In The Machine 2, the second installment in a series of highly stylized...

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Last week, the US Army’s 4th Psychological Operations (PSYOP) Group released Ghosts In The Machine 2, the second installment in a series of highly stylized recruiting videos supporting one of the Army’s more unusual units.

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From NASA To SpaceX - The Watches Of SpecOps Astronaut Recovery Teams

From NASA To SpaceX - The Watches Of SpecOps Astronaut Recovery Teams

The Historic Link Between The US Space Program, Special Operations Forces, & Timepieces In 2020, some 45 years had passed since a crewed US spacecraft...

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The Historic Link Between The US Space Program, Special Operations Forces, & Timepieces In 2020, some 45 years had passed since a crewed US spacecraft splashed down at sea. On 2 August, NASA astronauts Douglas Hurley and Robert Behnken experienced no less than four g’s as they hurtled toward the Earth in Elon Musk’s SpaceX Crew Dragon Endeavour. The mission, Crew Demo-2, marked historic firsts including the first crewed commercial space flight as well as the first two-person orbital space flight launched from the United States since STS-4 in 1982. Slowed by four massive parachutes, Demo-2’s Endeavour capsule splashed down in the Gulf of Mexico, just off the coast of Pensacola, Florida, at 2:48 pm. But what then? SpaceX’s Crew Demo-2, the first crewed private space flight, is towed to a support vessel after recovery at sea in 2020. (Photo Credit: NASA) The model of launch, flight, reentry, splashdown in the ocean, and recovery, was established during the earliest days of manned space flight. Considerably safer than returning to earth on land, NASA has traditionally favored a waterborne splashdown for its manned space flights, including the storied Mercury, Gemini, and Apollo missions as well as more recent efforts including Artemis. However, things can and have gone wrong. Assuming the capsule meets the sea as intended, it can still sink or capsize, presenting a perilous situation for any astronauts inside.  One area of space travel that goes mostly unexplored by enthusiast media is the long-standing relationship between select SpecOps units and the Space Program. Starting with US Navy Underwater Demolition Teams and Air Force Pararescue Teams in the 1960s and carrying on through modern SpaceX, Boeing, and Artemis missions, the challenging tasks of astronaut recovery and/or rescue continue to be quietly carried out with the help of specialized units from the US Department of Defense. Given the timing, early astronaut recovery teams wore some of history’s most iconic tool watches with names like the Submariner and Sea Wolf on the dial. Today, a select few still choose to wear mechanical watches for the challenging task of plucking spacemen from the ocean. Former US Air Force Pararescuemen (PJ) RJ Casey trains with NASA astronaut Doug Hurley, USMC, and the SpaceX Astronaut Rescue and Recovery Team. (Photo Credit: NASA Astronaut Anil Menon) To understand how SOF supports astronaut recovery today, we spoke with RJ Casey, who contracts as an astronaut rescue and recovery team leader at SpaceX. RJ’s history, which is deserving of a separate Dispatch, starts in Special Forces (SF) where he served as an SF Medical Sergeant and Detachment Officer (18D and 18A, respectively) assigned to 2/19th SFG in the West Virginia Army National Guard. A qualified Combat Diver, RJ picked up a Rolex Submariner in the early 2000s that he still wears today. A legendary watch in special operations, the Submariner serves as a nod to Special Forces units of the past, other more shadowy government agencies, and especially their maritime communities. RJ later joined the US Air Force’s Pararescue community where he currently serves as a reserve Combat Rescue Officer when he isn’t training and recovering astronauts at his civilian job. Today, RJ primarily wears his Bremont S502 Jet, a watch from the brand’s Military and Special Projects Division that he has used for all of his astronaut operations and training evolutions to date. RJ Casey assists NASA Astronaut Nicole Mann, USMC, and Crew-5 Commander, out of SpaceX’s Dragon capsule, pictured with his Bremont S502 Jet military project watch. (Photo Credit: NASA) While space flight has come a long way, having elite rescue specialists like RJ nearby is still a requirement for manned space missions today. SpaceX and NASA’s modern capsule recovery efforts have gone largely without incident, but the involvement of units from the US Navy and Air Force as an additional layer of contingency for these missions is, like so many other lessons in space exploration, the result of a near miss that almost cost the United States the life of an astronaut. How A Near Miss Galvanized A Historic Relationship In 1961, Mercury-Redstone 4 was NASA’s second manned space flight, lasting only fifteen minutes and thirty-seven seconds. Astronaut Gus Grissom, a legendary member of the original Mercury Seven, would have been forgiven for thinking the hard work was behind him. After a successful trip into sub-orbit, the second American in space descended towards the Earth. Liberty Bell 7’s parachutes deployed as intended, and the capsule splashed down approximately 300 miles from its launch location in Cape Canaveral, Florida. Job done. Or so it seemed. Astronaut Gus Grissom, the second American in space. (Photo Credit: National Air And Space Museum) As Marine helicopters from the awaiting USS Randolph approached, Liberty Bell 7’s explosive hatch blew off of the capsule, almost immediately filling the spacecraft with water. A veteran of 100 combat missions in Korea, Grissom acted quickly, leaping from the open hatch to escape the sinking capsule but forgetting to close a valve on his space suit. Mistakenly thinking the astronaut was relatively safe, the crew of the primary recovery helicopter turned its attention to the rapidly sinking spacecraft. Grissom, whose suit was quickly flooded, waved and shouted as he struggled to keep his head above water. At the time, NASA procedures did not call for someone in a boat or in the water to assist with the astronaut’s egress from the capsule. Unfortunate for NASA, but lucky for Grissom, Liberty Bell 7 could not be saved. As the primary recovery helicopter battled with the weight of the sunken capsule, ultimately electing to cut it loose to the depths, the secondary helicopter swooped in to recover one very tired astronaut. One mechanical misstep and NASA very nearly lost its second man in space. After his harrowing ordeal, Grissom is lifted to safety by a Marine helicopter. (Photo Credit: National Air And Space Museum) NASA & The Frogmen Of The Underwater Demolition Teams While NASA already had ties to DOD for assistance in astronaut recovery or rescue, Grissom’s near miss illustrated the necessity of having trained personnel in the water at the splashdown location in the event of a similar mishap. Lacking such personnel, NASA looked to the US Navy’s Underwater Demolition Teams, composed of “frogmen” with extensive experience in challenging open ocean conditions. Tracing their origins to nascent maritime special operations units established during World War II, the UDTs received specialized training in diving, ordnance disposal, beach clearance, and hydrographic reconnaissance, serving as the predecessor to the SEAL Teams which were established in 1962. A Navy frogman leaps from a recovery helicopter into the water to assist in the Gemini-12 recovery operations in 1966. (Photo Credit: NASA) From Mercury 6 onwards, recovery teams composed of specially selected members of various UDTs around the country were required on location to assist with astronaut and capsule recovery operations from the water. Along with a wide variety of specialized equipment more directly related to the mission, the frogmen used the iconic tool dive watches of the day including the Rolex and Tudor Submariner, Zodiac Sea Wolf, and others. Rather than timing dives, the operators utilized these now legendary watches to remain synchronized with the broader multi-agency recovery operation. Members of UDT 13 served as the recovery team for Apollo 12. The Tudor Submariner and Zodiac Sea Wolf can be seen on some of the frogmen. (Photo Credit: Navy Helicopter Association Historical Society) In the majority of the Mercury, Gemini, and Apollo flights, the mission of the UDT recovery teams was relatively straightforward and carefully outlined in this incredible NASA training film from the Mercury Program. After jumping into the sea from a recovery helicopter, the UDT men were tasked with making contact with the capsule before unfolding and deploying an inflatable auxiliary flotation collar intended to keep the capsule upright and high enough in the water. If the astronaut or astronauts inside elected to leave the capsule before being lifted and transferred to an awaiting support ship, typically an aircraft carrier, the UDT swimmers assisted with the exit and transfer into the helicopter’s personnel recovery sling or basket. Once the inhabitants were safe, the frogmen were then charged with assisting the helicopter in lifting the capsule and any other equipment onto the deck of the nearby carrier. Frogmen stand on the auxiliary flotation collar during recovery operations for Apollo 15 (Photo Credit: NASA) For the UDT men of the era, working with NASA to recover astronauts was, besides being extremely cool, relatively light work compared to their regular and often deadly deployments to the Vietnam War. A rarity for those within the world of SpecOps, many of the exploits of the UDT recovery teams were also broadcast live on radio and television, meaning hundreds of millions of people witnessed the typically unseen UDT’s hard work assisting in astronaut recovery, bolstering the legend that has, for better or worse, made today’s SEALs a pop culture phenomenon. Alan Buehler, a member of UDT 11, assisted with the recovery of Apollo 15 & 17. On his wrist, an OMEGA Geneve Chronostop. (Photo Credit: Alan Buehler) Getting back to watches, there are documented exceptions including the aforementioned Sea Wolf from Zodiac and the intriguing use of an OMEGA Geneve Chronostop, but in the majority of archival films and photography from these missions, UDT men are seen wearing Tudor Submariners (Reference 7928) the issue watch for Navy divers and SpecOps at the time.  WOE’s personal Tudor Submariner 7928, one of history’s most legendary military dive watches. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Eventually earning its own NSN or NATO Stock Number in 1978 (6645-01-068-1088), the Tudor Submariner saw extensive and well-documented service in Vietnam, during astronaut recovery and rescue operations, and even with other specialized units outside of the US Navy. It appears the phenomenon of Tudors of Espionage (T.O.E.) is nothing new. Bob Coggin of UDT 12 leans against the Apollo 8 Capsule with a Tudor Submariner Ref. 7928 on the wrist. (Photo Credit: NASA) US Air Force PJs & Astronaut Recovery NASA augmented its UDT recovery force with US Air Force Pararescuemen or PJs, combat search and rescue specialists who became legendary for their efforts in saving downed pilots in Vietnam. In addition to emergency medicine, technical rescue, parachuting, mountaineering, small unit tactics, and more, PJs were also trained in diving and ocean swimming, making them another excellent option for spacecraft recovery. In essence, the UDT was the recovery team in the event everything went as planned where the PJs served as the global rescue element in case of an emergency that caused a space flight to land somewhere other than on the X. US Air Force Pararescuemen before and after recovering Gemini VIII. In both images, the PJ on the right is wearing a USAF-issued Tudor Submariner 7928. (Photo Credit: NASA) And that is exactly what happened in 1966 when Gemini VIII entered a potentially deadly spiral in Earth’s orbit. Astronauts David Scott and some guy named Neil Armstrong managed to correct the spin, but the unplanned fuel expenditure meant the mission had to be scrapped. Given the spontaneous nature of the recovery and unplanned splashdown location, the job went to three on-duty US Air Force Pararescuemen out of Okinawa: Larry Huyett, Eldridge Neal, and Glenn Moore. In photos taken both before and after the operation, one of the PJs is seen wearing yet another Tudor Submariner Ref. 7928, a watch that was also commonly issued to PJs during the era. LTJG David R. Kohler of the Apollo-Soyuz Recovery Team with a Tudor Submariner on the wrist. (Photo Credit: Navy SEAL Museum) Jumping ahead, UDT Frogmen were in the water for the recovery of the Apollo-Soyuz Test Flight in 1975, the first manned space flight carried out jointly between the United States and the Soviet Union. Soon after, the United States shifted its focus to the Space Shuttle Program. For the first time, a spacecraft could re-enter Earth’s atmosphere, fly to its destination, and land like a traditional aircraft, obviating the need for water landings and recovery teams from the SpecOps community, at least for the next few decades. Commercial Space Travel Pararescuemen assigned to the 38th Rescue Squadron conduct water jumps in support of astronaut rescue operations for SpaceX in 2021. (Photo Credit: US Air Force) The rise of privatized commercial space travel has changed the picture for DOD’s involvement in astronaut recovery and rescue operations. For private space flights, the companies themselves are responsible for their recovery operations. For anything NASA-related and/or taxpayer-funded including the upcoming Artemis missions, the US Navy again serves as the primary recovery force, typically utilizing a blend of Navy Divers, SAR medics, and EOD Technicians. For anything requiring rescue, again more so in the event of an emergency, US Air Force Pararescue Teams also receive specialized training for capsule operations and are strategically located around the globe. Members of the 308th Rescue Squadron (RQS) “Guardian Angels” train with the Department of Defense's Human Space Flight Support Office, the only full-time organization that coordinates and trains personnel to support human spaceflight contingencies. (Photo Credit: US Air Force) Just as space flight has advanced technologically in leaps and bounds, watches have also progressed, much to the chagrin of die-hard mechanical timekeeping enthusiasts. Feature-rich digital watches from brands like G-Shock and Garmin now account for the majority of wrists in these specialized military communities. That said, there are plenty of watch enthusiasts in the military, the intelligence community, among astronauts, and even within the Pararescue community associated with SpaceX as we saw with RJ Casey. RJ Casey, pictured with his Rolex Submariner, and Louie Haus diving with the 308 RQS. (Photo Credit: PJ Ricky Dunn) While it’s difficult to compare the Space Program of the 1960s to today, the importance of safeguarding those who have recently returned to Earth remains all but unchanged. Highly skilled amphibious operators still stand at the ready to jump into the sea to assist astronauts in peril. Despite being overshadowed by sexier aspects of space travel that tend to garner the limelight, these complex, multifaceted recovery operations are a key component of what has made and continues to make space exploration possible. When men or women go into the sea to recover astronauts, whether it’s a Tudor Submariner or Zodiac Sea Wolf of old or a modern G-Shock, Garmin, or Bremont, the importance of a precision watch remains a critical instrument for human space flight rescue and recovery teams. -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: An Exploration of “Unit Watches” from the Special Operations Community: Tudor To learn more about RJ Casey, check out his Instagram. About The Author: Benjamin Lowry is a US Coast Guard veteran and commercial diver turned watch writer. Now a full-time member of the W.O.E. Team, Ben splits his time between writing and product development at W.O.E. and managing @SubmersibleWrist, a watch spotting account dedicated to military and commercial divers as well as the life aquatic.

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Dear Panerai, Stop Putting the Navy SEAL Trident On Watches

Dear Panerai, Stop Putting the Navy SEAL Trident On Watches

An Open Letter to Panerai, From Watches of Espionage In 2022, Panerai released the limited-edition “Navy SEALs collection” available intended for purchase by the public,...

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An Open Letter to Panerai, From Watches of Espionage In 2022, Panerai released the limited-edition “Navy SEALs collection” available intended for purchase by the public, and not exclusively Navy SEALs.  The watches are operator-chic , complete with a Navy SEAL Trident on the dial or caseback and a “Time to Target countdown” feature. The prices range from $10,000 - $60,000, the high-end models including an invitation to a multi-day Special Operations experience (Xperience) which, according to one journalist, means the “buyer of the watch joins retired Navy SEALs on an immersive adventure that will include a rigorous training and rescue mission.” (Photo Credit: Panerai) The releases continued through 2023 and into 2024, with the latest Xperience occurring last week in Florida.  As an influential voice in the NatSec watch community, we feel compelled to comment on the matter.  To be clear, our intentions are pure. We’re apolitical and see watches as a vessel to look at the larger world of NatSec, Military, and Intelligence. We want Panerai and all watch brands to succeed and provide a service to our community and the broader public.  But we think Panerai needs a course correction when it pertains to this watch and this “Xperience.”  -- Dear Panerai, I first learned of Officine Panerai in the 2010s, sitting in a third world capital having drinks with a SEAL colleague.  My friend explained that Panerai had a strong following in Naval Special Warfare (NSW) due to the brand's lineage that can be traced to the Italian Frogmen of WWII.  Like many others, he bought his first Panerai to commemorate a deployment and the Luminor Marina was a nod to those who came before him.  In our community, history is everything. Tradition matters.  I was immediately intrigued.  The signature case shape appealed to my alpha-driven tastes and the history of the brand appealed to me.  Over the next year, I visited boutiques in London, Istanbul, and Johannesburg to try on some Panerais before ultimately making a purchase: a tobacco dial titanium Luminor Marina 8 Days PAM 00564.  I wore it throughout the next overseas tour as a CIA case officer, including during the chaotic events of a coup d'etat. While my taste in watches has shifted over time, I will never sell that watch and it’s not an understatement to say your brand has had a strong influence on my passion for timepieces. U.S. Navy SEAL on training exercise (U.S. Army  by Staff Sgt. Jacob Dunlap) Heritage Matters Several watch blogs have called into question Panerai’s claimed lineage and marketing narrative and even resorted to personal attacks on your leadership, but this discourse does not specifically interest us.  The fact is, Panerai of today does have a strong customer base in Naval Special Warfare (NSW) regardless of exactly how it was formed.  I have personally seen your timepieces on the wrists of operators overseas, at Chick’s Oyster Bar in Virginia Beach, and in SCIFs in Northern Virginia.  No matter exactly how it happened, the connection between Panerai and the SpecOps community is real.  That said, we think that your latest iteration of the “Navy SEAL” watches, and specifically the use of the SEAL Trident - an eagle clutching a U.S. Navy anchor, trident, and flintlock-style pistol - for the commercial market is a little too much- likely a well-intentioned marketing scheme gone awry. (Photo Credit: Jake Witkin, aBlogtoWatch) To be clear, I do not speak for the NSW community.  I haven’t earned the Trident myself, which is why I would never wear it on a watch or t-shirt.  I have spoken with over a dozen active and former “Team Guys” and opinions vary from disgust to admiration- the majority rolling their eyes, having bigger things to worry about.  We can assume that you have support from some in the NSW leadership and have gone through the legal requirements to license the Trident.  Further, we understand that a (unspecified) portion of the proceeds benefit the National Navy UDT-SEAL Museum, which is fantastic.  But just because you can put the Trident on a commercially available watch, doesn’t mean you should. A Panerai purchased by SEAL Team 3 member and sold on the secondary market. (Photo Credit: Lunaroyster) The Best Things (Watches) are Earned Not Bought: The Navy SEAL Trident is earned by those who qualify for the Navy Special Warfare Operator (SO) rating after completing the arduous selection process: the Basic Underwater Demolition/SEAL (BUD/S) and SEAL Qualification Training (SQT).  The “Budweiser” is a strong source of pride and reminder of service, sacrifice, and far too many lost brothers.  Basic Underwater Demolition/SEAL (BUD/S) (Official Navy/DOD Photo)   We understand that a limited number of the watches are reserved for active and retired Navy SEALS at a steeply discounted price (~60% off retail) and an (unspecified) portion of the proceeds are donated to the National Navy UDT-SEAL Museum and at least one watch was auctioned for charity.  Well done.  BUD/S Phase 2 training (Official Navy/DOD Photo) Discretion is the Way There is nothing wrong with SEALs wearing a Trident on their watch and we are aware of several unit-specific watches (by Tudor and others) that incorporate the Trident into the design.  I know several SEALs purchased your Panerai and treasure the watch.  It’s the civilian versions that give me pause.  A simple solution is to reserve the Trident-laden watches for the SEALs and sell a separate “military-inspired” version without the Trident or “Navy SEALs'' on the dial.  Special Operations Experience (Xperience) (Photo Credit: Panerai Central) It’s tempting to criticize the “Navy SEAL Xperience” that comes with the $60,000+ PAM01402, and yes, it's borderline corny.  That said, anything that pushes people to better understand the commitment and sacrifice our SEALs make on our behalf is a good thing.  We understand you employ former SEALs to guide participants through this crucible and we are confident that they provide an experience that exceeds expectations.   (Photo Credit: Jake Witkin, aBlogtoWatch) Assume Noble Intent - never attribute to malice that which is adequately explained by naivety. To be clear, I actually don’t think this is a cash grab and I believe the “SEAL Watch” concept is likely a well-intended but naively-crafted strategy.  When it comes to the military and the broader NatSec community, watch brands are naive. They simply do not know the complexities of the community.   SpecOps personnel generally don’t seek out jobs in the marketing departments of luxury watch companies.  That said, many other watch brands get it right and there is a template for success.  Look at the special projects programs of Tudor, Omega, Bremont and your sister company IWC (also owned by Richemont) and you will find successful strategies that respectfully honor our community.   HAWKEYE Tudor Pelagos “Unit Watch” - available only to member of the Secret Service Counter Assault Team  Solution  You don’t highlight a problem without presenting a solution. The key to any successful marketing initiative is authenticity.  -Focus on Unit Watches - A unit watch is a timepiece that is customized by the manufacturer for members of a specific unit or organization and can only be purchased by current or former members.  Most brands offer these at a discount.  While initially secret, inevitably pictures leak out, which is fantastic publicity that drives sales and promotes brand loyalty on the civilian side, while still remaining exclusive to the military side.  As a recent example, Omega quietly released a special Seamaster Diver 300M (with the Trident discreetly engraved on the caseback) that is available to current and former Team Guys.  There was no press release; however, they ultimately found their way onto social media, creating a positive return for marketing for the brand.  It’s a sound business decision and a win-win for everyone. Most importantly, it’s authentic. -Be transparent about donations:  Last year our small company, Watches of Espionage, donated $24,800 to Third Option Foundation.  How much did Panerai donate to NSW museums and charities as a result of sales? According to bar napkin math, if Panerai sold all of the watches in 2023, you would have generated over $30 million in revenue. How much was given to the museum or NSF?  -Be transparent about US Navy lineage:  According to a September 2022 Forbes article, “Panerai’s historic team verified the legitimacy of an order and approval dating back to 1953 for Panerai watches and diving instruments for the US Navy.”  This is a fascinating development that seems to be glossed over.  What are the details of this order and for “watches and instruments”?  Is there official documentation available? Many from the watch and NatSec community would find this fascinating. (Photo Credit: Navy SEAL Museum) -Listen to the SEALs:  Again, you have a real customer base in the NSW community.  Reach out to them, ask for their input and feedback and incorporate this into the design.  Anecdotally, I know several SEALs expressed concern about the Trident on the dial and the overall design of the watch.  Listening to the intended end user is crucial for product development. -Lastly, keep the Trident and “Navy SEALs” off commercially available watches.  It’s really that simple. (Photo Credit: Jake Witkin, aBlogtoWatch) Again, this is not meant to be a rabble rousing post–it’s quite the contrary; we want to see Panerai flourish and sell watches to the Intelligence and SpecOps community for generations to come.  With a slight azimuth adjustment we think you can get back on course.  If someone from the NSW community would like to respond to this we would be more than happy to run that article.   We all know SEALs love to write. Sincerely, -W.O.E. -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our free weekly newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Forget Bond, A Real CIA Spy Seiko Watch

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The Great Escape: Rolex & WWII POWs

The Great Escape: Rolex & WWII POWs

Allied Prisoners of War and Rolex Watch Co., a story of hope in the midst of a grim world conflict. As the war between Axis...

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Allied Prisoners of War and Rolex Watch Co., a story of hope in the midst of a grim world conflict. As the war between Axis and Allied forces raged on, Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of the watch company named Montres Rolex SA, had a brilliant notion: Why not let these prisoners ‘purchase’ a new timepiece on the proviso

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Watches & Wheels: Pairing Military Vehicles with Timepieces

Watches & Wheels: Pairing Military Vehicles with Timepieces

Round Two of honoring the age-old tradition of matching watches up with heavy-hitting machinery. We’ve done it once before–paired watches with military aircraft–and now we’re...

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Round Two of honoring the age-old tradition of matching watches up with heavy-hitting machinery. We’ve done it once before–paired watches with military aircraft–and now we’re doing it again. Except this time, we’re trading wings and rotors for wheels and tracks. These watch pairings explore the world of military vehicles.  There’s no hard and fast rule that we use to come up with the pairings–the goal is to explore the world of watches–and military vehicles–in a way that’s engaging and offers some insight into both worlds. Part of this exercise is to isolate characteristics of a watch or vehicle that make it unique. It forces us to look at a watch and contextualize it using its physical character and attributes, and beyond that, the reputation of the watch that the community has created for it, or sometimes the brand themselves. Many of you will have experience with some of these vehicles–and watches– and you might even have a specific pairing you’ve found works. We’d love to hear about them.  To preempt any comments, yes, the Casio G-Shock could be paired with any and all of these vehicles, but that would be a pretty boring article. Let’s shift into low gear and roll right into it.  The Vehicle: The 464 G-Class Utility Truck Credit: Mercedes-Benz  The G-Wagon from Mercedes-Benz has been hijacked by the likes of the Kardashians and finance bros, but the roots of the truck couldn’t be further away from that specific culture. Contrary to the current reputation of the truck, it started off as an idea put forth by the Shah of Iran Mohammad Reza Pahlavi for the Iranian military. The brief was to create a reliable and capable 4WD platform that could stand up to the austere terrain the Iranian forces operated in. The Shah was an important stakeholder of Mercedes at the time, so the brief was realized in the form of the 1979 debut of the “Geländewagen,” or “G-wagon”.  Of course the modern civilian version is far from its roots, but for decades, forces around the world have used the G-Wagon to get it done. Mercedes still produces a special variant of the G-Wagon for defense and security forces. It’s called the 464 G-Class Utility Truck, and unlike the civilian version that needs 93 Octane, this version can run on poor quality diesel anywhere in the world, and sports a ladder frame, three locking differentials, and rigid axles up front and in the rear. And of course, a desert khaki paint scheme with black plastic instead of chrome.  The Watch:  IWC Big Pilot's Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Edition "Mojave Desert" Photo Credit: IWC This desert khaki ceramic perpetual calendar will set you back a cool 40 large. It’s the kind of watch with a case as big as its price tag at 46.5mm. But the aesthetic of the watch is its strength. It looks cool, even if you’re paying dearly for that look. IWC is based in Schaffhausen, Switzerland, in the German-speaking region near the German border. Underneath it all, there’s an in-house caliber that’s well engineered.  The Link: Expensive but capable is the theme here, and both of these things have a degree of unnecessary tacticool flashiness that’s earned them a legion of loyal followers, even if they’re designed with stealthiness in mind.  The Vehicle: Toyota Hi-Lux This is regarded as the most indestructible truck on the planet by most automotive enthusiasts. For better or worse, bad actors agree. That’s why you’ll often see a squad of masked goons perched in the bed alongside a shoddily mounted SALW set up ripping through the desert. We don’t get the Hi-Lux in the US, instead we get the Tacoma, which is a great truck in its own right–but not quite as tough as the Hi-Lux. It comes in a range of diesel and petrol options, 4x4 drivetrains, and the most basic features possible. Trucks modified as an “improvised fighting vehicle” are referred to as technicals. While yes, terrorists are known to employ technicals, our own Special Operations Forces have used them as well. The Toyota Hi-Lux is an absolute legend.  The Watch: Casio F-91W Speaking of legendary, Kikuo Ibe’s G-Shock is unequivocally the watch of choice for terrorists. It’s no secret that Usama bin Laden wore the F-91W. This isn’t to be taken as a knock against the watch, however. Terrorists deserve absolutely zero praise, a lot of us have dedicated our careers to mitigating their efforts.  But the truth is, the equipment that terrorists typically use has to be cheap and reliable. That’s exactly what the F-91W is.  (Read More: Casio F-91W, the Preferred Watch of Terrorists) The Link: I’ve met a few terrorists in my life, and they come in all shapes and sizes.  The one thing they all have in common, whether in Colombia, Somalia or Afghanistan, is a love for Hi-Lux and Casio.  Indestructible, simple, easy to use, and both favorites of bad actors around the globe–and good ones, too.  The Vehicle:  Land Rover Wolf You probably know the Land Rover Defender–the boxy, no-frills 4x4 that’s earned a massive fan base around the globe for its collection of 90-degree angles, not to mention its reputation as the physical incarnation of the English can-do attitude. It’s long out of production now, but the Wolf is the Defender, mostly in OD Green, with a roll bar and soft top, and a number of fortifications that made it fit for military duty. It also used the 300Tdi engine instead of the Td5 as it was considered easier to work on in the field because of its analog properties. It was widely used by UK forces during GWOT. There were nearly 100 versions of the Wolf performing specific roles like serving as an ambulance or modified for winter-specific operations.  The Watch: Bremont Broadsword Bremont Broadsword (Photo Credit Bremont) The Broadsword is Bremont’s interpretation of a Dirty Dozen watch, and it’s settled into the line-up as a GADA model that’s closely associated with Bremont’s military program. It’s simple, it’s tough, and has a touch of elegance. Just like its country of origin. It’s got small seconds at 6 just like the original Dirty Dozen watches, but now it’s joined by a date window. The font is modern, and it’s been endorsed by the MoD. That means Bremont has the rights to revive the Broad Arrow markings and put it on this very model. (See our profile: Aviation “Unit Watches”: Bremont Military and Special Projects Division) The Link: Strong ties to heritage and made in England with English pride is the theme here.  The Vehicle: MRZR 4x4 You’ve either driven a Polaris RZR or know someone who has one. They’re everywhere outside major cities in the US. The MRZR isn’t all that different, but it runs on diesel and includes strategic protection for use in conflict zones. The strength of the vehicle remains the same between the civilian and military variant: being able to rip through rough terrain quickly and reliably. The MRZR is designed to be transported in the V-22, H-53, and H-47.  The Watch: Pelagos 39 Photo Credit: James Rupley Rendered in titanium with the same legible dial layout as the apex predator dive watch, the Tudor Pelagos, the Pelagos 39 is slightly downsized for a perfect fit. Some folks don’t like the brushing on the dial or bezel, but it’s hard to deny how well this watch wears and how legible it is. (Read More: Tudors of Espionage (T.O.E.s) The Link: Light and nimble. Pared down. Easy to use. Their perfect size is their strength.  The Vehicle: High Mobility Multipurpose Wheeled Vehicle (HMMWV; Humvee) SOCOM Modified HUMVEE as a part of the Ground Mobility Vehicle (GMV) program. (Photo Credit: DOD) The High Mobility Multipurpose Wheeled Vehicle, otherwise known as the Humvee, entered service in the late ‘80s, just as tensions were heating up around the globe. Developed for large scale Cold War-level conflicts, it quickly became a central figure in TV reportage of the Persian Gulf War. Meanwhile it served in Just Cause, Somalia, and the conflicts of the time in Bosnia and Kosovo. Its early success cemented its reputation as reliable and effective, and it went on to become known as the most successful light military truck in modern history. Where the Willys Jeep is a symbol of American mid-century might, the Humvee stands in for the military role the US has played in modern times. In fact, the vehicle was so beloved by the Americans that AM General produced a civilian version of it, the Hummer.  The Watch: Panerai Submersible PAM02973 (Photo Credit: Panerai) Panerai (in some fashion) was one of the original suppliers to Italian Frogmen. The brand’s signature svelte Italian curvy case and sandwich dial might have been relegated to the more style-oriented subset of watches today, but there’s certainly bonafide military history in Panerai’s past. The watches are chunky and oversized. The Submersible adds the functionality of a rotating bezel and is engineered for diving. What many people forget is just how desirable Panerais were in the ‘90s and early 2000s. There were waiting lists and you had to “be someone” to get an allocation long before the modern hype watch phenomena. While many watch blogs continue to debate (hate on) Panerai’s marketing, the fact is it does have a strong following in the NatSec space, particularly with the Naval Special Warfare community.  The Link: Both the Humvee and the Submersible are built like tanks and were true kings of the ‘90s and 2000s. Back then, many people were probably into both. The brawny draw of both captured the same sort of enthusiast, though it may not remain so today.  The Vehicle: Soviet/Russian MAZ-7917 With a 14x12 drivetrain and the ability to obliterate nations with ICBM launching capabilities, the MAZ-7917 is a force to be reckoned with. If you see MAZ-7917 movements on intelligence reports it gets attention. It transports, erects, and launches the Topol-M missile. The 54th Guards Order of Kutuzov Rocket Division is reported to oversee the Topol-M program. MAZ (Minsk Automobile Plant) manufactures the MAZ-7917 in Belarus, and is state-run. In addition to military vehicles, they produce vehicles like city buses for Eastern European nations.  The Watch: Seiko Astron The 1969 Quartz Astron 50th Anniversary Limited Edition (Photo Credit: Seiko) In 1969, Seiko unveiled the first quartz watch, and set off what would come to be dubbed the “quartz crisis” by the watch industry. The Astron relied on electronics to tell the time rather than traditional watchmaking know-how that Switzerland specialized in. Quartz watches were cheaper and more accurate, and Japan’s trio of Citizen, Seiko, and Casio owned the market. The Astron was the watch that started this trend. We all know how the story went–Quartz had a moment but certainly did not completely stamp out the Swiss mechanical watch industry. But it was the Astron that sounded the alarms.  The Link: Both the MAZ-7917 and the Seiko Astron have the potential to set off catastrophic chain reactions. And one–the Astron–did in 1969.  The Vehicle: Bradley Fighting Vehicle The Bradley Fighting Vehicle is named for General Omar Bradley, made by British BAE Systems, and operated by Croatia, Lebanon, Saudi Arabia, Ukraine and of course, the US. It’s one of the most widely used tracked armored vehicles by the US and has been in service since 1981. As a tank, it’s a popular fixture in Hollywood military movies, and that’s for good reason: there are around 4,500 being actively used by the US military, and roughly 2,000 in storage. There are two versions, the M2 Infantry Fighting Vehicle and the M3 Cavalry Fighting Vehicle. It’s still being delivered to this day, at roughly 160 units per year.  The Watch: Omega PloProf Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M (Photo Credit: Omega) This is the ultimate dive watch from Omega. It’s waterproof to a staggering 1200 meters and originally used a monobloc case design which means the movement is loaded through the front and then a crystal is pressed into the case. In short, again, it’s built like a tank. There isn't an obvious curve on the case, either. The crown guard and bezel lock mechanism are actually part of the case, lending to a very functional design.   The Link: Both of these things are built in the same way–like tanks. One is actually a tank (well, a tracked armored fighting vehicle), and the other is as close as a watch can get to a tank.  The Vehicle: Type-10 Snow Vehicle Photo Credit: Military Today This vehicle is relatively obscure for a reason. Japan has a self-defense force (as opposed to an expeditionary force) and only recently has it moved towards exporting any sort of defense machinery. This means that most Japanese-developed military vehicles have stayed inside Japan, like the Type-10. It’s made by the company Ohara, which specializes in supporting civilian operations with vehicles in snowy environments, like Antarctica, where Japan maintains Syowa Research Station. The Type 10 is designed to carry 8 soldiers with gear and runs with a crew of 2.  The Watch: Seiko SPB297 Photo Credit: Seiko In 1965, Seiko came out with the 62MAS, their very first dive watch. It was well-received for the time, and Seiko took testing and quality control very seriously. The watch was issued to the 8th Antarctic Research Expedition team that stayed on the ice from 66-69. This visual language and case shape laid the foundation for plenty of Seiko’s dive watches since, and in the last five years Seiko has released a bevy of watches directly paying homage to this model. The SPB297 is one of them, and it features an icy dial to establish the link.  Showa Station, home of Seiko 62MAS testing. Credit: Antarctic Journal of the United States, 1967-68 The Link: We’ve said before that Seiko is the Toyota of Watches, but in this case it is the Ohara of watches.  Seiko might still issue watches to Japanese Antarctic teams (it’s known that Seiko made watches for JARE47 and JARE49), and if they do, it should be the SPB297. And you might find a Type-10 at Japan’s Antarctic station Showa as well.  The Vehicle:  BTR-80 - Soviet Union The Soviet-Afghan War is often overlooked, but some of the equipment that took part in the conflict certainly isn’t. The BTR-80 is one of the most striking symbols of the Soviet Union’s military might. It’s often depicted rolling through the Red Square with its crew popping out the hatches in the front of the vehicle during military parades. Most recently, the BTR-80 played an important role in the War in Ukraine. Both sides operate the BTR-80, and both sides have lost a number of them in the conflict. They’re still being produced to this day. The Watch: Vostok Amphibia Steve Zissou wore this watch in the movie The Life Aquatic, but that’s not why we think it’s interesting. The Amphibia is probably the most recognized example of a “Russian” watch. Although it should really be known as a Soviet watch, since it’s been around since ‘67 and Vostok as a company has been around since ‘42. Some collectors have a fascination with Russian/Soviet watches because of their prevalence in the current conflict in Ukraine. The Link: Both are instantly recognizable Soviet designs.  The Vehicle:  Jeep Willys MB Part of Roosevelt’s plan to emerge victorious during WWII included “out-producing the enemy” and this meant that the military industrial complex was spun up to full force. It resulted in an economic miracle, and one singular byproduct of that is the Willys Jeep. Roughly 600,000 of these light and capable 4x4 vehicles were produced, and they were shipped to every theater that the US was operating in. The vehicle went on to play a role in just about every conflict immediately following for a few decades; it was prominently featured in the show M*A*S*H, a comedic illustration of life soldiers’ lives during the Korean War. Of course, the platform evolved into an automotive smash hit in the civilian world with the Jeep Wrangler, but it started off as a humble git ‘er done piece of machinery serving on the battlefield.  The Watch: Hamilton Khaki Field Photo Credit: Hamilton We’re talking about an entire family of watches here, but if we want to get down to a specific reference, it would be the GG-W-113.  This watch was produced by many manufacturers, including Hamilton, to a US Gov spec (and that spec is GG-W-113, hence the name of the watches it spawned). That spec came out in 1967, and has since been replaced. But the modern, non-gov spec Hamilton Khaki field is the spiritual reincarnation of those Vietnam-era watches. The Link: Hamilton is now owned by the Swatch group, but it was once a truly American company that gave the US a lot of pride. The Jeep is another American icon. Both the Khaki Field and the Jeep spin off very successful civilian products that have become icons in their own right from a military specification.  -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.     Read Next: SEAL Team Six and a U.S. Navy-Issued Seiko Turtle

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W.O.E. On YouTube: How G-Shock Became The Watch Of The Military

W.O.E. On YouTube: How G-Shock Became The Watch Of The Military

Affordable Yet Capable Digital Watches Favored By SEALs, Special Forces, & Intelligence Officers It’s hard to believe we’re already on our third video on the...

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Affordable Yet Capable Digital Watches Favored By SEALs, Special Forces, & Intelligence Officers It’s hard to believe we’re already on our third video on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel. There’s been a steep learning curve in adapting to the new platform, but the response has been surprising and humbling. THANK YOU for your support and stay tuned. We have a lot of great stuff in the pipeline. While W.O.E. often focuses on analog mechanical tool watches, the reality today is that the majority of special operators utilize affordable digital watches including the G-Shock, which has also been widely issued across the US Military in particular. Our third video provides an in-depth look at G-Shock, affordable digital watches from Japan that have earned a place on the wrists of elite military operators and intelligence officers since the 1980s. Whether you’re a seasoned luxury watch snob or a G-Shock fanboy, you can’t argue with the utility and unmatched durability offered by even the most inexpensive G-Shock models. -W.O.E.

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Announcement: The Watches Of Espionage Coffee Table Book

Announcement: The Watches Of Espionage Coffee Table Book

Share Your Military-Issued Watches, Custom Unit Projects, & Operationally Worn Watches To Be Included In Our Upcoming Book We have big news. Watches of Espionage...

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Share Your Military-Issued Watches, Custom Unit Projects, & Operationally Worn Watches To Be Included In Our Upcoming Book We have big news. Watches of Espionage is in the early stages of working on a coffee table book that will offer a closer look at some of your favorite stories from the Dispatch as well as completely new content, all supported by brand-new professional photography from our regular photographic contributor and publisher, James Rupley. A US Navy UDT-issue Tudor Submariner 7928 from W.O.E.'s personal collection. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) As always, everything we do is for, with, and through the community. Our book will be no different, and we are looking for individuals with interesting watches to feature in our first printed publication. If you’re in the DC/Maryland/Virginia area or willing to travel there and have an interesting watch you wore operationally in the military, special operations, or intelligence, we’d love to hear from you. Here’s what we’re looking for: Military-issued watches. Unit watches i.e. custom Tudor, Omega, Bremont, Breitling, etc… Mechanical timepieces that were worn in an operational capacity. If any of these apply to any of the watches in your collection, please let us know by completing this brief survey HERE. As always, thank you for your support. -W.O.E.

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Veterans Watchmaker Initiative & The Global Watchmaker Shortage

Veterans Watchmaker Initiative & The Global Watchmaker Shortage

The World Needs Watchmakers & A Unique Organization Aims To Help Fill The Gap With Veterans Bolstered by the rise of social media and a...

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The World Needs Watchmakers & A Unique Organization Aims To Help Fill The Gap With Veterans Bolstered by the rise of social media and a slew of watch-related platforms, the internet has made the age-old art and science of horology cool once again. Ironically, as more people enter the hobby, the global watch industry faces a labor crisis. Becoming a skilled watchmaker is no joke, and there are simply not enough qualified watchmakers to go around. In this Dispatch, we’ll discuss the watchmaker shortage, including how we got here, what the industry is doing about it, and a unique opportunity for veterans who want to get involved. It may not feel like an obvious choice, but if you’re a disabled veteran in search of a new career, watchmaking may be one to consider. An organization called the Veterans Watchmaker Initiative provides all but completely free initial watchmaker training, credentialing, and even help with job placement. What Is A Watchmaker? (Photo Credit: VWI) Watches date back to the 16th Century, and watchmakers were artisans who hand-fabricated every component of every single watch they produced. By the early 1900s, standardization took over, with watch companies focusing on mass production using interchangeable components. A watchmaker from the Swiss Vallée de Joux. (Photo Credit: Musée de l’Elysée, Lausanne) Watchmaking changed from a largely European artisanal cottage industry to a broader technical field where budding watchmakers could learn the ways of assembling, maintaining, and repairing watches and “calibers”, which is what watch nerds and the French call the movement. Until the 1960s, watches were virtually all powered by mechanical means. That, coupled with the fact that almost everyone used to wear a watch, meant watchmaking was a small but legitimate career field supported by trade schools, apprenticeship programs, and infrastructure providing aftermarket components for servicing or repair. The Quartz Crisis To Today The release of the Seiko Astron spurred the Quartz Crisis, the effects of which directly influenced the current watchmaker shortage. (Photo Credit: Seiko) While there were numerous earlier efforts with electronic timekeeping, Seiko’s 1969 release of the Astron launched what came to be known as the “Quartz Crisis”, a major contributor to today’s watchmaker shortage. Bad news for watchmakers, quartz calibers were easier to mass produce and would quickly become far less expensive than their mechanical counterparts. Some estimates indicate the number of watchmakers employed just in Switzerland dropped by over 60% during the 1970s while the Swiss watch industry as a whole saw its employment decline from 90,000 at its peak to just 28,000 during the same period. Inexpensive digital quartz watches from Japan like the Casio Casiotron of 1974 emperiled the Swiss industry like never before. (Photo Credit: Casio USA) As the need for watchmaking declined with the rise of quartz, the once-proud trade of watchmaking became less profitable and attractive and the watchmaking needs of those who still preferred mechanical timekeeping were increasingly met by an aging population of watchmakers, a trend that continues into modern times. The numbers are staggering. A watchmaker at work at Patek Philippe's "The Art Of Watches" exhibition in 2017. (Photo Credit: CNN/Getty) According to Jordan Ficklin, the executive director of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI), today there are an estimated 4,000 watchmakers in the United States, a decrease of as much as 90% compared to the 1960s. Of course, there are fewer mechanical watches out and about compared to that period, but the shortage still means backlogs for watch repairs stretch into the years in some instances. Becoming A Watchmaker In 2024 (Photo Credit: VWI) As internet-based watch enthusiasm has spurred a modern renaissance for mechanical watches at virtually all levels of the industry, the supply of newly minted watchmakers has failed to keep pace. Every year, hundreds of watchmakers who were trained before the Quartz Crisis retire with only a handful of qualified replacements stepping up to take up the reins. But let’s say you’re interested in watches and seriously considering taking up watchmaking as a career choice, how does one become a watchmaker in the first place? At least in the United States, there are essentially two options. A budding watchmaker can either attend a formal school—and there are only a few in the US—or complete an apprenticeship program. There are only a handful of certified watchmaking schools in the United States including Gem City College School of Horology in Quincy, Illinois (Photo Credit: AWCI) With a formal watchmaking school, students pay to attend a program lasting from two to four years. The schools also typically work with brands and other entities to employ newly minted watchmakers, which is the easy part given the shortage. With an eye towards self-preservation more than altruism, many watchmaking schools are subsidized by the brands. Apprenticeships, the old-school way of becoming a watchmaker, still exist but are rare in the United States today. In most cases, apprentices don’t get paid, making this a challenging route. (Photo Credit: VWI) In either case, if you can get yourself trained or experienced or both to a solid level, there is no shortage of jobs out there waiting for qualified watchmakers, some of which pay surprisingly well compared to a traditional college education for non-binary art history or whatever kids are studying these days. If you’re a veteran, there is another unique opportunity out there that is so good, we almost didn’t think it was real. Veterans Watchmaker Initiative Sam Cannan founded VWI in 2017. (Photo Credit: VWI) Starting in 2015, Sam Cannan, a retired Baltimore police officer turned watchmaker, set out on a unique journey, to create a school for disabled veterans to learn watchmaking. Even more challenging, Cannan aimed to make the school completely free of charge, providing a pathway for veterans to learn a skilled trade and earn gainful employment in a high-demand career field. It took a couple of years, but Cannan eventually found a building in Odessa, Delaware where he set up shop, donated by the New Castle County government for $1 a year. The Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking was founded after the Second World War and provided no-cost watchmaker training to disabled veterans. (Photo Credit: Bulova) Calling back to the Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking founded in WWII to provide veterans of the wars in Europe and the Pacific with free watchmaker training, Bulova came on board as a founding sponsor. In return, VWI is also an authorized Bulova service center, and students finishing the school’s full 16-month watchmaker training course attend a further three-month internship repairing watches within the service center. While studying, students also have the option to live in a nearby house owned by the school, providing an opportunity for students to obtain an almost completely free education in watchmaking. (Photo Credit: VWI) The program’s graduates are in high demand and have been placed—with the program’s assistance—within the Richemont and Swatch Groups as well as brands like Patek Philippe, with a near 100% placement rate for students graduating from the full watchmaker course. Staring into a watch movement wearing a loupe may seem like a far cry from the realities of military service, but many program attendees and particularly those diagnosed with PTSD as a service-connected disability describe the trade as therapeutic, providing a level of mental health support in addition to promising career implications. If you’re a disabled veteran and interested in attending one of VWI’s courses, which also include a shorter six-week watch technician program, click HERE to learn more. Watchmaking In 2024 (Photo Credit: VWI) Thus far, a renewed interest in mechanical watches has failed to spur a new generation of watchmakers. However, with the help of programs like VWI, hope is on the horizon. As is often the case with the so-called “Skills Gap”, awareness is at the core of the issue. If watch brands both big and small hope to persevere, qualified watchmakers must exist at all levels, ready to handle assembly at the production level as well as after-sales service whether handled by an authorized dealer or an independent watch repair business. As we’ve described, brands including Bulova are stepping up to help—in its interest as much as anything—but we would argue a broader effort from the largest players is necessary to keep pace with a majority retirement-age watchmaking workforce. Especially for disabled veterans searching for a skilled career field that is also in high demand, watchmaking might be a great place to look. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Advice for Buying a Watch

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W.O.E. CIA Reading List Part 1 - The Global War On Terror

W.O.E. CIA Reading List Part 1 - The Global War On Terror

Top Picks From A CIA Case Officer’s Bookshelf One of the most common requests we receive is for a reading list on intelligence, special operations,...

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Top Picks From A CIA Case Officer’s Bookshelf One of the most common requests we receive is for a reading list on intelligence, special operations, and national security. While this is a little outside our scope of Watches of Espionage, we are encouraged by this question because it demonstrates a desire to learn more about impactful topics within our community. With that in mind, I took a hard look at my library and queried other friends on their favorite books on intelligence and SpecOps to create an incomplete but workable list. There are a lot of great books out there on these subjects. For brevity’s sake, we elected to make this a series, with the first installment focused on books covering the Global War On Terror that raged for 20 years in the aftermath of the attacks on September 11th, 2001. We encourage you to add your favorite reads to the comments.  CIA’s Team Alpha Prior to Insertion into Afghanistan in the wake of 9/11. While the purpose of this platform isn’t to inspire the next generation of public servants, we are quickly learning this is a byproduct of W.O.E., which is great. So whether you are a student interested in a career at CIA or a washed-up dad wanting to relive the glory days, here are some great books to keep you entertained, informed, and educated. *We have added affiliate Amazon links for each book if you want to purchase directly from Amazon and support the site. If not, that's cool too. The Global War On Terror (GWOT) In Books Kill Bin Laden: A Delta Force Commander's Account of the Hunt for the World's Most Wanted Man, Dalton Fury In Kill Bin Laden, retired US Army Major Thomas Greer, whose action movie-style pen name is Dalton Fury, describes his firsthand experiences as a senior Delta Force officer during the hunt for Osama Bin Laden including a riveting eyewitness account of the Battle Of Tora Bora in 2001. Of note, he also has some great fiction reads similar to Jack Carr. The Way of the Knife: The CIA, a Secret Army, and a War at the Ends of the Earth, Mark Mazzetti While we’re typically hard on reporters, Mark Mazzetti, a Pulitzer Prize winner, provides an excellent multi-faceted look at modern warfare by sharing the stories of intelligence officers, special operators, and CIA assets including at least one socialite. There is some great detail in this book that would never pass the CIA’s Publication Review Board. Licensed to Kill: Hired Guns in the War on Terror, Robert Young Pelton A closer look at the world of private military contractors (PMC), Licensed to Kill details CIA’s “Dirty Wars”, contractor training, and some of the most prominent successes and failures of private military contractors, often operating without oversight or repercussions when they cross the line. If you want to learn more about the Blackwater Breitling, this is a good place to start and about as unbiased as it gets on this controversial topic. Jawbreaker: The Attack on Bin Laden and Al-Qaeda: A Personal Account by the CIA's Key Field Commander, Gary Berntsen & Ralph Pezzullo This time coming from the Agency’s perspective, Jawbreaker is career CIA Case Officer Gary Berntsten’s first-hand experience coordinating the CIA's fight against the Taliban while searching for Usama bin Laden in the war’s early years. First In: An Insider's Account of How the CIA Spearheaded the War on Terror in Afghanistan, Gary Schroen Gary Schroen was a legendary CIA Case Officer who led the initial Northern Alliance Liaison Team—codenamed “Jawbreaker”—into Afghanistan, in late 2001. First In is his account of some of the first boots on the ground belonging to a team of CIA Officers tasked with linking up with the Northern Alliance in the Panjshir Valley. We profiled Schroen and his Rolex Submariner in a previous Dispatch, read HERE. First Casualty: The Untold Story of the CIA Mission to Avenge 9/11, Toby Harnden One of the best-researched accounts of the first phase of the war in the aftermath of 9/11, Toby Harnden’s book, First Casualty, should be required reading for anyone looking for a 10,000-foot overview of the CIA and US Army Special Forces’ efforts in Afghanistan in the Fall of 2001. Of note, Harnden also wrote a Dispatch on Israeli Spy Eli Cohen’s Eterna-Matic Centenaire Recovered by Mossad, read HERE. The Triple Agent: The al-Qaeda Mole who Infiltrated the CIA, Joby Warrick Coming from another Pulitzer Prize-winning reporter, Joby Warrick’s The Triple Agent is the harrowing narrative of Humam Khalil al-Balawi, a Jordanian double agent who claimed the lives of seven CIA Case Officers and Paramilitary Officers at a secret outpost in Afghanistan in 2009.  This was required reading for several courses at CIA and an important study of counterintelligence in counterterrorism operations. Hunting the Jackal: A Special Forces and CIA Ground Soldier's Fifty-Year Career Hunting America's Enemies, Billy Waugh & Tim Keown A legend among SpecOps and the Agency, Billy Waugh fought in Vietnam with US Army Special Forces and worked as a contractor for CIA in Khartoum, Sudan in the early 90s keeping tabs on a certain bad actor named Usama bin Laden. When the GWOT kicked off, Waugh, who was then 71, deployed to Afghanistan to continue his lifelong service to our country. Waugh is also a W.O.E. Dispatch profile alum, having worn some of history’s great tool watches throughout his adventure-filled life including a Rolex GMT-Master, Seiko 6409, and numerous Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.) throughout his career. Click HERE to read more. Ghost Wars: The Secret History of the CIA, Afghanistan, and bin Laden, from the Soviet Invasion to September 10, 2001, Steve Coll Where many of the books we’ve mentioned thus far cover the events immediately following 9/11, Steve Coll’s Ghost Wars concentrates on the intelligence efforts before September 11th including CIA’s clandestine efforts to subvert Soviet action in Afghanistan in the 1980s. I read and reread this book every time I went to Afghanistan, and it is one of the most comprehensive histories of the US Government's involvement in the region. Directorate S: The C.I.A. and America's Secret Wars in Afghanistan and Pakistan, Steve Coll Another Steve Coll piece, Directorate S covers the intelligence challenges faced by CIA in Afghanistan caused by Pakistani ISI’s "Directorate S", a highly secretive wing of the country’s intelligence service charged with arming, training, and attempting to legitimize the Taliban’s role in the region. This is a great follow-on reading to Ghost Wars. Surprise, Kill, Vanish: The Secret History of CIA Paramilitary Armies, Operators, and Assassins, Annie Jacobsen Another text looking at CIA’s Paramilitary operations, Surprise, Kill, Vanish provides a high-level overview of the history of CIA's Special Activities Division (SAD / SAC) interwoven with firsthand accounts of the secretive unit’s actions during the Cold War and the GWOT. I will note, while this is a good read with lots of great information, several sections are over-Hollywoodized and not as accurate as they appear. 13 Hours: The Inside Account of What Really Happened In Benghazi, Mitchell Zuckoff with the Annex Security Team 13 Hours is a detailed account of the events of September 11th, 2012, when a six-man team of GRS security contractors working for the US Government defended a CIA annex and a State Department Special Mission Compound from armed militants in Benghazi, Libya. Also having been made into a feature film of the same name starring the dreamy John Krasinski, 13 Hours also offers some premium Rolex Submariner content on the wrist of Ty "Rone" Woods, a CIA Global Response Staff contractor played by James Badge Dale. The Looming Tower: Al-Qaeda and the Road to 9/11, Lawrence Wright Another prequel to the events of 9/11 and the GWOT to follow, The Looming Tower is a Pulitzer Prize-winning narrative describing Usama bin Laden and Ayman al-Zawahiri’s ascent to the heights of global terrorism as well as the FBI’s efforts to track and understand the emerging threat presented by al-Qaeda in the 1990s. This is the best read on helping understand the events that led to the attacks on September 11th and an easy read. Send Me: The True Story of a Mother at War, Marty Skovlund Jr. & Joe Kent Authored by our good friend Marty Skovlund Jr. and former CIA Joe Kent, the subject’s widower, Send Me is the incredible story of Senior Chief Petty Officer Shannon Kent, a trailblazing female special operator, gifted linguist, and mother of two who served with Naval Special Warfare and CIA during the Global War On Terror, ultimately losing her life in a suicide bombing in Syria in 2019. Relentless Strike: The Secret History of Joint Special Operations Command, Sean Naylor Relentless Strike is one of the best overviews of Joint Special Operations Command or JSOC, the parent organization that serves as operational control for Delta Force, the 75th Ranger Regiment, SEAL Team Six, and other secretive intelligence and aviation assets. From its humble beginnings in the 80s to its exponentially larger role in the GWOT, JSOC became one of the United States’ most impactful weapons in the fight against terrorism. There is some great CIA content also in this book that is scarily accurate. Not a Good Day to Die: The Untold Story of Operation Anaconda, Sean Naylor An in-depth account of Operation Anaconda, Not a Good Day to Die is intelligence and counterterrorism reporter Sean Naylor’s beautifully researched description of one of the United States’ bloodiest battles in the Global War On Terror. This work details the early actions of SOF, JSOC, and CIA in the early days of the conflict in Afghanistan. No Easy Day: The Firsthand Account of the Mission that Killed Osama Bin Laden, Mark Owen & Kevin Maurer Where 9/11 is the event that caused the GWOT, the killing of Usama Bin Laden in 2011 is perhaps the second-most crucial event marking the culmination of an unprecedented intelligence effort by CIA and a harrowing raid by SEAL Team Six, which is described in detail in No Easy Day by Mark Owen, a veteran SEAL operator who was on the mission. While we generally roll our eyes at SEAL books, this is an incredible insight into SEAL Team Six and a first-hand account of this historic operation. See No Evil: The True Story of a Ground Soldier in the CIA's War Against Terrorism, Robert Baer Another account from a CIA Officer serving before and in the opening phases of the GWOT, See No Evil is an incendiary look at what the author sees as the Agency’s intelligence failures as well as a description of the roots of modern terrorism. Bob Baer is a controversial figure at CIA and many say his reputation is less than stellar. That said, this book inspired an entire generation of CIA officers, coming out shortly after September 11th. Horse Soldiers: The Extraordinary Story of a Band of US Soldiers Who Rode to Victory in Afghanistan, Doug Stanton One of the GWOT’s most iconic images is that of US Army Special Forces riding horses into battle in Afghanistan shortly after September 11th. Horse Soldiers tells the story of how these American special operators blended old-school cavalry tactics with modern warfare to fight the earliest battles of the early GWOT. This book sets a good foundation for our follow-on piece by former senior CIA Case Officer J.R. Seeger writes about the role his watches played in the early days of the conflict in Afghanistan (read HERE). The Accidental Guerrilla: Fighting Small Wars in the Midst of a Big One, David Kilcullen Providing a global perspective on the Global War On Terror, David Kilcullen’s The Accidental Gorilla contextualizes the importance of smaller conflicts and intelligence operations in Indonesia, Thailand, Pakistan, the Horn of Africa, and East Timor and their role in the more prominent wars in Iraq and Afghanistan. The More You Know Beyond their entertainment value, these books provide detailed history and incredible firsthand accounts of how modern warfare, special operations, and intelligence collection unfolded over 20 years of war in Iraq, Afghanistan, and around the globe. Setting politics aside, the GWOT presents myriad cases of true heroism displayed by regular soldiers, intelligence officers, and SpecOps personnel at all levels of the war. There are, of course, numerous other books detailing the events of the Global War On Terror including thousands written by Navy SEALs, but this list is a great place to start. As they say, the more you know... If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Israeli Spy Eli Cohen’s Eterna-Matic Centenaire Recovered by Mossad   *As a disclaimer, as Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases. When you click on links to various books in this article and make a purchase, this can result in Watches of Espionage earning a commission. If you’re interested in these books and want to make a purchase using these links, we appreciate your support.

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Watches As A Propaganda Tool - Russia, Ukraine, & The United States

Watches As A Propaganda Tool - Russia, Ukraine, & The United States

From the Cold War To The War In Ukraine, Watches Are Used As A Propaganda Tool, But Are They Effective? In June 2022, Ukrainian President...

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From the Cold War To The War In Ukraine, Watches Are Used As A Propaganda Tool, But Are They Effective? In June 2022, Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky visited the frontline troops on Ukraine's Armed Forces Day and presented soldiers with Ukrainian-produced Kleynold watches. The tradition of presenting watches to military personnel as commemorative gifts is long, but these watches served another purpose. With a government photographer on hand to capture the moment, the Ukrainian-produced Kleynold KFS-820s were tools of propaganda, a public demonstration of unity, patriotism, and Ukrainian ingenuity. This is just the latest example of watches used as tools of influence by Ukraine, the Soviet Union, and the United States. Cold War Of Covert Influence During the Cold War, the United States and the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (USSR) competed on several “battlefields.” These included “hot wars” like Korea and Vietnam, “near-miss Armageddons” such as the Cuban Missile Crisis, and shadowy proxy wars around the world. One of the lesser-known battlefields involved influence operations. Both superpowers used overt, clandestine, and covert resources to influence non-aligned populations in Asia, Africa, and Latin America. In the United States, the lead agency was the US State Department and, specifically, the Policy Planning Staff (PPS). George Kennan, the State Department senior official responsible for the PPS, served in Moscow and realized that in the case of the USSR, the United States faced an implacable foe under Joseph Stalin determined to control the world either by force of arms or by political warfare. George F. Kennan pictured in Geneva, Switzerland. To counter that threat, Kennan prepared a series of papers at State addressing political warfare's challenges. Kennan understood that a successful program would have to include every possible tool in the national security tool kit. This included public diplomacy, economic and military support to neutrals as well as allies, and clandestine and covert influence programs run by the newly formed Central Intelligence Agency.  The diverse set of CIA operations supporting this strategic plan included clandestine publishing and delivery of books banned in the USSR such as Boris Paternak’s Doctor Zhivago, smuggling news and music radio broadcasts into the Warsaw Pact countries and the USSR, and effective use of “agents of influence” to deliver a US-orchestrated message. Traditional Propaganda To counter this effort, the USSR used similar techniques. In the case of strategic communications, the USSR offered foreign journalists tours of “Potemkin villages” presenting the power of the communist economy. The May Day celebrations included displays of the Soviet military might, and in 1960, they created an international university in Moscow, Patrice Lumumba University, to train future non-aligned leaders. The KGB conducted “active measures” propaganda using their own agents of influence designed to portray the West and most especially the US as a poverty-stricken, depraved nation. The greatest tool in the Soviet propaganda tool kit was their space program. While US rockets were blowing up on the launch pad, the Soviets launched a small satellite, SPUTNIK, in October 1957 which broadcasted a radio signal as it orbited the Earth. In April 1961, the Soviets put the first man, Yuri Gagarin, into orbit, providing rocket fuel for the USSR’s propaganda program. The Soviet Union & Watches The Soviet Union had a basic watch industry before the start of World War II, but it was after the war that their watchmaking endeavors shifted from producing watches for the war effort to a blend of military and civilian programs. Two of the best-known of these 20th-century watch factories were VOSTOK (“East” in Russian) and the Petrodvorets Watch Factory (later renamed RAKETA, Russian for “rocket” after Yuri Gagarin’s epic flight). Both companies produced basic, easy-to-service, reliable hand-wound watches. Both RAKETA and VOSTOK watches were worn by Soviet political and military leaders as well as Soviet astronauts, pilots, and polar explorers. Soviet watch designs were also distinctive (for example the “Big Zero” Raketa). They also offered creative designs for water resistance including the legendary Vostok Amphibia that relied on increasing water pressure at depth to secure its water resistance. Raketa “Big Zero” in a chrome-plated cushion case with short, curved lugs (Photo Credit: Vintage Watch Inc) Beginning in the 1960s, both factories began to produce watches that advertised Soviet successes in military operations, space, and exploration. These watches had dial designs including Gagarin’s face, Soviet tanks, Soviet ships, submarines, and Soviet aircraft. These designs were primarily focused on building solidarity within the Soviet Union, but they were also exported around the globe allowing citizens of non-aligned countries with weak economies to own a reliable watch marked in English as “MADE IN USSR”.  Vintage Raketa with Soviet astronaut Yuri Gagarin on the dial. The objective was clear: While the West produced watches for the elite, the Soviet Union made watches for the common man. While anyone familiar with the international watch industry of the 1960s knows that US, UK, and Japanese firms were producing high-quality watches at an affordable price, the marketing plans for these firms did not counter the Soviet argument. Simply put: The West ceded this particular piece of strategic communications to the Soviets. Did it matter? Probably not. The collapse of the USSR was a catastrophe for most command economy industries. However, both RAKETA and VOSTOK survived and began to export to the West. The oddest aspect of these export efforts was the importance of nostalgia for the Cold War. Soviet paraphernalia began to show up in kiosks throughout Europe and both RAKETA and VOSTOK found European partners willing to invest in their robust yet extremely inexpensive watches. The War In Ukraine Long after the collapse of the USSR and the creation of the modern state of Ukraine, the country had a nascent watch industry in Kyiv founded in 1997 and focused on simple quartz and mechanical watches. None of these watches appeared on the market in the West and they certainly didn’t hold the status of popular VOSTOK models including the  Komandirskie and the Amphibia, both of which have cult followings among enthusiasts.  A KLEYNOD watch from the brand’s military-oriented “Forces” collection. However, following the full-scale Russian invasion of Ukrainian territory in 2022, the Ukrainian Kyiv watch company changed its name to KLEYNOD (Ukrainian for “treasure”) and began to impress a historic Ukrainian battle insignia on their watches. Their marketing tool was simple: The KLEYNOD watches symbolized the Ukrainian resistance to the Russian invasion. In a previous W.O.E. Dispatch, we showed President Zelensky giving KLEYNOD watches to front-line troops. At present, KLEYNOD offers over a dozen different military-related watches, clearly keeping the ongoing war effort in mind. Colonel Oleksandr “Grey Wolf” Oksanchenko, an early casualty of the War in Ukraine wearing a Ukrainian-made watch, Kleynod "Independence Insignia" edition. When Ukrainian Su-27 Flanker fighter pilot Colonel Oleksandr “Grey Wolf” Oksanchenko was killed on 25 February by a Russian S-400 missile during the Battle of Kyiv, he was posthumously awarded the Order of the Gold Star. Oksanchenko was a legendary Ukrainian pilot who retired in 2018 but like many Ukrainians returned to service to defend his nation. To celebrate this national hero and create unity, the Ukrainian government and press circulated pictures of the Grey Wolf, with a Kleynod "Independence Insignia" edition watch clearly visible on his wrist. The watch was developed on the 15th anniversary of Ukraine’s Independence. Russia, Putin, & Timepieces Similarly, Russia continues to tout its watch industry as a source of national pride. President Putin, known for his extensive watch collection including an 18k yellow gold Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Sohne, Blancpain, and IWC, is now seen regularly wearing a Russian made, Imperial Peterhof Factory (Raketa) watch. Putin and affiliated Donetsk People's Republic (DPR) officials similarly have presented Russian-made watches to forces as honorary gifts. Conclusion: In the West, we often see watches as timekeeping tools or status symbols. Certainly, both points are true around the world with world leaders wearing valuable timepieces. Cases in point include the new Danish King Frederik’s Omega Seamaster “Unit Watch” or Donald Trump’s many Rolex models. However, in the case of the USSR or today’s Russia and Ukraine, watches made locally serve as small but impactful propaganda tools that remind both the wearer and the observer alike that indigenous industries make reliable tools that are robust and meant to be used. Both countries export these timepieces to sustain their industries, but also to send a small message to the world: We are industrial powers. -- This piece was jointly written by W.O.E. and J.R. Seeger who served as a paratrooper in the 82nd Airborne and as a CIA officer for a total of 27 years of federal service. Seeger led multiple, small unit teams during his service, including leading one of the CIA teams that infiltrated Afghanistan after 9/11. This newsletter has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.  Read Next: Double Wristing Stormin' Norman

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Best Watches Under $5,000

Best Watches Under $5,000

Asking Watch Nerds & Experts from Special Operations, Intelligence, & NatSec For Their Picks We’ve often argued the best place to start with watch collecting...

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Asking Watch Nerds & Experts from Special Operations, Intelligence, & NatSec For Their Picks We’ve often argued the best place to start with watch collecting is under $1,000. With the rise of watch enthusiasm bolstered by the internet over the last couple of decades, there are more great options than ever to consider on the more attainable end of affairs, many of which we discussed in a previous “Ask The Experts” Under $1,000 Dispatch. We stand by our statements about starting with an affordable watch, but that doesn’t mean there won’t be a day when you’re interested in ascending to a more luxurious tier of watchmaking. Whether we like it or not, so-called “luxury” watches bring a lot to the table, more commonly offering in-house calibers, better finishing standards, and more premium materials while also tapping into the history and heritage behind some of horology’s most legendary names. As many of our Dispatch articles have illustrated, using a more expensive watch doesn’t have to impede upon the “Use Your Tools” ethos with numerous documented cases of individuals from the military and intelligence communities reaching for luxury watches in the performance of their missions and to honor their culture. For further guidance on where to look in the crowded $1,000 to $5,000 tier, we asked a handful of our friends from both the traditional watch media and NatSec communities for their choices. There are a few returning guests from our previous look at watches under $1,000 (read HERE) as well as some new blood. Despite the diversity of our experts, the one thing they all have in common is a shared love of timepieces. These watches are not inexpensive by any means, and the idea that not everyone can afford to play in this space isn’t something we take lightly. Tudor Pelagos FXD Black - $4,150 Jason Heaton (@jasonheaton) is an author, freelance writer, and co-host of the podcast, The Grey NATO. The field of “Use Your Tools” watches is a crowded one, but in my mind, the Pelagos FXD stands above the rest. Forged from the ethos of vaunted historic military divers from the houses of Rolex and Tudor, it is modernized through its use of titanium, ceramic, and, in the case of the movement’s escapement, silicon. Fixed strap bars aren’t for everybody, but their use on the FXD is delightfully uncompromising and will appeal to those who like to use their blunt instruments at the sharp end. CWC Mutineer ≈ $2,000 Chris Craighead (@christian_craighead) former British Special Air Service (SAS). Founder of The Ministry of Defence. To start, I have to apologize for the tease, but this article with W.O.E is too good an opportunity to miss mentioning my upcoming collaboration with my brand, Ministry of Defence, and CWC, a legendary British watchmaker known for supplying UKSF units since the 70s. Building upon an existing CWC case design, the Mutineer will offer a Swiss automatic movement and a few other subtle elements speaking directly to my experiences in the military. I used a number of different analog and digital watches during my service, but if I could have designed the perfect watch for my needs then, it would have looked something like this. The tentative release date is Fall 2024. Sinn U2 - $3,160 Dave Hall (@davehall1911) is a retired SEAL Senior Chief, Strategic Advisor, and President of the Silent Warrior Foundation. The Sinn U2 has been my daily wear and tool watch for over a decade and it is as at home in a pool or ocean as it is in a subterranean environment. I love the simple style and brute ruggedness of this watch. I use the dual time zone feature daily. The watch has many more useful features such as the comfortable four o’clock crown placement, an Argon-filled case, a water compromise indicator, a clasp expansion system to wear over rubber, hacking seconds, and a luminous blue bezel indicator which easily differentiates it from the greenish dial and hand colors in darkness. These features combined with the price point make it a tool watch worthy of consideration in the W.O.E. community. Sangin Hydra DLC - $1,999 Brock Stevens (@deepsea.edc) is an active-duty US Navy Diver and watch photographer. The Sangin Instruments Hydra is my first Sangin and definitely will not be my last. With a 43mm case, 49.5mm lug to lug, and a case thickness of 12.5mm, the Hydra wears great on my 7-inch wrist. The stand out here is the thinness of the case (while offering 300m of water resistance), which allows for a very comfortable, low-profile wearing experience. The Hydra is offered in both 12-hour and elapsed time bezel variants, and the case options include a DLC or beautifully brushed 316L stainless steel. As you can see, I chose the DLC diver’s version and never looked back. The Hydra immediately drew me in with its rugged, mid-century compressor design with that tool watch or tactical element that I love to see in my collection. The build quality and operation of the internal bezel are excellent for the price and stand up to larger Swiss and German brands. The dial is extremely legible and in low-light conditions, the lume is fantastic. With a name like “Hydra,” you would expect the watch to excel in an amphibious environment. However, it’s hard to know if you have a proper diver’s watch until you take it underwater. After testing the Hydra on-wrist on many dives, I am happy to report that it lives up to its name. Vertex M100A - $3,300 Darren (@zulualphastraps) is the owner Zulu Alpha Straps and a veteran of the British Royal Navy. The Vertex M100A is a must for every military watch enthusiast. Based on the Cal 59 which formed part of the original Dirty Dozen issued by the British Ministry of Defence in WW2. The M100A connects you to the story that brought us all into the fold, the origins of where watches and the military intersect. Tudor Black Bay GMT - $4,375 James Rupley (@jamesrupleyphoto) is a co-founder of small arms reference publishing companies, Vickers Guide and Headstamp Publishing, and a regular photographic contributor to W.O.E. A properly built GMT is a do-anything watch, and the OG 41mm Tudor Black Bay GMT with “Pepsi” bezel is my go-to timepiece. One of my pleasures when traveling is “jumping” the hour hand to the local time zone of my destination as I settle into the seat of my flight for departure. Its versatility is evidenced by the fact that I have worn it straight to the beach after landing, to formal business dinners, and to photo shoots hauling more Pelican cases than I have hands for across cobble-stoned European streets. Its satin-finished anodized aluminum red/blue bezel hits differently than the ceramic bezel inserts in use by Rolex today—part of the reason I consider it the spiritual successor to the iconic Rolex 16710 BLRO GMT Master II. I’ve got more miles under the belt of my Tudor Black Bay GMT than another other watch in my possession, and I have yet to see any contender capable of dethroning it of that title. Christopher Ward Twelve Ti - $1,895 Rob Huberty is a former SEAL and the COO and co-founder of ZeroEyes, an AI gun detection company. My first choice would be a Tudor Pelagos FXD, but others in the W.O.E. community chose it. Tudors are more rugged tool watches, and I am a washed-up Team Guy, so the Christopher Ward Twelve takes its place. Christopher Ward is starting to replace Seiko as my recommendation for the first “good” watch for enthusiasts. The Twelve is inspired by Gerald Genta’s (the most famous watch designer) integrated bracelet watches that cost 25 times more. (AP Royal Oak, Patek Phillipe Nautilus). The Twelve feels like it should cost much more, is COSC certified, and is watch nerd-approved. It comes with both a rubber strap and an awesome titanium bracelet that feels like an AP Royal Oak. The Twelve is less action and adventure than my Tudor, but it looks great when I am answering Slack messages, writing emails, or watching YouTube videos about watches. Bulgari Aluminum 40mm GMT - $3,700 Justin Hast (@justinhast) is a writer, producer, and watch lover. The Bulgari Aluminum 40mm GMT is criminally comfortable with a distinct vibe you either love or hate (the way great design should be). It was the watch of the Jet Set in the 90’s and even adorned the nose of an Alitalia. It’s a sub-$5k wild card for the curious. IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire - $4,900 Nic Barnes is an Australian military pilot & W.O.E. contributor. Given the industry’s relentless price increases over the past few years, finding a watch from a major luxury brand within this price range is now much more challenging than it would have been previously. That said, if I was given $5,000 to spend on a watch tomorrow, I’d go straight to this one. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire combines exceptional Swiss craftsmanship with rich aviation heritage and versatile style. The clean dial is incredibly legible, with a distinct military-inspired aesthetic that gives it a classic appearance reminiscent of IWC’s mid-20th century pilot’s watches. In terms of robust functionality, the 6-bar water resistance is sufficient for any aviation activity I’d be willing to undertake, while the movement has recently been upgraded to the 32111 Calibre, giving it an impressive 5-day power reserve. At 39mm, the Spitfire is subtle enough to avoid unwanted attention but strikes a rare balance of sophistication and practicality. CWC RN Automatic Divers Watch 'MK. 2' - $1,370 Henry Black (@onhenryswrist) is a WOE contributor and a writer for Fratello. He's passionate about the power of the hobby to forge friendships and a sense of community, as well as sharing stories about the hobby from across the globe. The CWC RN Automatic Divers combines actual military heritage, with the original watches being issued to Royal Navy divers in the early 1980s (and iterative versions also being issued to the UK's Special Boat Service members). The specifications are modern: Fixed spring bars and a rugged stainless steel case with 300m of water resistance and a flat sapphire crystal, inside is a trusty Sellita SW200-1. The CWC is a fantastic strap-on-and-go watch. CWC watches continue to see action with journalists reporting from the front lines of conflicts around the world. I wear mine in the ocean regularly, and the practical visibility and the quality of the luminescent material are good, too. For that reason alone, it is a solid choice for the W.O.E. community, and epitomizes the idea of "everything you might need, and nothing else." There are versions available in quartz, too. Doxa Sub 300T - $1,990 Sketchy Boyz Watch Club (@sketchyboyzwatchclub) is an online community of professional end-users sharing our takes on all things horological. A modern reinterpretation of the original 1968 Doxa 300T "Conquistador", the contemporary Sub 300T is a purpose-built tool packed with functionality and historical provenance. Historically used by military, scientific, and professional divers across the world, Doxa has earned its place on this list. Those who wear them certainly understand the meaning of "use your tools." One of the best parts about the Sub 300T is the wide array of colors and configurations available to users as well. While the enigmatic "Professional" model in Signal Orange is, dare I say, "Iconic", there are several variants that all have their own appeal and unique history behind them. It is because of all these reasons that the Sketchy Boyz Watch Club recommends the Doxa Sub 300T for this list. (And all the other ones we wanted to do were already taken). Tudor Pelagos FXD MN - $4,150 Asha Wagner (@wildlander6) is a Fire Captain, Hazardous Materials Specialist, & USAR Task Force team member. The FXD MN was the first watch in the FXD series and was built from the ground up to be a purpose-built tool watch. The watch has a bidirectional bezel, which goes against the ISO 6425 requirements but makes the watch more useful for its intended purpose as an underwater navigation tool. It is also the first watch in the Pelagos line to have a bezel that overhangs the case as well as having its namesake fixed lugs. The wider bezel makes the watch easier to operate, especially while wearing gloves. The fixed lugs ensure the watch will remain securely attached to my wrist no matter what I get up to (I’ve popped spring bars on a number of occasions and almost lost a few watches). The shade of blue Tudor picked for this watch looks great whether it’s paired with my work uniform or it’s worn while on a tropical vacation. For all the reasons mentioned above, the Tudor FXD is a pioneering purpose-built tool watch that’s hard to beat for under $5,000. Sinn T50 - $3,840 Nacho Conde (@nachoconde) is a writer, photographer, host of the Fratello Talks podcast, and the Head of Content/Managing Editor at Fratello. Few brands today take the creation of bona fide tool watches as seriously as Sinn. The Frankfurt-based brand prides itself on manufacturing some of the world's most overdesigned, overspecced, action-ready watches. The Sinn T50 is a pinnacle of the brand's efforts to create a perfect titanium dive watch with the brand's uniquely function-informed aesthetics. It's an uncompromising tool, obscenely legible, perfectly proportioned, and packed with special features such as its locking bezel, dehumidifying capsule, and hard-coated titanium case. For the price, it's damn near impossible to beat. The Sinn T50 is an unpretentious watch more than capable enough to take on anything you throw its way and look good doing it, whether it's daily life or the sketchiest of adventures. Tudor Black Bay Pro - $4,225 Soturi (@soturidesign) is a Marine veteran-owned business producing handmade watch straps inspired by military heritage. The Tudor Black Bay Pro is easily the best watch under $5,000 because it nails that perfect mix of vintage style and modern performance. With a 70-hour power reserve, you can leave it off for a couple of days and it’s still ticking strong. Its versatile design means it looks great whether you’re at the office or in the field. Plus, the build quality is top-notch, so you know it’s going to last. Tudor’s solid reputation in the watch world just seals the deal. Sinn T50 - $3,870 James Stacey (@jestacey) is the Lead Editor with Hodinkee, Co-Host of The Grey NATO Podcast, and a hopeless tool watch nerd. Given the $5000 limit meant that I couldn't pick my beloved Tudor Pelagos 39, the final choice was pretty easy for me as I'm a huge fan of the excellent Sinn T50. Essentially a titanium take on the already A+ Sinn U50, the T50 offers a 41mm grade 5 titanium case with a black dial and super-legible sword hands. Paired with either Sinn’s matching bracelet or the brand's recent addition of a two-piece nylon (or heck, one of W.O.E's excellent Five Eye nylon straps) it's a premium sport watch that looks the part and won't get you much in the way of unwanted attention if someone spots it on your wrist. Think of it like a modern Omega Seamaster 2254 but made of titanium and representing all of Sinn's skillset in crafting sporty, well-made, and entirely action-ready watches. Doxa Sub 1200T - $1,990 Benjamin Lowry (@submersiblewrist) is a member of the W.O.E. team, a former commercial diver, and a veteran of the United States Coast Guard. The predecessor to the modern Sub 300T that also made this list, I received my Doxa Sub 1200T as a gift from my wife when we got married in 2015. Heading to commercial diving school shortly thereafter, I decided I would wear the watch in all conditions above and below the water’s surface no matter the repercussions. Today, with a lot of dives under its bracelet, the old Doxa shows no shortage of wear and tear while feeling more like an old friend than any other watch in my collection. With 1200 meters of water resistance, an unused helium escape valve, and a chunky wearing experience, the Sub 1200T is way more capable than I ever was underwater while harkening back to the golden age of tool dive watches. The case back is also engraved with my anniversary so I don’t forget. Tudor Pelagos 39 - $4,700 Watches of Espionage is a former CIA Case Officer turned watch influencer. My pick-up-and-go watch is the Tudor Pelagos 39. While dubbed a smaller version of the 42mm Pelagos, in reality, this is more of a modernized titanium Tudor Submariner than a smaller Pelagos. Titanium is my favorite material for tool watches given its wearability which is, at 39mm, perfect. The bracelet is so comfortable I rarely wear straps with it and the micro adjustments make it comfortable during the summer months.  If the Black Bay 58 and FXD got together and had a baby, it would be the Pelagos 39. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.  Read Next: Advice for Buying a Watch

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Every Watch In Jack Carr’s Red Sky Mourning

Every Watch In Jack Carr’s Red Sky Mourning

Sketchy Breitlings, A Vietnam-Era Rolex, & More Making fun of Navy SEALs writing books is a joke that will never get old.  That said, there...

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Sketchy Breitlings, A Vietnam-Era Rolex, & More Making fun of Navy SEALs writing books is a joke that will never get old.  That said, there have been some great authors to come out of the Teams and Jack Carr is at the top of the list. Carr’s series of novels detailing the adventures of James Reece has become a massive hit, transcending the boundaries of our community to find broader mainstream success including a 2022 television adaptation starring Chris Pratt, The Terminal List. We have discussed watch culture in the SEAL Teams at length and Carr is also a watch enthusiast, with an extensive collection that includes a Rolex Sea-Dweller he wore while serving in the Teams as well as a Tudor Pelagos FXD Black, several Vietnam-era Seikos, an Ares, and more (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) One of the key aspects that makes Carr’s writing compelling is the author’s incredible attention to detail, always doing additional research to describe firearms, gear, and watches in depth. Throughout the series, James Reece, Carr’s protagonist, wears a vintage Rolex Submariner gifted to him by his father, a Vietnam-era SEAL turned CIA Case Officer. In the television adaptation, Reece—portrayed by Chris Pratt—wears several watches including an Oris Aquis Pro Date Calibre 400, Resco Instruments BlackFrog Gen2 Black PVD (an insider told us he wanted to wear a military watch in specific scenes), a G-Shock GA-100-1A1, and a period correct 5.11 Military Tactical Field Ops Watch. Chris Pratt wearing a Resco Instruments BlackFrog Gen2 Black PVD in the television adaptation of The Terminal List. (Photo Credit: Justin Lubin) Carr’s seventh book in the James Reece series, Red Sky Mourning, was released last month. When I read it, I was truly surprised by the number of specific watches mentioned in the text, with one even playing a pivotal role in the plot. I knew Carr was a watch enthusiast, but this new novel shows how far down the rabbit hole the SEAL-turned-author has fallen. If you haven’t checked out the book, be advised: This text contains some spoilers. Elba Industries Breitling Emergency In Red Sky Mourning, at least one watch with a special complication plays an integral role in the plot. Andrew Hart, the dastardly fictional head of the fictional Elba Industries, wears a sketchy Breitling Emergency complete with a co-signed dial featuring Elba’s logo, a golden bee, an homage to co-signed “unit watches” from Breitling including the Blackwater Breitling we have discussed in great detail. Given Carr’s history in the SEAL Teams and working with CIA, it would be reasonable to assume the author has seen a few of these watches in his day. Former Blackwater CEO Erik Prince wearing a Blackwater-signed Breitling Emergency. An analog digital timepiece from Breitling’s golden era producing “watches for professionals”, the Emergency contains an antenna that broadcasts a signal on the 121.5 MHz aircraft emergency frequency when activated. Commercial and military aircraft monitored the frequency and were able to alert search and rescue teams of an individual's location, anywhere in the world. At Red Sky Mourning’s climax, the signal from Hart’s Emergency is used to locate the ne'er-do-well and James Reece, an old-school Rolex guy through and through. Vintage Rolex Submariner A Rolex Submariner reference 5513 from the same era as the Sub worn by James Reece throughout the books. (Photo Credit: Wind Vintage) In the Terminal List series, James Reece is a former US Navy SEAL who has also worked extensively with the Agency. Reece’s father, Tom, was also a SEAL turned CIA Case Officer, having served in the Teams in Vietnam where he purchased the Submariner that also features prominently throughout the series on his son’s wrist. In Red Sky Mourning, James Reece’s Rolex is taken from him by the Chinese intelligence officer Ba Jin who also asks what year the Sub is from. Reece says, “It’s a ’68. You guys had just kicked off your Cultural Revolution a couple of years earlier. How many people did Mao kill in his efforts to purify the Party?” As you’d expect, Reece ends up getting the watch back in a way that does not work out well for Ba Jin. US Navy SEALs in Vietnam wearing Rolex or Tudor Submariners. Given the 1968 timeframe, the Submariner in question is most likely either a non-date chronometer certified 5512 or potentially the non-COSC 5513, both models that are closely associated with Vietnam-era SEALs. It’s also conceivable the watch is a date model 1680 that also offered the red Submariner text at the time that is so coveted by collectors today. While arguably this should have been an issued Tudor Submariner, a classic Rolex Submariner is the perfect choice for a legacy SEAL like Reece that also once again demonstrates the author’s attention to detail and love for horology. Rhodesian Army Roamer Anfibio W.O.E.’s personal Rhodesian Roamer (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In Red Sky Mourning, as he often does, Reece visits the Hastings family, home of his best friend Raife Hastings, a South African-born former SEAL teammate, and his father, Jonathan, who served with the Special Air Service (SAS) and later the famed Rhodesian Selous Scouts. Reaching extremely deep into the annals of military watch history, Carr equips Jonathan with a Roamer Anfibio, a seldom-discussed Swiss watch whose claim to fame is having been issued to the Rhodesian military back in the 1970s. Rhodesian issued Roamer on a leather military "Bund" strap worn by Colonel David “King” Parker, Commanding Officer of the Rhodesian Light Infantry (RLI). Col. Parker is wearing the Roamer, which was common according to pictures from the Bush War. Jonathan Hasting’s history with the Selous Scouts, a special forces component of the Rhodesian Army, makes this watch an excellent and historically accurate choice for Hastings who serves as something of an additional father figure to Reece. What led Roamer, a Swiss brand founded in 1888, to supply the Rhodesian military is one of watch history’s mysteries, but you can’t fault the quality of Carr’s homework. If you have been following this page, you know I've spent a lot of my life living, working, and traveling in Africa, a country with a large number of unique and lesser-known military watches. Interestingly, Hasting’s trajectory closely follows that of a real individual, someone who is not widely known outside of the Intelligence Community. Tianjin Seagull 1963 Chang Zheng is a Chinese Jin-Class Type 094 Submarine featuring  prominently in a cat-and-mouse game with the USS Reagan in the early pages of Red Sky Mourning. In describing her captain, Commander Zhen, Carr says mentions the, “…Tianjin Seagull 1963 watch on his wrist.”, a reference that serves as perhaps the second deepest watch cut in the book after the aforementioned Roamer Anfibio. Known to enthusiasts as simply the “Seagull 1963”, the Chinese-made manual-winding chronograph serves as perhaps the least expensive mechanical chronograph available today, with an ST19 caliber produced in China at Tianjin’s factory with tooling purchased from Switzerland back in the 1950s. A Chinese Jin-Class Type 094 Submarine like the Chang Zheng mentioned in Red Sky Mourning. Initially produced for Chinese Air Force pilots, the Seagull 1963 is an enthusiast-favorite watch because of its attainable price point—typically less than $500—in relation to its complication coupled with a surprisingly well-decorated movement. For a Chinese submarine commander, it also makes a lot of sense given the watch’s military history. Captaining a Chinese submarine likely involves direct inclusion in the communist party. For Commander Zhen to demonstrate his pride in the party by wearing a mechanical watch produced in his country feels dead-on accurate. Rolex Yacht-Master A second watch from the Crown mentioned in the text is the Rolex Yacht-Master, worn by Dr. Lawrence Miles, an avid sailor, former CIA contractor, and the billionaire founder of the Delphi Corporation. Reece goes to Miles’ home in Marin, California to learn more about the motivations behind the nefarious Andrew Hart. During their conversation, Miles describes a meeting he had with Hart and two other sketchy individuals, saying, “I remember they all wore the same watch—Breitling Emergencies. As a sailor you notice things like that,” he said, tapping the white gold Rolex Yacht-Master on his wrist and pointing to the stainless Submariner worn by his guest.” While white gold and platinum are the materials that come to mind first for the Yacht-Master, the new titanium version would also be an interesting pick for Miles’ character. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) Also describing his sailing history, the Yacht-Master is the perfect choice for the billionaire and passionate sailor who spends his days overlooking San Francisco Bay. Unlike many Rolex sport models, there is no full-steel Yacht-Master in the modern catalog, meaning you’re looking at either full-gold, some combination of steel and platinum or steel and gold, or the new titanium variant released earlier this year. Given Miles’ financial situation, we like to think we went full billionaire bling. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.) & Smartwatches In addition to the above-listed mechanical analog watches, Carr also mentions a Timex Ironman in the text, placing the legendary attainable digital watch on the wrist of retired US Army General and current CIA Director Marcus Howe. In the text, Carr writes, “Howe looked down at the Timex Ironman watch that had graced his wrist for most of his time in uniform…” With a thirty-year background in US Army Special Forces, the humble Ironman is an appropriate and pragmatic option for the Agency director. Adding another layer, the Timex Ironman was commonly issued to CIA Paramilitary Officers as well as partner forces including Afghan units. While less key to the plot, smartwatches are also mentioned several times in the text, usually in discussions regarding their vulnerability. We’ve detailed the role and counterintelligence vulnerabilities of the smartwatch in modern espionage, and we appreciate Carr for bringing this element of modern watch culture into the book. Read more about “CIA Officers and Apple Watches” HERE. More than many thriller writers from outside the community, Carr manages to capture both the essential essence and concrete details of life within intelligence and special operations. Viewed from any number of angles and by various enthusiast communities for knives, firearms, tactical equipment, and watches, Carr packs the James Reece sagas with layer upon layer of references and Easter eggs that some will grasp and some won’t, but that’s the fun of it. We often make fun of SEALs, most of whom are authors, and will continue to do so. But Jack Carr has done it the right way, avoiding repetitively rehashing his own GWOT adventures in favor of the larger-than-life story of James Reece that is bolstered by Carr’s personal experience in the field of special operations and espionage. For watch enthusiasts, this level of attention to detail and historical accuracy is the good stuff and only adds another level of intrigue to Carr’s work. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.  Read Next: SOG Seikos - Vietnam MACV-SOG Watches, Part II     Featured Image Credits: Breitling Emergency (Photo Credit: Lunar Oyster), Rolex Submariner 5513 (Photo Credit: Wind Vintage), Roamer Anfibio (Photo Credit: James Rupley)

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US Secret Service Omega Seamaster During Trump's Assassination Attempt

US Secret Service Omega Seamaster During Trump's Assassination Attempt

A Special Unit-Specific Version Of An Iconic Watch Designed For The US Secret Service This past Saturday, a series of gunshots was heard around the...

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A Special Unit-Specific Version Of An Iconic Watch Designed For The US Secret Service This past Saturday, a series of gunshots was heard around the world. Former US President Donald Trump was speaking at a rally in Pennsylvania in support of his upcoming presidential bid when suddenly, he flinched and reached for his right ear as shots rang out. In seconds, the former president’s US Secret Service protective detail took him to the ground, shielding Trump with their bodies as a USSS Counter Sniper Team engaged and killed Thomas Matthew Crooks. As Secret Service agents rushed Trump offstage, a member of his detail was photographed wearing a special unit-specific version of the Omega Seamaster, another example of a member of our community wearing a serious watch in the line of fire. The USSS Omega Seamaster Diver 300 “Unit Watch” on the wrist of an agent on Trump’s protective detail. (Photo Credit: Anna Moneymaker/Getty Images) As a disclaimer, our interest in the watch in no way diminishes the severity of the incident, the injured, or the tragic loss of firefighter Corey Comperatore. The Omega is relatively insignificant here, but timepieces are our prism to view history and current events. By any measurement, this assassination attempt was a security failure and will be investigated. Much of what transpired remains unclear and disinformation and misinformation are rampant. We will not opine on what we think happened and will wait for the details to come to light.  Regardless of the failures this past weekend, the Secret Service is an honorable profession with ranks filled with true professionals. Secret Service Agents are in harm’s way on a daily basis, regularly putting their lives on the line to protect the office of the President and those running for it. It is a zero-fail mission. The good guys have to get it right every single day, the bad guys only have to get it right once.   This article will likely be interpreted by some as political, but to be clear, it is not. On Saturday, July 13th, a timepiece—a special version of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300 designed for the US Secret Service—found itself at the center of a history-making event. We are here to talk about that watch. Omega Seamaster Diver 300 US Secret Service Unit Watch A community submission showing a USSS Omega Seamaster “Unit Watch”. In late 2023, US Secret Service Agents representing multiple field offices and units began taking delivery of a customized version of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300, a model family more closely associated with James Bond. Serving as the primary unit watch within Omega’s catalog, the Secret Service Seamaster differs from the standard version with a no-date format, beige luminescent material, and matte finishing throughout the case and bracelet. On the case back, the Secret Service star is engraved along with “Worthy of Trust and Confidence.” On the bottom of the case, agents can have their commission book number or something else unique to them printed in subtle text. While watches like this are sometimes purchased from a commemorative point of view, many are used as tools, with the pictured Special Agent in Trump’s protective detail providing further evidence. Importantly, this reference is available only to military and law enforcement units, including the US Navy SEALs, Danish Frogman Corps (Frømandskorpset), and other American and European units. Other individuals within the Secret Service including the Counter Assault Team (CAT aka HAWKEYE), which was also present during the assassination attempt, have also purchased the Omega. Of note, other USSS units have special versions of the Tudor LHD Pelagos and certain Breitling references. As is often the case in our community, the US Secret Service has a thriving watch culture. Again, the watch in question does not represent the most important aspect of the events that transpired over the weekend, instead serving as yet another example of how watches are utilized as tools in the daily lives of professionals in the military, intelligence, NatSec, and federal service communities. Thoughts and prayers for all involved in the events over the weekend. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: U.S. Presidents and Timepieces, The Last 40 Years

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The Murky World Of Counterfeit Rolex

The Murky World Of Counterfeit Rolex

Fake Watch Shopping In Istanbul -  A Case Study As a CIA Case Officer operating overseas, you are exposed to the dark side of humanity....

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Fake Watch Shopping In Istanbul -  A Case Study As a CIA Case Officer operating overseas, you are exposed to the dark side of humanity. It is not a career for the faint-hearted and you learn some things they don’t teach in school. He who fights monsters should see to it that in the process he does not become a monster. And if you gaze long enough into an abyss, the abyss will gaze back into you. – Friedrich Nietzsche While the quote is dramatic, there is some merit to it. I didn’t fully realize how abnormal life at CIA was until I separated from the Agency. A byproduct of a career at CIA is a fascination with illicit activity; arms dealers, wildlife trafficking, organized crime, and, now that I am an aspiring watch nerd, counterfeit watches. Fake Watches - A Real-World Case Study Most articles on fake, or “replica” watches cover topics like “How to spot fake Rolex?”, “How much does a fake Rolex cost?”, or “Where to buy a fake Rolex?” These are all interesting topics, but we wanted to go deeper into the counterfeit luxury watch industry.  To do this, I went counterfeit watch shopping in Istanbul, Turkey. There’s nothing like first-hand experience. Counterfeit timepieces are a multi-billion-dollar industry, with shaky estimates indicating between 30 and 50 million fake watches entering the market each year. Contrast that figure with Rolex’s estimated annual production of approximately 1 million pieces per annum; It is reasonable to conclude that there are probably more fake Rolex watches on wrists than there are genuine examples throughout the world. This means that when you see someone wearing a Rolex, statistically speaking, it’s probably fake – a crazy thought. Istanbul - A Counterfeit Watch Mecca During a recent trip to Istanbul, I had a mission: to acquire a “super clone,” or ”superfake” a watch that is nearly indistinguishable from a real thing. Not only are cosmetic traits like the miniature laser-etched Rolex crown on the crystal present but if you take the watch apart, the movement itself is branded Rolex. Even for experienced watchmakers, some of these “super clones” are, all the way down to the movement components, virtually indistinguishable from genuine Rolex. There are differences, of course, but these “super clones” are astonishingly close to the genuine product to the untrained eye. I wanted to see for myself. Rolex crown laser-etched into the crystal, introduced in 2001 to deter counterfeiters. (Photo Credit: Bob’s Watches) Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul's Grand Bazaar is a covered market with over 4,000 shops selling everything from Turkish sweets to clothes and yes, of course, a large selection of counterfeit goods. Entering through the Nuruosmaniye Mosque gate, visitors are overwhelmed with a plethora of shops specifically targeting tourists. The presence of fake watches is immediately apparent and, in contrast to many markets around the world, completely in the open. The watch shopping experience varies depending on the shop but on the higher end is almost like a boutique experience, the only difference being the watches are fake and you can actually buy a “Rolex” rather than be put on a waiting list. They offer tea and coffee, a chair for your bored spouse to sit in, and customer service that exceeds the boutique experience presented by many luxury watchmakers. Interestingly, pictures are generally not discouraged and the sellers are relatively open about the sale of fakes. It isn’t just Rolex, either. Panerai, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and even counterfeit sketchy Breitlings are readily available, with starting (negotiable) prices of around $450. Most of the watches utilize Miyota movements and are, as you might expect, made in China. Pretty much any reference you can imagine is available including the Le Mans Daytona and Titanium Yachtmaster. 2024 Watches and Wonders releases? No worries, they should be available soon. What Is A “Fake” Rolex?  It is important to understand what a fake Rolex is. We have identified three categories of counterfeit Rolex watches to be aware of. Cheap Or Tourist Fakes: These cost somewhere between $50 and $300 and are generally picked up from street vendors in major tourist cities in Europe, South America, the Middle East, and even New York. You used to be able to spot them by their quartz movements which caused the second hand to “tick” instead of sweep, but now they tend to have automatic movements, more accurate details, and better finishing. But, in general, they are still sloppy fakes and you are not fooling anyone who owns a Rolex with this piece unless you are in a dark room. Super Clone or One For One: So-called replica watches, nearly identical to the genuine thing. They can cost over a thousand dollars and rumor has it that even when taken apart, it can be difficult to tell if the watch is genuine or a reproduction. In theory, one could wear a super clone to the local RedBar watch nerd meetup and fool everyone in the room. It’s been rumored that these have even been unknowingly sold by legitimate dealers as well, proving that the only way to know something is real is to buy it from the boutique. Frankenwatches:  A catch-all term used to describe watches that may be made up of parts that have been switched out and/or a real watch with fake parts (replaced bezel, dial, hands, etc…). Some are honest efforts to restore a watch, but more sinister versions are meant to fool prospective buyers. A recent notable example was the “Tropical” Omega Speedmaster Ref. 2915-1 ‘Broad Arrow’ auctioned by Phillips for over $3.4 million. As documented by popular watch blogger Perezcope, the watch itself was a frankenwatch, allegedly cobbled together by insiders with access to the Omega archives.   Tropical” Omega Speedmaster Ref. 2915-1 ‘Broad Arrow’ frankenwatch, sold Phillips for over $3.4 million (Photo Credit: Phillips) Why Are Fake Watches A Problem? At a minimum, fake watches are textbook examples of intellectual property (IP) theft, using the designs and logos that Swiss brands spent millions of dollars developing over decades. Some go as far as to link the sale of counterfeit watches to child labor, sweatshops, and even terrorism, human trafficking, and organized crime. While direct evidence of this is scarce, it is reasonable to assume that a link exists to some extent. That said, the vast majority of the counterfeit industry originates in China and it appears as though the Chinese government at least tacitly supports it and probably has some oversight and regulation. Are Fakes Substitutes For The Real Thing? According to Business Insider, 23.3 million counterfeit watches are circling the US, more than Rolex has sold worldwide in the past 15 years. The logical conclusion is that this hurts Rolex’s bottom line. But are fakes reasonable substitutes? Is Rolex losing potential customers to fake watches? Probably not. The fact is, the type of person that will buy and wear a fake, likely can’t afford the real thing. In other cases, some may buy a fake now and then the real thing as their financial circumstances change. UFC fighter Conor McGregor recently revealed during a GQ Sports interview that he used to wear fake watches to press conferences before he could afford a genuine Rolex. He is now a legitimate customer, owning millions of dollars in Rolex, AP, and Patek. One could argue that in McGregor’s case, the fake Rolex watches served as the “top of the funnel” for Swiss brands. Conor McGregor Wearing a (real?) Rolex Daytona “Eye of the Tiger” Should I Buy A Fake Rolex? We can think of very few legitimate reasons to purchase a fake Rolex, and yes, doing so does ultimately fuel the already insatiable market for these timepieces and potentially provide funding for organized crime syndicates. Further, in some places, it’s illegal to buy and transport fake watches. Our advice is simple, buy the (real) and best watch you can afford. There are plenty of great and legitimate watches on the market that cost less than your iPhone. Real Rolex Sub (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In response to “Trading A Rolex To Get Out Of A Sticky Situation - Myth Or Reality?”, many commenters suggested traveling with a fake Rolex for bartering. The logic may be sound, but if you are really at the point where you have decided to part with a watch worth thousands of dollars, your life is likely on the line and the cost is trivial. Further, whoever you are giving the watch to is presumably in a position of power and likely someone you do not want to piss off should they determine the watch is fake. The potential for this plan to backfire is simply too high. Le Mans Daytona and “Titanium” Yachtmaster - all fakes I have heard of some people with expensive watch collections that have “dummy” displays in their house, the idea being that if someone breaks in to steal their collection, they would take the fake watches without realizing the real collection is hidden in a safe. This is something that could potentially make sense but is not a practice I would advise. If someone goes the distance to specifically target you for your watch collection, they are likely going to be pissed to find out they stole fake watches and may come back for retribution. No watch is worth your life. All that said, I do have a fake Rolex Submariner that I received as a gag gift from a wealthy friend in Dubai. I have never worn it or even taken out the links to make it fit. Who knows, maybe it will come in handy one day. A real Rolex Daytona (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Should I Be Worried About Fake Watches? By some estimates 20-50% of art in museums is fake and even the largest auction houses with significant resources have been duped with fake watches. While the risk of unwittingly buying a modern watch that is fake is real, this is particularly real in the vintage market, where replacement parts and refinishing jobs can result in a “real” watch becoming a frankenwatch. As an individual buyer, you should not be responsible for identifying a fake.  The safest thing to do is to either buy new watches or build a relationship with a seller you not only trust but trust their expertise. The latter is difficult as it can be incredibly difficult to determine which parts are genuine and which are replacements.   Back In Istanbul Despite my best efforts, I was not able to track down a “super clone” in the Grand Bazaar. Many of the vendors claimed to have better quality watches and vigorously sent Whatsapp messages to their colleagues to bring one by, but they never appeared. The fakes in the souk were mediocre at best with loose bezels and crude finishing and claimed Miyota movements. Fun party gags? Maybe, but I didn’t buy one. W.O.E.’s personal fake watch, acquired in Dubai. I did pick up a set of (fake) boxes, papers, and a blank Rolex warranty card to match my gifted counterfeit Rolex. Similar to the watches themselves, the box was crudely crafted and isn't fooling anyone. While I do not advocate for anyone to purchase anything illicit, I did it in the name of science. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The W.O.E. Tudor PVD Pelagos FXD

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Custom G-Shock, Omega, & Tudor - Watches Fit To Guard A King

Custom G-Shock, Omega, & Tudor - Watches Fit To Guard A King

Unit Watches Of The UK’s Royalty and Specialist Protection Despite the rise of inexpensive Digital Tool Watches and feature-rich connected smartwatches, there is an ever-growing...

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Unit Watches Of The UK’s Royalty and Specialist Protection Despite the rise of inexpensive Digital Tool Watches and feature-rich connected smartwatches, there is an ever-growing subset of the military, intelligence, and law enforcement communities with a passion for mechanical or otherwise more interesting timepieces. We’ve discussed so-called “unit watches” in detail many times. However, in this Dispatch, we’ll take a closer look at unit watches from the world of law enforcement, specifically the UK’s Royalty and Specialist Protection (RaSP), an intriguing unit from within the Metropolitan Police’s Specialist Operations directorate. To date, there are three known unit watches from RaSP, a Casio G-Shock from the attainable tier as well as a Tudor and Omega from the world of Swiss luxury, all of which see active service as tools in the performance of the unit’s unique role. Protecting Royals, Politicians, & A Castle Or Two Officers stand guard outside Windsor Castle. (Photo Credit: Maureen McLean) Similar to the role played by the US Secret Service, who are also no strangers to unit watches, RaSP provides close protection services to the UK royal family including the king, the prime minister, various other politicians, ambassadors, and visiting heads of state. In addition, the unit also serves as specially trained armed security for royal residences including palaces in London, Windsor Castle, and other sites in Scotland. Unlike the United States, which has not been ruled by anyone wearing a crown since a kerfuffle ending in 1783, the average police officer in Great Britain doesn’t carry a firearm, making the armed and highly trained RaSP a higher level of protection and response in the event of terrorist attacks or assassination attempts on the Royal Family. Hired from the ranks of experienced frontline police officers as opposed to “off the street”, RaSP officers have been called into action on several prominent occasions. Royal Protection Officers tackle an attacker after an assassination attempt on then-Prince Charles (standing far right) in Sydney in 1994. (Photo Credit: Express UK) Far from idle threats, Royalty Protection Officers engaged in a dramatic shootout during an attempted kidnapping of Princess Anne in 1974 as well as when then-Prince Charles was attacked during a speech in 1994. In recent years, the Duke of Sussex (Netflix calls him Prince Harry) made headlines when he fought to continue his RaSP protection detail even after leaving his royal role and moving to California in 2020. In close protection scenarios, RaSP officers typically wear a suit with a concealed firearm, radio, and less-than-lethal weapons in certain instances. In contrast, officers don a more traditional uniform when providing overt armed protective security at royal residences. This operational duality is reflected in the unit’s choices for customized timepieces. A Custom Full-Metal G-Shock For Royalty Protection Officers The RaSP’s customized GM-B2100BD-1A. (Photo Credit: G-Central) The impetus for this article stems from G-Central, a leader in G-Shock news and information. A few weeks back, we noticed a post covering a unit-specific version of the GM-B2100BD-1A, a full-metal variant of the so-called “CasiOak” that debuted back in 2019. With an analog-digital display and an IP-coated black stainless steel case and bracelet, the RaSP unit variant was spotted on uniformed officers outside Windsor Castle and included a custom United Kingdom flag integrating a Thin Blue Line motif on the clasp as well as a special XIV engraving on the bracelet. The XIV references the SO14, the former name of the Royalty Protection Department that merged with SO1 or Specialist Protection to become the modern RaSP in 2015. On the case back, the watch offered an engraved image of Windsor Castle. Judging by the wear across the case and bracelet on the watches spotted by G-Central, the Royalty Protection Officers use these tools in performing their duties, with the G-Shock serving as an excellent pairing with the more utilitarian uniform worn by the unit in this instance. While we always hear about G-Shock in military and law enforcement scenarios, customized unit versions are rare and in this case, pretty cool. A custom caseback and clasp engraving for the RaSP G-Shock. (Photo Credit: G-Central) Rather than an officially sanctioned unit watch, these G-Shock models appear to have been a smaller unofficial unit purchase only for members of Windsor Castle’s protective detail. With that in mind, the G-Shocks do not expressly display “RaSP”, instead using XIV as a reference to the unit’s history. For more refined scenarios including providing close protection for royals during public events, RaSP also has a couple of interesting official watches from more luxurious brands in its stable. Omega Planet Ocean For Royalty Protection Officers Known for recently providing customized versions of the Seamaster Diver 300 to US Navy SEALs, Danish Frogmen, and the US Secret Service, Omega also produced a very rare unit version of its Seamaster Planet Ocean for RaSP, designing the piece with input from the unit in 2018 with delivery of approximately 60 units taking place in 2020. From the front, the watch looks identical to civilian market versions. On the case sides, the watches are engraved with the officer’s initials, warrant number, and watch issue number, marking the only time we’ve seen engravings on the case side of a unit-customized Omega. In addition, the sapphire exhibition case back is emblazoned with a two-part emblem consisting of a crown representing the royalty side of the branch as well as a portcullis signifying the specialist side tasked with protecting government ministers and other dignitaries. In addition, the caseback's outer perimeter references the previous unit designations used by those departments that merged to eventually become RaSP. SO14 and SO1 we've already touched on, which were in existence until 2015, however SO12(A) was an earlier forerunner on the ministerial side. The Shield Protects The Crown (Photo Credit: Bob’s Watches) The phenomenon of Tudors of Espionage (T.O.E.) is nothing new, with the shield having provided special unit versions of many of its core models to various military and governmental organizations. Around 2017 or 2018, the unit commissioned 75 Tudor Black Bay Blue for current and former members of the unit through Watches of Switzerland. A Tudor rose with a crown on top is on the dial, representing an intriguing mashup between Tudor the watch brand’s rose logo—seen on the crown on this reference—and the traditional heraldic rose that often serves as an emblem of England. The case back is engraved with “ROYALTY & SPECIALIST PROTECTION”, an individual's identification number, and serialized one through 75. Photo Credit: Bob’s Watches (Left) & Ross Povey (Right) Like other special watches commissioned for military or government units, several of these RaSP Tudor Black Bay have made their way into private civilian hands by way of prominent auction houses and aftermarket resellers asking for prices as high as $30,000. One special example produced for Queen Elizabeth II’s Platinum Jubilee in 2022 hammered for a staggering CHF 81,900, about $91k in today’s US dollars. These very public sales—one of which occurred around the time of The Queen's funeral—resulted in a change of policy from the department's senior leadership sometime in 2023, and there have been no newly developed official RaSP unit watches since. That’s why the above-mentioned G-Shock was produced on a smaller team-specific scale without RaSP markings. While we are not here to condemn unit members looking to turn a profit on personalized watches they likely never imagined would attain such value, we prefer to see these in the hands of the operators themselves, carrying forward the Use Your Tools ethos. Dual Purpose Tools While we typically concentrate on unit watches related to the military and intelligence community, there is clearly a significant community of watch enthusiasts in law enforcement and first responders. Unit watches like those produced for the UK’s Royalty Protection Officers serve a dual purpose role, acting as tools in the performance of their daily missions while also serving as keepsakes honoring their service both during and after the fact. Seeing such a wide swath of watchmaking within the Royalty Protection community, from a $500 G-Shock to luxury models from Omega and Tudor, further solidifies that our community is oriented around the capabilities and intrigue of the tool rather than flex culture. If you have other interesting unit watches to share, you know where to find us. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: U.S. Presidents and Timepieces, The Last 40 Years

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Which Watch Would James Bond Really Wear?

Which Watch Would James Bond Really Wear?

Picking More Reasonable Timepieces For History's Most Famous Secret Agent When it comes to Watches of Espionage, James Bond is the elephant in the room....

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Picking More Reasonable Timepieces For History's Most Famous Secret Agent When it comes to Watches of Espionage, James Bond is the elephant in the room. While there is a significant gap between real-world intelligence operations and Hollywood's depiction, Ian Fleming’s character has had an indelible impact on our community’s watch culture. We know several real “spies” who purchased an Omega or Rolex because of the Bond connection. Even before the legendary films, 007 was already closely linked to the world of horology. Fleming, the legendary author behind Bond, even went so far as to name names, calling out a “Rolex Oyster Perpetual” in his 1954 novel, Live and Let Die while unfortunately failing to identify a specific model. Likely inspired by Fleming’s reference 1016 Explorer, many regard the James Bond of the literary world as an Explorer man as well. However, 1962’s Dr. No, the secret agent’s first foray into film, would forever alter Bond’s history with Rolex, with Sean Connery serving up a full-screen wrist shot of a Submariner reference 6538. Beyond a few abbreviated sojourns into other brands including Breitling, Seiko, and Hamilton, the Bond of film was primarily a Rolex guy until 1995’s GoldenEye where Irish actor Pierce Brosnan famously wore an Omega Seamaster Professional, a seismic shift for watch enthusiasts. In the Dispatch, we’ve argued for tradition in favor of The Crown in the past with an excellent counter-argument coming from Caleb Daniels in favor of Omega, which remains Bond’s chosen brand. It’s a fun debate, but what watch would a former British SpecOps turned “Secret Agent” really wear? Bond’s Rolex Submariner 6538 in Dr. No and the OMEGA Seamaster Professional in GoldenEye are both icons, but what if they’re not the right picks?  Taking a step back, there’s a good chance a real “secret agent" using their license to kill on MI6’s behalf wouldn’t wear a luxury watch at all. With the most up-to-date Rolex Submariner Date reference 126610 coming in at $10,250 (assuming you can get one) and Omega’s 007 Edition No Time To Die Seamaster priced right at ten grand US, the biggest issue here is probably cost taking into account Bond’s role as a civil servant. Add to that the ostentatious nature of these heavily-branded luxury watches for a guy who would probably prefer a low profile, and some other timepieces just might be better suited to Bond’s profession. In addition, we'd argue our Bond would also favor British watchmaking brands, with more great options than ever before coming from the UK. In this Dispatch, we’ll share our picks for which watch we think our more reasonable 007 would wear. CWC SBS Diver Issue Price: $750  Given Bond’s insurmountable Britishness, we would argue it makes sense to look at brands with strong ties to the Empire as well as the Ministry of Defense (MOD). The obvious choice is a brand with a strong following in the W.O.E. community, CWC or Cabot Watch Company, which was founded in 1972 for no reason other than supplying the MOD. For maritime specialist units including the Royal Marines and Special Boat Service, CWC has long supplied the SBS Diver Issue, a PVD-coated descendant of the original Royal Navy Diver’s watch that succeeded the Rolex Military Submariner in 1980. We know several former British SBS members who still have, and wear, their issued SBS, making this a logical watch for Bond. Robert 'Bob' Hawkins (1961-2023) was a legend in the Mine Warfare Clearance Diving community. Like Bond, Hawkins was a Commander in the Royal Navy and is seen here wearing the CWC SBS Diver Issue. With 300 meters of water resistance, the utility offered by day and date functions, and excellent legibility, the SBS Diver Issue is an excellent option for the modern British secret agent whether he’s doing some Thunderball-style diving combat or simply keeping a lower profile. Fixed lug bars mean Bond is stuck with pull-through straps, but for a secret agent who inspired a namesake nylon strap color scheme, it shouldn’t be a problem.  Vertex M100A Price: $2,625  For a more old-school look that also leans into the literary Bond who many argue wore a Rolex Explorer, we have the Vertex M100A. Dating back to 1912, Vertex is another brand closely associated with the Ministry of Defense, having produced watches for the British military as early as the First World War. Of the twelve manufacturers of the legendary “Dirty Dozen” watches produced for the Allied war effort in World War II, Vertex was the only British option, with the modern M100A calling back to that history with its core design while making room for more modern watchmaking standards and specifications. But what does James Bond have to do with a WWII field watch, you may ask? (Photo Credit: WatchGecko) Thunderball aside, the vast majority of Bond’s adventures both tactical and otherwise have taken place in the dry, and we might argue some of the key elements of a perfect Bond watch would be—even more than water resistance—legibility, durability, and the timeless style so often associated with Bond’s on-screen portrayals. Compared to something like the aforementioned blacked-out CWC, the Vertex would also be a lot easier to wear with a tux.  Elliot Brown Holton Professional Price: $541 Where the CWC SBS celebrates its history of issue to the Special Boat Service in both name and marketing, the Holton Professional from Elliot Brown takes a more subtle approach to its special operations associations. Founded in 2013, the founding principle of Elliot Brown’s collection is durability, with many of the watches finding favor within the British Military. Based in Poole, the elite Special Boat Service approached Elliot Brown in 2015 to help design a watch for the unit to issue. The result was the Holton Professional, a watch that has earned an NSN or Nato Stock Number making it available for official issue to military forces. Coming from another British brand, and with a quartz movement, hardened stainless steel bezel, and C3 Super-LumiNova, the Holton also presents a solid option for someone like Bond who is likely to be harder on his watches than most. For deep nerds, Bond has an entirely imagined special operations background, meaning Commander Bond may have either been issued the Holton Professional or purchased a special version as part of a smaller unit-specific order. Bremont S302 Price $4,200  Currently the subject of some well-deserved controversy regarding a recent rebranding effort, Bremont is still among our top picks for James Bond. Despite its foundations in aviation, Bremont also boasts an impressive array of diving-oriented watches under the Supermarine name. For a more luxurious option compared to some of the other watches we’ve highlighted, we select the S302 for Bond, a watch that combines 300 meters of water resistance with the useful addition of a GMT function. Where some of our choices thus far are more utilitarian and even tactical, Bremont manages to straddle the line, feeling just almost as at home with a suit from Savile Row as it does with a wetsuit, no mean feat. The S302’s GMT is particularly appropriate as well. As we discussed in our Dispatch unpacking Zulu Time, having a second timezone at a glance provides tremendous upside for an asset coordinating with a broader multi-agency effort. Besides, Bremont is one of the few companies that has actually made a unit watch for the British Secret Intelligence Service.  Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 Price: $1,095 Long scolded as a microbrand rehashing established designs, Christopher Ward has stepped up massively in recent years and is another brand with a strong following in the W.O.E. community, at an affordable price point. For a government employee like James Bond, the price of the C60 Trident Pro, one of Christopher Ward’s marquee dive watches, is fair. Add to that the watch’s solid water resistance and legible dial format and we have another under-the-radar pick for Bond. Adding an element of legitimacy, Christopher Ward has been quietly collaborating with numerous military units in recent years. Despite solid finishing for the price range, the Trident isn’t ostentatious and doesn’t advertise to prying eyes or invite further scrutiny. Bamford London GMT Price: $1,500  Better known for Bamford Watch Department’s watch customizations and collaborations with established watchmakers from the luxury tier, George Bamford also produces a more attainable line of wholly designed watches under the Bamford London moniker. Assuming our modern Bond was a man of more avant-garde styling who rubbed shoulders with Eton graduates, something like the Bamford London GMT could make a lot of sense.  Available in a wide array of dial colors, Bamford’s GMT is housed within a reasonable 40mm case complete with an internal rotating GMT bezel that obviates the risk of accidentally changing the secondary timezone on display. For the $1,500 asking price, Bond also gets an excellent bracelet, 100 meters of water resistance, as well as a sub-12mm case height that should work as well with a tuxedo as it would with a woolen commando sweater.  Arken Alterum Price: $750  A true microbrand at this stage, Arken presents a wild card choice for Bond. Housed within a scratch-resistant titanium case, the Alterum, the second watch from the brand, fuses GMT functionality with 200 meters of water resistance and a design format that is a lot further afield than many of our previous choices. Admittedly, the Alterum dial serves up a lot of information including the second time zone, managed by a GMT hand, as well as a date sub-register and an intriguing day/night indicator executed with a pair of apertures on the dial’s lower half. Despite the additional complexity, the overall effect is clean, subtle, and the kind of thing Bond could easily wear in virtually any environment without anyone asking too many questions.  Final Thoughts For the diehard Rolex and Omega James Bond fanboys, the picks in this Dispatch may be blasphemous. We invite you to submit your counterarguments in the comments. In any counterpoints, it's important to remember that for intelligence professionals like Bond, watches are, first and foremost, a tool. While there is a significant watch luxury watch culture in espionage, it’s not so hard to imagine a real-life James Bond might benefit from a watch that won’t get him mugged by some scooter-riding London street toughs. As for Bond's strap of choice, we'd argue 007 would do his best work with a Five Eye (FVEY). -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Does Rolex Make Mistakes? The Motley 8 - Error Batman Bezel

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Watches Worn By Pilots Of The D-Day Squadron

Watches Worn By Pilots Of The D-Day Squadron

Crossing The Atlantic In A DC-3 To Commemorate The 80th Anniversary Of Operation Overlord  Watches intended for pilots represent one of the most compelling categories...

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Crossing The Atlantic In A DC-3 To Commemorate The 80th Anniversary Of Operation Overlord  Watches intended for pilots represent one of the most compelling categories in the arena of tool watches, only matched in enthusiast appeal by watches designed for diving. Pilots are, for lack of a better term, cool. And in the realm of flying, it’s difficult to imagine a cooler undertaking than piloting 1940s aircraft over the Atlantic to commemorate the 80th anniversary of D-Day. This is the mission of the D-Day Squadron, an intrepid group of enthusiasts, crew, and commercial and general aviation pilots tasked with flying vintage Douglas C-47s and DC-3s back to Normandy where they changed the course of history eight decades ago. As we have often described, pilots have a close relationship with timepieces, and in this Dispatch we’ll take a closer look at the watches these pilots wore while hand-wheeling 80-year-old aircraft across the Atlantic, battling arctic cold with no autopilot and only marginal heating systems. Despite the desperate need for sponsorship dollars to keep these vintage aircraft in operational condition, no watch brand jumped at the opportunity in this case, meaning the watches were a direct result of the preferences, personal choices, and stories of the pilots. As a professional photographer and amateur watch enthusiast, I was honored by the opportunity to ride along and document the journey, the watches, and more importantly, the stories behind them.  To the readers of W.O.E., it may not come as a surprise that the most common brand on the wrists of these pilots was Breitling. No matter how you slice it, flying 80-plus-year-old radial-engined airplanes across the Atlantic is sketchy—the good kind of sketchy. That said, smartwatches were also a common sight, and many pilots had opted not to wear a watch at all, but we’re not here to talk about them.  Breitling Emergency One of the pilots on C-47 Placid Lassie wore an orange-dialed Breitling Emergency with the brand’s Co-Pilot module, essentially a miniature digital watch integrated into the bracelet and capable of tracking UTC and flight time while also providing another chronograph. Pilots love redundancies. Frequently flying older aircraft, the pilot appreciated the utility of the Emergency, knowing that, as long as he could activate the watch’s signal in the event of a crash, his body would be found and returned to his family. His Emergency was one of the first sold in the US, something the pilot was proud of, representing his 20-year connection to Breitling that all started with a B1.  Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer The youngest pilot on the crossing was flying with his father, the D-Day Squadron chief pilot. The son wore a newly acquired watch, a Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer he picked up because he was tired of changing the batteries on his former quartz Timex. After initially deciding against what was for him an expensive mechanical watch, the young pilot ultimately decided to pull the trigger to commemorate a series of events: getting his type rating as a C-47 co-pilot, his first solo flight in a Twin Beach, and of course, the transatlantic crossing side-by-side with his father for D-Day 80. Omega Speedmaster Another pilot onboard D-Day veteran Placid Lassie was wearing an Omega Speedmaster he plans to give to his son one day. After losing a watch in the gym, he spent an entire year deciding which watch to get as a replacement. When his son was born, he decided it was time for something significant: “I like to buy one nice thing and keep that.” Influenced by the Speedy’s history in rally racing, the watch’s celebrated role in the Apollo missions, and its broader significance in aviation, he selected the Omega Speedmaster, purchasing a brand new example with the goal of adding his own patina over the years before gifting the watch to his son. The veteran pilot said he wears the watch for literally everything he does, including all of his travels, flying airplanes old and new (Douglas C-47s, Boeing 737s, and the North American T-6, a WWII Trainer), swimming in the ocean, sailing, and more. With only one service to date, he said the watch gets excellent marks for reliability. Before parting, he mentioned, “I’d love to have a Rolex, but I don’t know if it is for me.” Timex Expedition Chronograph  The loadmaster for C-47 Placid Lassie wore a simple Timex Chronograph. He admitted to not knowing too much about watches but picked this one because of its military look and the way the olive-drab color scheme matched the aircraft he helps care for.  Breitling Aviator 8 Curtiss Warhawk P-40 & Other Assorted Breitling Models  Purchased only three weeks before the crossing, the Douglas A-26 Invader Million Airess was late to the party, bringing with it the highest concentration of interesting watches I experienced during the trip. An owner of many luxury watches, he chose his most meaningful for the flight, a serial number 3 Breitling Aviator 8 Curtiss Warhawk P-40 that was also the first example sold in the United States. The watch commemorated a friend, the late Ollie Crawford who flew Curtiss P-40s during the war. A longtime friend of the brand, Crawford, who passed in 2019, was prominently featured in Breitling marketing over the years.  The pilot and owner described himself as a bit of a Breitling fan, even going as far as securing watches for the entire crew to wear for the historic flight including a modern Avenger, a Colt Skyracer, and two iterations of the Emergency. As previously mentioned, the Emergency models take on an even more significant role on a transatlantic flight done the old-school way.  Vaer C5 Tactical Field Solar  When asked about his all-black field watch, a Spirit of Douglas co-pilot said he simply wanted a dependable watch requiring no maintenance, eventually selecting an inexpensive solar-charging Vaer C5 for the crossing. After some prying, he also shared the story of his most meaningful watch, a 1975 Omega Speedmaster gifted to him by his grandfather after completing flight training. Remaining the source of great meaning many years later, the old Speedy served as a sign of approval after his grandfather initially criticized his decision to become a pilot. For fear of damaging such a significant family heirloom, he elected not to bring the Speedmaster along for the transatlantic journey.  Breitling Navitimer  One of the watches most concretely linked to aviation, it was no surprise to see a Breitling Navitimer on the wrist of one of the pilots of the UK-based C-47 Drag-em-oot. Also the owner of one of the Navitimers that went around the world onboard a DC-3 for a publicity stunt some years back, this is one he typically wears, making it the watch on his wrist for this historic event.  Praesidus C-47 D-Day  Another watch story from the trip that is worth telling but unrelated to the aircraft crossing is that of the Praesidus C-47 D-Day, a field watch with a dial made from the doors of a vintage C-47 present on D-Day. The watches were gifted to D-Day veterans present for the 80th-anniversary ceremony. The veterans seemed to appreciate them. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: Covert Influence in Watch Media About the Author: René is an aviation photographer and writer from Germany focusing on vintage aircraft and warbirds. He has followed the W.O.E. blog from the very beginning with a keen interest in tool watches. All photos are credited to @romeolimaphoto. 

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An Overview Of The Watches Of Espionage Strap Collection

An Overview Of The Watches Of Espionage Strap Collection

Materials, History, Fit, & Which Strap Is Right For You One of the most common ways for members of our community to customize their watches...

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Materials, History, Fit, & Which Strap Is Right For You One of the most common ways for members of our community to customize their watches is with a new strap that is, in either material or design, more appropriate for austere conditions. Over the past couple of years, we have grown our strap collection to include more refined options made from domestically sourced leather and more attainable choices designed to excel in the most extreme scenarios. We are often asked what is the best strap for a given use case, and in this Dispatch, we’ll provide an overview of our strap collection including some pros and cons, historical and design background, and recommendations based on some of the questions we are most commonly asked. As always, everything we make is developed for the quiet professional, someone who appreciates the history of Intelligence and Special Operations and honors those who came before us. W.O.E. Fabric Straps Closely associated with military watches, pull-through fabric watch straps trace their origins to the mid-century when they were utilized by American and British armed forces, with the most popular format tracing dating back to 1973 and a British Military design known as the G10. Commonly issued to the British Ministry of Defense, the G10 also cemented the formula for the majority of nylon watch straps to follow. In starting our collection of fabric watch straps, we partnered with veteran-owned and UK-based Zulu Alpha Straps to create the most premium fabric straps possible which are also manufactured in Great Britain. Then, to provide a more attainable alternative that also conforms to the obsessive quality standards of our community, we designed the Five Eye nylon strap that we believe is the best on the market for the price. Five Eye Nylon Watch Strap - $35-38 Named after the intelligence-sharing alliance of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, the United Kingdom, and the United States, the Five Eye (FVEY) Nylon Watch Strap is our modern take on the iconic British Military G10 design from 1973. This collection is more attainable compared to our Zulu Alpha collaborations while still providing a premium wearing experience and unrivaled durability for a watch of this style. The Five Eye is built from a custom matte woven material with a reinforced stitched tip and is complete with our custom stainless steel hardware. We didn’t reinvent the wheel but did take the original design to the next level with modern materials, manufacturing standards, and colors tailored to the unique needs of our community. To suit a wider variety of watches, we offer solid colors, striped variants, and Five Eye straps with black-coated PVD hardware, all in 20 and 22-mm sizes that will fit wrists from 6.25 to 9 IN (15.9 to 22.9 CM). Of note, like all “affordable” nylon straps, these are produced in Asia. Cons: With almost four hundred five-star reviews, the Five Eye doesn’t have a lot of cons, but like any nylon strap, the look isn’t elegant or refined and wouldn’t be a great pairing for dressier watches. ORDER HERE Glomar Explorer - Hook And Loop Watch Strap - $47 Modeled off traditional hook-and-loop dive watch straps, the Glomar Explorer is a premium single-pass adjustable adventure strap for those who use their watches as tools. We set out to create a premium “hook and loop” watch strap, something that many consider an oxymoron. After many iterations over a six-month period and extensive testing, we finally came up with the design of the Glomar Explorer. We developed an ultra-thin custom matte weave nylon construction, a custom 316L stainless steel engraved buckle, and a strap keeper to ensure the watch remains secure on your wrist. The Glomar Explorer is available in two lengths, Short (for wrists between 5.5 to 6.5 IN/14 to 16.5 CM) and Standard (for wrists between 6.5 to 8.5 IN/16.5 to 21.5 CM), and in two colors: black and admiralty grey with olive green coming soon. The strap name is derived from USNS Hughes Glomar Explorer, a deep-sea drillship platform that was used by the CIA to recover a Soviet submarine K-129 in the Pacific Ocean in 1974. To be clear, this is not your grandpa’s Walmart hook and loop strap. Cons: With a casual and utilitarian look, a hook and loop strap simply isn’t going to be for everyone. Sizing will also be an issue for some as the wearing experience will depend on the lug length of the watch in question, wrist size, and how tightly the strap is worn.  ORDER HERE Single Pass Zulu Alpha Strap 4.0 - $145 It’s crazy to think we’re on the fourth iteration of our collaboration with Zulu Alpha, one of the world’s premier makers of fabric straps and a supplier of other webbing items to the British Ministry of Defense (MOD). Back in 2022, we started with the 1.0, with each subsequent variant incorporating color changes and small upgrades inspired by the community. Our Single Pass Zulu Alpha 4.0 is the culmination of everything we’ve learned working with Zulu Alpha and direct feedback from end users. Completely constructed in Great Britain, the 4.0 is 11.8 IN (30 CM) long, 1.2mm thick, and complete with a uniquely adhered patch with the W.O.E. Spearhead logo. Secured by way of an over-engineered stainless steel buckle that is also available with a PVD finish, the 4.0 is available in both 20 and 22-mm widths and will fit the vast majority of adult wrists. If you’re looking for the most premium, capable, and durable fabric strap on the market, this is it, full stop. Cons: Every aspect of our Zulu Alpha straps is ultra-premium, produced entirely in the UK, and designed without compromise. The price reflects our no-holds-barred approach to a fabric watch strap for the most extreme conditions. ORDER HERE USA Five Eye - Third Option Foundation - $40 While it’s otherwise the same as our standard Five Eye Straps, our USA Third Option Foundation Fundraiser offers the most eye-catching visual format in our entire collection with a subtle play on the red, white, and blue color scheme. Benefitting CIA paramilitary officers and their families, $20 (50%) of every USA Five Eye sale goes directly to Third Option Foundation. Just as at home sipping PBR in your local dive bar as it is sailing the Cape on your dad’s catamaran, the USA Stripe Five Eye is the undisputed strap of summer. Available in both 20 and 22mm, the USA Five Eye can also be purchased with PVD hardware, a look works a lot better than we thought it would. Cons: Celebrating freedom and donating to charity aren’t for everyone.  This strap is a limited edition. Once it’s gone, it’s gone. ORDER HERE W.O.E Leather Straps While there is a lot of virtue signaling and overstated marketing language associated with goods that are “Made in America”, supporting small businesses in the United States is in line with our core beliefs as a community. This is especially true when it comes to leather goods. There is no shortage of reasonably high-quality leather straps imported from Asia, but we believe the finest leather straps come from right here in the USA or, in some cases, Europe.  With that in mind, our collection of leather straps is entirely produced by hand in small batches from the finest quality materials in the United States or Europe, with each strap demonstrating subtle differences and the ability to patina over time for a custom look and feel. Like all leather straps, these are not your best options for use in or around water but do provide a durable and handsome pairing for field watches, vintage divers on desk duty, or any other refined watch in your collection. Jedburgh Leather Watch Strap - $115 Named after the Jedburgh teams of the Office of Strategic Services (OSS), “The Jedburgh” was W.O.E’s first leather strap, handmade in the USA with American-made English bridle leather. Available to fit 20 and 22-mm lugs, the Jedburgh is complete with a subtle W.O.E. Spearhead stamp at the tip, white hand stitching throughout, and a buckle available in either polished stainless steel or black-coated PVD. The Jedburgh is designed to break in for a comfortable custom fit that is best for wrists between 5.75 to 7.5 IN (14.6 to 19.1 CM). For a refined look, the Jedburgh also tapers 4 millimeters from the lugs to the buckle, meaning the buckle measures 16mm on the 20mm strap and 18mm for the 22mm variant. Cons: Tapering from 20 to 16mm and shorter than some of our straps, the Jedburgh is not the best choice for larger wrists or heavier watches. While we’ve seen some of you guys push the envelope, the Jedburgh is also not the best option for extreme use i.e. jumping out of airplanes. ORDER HERE Horween Leather and Canvas Strap - $185 Produced in the United States in extremely limited quantities, our Leather and Canvas Strap pairs Horween leather tanned in Chicago with repurposed camouflage canvas from surplus military uniforms. These robust straps were designed by W.O.E. in collaboration with Greg Stevens Design, one of the best in the custom leather strap business, and manufactured by hand in Utah. Available in 20 and 22-mm widths, the Leather and Canvas strap is thicker than the Jedburgh and does not taper, making this strap an excellent choice for heavier watches while being designed to fit wrist sizes between 6.25 to 7.75 IN (15.9 to 19.7 CM). Given our use of repurposed military uniforms, this strap also offers a wide range of variation in terms of the actual color and condition of the canvas material. Complete with a signed stainless steel buckle, the Leather and Canvas Strap is a more rugged leather option ideally suited for larger watches and larger wrists. Cons: Manufactured without taper and with a less subtle look compared to many of our straps, our Leather and Canvas Strap is unapologetically extreme and therefore not for everyone. ORDER HERE Leather Single Pass Zulu - $92 Our newest leather strap, the Leather Single Pass Zulu is intended to serve as a bridge between our leather strap collection and the legendary nylon pull-through straps long favored by military members and divers. Manufactured in the United States from a single layer of premium cowhide measuring 1.4mm thick, the Leather Single Pass Zulu also provides a “pull up” effect meaning the leather lightens when stretched or creased, creating a custom finish unique to your wearing experience. In comparison to many nylon pull-through straps, the tail on our Single Pass Zulu is shorter, and the hardware is closer together, designed for wrists up to 7.5 IN (19.1 CM). With hand stitching and more rugged leather material, the Single Pass Zulu is our most casual leather strap, pairing well with utilitarian tool watches.  Cons: Despite being modeled after nylon straps designed for diving, this leather strap is not intended for in-water use. Wearing leather straps on dive watches is a controversial topic, anyway.  ORDER HERE Final Thoughts:  While we believe there is a strap in our collection that will work for virtually any watch or scenario, like choosing a new watch, strap selection is highly individual and personal. There is no one-size-fits-all solution and like with any tool, we encourage you to experiment and find out what works best for you. Subsequent iterations of our straps will always be informed by your feedback. Be sure to let us know what you think.  View our entire strap collection HERE.

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Precision In Flight: IWC’s Historical & Enduring Bond With Military Aviation

Precision In Flight: IWC’s Historical & Enduring Bond With Military Aviation

As a CIA Case Officer, one of my go-to watches was an IWC Mark XVII. It’s a great and versatile watch that can fit in...

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As a CIA Case Officer, one of my go-to watches was an IWC Mark XVII. It’s a great and versatile watch that can fit in with a suit and tie at a diplomatic function in Europe or jeans and a dirty t-shirt in the African bush. Notably, IWC also has a strong squadron watch program and a significant following in the aviation community around the world.  To document a first-hand perspective, we asked Nic Barnes, an Australian military pilot, to write a Dispatch on the history of the brand and his experience using IWC watches as a military aviator. This piece is co-written with Henry Black, a previous W.O.E. contributor and full-time journalist based in Australia. As always, this content is not sponsored and the views and perspectives are of the authors. At W.O.E., we are brand agnostic but do support any brand that supports our community. Precision In Flight: IWC’s Historical & Enduring Bond With Military Aviation IWC’s Special Pilot’s Watch Ref. IW436. (Photo Credit: IWC) International Watch Company (IWC) Schaffhausen is a watchmaker steeped in history. Their modern line of luxury tool watches are direct descendants of the company’s military aviation watches of the mid-20th Century.  IWC Schaffhausen’s history with pilot’s watches predates World War II. In 1936, the company was owned by Ernst Homberger who had two sons that were keen amateur pilots. The boys helped to produce the Special Pilot’s Watch (Ref. IW436) using their flying experience to dictate the specifications and requirements of the timepiece. The design established the foundational DNA for IWC’s future pilot’s watches with an emphasis on legibility and durability that would in time lead to two distinct watch families - the ‘Big Pilot’ and ‘Mark’ series. Watches Of War During WWII, the United Kingdom’s Ministry of Defence (MoD) identified a requirement to replace the aging Army Trade Pattern (ATP) watches that had adorned the wrists of their troops since 1939. These new timepieces needed to be waterproof, shockproof, and highly accurate with a black dial, legible Arabic numerals, and the ability to read the watch at night. Twelve Swiss watchmakers took on the task of manufacturing these W.W.W. (‘Wrist Watch Waterproof’) specification watches. As one of the 12 makers, IWC provided an estimated 5,000 – 6,000 ‘Dirty Dozen’ timepieces to the MoD. The design would later evolve into the IWC Mark 11 – introduced after the war in the late 1940s.  IWC’s W.W.W. is one of the rarer ‘Dirty Dozen’ watches in circulation today. (Photo Credit: Watch-Site x Steltman Watches) Interestingly, while IWC was supplying W.W.W. watches to Commonwealth forces, it was concurrently supplying the German Luftwaffe (Air Force) with ‘B-Uhr’ timepieces. These onion-crowned watches were over 50mm in size and featured sword hands along with a prominent triangle and paired dots marking the 12 o’clock position. Much of the design DNA in today’s IWC Pilot’s line-up can be seen in these oversized pilot’s watches for the Luftwaffe with IWC’s modern Big Pilot’s watches drawing their aesthetics directly from the Luftwaffe B-Uhrs. Of note, IWC supplied watches to both the Axis and the Allies during WWII. IWC produced approximately 1,000 B-Uhr models for the Luftwaffe (Photo Credit: SJX) War Reaches Schaffhausen WWII did not leave IWC’s hometown of Schaffhausen unscathed. In April 1944 a disorientated U.S. Air Force bomber group of 15 B-24 Liberators mistook the Swiss town for a German target. Dropping as many as 371 high explosive bombs and incendiary munitions on the town, the resulting carnage killed 40 people (including members of author Henry’s own family) and caused widespread damage. One bomb dropped through the roof of the IWC factory but luckily did not explode.  A B-24 Liberator of the 392nd Bomb Group that accidentally bombed Schaffhausen in 1944. (Photo Credit: United States Army Air Force) Interestingly, declassified correspondence from November 1944 gives further insight into such incidents. Director of Office of Strategic Services (OSS), William J. Donovan describes to Commander of the United States Army Air Forces, General Henry H. Arnold that the accidental American bombing of Swiss towns was deeply disturbing the Chief of Staff of the Swiss Army and increasing ‘the difficulty in obtaining Swiss cooperation in our present task of penetrating Germany’. Mark 11 – A New Standard in Military Aviation Timepieces After the war, IWC introduced their navigator's wristwatch Mk.11 - Stores Ref. 6B/346 (Mark 11), taking the basic principles of the tough tool watch that was the W.W.W. and upping the ante. The Mark 11 removed the sub-seconds and utilized an IWC Calibre 89 manual wind movement with a central seconds. It featured a Faraday cage to resist magnetic interference and proved to be immensely capable as a timepiece for military aviators. These watches were issued to Commonwealth Air Forces, including the Royal Air Forces of Great Britain, Australia, New Zealand, the South African Air Force, and the British Overseas Airways Corporation (BOAC). IWC Mark 11 for the Royal Australian Air Force circa 1957 (Photo Credit: IWC) Neo-Classic IWC Military-Inspired Models The design of the Mark 11 (which was in production from 1949-1953 with a second iteration for the civilian market from 1973-1984) went on to influence the ‘Mark’ timepieces that followed, specifically the Mark XII (introduced in 1994) and Mark XV (introduced in 1999). These subsequent iterations utilized a similar handset design including the iconic ‘block’ hour hand and classical sizing – the Mark XII was 36mm, and the Mark XV was 38mm. The Mark XII used a Jaeger Le-Coultre calibre while the Mark XV used a heavily modified ETA 2892-A2. The Mark XV was the last of the Mark series to feature the ‘block’ hour hand (Photo Credit: Henry Black) The Mark XVI represented a turning point in IWC’s modern pilot designs – one that has continued to the current Mark XX. While retaining their commitment to solid specifications, the numeral font, dotted triangle marker at 12, and use of flieger sword hands have far more in common with the Luftwaffe B-Uhr watches than the MoD Mark 11s that share the Mark name. This flieger design is reflected across other modern IWC pilots including the Big Pilot and Pilot Chronograph, unfortunately leaving the original Mark 11 with no aesthetic successor in the brand’s current catalogue. IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Edition ‘RAAF’ (Photo Credit: @timepoor) Modern Military Connections In 2007, IWC entered a commercial relationship with the US Navy, becoming an official licensee and beginning their line of TOP GUN watches. Featuring the logo of the 1980s hit movie of the same name, the series of watches became a stable of IWC’s offerings with licensing fees directly funding morale, welfare, and recreation programs for US sailors, retirees, and their families. TOPGUN & Other "Unit Watches" The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition 'SFTI' features the school’s patch on the dial (Photo Credit: @h.m.uhren) This prepared the foundation of a more organic relationship – IWC’s foray into custom squadron watches. Having seen watches from the TOP GUN line, pilots from the United States Navy Fighter Weapons School (the real TOPGUN) reached out to IWC to investigate the feasibility of making their own piece for the Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor (SFTI) program. The result was the 2018 release of the IWC’s first custom military piece – the Edition ‘SFTI’ in both a Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII and a Pilot’s Watch Chronograph. These exclusive watches continue to be made today but can only be purchased by TOPGUN graduates. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Edition 'SFTI' worn by Monica Barbaro on the set of Top Gun: Maverick  (Photo Credit: Paramount) The SFTI connection paid dividends for IWC when filming began for Top Gun: Maverick. The film crew noticed the Navy pilots wearing their custom IWCs and, in pursuit of authenticity, ended up being introduced by the pilots to IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr, resulting in almost every character in the film wearing IWCs.  Since the first SFTI watches, exclusive squadron collaborations have continued at a small scale and considered pace. This means IWC is very particular about the projects the brand approves, with limited production slots available. Falling under the Richemont group, IWC is generally hesitant to publicly elaborate on their military collaborations although Watches and Wonders 2022 marked a departure from this discretion. The IWC booth featured an exhibit of the brand’s military projects to date – with a total of 18 on display IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph ‘APACHE AH-64E’ (Photo Credit: @chrisgraingerherr) While predominantly working with US Navy fighter squadrons, other military editions were shown including watches for Swiss Air Force Staffel 11, French Aeronavale, No. 663 Squadron Army Air Corps (British AH-64 Apache attack helicopters), and a very special homage to the IWC Mark 11 issued to Royal Australian Air Force aircrew in the 1950s. Notably, all known custom military projects have strict and tangible ties to professional military aviation. IWC Big Pilot’s Watch ‘TYPHOON DRIVER’ (Photo Credit: @blackseries_driver) The Future of Aviation Horology  Beyond atmospheric flight, IWC was recently involved with the Inspiration4 private space program. Commanded by the billionaire owner of the world’s largest private air force, Jared Isaacman (under usual W.O.E. criteria you’d expect him to be a Breitling guy), Each of the four astronauts of this first all-civilian mission to orbit wore a custom Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition ‘Inspiration4’. After the mission each watch was auctioned, raising a total of $405,000 USD for St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital in Memphis. Collaborations with Isaacman’s space endeavors are forecast to continue with the launch of the Polaris Dawn mission later this year. This mission is scheduled to include the first private spacewalk and result in another auction of new special edition IWCs to be worn during the flight.  The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition ‘Inspiration4’ (Image credit: IWC) Final Thoughts While the role of wristwatches in aviation has changed over the last century, IWC’s commitment to aviation ‘use-your-tools’ wristwatches remains. From the humble beginnings of IWC’s Special Pilot’s Watch in 1936 to their custom pieces for private space exploration, IWC has firmly and legitimately positioned itself as a brand for professional aviators, synonymous with the frank design purpose of the pilot’s watch. IWC Pilot’s Chronograph ‘Death Rattlers’ (Photo Credit: @wingwatches) Their commitment to legibility, durability, and continuous technical improvement, along with their lasting ties to military aviation resonates with the W.O.E. community, creating unique watches to be cherished and used by generations to come. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Watches Of The War In Ukraine   About The Authors: Nic is an Australian military pilot who has been a follower of W.O.E. since the early days. He has a particular interest in custom military watch projects having designed and produced timepieces with multiple brands Henry is a journalist based in Australia who writes about watches in his spare time. He’s worked around the world including in conflict zones. He’s passionate about watches and how the hobby brings people together. Cover Photo Credit: IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Edition ‘AÉRONAVALE’ (Photo Credit: @etienne_b___r)

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The Best Military Watches For Land, Sea, & Air

The Best Military Watches For Land, Sea, & Air

A Capable Timepiece Is An Essential Tool For Service Members Timepieces intended for the military have inspired the broader watch industry since the earliest days...

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A Capable Timepiece Is An Essential Tool For Service Members Timepieces intended for the military have inspired the broader watch industry since the earliest days of wristwatches. Names like the Rolex Submariner, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Breguet Type XX, and Hamilton Khaki have all been influenced by or owe their very existence to military use. Buying a watch can be challenging and modern watch marketing clouds the picture, with major watch brands seeking an edge by calling out tenuous or altogether false associations with certain hyped military organizations or units, particularly from the world of special operations. In reality, most modern military members utilize digital tool watches (D.T.W.) to perform their duties, seeking attainability and utility above all else. But, as we’ve so often documented in the W.O.E. Dispatch, a growing subset of the military and the Intelligence Community value the combination of utility, heritage, and mechanical intrigue presented by analog timepieces. In addition, many outside the military reach for military watches because they provide not only a rugged aesthetic but also a higher level of legibility and durability in comparison to more pedestrian options. In this Dispatch, we’ll present our choices for analog watches intended for military members operating in the most common environments: land, sea, and air. If you’re on the cusp of graduating from basic training, officer candidate school (OCS), another more specialized pipeline, or you’re just a regular civilian who appreciates the “Use Your Tools” ethos, our picks represent a wide range of price points, spanning affordable options for the brand-new privates out there as well as a few luxury options for the academy ring-knockers with family manors in the Hamptons. Land - Watches For The Field Timex Expedition North Field Mechanical - $229 Timex has surprisingly deep military associations dating back to World War I when the brand created specialized pocket watches for artillery gunners. Also known for watches worn by US presidents and its plastic, disposable field watches provided to the US Army in the 1980s, modern Timex has a legitimate right to the field watch DNA embodied by the Expedition North Field Mechanical. Measuring 38mm in diameter, the North Field Mechanical offers 100 meters of water resistance, a hand-winding mechanical caliber, and an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, rare specs for this price range that combine to represent a solid field watch for any infantryman on a budget. CWC G10 Military Issue Watch - $300  In contrast to almost every other brand on this list, CWC was created for no reason other than to supply military watches to the British Ministry of Defense (MOD), providing its first quartz-powered G10 in 1980. The modern G10 is — beyond a slimmer case profile — almost identical to the original, still equipped with fixed lug bars, a Swiss quartz caliber, a legible dial and handset, a battery hatch for easy battery changes, and a relatively modest 50 meters of water resistance. Over 200,000 of these simple field watches have been issued over the years, serving as further proof of the utility of this legendary British field watch design. Marathon General Purpose Mechanical - $420 Almost a Canadian answer to a brand like CWC, Marathon was founded in 1939 and was already supplying watches and clocks to the Allied war effort by 1941. Better known for its SAR collection of dive watches, Marathon also produces a large volume of its General Purpose Mechanical field watches for military contracts. Powered by a Seiko NH35, the automatic GPM is housed within a 34mm High-Impact Composite Fibreshell case paired with a stainless steel bezel. Easily visible at night thanks to tritium gas tubes on the dial and hands, the GPM’s smaller size is actually an asset, making the watch unobtrusive when paired with a bunch of tactical equipment. As a note for anyone less familiar with watch sizes, the combination of the 34mm case and a 16-millimeter wide strap means the GPM wears relatively small. Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic - $695  A supplier to the US Military since the First World War, Hamilton is probably the number one name in field watches thanks to its heritage and the value proposition offered by the modern Khaki Field collection. Our pick for this list is the Khaki Field Automatic, offering a more modern design compared to its more-celebrated hand-winding sibling, the Khaki Field Mechanical, as well as 100 meters of water resistance, and a Swiss automatic caliber offering 80 hours of power reserve. If you’re newer to watches and looking for a proven do-it-all field design that is as appropriate for daily wear as military service, this is going to be one of your best bets. Seiko Alpinist SPB121 - $725  The successor to the SARB017, an all-time watch enthusiast favorite from Seiko, the SPB121 is the modern form of the Alpinist, which is the Japanese brand’s explorer’s or field watch. Measuring 39.5mm in diameter, the Alpinist has a few quirks including the use of a cyclops, the odd pairing of green and gold on the dial and hands, and an internal compass bezel. Still, a legible design, impressive lume, and a ridiculous-for-this-category 200 meters of water resistance mean the Alpinist is a field watch deserving of Seiko’s heritage in this department, having been the producer of capable field watches for specialized units including MACV-SOG during the Vietnam War. Tudor Ranger - $3,300  Once positioned as a cheaper Rolex alternative within the same family business structure, modern Tudor has become so much more than that. As we’ve established many times in the Dispatch, Tudors of Espionage (T.O.E.) are very much a thing including special unit versions of the brand’s dive watches, the Black Bay and Pelagos, as well as the brand’s Explorer-like field watch, the Ranger. Also one of the least expensive sports watches in the collection, the modern Ranger is now 39mm in diameter, powered by an in-house caliber, and capable of hard use for anyone looking to test the “Use Your Tools” ethos on a Swiss luxury watch. Rolex Explorer 40 - $7,700 Assuming you’re an Academy graduate, former captain of the polo team, daddy’s special boy, and a newly minted second lieutenant, you may be able to flex something like the Rolex Explorer 40 in uniform. An inspiration for virtually the entire Rolex sport collection, the Explorer as a model family has incredible chops in the arena of mountaineering history, having accompanied Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on their 1953 ascent of the world's tallest mountain. Today serving more as a luxury item given the price point, the Explorer is still one hell of a watch for anything outdoors, but likely not a serious option for most service members relying upon their biweekly direct deposit. Sea - Watches For The Maritime Environment Scurfa Diver One D1-500 - $250  To put it mildly, the advent of so-called “microbrands” has changed the watch landscape forever, bringing previously unobtainable features and specifications to price points once thought unimaginable. A great example of this trend is Scurfa Watches founded by commercial saturation diver Paul Scurfield. For around $250, the Diver One serves up a domed sapphire crystal, 500 meters of water resistance, a real helium escape valve tested by the founder, some of the best lume on this entire list, and a custom rubber strap. For anyone on the aquatic end of the military searching for a durable dive watch for a more affordable price even compared to brands like Seiko or Citizen, Scurfa is one of the more compelling options to explore. Seiko Prospex SRPE99 - $550  Affectionately known to enthusiasts as the “Turtle” for its cushion case shape, the SRPE99 is inspired by the older 6309, one of Seiko’s most iconic dive watch designs and a watch issued to numerous special operations units including the US Navy SEALs. Revived in 2016, the modern Turtle provides hacking and hand-winding functionality, a larger 45mm case that thankfully wears smaller thanks to its shorter lugs, and much of the old-school Turtle DNA throughout the dial and hands. With the SKX having been discontinued a few years back, the Turtle is Seiko’s flagship automatic diver in this price bracket. Seiko makes some of the most effective utilitarian dive watches on the market, and the Turtle — whichever variant you go for — is a great place to start for any military diver. Tornek-Rayville TR-660 - $895  One of the more intriguing tales in dive watch history, the original Tornek-Rayville was essentially a modified Blancpain Fifty Fathoms intended to subvert the Buy American Act requiring military organizations to purchase US-made goods. Designed for US Navy SEALs and other amphibious special operators, vintage Tornek-Rayville TR-900s have become prohibitively expensive for most, making Mk II and Bill Yao’s relaunch of the brand and watch a couple of years back all the more exciting. While it stays close to the vintage look, the modern TR-660 is subtly upgraded everywhere you look from the Seiko automatic caliber to the domed sapphire crystal to the custom-woven nylon strap. If celebrating the old-school with a modern diving tool appeals to you, Tornek-Rayville is a niche pick worthy of a closer look. Citizen Aqualand JP2007-17W - $550  In military and commercial diving circles, Citizen is one of the top names in the game thanks to models like the Aqualand, an analog-digital diver that debuted in 1985. An ISO-6425-rated professional dive watch, the Aqualand combines diving functionality including a depth gauge in a robust utilitarian package that simply works, earning fans among Navy SEALs and other amphibious military units. The modern Aqualand appears almost unchanged compared to the OG other than a new caliber using one battery instead of three on the older model. Last year, Citizen unveiled the JP2007-17W, a new Aqualand with a full lume dial housed within a dark grey PVD case. For the price, it’s among the best picks on this list for anyone doing the military’s wettest and saltiest work. Marathon GSAR 41mm - $1,500  Many of the watches on this list are great for military divers, but only the Marathon GSAR is currently for military and government issue through official supply channels. Surprisingly, the SAR family of watches has a history closely linked to the enthusiast community, with Marathon having tapped the head of a niche military watch forum for help designing the watch in 2001. Intended for Canadian Air Force Search and Rescue Technicians (SAR Techs), the modern GSAR or Government Search And Rescue provides 300 meters of water resistance, a Swiss automatic caliber, tritium tubes on the dial and hands, and one of the best rubber straps in the price range. Our in-house maritime expert, Benjamin Lowry, recently went diving with the SAR collection, confirming its utility in the underwater environment.  Sinn U50 Hydro - $2,690  Another brand closely associated with military diving is Sinn, which was founded by a pilot named Helmut Sinn in 1961. Despite its aviation heritage, Sinn is well known for dive watches backed by impressive tech not commonly seen elsewhere including the oil-filled approach utilized in the new U50 Hydro. Based on the 41mm U50, the U50 Hydro swaps an automatic movement for quartz which is the only option when the central case is filled with oil, a seldom seen method of combatting water pressure that makes the watch all but pressure-proof. Another oil-filled watch from Sinn is standard issue for the KSM or Kommando Spezialkräfte der Marine, essentially the German Navy SEAL equivalent and the brand also makes special “mission timers” for the GSG 9, the German Federal Police’s special operations unit. Tudor Pelagos 39 - $4,700 A favorite of the W.O.E. team, our next pick is the Tudor Pelagos 39, the hotly-anticipated smaller version of the 42mm Pelagos that is just a bit too large for some wrists. While it’s not cheap, Tudor presents a solid value for what you’re getting in a modern luxury dive watch from Switzerland, with the P39 housed within a grade 2 titanium case and equipped with a manufacture caliber providing 70 hours of power reserve. The Pelagos FXD might seem like the obvious choice here, but we’re going with the 39 for its versatility, a watch that looks just as appropriate on its rubber strap with dive gear as it does on its bracelet with a dress uniform. Whether we like it or not, most knuckle-dragging enlisted divers simply aren’t reaching for a $5,000 watch for actual diving duties. Omega Seamaster Diver 300 - $5,900  Often associated with James Bond, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300 is also a watch with legitimate military history including use by the Special Boat Service, Danish Frogmen, and the US Navy SEALs. Originally intended as a direct competitor to the Rolex Submariner, Omega’s professional diving watch now comes in at around half the trading price of a regular Sub while offering finishing and specifications that exceed the Rolex in some departments. Rather than simply engraving a caseback for special orders from military organizations, Omega also has a completely different version of the Diver 300 with a matte-finished case and bracelet, no-date dial, and a special color for its luminescent material. The days of military organizations issuing watches like the Seamaster are long gone, but for anyone seeking a dive watch offering a blend of military provenance and luxury, the Seamaster Diver 300 is one of the better options.  Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 42mm - $16,600  To get it out there right up front, a $17,000 watch probably isn’t going to be the number one pick for military members, but it is important to pay homage to the original gangsters in this space. Dating back to 1953 and designed specifically for the needs of French commando frogmen, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms cemented the format we now innately understand as the prototypical dive watch. Having climbed the ranks of luxury brands over the past 70 years, the recently-released Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatic Titanium 42mm isn’t for everyone given its price tag, but would still serve as one hell of a dive watch for anyone with the scratch. Air  - Watches For Pilots & Aircrew Seiko 5 Sports SSK001 - $460  Beyond durability, low-pressure resistance, and legibility, the ability to track a second timezone is one of the most useful aspects of a pilot’s watch. If there has been one major change in more affordable watches in the past few years, it is the advent of less expensive mechanical GMT watches, with Seiko’s SSK collection leading the way. For under $500, the SSK001 offers a friction-fit, bidirectional GMT bezel, an automatic “caller” GMT caliber, and the established case silhouette and dial format calling back to Seiko’s legendary SKX007 and SKX009. Also backed by 100 meters of water resistance, the Seiko SSK001 is one of the better inexpensive GMT watches on the market and ideal for a budding military pilot while also being a brand with extensive service history in the US Military in particular. Sangin Kinetic II - $600  Despite plenty of negative outcomes from the Global War On Terror, one of the positives has been the rise of entrepreneurship among GWOT veterans whether we’re talking about coffee, apparel brands, knives, or watches. Sangin was founded by a Marine Recon Raider and specializes in watches intended for military environments while also representing solid value for what you’re getting. The Kinetic II is Sangin’s purpose-built aviator’s watch, the result of extensive testing by over forty military pilots and aircrew. With a ridiculous 300 meters of water resistance, Swiss-made Super-LumiNova on the dial and hands, and a Swiss Ronda GMT quartz caliber, the Kinetic II is a lesser-known but not less capable option for any military pilot looking to celebrate the community with a legitimate tool watch. Longines Spirit Zulu Time - $3,150  Another brand with legendary status in the arena of pilot’s watches is Longines which produced specialized watches intended for flight for none other than Charles Lindbergh. Also once a supplier to the Czech military, modern Longines still makes some excellent watches for pilots including the Spirit Zulu Time. With refined looks, design DNA that calls back to vintage Longines designs, and an impressive caliber offering “true” GMT (or Zulu Time) functionality and 72 hours of power reserve, the Zulu Time is one of the better “entry-to-luxury” options for a GMT watch today. Of interest to military pilots, the Zulu Time is also available on a wide range of straps including an excellent leather strap with a micro-adjusting clasp, a traditional nylon strap, and a well-done stainless steel bracelet. Bremont U-2 - $4,950 Coming from a brand founded by a pair of pilots, Bremont was always going to need to be on this list. Also one of the primary producers of “unit watches” in the current watchmaking landscape, Bremont’s U-2, which was designed with input from serving military pilots, is our pick for this list. Housed within a 43mm case made of hardened steel, the chronometer movement inside the U-2 is located within a rubberized movement mount that reduces the effect of shocks. Also including an internal rotating bezel operated by way of one of the two crowns, the U-2 can be used for a variety of different navigational computations. There have been numerous unit-specific versions of Bremont watches over the years, the U-2 is one of the most common models chosen by military aviation professionals for good reason. Breitling Navitimer - $9,850 Among the all-time icons in the world of aviation timekeeping, the Breitling Navitimer is at or very near the top, having been created with pilots in mind back in 1953 in association with the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA). Like a few other watches on this list, Breitling has ascended to a more luxurious position but still has a strong history of use by military pilots as well as numerous other sketchy dudes. Looking at the functionality, the Navitimer is of course a chronograph but also offers a unique rotating internal bezel that can be used for a wide range of navigational and computational functions directly related to the needs of pilots in the air. You wouldn’t necessarily think of a watch costing nine grand on the wrist of a military pilot, but when it comes to the Breitling Navitimer and a few other models from the brand including the Aerospace and Emergency, it happens more often than you’d imagine. IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX - $5,250  Used by military pilots on both sides of World War II, IWC is another brand with serious legitimacy in the world of military aviation. While IWC’s chronographs including the Top Gun collection receive a lot of the shine, our pick in this category is the Mark XX which traces its history to the Mark XI, a watch produced for the British Military by IWC (and other brands) in the wake of the Second World War. Today, the Mark series serves as a robust time-only watch honoring IWC’s heritage in the space while also providing crystal clear legibility for modern pilots. Recently reimagined, the Mark XX offers 100 meters of water resistance and a more wearable case compared to previous iterations. For the price, the movement is also solid, providing an extended five-day or 120-hour power reserve. Rolex GMT-Master II - $10,900  In the arena of sports GMT watches, whether we like it or not, one name reigns supreme: The Rolex GMT-Master II. When the original GMT-Master was unveiled in 1954, the watch aligned with the early jet-setting era and the advent of business travel, but the GMT-Master and later the GMT-Master II would become legendary in our community thanks to the watch’s use by pilots as well as special operations personnel. One might argue the modern GMT-Master II feels more jewel than tool, but there are still numerous instances of military members selecting this iconic model for hard use in austere environments including the cockpit. Final Thoughts As we mentioned, any of the watches in this could be replaced by a capable digital tool watch, but for anyone in uniform who values the mechanical intrigue and heritage represented by a quality timepiece, this list is for you. Our goal is to let this be a living article that we can add as we go until we’ve created the most complete list of excellent analog military watches on the internet. If you think something is missing, be sure to let us know in the comments. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: Watches of Diplomatic Security   *As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. When you click on links to various watches in this article and make a purchase, this can result in Watches of Espionage earning a commission.

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The Watch Industry & Celebrity Marketing Through the Ages

The Watch Industry & Celebrity Marketing Through the Ages

Celebrity Watch Deals Are Nothing New—But Are They As Compelling As They Once Were?  Last year, watch media was flown into Mykonos, Greece from all...

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Celebrity Watch Deals Are Nothing New—But Are They As Compelling As They Once Were?  Last year, watch media was flown into Mykonos, Greece from all over the globe. The occasion? The 75th Anniversary of the Omega Seamaster. The real reason folks came out? Dinner with George Clooney, the salt-and-pepper Hollywood heartthrob on Omega’s payroll. A play-by-play account of the experience from an insider ran in Revolution Magazine: The sun was setting on a beach Omega managed to make private for the evening. Picture this: 2,000 candles covered the sand where a strong breeze was making sure my hair would make me look as if I had just gotten out of bed, or as if I had stuck two fingers into an electrical socket. There were 140 guests split into two tables and I was fortunate enough to sit at George Clooney’s…I mean, he’s a fuckin’ 62-year-old god I would date in a split second, even if, for the record, he is my Dad’s age. Thankfully, he’s married to a goddess named Amal Clooney, and fully taken. Although… I have to say that when I laid eyes on him, it felt as if I was struck by a bolt of lightning from Zeus himself. Omega CEO Reynaldo Aeschlimann (far left), George Clooney, (right of center), and a few other of Omega’s notable celebrity partners in Mykonos. (Photo Credit: Revolution) Needless to say, celebrities are a highly effective tool for getting the watch media to write about a certain event or product. That much is evident from the sort of celebrity coverage the watch world gave to the Met Gala the other week. In fact, entire TikTok and Instagram accounts have cropped up dedicated to covering what watches celebrities wear. And with them, a large following. W.O.E. is indifferent when it comes to this kind of celebrity marketing and I can confidently say a movie star wearing a watch has never impacted my buying habits. That said, for better or worse, celebrity endorsements are a massive part of modern watch culture. What we think about them doesn’t matter. They’re not going anywhere.  So how exactly did we get here? What happened to the iconic watch advertisements featuring people of real consequence shaping the course of history?  It has to do with the shifting aspirations of watch consumers, the changing role of the wristwatch, and the influencer economy. In this Dispatch, we’ll explore how watch marketing shifted from pilots, explorers, and divers to vapid Hollywood celebrities and K-pop superstars. The Early Age Of “Celebrity” Testimonials  Charles Lindbergh pictured alongside the Spirit of St. Louis in 1927.  Many pilots died trying to claim the Orteig Prize, a $25,000 cash prize for anyone who could fly from New York to Paris nonstop. Charles Lindbergh famously won the prize in 1927, but not before between six and 15 pilots perished in the competition, depending on the source of reporting. Lindbergh eventually became somewhat of an ambassador for Longines and later developed the “Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch” with Philip Van Horn Weems of the US Navy, an early pioneer of modern aerial navigation techniques. A celebrated pilot and explorer, Lindbergh was one of the earliest “celebrity” ambassadors for Longines in the ‘30s.  A 1931 advertisement for the Longines “Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch”. In the aviation world, one mid-century aviator’s name looms large, and that is, of course, Chuck Yeager. He was famously a Rolex ambassador, but he wasn’t the first ambassador who challenged the status quo in a profession and rose to stardom that Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf would capitalize on. Wilsdorf was a brilliant marketer, and while the testimonial model was certainly used before, he took it to a new level and leveraged celebrity status in a novel way.  Rolex advertisement featuring legendary pilot Chuck Yeager. In 1927, Mercedes Gleitze swam across the English Channel with a Rolex strapped to her wrist (some accounts say it was around her neck). She was just 26 years old and spent a grueling 10 hours in the water. When she reached shore, her watch was in perfect order. In the 1920s, this was an incredible feat of engineering and paired well with the equally challenging real-world accomplishment. Wilsdorf then made her a brand ambassador, using Gleitze’s stardom as a record holder to demonstrate the waterproof properties of the “Oyster” case.  An advertisement for Rolex’s Oyster case technology celebrating Mercedes Gleitze’s English Channel swim.  That was the first instance of “celebrity” ambassadors by Rolex. Now back to Yeager. It was in 1987 that Yeager first appeared in a Rolex advertisement, although the brand had worked with him during his years of service as an aviator on product testing and development. It was only in the ‘80s that he became a spokesperson for Rolex. Rolex regarded airmen as celebrities in the mid-century era, because they were. Various advertisements even cite the Crown’s involvement with the US Air Force’s Thunderbirds, the jet demonstration team. During the ‘50s and ‘60s, the image of American might via the Thunderbirds helped Rolex sell watches.  Rolex advertisement highlighting the brand’s relationship with the US Air Force Thunderbirds. Partnerships were not limited to the high-flying variety. Underwater, Aqualung was touting its relationship with Jacques Costeau, underwater adventurer and documentarian, and Doxa was also tied up in this partnership. The ‘60s were an age of adventure, and Costeau’s films and shows filled viewers' imaginations with the magical world beneath the sea—providing a point of view they’d never seen before.  A 1958 ad from US Divers, the United States Aqua Lung affiliate, using Cousteau to market its diving equipment.  All of these “ambassadors'' (different brands called them by different names) had one thing in common: their popularity came from performing feats against the odds and contributing something important to their field. In other words, their real-world accomplishments moved the needle. As a generalization, the same can’t be said about today’s celebrity watch ambassadors, the majority of whom come from film, sports, or music. But this change also has to do with the fact that the watches being advertised back then filled a much different need than the watches of today. It’s easy to forget today, but watches were once tools. The Transmogrification From Tool To Luxury In Watches Jacques Cousteau and Luis Marden wearing Aqualung equipment, excellent social proof for Aqualung as a brand. (Photo Credit: National Geographic) Among Dr. Robert Cialdini’s “Weapons of Mass Influence'' is the concept of “social proof”. This means that in most instances, humans observe their environment and surroundings to learn what is the “correct behavior”. In simple terms, it’s looking to prominent figures for influence, observing what strategies have worked for successful individuals in the past. If Jacques Costeau used Aqualung diving equipment when he produced his famous documentary The Silent World in ‘56 and laid the foundations for what would become an era of undersea living research, then Aqualung could cite him as social proof that their equipment performed well enough for Costeau to carry out his job, which ultimately contributes to the field of undersea scientific research.  Up until the advent of phones, smartwatches, and other “wearables” that keep time, the crucial task was solely that of the mechanical wristwatch. There was no other choice. It wasn’t necessarily a fashion accessory, it had to perform its job just like any other tool one would rely on.  While often considered luxury items, watches are still critical tools in certain instances. (Photo Credit: Tudor Watch) Now in 2024 that’s not the case for the broader public. In the W.O.E. community it still very much is—while timepieces are in part about culture, they are still crucial tools used to accomplish tasks. But it’s important to remember that suits in Geneva aren’t necessarily marketing watches for the niche W.O.E. crowd. To reach a larger qualified demographic, watches are now marketed as luxury accessories.  The key takeaway is that while watches were once a necessity for the masses, they now primarily serve as a luxury item for those with horological interests and money to spend.  Classical Expressions Of Heroism Replaced By Celebrities Han So Hee, the star of K-drama Nevertheless, became an Omega ambassador in 2022.  Since the watch isn’t necessarily what it once was in terms of the role it plays, that means the way most watches are marketed and positioned must change, too.  To prove the point, let’s look at the inverse of the above hypothesis: Tools that have always been tools will still use “testimonial” style advertising, citing ambassadors that use their products for their jobs. Take a look at diving equipment manufacturer, Draeger’s online catalog and you’ll see operators, not celebrities, using their products.  The same goes for just about any gear company that’s popular in our community. You won’t find celebrities endorsing companies producing power tools and gear to get the job done.  So why did it happen in watches? Watch brands, like any other company, have one purpose: to make money. And in 2024 this means mainstream appeal. They’re going to make the most effective investment in terms of share of voice (SOV), often hiring agencies to make smart investment decisions that ultimately lead to the highest number of sales.  Whether we like it or not, actors like Brad Pitt, a Breitling ambassador, are an excellent vehicle for boosting watch awareness and sales. For better or worse, celebrities are synonymous with luxury and wield great influence. Brad Pitt, David Beckham, and Lady Gaga are leveraged to create social proof, which is in stark contrast to the “hero” or boundary-pushing individuals brands may have looked to in the past. The truth is that traditional celebrities simply have larger followings than outstanding individuals moving the needle in the world today. Investing in celebrity partnerships exposes a higher number of individuals to the brand.  Recently, K-Pop star Lisa launched her own Bulgari watch that takes inspiration from the Swiss Alps and the national flower of Switzerland, Edelweiss. This sort of release demonstrates the sort of deal watch companies engage in: They get to use a big name that draws in people, and in return, the celebrity gets clout and a big check. Lisa, a Thai national who is a member of a K-pop group, is not a known watch fan. It’s a transactional relationship, the same sort of arrangement that happens in the fashion world.  The John Mayer X Audemars Piguet Limited Edition Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is a rare example of a celebrity being associated with watches because of a genuine passion for horology. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee)  On the contrary, some deals exist in the celebrity space that make a lot of sense including the John Mayer X Audemars Piguet Limited Edition Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. Mayer stands out as the mainstream celebrity who has done a lot in terms of bringing watches to a wider audience while having a true passion for the craft. There are exceptions to every rule.  Nirmal “Nims” Purja, a former Bremont ambassador, is an excellent modern example of a brand getting behind a boundary-pushing athlete and explorer. (Photo Credit: Bremont)  While the golden era of exploration is over, there are still people today who have done far more to the advancement of humankind than any actor, fashion icon, or TikTok influencer. The problem is, that they do not wield the same influence as modern mega-celebrities do.   While it’s true that suits in Geneva hire celebrities to promote products, it’s also true that the general buying public doesn’t buy based on heroic actions of servitude anymore. While an explorer may have hundreds of thousands of followers and a certain level of influence, their ability to alter consumer decision-making en masse for $10,000 watches unfortunately just isn’t what it once was. This is more a reflection of societal interests than it is a core problem with the watch industry.  One of our altruistic motivations at W.O.E. is to maintain the ethos of the tool watch, using watches as a prism to tell stories of the unnamed men and women who actually make a difference in the world, not just on the silver screen. So What About The W.O.E. Community? What’s The Best Course Of Action?  Ryan Gosling, our nemesis and one of TAG Heuer’s modern ambassadors. (Photo Credit: TAG Heuer) With the advent of AI, the enshittification of the internet, and social media, this celebrity trend is most likely here to stay. But that doesn’t mean that you as an enthusiast have to embrace it. There’s still plenty of marketing that big watch brands use that specifically resonates with our community.  The celebrity trend only means that it’s harder for people who appreciate tool watches to find their tribe in the larger watch world. It’s like anything. There are groups inside a large whole, and then sub-groups inside those. What was once a much larger segment of the watch space has shrunk down to a much smaller group that occupies only a corner of the hobby now. We look at the world as it is, rather than how we might like it to be. This is just a fact. Those who simply don’t care about celebrities represent a smaller slice of the overall target market than those who do.  Concluding Thoughts Lisa, a K-Pop superstar, recently became a Bulgari ambassador. (Photo Credit: Bulgari) Like many interests and hobbies, what you put in is what you get out. There’s a surface-level veneer meant to appeal to the masses, and this is where standard celebrity partnerships fall. But dig deeper and there’s always another layer of authenticity and organizations doing something interesting. The deeper you go and the longer you spend wading through the watch world, the easier it becomes to separate what’s meaningful from what’s meaningless. One thing’s for sure: here at W.O.E, we’re not putting any celebrities on the payroll any time soon.  If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: A Saudi Astronaut’s Rolex GMT at the International Space Station

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Sketchy Dudes Wear Breitling - We Don’t Make The Rules

Sketchy Dudes Wear Breitling - We Don’t Make The Rules

Watches of Espionage is vehemently brand agnostic. The watches we cover are dictated by the community and one brand that consistently pops up is Breitling....

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Watches of Espionage is vehemently brand agnostic. The watches we cover are dictated by the community and one brand that consistently pops up is Breitling. There are few truths in the world of intelligence, but one of them is Sketchy Dudes Wear Breitling. Before the Breitling fan clubs take out their pitchforks and start a bonfire, we want to be clear that this phrase is neither a commendation nor a criticism. It’s an observation that, while it remains relevant today, particularly applies to the 1990s and 2000s when Breitling was the adventure watch for unapologetic men focused on aviation and diving. Breitling was a signal that the wearer is adventurous but also appreciates fine craftsmanship in utilitarian tools. Blackwater CEO Erik Prince in Afghanistan wearing a custom Breitling Emergency. (Photo Credit: Vogue) Breitling - Tools For Professionals While likely an unintended consequence of marketing watches as “tools for professionals”, the brand developed an almost cult-like following in the national security community with both good and bad actors. Breitling watches can be found on the wrists of many gray area operators — from CEO of Blackwater Erik Prince’s Breitling Emergency (READ HERE), former Soviet arms dealer Viktor Bout’s Breitling B-1, and Director of CIA George Tenet’s Breitling Aerospace. When Leonardo DiCaprio played Danny Archer, a former Rhodesian smuggler turned mercenary in the movie Blood Diamond, he wore a Breitling Chrono Avenger. All of these men are sketchy, some good sketchy, some bad sketchy, but sketchy nonetheless.  Then Director of CIA wearing Breitling Aerospace while testifying for the 9/11 Commission. (Credit: AP) Breitling - A (Very Brief) History Lesson Breitling SA was founded in 1884 by Leon Breitling and passed down through his bloodline until 1979 when the brand was purchased by Ernst Schneider, a professional soldier turned watch executive. Under the leadership of Ernst and later his son, Théodore Schneider (an aviation enthusiast and helicopter pilot), Breilting found its niche manufacturing “tools for professionals”, developing several partnerships with military aviation units including the Frecce Tricolori, the aerobatic team of the Italian Air Force. Breitling Jet Team (MigFlug) Sketchy Breitling References While collectors value several vintage Breitling references, including the iconic Navitimer 806 and Cosmonaute 809, several analog-digital models cemented Breitling’s role as a leader in producing practical tool watches built for adventure. Breitling Aerospace: W.O.E.’s Jordanian Breitling Aerospace. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) While we are certainly biased, the Breitling Aerospace maintains legendary status in our community because, at its core, it is a highly functional tool. The dual digital screens of the chronometer-certified "SuperQuartz" have practical features including a digital chronograph, a second-time zone, day and date, an alarm, and a countdown timer. The combination of a well-finished titanium case and bracelet with traditional analog hands results in a robust piece that can be worn to a black tie dinner in Mayfair or the cockpit of a Caravan on a dirt strip in Mozambique. The Aerospace was introduced in 1985, more than a decade after the “Quartz Crisis,” where many consumers moved to cheaper, more accurate timepieces, resulting in a dramatic decline in the mechanically-driven Swiss watch industry.   As previously documented, I was gifted a Breitling Aerospace with a gold Royal Crown of Jordan on the dial from King Abdullah bin Al-Hussein and wore it for much of my career while operational at CIA. The Aerospace’s technical complications were legitimately useful for conducting clandestine operations where time matters. The Aerospace as we knew it was quietly discontinued, the recent release of the updated but likely-limited Aerospace B70 Orbiter indicates more is on the horizon for one of the brand’s sketchiest model families. Breitling Emergency: Perhaps the best example of Breitlings legendary tool watch status is the Breitling Emergency. Developed in 1995 in partnership with French aviation manufacturer Dassault Electronique, the original Emergency contained a beacon that transmits a signal on the international distress frequency of 121.5 MHz. In an emergency, the wearer unscrews the cap at four o’clock and extends a thin wire antenna which automatically activates the signal. Commercial and military aircraft monitor the frequency and are able to alert search and rescue teams of an individual's location, anywhere in the world. The watch was specifically marketed to the military and aviation sectors and, according to Breitling, has been used to rescue individuals including in 1997 when a reed boat was blown off course while sailing from Easter Island to Australia. Breitling Emergency Catalog (1985) The Breitling Emergency would go on to be favored by those who operated on the fringe of nonpermissive environments including several specialized aviation units, Blackwater personnel, and former SAS turned African mercenary Simon Mann. Today, the Breitling Emergency is still available at a massive 51mm diameter and complete with dual frequency distress beacons at 121.5 MHz and 406 MHz, both of which are monitored through the international Cospas-Sarsat system and based on a network of satellites in low-altitude earth orbit (LEOSAR). Breitling - The Unit Watch Pioneer Breitling Avenger Seawolf commissioned by Breitling SAS D Squadron in 2003/2004. We have covered modern “unit watches” extensively and much of what we see today implemented by Tudor, Bremont, IWC, and others was originally pioneered by Breitling in the 1990s and 2000s. This was a core aspect of Breitling's sketchiness, and the close relationship between Breitling and several elite units made it a prized possession for many operating at the tip of the spear. Originally focused on aviation squadron watches, Breitling branched out to Special Operations Forces, including US Army Delta Force and the British Special Air Service in the early 2000s. British SAS G Squadron Richard Williams wearing a custom 22 Special Air Service Breitling Avenger Seawolf in Iraq. (Photo Credit: Richard Williams) Breitling's customization program was not limited to the military or governments but extended to commercial entities. In 2010, Russian Oligarch Roman Abramovich commissioned 50 Breitling SuperOcean automatics with "Eclipse" on the dial, the name of one of his 533 ft super yachts, pretty sketchy if you ask me . . . (Photo Credit: Chiswick Auctions) Hollywood:   Breitling’s sketchiness also extends to the silver screen with several W.O.E. characters wearing the legendary tool watches in major Hollywood productions. Blood Diamond (2006) - Breitling Chrono Avenger In Blood Diamond, Danny Archer, a dreamy Rhodesian smuggler and ex-mercenary, embarks on a hair-raising adventure to find a large diamond amid the Sierra Leone Civil War. Leonardo DiCarprio's character wears a Breitling Chrono Avenger with a black dial and a solid titanium 44mm case on a brown calf leather strap. A Rhodesian mercenary turned diamond smuggler is the very definition of sketchy so this watch is on point. The movie takes place in 1999 when Breitling was at the height of its sketchiness and was a go-to tool for gray area operators and real mercenaries. Russian arms dealer Viktor Bout wearing a Breitling B-1 after his arrest in Thailand in a 2008 sting operation by the Drug Enforcement Administration. (Photo Credit: DEA) Thunderball (1965) - Breitling Top Time While Bond is known for Rolex and Omega, several other brands have graced the wrist of the world's most famous spy. In 1965’s Thunderball, the real OG Bond, Sean Connery, was outfitted with a Breitling Top Time that Q modified to include a Gieger counter to track down missing nuclear warheads… as sketchy as it gets.  Point Break (1991) - Breitling Navitimer Quartz As mentioned in a recent “Hollywood Watches of Espionage,” Breitling featured in Point Break on the wrist of bank robber/surf bro Bodhi, portrayed by the late Patrick Swayze. The Breitling Navitimer Quartz is shown in the scene leading up to a specific robbery where Bodhi ceremoniously declares: “The little hand says it’s time to rock and roll.” Very sketchy indeed. Breitling Of Today The past few years have seen massive changes for Breitling. In the early 2000s, the brand prospered in an era defined by massive case diameters and a masculine customer base. However, in many ways galvanized by the release of the Tudor Black Bay in 2012, the industry began to shift in favor of “vintage-inspired” styling, more attainable in-house calibers, and restrained dimensions.  "Arabic Breitling" -  Aviator 8 Etihad Limited Edition. Limited edition of 500 pieces and features stylized Arabic numerals on the dial, as is the norm with most Middle East editions. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Breitling was admittedly slow to catch up but has made impressive improvements in its direction and product offering since being acquired in 2017 and appointing industry legend Georges Kern as CEO. Some enthusiasts still take issue with some of Breitling's price points or styling, however, it’s clear the brand is moving in the right direction in 2024, jumping from its 2017 $950M acquisition price to a 2022 valuation of $4.5Bn. The brand’s recent acquisition of Universal Genève is another intriguing development. It’s unclear what Breitling will do with the enthusiast-favorite vintage name, but we’re excited to see where it goes. Breitling CEO Georges Kern (Photo Credit: WatchPro) Is Breitling Still Sketchy? The question then becomes, is the kinder gentler Breitling of today as sketchy as it once was, especially as the brand enjoys a broader appeal and newfound level of mass market success? Yes and no. The brand’s long-standing military unit watch program is still active but appears to have waned, leaving the door ajar for brands like Bremont and Tudor. Producing military-specific personalized watches is likely not a key driver of revenue, but it is a central aspect of what has made Breitling one of the watches of choice for sketchy dudes.  While we are supportive of these changes at Breitling, and the strategy is clearly working, we hope the brand will continue to be inspired by its roots producing tool watches for those that operate on the fringes of sketchiness. With rumors of a new incoming Aerospace, our fingers are crossed for a return to Breitling’s legendary levels of sketchiness. -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: CIA Officer’s Love Affair with the Arabic Seiko

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Watches And Wonders Releases For The W.O.E. Community

Watches And Wonders Releases For The W.O.E. Community

Last week was Watches and Wonders, a trade show in Switzerland where watch brands showcase their latest releases. Journalists, tastemakers, and watch enthusiasts flock to...

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Last week was Watches and Wonders, a trade show in Switzerland where watch brands showcase their latest releases. Journalists, tastemakers, and watch enthusiasts flock to Geneva to see and photograph new timepieces, meet with brand representatives, and drink no shortage of champagne and Negronis. Watches and Wonders is a masterclass in marketing, also known as the mass manipulation of consumers. We have previously written about covert influence in watch media (READ HERE) and this event is the Superbowl or, if you will, the Fashion Week. Propelled by the rise of digital media, what was once a straightforward industry trade show has been catapulted into the feeds of even the most basic enthusiast, with extensive coverage across all forms of social media, podcasts, and legacy watch publications.  Photo Credit: Watches and Wonders For weeks leading up to the event, the internet has been rife with “Watches and Wonders Predictions,” an organic marketing exercise that benefits both brands and content creators. The most influential tastemakers are invited to Switzerland as guests of the trade show, with hotels and other expenses covered either by the Watches and Wonders foundation or the brands. Lavish parties are thrown to showcase the watches but more importantly to woo the journalists, who are then expected to (objectively) cover the new watches, often simply regurgitating press releases with brand-approved language. Whether or not they are invited back next year is implied in part on their coverage of the event or the particular brand that sponsored their attendance. It’s brilliant.    Photo Credit: Watches and Wonders Don’t Hate The Player Or The Game To be clear, we don’t hate the players or the game. On the contrary, we admire the masterclass that is Watches and Wonders. It’s a fascinating exercise in human psychology, consumer behavior, and marketing. As enthusiasts, the releases are exciting, the speculation and leaks are admittedly fun, and the grand reveals offer the age-old intrigue of the unknown. While we normally don’t cover new releases, we want to highlight several watches that speak specifically to our community and our “Use Your Tools” ethos.  Photo Credit: Watches and Wonders We originally planned to cover 10-12 timepieces, but frankly struggled to identify more than a handful that met our criteria. The industry is trending towards high fashion and this seemed to be the year of dress watches and precious metals, which needless to say is not really within our wheelhouse. These are by no means endorsements, but here are a few that caught our eye. Rolex GMT-Master II Grey-Black Bezel Price: $10,900 (In Theory) A CIA Case Officer has been described as a “Ph.D. that can win in a bar fight”, and that fictional person would (traditionally) wear a Rolex GMT.  Whether the updated grey and black bezel on the newest GMT Master II is to your taste is up to you, but we would argue it gives the watch a modern look that is also more subtle than something like the legendary Pepsi bezel. For the traditionalists, the Pepsi is still available and was not discontinued as indicated by the rumor mill.  It’s an easy win and we like it. Cons: The days of a Case Officer or SpecOps operator walking into a boutique on R&R and walking out with a Rolex GMT are over. Given the astronomical secondary market prices (at times over double retail for certain references), it’s hard to say a new Rolex GMT is a true tool watch with a straight face. Modern Rolex models tend to be pretty shiny and this new GMT is unfortunately no exception. It can and will still be used as a tool by a select few, but the modern GMT Master II lacks much of its original tool watch feel. Also, good luck getting one at retail. Doxa Sub 200T Price: $1,550 - $1,590 For both the military and recreational diving communities, Doxa is a legendary name, having famously been worn by Dirk Pitt, Clive Cussler’s fictional undersea hero, and in the US Navy’s pioneering SEALAB experiments. Better known for their storied salvaging efforts, US Navy Divers also have been at the pointy end of the espionage spear, responsible for developing and executing a daring mission to tap Soviet undersea communication cables in the 1970s on Operation Ivy Bells. Jumping ahead to 2024, Doxa sneaked in just ahead of the Watches and Wonders releases, unveiling the Sub 200T about a week ahead of the big show. Providing a smaller alternative to the established Sub 300 and 300T, the 200T comes in with a 39mm diameter and more slender case while maintaining much of the Doxa Sub design language. Available in a staggering array of colors and matte or sunray dial finishes, the Sub 200T seems poised to provide a smaller-wearing alternative for those who have traditionally considered Doxa’s chunky cushion case to be a bit too much. Cons: Most Doxa Sub models wear considerably smaller than their stated diameter, meaning this 39mm Sub 200T might wear more like 36 or 37mm on the wrist, pretty small. Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT “Coke” Price: $4,400 - $4,600 While they may not have the historic caché offered by Rolex’s GMT Master models, Tudor’s GMT watches have come a long way since the release of the Black Bay GMT in 2018. However, from that 41mm wide by 15mm thick model’s inception, many were quick to call for a smaller and thinner option. But what most enthusiasts wanted was a Black Bay 58 GMT, and that’s exactly what we got in 2024. At this point, Tudor’s relationship with our community is well-established. Still producing unit watches for some of the world’s most elite military operators, Tudors of Espionage (T.O.E.) are very much a thing. That said, the new Black Bay 58 GMT feels like more of a vintage throwback than a modern practitioner's watch, but still offers its own play on the desirable “Coke” format along with the best set of dimensions thus far for a Tudor GMT, measuring 39mm wide and under 13mm thick. Cons: The new BB58 GMT relies heavily on “gilt” gold-tone markings that aren't for everyone. The faux rivets on the bracelet have to go and it’s really hard to understand why they use them on new designs. There is no utility to this feature and it crosses the line of homage-corny. The nicest thing we have heard about faux rivets is, “...they don’t bother me that much.” Bremont Terra Nova Price: $2,850 - $4,250 We are big fans of Bremont and we've previously covered the UK brand’s intriguing relationships with intel and military units around the globe (READ HERE). It would be intellectually dishonest to ignore the new Terra Nova collection of field watches “inspired by military pocket watches of the early 20th century”. That said, it’s hard to sugarcoat this one. To use a cricket metaphor, it was a swing and a miss. The rebranding fell flat with both enthusiasts and Bremont traditionalists.   Prior to the event, newly appointed Bremont CEO Davide Cerrato (formerly of Tudor, Montblanc, and Panerai) foreshadowed a pivot to a lower price point and we were genuinely excited about these releases. The strategy was sound but the implementation was flawed. The Terra Nova and the redesigned Bremont Supermarine are a stark departure from what makes Bremont loved by many, standing out as classy and refined aviation-inspired watches. Cons: The list is unfortunately long. The new logo, font, and overall design and manufacturing quality fall well short of expectations. To make matters worse, the price range places it squarely in competition with the likes of Tudor and many others. On the bright side, the brand appears to still offer the previous models (with original branding) and Special Projects appear unchanged. Understanding that a full pivot like this is bold, and takes a lot of time, effort, and money, we would love to see Bremont bounce back from this and return to its roots. Tudor Black Bay Monochrome Price: $4,225 - $4,550 We didn’t set out to profile two watches from the same brand, but Tudor came in with another solid (though predictable) win, not our fault. A follow-up to last year’s redesigned 41mm Black Bay Burgundy that added additional strap and bracelet options as well as METAS certification, the new Black Bay Monochrome makes one of Tudor’s single strongest arguments for a vintage-inspired sports watch to wear every day. Though we’ve often argued the Pelagos 39 is the modern Tudor-Sub, the Black Bay Monochrome is now right up there with a slimmer case design compared to previous iterations and more subtle looks than something like a ceramic Rolex Submariner. In our opinion, this is a major step up from the Black Bay 58, which we also love. Cons: If forced to nitpick a great watch, again enough with the faux rivets.  Fortunately, this watch is also available with a “Five-Link” (Jubilee) or an integrated rubber strap, both of which feel like better moves. Zenith DEFY Revival A3648 Price: $7,700 It’s not a name we talk about all the time in our shadowy corner of the watch world, but Zenith is a brand we respect and is also doing some very interesting things in 2024. Better known for its contributions to the world of chronographs, having unveiled one of the automatic chronographs in 1969 with the El Primero, modern Zenith balances a collection of up-to-date designs and heritage. This particular inclusion in this list is slightly less about being an ideal watch for Intel/Spec Ops and more about simply being a great new luxury tool watch. Completely overshadowed by the collection of chronographs, Zenith also produced several chunky yet capable dive watches in the late 1960s and 1970s including the rarely-seen Defy A3648. It’s not going to be for everyone, but the modern DEFY Revival A3648 is a near 1:1 of the original with a 37mm case and a very old-school feeling bracelet. With no less than 600 meters of water resistance, it’s also as capable a dive watch as you could ever want while offering a serious splash of orange on the bezel, dial, and hands that will speak to dive watch enthusiasts. Cons: It’s awesome they made this thing 37mm, but a lot of modern-day collectors might not be able to handle the lack of girth. Bright colors on watches are not for everyone (myself included), and a more subtle option might be cool to see in the future. Grand Seiko SBGJ277 Price: $6,800  Like Zenith, we seldom talk about Grand Seiko, instead concentrating on Seiko’s well-established and legendary historical associations with military special operations. With that in mind, Grand Seiko has operated as a separate brand for years now and provides some of the best watchmaking in its price category. The newly-released SBGJ277 leans into Grand Seiko’s history with high-beat mechanical calibers, in this case operating at 5 hz or 36,000 VPH. In addition, this new member of the brand’s Sport collection offers 100 meters of water resistance and a 55-hour power reserve, more than enough to suit the average Case Officer while differentiating from the established Rolex and Tudor crowds. Cons: While the finishing on this SBGJ277 is impressive for the dollar amount, the additional polished elements and textured dial both serve to create a more refined and therefore less utilitarian look. It’s not to say you couldn’t “Use Your Tools” with this watch but rather that it doesn’t look or feel the part as much as some others on this list. Again, we are not necessarily endorsing these watches, but each of them caught our eye and calls for a closer look. We understand that these watches are not cheap and if you’re interested in learning more about entry-level options that are well-suited to our community, check out “Best Watches Under $1,000 - Ask the Experts.” Next week we will resume our regular programming.  *sponsored by Rolex, Doxa, Tudor, Zenith, Bremont, and Grand Seiko (Just Kidding) -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: Remembering the Legacy of Billy Waugh Through His Watches

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Hollywood Watches of Espionage, Part II

Hollywood Watches of Espionage, Part II

Sketchy Surfers, Intelligence Officers, And A Dictator – Timepieces Add Depth To Characters While Entertaining Watch Nerds As we established in our first installment of...

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Sketchy Surfers, Intelligence Officers, And A Dictator – Timepieces Add Depth To Characters While Entertaining Watch Nerds As we established in our first installment of this series (READ HERE), watches play a significant role in film and television, particularly as it relates to the world of espionage. Watch enthusiasts can’t help but notice when a propmaster or costume designer has absolutely nailed the watch or in some cases, missed the mark entirely. Portrayals of watches on the wrists of characters representing the military and intelligence communities are often particularly challenging, with factors like paid product placement further complicating the issue. In the vast majority of films or TV shows, watches play little to no role in the overall plot, instead serving as a minor detail representing at times incredible attention to detail on behalf of the filmmakers. However, here and there, watches add something to a film as a whole, adding depth to a character or acting as a plot element. For intelligence officers and special operations, the tiniest details matter, and, if nothing else, watch spotting within the context of our community is an old-fashioned good time. In this piece, we’ll take a look at five additional examples of W.O.E. in Hollywood and provide our thoughts on the watch choices for a given character. Point Break - A Sketchy Breitling Navitimer Quartz (Pluton) Starting with one of history’s finest action films, Point Break is the improbable story of undercover FBI Agent Johnny Utah, played by Keanu Reeves, infiltrating a band of surfers with a penchant for bank robbery led by the charismatic Bodhi, portrayed by the late Patrick Swayze. While Bodhi is much too laid back and cool to wear a watch in much of the film, he does wear a Breitling Navitimer Quartz (also sometimes known as the Pluton) when it’s bank robbing time, even going so far as to say “little hand says it’s time to rock and roll” after a full-screen watch shot that we will attempt to recreate here. (Photo Credit: 20th Century Fox) It’s unclear whether Breitling’s early 90s marketing budget played a role in making the Navitimer Quartz Bodhi’s watch of choice, but it’s tough to argue with their decision-making process. Essentially the same watch as the Chronosport UDT, which was produced by Breitling and favored by Navy SEALs and other special operations forces of the day, the Navitimer Quartz provided 200 meters of water resistance and a slew of digital functions on top of its basic timekeeping abilities, exactly the kind of specs you need when you’re surfing in the morning and making tactical withdrawals in the afternoon. We don’t make the rules, sketchy dudes wear Breitling.  Jack Ryan - Hamilton Khaki Field Auto Chrono Inspired by Tom Clancy’s best-selling series of books, Jack Ryan stars John Krasinski as a CIA analyst turned special operator, almost single-handedly saving the world from certain doom at least once in each of the show’s four seasons. While any number of inexpensive digital watches from brands like G-Shock might have made even more sense given Ryan’s Global War On Terror Marine Corps background, the analyst of action opted for a Hamilton Khaki Field Auto Chrono Automatic for the first couple of seasons. Stemming from Hamilton’s Khaki collection, which is inspired by the brand’s history of producing field watches for military forces as far back as the First World War, the Khaki Field Auto Chrono opts for a tacti-cool all-black treatment from the PVD-coated stainless steel case to the hands and indices. Conceptually, an automatic chronograph with 100 meters of water resistance checks out for Ryan’s character, but we can’t help but wonder if the watch might be a little bit hard to read given the almost total lack of contrast. Overall, it’s not a terrible choice, and at just under $2,000 would be affordable for the presumed GS-13. Spy Game - Victorinox Swiss Army Officer’s 1884 In Spy Game, Robert Redford stars as Nathan Muir, a seasoned CIA Case Officer on the cusp of retirement tasked with freeing his former protégé Tom Bishop, portrayed by Brad Pitt, from imprisonment in China. Released in 2001, this film inspired a generation of post -9/11 Case Officers and is a relatively accurate (though Hollywoodized) portrayal of the business of intelligence. On Redford’s wrist throughout the film is a Victorinox Swiss Army Officer’s 1884. Victorinox is of course better known for its ubiquitous Swiss Army collection of knives and has also been a major producer of Swiss watches since at least the early 90s. While many watch snobs might turn up their noses at a brand like Victorinox, the watch makes perfect sense in this instance. Serving as the prototypical career C/O, Redford’s character is a gray man, blending in and avoiding auspicious clothing or luxury items that might solicit further questions about his background or occupation. As much as many within the CIA appreciate and use watches from luxury brands including Rolex, Tudor, or Breitling, certain circumstances require a more subtle approach. The straightforward white dial and stainless steel format of the Victorinox Swiss Army Officer’s 1884 does exactly that, providing reliable quartz timekeeping and the additional functionality provided by a secondary 24-hour scale without attracting the type of undue attention that can get you killed and, perhaps more importantly, prevent you from rescuing Brad Pitt.  The Dictator - Cartier Pasha  Revered for his seminal work Borat: Cultural Learnings of America for Make Benefit Glorious Nation of Kazakhstan, Sacha Baron Cohen’s The Dictator is the (true) story of General Aladeen, leader of oil-rich nation called Wadiya. After the assassination of yet another body double, Gen. Aladeen opts to travel to the relative safety of New York City with a Cartier Pasha on his wrist. So named for Thami El Glaoui, the Pasha of Marrakesh, the internet claims the Pasha was a special design dating back to the early 1930s and intended for the Pasha’s sporty lifestyle. Whether that’s true or not is another matter, but the story does lend itself to the inclusion of the modern Pasha, which was unveiled in 1985 and famously designed by Gerald Genta, in this film.  Still, despite the supposed history of being designed for a fabulously wealthy Middle Eastern governing figure, we can’t help but wonder whether something even more ridiculous might have been a better fit for General Aladeen’s character and lifestyle. Just to throw a few ideas out there, what about a diamond-encrusted Patek Philippe or even an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak? That said, the Pasha’s historical tie-in demonstrates great care on behalf of either Sacha Baron Cohen himself or perhaps a particularly astute wardrobe designer. The watch might even be the least ridiculous part of the entire film. Argo - Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea 116660 In Argo, based on the real story of CIA technical officer Tony Mendez, played by Ben Affleck, is tasked with extracting six Americans holed up with the Canadian ambassador in Tehran, Iran after militants stormed the US Embassy on November 4th, 1979, taking 66 American diplomats hostage. Disguised as a film producer scouting locations for a science fiction film in Tehran, Affleck’s character wears a Rolex, which would theoretically be right in keeping with his cover assuming the Rolex in question was period correct. No joy, however, as the Rolex worn by Affleck in Argo was a decidedly modern Sea-Dweller Deepsea reference 116660, a watch released by the Crown in 2008.  How this came to pass is anyone’s guess. In 2022, Hodinkee reported an urban legend that the prop department provided a replica of a period-correct Rolex Submariner for Affleck to wear, but the actor preferred a genuine Rolex. Any Rolex from the era, but perhaps especially the Submariner, would have made perfect sense. A posh Hollywood producer wearing a rugged luxury watch intended for diving for his adventurous location-scouting trip to Tehran? Hell yes. Instead, a modern 44mm Rolex theoretically designed for saturation diving time traveled to 1979 to assist Affleck on his personnel extraction adventure, once again proving that details matter in espionage as well as filmmaking.  If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: Bond: A Case for Omega

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W.O.E. Collaboration With Tactile Turn

W.O.E. Collaboration With Tactile Turn

Pen, Flashlight, Knife, Watch - The Essentials “If you didn’t write it down, it didn't happen” is a common saying in the intelligence business.  In...

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Pen, Flashlight, Knife, Watch - The Essentials “If you didn’t write it down, it didn't happen” is a common saying in the intelligence business.  In a digital era, there is something satisfying about staying old school, and a custom pen, built to last a lifetime, is a must. Custom Tactile Turn X W.O.E. Titanium Pen TENTATIVE RE-RELEASE DATE 20 AUGUST 2024 View Here For CIA Case Officers, a quality pen and 3x5 cards are essential aspects of everyday carry and they are still items I carry religiously to this day. Despite rapid advancements in note-taking devices, I still defer to a pen and paper regularly. As a part of our ongoing effort to produce the best possible custom tools, we set out to design a purpose-built writing instrument fit for our community. Enter the W.O.E. Custom Tactile Turn Bolt Action Pen. Milled from a solid block of titanium in the United States, our pen is lightweight and durable. For a premium feel, we opted for Tactile Turn’s Bolt Action construction, which extends or retracts the refill with one smooth, spring-loaded motion, more satisfying than the hollow click from your drugstore ten-pack of pens. Inspired by our love for PVD-coated watches, we PVD’d the inside of the bolt and the clip, adding a subtle “Tactile Turn X WOE” engraving on the clip’s underside. Most importantly, the bolt is operated by way of a unique watch-style crown with a spearhead engraving. Details matter. It is so often the little things that have the greatest impact. To be clear, this is by no means a “tactical pen”. Our titanium pen is a TSA-approved item primarily intended for writing, though we admit it may have other uses. We’ll leave it at that. Far from inexpensive perishable pens, our Bolt Action Pen is designed to last a lifetime and utilizes readily available Pilot G2 0.7mm refills. For the complete specifications, read HERE. Product Development At W.O.E. At Watches of Espionage, our product development model is to partner with true professionals – masters of their craft – to develop distinct and highly functional products that honor our community and our core belief that you should “use your tools.” In creating our ideal Everyday Carry (EDC) pen, we reached out to Tactile Turn because they are the best in the business at creating high-quality writing tools, hand-machined in Texas, right here in the United States. As a company, we seek to partner with US manufacturers and use our platform to promote their craftsmanship. Working with Tactile Turn has been a pleasure, and it is no surprise that there is a significant crossover between the watch and EDC communities. The good people at Tactile Turn are industry leaders for a reason, doing incredibly detailed and consistent work machined by hand. They are also true innovators and were able to prototype the watch-style crown to produce a unique product for our community. Further, they stand behind their work with a lifetime warranty for all of their products including our W.O.E. Bolt Action Pen. About Tactile Turn Tactile Turn was founded in 2012 by Will Hodges who happens to be a watch guy with Tudor, Sinn, and OMEGA in the collection. Frustrated by the disconnect between the things we buy and how they’re made, Will took things into his own hands, purchasing a WWII-era lathe and producing his first 1000 pens completely by hand. Things have taken off since then, and Tactile Turn now operates a serious 48,000-square-foot production facility in Dallas, Texas where a small team of machinists produce every single pen by hand. Will is still at the helm and still obsessed with producing quality pens in the United States that will probably outlive their owners. At W.O.E., we only work with suppliers who understand the "use your tools" ethos, and Tactile Turn is an excellent example. TENTATIVE RELEASE DATE 20 AUGUST 2024 View Here All photos are courtesy of Ed Jelley.

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The W.O.E. Tudor PVD Pelagos FXD

The W.O.E. Tudor PVD Pelagos FXD

Customizing my dream watch, the W.O.E. PVD Pelagos FXD When Tudor released the Black Pelagos FXD last year, I instantly knew I wanted one to...

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Customizing my dream watch, the W.O.E. PVD Pelagos FXD When Tudor released the Black Pelagos FXD last year, I instantly knew I wanted one to land in my collection.  Watches of Espionage is vehemently brand agnostic, but we have a special respect for Tudor, given the brand's seven-plus decade relationship with our community.  The FXD platform is the latest manifestation of this particular relationship. It’s the only modern “luxury” watch that was developed for not one, but two, modern SpecOps units. And I don’t mean a special edition made for a specific unit–the entire design, and every design decision, of the FXD stems from a particular use case in the SpecOps world.  That said, I already had the blue French “Commando Hubert” version. Was it prudent to want the same watch, just in black?   Of course. This whole passion is irrational anyway.  But if I was going to go for this watch, I wanted to do something different with it.  Over the past six months, I worked with several craftsmen to customize the FXD to make it mine, a poor man's “pièce unique”. The first thing we did was PVD’d the titanium fixed spring bar case resulting in a striking black-on-black look. This of course involves taking the whole case apart and PVDing each element, including the bezel. The PVD also has a mostly matte finish, so it matches the ceramic bezel insert well. Even though this was going to be mine, I wanted to maintain a standard that could have come from the factory. And since the caseback is sterile from the factory, we topped it off by engraving a W.O.E. insignia. Every watch has meaning, and this one commemorates the establishment of W.O.E. as a community, an accomplishment I never set out to achieve. The last step was designing a new handmade strap with our friends at Zulu Alpha, the W.O.E.-ZA 4.0 (available HERE).  That’s an overview of the watch; now I’ll get into the thought process behind each detail and my philosophy behind modifying this particular piece.  The W.O.E. FXD The W.O.E. FXD (if I can be vain enough to call it that) is a homage, a term that may conjure images of Seikos modified to look like Rolex – something that I am personally not a fan of.  But it’s an homage in the true sense of the word, specifically to the SpecOps who modified their Tudor MilSubs for operational use. One popular narrative is that the Orfina Porsche Design Chronograph I was the first PVD watch. However, SpecOps personnel modified their Swiss tool watches long before that.  Most notably, the Israeli Defense Force (IDF) Shayetet 13 (S-13) frogmen darkened their issued Tudor Submariner 7928 in the late 1960s, crudely painting them black to prevent glare and reflection of the steel cases.  For Special Operations personnel, and particularly those in a maritime environment, the glint of a watch during an operation could have lethal consequences.  The watches were tools, and they were modified to carry out their job effectively.  While it’s nearly impossible to trace the lineage of PVD watches for every brand, military applications likely had a direct impact on this development of all PVD watches. In fact, Rolex's only known “black” dive watch was a one-off blacked out version of the MilSub Ref. 5513 for the South African Special Forces.  While Rolex didn’t roll out PVD in a commercial capacity, its sister brand, Tudor, would go on to produce PVD watches in later years, whether directly influenced by the S-13 and other military units we can only speculate.  But heritage matters; it informs every decision a brand makes. PVD: StealthMaxx DLC Finish Recalling that our friend Cole Pennington PVD’d an Arabic Seiko for a Hodinkee Magazine article, I contacted Jack at International Watch Works, a family-owned business.  When asked about the feasibility of PVD’ing the titanium case, he said it was not a problem; he had in fact just completed PVD’ing a blue Marine Nationale FXD (which turned out to be for Tom Place, a stuntman searching for his long-lost Rolex at the bottom of a lake).  The process was relatively simple.  Jack disassembled the watch and coated every bit of titanium, leaving the dial assembly and ceramic bezel insert to the side.  “PVD” is an abbreviation for Physical Vapor Deposition. It’s a process, not necessarily a coating. A solid material is selected, in this case diamond like carbon (DLC), to coat a base metal or substrate surface. That material is vaporized and deposited on the base or substrate material, bonding molecularly with the base material. The PVD/DLC coating is so fine that the serial numbers and factory engravings on the caseback are still visible even after the coating. It’s only microns thick; it’s not thick enough to obscure the characteristics of the case. Having worn the watch daily and with a lot of time in the pool and ocean, I have noticed no wear or abrasion on the coating, although I wouldn’t necessarily view scars as a bad thing.  During our conversation, Jack informed me that he has PVD’d watches for SpecOps personnel for years, which comes as no surprise given his location in North Carolina. Engraving: Always Read the Caseback The W.O.E. insignia signifies a very deep meaning for many in our community, with influence from the spearhead worn by our predecessors in the WWII-era Office of Strategic Services (OSS) as well as modern day intel and SpecOps units.  Today, this insignia has become an important part of my life. It’s a source of pride that I don’t share with many.  The caseback engraving is covered by the strap and that’s just how I like it. It's not for you, it’s for me.  The deep diamond tip engraving through the PVD into the titanium creates a more substantial profile and a stark contrast to the black case. It’s bold. Looking at it, it’s easy to see how much meaning comes with it.  W.O.E. - Zulu Alpha 4.0 Strap As a “fixed” springbar case, the Pelagos FXD is often called a “strap monster”-- a term so overused it’s become meaningless. Yes, any 22mm strap will work on the watch, but it’s really about finding the right strap. With a customization like this, I wanted to ensure the strap was the perfect match–subtle enough not to overshadow the watch. So I reached out to our friends at UK-based and veteran owned Zulu Alpha Straps to create a unique design that honored our ethos as a community and tapped into the traditions of those who came before us.  The result is an understated olive allied green strap with a discreet W.O.E. spearhead-only insignia applied between the strap keepers, which is covered up when worn. Again, it’s not about showing the insignia. Like the caseback, it’s obscured when the watch is worn.  The development of this strap coincided with Zulu Alpha’s latest iteration of the “OTAN” strap and significant performance enhancements.  To promote longevity, the strap has a narrower tang, round holes, and a slightly shorter length at 30 cm.  The “patch” was adhered directly to the strap with a new technology developed by ZA, resulting in a OEM feel.  While we never planned to commercialize this version, we knew we would receive many requests, so this is dubbed, the W.O.E.-ZA 4.0. Photo Credit: Rob / @rw_m100 Dial Modification I have considered customizing the dial with a red W.O.E. at 6 o’clock.  That said, this would require a complete dial refinish.  While the watch is striking to those who know the FXD, when worn it's a more subtle customization as there are no visible insignias.  Discretion is a prized attribute in our field, if you know, you know is the way. Controversy of Watch Customization Customizing watches is a major point of contention in the collecting community, with many “purists” believing the watches should remain as they were originally designed.  Turning this upside-down, London-based George Bamford originally made a name for himself in the 2000s for customizing Rolex watches into unconventional designs, much to the chagrin of the Swiss luxury brands.   Bamford Watch modification (A Blog to Watch) However, times have changed, and Bamford has since been embraced by many watch houses and even has joint customizations programs with major brands including Zenith and Tag Heuer.  Further, “mod culture” as it’s known appears to have trickled into mainstream design and while the suits in Geneva would never admit it, the new Day-Date “emoji dial” is certainly reminiscent of a customized dial treatment than a traditional Rolex design.   Will we see a PVD FXD released from Tudor? Tudor’s playbook is simple.  It designs a watch, releases it to the masses and then iterates on that design with size, material, and color schemes.  This process has led some detractors to criticize the brand (Do we really need another Black Bay?)--but in the end, it works.  While selfishly I hope this remains one of the few “PVD FXDs,” it would be an easy win for Tudor to produce this design for the masses and I wouldn’t be surprised if we saw a version become available to the public in the coming years. A Few Thoughts To the uninitiated, this article may seem like a waste of time.  So, what, you painted your watch black?  Maybe. But it’s never just a watch.  When I look at this watch, I think of the people that made both it and W.O.E. a reality, and of all the times it’s been on my wrist.  No matter where this platform goes, it will always hold a special place because it is uniquely mine. There Are No Rules We are of the strong belief that there are no rules when it comes to timepieces.  If you want to polish your Rolex every few years to keep it looking shiny, do it.  If your dream is to modify your Patek to look like a Seiko, have fun.  If you want to put aftermarket diamonds on your AP to celebrate making it out of the trap, congratulations.   Don’t let conventional wisdom and outside pressure dictate how you enjoy this passion. Life’s too short to live in a box dictated by the watch industry suits or hype collectors pushing an agenda.  Have fun, use your tools, and don't take things too seriously.  -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our free weekly newsletter for further updates HERE.  Sincere appreciation to my dear friend and master of his craft James Rupley for capturing these pictures of the W.O.E. FXD and really bringing it to life for the community. Read Next: James Bond Should Wear a Rolex

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W.O.E. On YouTube: How G-Shock Became The Watch Of The Military

W.O.E. On YouTube: How G-Shock Became The Watch Of The Military

Affordable Yet Capable Digital Watches Favored By SEALs, Special Forces, & Intelligence Officers It’s hard to believe we’re already on our third video on the...

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Affordable Yet Capable Digital Watches Favored By SEALs, Special Forces, & Intelligence Officers It’s hard to believe we’re already on our third video on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel. There’s been a steep learning curve in adapting to the new platform, but the response has been surprising and humbling. THANK YOU for your support and stay tuned. We have a lot of great stuff in the pipeline. While W.O.E. often focuses on analog mechanical tool watches, the reality today is that the majority of special operators utilize affordable digital watches including the G-Shock, which has also been widely issued across the US Military in particular. Our third video provides an in-depth look at G-Shock, affordable digital watches from Japan that have earned a place on the wrists of elite military operators and intelligence officers since the 1980s. Whether you’re a seasoned luxury watch snob or a G-Shock fanboy, you can’t argue with the utility and unmatched durability offered by even the most inexpensive G-Shock models. -W.O.E.

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Announcement: The Watches Of Espionage Coffee Table Book

Announcement: The Watches Of Espionage Coffee Table Book

Share Your Military-Issued Watches, Custom Unit Projects, & Operationally Worn Watches To Be Included In Our Upcoming Book We have big news. Watches of Espionage...

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Share Your Military-Issued Watches, Custom Unit Projects, & Operationally Worn Watches To Be Included In Our Upcoming Book We have big news. Watches of Espionage is in the early stages of working on a coffee table book that will offer a closer look at some of your favorite stories from the Dispatch as well as completely new content, all supported by brand-new professional photography from our regular photographic contributor and publisher, James Rupley. A US Navy UDT-issue Tudor Submariner 7928 from W.O.E.'s personal collection. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) As always, everything we do is for, with, and through the community. Our book will be no different, and we are looking for individuals with interesting watches to feature in our first printed publication. If you’re in the DC/Maryland/Virginia area or willing to travel there and have an interesting watch you wore operationally in the military, special operations, or intelligence, we’d love to hear from you. Here’s what we’re looking for: Military-issued watches. Unit watches i.e. custom Tudor, Omega, Bremont, Breitling, etc… Mechanical timepieces that were worn in an operational capacity. If any of these apply to any of the watches in your collection, please let us know by completing this brief survey HERE. As always, thank you for your support. -W.O.E.

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Veterans Watchmaker Initiative & The Global Watchmaker Shortage

Veterans Watchmaker Initiative & The Global Watchmaker Shortage

The World Needs Watchmakers & A Unique Organization Aims To Help Fill The Gap With Veterans Bolstered by the rise of social media and a...

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The World Needs Watchmakers & A Unique Organization Aims To Help Fill The Gap With Veterans Bolstered by the rise of social media and a slew of watch-related platforms, the internet has made the age-old art and science of horology cool once again. Ironically, as more people enter the hobby, the global watch industry faces a labor crisis. Becoming a skilled watchmaker is no joke, and there are simply not enough qualified watchmakers to go around. In this Dispatch, we’ll discuss the watchmaker shortage, including how we got here, what the industry is doing about it, and a unique opportunity for veterans who want to get involved. It may not feel like an obvious choice, but if you’re a disabled veteran in search of a new career, watchmaking may be one to consider. An organization called the Veterans Watchmaker Initiative provides all but completely free initial watchmaker training, credentialing, and even help with job placement. What Is A Watchmaker? (Photo Credit: VWI) Watches date back to the 16th Century, and watchmakers were artisans who hand-fabricated every component of every single watch they produced. By the early 1900s, standardization took over, with watch companies focusing on mass production using interchangeable components. A watchmaker from the Swiss Vallée de Joux. (Photo Credit: Musée de l’Elysée, Lausanne) Watchmaking changed from a largely European artisanal cottage industry to a broader technical field where budding watchmakers could learn the ways of assembling, maintaining, and repairing watches and “calibers”, which is what watch nerds and the French call the movement. Until the 1960s, watches were virtually all powered by mechanical means. That, coupled with the fact that almost everyone used to wear a watch, meant watchmaking was a small but legitimate career field supported by trade schools, apprenticeship programs, and infrastructure providing aftermarket components for servicing or repair. The Quartz Crisis To Today The release of the Seiko Astron spurred the Quartz Crisis, the effects of which directly influenced the current watchmaker shortage. (Photo Credit: Seiko) While there were numerous earlier efforts with electronic timekeeping, Seiko’s 1969 release of the Astron launched what came to be known as the “Quartz Crisis”, a major contributor to today’s watchmaker shortage. Bad news for watchmakers, quartz calibers were easier to mass produce and would quickly become far less expensive than their mechanical counterparts. Some estimates indicate the number of watchmakers employed just in Switzerland dropped by over 60% during the 1970s while the Swiss watch industry as a whole saw its employment decline from 90,000 at its peak to just 28,000 during the same period. Inexpensive digital quartz watches from Japan like the Casio Casiotron of 1974 emperiled the Swiss industry like never before. (Photo Credit: Casio USA) As the need for watchmaking declined with the rise of quartz, the once-proud trade of watchmaking became less profitable and attractive and the watchmaking needs of those who still preferred mechanical timekeeping were increasingly met by an aging population of watchmakers, a trend that continues into modern times. The numbers are staggering. A watchmaker at work at Patek Philippe's "The Art Of Watches" exhibition in 2017. (Photo Credit: CNN/Getty) According to Jordan Ficklin, the executive director of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI), today there are an estimated 4,000 watchmakers in the United States, a decrease of as much as 90% compared to the 1960s. Of course, there are fewer mechanical watches out and about compared to that period, but the shortage still means backlogs for watch repairs stretch into the years in some instances. Becoming A Watchmaker In 2024 (Photo Credit: VWI) As internet-based watch enthusiasm has spurred a modern renaissance for mechanical watches at virtually all levels of the industry, the supply of newly minted watchmakers has failed to keep pace. Every year, hundreds of watchmakers who were trained before the Quartz Crisis retire with only a handful of qualified replacements stepping up to take up the reins. But let’s say you’re interested in watches and seriously considering taking up watchmaking as a career choice, how does one become a watchmaker in the first place? At least in the United States, there are essentially two options. A budding watchmaker can either attend a formal school—and there are only a few in the US—or complete an apprenticeship program. There are only a handful of certified watchmaking schools in the United States including Gem City College School of Horology in Quincy, Illinois (Photo Credit: AWCI) With a formal watchmaking school, students pay to attend a program lasting from two to four years. The schools also typically work with brands and other entities to employ newly minted watchmakers, which is the easy part given the shortage. With an eye towards self-preservation more than altruism, many watchmaking schools are subsidized by the brands. Apprenticeships, the old-school way of becoming a watchmaker, still exist but are rare in the United States today. In most cases, apprentices don’t get paid, making this a challenging route. (Photo Credit: VWI) In either case, if you can get yourself trained or experienced or both to a solid level, there is no shortage of jobs out there waiting for qualified watchmakers, some of which pay surprisingly well compared to a traditional college education for non-binary art history or whatever kids are studying these days. If you’re a veteran, there is another unique opportunity out there that is so good, we almost didn’t think it was real. Veterans Watchmaker Initiative Sam Cannan founded VWI in 2017. (Photo Credit: VWI) Starting in 2015, Sam Cannan, a retired Baltimore police officer turned watchmaker, set out on a unique journey, to create a school for disabled veterans to learn watchmaking. Even more challenging, Cannan aimed to make the school completely free of charge, providing a pathway for veterans to learn a skilled trade and earn gainful employment in a high-demand career field. It took a couple of years, but Cannan eventually found a building in Odessa, Delaware where he set up shop, donated by the New Castle County government for $1 a year. The Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking was founded after the Second World War and provided no-cost watchmaker training to disabled veterans. (Photo Credit: Bulova) Calling back to the Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking founded in WWII to provide veterans of the wars in Europe and the Pacific with free watchmaker training, Bulova came on board as a founding sponsor. In return, VWI is also an authorized Bulova service center, and students finishing the school’s full 16-month watchmaker training course attend a further three-month internship repairing watches within the service center. While studying, students also have the option to live in a nearby house owned by the school, providing an opportunity for students to obtain an almost completely free education in watchmaking. (Photo Credit: VWI) The program’s graduates are in high demand and have been placed—with the program’s assistance—within the Richemont and Swatch Groups as well as brands like Patek Philippe, with a near 100% placement rate for students graduating from the full watchmaker course. Staring into a watch movement wearing a loupe may seem like a far cry from the realities of military service, but many program attendees and particularly those diagnosed with PTSD as a service-connected disability describe the trade as therapeutic, providing a level of mental health support in addition to promising career implications. If you’re a disabled veteran and interested in attending one of VWI’s courses, which also include a shorter six-week watch technician program, click HERE to learn more. Watchmaking In 2024 (Photo Credit: VWI) Thus far, a renewed interest in mechanical watches has failed to spur a new generation of watchmakers. However, with the help of programs like VWI, hope is on the horizon. As is often the case with the so-called “Skills Gap”, awareness is at the core of the issue. If watch brands both big and small hope to persevere, qualified watchmakers must exist at all levels, ready to handle assembly at the production level as well as after-sales service whether handled by an authorized dealer or an independent watch repair business. As we’ve described, brands including Bulova are stepping up to help—in its interest as much as anything—but we would argue a broader effort from the largest players is necessary to keep pace with a majority retirement-age watchmaking workforce. Especially for disabled veterans searching for a skilled career field that is also in high demand, watchmaking might be a great place to look. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Advice for Buying a Watch

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W.O.E. CIA Reading List Part 1 - The Global War On Terror

W.O.E. CIA Reading List Part 1 - The Global War On Terror

Top Picks From A CIA Case Officer’s Bookshelf One of the most common requests we receive is for a reading list on intelligence, special operations,...

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Top Picks From A CIA Case Officer’s Bookshelf One of the most common requests we receive is for a reading list on intelligence, special operations, and national security. While this is a little outside our scope of Watches of Espionage, we are encouraged by this question because it demonstrates a desire to learn more about impactful topics within our community. With that in mind, I took a hard look at my library and queried other friends on their favorite books on intelligence and SpecOps to create an incomplete but workable list. There are a lot of great books out there on these subjects. For brevity’s sake, we elected to make this a series, with the first installment focused on books covering the Global War On Terror that raged for 20 years in the aftermath of the attacks on September 11th, 2001. We encourage you to add your favorite reads to the comments.  CIA’s Team Alpha Prior to Insertion into Afghanistan in the wake of 9/11. While the purpose of this platform isn’t to inspire the next generation of public servants, we are quickly learning this is a byproduct of W.O.E., which is great. So whether you are a student interested in a career at CIA or a washed-up dad wanting to relive the glory days, here are some great books to keep you entertained, informed, and educated. *We have added affiliate Amazon links for each book if you want to purchase directly from Amazon and support the site. If not, that's cool too. The Global War On Terror (GWOT) In Books Kill Bin Laden: A Delta Force Commander's Account of the Hunt for the World's Most Wanted Man, Dalton Fury In Kill Bin Laden, retired US Army Major Thomas Greer, whose action movie-style pen name is Dalton Fury, describes his firsthand experiences as a senior Delta Force officer during the hunt for Osama Bin Laden including a riveting eyewitness account of the Battle Of Tora Bora in 2001. Of note, he also has some great fiction reads similar to Jack Carr. The Way of the Knife: The CIA, a Secret Army, and a War at the Ends of the Earth, Mark Mazzetti While we’re typically hard on reporters, Mark Mazzetti, a Pulitzer Prize winner, provides an excellent multi-faceted look at modern warfare by sharing the stories of intelligence officers, special operators, and CIA assets including at least one socialite. There is some great detail in this book that would never pass the CIA’s Publication Review Board. Licensed to Kill: Hired Guns in the War on Terror, Robert Young Pelton A closer look at the world of private military contractors (PMC), Licensed to Kill details CIA’s “Dirty Wars”, contractor training, and some of the most prominent successes and failures of private military contractors, often operating without oversight or repercussions when they cross the line. If you want to learn more about the Blackwater Breitling, this is a good place to start and about as unbiased as it gets on this controversial topic. Jawbreaker: The Attack on Bin Laden and Al-Qaeda: A Personal Account by the CIA's Key Field Commander, Gary Berntsen & Ralph Pezzullo This time coming from the Agency’s perspective, Jawbreaker is career CIA Case Officer Gary Berntsten’s first-hand experience coordinating the CIA's fight against the Taliban while searching for Usama bin Laden in the war’s early years. First In: An Insider's Account of How the CIA Spearheaded the War on Terror in Afghanistan, Gary Schroen Gary Schroen was a legendary CIA Case Officer who led the initial Northern Alliance Liaison Team—codenamed “Jawbreaker”—into Afghanistan, in late 2001. First In is his account of some of the first boots on the ground belonging to a team of CIA Officers tasked with linking up with the Northern Alliance in the Panjshir Valley. We profiled Schroen and his Rolex Submariner in a previous Dispatch, read HERE. First Casualty: The Untold Story of the CIA Mission to Avenge 9/11, Toby Harnden One of the best-researched accounts of the first phase of the war in the aftermath of 9/11, Toby Harnden’s book, First Casualty, should be required reading for anyone looking for a 10,000-foot overview of the CIA and US Army Special Forces’ efforts in Afghanistan in the Fall of 2001. Of note, Harnden also wrote a Dispatch on Israeli Spy Eli Cohen’s Eterna-Matic Centenaire Recovered by Mossad, read HERE. The Triple Agent: The al-Qaeda Mole who Infiltrated the CIA, Joby Warrick Coming from another Pulitzer Prize-winning reporter, Joby Warrick’s The Triple Agent is the harrowing narrative of Humam Khalil al-Balawi, a Jordanian double agent who claimed the lives of seven CIA Case Officers and Paramilitary Officers at a secret outpost in Afghanistan in 2009.  This was required reading for several courses at CIA and an important study of counterintelligence in counterterrorism operations. Hunting the Jackal: A Special Forces and CIA Ground Soldier's Fifty-Year Career Hunting America's Enemies, Billy Waugh & Tim Keown A legend among SpecOps and the Agency, Billy Waugh fought in Vietnam with US Army Special Forces and worked as a contractor for CIA in Khartoum, Sudan in the early 90s keeping tabs on a certain bad actor named Usama bin Laden. When the GWOT kicked off, Waugh, who was then 71, deployed to Afghanistan to continue his lifelong service to our country. Waugh is also a W.O.E. Dispatch profile alum, having worn some of history’s great tool watches throughout his adventure-filled life including a Rolex GMT-Master, Seiko 6409, and numerous Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.) throughout his career. Click HERE to read more. Ghost Wars: The Secret History of the CIA, Afghanistan, and bin Laden, from the Soviet Invasion to September 10, 2001, Steve Coll Where many of the books we’ve mentioned thus far cover the events immediately following 9/11, Steve Coll’s Ghost Wars concentrates on the intelligence efforts before September 11th including CIA’s clandestine efforts to subvert Soviet action in Afghanistan in the 1980s. I read and reread this book every time I went to Afghanistan, and it is one of the most comprehensive histories of the US Government's involvement in the region. Directorate S: The C.I.A. and America's Secret Wars in Afghanistan and Pakistan, Steve Coll Another Steve Coll piece, Directorate S covers the intelligence challenges faced by CIA in Afghanistan caused by Pakistani ISI’s "Directorate S", a highly secretive wing of the country’s intelligence service charged with arming, training, and attempting to legitimize the Taliban’s role in the region. This is a great follow-on reading to Ghost Wars. Surprise, Kill, Vanish: The Secret History of CIA Paramilitary Armies, Operators, and Assassins, Annie Jacobsen Another text looking at CIA’s Paramilitary operations, Surprise, Kill, Vanish provides a high-level overview of the history of CIA's Special Activities Division (SAD / SAC) interwoven with firsthand accounts of the secretive unit’s actions during the Cold War and the GWOT. I will note, while this is a good read with lots of great information, several sections are over-Hollywoodized and not as accurate as they appear. 13 Hours: The Inside Account of What Really Happened In Benghazi, Mitchell Zuckoff with the Annex Security Team 13 Hours is a detailed account of the events of September 11th, 2012, when a six-man team of GRS security contractors working for the US Government defended a CIA annex and a State Department Special Mission Compound from armed militants in Benghazi, Libya. Also having been made into a feature film of the same name starring the dreamy John Krasinski, 13 Hours also offers some premium Rolex Submariner content on the wrist of Ty "Rone" Woods, a CIA Global Response Staff contractor played by James Badge Dale. The Looming Tower: Al-Qaeda and the Road to 9/11, Lawrence Wright Another prequel to the events of 9/11 and the GWOT to follow, The Looming Tower is a Pulitzer Prize-winning narrative describing Usama bin Laden and Ayman al-Zawahiri’s ascent to the heights of global terrorism as well as the FBI’s efforts to track and understand the emerging threat presented by al-Qaeda in the 1990s. This is the best read on helping understand the events that led to the attacks on September 11th and an easy read. Send Me: The True Story of a Mother at War, Marty Skovlund Jr. & Joe Kent Authored by our good friend Marty Skovlund Jr. and former CIA Joe Kent, the subject’s widower, Send Me is the incredible story of Senior Chief Petty Officer Shannon Kent, a trailblazing female special operator, gifted linguist, and mother of two who served with Naval Special Warfare and CIA during the Global War On Terror, ultimately losing her life in a suicide bombing in Syria in 2019. Relentless Strike: The Secret History of Joint Special Operations Command, Sean Naylor Relentless Strike is one of the best overviews of Joint Special Operations Command or JSOC, the parent organization that serves as operational control for Delta Force, the 75th Ranger Regiment, SEAL Team Six, and other secretive intelligence and aviation assets. From its humble beginnings in the 80s to its exponentially larger role in the GWOT, JSOC became one of the United States’ most impactful weapons in the fight against terrorism. There is some great CIA content also in this book that is scarily accurate. Not a Good Day to Die: The Untold Story of Operation Anaconda, Sean Naylor An in-depth account of Operation Anaconda, Not a Good Day to Die is intelligence and counterterrorism reporter Sean Naylor’s beautifully researched description of one of the United States’ bloodiest battles in the Global War On Terror. This work details the early actions of SOF, JSOC, and CIA in the early days of the conflict in Afghanistan. No Easy Day: The Firsthand Account of the Mission that Killed Osama Bin Laden, Mark Owen & Kevin Maurer Where 9/11 is the event that caused the GWOT, the killing of Usama Bin Laden in 2011 is perhaps the second-most crucial event marking the culmination of an unprecedented intelligence effort by CIA and a harrowing raid by SEAL Team Six, which is described in detail in No Easy Day by Mark Owen, a veteran SEAL operator who was on the mission. While we generally roll our eyes at SEAL books, this is an incredible insight into SEAL Team Six and a first-hand account of this historic operation. See No Evil: The True Story of a Ground Soldier in the CIA's War Against Terrorism, Robert Baer Another account from a CIA Officer serving before and in the opening phases of the GWOT, See No Evil is an incendiary look at what the author sees as the Agency’s intelligence failures as well as a description of the roots of modern terrorism. Bob Baer is a controversial figure at CIA and many say his reputation is less than stellar. That said, this book inspired an entire generation of CIA officers, coming out shortly after September 11th. Horse Soldiers: The Extraordinary Story of a Band of US Soldiers Who Rode to Victory in Afghanistan, Doug Stanton One of the GWOT’s most iconic images is that of US Army Special Forces riding horses into battle in Afghanistan shortly after September 11th. Horse Soldiers tells the story of how these American special operators blended old-school cavalry tactics with modern warfare to fight the earliest battles of the early GWOT. This book sets a good foundation for our follow-on piece by former senior CIA Case Officer J.R. Seeger writes about the role his watches played in the early days of the conflict in Afghanistan (read HERE). The Accidental Guerrilla: Fighting Small Wars in the Midst of a Big One, David Kilcullen Providing a global perspective on the Global War On Terror, David Kilcullen’s The Accidental Gorilla contextualizes the importance of smaller conflicts and intelligence operations in Indonesia, Thailand, Pakistan, the Horn of Africa, and East Timor and their role in the more prominent wars in Iraq and Afghanistan. The More You Know Beyond their entertainment value, these books provide detailed history and incredible firsthand accounts of how modern warfare, special operations, and intelligence collection unfolded over 20 years of war in Iraq, Afghanistan, and around the globe. Setting politics aside, the GWOT presents myriad cases of true heroism displayed by regular soldiers, intelligence officers, and SpecOps personnel at all levels of the war. There are, of course, numerous other books detailing the events of the Global War On Terror including thousands written by Navy SEALs, but this list is a great place to start. As they say, the more you know... If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Israeli Spy Eli Cohen’s Eterna-Matic Centenaire Recovered by Mossad   *As a disclaimer, as Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases. When you click on links to various books in this article and make a purchase, this can result in Watches of Espionage earning a commission. If you’re interested in these books and want to make a purchase using these links, we appreciate your support.

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Watches As A Propaganda Tool - Russia, Ukraine, & The United States

Watches As A Propaganda Tool - Russia, Ukraine, & The United States

From the Cold War To The War In Ukraine, Watches Are Used As A Propaganda Tool, But Are They Effective? In June 2022, Ukrainian President...

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From the Cold War To The War In Ukraine, Watches Are Used As A Propaganda Tool, But Are They Effective? In June 2022, Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky visited the frontline troops on Ukraine's Armed Forces Day and presented soldiers with Ukrainian-produced Kleynold watches. The tradition of presenting watches to military personnel as commemorative gifts is long, but these watches served another purpose. With a government photographer on hand to capture the moment, the Ukrainian-produced Kleynold KFS-820s were tools of propaganda, a public demonstration of unity, patriotism, and Ukrainian ingenuity. This is just the latest example of watches used as tools of influence by Ukraine, the Soviet Union, and the United States. Cold War Of Covert Influence During the Cold War, the United States and the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (USSR) competed on several “battlefields.” These included “hot wars” like Korea and Vietnam, “near-miss Armageddons” such as the Cuban Missile Crisis, and shadowy proxy wars around the world. One of the lesser-known battlefields involved influence operations. Both superpowers used overt, clandestine, and covert resources to influence non-aligned populations in Asia, Africa, and Latin America. In the United States, the lead agency was the US State Department and, specifically, the Policy Planning Staff (PPS). George Kennan, the State Department senior official responsible for the PPS, served in Moscow and realized that in the case of the USSR, the United States faced an implacable foe under Joseph Stalin determined to control the world either by force of arms or by political warfare. George F. Kennan pictured in Geneva, Switzerland. To counter that threat, Kennan prepared a series of papers at State addressing political warfare's challenges. Kennan understood that a successful program would have to include every possible tool in the national security tool kit. This included public diplomacy, economic and military support to neutrals as well as allies, and clandestine and covert influence programs run by the newly formed Central Intelligence Agency.  The diverse set of CIA operations supporting this strategic plan included clandestine publishing and delivery of books banned in the USSR such as Boris Paternak’s Doctor Zhivago, smuggling news and music radio broadcasts into the Warsaw Pact countries and the USSR, and effective use of “agents of influence” to deliver a US-orchestrated message. Traditional Propaganda To counter this effort, the USSR used similar techniques. In the case of strategic communications, the USSR offered foreign journalists tours of “Potemkin villages” presenting the power of the communist economy. The May Day celebrations included displays of the Soviet military might, and in 1960, they created an international university in Moscow, Patrice Lumumba University, to train future non-aligned leaders. The KGB conducted “active measures” propaganda using their own agents of influence designed to portray the West and most especially the US as a poverty-stricken, depraved nation. The greatest tool in the Soviet propaganda tool kit was their space program. While US rockets were blowing up on the launch pad, the Soviets launched a small satellite, SPUTNIK, in October 1957 which broadcasted a radio signal as it orbited the Earth. In April 1961, the Soviets put the first man, Yuri Gagarin, into orbit, providing rocket fuel for the USSR’s propaganda program. The Soviet Union & Watches The Soviet Union had a basic watch industry before the start of World War II, but it was after the war that their watchmaking endeavors shifted from producing watches for the war effort to a blend of military and civilian programs. Two of the best-known of these 20th-century watch factories were VOSTOK (“East” in Russian) and the Petrodvorets Watch Factory (later renamed RAKETA, Russian for “rocket” after Yuri Gagarin’s epic flight). Both companies produced basic, easy-to-service, reliable hand-wound watches. Both RAKETA and VOSTOK watches were worn by Soviet political and military leaders as well as Soviet astronauts, pilots, and polar explorers. Soviet watch designs were also distinctive (for example the “Big Zero” Raketa). They also offered creative designs for water resistance including the legendary Vostok Amphibia that relied on increasing water pressure at depth to secure its water resistance. Raketa “Big Zero” in a chrome-plated cushion case with short, curved lugs (Photo Credit: Vintage Watch Inc) Beginning in the 1960s, both factories began to produce watches that advertised Soviet successes in military operations, space, and exploration. These watches had dial designs including Gagarin’s face, Soviet tanks, Soviet ships, submarines, and Soviet aircraft. These designs were primarily focused on building solidarity within the Soviet Union, but they were also exported around the globe allowing citizens of non-aligned countries with weak economies to own a reliable watch marked in English as “MADE IN USSR”.  Vintage Raketa with Soviet astronaut Yuri Gagarin on the dial. The objective was clear: While the West produced watches for the elite, the Soviet Union made watches for the common man. While anyone familiar with the international watch industry of the 1960s knows that US, UK, and Japanese firms were producing high-quality watches at an affordable price, the marketing plans for these firms did not counter the Soviet argument. Simply put: The West ceded this particular piece of strategic communications to the Soviets. Did it matter? Probably not. The collapse of the USSR was a catastrophe for most command economy industries. However, both RAKETA and VOSTOK survived and began to export to the West. The oddest aspect of these export efforts was the importance of nostalgia for the Cold War. Soviet paraphernalia began to show up in kiosks throughout Europe and both RAKETA and VOSTOK found European partners willing to invest in their robust yet extremely inexpensive watches. The War In Ukraine Long after the collapse of the USSR and the creation of the modern state of Ukraine, the country had a nascent watch industry in Kyiv founded in 1997 and focused on simple quartz and mechanical watches. None of these watches appeared on the market in the West and they certainly didn’t hold the status of popular VOSTOK models including the  Komandirskie and the Amphibia, both of which have cult followings among enthusiasts.  A KLEYNOD watch from the brand’s military-oriented “Forces” collection. However, following the full-scale Russian invasion of Ukrainian territory in 2022, the Ukrainian Kyiv watch company changed its name to KLEYNOD (Ukrainian for “treasure”) and began to impress a historic Ukrainian battle insignia on their watches. Their marketing tool was simple: The KLEYNOD watches symbolized the Ukrainian resistance to the Russian invasion. In a previous W.O.E. Dispatch, we showed President Zelensky giving KLEYNOD watches to front-line troops. At present, KLEYNOD offers over a dozen different military-related watches, clearly keeping the ongoing war effort in mind. Colonel Oleksandr “Grey Wolf” Oksanchenko, an early casualty of the War in Ukraine wearing a Ukrainian-made watch, Kleynod "Independence Insignia" edition. When Ukrainian Su-27 Flanker fighter pilot Colonel Oleksandr “Grey Wolf” Oksanchenko was killed on 25 February by a Russian S-400 missile during the Battle of Kyiv, he was posthumously awarded the Order of the Gold Star. Oksanchenko was a legendary Ukrainian pilot who retired in 2018 but like many Ukrainians returned to service to defend his nation. To celebrate this national hero and create unity, the Ukrainian government and press circulated pictures of the Grey Wolf, with a Kleynod "Independence Insignia" edition watch clearly visible on his wrist. The watch was developed on the 15th anniversary of Ukraine’s Independence. Russia, Putin, & Timepieces Similarly, Russia continues to tout its watch industry as a source of national pride. President Putin, known for his extensive watch collection including an 18k yellow gold Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Sohne, Blancpain, and IWC, is now seen regularly wearing a Russian made, Imperial Peterhof Factory (Raketa) watch. Putin and affiliated Donetsk People's Republic (DPR) officials similarly have presented Russian-made watches to forces as honorary gifts. Conclusion: In the West, we often see watches as timekeeping tools or status symbols. Certainly, both points are true around the world with world leaders wearing valuable timepieces. Cases in point include the new Danish King Frederik’s Omega Seamaster “Unit Watch” or Donald Trump’s many Rolex models. However, in the case of the USSR or today’s Russia and Ukraine, watches made locally serve as small but impactful propaganda tools that remind both the wearer and the observer alike that indigenous industries make reliable tools that are robust and meant to be used. Both countries export these timepieces to sustain their industries, but also to send a small message to the world: We are industrial powers. -- This piece was jointly written by W.O.E. and J.R. Seeger who served as a paratrooper in the 82nd Airborne and as a CIA officer for a total of 27 years of federal service. Seeger led multiple, small unit teams during his service, including leading one of the CIA teams that infiltrated Afghanistan after 9/11. This newsletter has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.  Read Next: Double Wristing Stormin' Norman

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Best Watches Under $5,000

Best Watches Under $5,000

Asking Watch Nerds & Experts from Special Operations, Intelligence, & NatSec For Their Picks We’ve often argued the best place to start with watch collecting...

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Asking Watch Nerds & Experts from Special Operations, Intelligence, & NatSec For Their Picks We’ve often argued the best place to start with watch collecting is under $1,000. With the rise of watch enthusiasm bolstered by the internet over the last couple of decades, there are more great options than ever to consider on the more attainable end of affairs, many of which we discussed in a previous “Ask The Experts” Under $1,000 Dispatch. We stand by our statements about starting with an affordable watch, but that doesn’t mean there won’t be a day when you’re interested in ascending to a more luxurious tier of watchmaking. Whether we like it or not, so-called “luxury” watches bring a lot to the table, more commonly offering in-house calibers, better finishing standards, and more premium materials while also tapping into the history and heritage behind some of horology’s most legendary names. As many of our Dispatch articles have illustrated, using a more expensive watch doesn’t have to impede upon the “Use Your Tools” ethos with numerous documented cases of individuals from the military and intelligence communities reaching for luxury watches in the performance of their missions and to honor their culture. For further guidance on where to look in the crowded $1,000 to $5,000 tier, we asked a handful of our friends from both the traditional watch media and NatSec communities for their choices. There are a few returning guests from our previous look at watches under $1,000 (read HERE) as well as some new blood. Despite the diversity of our experts, the one thing they all have in common is a shared love of timepieces. These watches are not inexpensive by any means, and the idea that not everyone can afford to play in this space isn’t something we take lightly. Tudor Pelagos FXD Black - $4,150 Jason Heaton (@jasonheaton) is an author, freelance writer, and co-host of the podcast, The Grey NATO. The field of “Use Your Tools” watches is a crowded one, but in my mind, the Pelagos FXD stands above the rest. Forged from the ethos of vaunted historic military divers from the houses of Rolex and Tudor, it is modernized through its use of titanium, ceramic, and, in the case of the movement’s escapement, silicon. Fixed strap bars aren’t for everybody, but their use on the FXD is delightfully uncompromising and will appeal to those who like to use their blunt instruments at the sharp end. CWC Mutineer ≈ $2,000 Chris Craighead (@christian_craighead) former British Special Air Service (SAS). Founder of The Ministry of Defence. To start, I have to apologize for the tease, but this article with W.O.E is too good an opportunity to miss mentioning my upcoming collaboration with my brand, Ministry of Defence, and CWC, a legendary British watchmaker known for supplying UKSF units since the 70s. Building upon an existing CWC case design, the Mutineer will offer a Swiss automatic movement and a few other subtle elements speaking directly to my experiences in the military. I used a number of different analog and digital watches during my service, but if I could have designed the perfect watch for my needs then, it would have looked something like this. The tentative release date is Fall 2024. Sinn U2 - $3,160 Dave Hall (@davehall1911) is a retired SEAL Senior Chief, Strategic Advisor, and President of the Silent Warrior Foundation. The Sinn U2 has been my daily wear and tool watch for over a decade and it is as at home in a pool or ocean as it is in a subterranean environment. I love the simple style and brute ruggedness of this watch. I use the dual time zone feature daily. The watch has many more useful features such as the comfortable four o’clock crown placement, an Argon-filled case, a water compromise indicator, a clasp expansion system to wear over rubber, hacking seconds, and a luminous blue bezel indicator which easily differentiates it from the greenish dial and hand colors in darkness. These features combined with the price point make it a tool watch worthy of consideration in the W.O.E. community. Sangin Hydra DLC - $1,999 Brock Stevens (@deepsea.edc) is an active-duty US Navy Diver and watch photographer. The Sangin Instruments Hydra is my first Sangin and definitely will not be my last. With a 43mm case, 49.5mm lug to lug, and a case thickness of 12.5mm, the Hydra wears great on my 7-inch wrist. The stand out here is the thinness of the case (while offering 300m of water resistance), which allows for a very comfortable, low-profile wearing experience. The Hydra is offered in both 12-hour and elapsed time bezel variants, and the case options include a DLC or beautifully brushed 316L stainless steel. As you can see, I chose the DLC diver’s version and never looked back. The Hydra immediately drew me in with its rugged, mid-century compressor design with that tool watch or tactical element that I love to see in my collection. The build quality and operation of the internal bezel are excellent for the price and stand up to larger Swiss and German brands. The dial is extremely legible and in low-light conditions, the lume is fantastic. With a name like “Hydra,” you would expect the watch to excel in an amphibious environment. However, it’s hard to know if you have a proper diver’s watch until you take it underwater. After testing the Hydra on-wrist on many dives, I am happy to report that it lives up to its name. Vertex M100A - $3,300 Darren (@zulualphastraps) is the owner Zulu Alpha Straps and a veteran of the British Royal Navy. The Vertex M100A is a must for every military watch enthusiast. Based on the Cal 59 which formed part of the original Dirty Dozen issued by the British Ministry of Defence in WW2. The M100A connects you to the story that brought us all into the fold, the origins of where watches and the military intersect. Tudor Black Bay GMT - $4,375 James Rupley (@jamesrupleyphoto) is a co-founder of small arms reference publishing companies, Vickers Guide and Headstamp Publishing, and a regular photographic contributor to W.O.E. A properly built GMT is a do-anything watch, and the OG 41mm Tudor Black Bay GMT with “Pepsi” bezel is my go-to timepiece. One of my pleasures when traveling is “jumping” the hour hand to the local time zone of my destination as I settle into the seat of my flight for departure. Its versatility is evidenced by the fact that I have worn it straight to the beach after landing, to formal business dinners, and to photo shoots hauling more Pelican cases than I have hands for across cobble-stoned European streets. Its satin-finished anodized aluminum red/blue bezel hits differently than the ceramic bezel inserts in use by Rolex today—part of the reason I consider it the spiritual successor to the iconic Rolex 16710 BLRO GMT Master II. I’ve got more miles under the belt of my Tudor Black Bay GMT than another other watch in my possession, and I have yet to see any contender capable of dethroning it of that title. Christopher Ward Twelve Ti - $1,895 Rob Huberty is a former SEAL and the COO and co-founder of ZeroEyes, an AI gun detection company. My first choice would be a Tudor Pelagos FXD, but others in the W.O.E. community chose it. Tudors are more rugged tool watches, and I am a washed-up Team Guy, so the Christopher Ward Twelve takes its place. Christopher Ward is starting to replace Seiko as my recommendation for the first “good” watch for enthusiasts. The Twelve is inspired by Gerald Genta’s (the most famous watch designer) integrated bracelet watches that cost 25 times more. (AP Royal Oak, Patek Phillipe Nautilus). The Twelve feels like it should cost much more, is COSC certified, and is watch nerd-approved. It comes with both a rubber strap and an awesome titanium bracelet that feels like an AP Royal Oak. The Twelve is less action and adventure than my Tudor, but it looks great when I am answering Slack messages, writing emails, or watching YouTube videos about watches. Bulgari Aluminum 40mm GMT - $3,700 Justin Hast (@justinhast) is a writer, producer, and watch lover. The Bulgari Aluminum 40mm GMT is criminally comfortable with a distinct vibe you either love or hate (the way great design should be). It was the watch of the Jet Set in the 90’s and even adorned the nose of an Alitalia. It’s a sub-$5k wild card for the curious. IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire - $4,900 Nic Barnes is an Australian military pilot & W.O.E. contributor. Given the industry’s relentless price increases over the past few years, finding a watch from a major luxury brand within this price range is now much more challenging than it would have been previously. That said, if I was given $5,000 to spend on a watch tomorrow, I’d go straight to this one. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire combines exceptional Swiss craftsmanship with rich aviation heritage and versatile style. The clean dial is incredibly legible, with a distinct military-inspired aesthetic that gives it a classic appearance reminiscent of IWC’s mid-20th century pilot’s watches. In terms of robust functionality, the 6-bar water resistance is sufficient for any aviation activity I’d be willing to undertake, while the movement has recently been upgraded to the 32111 Calibre, giving it an impressive 5-day power reserve. At 39mm, the Spitfire is subtle enough to avoid unwanted attention but strikes a rare balance of sophistication and practicality. CWC RN Automatic Divers Watch 'MK. 2' - $1,370 Henry Black (@onhenryswrist) is a WOE contributor and a writer for Fratello. He's passionate about the power of the hobby to forge friendships and a sense of community, as well as sharing stories about the hobby from across the globe. The CWC RN Automatic Divers combines actual military heritage, with the original watches being issued to Royal Navy divers in the early 1980s (and iterative versions also being issued to the UK's Special Boat Service members). The specifications are modern: Fixed spring bars and a rugged stainless steel case with 300m of water resistance and a flat sapphire crystal, inside is a trusty Sellita SW200-1. The CWC is a fantastic strap-on-and-go watch. CWC watches continue to see action with journalists reporting from the front lines of conflicts around the world. I wear mine in the ocean regularly, and the practical visibility and the quality of the luminescent material are good, too. For that reason alone, it is a solid choice for the W.O.E. community, and epitomizes the idea of "everything you might need, and nothing else." There are versions available in quartz, too. Doxa Sub 300T - $1,990 Sketchy Boyz Watch Club (@sketchyboyzwatchclub) is an online community of professional end-users sharing our takes on all things horological. A modern reinterpretation of the original 1968 Doxa 300T "Conquistador", the contemporary Sub 300T is a purpose-built tool packed with functionality and historical provenance. Historically used by military, scientific, and professional divers across the world, Doxa has earned its place on this list. Those who wear them certainly understand the meaning of "use your tools." One of the best parts about the Sub 300T is the wide array of colors and configurations available to users as well. While the enigmatic "Professional" model in Signal Orange is, dare I say, "Iconic", there are several variants that all have their own appeal and unique history behind them. It is because of all these reasons that the Sketchy Boyz Watch Club recommends the Doxa Sub 300T for this list. (And all the other ones we wanted to do were already taken). Tudor Pelagos FXD MN - $4,150 Asha Wagner (@wildlander6) is a Fire Captain, Hazardous Materials Specialist, & USAR Task Force team member. The FXD MN was the first watch in the FXD series and was built from the ground up to be a purpose-built tool watch. The watch has a bidirectional bezel, which goes against the ISO 6425 requirements but makes the watch more useful for its intended purpose as an underwater navigation tool. It is also the first watch in the Pelagos line to have a bezel that overhangs the case as well as having its namesake fixed lugs. The wider bezel makes the watch easier to operate, especially while wearing gloves. The fixed lugs ensure the watch will remain securely attached to my wrist no matter what I get up to (I’ve popped spring bars on a number of occasions and almost lost a few watches). The shade of blue Tudor picked for this watch looks great whether it’s paired with my work uniform or it’s worn while on a tropical vacation. For all the reasons mentioned above, the Tudor FXD is a pioneering purpose-built tool watch that’s hard to beat for under $5,000. Sinn T50 - $3,840 Nacho Conde (@nachoconde) is a writer, photographer, host of the Fratello Talks podcast, and the Head of Content/Managing Editor at Fratello. Few brands today take the creation of bona fide tool watches as seriously as Sinn. The Frankfurt-based brand prides itself on manufacturing some of the world's most overdesigned, overspecced, action-ready watches. The Sinn T50 is a pinnacle of the brand's efforts to create a perfect titanium dive watch with the brand's uniquely function-informed aesthetics. It's an uncompromising tool, obscenely legible, perfectly proportioned, and packed with special features such as its locking bezel, dehumidifying capsule, and hard-coated titanium case. For the price, it's damn near impossible to beat. The Sinn T50 is an unpretentious watch more than capable enough to take on anything you throw its way and look good doing it, whether it's daily life or the sketchiest of adventures. Tudor Black Bay Pro - $4,225 Soturi (@soturidesign) is a Marine veteran-owned business producing handmade watch straps inspired by military heritage. The Tudor Black Bay Pro is easily the best watch under $5,000 because it nails that perfect mix of vintage style and modern performance. With a 70-hour power reserve, you can leave it off for a couple of days and it’s still ticking strong. Its versatile design means it looks great whether you’re at the office or in the field. Plus, the build quality is top-notch, so you know it’s going to last. Tudor’s solid reputation in the watch world just seals the deal. Sinn T50 - $3,870 James Stacey (@jestacey) is the Lead Editor with Hodinkee, Co-Host of The Grey NATO Podcast, and a hopeless tool watch nerd. Given the $5000 limit meant that I couldn't pick my beloved Tudor Pelagos 39, the final choice was pretty easy for me as I'm a huge fan of the excellent Sinn T50. Essentially a titanium take on the already A+ Sinn U50, the T50 offers a 41mm grade 5 titanium case with a black dial and super-legible sword hands. Paired with either Sinn’s matching bracelet or the brand's recent addition of a two-piece nylon (or heck, one of W.O.E's excellent Five Eye nylon straps) it's a premium sport watch that looks the part and won't get you much in the way of unwanted attention if someone spots it on your wrist. Think of it like a modern Omega Seamaster 2254 but made of titanium and representing all of Sinn's skillset in crafting sporty, well-made, and entirely action-ready watches. Doxa Sub 1200T - $1,990 Benjamin Lowry (@submersiblewrist) is a member of the W.O.E. team, a former commercial diver, and a veteran of the United States Coast Guard. The predecessor to the modern Sub 300T that also made this list, I received my Doxa Sub 1200T as a gift from my wife when we got married in 2015. Heading to commercial diving school shortly thereafter, I decided I would wear the watch in all conditions above and below the water’s surface no matter the repercussions. Today, with a lot of dives under its bracelet, the old Doxa shows no shortage of wear and tear while feeling more like an old friend than any other watch in my collection. With 1200 meters of water resistance, an unused helium escape valve, and a chunky wearing experience, the Sub 1200T is way more capable than I ever was underwater while harkening back to the golden age of tool dive watches. The case back is also engraved with my anniversary so I don’t forget. Tudor Pelagos 39 - $4,700 Watches of Espionage is a former CIA Case Officer turned watch influencer. My pick-up-and-go watch is the Tudor Pelagos 39. While dubbed a smaller version of the 42mm Pelagos, in reality, this is more of a modernized titanium Tudor Submariner than a smaller Pelagos. Titanium is my favorite material for tool watches given its wearability which is, at 39mm, perfect. The bracelet is so comfortable I rarely wear straps with it and the micro adjustments make it comfortable during the summer months.  If the Black Bay 58 and FXD got together and had a baby, it would be the Pelagos 39. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.  Read Next: Advice for Buying a Watch

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Every Watch In Jack Carr’s Red Sky Mourning

Every Watch In Jack Carr’s Red Sky Mourning

Sketchy Breitlings, A Vietnam-Era Rolex, & More Making fun of Navy SEALs writing books is a joke that will never get old.  That said, there...

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Sketchy Breitlings, A Vietnam-Era Rolex, & More Making fun of Navy SEALs writing books is a joke that will never get old.  That said, there have been some great authors to come out of the Teams and Jack Carr is at the top of the list. Carr’s series of novels detailing the adventures of James Reece has become a massive hit, transcending the boundaries of our community to find broader mainstream success including a 2022 television adaptation starring Chris Pratt, The Terminal List. We have discussed watch culture in the SEAL Teams at length and Carr is also a watch enthusiast, with an extensive collection that includes a Rolex Sea-Dweller he wore while serving in the Teams as well as a Tudor Pelagos FXD Black, several Vietnam-era Seikos, an Ares, and more (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) One of the key aspects that makes Carr’s writing compelling is the author’s incredible attention to detail, always doing additional research to describe firearms, gear, and watches in depth. Throughout the series, James Reece, Carr’s protagonist, wears a vintage Rolex Submariner gifted to him by his father, a Vietnam-era SEAL turned CIA Case Officer. In the television adaptation, Reece—portrayed by Chris Pratt—wears several watches including an Oris Aquis Pro Date Calibre 400, Resco Instruments BlackFrog Gen2 Black PVD (an insider told us he wanted to wear a military watch in specific scenes), a G-Shock GA-100-1A1, and a period correct 5.11 Military Tactical Field Ops Watch. Chris Pratt wearing a Resco Instruments BlackFrog Gen2 Black PVD in the television adaptation of The Terminal List. (Photo Credit: Justin Lubin) Carr’s seventh book in the James Reece series, Red Sky Mourning, was released last month. When I read it, I was truly surprised by the number of specific watches mentioned in the text, with one even playing a pivotal role in the plot. I knew Carr was a watch enthusiast, but this new novel shows how far down the rabbit hole the SEAL-turned-author has fallen. If you haven’t checked out the book, be advised: This text contains some spoilers. Elba Industries Breitling Emergency In Red Sky Mourning, at least one watch with a special complication plays an integral role in the plot. Andrew Hart, the dastardly fictional head of the fictional Elba Industries, wears a sketchy Breitling Emergency complete with a co-signed dial featuring Elba’s logo, a golden bee, an homage to co-signed “unit watches” from Breitling including the Blackwater Breitling we have discussed in great detail. Given Carr’s history in the SEAL Teams and working with CIA, it would be reasonable to assume the author has seen a few of these watches in his day. Former Blackwater CEO Erik Prince wearing a Blackwater-signed Breitling Emergency. An analog digital timepiece from Breitling’s golden era producing “watches for professionals”, the Emergency contains an antenna that broadcasts a signal on the 121.5 MHz aircraft emergency frequency when activated. Commercial and military aircraft monitored the frequency and were able to alert search and rescue teams of an individual's location, anywhere in the world. At Red Sky Mourning’s climax, the signal from Hart’s Emergency is used to locate the ne'er-do-well and James Reece, an old-school Rolex guy through and through. Vintage Rolex Submariner A Rolex Submariner reference 5513 from the same era as the Sub worn by James Reece throughout the books. (Photo Credit: Wind Vintage) In the Terminal List series, James Reece is a former US Navy SEAL who has also worked extensively with the Agency. Reece’s father, Tom, was also a SEAL turned CIA Case Officer, having served in the Teams in Vietnam where he purchased the Submariner that also features prominently throughout the series on his son’s wrist. In Red Sky Mourning, James Reece’s Rolex is taken from him by the Chinese intelligence officer Ba Jin who also asks what year the Sub is from. Reece says, “It’s a ’68. You guys had just kicked off your Cultural Revolution a couple of years earlier. How many people did Mao kill in his efforts to purify the Party?” As you’d expect, Reece ends up getting the watch back in a way that does not work out well for Ba Jin. US Navy SEALs in Vietnam wearing Rolex or Tudor Submariners. Given the 1968 timeframe, the Submariner in question is most likely either a non-date chronometer certified 5512 or potentially the non-COSC 5513, both models that are closely associated with Vietnam-era SEALs. It’s also conceivable the watch is a date model 1680 that also offered the red Submariner text at the time that is so coveted by collectors today. While arguably this should have been an issued Tudor Submariner, a classic Rolex Submariner is the perfect choice for a legacy SEAL like Reece that also once again demonstrates the author’s attention to detail and love for horology. Rhodesian Army Roamer Anfibio W.O.E.’s personal Rhodesian Roamer (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In Red Sky Mourning, as he often does, Reece visits the Hastings family, home of his best friend Raife Hastings, a South African-born former SEAL teammate, and his father, Jonathan, who served with the Special Air Service (SAS) and later the famed Rhodesian Selous Scouts. Reaching extremely deep into the annals of military watch history, Carr equips Jonathan with a Roamer Anfibio, a seldom-discussed Swiss watch whose claim to fame is having been issued to the Rhodesian military back in the 1970s. Rhodesian issued Roamer on a leather military "Bund" strap worn by Colonel David “King” Parker, Commanding Officer of the Rhodesian Light Infantry (RLI). Col. Parker is wearing the Roamer, which was common according to pictures from the Bush War. Jonathan Hasting’s history with the Selous Scouts, a special forces component of the Rhodesian Army, makes this watch an excellent and historically accurate choice for Hastings who serves as something of an additional father figure to Reece. What led Roamer, a Swiss brand founded in 1888, to supply the Rhodesian military is one of watch history’s mysteries, but you can’t fault the quality of Carr’s homework. If you have been following this page, you know I've spent a lot of my life living, working, and traveling in Africa, a country with a large number of unique and lesser-known military watches. Interestingly, Hasting’s trajectory closely follows that of a real individual, someone who is not widely known outside of the Intelligence Community. Tianjin Seagull 1963 Chang Zheng is a Chinese Jin-Class Type 094 Submarine featuring  prominently in a cat-and-mouse game with the USS Reagan in the early pages of Red Sky Mourning. In describing her captain, Commander Zhen, Carr says mentions the, “…Tianjin Seagull 1963 watch on his wrist.”, a reference that serves as perhaps the second deepest watch cut in the book after the aforementioned Roamer Anfibio. Known to enthusiasts as simply the “Seagull 1963”, the Chinese-made manual-winding chronograph serves as perhaps the least expensive mechanical chronograph available today, with an ST19 caliber produced in China at Tianjin’s factory with tooling purchased from Switzerland back in the 1950s. A Chinese Jin-Class Type 094 Submarine like the Chang Zheng mentioned in Red Sky Mourning. Initially produced for Chinese Air Force pilots, the Seagull 1963 is an enthusiast-favorite watch because of its attainable price point—typically less than $500—in relation to its complication coupled with a surprisingly well-decorated movement. For a Chinese submarine commander, it also makes a lot of sense given the watch’s military history. Captaining a Chinese submarine likely involves direct inclusion in the communist party. For Commander Zhen to demonstrate his pride in the party by wearing a mechanical watch produced in his country feels dead-on accurate. Rolex Yacht-Master A second watch from the Crown mentioned in the text is the Rolex Yacht-Master, worn by Dr. Lawrence Miles, an avid sailor, former CIA contractor, and the billionaire founder of the Delphi Corporation. Reece goes to Miles’ home in Marin, California to learn more about the motivations behind the nefarious Andrew Hart. During their conversation, Miles describes a meeting he had with Hart and two other sketchy individuals, saying, “I remember they all wore the same watch—Breitling Emergencies. As a sailor you notice things like that,” he said, tapping the white gold Rolex Yacht-Master on his wrist and pointing to the stainless Submariner worn by his guest.” While white gold and platinum are the materials that come to mind first for the Yacht-Master, the new titanium version would also be an interesting pick for Miles’ character. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) Also describing his sailing history, the Yacht-Master is the perfect choice for the billionaire and passionate sailor who spends his days overlooking San Francisco Bay. Unlike many Rolex sport models, there is no full-steel Yacht-Master in the modern catalog, meaning you’re looking at either full-gold, some combination of steel and platinum or steel and gold, or the new titanium variant released earlier this year. Given Miles’ financial situation, we like to think we went full billionaire bling. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.) & Smartwatches In addition to the above-listed mechanical analog watches, Carr also mentions a Timex Ironman in the text, placing the legendary attainable digital watch on the wrist of retired US Army General and current CIA Director Marcus Howe. In the text, Carr writes, “Howe looked down at the Timex Ironman watch that had graced his wrist for most of his time in uniform…” With a thirty-year background in US Army Special Forces, the humble Ironman is an appropriate and pragmatic option for the Agency director. Adding another layer, the Timex Ironman was commonly issued to CIA Paramilitary Officers as well as partner forces including Afghan units. While less key to the plot, smartwatches are also mentioned several times in the text, usually in discussions regarding their vulnerability. We’ve detailed the role and counterintelligence vulnerabilities of the smartwatch in modern espionage, and we appreciate Carr for bringing this element of modern watch culture into the book. Read more about “CIA Officers and Apple Watches” HERE. More than many thriller writers from outside the community, Carr manages to capture both the essential essence and concrete details of life within intelligence and special operations. Viewed from any number of angles and by various enthusiast communities for knives, firearms, tactical equipment, and watches, Carr packs the James Reece sagas with layer upon layer of references and Easter eggs that some will grasp and some won’t, but that’s the fun of it. We often make fun of SEALs, most of whom are authors, and will continue to do so. But Jack Carr has done it the right way, avoiding repetitively rehashing his own GWOT adventures in favor of the larger-than-life story of James Reece that is bolstered by Carr’s personal experience in the field of special operations and espionage. For watch enthusiasts, this level of attention to detail and historical accuracy is the good stuff and only adds another level of intrigue to Carr’s work. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.  Read Next: SOG Seikos - Vietnam MACV-SOG Watches, Part II     Featured Image Credits: Breitling Emergency (Photo Credit: Lunar Oyster), Rolex Submariner 5513 (Photo Credit: Wind Vintage), Roamer Anfibio (Photo Credit: James Rupley)

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US Secret Service Omega Seamaster During Trump's Assassination Attempt

US Secret Service Omega Seamaster During Trump's Assassination Attempt

A Special Unit-Specific Version Of An Iconic Watch Designed For The US Secret Service This past Saturday, a series of gunshots was heard around the...

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A Special Unit-Specific Version Of An Iconic Watch Designed For The US Secret Service This past Saturday, a series of gunshots was heard around the world. Former US President Donald Trump was speaking at a rally in Pennsylvania in support of his upcoming presidential bid when suddenly, he flinched and reached for his right ear as shots rang out. In seconds, the former president’s US Secret Service protective detail took him to the ground, shielding Trump with their bodies as a USSS Counter Sniper Team engaged and killed Thomas Matthew Crooks. As Secret Service agents rushed Trump offstage, a member of his detail was photographed wearing a special unit-specific version of the Omega Seamaster, another example of a member of our community wearing a serious watch in the line of fire. The USSS Omega Seamaster Diver 300 “Unit Watch” on the wrist of an agent on Trump’s protective detail. (Photo Credit: Anna Moneymaker/Getty Images) As a disclaimer, our interest in the watch in no way diminishes the severity of the incident, the injured, or the tragic loss of firefighter Corey Comperatore. The Omega is relatively insignificant here, but timepieces are our prism to view history and current events. By any measurement, this assassination attempt was a security failure and will be investigated. Much of what transpired remains unclear and disinformation and misinformation are rampant. We will not opine on what we think happened and will wait for the details to come to light.  Regardless of the failures this past weekend, the Secret Service is an honorable profession with ranks filled with true professionals. Secret Service Agents are in harm’s way on a daily basis, regularly putting their lives on the line to protect the office of the President and those running for it. It is a zero-fail mission. The good guys have to get it right every single day, the bad guys only have to get it right once.   This article will likely be interpreted by some as political, but to be clear, it is not. On Saturday, July 13th, a timepiece—a special version of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300 designed for the US Secret Service—found itself at the center of a history-making event. We are here to talk about that watch. Omega Seamaster Diver 300 US Secret Service Unit Watch A community submission showing a USSS Omega Seamaster “Unit Watch”. In late 2023, US Secret Service Agents representing multiple field offices and units began taking delivery of a customized version of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300, a model family more closely associated with James Bond. Serving as the primary unit watch within Omega’s catalog, the Secret Service Seamaster differs from the standard version with a no-date format, beige luminescent material, and matte finishing throughout the case and bracelet. On the case back, the Secret Service star is engraved along with “Worthy of Trust and Confidence.” On the bottom of the case, agents can have their commission book number or something else unique to them printed in subtle text. While watches like this are sometimes purchased from a commemorative point of view, many are used as tools, with the pictured Special Agent in Trump’s protective detail providing further evidence. Importantly, this reference is available only to military and law enforcement units, including the US Navy SEALs, Danish Frogman Corps (Frømandskorpset), and other American and European units. Other individuals within the Secret Service including the Counter Assault Team (CAT aka HAWKEYE), which was also present during the assassination attempt, have also purchased the Omega. Of note, other USSS units have special versions of the Tudor LHD Pelagos and certain Breitling references. As is often the case in our community, the US Secret Service has a thriving watch culture. Again, the watch in question does not represent the most important aspect of the events that transpired over the weekend, instead serving as yet another example of how watches are utilized as tools in the daily lives of professionals in the military, intelligence, NatSec, and federal service communities. Thoughts and prayers for all involved in the events over the weekend. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: U.S. Presidents and Timepieces, The Last 40 Years

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The Murky World Of Counterfeit Rolex

The Murky World Of Counterfeit Rolex

Fake Watch Shopping In Istanbul -  A Case Study As a CIA Case Officer operating overseas, you are exposed to the dark side of humanity....

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Fake Watch Shopping In Istanbul -  A Case Study As a CIA Case Officer operating overseas, you are exposed to the dark side of humanity. It is not a career for the faint-hearted and you learn some things they don’t teach in school. He who fights monsters should see to it that in the process he does not become a monster. And if you gaze long enough into an abyss, the abyss will gaze back into you. – Friedrich Nietzsche While the quote is dramatic, there is some merit to it. I didn’t fully realize how abnormal life at CIA was until I separated from the Agency. A byproduct of a career at CIA is a fascination with illicit activity; arms dealers, wildlife trafficking, organized crime, and, now that I am an aspiring watch nerd, counterfeit watches. Fake Watches - A Real-World Case Study Most articles on fake, or “replica” watches cover topics like “How to spot fake Rolex?”, “How much does a fake Rolex cost?”, or “Where to buy a fake Rolex?” These are all interesting topics, but we wanted to go deeper into the counterfeit luxury watch industry.  To do this, I went counterfeit watch shopping in Istanbul, Turkey. There’s nothing like first-hand experience. Counterfeit timepieces are a multi-billion-dollar industry, with shaky estimates indicating between 30 and 50 million fake watches entering the market each year. Contrast that figure with Rolex’s estimated annual production of approximately 1 million pieces per annum; It is reasonable to conclude that there are probably more fake Rolex watches on wrists than there are genuine examples throughout the world. This means that when you see someone wearing a Rolex, statistically speaking, it’s probably fake – a crazy thought. Istanbul - A Counterfeit Watch Mecca During a recent trip to Istanbul, I had a mission: to acquire a “super clone,” or ”superfake” a watch that is nearly indistinguishable from a real thing. Not only are cosmetic traits like the miniature laser-etched Rolex crown on the crystal present but if you take the watch apart, the movement itself is branded Rolex. Even for experienced watchmakers, some of these “super clones” are, all the way down to the movement components, virtually indistinguishable from genuine Rolex. There are differences, of course, but these “super clones” are astonishingly close to the genuine product to the untrained eye. I wanted to see for myself. Rolex crown laser-etched into the crystal, introduced in 2001 to deter counterfeiters. (Photo Credit: Bob’s Watches) Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul's Grand Bazaar is a covered market with over 4,000 shops selling everything from Turkish sweets to clothes and yes, of course, a large selection of counterfeit goods. Entering through the Nuruosmaniye Mosque gate, visitors are overwhelmed with a plethora of shops specifically targeting tourists. The presence of fake watches is immediately apparent and, in contrast to many markets around the world, completely in the open. The watch shopping experience varies depending on the shop but on the higher end is almost like a boutique experience, the only difference being the watches are fake and you can actually buy a “Rolex” rather than be put on a waiting list. They offer tea and coffee, a chair for your bored spouse to sit in, and customer service that exceeds the boutique experience presented by many luxury watchmakers. Interestingly, pictures are generally not discouraged and the sellers are relatively open about the sale of fakes. It isn’t just Rolex, either. Panerai, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and even counterfeit sketchy Breitlings are readily available, with starting (negotiable) prices of around $450. Most of the watches utilize Miyota movements and are, as you might expect, made in China. Pretty much any reference you can imagine is available including the Le Mans Daytona and Titanium Yachtmaster. 2024 Watches and Wonders releases? No worries, they should be available soon. What Is A “Fake” Rolex?  It is important to understand what a fake Rolex is. We have identified three categories of counterfeit Rolex watches to be aware of. Cheap Or Tourist Fakes: These cost somewhere between $50 and $300 and are generally picked up from street vendors in major tourist cities in Europe, South America, the Middle East, and even New York. You used to be able to spot them by their quartz movements which caused the second hand to “tick” instead of sweep, but now they tend to have automatic movements, more accurate details, and better finishing. But, in general, they are still sloppy fakes and you are not fooling anyone who owns a Rolex with this piece unless you are in a dark room. Super Clone or One For One: So-called replica watches, nearly identical to the genuine thing. They can cost over a thousand dollars and rumor has it that even when taken apart, it can be difficult to tell if the watch is genuine or a reproduction. In theory, one could wear a super clone to the local RedBar watch nerd meetup and fool everyone in the room. It’s been rumored that these have even been unknowingly sold by legitimate dealers as well, proving that the only way to know something is real is to buy it from the boutique. Frankenwatches:  A catch-all term used to describe watches that may be made up of parts that have been switched out and/or a real watch with fake parts (replaced bezel, dial, hands, etc…). Some are honest efforts to restore a watch, but more sinister versions are meant to fool prospective buyers. A recent notable example was the “Tropical” Omega Speedmaster Ref. 2915-1 ‘Broad Arrow’ auctioned by Phillips for over $3.4 million. As documented by popular watch blogger Perezcope, the watch itself was a frankenwatch, allegedly cobbled together by insiders with access to the Omega archives.   Tropical” Omega Speedmaster Ref. 2915-1 ‘Broad Arrow’ frankenwatch, sold Phillips for over $3.4 million (Photo Credit: Phillips) Why Are Fake Watches A Problem? At a minimum, fake watches are textbook examples of intellectual property (IP) theft, using the designs and logos that Swiss brands spent millions of dollars developing over decades. Some go as far as to link the sale of counterfeit watches to child labor, sweatshops, and even terrorism, human trafficking, and organized crime. While direct evidence of this is scarce, it is reasonable to assume that a link exists to some extent. That said, the vast majority of the counterfeit industry originates in China and it appears as though the Chinese government at least tacitly supports it and probably has some oversight and regulation. Are Fakes Substitutes For The Real Thing? According to Business Insider, 23.3 million counterfeit watches are circling the US, more than Rolex has sold worldwide in the past 15 years. The logical conclusion is that this hurts Rolex’s bottom line. But are fakes reasonable substitutes? Is Rolex losing potential customers to fake watches? Probably not. The fact is, the type of person that will buy and wear a fake, likely can’t afford the real thing. In other cases, some may buy a fake now and then the real thing as their financial circumstances change. UFC fighter Conor McGregor recently revealed during a GQ Sports interview that he used to wear fake watches to press conferences before he could afford a genuine Rolex. He is now a legitimate customer, owning millions of dollars in Rolex, AP, and Patek. One could argue that in McGregor’s case, the fake Rolex watches served as the “top of the funnel” for Swiss brands. Conor McGregor Wearing a (real?) Rolex Daytona “Eye of the Tiger” Should I Buy A Fake Rolex? We can think of very few legitimate reasons to purchase a fake Rolex, and yes, doing so does ultimately fuel the already insatiable market for these timepieces and potentially provide funding for organized crime syndicates. Further, in some places, it’s illegal to buy and transport fake watches. Our advice is simple, buy the (real) and best watch you can afford. There are plenty of great and legitimate watches on the market that cost less than your iPhone. Real Rolex Sub (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In response to “Trading A Rolex To Get Out Of A Sticky Situation - Myth Or Reality?”, many commenters suggested traveling with a fake Rolex for bartering. The logic may be sound, but if you are really at the point where you have decided to part with a watch worth thousands of dollars, your life is likely on the line and the cost is trivial. Further, whoever you are giving the watch to is presumably in a position of power and likely someone you do not want to piss off should they determine the watch is fake. The potential for this plan to backfire is simply too high. Le Mans Daytona and “Titanium” Yachtmaster - all fakes I have heard of some people with expensive watch collections that have “dummy” displays in their house, the idea being that if someone breaks in to steal their collection, they would take the fake watches without realizing the real collection is hidden in a safe. This is something that could potentially make sense but is not a practice I would advise. If someone goes the distance to specifically target you for your watch collection, they are likely going to be pissed to find out they stole fake watches and may come back for retribution. No watch is worth your life. All that said, I do have a fake Rolex Submariner that I received as a gag gift from a wealthy friend in Dubai. I have never worn it or even taken out the links to make it fit. Who knows, maybe it will come in handy one day. A real Rolex Daytona (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Should I Be Worried About Fake Watches? By some estimates 20-50% of art in museums is fake and even the largest auction houses with significant resources have been duped with fake watches. While the risk of unwittingly buying a modern watch that is fake is real, this is particularly real in the vintage market, where replacement parts and refinishing jobs can result in a “real” watch becoming a frankenwatch. As an individual buyer, you should not be responsible for identifying a fake.  The safest thing to do is to either buy new watches or build a relationship with a seller you not only trust but trust their expertise. The latter is difficult as it can be incredibly difficult to determine which parts are genuine and which are replacements.   Back In Istanbul Despite my best efforts, I was not able to track down a “super clone” in the Grand Bazaar. Many of the vendors claimed to have better quality watches and vigorously sent Whatsapp messages to their colleagues to bring one by, but they never appeared. The fakes in the souk were mediocre at best with loose bezels and crude finishing and claimed Miyota movements. Fun party gags? Maybe, but I didn’t buy one. W.O.E.’s personal fake watch, acquired in Dubai. I did pick up a set of (fake) boxes, papers, and a blank Rolex warranty card to match my gifted counterfeit Rolex. Similar to the watches themselves, the box was crudely crafted and isn't fooling anyone. While I do not advocate for anyone to purchase anything illicit, I did it in the name of science. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The W.O.E. Tudor PVD Pelagos FXD

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Custom G-Shock, Omega, & Tudor - Watches Fit To Guard A King

Custom G-Shock, Omega, & Tudor - Watches Fit To Guard A King

Unit Watches Of The UK’s Royalty and Specialist Protection Despite the rise of inexpensive Digital Tool Watches and feature-rich connected smartwatches, there is an ever-growing...

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Unit Watches Of The UK’s Royalty and Specialist Protection Despite the rise of inexpensive Digital Tool Watches and feature-rich connected smartwatches, there is an ever-growing subset of the military, intelligence, and law enforcement communities with a passion for mechanical or otherwise more interesting timepieces. We’ve discussed so-called “unit watches” in detail many times. However, in this Dispatch, we’ll take a closer look at unit watches from the world of law enforcement, specifically the UK’s Royalty and Specialist Protection (RaSP), an intriguing unit from within the Metropolitan Police’s Specialist Operations directorate. To date, there are three known unit watches from RaSP, a Casio G-Shock from the attainable tier as well as a Tudor and Omega from the world of Swiss luxury, all of which see active service as tools in the performance of the unit’s unique role. Protecting Royals, Politicians, & A Castle Or Two Officers stand guard outside Windsor Castle. (Photo Credit: Maureen McLean) Similar to the role played by the US Secret Service, who are also no strangers to unit watches, RaSP provides close protection services to the UK royal family including the king, the prime minister, various other politicians, ambassadors, and visiting heads of state. In addition, the unit also serves as specially trained armed security for royal residences including palaces in London, Windsor Castle, and other sites in Scotland. Unlike the United States, which has not been ruled by anyone wearing a crown since a kerfuffle ending in 1783, the average police officer in Great Britain doesn’t carry a firearm, making the armed and highly trained RaSP a higher level of protection and response in the event of terrorist attacks or assassination attempts on the Royal Family. Hired from the ranks of experienced frontline police officers as opposed to “off the street”, RaSP officers have been called into action on several prominent occasions. Royal Protection Officers tackle an attacker after an assassination attempt on then-Prince Charles (standing far right) in Sydney in 1994. (Photo Credit: Express UK) Far from idle threats, Royalty Protection Officers engaged in a dramatic shootout during an attempted kidnapping of Princess Anne in 1974 as well as when then-Prince Charles was attacked during a speech in 1994. In recent years, the Duke of Sussex (Netflix calls him Prince Harry) made headlines when he fought to continue his RaSP protection detail even after leaving his royal role and moving to California in 2020. In close protection scenarios, RaSP officers typically wear a suit with a concealed firearm, radio, and less-than-lethal weapons in certain instances. In contrast, officers don a more traditional uniform when providing overt armed protective security at royal residences. This operational duality is reflected in the unit’s choices for customized timepieces. A Custom Full-Metal G-Shock For Royalty Protection Officers The RaSP’s customized GM-B2100BD-1A. (Photo Credit: G-Central) The impetus for this article stems from G-Central, a leader in G-Shock news and information. A few weeks back, we noticed a post covering a unit-specific version of the GM-B2100BD-1A, a full-metal variant of the so-called “CasiOak” that debuted back in 2019. With an analog-digital display and an IP-coated black stainless steel case and bracelet, the RaSP unit variant was spotted on uniformed officers outside Windsor Castle and included a custom United Kingdom flag integrating a Thin Blue Line motif on the clasp as well as a special XIV engraving on the bracelet. The XIV references the SO14, the former name of the Royalty Protection Department that merged with SO1 or Specialist Protection to become the modern RaSP in 2015. On the case back, the watch offered an engraved image of Windsor Castle. Judging by the wear across the case and bracelet on the watches spotted by G-Central, the Royalty Protection Officers use these tools in performing their duties, with the G-Shock serving as an excellent pairing with the more utilitarian uniform worn by the unit in this instance. While we always hear about G-Shock in military and law enforcement scenarios, customized unit versions are rare and in this case, pretty cool. A custom caseback and clasp engraving for the RaSP G-Shock. (Photo Credit: G-Central) Rather than an officially sanctioned unit watch, these G-Shock models appear to have been a smaller unofficial unit purchase only for members of Windsor Castle’s protective detail. With that in mind, the G-Shocks do not expressly display “RaSP”, instead using XIV as a reference to the unit’s history. For more refined scenarios including providing close protection for royals during public events, RaSP also has a couple of interesting official watches from more luxurious brands in its stable. Omega Planet Ocean For Royalty Protection Officers Known for recently providing customized versions of the Seamaster Diver 300 to US Navy SEALs, Danish Frogmen, and the US Secret Service, Omega also produced a very rare unit version of its Seamaster Planet Ocean for RaSP, designing the piece with input from the unit in 2018 with delivery of approximately 60 units taking place in 2020. From the front, the watch looks identical to civilian market versions. On the case sides, the watches are engraved with the officer’s initials, warrant number, and watch issue number, marking the only time we’ve seen engravings on the case side of a unit-customized Omega. In addition, the sapphire exhibition case back is emblazoned with a two-part emblem consisting of a crown representing the royalty side of the branch as well as a portcullis signifying the specialist side tasked with protecting government ministers and other dignitaries. In addition, the caseback's outer perimeter references the previous unit designations used by those departments that merged to eventually become RaSP. SO14 and SO1 we've already touched on, which were in existence until 2015, however SO12(A) was an earlier forerunner on the ministerial side. The Shield Protects The Crown (Photo Credit: Bob’s Watches) The phenomenon of Tudors of Espionage (T.O.E.) is nothing new, with the shield having provided special unit versions of many of its core models to various military and governmental organizations. Around 2017 or 2018, the unit commissioned 75 Tudor Black Bay Blue for current and former members of the unit through Watches of Switzerland. A Tudor rose with a crown on top is on the dial, representing an intriguing mashup between Tudor the watch brand’s rose logo—seen on the crown on this reference—and the traditional heraldic rose that often serves as an emblem of England. The case back is engraved with “ROYALTY & SPECIALIST PROTECTION”, an individual's identification number, and serialized one through 75. Photo Credit: Bob’s Watches (Left) & Ross Povey (Right) Like other special watches commissioned for military or government units, several of these RaSP Tudor Black Bay have made their way into private civilian hands by way of prominent auction houses and aftermarket resellers asking for prices as high as $30,000. One special example produced for Queen Elizabeth II’s Platinum Jubilee in 2022 hammered for a staggering CHF 81,900, about $91k in today’s US dollars. These very public sales—one of which occurred around the time of The Queen's funeral—resulted in a change of policy from the department's senior leadership sometime in 2023, and there have been no newly developed official RaSP unit watches since. That’s why the above-mentioned G-Shock was produced on a smaller team-specific scale without RaSP markings. While we are not here to condemn unit members looking to turn a profit on personalized watches they likely never imagined would attain such value, we prefer to see these in the hands of the operators themselves, carrying forward the Use Your Tools ethos. Dual Purpose Tools While we typically concentrate on unit watches related to the military and intelligence community, there is clearly a significant community of watch enthusiasts in law enforcement and first responders. Unit watches like those produced for the UK’s Royalty Protection Officers serve a dual purpose role, acting as tools in the performance of their daily missions while also serving as keepsakes honoring their service both during and after the fact. Seeing such a wide swath of watchmaking within the Royalty Protection community, from a $500 G-Shock to luxury models from Omega and Tudor, further solidifies that our community is oriented around the capabilities and intrigue of the tool rather than flex culture. If you have other interesting unit watches to share, you know where to find us. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: U.S. Presidents and Timepieces, The Last 40 Years

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Which Watch Would James Bond Really Wear?

Which Watch Would James Bond Really Wear?

Picking More Reasonable Timepieces For History's Most Famous Secret Agent When it comes to Watches of Espionage, James Bond is the elephant in the room....

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Picking More Reasonable Timepieces For History's Most Famous Secret Agent When it comes to Watches of Espionage, James Bond is the elephant in the room. While there is a significant gap between real-world intelligence operations and Hollywood's depiction, Ian Fleming’s character has had an indelible impact on our community’s watch culture. We know several real “spies” who purchased an Omega or Rolex because of the Bond connection. Even before the legendary films, 007 was already closely linked to the world of horology. Fleming, the legendary author behind Bond, even went so far as to name names, calling out a “Rolex Oyster Perpetual” in his 1954 novel, Live and Let Die while unfortunately failing to identify a specific model. Likely inspired by Fleming’s reference 1016 Explorer, many regard the James Bond of the literary world as an Explorer man as well. However, 1962’s Dr. No, the secret agent’s first foray into film, would forever alter Bond’s history with Rolex, with Sean Connery serving up a full-screen wrist shot of a Submariner reference 6538. Beyond a few abbreviated sojourns into other brands including Breitling, Seiko, and Hamilton, the Bond of film was primarily a Rolex guy until 1995’s GoldenEye where Irish actor Pierce Brosnan famously wore an Omega Seamaster Professional, a seismic shift for watch enthusiasts. In the Dispatch, we’ve argued for tradition in favor of The Crown in the past with an excellent counter-argument coming from Caleb Daniels in favor of Omega, which remains Bond’s chosen brand. It’s a fun debate, but what watch would a former British SpecOps turned “Secret Agent” really wear? Bond’s Rolex Submariner 6538 in Dr. No and the OMEGA Seamaster Professional in GoldenEye are both icons, but what if they’re not the right picks?  Taking a step back, there’s a good chance a real “secret agent" using their license to kill on MI6’s behalf wouldn’t wear a luxury watch at all. With the most up-to-date Rolex Submariner Date reference 126610 coming in at $10,250 (assuming you can get one) and Omega’s 007 Edition No Time To Die Seamaster priced right at ten grand US, the biggest issue here is probably cost taking into account Bond’s role as a civil servant. Add to that the ostentatious nature of these heavily-branded luxury watches for a guy who would probably prefer a low profile, and some other timepieces just might be better suited to Bond’s profession. In addition, we'd argue our Bond would also favor British watchmaking brands, with more great options than ever before coming from the UK. In this Dispatch, we’ll share our picks for which watch we think our more reasonable 007 would wear. CWC SBS Diver Issue Price: $750  Given Bond’s insurmountable Britishness, we would argue it makes sense to look at brands with strong ties to the Empire as well as the Ministry of Defense (MOD). The obvious choice is a brand with a strong following in the W.O.E. community, CWC or Cabot Watch Company, which was founded in 1972 for no reason other than supplying the MOD. For maritime specialist units including the Royal Marines and Special Boat Service, CWC has long supplied the SBS Diver Issue, a PVD-coated descendant of the original Royal Navy Diver’s watch that succeeded the Rolex Military Submariner in 1980. We know several former British SBS members who still have, and wear, their issued SBS, making this a logical watch for Bond. Robert 'Bob' Hawkins (1961-2023) was a legend in the Mine Warfare Clearance Diving community. Like Bond, Hawkins was a Commander in the Royal Navy and is seen here wearing the CWC SBS Diver Issue. With 300 meters of water resistance, the utility offered by day and date functions, and excellent legibility, the SBS Diver Issue is an excellent option for the modern British secret agent whether he’s doing some Thunderball-style diving combat or simply keeping a lower profile. Fixed lug bars mean Bond is stuck with pull-through straps, but for a secret agent who inspired a namesake nylon strap color scheme, it shouldn’t be a problem.  Vertex M100A Price: $2,625  For a more old-school look that also leans into the literary Bond who many argue wore a Rolex Explorer, we have the Vertex M100A. Dating back to 1912, Vertex is another brand closely associated with the Ministry of Defense, having produced watches for the British military as early as the First World War. Of the twelve manufacturers of the legendary “Dirty Dozen” watches produced for the Allied war effort in World War II, Vertex was the only British option, with the modern M100A calling back to that history with its core design while making room for more modern watchmaking standards and specifications. But what does James Bond have to do with a WWII field watch, you may ask? (Photo Credit: WatchGecko) Thunderball aside, the vast majority of Bond’s adventures both tactical and otherwise have taken place in the dry, and we might argue some of the key elements of a perfect Bond watch would be—even more than water resistance—legibility, durability, and the timeless style so often associated with Bond’s on-screen portrayals. Compared to something like the aforementioned blacked-out CWC, the Vertex would also be a lot easier to wear with a tux.  Elliot Brown Holton Professional Price: $541 Where the CWC SBS celebrates its history of issue to the Special Boat Service in both name and marketing, the Holton Professional from Elliot Brown takes a more subtle approach to its special operations associations. Founded in 2013, the founding principle of Elliot Brown’s collection is durability, with many of the watches finding favor within the British Military. Based in Poole, the elite Special Boat Service approached Elliot Brown in 2015 to help design a watch for the unit to issue. The result was the Holton Professional, a watch that has earned an NSN or Nato Stock Number making it available for official issue to military forces. Coming from another British brand, and with a quartz movement, hardened stainless steel bezel, and C3 Super-LumiNova, the Holton also presents a solid option for someone like Bond who is likely to be harder on his watches than most. For deep nerds, Bond has an entirely imagined special operations background, meaning Commander Bond may have either been issued the Holton Professional or purchased a special version as part of a smaller unit-specific order. Bremont S302 Price $4,200  Currently the subject of some well-deserved controversy regarding a recent rebranding effort, Bremont is still among our top picks for James Bond. Despite its foundations in aviation, Bremont also boasts an impressive array of diving-oriented watches under the Supermarine name. For a more luxurious option compared to some of the other watches we’ve highlighted, we select the S302 for Bond, a watch that combines 300 meters of water resistance with the useful addition of a GMT function. Where some of our choices thus far are more utilitarian and even tactical, Bremont manages to straddle the line, feeling just almost as at home with a suit from Savile Row as it does with a wetsuit, no mean feat. The S302’s GMT is particularly appropriate as well. As we discussed in our Dispatch unpacking Zulu Time, having a second timezone at a glance provides tremendous upside for an asset coordinating with a broader multi-agency effort. Besides, Bremont is one of the few companies that has actually made a unit watch for the British Secret Intelligence Service.  Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 Price: $1,095 Long scolded as a microbrand rehashing established designs, Christopher Ward has stepped up massively in recent years and is another brand with a strong following in the W.O.E. community, at an affordable price point. For a government employee like James Bond, the price of the C60 Trident Pro, one of Christopher Ward’s marquee dive watches, is fair. Add to that the watch’s solid water resistance and legible dial format and we have another under-the-radar pick for Bond. Adding an element of legitimacy, Christopher Ward has been quietly collaborating with numerous military units in recent years. Despite solid finishing for the price range, the Trident isn’t ostentatious and doesn’t advertise to prying eyes or invite further scrutiny. Bamford London GMT Price: $1,500  Better known for Bamford Watch Department’s watch customizations and collaborations with established watchmakers from the luxury tier, George Bamford also produces a more attainable line of wholly designed watches under the Bamford London moniker. Assuming our modern Bond was a man of more avant-garde styling who rubbed shoulders with Eton graduates, something like the Bamford London GMT could make a lot of sense.  Available in a wide array of dial colors, Bamford’s GMT is housed within a reasonable 40mm case complete with an internal rotating GMT bezel that obviates the risk of accidentally changing the secondary timezone on display. For the $1,500 asking price, Bond also gets an excellent bracelet, 100 meters of water resistance, as well as a sub-12mm case height that should work as well with a tuxedo as it would with a woolen commando sweater.  Arken Alterum Price: $750  A true microbrand at this stage, Arken presents a wild card choice for Bond. Housed within a scratch-resistant titanium case, the Alterum, the second watch from the brand, fuses GMT functionality with 200 meters of water resistance and a design format that is a lot further afield than many of our previous choices. Admittedly, the Alterum dial serves up a lot of information including the second time zone, managed by a GMT hand, as well as a date sub-register and an intriguing day/night indicator executed with a pair of apertures on the dial’s lower half. Despite the additional complexity, the overall effect is clean, subtle, and the kind of thing Bond could easily wear in virtually any environment without anyone asking too many questions.  Final Thoughts For the diehard Rolex and Omega James Bond fanboys, the picks in this Dispatch may be blasphemous. We invite you to submit your counterarguments in the comments. In any counterpoints, it's important to remember that for intelligence professionals like Bond, watches are, first and foremost, a tool. While there is a significant watch luxury watch culture in espionage, it’s not so hard to imagine a real-life James Bond might benefit from a watch that won’t get him mugged by some scooter-riding London street toughs. As for Bond's strap of choice, we'd argue 007 would do his best work with a Five Eye (FVEY). -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Does Rolex Make Mistakes? The Motley 8 - Error Batman Bezel

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Watches Worn By Pilots Of The D-Day Squadron

Watches Worn By Pilots Of The D-Day Squadron

Crossing The Atlantic In A DC-3 To Commemorate The 80th Anniversary Of Operation Overlord  Watches intended for pilots represent one of the most compelling categories...

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Crossing The Atlantic In A DC-3 To Commemorate The 80th Anniversary Of Operation Overlord  Watches intended for pilots represent one of the most compelling categories in the arena of tool watches, only matched in enthusiast appeal by watches designed for diving. Pilots are, for lack of a better term, cool. And in the realm of flying, it’s difficult to imagine a cooler undertaking than piloting 1940s aircraft over the Atlantic to commemorate the 80th anniversary of D-Day. This is the mission of the D-Day Squadron, an intrepid group of enthusiasts, crew, and commercial and general aviation pilots tasked with flying vintage Douglas C-47s and DC-3s back to Normandy where they changed the course of history eight decades ago. As we have often described, pilots have a close relationship with timepieces, and in this Dispatch we’ll take a closer look at the watches these pilots wore while hand-wheeling 80-year-old aircraft across the Atlantic, battling arctic cold with no autopilot and only marginal heating systems. Despite the desperate need for sponsorship dollars to keep these vintage aircraft in operational condition, no watch brand jumped at the opportunity in this case, meaning the watches were a direct result of the preferences, personal choices, and stories of the pilots. As a professional photographer and amateur watch enthusiast, I was honored by the opportunity to ride along and document the journey, the watches, and more importantly, the stories behind them.  To the readers of W.O.E., it may not come as a surprise that the most common brand on the wrists of these pilots was Breitling. No matter how you slice it, flying 80-plus-year-old radial-engined airplanes across the Atlantic is sketchy—the good kind of sketchy. That said, smartwatches were also a common sight, and many pilots had opted not to wear a watch at all, but we’re not here to talk about them.  Breitling Emergency One of the pilots on C-47 Placid Lassie wore an orange-dialed Breitling Emergency with the brand’s Co-Pilot module, essentially a miniature digital watch integrated into the bracelet and capable of tracking UTC and flight time while also providing another chronograph. Pilots love redundancies. Frequently flying older aircraft, the pilot appreciated the utility of the Emergency, knowing that, as long as he could activate the watch’s signal in the event of a crash, his body would be found and returned to his family. His Emergency was one of the first sold in the US, something the pilot was proud of, representing his 20-year connection to Breitling that all started with a B1.  Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer The youngest pilot on the crossing was flying with his father, the D-Day Squadron chief pilot. The son wore a newly acquired watch, a Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer he picked up because he was tired of changing the batteries on his former quartz Timex. After initially deciding against what was for him an expensive mechanical watch, the young pilot ultimately decided to pull the trigger to commemorate a series of events: getting his type rating as a C-47 co-pilot, his first solo flight in a Twin Beach, and of course, the transatlantic crossing side-by-side with his father for D-Day 80. Omega Speedmaster Another pilot onboard D-Day veteran Placid Lassie was wearing an Omega Speedmaster he plans to give to his son one day. After losing a watch in the gym, he spent an entire year deciding which watch to get as a replacement. When his son was born, he decided it was time for something significant: “I like to buy one nice thing and keep that.” Influenced by the Speedy’s history in rally racing, the watch’s celebrated role in the Apollo missions, and its broader significance in aviation, he selected the Omega Speedmaster, purchasing a brand new example with the goal of adding his own patina over the years before gifting the watch to his son. The veteran pilot said he wears the watch for literally everything he does, including all of his travels, flying airplanes old and new (Douglas C-47s, Boeing 737s, and the North American T-6, a WWII Trainer), swimming in the ocean, sailing, and more. With only one service to date, he said the watch gets excellent marks for reliability. Before parting, he mentioned, “I’d love to have a Rolex, but I don’t know if it is for me.” Timex Expedition Chronograph  The loadmaster for C-47 Placid Lassie wore a simple Timex Chronograph. He admitted to not knowing too much about watches but picked this one because of its military look and the way the olive-drab color scheme matched the aircraft he helps care for.  Breitling Aviator 8 Curtiss Warhawk P-40 & Other Assorted Breitling Models  Purchased only three weeks before the crossing, the Douglas A-26 Invader Million Airess was late to the party, bringing with it the highest concentration of interesting watches I experienced during the trip. An owner of many luxury watches, he chose his most meaningful for the flight, a serial number 3 Breitling Aviator 8 Curtiss Warhawk P-40 that was also the first example sold in the United States. The watch commemorated a friend, the late Ollie Crawford who flew Curtiss P-40s during the war. A longtime friend of the brand, Crawford, who passed in 2019, was prominently featured in Breitling marketing over the years.  The pilot and owner described himself as a bit of a Breitling fan, even going as far as securing watches for the entire crew to wear for the historic flight including a modern Avenger, a Colt Skyracer, and two iterations of the Emergency. As previously mentioned, the Emergency models take on an even more significant role on a transatlantic flight done the old-school way.  Vaer C5 Tactical Field Solar  When asked about his all-black field watch, a Spirit of Douglas co-pilot said he simply wanted a dependable watch requiring no maintenance, eventually selecting an inexpensive solar-charging Vaer C5 for the crossing. After some prying, he also shared the story of his most meaningful watch, a 1975 Omega Speedmaster gifted to him by his grandfather after completing flight training. Remaining the source of great meaning many years later, the old Speedy served as a sign of approval after his grandfather initially criticized his decision to become a pilot. For fear of damaging such a significant family heirloom, he elected not to bring the Speedmaster along for the transatlantic journey.  Breitling Navitimer  One of the watches most concretely linked to aviation, it was no surprise to see a Breitling Navitimer on the wrist of one of the pilots of the UK-based C-47 Drag-em-oot. Also the owner of one of the Navitimers that went around the world onboard a DC-3 for a publicity stunt some years back, this is one he typically wears, making it the watch on his wrist for this historic event.  Praesidus C-47 D-Day  Another watch story from the trip that is worth telling but unrelated to the aircraft crossing is that of the Praesidus C-47 D-Day, a field watch with a dial made from the doors of a vintage C-47 present on D-Day. The watches were gifted to D-Day veterans present for the 80th-anniversary ceremony. The veterans seemed to appreciate them. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: Covert Influence in Watch Media About the Author: René is an aviation photographer and writer from Germany focusing on vintage aircraft and warbirds. He has followed the W.O.E. blog from the very beginning with a keen interest in tool watches. All photos are credited to @romeolimaphoto. 

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An Overview Of The Watches Of Espionage Strap Collection

An Overview Of The Watches Of Espionage Strap Collection

Materials, History, Fit, & Which Strap Is Right For You One of the most common ways for members of our community to customize their watches...

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Materials, History, Fit, & Which Strap Is Right For You One of the most common ways for members of our community to customize their watches is with a new strap that is, in either material or design, more appropriate for austere conditions. Over the past couple of years, we have grown our strap collection to include more refined options made from domestically sourced leather and more attainable choices designed to excel in the most extreme scenarios. We are often asked what is the best strap for a given use case, and in this Dispatch, we’ll provide an overview of our strap collection including some pros and cons, historical and design background, and recommendations based on some of the questions we are most commonly asked. As always, everything we make is developed for the quiet professional, someone who appreciates the history of Intelligence and Special Operations and honors those who came before us. W.O.E. Fabric Straps Closely associated with military watches, pull-through fabric watch straps trace their origins to the mid-century when they were utilized by American and British armed forces, with the most popular format tracing dating back to 1973 and a British Military design known as the G10. Commonly issued to the British Ministry of Defense, the G10 also cemented the formula for the majority of nylon watch straps to follow. In starting our collection of fabric watch straps, we partnered with veteran-owned and UK-based Zulu Alpha Straps to create the most premium fabric straps possible which are also manufactured in Great Britain. Then, to provide a more attainable alternative that also conforms to the obsessive quality standards of our community, we designed the Five Eye nylon strap that we believe is the best on the market for the price. Five Eye Nylon Watch Strap - $35-38 Named after the intelligence-sharing alliance of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, the United Kingdom, and the United States, the Five Eye (FVEY) Nylon Watch Strap is our modern take on the iconic British Military G10 design from 1973. This collection is more attainable compared to our Zulu Alpha collaborations while still providing a premium wearing experience and unrivaled durability for a watch of this style. The Five Eye is built from a custom matte woven material with a reinforced stitched tip and is complete with our custom stainless steel hardware. We didn’t reinvent the wheel but did take the original design to the next level with modern materials, manufacturing standards, and colors tailored to the unique needs of our community. To suit a wider variety of watches, we offer solid colors, striped variants, and Five Eye straps with black-coated PVD hardware, all in 20 and 22-mm sizes that will fit wrists from 6.25 to 9 IN (15.9 to 22.9 CM). Of note, like all “affordable” nylon straps, these are produced in Asia. Cons: With almost four hundred five-star reviews, the Five Eye doesn’t have a lot of cons, but like any nylon strap, the look isn’t elegant or refined and wouldn’t be a great pairing for dressier watches. ORDER HERE Glomar Explorer - Hook And Loop Watch Strap - $47 Modeled off traditional hook-and-loop dive watch straps, the Glomar Explorer is a premium single-pass adjustable adventure strap for those who use their watches as tools. We set out to create a premium “hook and loop” watch strap, something that many consider an oxymoron. After many iterations over a six-month period and extensive testing, we finally came up with the design of the Glomar Explorer. We developed an ultra-thin custom matte weave nylon construction, a custom 316L stainless steel engraved buckle, and a strap keeper to ensure the watch remains secure on your wrist. The Glomar Explorer is available in two lengths, Short (for wrists between 5.5 to 6.5 IN/14 to 16.5 CM) and Standard (for wrists between 6.5 to 8.5 IN/16.5 to 21.5 CM), and in two colors: black and admiralty grey with olive green coming soon. The strap name is derived from USNS Hughes Glomar Explorer, a deep-sea drillship platform that was used by the CIA to recover a Soviet submarine K-129 in the Pacific Ocean in 1974. To be clear, this is not your grandpa’s Walmart hook and loop strap. Cons: With a casual and utilitarian look, a hook and loop strap simply isn’t going to be for everyone. Sizing will also be an issue for some as the wearing experience will depend on the lug length of the watch in question, wrist size, and how tightly the strap is worn.  ORDER HERE Single Pass Zulu Alpha Strap 4.0 - $145 It’s crazy to think we’re on the fourth iteration of our collaboration with Zulu Alpha, one of the world’s premier makers of fabric straps and a supplier of other webbing items to the British Ministry of Defense (MOD). Back in 2022, we started with the 1.0, with each subsequent variant incorporating color changes and small upgrades inspired by the community. Our Single Pass Zulu Alpha 4.0 is the culmination of everything we’ve learned working with Zulu Alpha and direct feedback from end users. Completely constructed in Great Britain, the 4.0 is 11.8 IN (30 CM) long, 1.2mm thick, and complete with a uniquely adhered patch with the W.O.E. Spearhead logo. Secured by way of an over-engineered stainless steel buckle that is also available with a PVD finish, the 4.0 is available in both 20 and 22-mm widths and will fit the vast majority of adult wrists. If you’re looking for the most premium, capable, and durable fabric strap on the market, this is it, full stop. Cons: Every aspect of our Zulu Alpha straps is ultra-premium, produced entirely in the UK, and designed without compromise. The price reflects our no-holds-barred approach to a fabric watch strap for the most extreme conditions. ORDER HERE USA Five Eye - Third Option Foundation - $40 While it’s otherwise the same as our standard Five Eye Straps, our USA Third Option Foundation Fundraiser offers the most eye-catching visual format in our entire collection with a subtle play on the red, white, and blue color scheme. Benefitting CIA paramilitary officers and their families, $20 (50%) of every USA Five Eye sale goes directly to Third Option Foundation. Just as at home sipping PBR in your local dive bar as it is sailing the Cape on your dad’s catamaran, the USA Stripe Five Eye is the undisputed strap of summer. Available in both 20 and 22mm, the USA Five Eye can also be purchased with PVD hardware, a look works a lot better than we thought it would. Cons: Celebrating freedom and donating to charity aren’t for everyone.  This strap is a limited edition. Once it’s gone, it’s gone. ORDER HERE W.O.E Leather Straps While there is a lot of virtue signaling and overstated marketing language associated with goods that are “Made in America”, supporting small businesses in the United States is in line with our core beliefs as a community. This is especially true when it comes to leather goods. There is no shortage of reasonably high-quality leather straps imported from Asia, but we believe the finest leather straps come from right here in the USA or, in some cases, Europe.  With that in mind, our collection of leather straps is entirely produced by hand in small batches from the finest quality materials in the United States or Europe, with each strap demonstrating subtle differences and the ability to patina over time for a custom look and feel. Like all leather straps, these are not your best options for use in or around water but do provide a durable and handsome pairing for field watches, vintage divers on desk duty, or any other refined watch in your collection. Jedburgh Leather Watch Strap - $115 Named after the Jedburgh teams of the Office of Strategic Services (OSS), “The Jedburgh” was W.O.E’s first leather strap, handmade in the USA with American-made English bridle leather. Available to fit 20 and 22-mm lugs, the Jedburgh is complete with a subtle W.O.E. Spearhead stamp at the tip, white hand stitching throughout, and a buckle available in either polished stainless steel or black-coated PVD. The Jedburgh is designed to break in for a comfortable custom fit that is best for wrists between 5.75 to 7.5 IN (14.6 to 19.1 CM). For a refined look, the Jedburgh also tapers 4 millimeters from the lugs to the buckle, meaning the buckle measures 16mm on the 20mm strap and 18mm for the 22mm variant. Cons: Tapering from 20 to 16mm and shorter than some of our straps, the Jedburgh is not the best choice for larger wrists or heavier watches. While we’ve seen some of you guys push the envelope, the Jedburgh is also not the best option for extreme use i.e. jumping out of airplanes. ORDER HERE Horween Leather and Canvas Strap - $185 Produced in the United States in extremely limited quantities, our Leather and Canvas Strap pairs Horween leather tanned in Chicago with repurposed camouflage canvas from surplus military uniforms. These robust straps were designed by W.O.E. in collaboration with Greg Stevens Design, one of the best in the custom leather strap business, and manufactured by hand in Utah. Available in 20 and 22-mm widths, the Leather and Canvas strap is thicker than the Jedburgh and does not taper, making this strap an excellent choice for heavier watches while being designed to fit wrist sizes between 6.25 to 7.75 IN (15.9 to 19.7 CM). Given our use of repurposed military uniforms, this strap also offers a wide range of variation in terms of the actual color and condition of the canvas material. Complete with a signed stainless steel buckle, the Leather and Canvas Strap is a more rugged leather option ideally suited for larger watches and larger wrists. Cons: Manufactured without taper and with a less subtle look compared to many of our straps, our Leather and Canvas Strap is unapologetically extreme and therefore not for everyone. ORDER HERE Leather Single Pass Zulu - $92 Our newest leather strap, the Leather Single Pass Zulu is intended to serve as a bridge between our leather strap collection and the legendary nylon pull-through straps long favored by military members and divers. Manufactured in the United States from a single layer of premium cowhide measuring 1.4mm thick, the Leather Single Pass Zulu also provides a “pull up” effect meaning the leather lightens when stretched or creased, creating a custom finish unique to your wearing experience. In comparison to many nylon pull-through straps, the tail on our Single Pass Zulu is shorter, and the hardware is closer together, designed for wrists up to 7.5 IN (19.1 CM). With hand stitching and more rugged leather material, the Single Pass Zulu is our most casual leather strap, pairing well with utilitarian tool watches.  Cons: Despite being modeled after nylon straps designed for diving, this leather strap is not intended for in-water use. Wearing leather straps on dive watches is a controversial topic, anyway.  ORDER HERE Final Thoughts:  While we believe there is a strap in our collection that will work for virtually any watch or scenario, like choosing a new watch, strap selection is highly individual and personal. There is no one-size-fits-all solution and like with any tool, we encourage you to experiment and find out what works best for you. Subsequent iterations of our straps will always be informed by your feedback. Be sure to let us know what you think.  View our entire strap collection HERE.

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Precision In Flight: IWC’s Historical & Enduring Bond With Military Aviation

Precision In Flight: IWC’s Historical & Enduring Bond With Military Aviation

As a CIA Case Officer, one of my go-to watches was an IWC Mark XVII. It’s a great and versatile watch that can fit in...

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As a CIA Case Officer, one of my go-to watches was an IWC Mark XVII. It’s a great and versatile watch that can fit in with a suit and tie at a diplomatic function in Europe or jeans and a dirty t-shirt in the African bush. Notably, IWC also has a strong squadron watch program and a significant following in the aviation community around the world.  To document a first-hand perspective, we asked Nic Barnes, an Australian military pilot, to write a Dispatch on the history of the brand and his experience using IWC watches as a military aviator. This piece is co-written with Henry Black, a previous W.O.E. contributor and full-time journalist based in Australia. As always, this content is not sponsored and the views and perspectives are of the authors. At W.O.E., we are brand agnostic but do support any brand that supports our community. Precision In Flight: IWC’s Historical & Enduring Bond With Military Aviation IWC’s Special Pilot’s Watch Ref. IW436. (Photo Credit: IWC) International Watch Company (IWC) Schaffhausen is a watchmaker steeped in history. Their modern line of luxury tool watches are direct descendants of the company’s military aviation watches of the mid-20th Century.  IWC Schaffhausen’s history with pilot’s watches predates World War II. In 1936, the company was owned by Ernst Homberger who had two sons that were keen amateur pilots. The boys helped to produce the Special Pilot’s Watch (Ref. IW436) using their flying experience to dictate the specifications and requirements of the timepiece. The design established the foundational DNA for IWC’s future pilot’s watches with an emphasis on legibility and durability that would in time lead to two distinct watch families - the ‘Big Pilot’ and ‘Mark’ series. Watches Of War During WWII, the United Kingdom’s Ministry of Defence (MoD) identified a requirement to replace the aging Army Trade Pattern (ATP) watches that had adorned the wrists of their troops since 1939. These new timepieces needed to be waterproof, shockproof, and highly accurate with a black dial, legible Arabic numerals, and the ability to read the watch at night. Twelve Swiss watchmakers took on the task of manufacturing these W.W.W. (‘Wrist Watch Waterproof’) specification watches. As one of the 12 makers, IWC provided an estimated 5,000 – 6,000 ‘Dirty Dozen’ timepieces to the MoD. The design would later evolve into the IWC Mark 11 – introduced after the war in the late 1940s.  IWC’s W.W.W. is one of the rarer ‘Dirty Dozen’ watches in circulation today. (Photo Credit: Watch-Site x Steltman Watches) Interestingly, while IWC was supplying W.W.W. watches to Commonwealth forces, it was concurrently supplying the German Luftwaffe (Air Force) with ‘B-Uhr’ timepieces. These onion-crowned watches were over 50mm in size and featured sword hands along with a prominent triangle and paired dots marking the 12 o’clock position. Much of the design DNA in today’s IWC Pilot’s line-up can be seen in these oversized pilot’s watches for the Luftwaffe with IWC’s modern Big Pilot’s watches drawing their aesthetics directly from the Luftwaffe B-Uhrs. Of note, IWC supplied watches to both the Axis and the Allies during WWII. IWC produced approximately 1,000 B-Uhr models for the Luftwaffe (Photo Credit: SJX) War Reaches Schaffhausen WWII did not leave IWC’s hometown of Schaffhausen unscathed. In April 1944 a disorientated U.S. Air Force bomber group of 15 B-24 Liberators mistook the Swiss town for a German target. Dropping as many as 371 high explosive bombs and incendiary munitions on the town, the resulting carnage killed 40 people (including members of author Henry’s own family) and caused widespread damage. One bomb dropped through the roof of the IWC factory but luckily did not explode.  A B-24 Liberator of the 392nd Bomb Group that accidentally bombed Schaffhausen in 1944. (Photo Credit: United States Army Air Force) Interestingly, declassified correspondence from November 1944 gives further insight into such incidents. Director of Office of Strategic Services (OSS), William J. Donovan describes to Commander of the United States Army Air Forces, General Henry H. Arnold that the accidental American bombing of Swiss towns was deeply disturbing the Chief of Staff of the Swiss Army and increasing ‘the difficulty in obtaining Swiss cooperation in our present task of penetrating Germany’. Mark 11 – A New Standard in Military Aviation Timepieces After the war, IWC introduced their navigator's wristwatch Mk.11 - Stores Ref. 6B/346 (Mark 11), taking the basic principles of the tough tool watch that was the W.W.W. and upping the ante. The Mark 11 removed the sub-seconds and utilized an IWC Calibre 89 manual wind movement with a central seconds. It featured a Faraday cage to resist magnetic interference and proved to be immensely capable as a timepiece for military aviators. These watches were issued to Commonwealth Air Forces, including the Royal Air Forces of Great Britain, Australia, New Zealand, the South African Air Force, and the British Overseas Airways Corporation (BOAC). IWC Mark 11 for the Royal Australian Air Force circa 1957 (Photo Credit: IWC) Neo-Classic IWC Military-Inspired Models The design of the Mark 11 (which was in production from 1949-1953 with a second iteration for the civilian market from 1973-1984) went on to influence the ‘Mark’ timepieces that followed, specifically the Mark XII (introduced in 1994) and Mark XV (introduced in 1999). These subsequent iterations utilized a similar handset design including the iconic ‘block’ hour hand and classical sizing – the Mark XII was 36mm, and the Mark XV was 38mm. The Mark XII used a Jaeger Le-Coultre calibre while the Mark XV used a heavily modified ETA 2892-A2. The Mark XV was the last of the Mark series to feature the ‘block’ hour hand (Photo Credit: Henry Black) The Mark XVI represented a turning point in IWC’s modern pilot designs – one that has continued to the current Mark XX. While retaining their commitment to solid specifications, the numeral font, dotted triangle marker at 12, and use of flieger sword hands have far more in common with the Luftwaffe B-Uhr watches than the MoD Mark 11s that share the Mark name. This flieger design is reflected across other modern IWC pilots including the Big Pilot and Pilot Chronograph, unfortunately leaving the original Mark 11 with no aesthetic successor in the brand’s current catalogue. IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Edition ‘RAAF’ (Photo Credit: @timepoor) Modern Military Connections In 2007, IWC entered a commercial relationship with the US Navy, becoming an official licensee and beginning their line of TOP GUN watches. Featuring the logo of the 1980s hit movie of the same name, the series of watches became a stable of IWC’s offerings with licensing fees directly funding morale, welfare, and recreation programs for US sailors, retirees, and their families. TOPGUN & Other "Unit Watches" The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition 'SFTI' features the school’s patch on the dial (Photo Credit: @h.m.uhren) This prepared the foundation of a more organic relationship – IWC’s foray into custom squadron watches. Having seen watches from the TOP GUN line, pilots from the United States Navy Fighter Weapons School (the real TOPGUN) reached out to IWC to investigate the feasibility of making their own piece for the Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor (SFTI) program. The result was the 2018 release of the IWC’s first custom military piece – the Edition ‘SFTI’ in both a Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII and a Pilot’s Watch Chronograph. These exclusive watches continue to be made today but can only be purchased by TOPGUN graduates. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Edition 'SFTI' worn by Monica Barbaro on the set of Top Gun: Maverick  (Photo Credit: Paramount) The SFTI connection paid dividends for IWC when filming began for Top Gun: Maverick. The film crew noticed the Navy pilots wearing their custom IWCs and, in pursuit of authenticity, ended up being introduced by the pilots to IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr, resulting in almost every character in the film wearing IWCs.  Since the first SFTI watches, exclusive squadron collaborations have continued at a small scale and considered pace. This means IWC is very particular about the projects the brand approves, with limited production slots available. Falling under the Richemont group, IWC is generally hesitant to publicly elaborate on their military collaborations although Watches and Wonders 2022 marked a departure from this discretion. The IWC booth featured an exhibit of the brand’s military projects to date – with a total of 18 on display IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph ‘APACHE AH-64E’ (Photo Credit: @chrisgraingerherr) While predominantly working with US Navy fighter squadrons, other military editions were shown including watches for Swiss Air Force Staffel 11, French Aeronavale, No. 663 Squadron Army Air Corps (British AH-64 Apache attack helicopters), and a very special homage to the IWC Mark 11 issued to Royal Australian Air Force aircrew in the 1950s. Notably, all known custom military projects have strict and tangible ties to professional military aviation. IWC Big Pilot’s Watch ‘TYPHOON DRIVER’ (Photo Credit: @blackseries_driver) The Future of Aviation Horology  Beyond atmospheric flight, IWC was recently involved with the Inspiration4 private space program. Commanded by the billionaire owner of the world’s largest private air force, Jared Isaacman (under usual W.O.E. criteria you’d expect him to be a Breitling guy), Each of the four astronauts of this first all-civilian mission to orbit wore a custom Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition ‘Inspiration4’. After the mission each watch was auctioned, raising a total of $405,000 USD for St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital in Memphis. Collaborations with Isaacman’s space endeavors are forecast to continue with the launch of the Polaris Dawn mission later this year. This mission is scheduled to include the first private spacewalk and result in another auction of new special edition IWCs to be worn during the flight.  The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition ‘Inspiration4’ (Image credit: IWC) Final Thoughts While the role of wristwatches in aviation has changed over the last century, IWC’s commitment to aviation ‘use-your-tools’ wristwatches remains. From the humble beginnings of IWC’s Special Pilot’s Watch in 1936 to their custom pieces for private space exploration, IWC has firmly and legitimately positioned itself as a brand for professional aviators, synonymous with the frank design purpose of the pilot’s watch. IWC Pilot’s Chronograph ‘Death Rattlers’ (Photo Credit: @wingwatches) Their commitment to legibility, durability, and continuous technical improvement, along with their lasting ties to military aviation resonates with the W.O.E. community, creating unique watches to be cherished and used by generations to come. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Watches Of The War In Ukraine   About The Authors: Nic is an Australian military pilot who has been a follower of W.O.E. since the early days. He has a particular interest in custom military watch projects having designed and produced timepieces with multiple brands Henry is a journalist based in Australia who writes about watches in his spare time. He’s worked around the world including in conflict zones. He’s passionate about watches and how the hobby brings people together. Cover Photo Credit: IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Edition ‘AÉRONAVALE’ (Photo Credit: @etienne_b___r)

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The Best Military Watches For Land, Sea, & Air

The Best Military Watches For Land, Sea, & Air

A Capable Timepiece Is An Essential Tool For Service Members Timepieces intended for the military have inspired the broader watch industry since the earliest days...

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A Capable Timepiece Is An Essential Tool For Service Members Timepieces intended for the military have inspired the broader watch industry since the earliest days of wristwatches. Names like the Rolex Submariner, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Breguet Type XX, and Hamilton Khaki have all been influenced by or owe their very existence to military use. Buying a watch can be challenging and modern watch marketing clouds the picture, with major watch brands seeking an edge by calling out tenuous or altogether false associations with certain hyped military organizations or units, particularly from the world of special operations. In reality, most modern military members utilize digital tool watches (D.T.W.) to perform their duties, seeking attainability and utility above all else. But, as we’ve so often documented in the W.O.E. Dispatch, a growing subset of the military and the Intelligence Community value the combination of utility, heritage, and mechanical intrigue presented by analog timepieces. In addition, many outside the military reach for military watches because they provide not only a rugged aesthetic but also a higher level of legibility and durability in comparison to more pedestrian options. In this Dispatch, we’ll present our choices for analog watches intended for military members operating in the most common environments: land, sea, and air. If you’re on the cusp of graduating from basic training, officer candidate school (OCS), another more specialized pipeline, or you’re just a regular civilian who appreciates the “Use Your Tools” ethos, our picks represent a wide range of price points, spanning affordable options for the brand-new privates out there as well as a few luxury options for the academy ring-knockers with family manors in the Hamptons. Land - Watches For The Field Timex Expedition North Field Mechanical - $229 Timex has surprisingly deep military associations dating back to World War I when the brand created specialized pocket watches for artillery gunners. Also known for watches worn by US presidents and its plastic, disposable field watches provided to the US Army in the 1980s, modern Timex has a legitimate right to the field watch DNA embodied by the Expedition North Field Mechanical. Measuring 38mm in diameter, the North Field Mechanical offers 100 meters of water resistance, a hand-winding mechanical caliber, and an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, rare specs for this price range that combine to represent a solid field watch for any infantryman on a budget. CWC G10 Military Issue Watch - $300  In contrast to almost every other brand on this list, CWC was created for no reason other than to supply military watches to the British Ministry of Defense (MOD), providing its first quartz-powered G10 in 1980. The modern G10 is — beyond a slimmer case profile — almost identical to the original, still equipped with fixed lug bars, a Swiss quartz caliber, a legible dial and handset, a battery hatch for easy battery changes, and a relatively modest 50 meters of water resistance. Over 200,000 of these simple field watches have been issued over the years, serving as further proof of the utility of this legendary British field watch design. Marathon General Purpose Mechanical - $420 Almost a Canadian answer to a brand like CWC, Marathon was founded in 1939 and was already supplying watches and clocks to the Allied war effort by 1941. Better known for its SAR collection of dive watches, Marathon also produces a large volume of its General Purpose Mechanical field watches for military contracts. Powered by a Seiko NH35, the automatic GPM is housed within a 34mm High-Impact Composite Fibreshell case paired with a stainless steel bezel. Easily visible at night thanks to tritium gas tubes on the dial and hands, the GPM’s smaller size is actually an asset, making the watch unobtrusive when paired with a bunch of tactical equipment. As a note for anyone less familiar with watch sizes, the combination of the 34mm case and a 16-millimeter wide strap means the GPM wears relatively small. Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic - $695  A supplier to the US Military since the First World War, Hamilton is probably the number one name in field watches thanks to its heritage and the value proposition offered by the modern Khaki Field collection. Our pick for this list is the Khaki Field Automatic, offering a more modern design compared to its more-celebrated hand-winding sibling, the Khaki Field Mechanical, as well as 100 meters of water resistance, and a Swiss automatic caliber offering 80 hours of power reserve. If you’re newer to watches and looking for a proven do-it-all field design that is as appropriate for daily wear as military service, this is going to be one of your best bets. Seiko Alpinist SPB121 - $725  The successor to the SARB017, an all-time watch enthusiast favorite from Seiko, the SPB121 is the modern form of the Alpinist, which is the Japanese brand’s explorer’s or field watch. Measuring 39.5mm in diameter, the Alpinist has a few quirks including the use of a cyclops, the odd pairing of green and gold on the dial and hands, and an internal compass bezel. Still, a legible design, impressive lume, and a ridiculous-for-this-category 200 meters of water resistance mean the Alpinist is a field watch deserving of Seiko’s heritage in this department, having been the producer of capable field watches for specialized units including MACV-SOG during the Vietnam War. Tudor Ranger - $3,300  Once positioned as a cheaper Rolex alternative within the same family business structure, modern Tudor has become so much more than that. As we’ve established many times in the Dispatch, Tudors of Espionage (T.O.E.) are very much a thing including special unit versions of the brand’s dive watches, the Black Bay and Pelagos, as well as the brand’s Explorer-like field watch, the Ranger. Also one of the least expensive sports watches in the collection, the modern Ranger is now 39mm in diameter, powered by an in-house caliber, and capable of hard use for anyone looking to test the “Use Your Tools” ethos on a Swiss luxury watch. Rolex Explorer 40 - $7,700 Assuming you’re an Academy graduate, former captain of the polo team, daddy’s special boy, and a newly minted second lieutenant, you may be able to flex something like the Rolex Explorer 40 in uniform. An inspiration for virtually the entire Rolex sport collection, the Explorer as a model family has incredible chops in the arena of mountaineering history, having accompanied Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on their 1953 ascent of the world's tallest mountain. Today serving more as a luxury item given the price point, the Explorer is still one hell of a watch for anything outdoors, but likely not a serious option for most service members relying upon their biweekly direct deposit. Sea - Watches For The Maritime Environment Scurfa Diver One D1-500 - $250  To put it mildly, the advent of so-called “microbrands” has changed the watch landscape forever, bringing previously unobtainable features and specifications to price points once thought unimaginable. A great example of this trend is Scurfa Watches founded by commercial saturation diver Paul Scurfield. For around $250, the Diver One serves up a domed sapphire crystal, 500 meters of water resistance, a real helium escape valve tested by the founder, some of the best lume on this entire list, and a custom rubber strap. For anyone on the aquatic end of the military searching for a durable dive watch for a more affordable price even compared to brands like Seiko or Citizen, Scurfa is one of the more compelling options to explore. Seiko Prospex SRPE99 - $550  Affectionately known to enthusiasts as the “Turtle” for its cushion case shape, the SRPE99 is inspired by the older 6309, one of Seiko’s most iconic dive watch designs and a watch issued to numerous special operations units including the US Navy SEALs. Revived in 2016, the modern Turtle provides hacking and hand-winding functionality, a larger 45mm case that thankfully wears smaller thanks to its shorter lugs, and much of the old-school Turtle DNA throughout the dial and hands. With the SKX having been discontinued a few years back, the Turtle is Seiko’s flagship automatic diver in this price bracket. Seiko makes some of the most effective utilitarian dive watches on the market, and the Turtle — whichever variant you go for — is a great place to start for any military diver. Tornek-Rayville TR-660 - $895  One of the more intriguing tales in dive watch history, the original Tornek-Rayville was essentially a modified Blancpain Fifty Fathoms intended to subvert the Buy American Act requiring military organizations to purchase US-made goods. Designed for US Navy SEALs and other amphibious special operators, vintage Tornek-Rayville TR-900s have become prohibitively expensive for most, making Mk II and Bill Yao’s relaunch of the brand and watch a couple of years back all the more exciting. While it stays close to the vintage look, the modern TR-660 is subtly upgraded everywhere you look from the Seiko automatic caliber to the domed sapphire crystal to the custom-woven nylon strap. If celebrating the old-school with a modern diving tool appeals to you, Tornek-Rayville is a niche pick worthy of a closer look. Citizen Aqualand JP2007-17W - $550  In military and commercial diving circles, Citizen is one of the top names in the game thanks to models like the Aqualand, an analog-digital diver that debuted in 1985. An ISO-6425-rated professional dive watch, the Aqualand combines diving functionality including a depth gauge in a robust utilitarian package that simply works, earning fans among Navy SEALs and other amphibious military units. The modern Aqualand appears almost unchanged compared to the OG other than a new caliber using one battery instead of three on the older model. Last year, Citizen unveiled the JP2007-17W, a new Aqualand with a full lume dial housed within a dark grey PVD case. For the price, it’s among the best picks on this list for anyone doing the military’s wettest and saltiest work. Marathon GSAR 41mm - $1,500  Many of the watches on this list are great for military divers, but only the Marathon GSAR is currently for military and government issue through official supply channels. Surprisingly, the SAR family of watches has a history closely linked to the enthusiast community, with Marathon having tapped the head of a niche military watch forum for help designing the watch in 2001. Intended for Canadian Air Force Search and Rescue Technicians (SAR Techs), the modern GSAR or Government Search And Rescue provides 300 meters of water resistance, a Swiss automatic caliber, tritium tubes on the dial and hands, and one of the best rubber straps in the price range. Our in-house maritime expert, Benjamin Lowry, recently went diving with the SAR collection, confirming its utility in the underwater environment.  Sinn U50 Hydro - $2,690  Another brand closely associated with military diving is Sinn, which was founded by a pilot named Helmut Sinn in 1961. Despite its aviation heritage, Sinn is well known for dive watches backed by impressive tech not commonly seen elsewhere including the oil-filled approach utilized in the new U50 Hydro. Based on the 41mm U50, the U50 Hydro swaps an automatic movement for quartz which is the only option when the central case is filled with oil, a seldom seen method of combatting water pressure that makes the watch all but pressure-proof. Another oil-filled watch from Sinn is standard issue for the KSM or Kommando Spezialkräfte der Marine, essentially the German Navy SEAL equivalent and the brand also makes special “mission timers” for the GSG 9, the German Federal Police’s special operations unit. Tudor Pelagos 39 - $4,700 A favorite of the W.O.E. team, our next pick is the Tudor Pelagos 39, the hotly-anticipated smaller version of the 42mm Pelagos that is just a bit too large for some wrists. While it’s not cheap, Tudor presents a solid value for what you’re getting in a modern luxury dive watch from Switzerland, with the P39 housed within a grade 2 titanium case and equipped with a manufacture caliber providing 70 hours of power reserve. The Pelagos FXD might seem like the obvious choice here, but we’re going with the 39 for its versatility, a watch that looks just as appropriate on its rubber strap with dive gear as it does on its bracelet with a dress uniform. Whether we like it or not, most knuckle-dragging enlisted divers simply aren’t reaching for a $5,000 watch for actual diving duties. Omega Seamaster Diver 300 - $5,900  Often associated with James Bond, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300 is also a watch with legitimate military history including use by the Special Boat Service, Danish Frogmen, and the US Navy SEALs. Originally intended as a direct competitor to the Rolex Submariner, Omega’s professional diving watch now comes in at around half the trading price of a regular Sub while offering finishing and specifications that exceed the Rolex in some departments. Rather than simply engraving a caseback for special orders from military organizations, Omega also has a completely different version of the Diver 300 with a matte-finished case and bracelet, no-date dial, and a special color for its luminescent material. The days of military organizations issuing watches like the Seamaster are long gone, but for anyone seeking a dive watch offering a blend of military provenance and luxury, the Seamaster Diver 300 is one of the better options.  Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 42mm - $16,600  To get it out there right up front, a $17,000 watch probably isn’t going to be the number one pick for military members, but it is important to pay homage to the original gangsters in this space. Dating back to 1953 and designed specifically for the needs of French commando frogmen, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms cemented the format we now innately understand as the prototypical dive watch. Having climbed the ranks of luxury brands over the past 70 years, the recently-released Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatic Titanium 42mm isn’t for everyone given its price tag, but would still serve as one hell of a dive watch for anyone with the scratch. Air  - Watches For Pilots & Aircrew Seiko 5 Sports SSK001 - $460  Beyond durability, low-pressure resistance, and legibility, the ability to track a second timezone is one of the most useful aspects of a pilot’s watch. If there has been one major change in more affordable watches in the past few years, it is the advent of less expensive mechanical GMT watches, with Seiko’s SSK collection leading the way. For under $500, the SSK001 offers a friction-fit, bidirectional GMT bezel, an automatic “caller” GMT caliber, and the established case silhouette and dial format calling back to Seiko’s legendary SKX007 and SKX009. Also backed by 100 meters of water resistance, the Seiko SSK001 is one of the better inexpensive GMT watches on the market and ideal for a budding military pilot while also being a brand with extensive service history in the US Military in particular. Sangin Kinetic II - $600  Despite plenty of negative outcomes from the Global War On Terror, one of the positives has been the rise of entrepreneurship among GWOT veterans whether we’re talking about coffee, apparel brands, knives, or watches. Sangin was founded by a Marine Recon Raider and specializes in watches intended for military environments while also representing solid value for what you’re getting. The Kinetic II is Sangin’s purpose-built aviator’s watch, the result of extensive testing by over forty military pilots and aircrew. With a ridiculous 300 meters of water resistance, Swiss-made Super-LumiNova on the dial and hands, and a Swiss Ronda GMT quartz caliber, the Kinetic II is a lesser-known but not less capable option for any military pilot looking to celebrate the community with a legitimate tool watch. Longines Spirit Zulu Time - $3,150  Another brand with legendary status in the arena of pilot’s watches is Longines which produced specialized watches intended for flight for none other than Charles Lindbergh. Also once a supplier to the Czech military, modern Longines still makes some excellent watches for pilots including the Spirit Zulu Time. With refined looks, design DNA that calls back to vintage Longines designs, and an impressive caliber offering “true” GMT (or Zulu Time) functionality and 72 hours of power reserve, the Zulu Time is one of the better “entry-to-luxury” options for a GMT watch today. Of interest to military pilots, the Zulu Time is also available on a wide range of straps including an excellent leather strap with a micro-adjusting clasp, a traditional nylon strap, and a well-done stainless steel bracelet. Bremont U-2 - $4,950 Coming from a brand founded by a pair of pilots, Bremont was always going to need to be on this list. Also one of the primary producers of “unit watches” in the current watchmaking landscape, Bremont’s U-2, which was designed with input from serving military pilots, is our pick for this list. Housed within a 43mm case made of hardened steel, the chronometer movement inside the U-2 is located within a rubberized movement mount that reduces the effect of shocks. Also including an internal rotating bezel operated by way of one of the two crowns, the U-2 can be used for a variety of different navigational computations. There have been numerous unit-specific versions of Bremont watches over the years, the U-2 is one of the most common models chosen by military aviation professionals for good reason. Breitling Navitimer - $9,850 Among the all-time icons in the world of aviation timekeeping, the Breitling Navitimer is at or very near the top, having been created with pilots in mind back in 1953 in association with the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA). Like a few other watches on this list, Breitling has ascended to a more luxurious position but still has a strong history of use by military pilots as well as numerous other sketchy dudes. Looking at the functionality, the Navitimer is of course a chronograph but also offers a unique rotating internal bezel that can be used for a wide range of navigational and computational functions directly related to the needs of pilots in the air. You wouldn’t necessarily think of a watch costing nine grand on the wrist of a military pilot, but when it comes to the Breitling Navitimer and a few other models from the brand including the Aerospace and Emergency, it happens more often than you’d imagine. IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX - $5,250  Used by military pilots on both sides of World War II, IWC is another brand with serious legitimacy in the world of military aviation. While IWC’s chronographs including the Top Gun collection receive a lot of the shine, our pick in this category is the Mark XX which traces its history to the Mark XI, a watch produced for the British Military by IWC (and other brands) in the wake of the Second World War. Today, the Mark series serves as a robust time-only watch honoring IWC’s heritage in the space while also providing crystal clear legibility for modern pilots. Recently reimagined, the Mark XX offers 100 meters of water resistance and a more wearable case compared to previous iterations. For the price, the movement is also solid, providing an extended five-day or 120-hour power reserve. Rolex GMT-Master II - $10,900  In the arena of sports GMT watches, whether we like it or not, one name reigns supreme: The Rolex GMT-Master II. When the original GMT-Master was unveiled in 1954, the watch aligned with the early jet-setting era and the advent of business travel, but the GMT-Master and later the GMT-Master II would become legendary in our community thanks to the watch’s use by pilots as well as special operations personnel. One might argue the modern GMT-Master II feels more jewel than tool, but there are still numerous instances of military members selecting this iconic model for hard use in austere environments including the cockpit. Final Thoughts As we mentioned, any of the watches in this could be replaced by a capable digital tool watch, but for anyone in uniform who values the mechanical intrigue and heritage represented by a quality timepiece, this list is for you. Our goal is to let this be a living article that we can add as we go until we’ve created the most complete list of excellent analog military watches on the internet. If you think something is missing, be sure to let us know in the comments. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: Watches of Diplomatic Security   *As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. When you click on links to various watches in this article and make a purchase, this can result in Watches of Espionage earning a commission.

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The Watch Industry & Celebrity Marketing Through the Ages

The Watch Industry & Celebrity Marketing Through the Ages

Celebrity Watch Deals Are Nothing New—But Are They As Compelling As They Once Were?  Last year, watch media was flown into Mykonos, Greece from all...

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Celebrity Watch Deals Are Nothing New—But Are They As Compelling As They Once Were?  Last year, watch media was flown into Mykonos, Greece from all over the globe. The occasion? The 75th Anniversary of the Omega Seamaster. The real reason folks came out? Dinner with George Clooney, the salt-and-pepper Hollywood heartthrob on Omega’s payroll. A play-by-play account of the experience from an insider ran in Revolution Magazine: The sun was setting on a beach Omega managed to make private for the evening. Picture this: 2,000 candles covered the sand where a strong breeze was making sure my hair would make me look as if I had just gotten out of bed, or as if I had stuck two fingers into an electrical socket. There were 140 guests split into two tables and I was fortunate enough to sit at George Clooney’s…I mean, he’s a fuckin’ 62-year-old god I would date in a split second, even if, for the record, he is my Dad’s age. Thankfully, he’s married to a goddess named Amal Clooney, and fully taken. Although… I have to say that when I laid eyes on him, it felt as if I was struck by a bolt of lightning from Zeus himself. Omega CEO Reynaldo Aeschlimann (far left), George Clooney, (right of center), and a few other of Omega’s notable celebrity partners in Mykonos. (Photo Credit: Revolution) Needless to say, celebrities are a highly effective tool for getting the watch media to write about a certain event or product. That much is evident from the sort of celebrity coverage the watch world gave to the Met Gala the other week. In fact, entire TikTok and Instagram accounts have cropped up dedicated to covering what watches celebrities wear. And with them, a large following. W.O.E. is indifferent when it comes to this kind of celebrity marketing and I can confidently say a movie star wearing a watch has never impacted my buying habits. That said, for better or worse, celebrity endorsements are a massive part of modern watch culture. What we think about them doesn’t matter. They’re not going anywhere.  So how exactly did we get here? What happened to the iconic watch advertisements featuring people of real consequence shaping the course of history?  It has to do with the shifting aspirations of watch consumers, the changing role of the wristwatch, and the influencer economy. In this Dispatch, we’ll explore how watch marketing shifted from pilots, explorers, and divers to vapid Hollywood celebrities and K-pop superstars. The Early Age Of “Celebrity” Testimonials  Charles Lindbergh pictured alongside the Spirit of St. Louis in 1927.  Many pilots died trying to claim the Orteig Prize, a $25,000 cash prize for anyone who could fly from New York to Paris nonstop. Charles Lindbergh famously won the prize in 1927, but not before between six and 15 pilots perished in the competition, depending on the source of reporting. Lindbergh eventually became somewhat of an ambassador for Longines and later developed the “Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch” with Philip Van Horn Weems of the US Navy, an early pioneer of modern aerial navigation techniques. A celebrated pilot and explorer, Lindbergh was one of the earliest “celebrity” ambassadors for Longines in the ‘30s.  A 1931 advertisement for the Longines “Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch”. In the aviation world, one mid-century aviator’s name looms large, and that is, of course, Chuck Yeager. He was famously a Rolex ambassador, but he wasn’t the first ambassador who challenged the status quo in a profession and rose to stardom that Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf would capitalize on. Wilsdorf was a brilliant marketer, and while the testimonial model was certainly used before, he took it to a new level and leveraged celebrity status in a novel way.  Rolex advertisement featuring legendary pilot Chuck Yeager. In 1927, Mercedes Gleitze swam across the English Channel with a Rolex strapped to her wrist (some accounts say it was around her neck). She was just 26 years old and spent a grueling 10 hours in the water. When she reached shore, her watch was in perfect order. In the 1920s, this was an incredible feat of engineering and paired well with the equally challenging real-world accomplishment. Wilsdorf then made her a brand ambassador, using Gleitze’s stardom as a record holder to demonstrate the waterproof properties of the “Oyster” case.  An advertisement for Rolex’s Oyster case technology celebrating Mercedes Gleitze’s English Channel swim.  That was the first instance of “celebrity” ambassadors by Rolex. Now back to Yeager. It was in 1987 that Yeager first appeared in a Rolex advertisement, although the brand had worked with him during his years of service as an aviator on product testing and development. It was only in the ‘80s that he became a spokesperson for Rolex. Rolex regarded airmen as celebrities in the mid-century era, because they were. Various advertisements even cite the Crown’s involvement with the US Air Force’s Thunderbirds, the jet demonstration team. During the ‘50s and ‘60s, the image of American might via the Thunderbirds helped Rolex sell watches.  Rolex advertisement highlighting the brand’s relationship with the US Air Force Thunderbirds. Partnerships were not limited to the high-flying variety. Underwater, Aqualung was touting its relationship with Jacques Costeau, underwater adventurer and documentarian, and Doxa was also tied up in this partnership. The ‘60s were an age of adventure, and Costeau’s films and shows filled viewers' imaginations with the magical world beneath the sea—providing a point of view they’d never seen before.  A 1958 ad from US Divers, the United States Aqua Lung affiliate, using Cousteau to market its diving equipment.  All of these “ambassadors'' (different brands called them by different names) had one thing in common: their popularity came from performing feats against the odds and contributing something important to their field. In other words, their real-world accomplishments moved the needle. As a generalization, the same can’t be said about today’s celebrity watch ambassadors, the majority of whom come from film, sports, or music. But this change also has to do with the fact that the watches being advertised back then filled a much different need than the watches of today. It’s easy to forget today, but watches were once tools. The Transmogrification From Tool To Luxury In Watches Jacques Cousteau and Luis Marden wearing Aqualung equipment, excellent social proof for Aqualung as a brand. (Photo Credit: National Geographic) Among Dr. Robert Cialdini’s “Weapons of Mass Influence'' is the concept of “social proof”. This means that in most instances, humans observe their environment and surroundings to learn what is the “correct behavior”. In simple terms, it’s looking to prominent figures for influence, observing what strategies have worked for successful individuals in the past. If Jacques Costeau used Aqualung diving equipment when he produced his famous documentary The Silent World in ‘56 and laid the foundations for what would become an era of undersea living research, then Aqualung could cite him as social proof that their equipment performed well enough for Costeau to carry out his job, which ultimately contributes to the field of undersea scientific research.  Up until the advent of phones, smartwatches, and other “wearables” that keep time, the crucial task was solely that of the mechanical wristwatch. There was no other choice. It wasn’t necessarily a fashion accessory, it had to perform its job just like any other tool one would rely on.  While often considered luxury items, watches are still critical tools in certain instances. (Photo Credit: Tudor Watch) Now in 2024 that’s not the case for the broader public. In the W.O.E. community it still very much is—while timepieces are in part about culture, they are still crucial tools used to accomplish tasks. But it’s important to remember that suits in Geneva aren’t necessarily marketing watches for the niche W.O.E. crowd. To reach a larger qualified demographic, watches are now marketed as luxury accessories.  The key takeaway is that while watches were once a necessity for the masses, they now primarily serve as a luxury item for those with horological interests and money to spend.  Classical Expressions Of Heroism Replaced By Celebrities Han So Hee, the star of K-drama Nevertheless, became an Omega ambassador in 2022.  Since the watch isn’t necessarily what it once was in terms of the role it plays, that means the way most watches are marketed and positioned must change, too.  To prove the point, let’s look at the inverse of the above hypothesis: Tools that have always been tools will still use “testimonial” style advertising, citing ambassadors that use their products for their jobs. Take a look at diving equipment manufacturer, Draeger’s online catalog and you’ll see operators, not celebrities, using their products.  The same goes for just about any gear company that’s popular in our community. You won’t find celebrities endorsing companies producing power tools and gear to get the job done.  So why did it happen in watches? Watch brands, like any other company, have one purpose: to make money. And in 2024 this means mainstream appeal. They’re going to make the most effective investment in terms of share of voice (SOV), often hiring agencies to make smart investment decisions that ultimately lead to the highest number of sales.  Whether we like it or not, actors like Brad Pitt, a Breitling ambassador, are an excellent vehicle for boosting watch awareness and sales. For better or worse, celebrities are synonymous with luxury and wield great influence. Brad Pitt, David Beckham, and Lady Gaga are leveraged to create social proof, which is in stark contrast to the “hero” or boundary-pushing individuals brands may have looked to in the past. The truth is that traditional celebrities simply have larger followings than outstanding individuals moving the needle in the world today. Investing in celebrity partnerships exposes a higher number of individuals to the brand.  Recently, K-Pop star Lisa launched her own Bulgari watch that takes inspiration from the Swiss Alps and the national flower of Switzerland, Edelweiss. This sort of release demonstrates the sort of deal watch companies engage in: They get to use a big name that draws in people, and in return, the celebrity gets clout and a big check. Lisa, a Thai national who is a member of a K-pop group, is not a known watch fan. It’s a transactional relationship, the same sort of arrangement that happens in the fashion world.  The John Mayer X Audemars Piguet Limited Edition Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is a rare example of a celebrity being associated with watches because of a genuine passion for horology. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee)  On the contrary, some deals exist in the celebrity space that make a lot of sense including the John Mayer X Audemars Piguet Limited Edition Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. Mayer stands out as the mainstream celebrity who has done a lot in terms of bringing watches to a wider audience while having a true passion for the craft. There are exceptions to every rule.  Nirmal “Nims” Purja, a former Bremont ambassador, is an excellent modern example of a brand getting behind a boundary-pushing athlete and explorer. (Photo Credit: Bremont)  While the golden era of exploration is over, there are still people today who have done far more to the advancement of humankind than any actor, fashion icon, or TikTok influencer. The problem is, that they do not wield the same influence as modern mega-celebrities do.   While it’s true that suits in Geneva hire celebrities to promote products, it’s also true that the general buying public doesn’t buy based on heroic actions of servitude anymore. While an explorer may have hundreds of thousands of followers and a certain level of influence, their ability to alter consumer decision-making en masse for $10,000 watches unfortunately just isn’t what it once was. This is more a reflection of societal interests than it is a core problem with the watch industry.  One of our altruistic motivations at W.O.E. is to maintain the ethos of the tool watch, using watches as a prism to tell stories of the unnamed men and women who actually make a difference in the world, not just on the silver screen. So What About The W.O.E. Community? What’s The Best Course Of Action?  Ryan Gosling, our nemesis and one of TAG Heuer’s modern ambassadors. (Photo Credit: TAG Heuer) With the advent of AI, the enshittification of the internet, and social media, this celebrity trend is most likely here to stay. But that doesn’t mean that you as an enthusiast have to embrace it. There’s still plenty of marketing that big watch brands use that specifically resonates with our community.  The celebrity trend only means that it’s harder for people who appreciate tool watches to find their tribe in the larger watch world. It’s like anything. There are groups inside a large whole, and then sub-groups inside those. What was once a much larger segment of the watch space has shrunk down to a much smaller group that occupies only a corner of the hobby now. We look at the world as it is, rather than how we might like it to be. This is just a fact. Those who simply don’t care about celebrities represent a smaller slice of the overall target market than those who do.  Concluding Thoughts Lisa, a K-Pop superstar, recently became a Bulgari ambassador. (Photo Credit: Bulgari) Like many interests and hobbies, what you put in is what you get out. There’s a surface-level veneer meant to appeal to the masses, and this is where standard celebrity partnerships fall. But dig deeper and there’s always another layer of authenticity and organizations doing something interesting. The deeper you go and the longer you spend wading through the watch world, the easier it becomes to separate what’s meaningful from what’s meaningless. One thing’s for sure: here at W.O.E, we’re not putting any celebrities on the payroll any time soon.  If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: A Saudi Astronaut’s Rolex GMT at the International Space Station

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Sketchy Dudes Wear Breitling - We Don’t Make The Rules

Sketchy Dudes Wear Breitling - We Don’t Make The Rules

Watches of Espionage is vehemently brand agnostic. The watches we cover are dictated by the community and one brand that consistently pops up is Breitling....

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Watches of Espionage is vehemently brand agnostic. The watches we cover are dictated by the community and one brand that consistently pops up is Breitling. There are few truths in the world of intelligence, but one of them is Sketchy Dudes Wear Breitling. Before the Breitling fan clubs take out their pitchforks and start a bonfire, we want to be clear that this phrase is neither a commendation nor a criticism. It’s an observation that, while it remains relevant today, particularly applies to the 1990s and 2000s when Breitling was the adventure watch for unapologetic men focused on aviation and diving. Breitling was a signal that the wearer is adventurous but also appreciates fine craftsmanship in utilitarian tools. Blackwater CEO Erik Prince in Afghanistan wearing a custom Breitling Emergency. (Photo Credit: Vogue) Breitling - Tools For Professionals While likely an unintended consequence of marketing watches as “tools for professionals”, the brand developed an almost cult-like following in the national security community with both good and bad actors. Breitling watches can be found on the wrists of many gray area operators — from CEO of Blackwater Erik Prince’s Breitling Emergency (READ HERE), former Soviet arms dealer Viktor Bout’s Breitling B-1, and Director of CIA George Tenet’s Breitling Aerospace. When Leonardo DiCaprio played Danny Archer, a former Rhodesian smuggler turned mercenary in the movie Blood Diamond, he wore a Breitling Chrono Avenger. All of these men are sketchy, some good sketchy, some bad sketchy, but sketchy nonetheless.  Then Director of CIA wearing Breitling Aerospace while testifying for the 9/11 Commission. (Credit: AP) Breitling - A (Very Brief) History Lesson Breitling SA was founded in 1884 by Leon Breitling and passed down through his bloodline until 1979 when the brand was purchased by Ernst Schneider, a professional soldier turned watch executive. Under the leadership of Ernst and later his son, Théodore Schneider (an aviation enthusiast and helicopter pilot), Breilting found its niche manufacturing “tools for professionals”, developing several partnerships with military aviation units including the Frecce Tricolori, the aerobatic team of the Italian Air Force. Breitling Jet Team (MigFlug) Sketchy Breitling References While collectors value several vintage Breitling references, including the iconic Navitimer 806 and Cosmonaute 809, several analog-digital models cemented Breitling’s role as a leader in producing practical tool watches built for adventure. Breitling Aerospace: W.O.E.’s Jordanian Breitling Aerospace. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) While we are certainly biased, the Breitling Aerospace maintains legendary status in our community because, at its core, it is a highly functional tool. The dual digital screens of the chronometer-certified "SuperQuartz" have practical features including a digital chronograph, a second-time zone, day and date, an alarm, and a countdown timer. The combination of a well-finished titanium case and bracelet with traditional analog hands results in a robust piece that can be worn to a black tie dinner in Mayfair or the cockpit of a Caravan on a dirt strip in Mozambique. The Aerospace was introduced in 1985, more than a decade after the “Quartz Crisis,” where many consumers moved to cheaper, more accurate timepieces, resulting in a dramatic decline in the mechanically-driven Swiss watch industry.   As previously documented, I was gifted a Breitling Aerospace with a gold Royal Crown of Jordan on the dial from King Abdullah bin Al-Hussein and wore it for much of my career while operational at CIA. The Aerospace’s technical complications were legitimately useful for conducting clandestine operations where time matters. The Aerospace as we knew it was quietly discontinued, the recent release of the updated but likely-limited Aerospace B70 Orbiter indicates more is on the horizon for one of the brand’s sketchiest model families. Breitling Emergency: Perhaps the best example of Breitlings legendary tool watch status is the Breitling Emergency. Developed in 1995 in partnership with French aviation manufacturer Dassault Electronique, the original Emergency contained a beacon that transmits a signal on the international distress frequency of 121.5 MHz. In an emergency, the wearer unscrews the cap at four o’clock and extends a thin wire antenna which automatically activates the signal. Commercial and military aircraft monitor the frequency and are able to alert search and rescue teams of an individual's location, anywhere in the world. The watch was specifically marketed to the military and aviation sectors and, according to Breitling, has been used to rescue individuals including in 1997 when a reed boat was blown off course while sailing from Easter Island to Australia. Breitling Emergency Catalog (1985) The Breitling Emergency would go on to be favored by those who operated on the fringe of nonpermissive environments including several specialized aviation units, Blackwater personnel, and former SAS turned African mercenary Simon Mann. Today, the Breitling Emergency is still available at a massive 51mm diameter and complete with dual frequency distress beacons at 121.5 MHz and 406 MHz, both of which are monitored through the international Cospas-Sarsat system and based on a network of satellites in low-altitude earth orbit (LEOSAR). Breitling - The Unit Watch Pioneer Breitling Avenger Seawolf commissioned by Breitling SAS D Squadron in 2003/2004. We have covered modern “unit watches” extensively and much of what we see today implemented by Tudor, Bremont, IWC, and others was originally pioneered by Breitling in the 1990s and 2000s. This was a core aspect of Breitling's sketchiness, and the close relationship between Breitling and several elite units made it a prized possession for many operating at the tip of the spear. Originally focused on aviation squadron watches, Breitling branched out to Special Operations Forces, including US Army Delta Force and the British Special Air Service in the early 2000s. British SAS G Squadron Richard Williams wearing a custom 22 Special Air Service Breitling Avenger Seawolf in Iraq. (Photo Credit: Richard Williams) Breitling's customization program was not limited to the military or governments but extended to commercial entities. In 2010, Russian Oligarch Roman Abramovich commissioned 50 Breitling SuperOcean automatics with "Eclipse" on the dial, the name of one of his 533 ft super yachts, pretty sketchy if you ask me . . . (Photo Credit: Chiswick Auctions) Hollywood:   Breitling’s sketchiness also extends to the silver screen with several W.O.E. characters wearing the legendary tool watches in major Hollywood productions. Blood Diamond (2006) - Breitling Chrono Avenger In Blood Diamond, Danny Archer, a dreamy Rhodesian smuggler and ex-mercenary, embarks on a hair-raising adventure to find a large diamond amid the Sierra Leone Civil War. Leonardo DiCarprio's character wears a Breitling Chrono Avenger with a black dial and a solid titanium 44mm case on a brown calf leather strap. A Rhodesian mercenary turned diamond smuggler is the very definition of sketchy so this watch is on point. The movie takes place in 1999 when Breitling was at the height of its sketchiness and was a go-to tool for gray area operators and real mercenaries. Russian arms dealer Viktor Bout wearing a Breitling B-1 after his arrest in Thailand in a 2008 sting operation by the Drug Enforcement Administration. (Photo Credit: DEA) Thunderball (1965) - Breitling Top Time While Bond is known for Rolex and Omega, several other brands have graced the wrist of the world's most famous spy. In 1965’s Thunderball, the real OG Bond, Sean Connery, was outfitted with a Breitling Top Time that Q modified to include a Gieger counter to track down missing nuclear warheads… as sketchy as it gets.  Point Break (1991) - Breitling Navitimer Quartz As mentioned in a recent “Hollywood Watches of Espionage,” Breitling featured in Point Break on the wrist of bank robber/surf bro Bodhi, portrayed by the late Patrick Swayze. The Breitling Navitimer Quartz is shown in the scene leading up to a specific robbery where Bodhi ceremoniously declares: “The little hand says it’s time to rock and roll.” Very sketchy indeed. Breitling Of Today The past few years have seen massive changes for Breitling. In the early 2000s, the brand prospered in an era defined by massive case diameters and a masculine customer base. However, in many ways galvanized by the release of the Tudor Black Bay in 2012, the industry began to shift in favor of “vintage-inspired” styling, more attainable in-house calibers, and restrained dimensions.  "Arabic Breitling" -  Aviator 8 Etihad Limited Edition. Limited edition of 500 pieces and features stylized Arabic numerals on the dial, as is the norm with most Middle East editions. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Breitling was admittedly slow to catch up but has made impressive improvements in its direction and product offering since being acquired in 2017 and appointing industry legend Georges Kern as CEO. Some enthusiasts still take issue with some of Breitling's price points or styling, however, it’s clear the brand is moving in the right direction in 2024, jumping from its 2017 $950M acquisition price to a 2022 valuation of $4.5Bn. The brand’s recent acquisition of Universal Genève is another intriguing development. It’s unclear what Breitling will do with the enthusiast-favorite vintage name, but we’re excited to see where it goes. Breitling CEO Georges Kern (Photo Credit: WatchPro) Is Breitling Still Sketchy? The question then becomes, is the kinder gentler Breitling of today as sketchy as it once was, especially as the brand enjoys a broader appeal and newfound level of mass market success? Yes and no. The brand’s long-standing military unit watch program is still active but appears to have waned, leaving the door ajar for brands like Bremont and Tudor. Producing military-specific personalized watches is likely not a key driver of revenue, but it is a central aspect of what has made Breitling one of the watches of choice for sketchy dudes.  While we are supportive of these changes at Breitling, and the strategy is clearly working, we hope the brand will continue to be inspired by its roots producing tool watches for those that operate on the fringes of sketchiness. With rumors of a new incoming Aerospace, our fingers are crossed for a return to Breitling’s legendary levels of sketchiness. -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: CIA Officer’s Love Affair with the Arabic Seiko

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Watches And Wonders Releases For The W.O.E. Community

Watches And Wonders Releases For The W.O.E. Community

Last week was Watches and Wonders, a trade show in Switzerland where watch brands showcase their latest releases. Journalists, tastemakers, and watch enthusiasts flock to...

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Last week was Watches and Wonders, a trade show in Switzerland where watch brands showcase their latest releases. Journalists, tastemakers, and watch enthusiasts flock to Geneva to see and photograph new timepieces, meet with brand representatives, and drink no shortage of champagne and Negronis. Watches and Wonders is a masterclass in marketing, also known as the mass manipulation of consumers. We have previously written about covert influence in watch media (READ HERE) and this event is the Superbowl or, if you will, the Fashion Week. Propelled by the rise of digital media, what was once a straightforward industry trade show has been catapulted into the feeds of even the most basic enthusiast, with extensive coverage across all forms of social media, podcasts, and legacy watch publications.  Photo Credit: Watches and Wonders For weeks leading up to the event, the internet has been rife with “Watches and Wonders Predictions,” an organic marketing exercise that benefits both brands and content creators. The most influential tastemakers are invited to Switzerland as guests of the trade show, with hotels and other expenses covered either by the Watches and Wonders foundation or the brands. Lavish parties are thrown to showcase the watches but more importantly to woo the journalists, who are then expected to (objectively) cover the new watches, often simply regurgitating press releases with brand-approved language. Whether or not they are invited back next year is implied in part on their coverage of the event or the particular brand that sponsored their attendance. It’s brilliant.    Photo Credit: Watches and Wonders Don’t Hate The Player Or The Game To be clear, we don’t hate the players or the game. On the contrary, we admire the masterclass that is Watches and Wonders. It’s a fascinating exercise in human psychology, consumer behavior, and marketing. As enthusiasts, the releases are exciting, the speculation and leaks are admittedly fun, and the grand reveals offer the age-old intrigue of the unknown. While we normally don’t cover new releases, we want to highlight several watches that speak specifically to our community and our “Use Your Tools” ethos.  Photo Credit: Watches and Wonders We originally planned to cover 10-12 timepieces, but frankly struggled to identify more than a handful that met our criteria. The industry is trending towards high fashion and this seemed to be the year of dress watches and precious metals, which needless to say is not really within our wheelhouse. These are by no means endorsements, but here are a few that caught our eye. Rolex GMT-Master II Grey-Black Bezel Price: $10,900 (In Theory) A CIA Case Officer has been described as a “Ph.D. that can win in a bar fight”, and that fictional person would (traditionally) wear a Rolex GMT.  Whether the updated grey and black bezel on the newest GMT Master II is to your taste is up to you, but we would argue it gives the watch a modern look that is also more subtle than something like the legendary Pepsi bezel. For the traditionalists, the Pepsi is still available and was not discontinued as indicated by the rumor mill.  It’s an easy win and we like it. Cons: The days of a Case Officer or SpecOps operator walking into a boutique on R&R and walking out with a Rolex GMT are over. Given the astronomical secondary market prices (at times over double retail for certain references), it’s hard to say a new Rolex GMT is a true tool watch with a straight face. Modern Rolex models tend to be pretty shiny and this new GMT is unfortunately no exception. It can and will still be used as a tool by a select few, but the modern GMT Master II lacks much of its original tool watch feel. Also, good luck getting one at retail. Doxa Sub 200T Price: $1,550 - $1,590 For both the military and recreational diving communities, Doxa is a legendary name, having famously been worn by Dirk Pitt, Clive Cussler’s fictional undersea hero, and in the US Navy’s pioneering SEALAB experiments. Better known for their storied salvaging efforts, US Navy Divers also have been at the pointy end of the espionage spear, responsible for developing and executing a daring mission to tap Soviet undersea communication cables in the 1970s on Operation Ivy Bells. Jumping ahead to 2024, Doxa sneaked in just ahead of the Watches and Wonders releases, unveiling the Sub 200T about a week ahead of the big show. Providing a smaller alternative to the established Sub 300 and 300T, the 200T comes in with a 39mm diameter and more slender case while maintaining much of the Doxa Sub design language. Available in a staggering array of colors and matte or sunray dial finishes, the Sub 200T seems poised to provide a smaller-wearing alternative for those who have traditionally considered Doxa’s chunky cushion case to be a bit too much. Cons: Most Doxa Sub models wear considerably smaller than their stated diameter, meaning this 39mm Sub 200T might wear more like 36 or 37mm on the wrist, pretty small. Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT “Coke” Price: $4,400 - $4,600 While they may not have the historic caché offered by Rolex’s GMT Master models, Tudor’s GMT watches have come a long way since the release of the Black Bay GMT in 2018. However, from that 41mm wide by 15mm thick model’s inception, many were quick to call for a smaller and thinner option. But what most enthusiasts wanted was a Black Bay 58 GMT, and that’s exactly what we got in 2024. At this point, Tudor’s relationship with our community is well-established. Still producing unit watches for some of the world’s most elite military operators, Tudors of Espionage (T.O.E.) are very much a thing. That said, the new Black Bay 58 GMT feels like more of a vintage throwback than a modern practitioner's watch, but still offers its own play on the desirable “Coke” format along with the best set of dimensions thus far for a Tudor GMT, measuring 39mm wide and under 13mm thick. Cons: The new BB58 GMT relies heavily on “gilt” gold-tone markings that aren't for everyone. The faux rivets on the bracelet have to go and it’s really hard to understand why they use them on new designs. There is no utility to this feature and it crosses the line of homage-corny. The nicest thing we have heard about faux rivets is, “...they don’t bother me that much.” Bremont Terra Nova Price: $2,850 - $4,250 We are big fans of Bremont and we've previously covered the UK brand’s intriguing relationships with intel and military units around the globe (READ HERE). It would be intellectually dishonest to ignore the new Terra Nova collection of field watches “inspired by military pocket watches of the early 20th century”. That said, it’s hard to sugarcoat this one. To use a cricket metaphor, it was a swing and a miss. The rebranding fell flat with both enthusiasts and Bremont traditionalists.   Prior to the event, newly appointed Bremont CEO Davide Cerrato (formerly of Tudor, Montblanc, and Panerai) foreshadowed a pivot to a lower price point and we were genuinely excited about these releases. The strategy was sound but the implementation was flawed. The Terra Nova and the redesigned Bremont Supermarine are a stark departure from what makes Bremont loved by many, standing out as classy and refined aviation-inspired watches. Cons: The list is unfortunately long. The new logo, font, and overall design and manufacturing quality fall well short of expectations. To make matters worse, the price range places it squarely in competition with the likes of Tudor and many others. On the bright side, the brand appears to still offer the previous models (with original branding) and Special Projects appear unchanged. Understanding that a full pivot like this is bold, and takes a lot of time, effort, and money, we would love to see Bremont bounce back from this and return to its roots. Tudor Black Bay Monochrome Price: $4,225 - $4,550 We didn’t set out to profile two watches from the same brand, but Tudor came in with another solid (though predictable) win, not our fault. A follow-up to last year’s redesigned 41mm Black Bay Burgundy that added additional strap and bracelet options as well as METAS certification, the new Black Bay Monochrome makes one of Tudor’s single strongest arguments for a vintage-inspired sports watch to wear every day. Though we’ve often argued the Pelagos 39 is the modern Tudor-Sub, the Black Bay Monochrome is now right up there with a slimmer case design compared to previous iterations and more subtle looks than something like a ceramic Rolex Submariner. In our opinion, this is a major step up from the Black Bay 58, which we also love. Cons: If forced to nitpick a great watch, again enough with the faux rivets.  Fortunately, this watch is also available with a “Five-Link” (Jubilee) or an integrated rubber strap, both of which feel like better moves. Zenith DEFY Revival A3648 Price: $7,700 It’s not a name we talk about all the time in our shadowy corner of the watch world, but Zenith is a brand we respect and is also doing some very interesting things in 2024. Better known for its contributions to the world of chronographs, having unveiled one of the automatic chronographs in 1969 with the El Primero, modern Zenith balances a collection of up-to-date designs and heritage. This particular inclusion in this list is slightly less about being an ideal watch for Intel/Spec Ops and more about simply being a great new luxury tool watch. Completely overshadowed by the collection of chronographs, Zenith also produced several chunky yet capable dive watches in the late 1960s and 1970s including the rarely-seen Defy A3648. It’s not going to be for everyone, but the modern DEFY Revival A3648 is a near 1:1 of the original with a 37mm case and a very old-school feeling bracelet. With no less than 600 meters of water resistance, it’s also as capable a dive watch as you could ever want while offering a serious splash of orange on the bezel, dial, and hands that will speak to dive watch enthusiasts. Cons: It’s awesome they made this thing 37mm, but a lot of modern-day collectors might not be able to handle the lack of girth. Bright colors on watches are not for everyone (myself included), and a more subtle option might be cool to see in the future. Grand Seiko SBGJ277 Price: $6,800  Like Zenith, we seldom talk about Grand Seiko, instead concentrating on Seiko’s well-established and legendary historical associations with military special operations. With that in mind, Grand Seiko has operated as a separate brand for years now and provides some of the best watchmaking in its price category. The newly-released SBGJ277 leans into Grand Seiko’s history with high-beat mechanical calibers, in this case operating at 5 hz or 36,000 VPH. In addition, this new member of the brand’s Sport collection offers 100 meters of water resistance and a 55-hour power reserve, more than enough to suit the average Case Officer while differentiating from the established Rolex and Tudor crowds. Cons: While the finishing on this SBGJ277 is impressive for the dollar amount, the additional polished elements and textured dial both serve to create a more refined and therefore less utilitarian look. It’s not to say you couldn’t “Use Your Tools” with this watch but rather that it doesn’t look or feel the part as much as some others on this list. Again, we are not necessarily endorsing these watches, but each of them caught our eye and calls for a closer look. We understand that these watches are not cheap and if you’re interested in learning more about entry-level options that are well-suited to our community, check out “Best Watches Under $1,000 - Ask the Experts.” Next week we will resume our regular programming.  *sponsored by Rolex, Doxa, Tudor, Zenith, Bremont, and Grand Seiko (Just Kidding) -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: Remembering the Legacy of Billy Waugh Through His Watches

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Hollywood Watches of Espionage, Part II

Hollywood Watches of Espionage, Part II

Sketchy Surfers, Intelligence Officers, And A Dictator – Timepieces Add Depth To Characters While Entertaining Watch Nerds As we established in our first installment of...

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Sketchy Surfers, Intelligence Officers, And A Dictator – Timepieces Add Depth To Characters While Entertaining Watch Nerds As we established in our first installment of this series (READ HERE), watches play a significant role in film and television, particularly as it relates to the world of espionage. Watch enthusiasts can’t help but notice when a propmaster or costume designer has absolutely nailed the watch or in some cases, missed the mark entirely. Portrayals of watches on the wrists of characters representing the military and intelligence communities are often particularly challenging, with factors like paid product placement further complicating the issue. In the vast majority of films or TV shows, watches play little to no role in the overall plot, instead serving as a minor detail representing at times incredible attention to detail on behalf of the filmmakers. However, here and there, watches add something to a film as a whole, adding depth to a character or acting as a plot element. For intelligence officers and special operations, the tiniest details matter, and, if nothing else, watch spotting within the context of our community is an old-fashioned good time. In this piece, we’ll take a look at five additional examples of W.O.E. in Hollywood and provide our thoughts on the watch choices for a given character. Point Break - A Sketchy Breitling Navitimer Quartz (Pluton) Starting with one of history’s finest action films, Point Break is the improbable story of undercover FBI Agent Johnny Utah, played by Keanu Reeves, infiltrating a band of surfers with a penchant for bank robbery led by the charismatic Bodhi, portrayed by the late Patrick Swayze. While Bodhi is much too laid back and cool to wear a watch in much of the film, he does wear a Breitling Navitimer Quartz (also sometimes known as the Pluton) when it’s bank robbing time, even going so far as to say “little hand says it’s time to rock and roll” after a full-screen watch shot that we will attempt to recreate here. (Photo Credit: 20th Century Fox) It’s unclear whether Breitling’s early 90s marketing budget played a role in making the Navitimer Quartz Bodhi’s watch of choice, but it’s tough to argue with their decision-making process. Essentially the same watch as the Chronosport UDT, which was produced by Breitling and favored by Navy SEALs and other special operations forces of the day, the Navitimer Quartz provided 200 meters of water resistance and a slew of digital functions on top of its basic timekeeping abilities, exactly the kind of specs you need when you’re surfing in the morning and making tactical withdrawals in the afternoon. We don’t make the rules, sketchy dudes wear Breitling.  Jack Ryan - Hamilton Khaki Field Auto Chrono Inspired by Tom Clancy’s best-selling series of books, Jack Ryan stars John Krasinski as a CIA analyst turned special operator, almost single-handedly saving the world from certain doom at least once in each of the show’s four seasons. While any number of inexpensive digital watches from brands like G-Shock might have made even more sense given Ryan’s Global War On Terror Marine Corps background, the analyst of action opted for a Hamilton Khaki Field Auto Chrono Automatic for the first couple of seasons. Stemming from Hamilton’s Khaki collection, which is inspired by the brand’s history of producing field watches for military forces as far back as the First World War, the Khaki Field Auto Chrono opts for a tacti-cool all-black treatment from the PVD-coated stainless steel case to the hands and indices. Conceptually, an automatic chronograph with 100 meters of water resistance checks out for Ryan’s character, but we can’t help but wonder if the watch might be a little bit hard to read given the almost total lack of contrast. Overall, it’s not a terrible choice, and at just under $2,000 would be affordable for the presumed GS-13. Spy Game - Victorinox Swiss Army Officer’s 1884 In Spy Game, Robert Redford stars as Nathan Muir, a seasoned CIA Case Officer on the cusp of retirement tasked with freeing his former protégé Tom Bishop, portrayed by Brad Pitt, from imprisonment in China. Released in 2001, this film inspired a generation of post -9/11 Case Officers and is a relatively accurate (though Hollywoodized) portrayal of the business of intelligence. On Redford’s wrist throughout the film is a Victorinox Swiss Army Officer’s 1884. Victorinox is of course better known for its ubiquitous Swiss Army collection of knives and has also been a major producer of Swiss watches since at least the early 90s. While many watch snobs might turn up their noses at a brand like Victorinox, the watch makes perfect sense in this instance. Serving as the prototypical career C/O, Redford’s character is a gray man, blending in and avoiding auspicious clothing or luxury items that might solicit further questions about his background or occupation. As much as many within the CIA appreciate and use watches from luxury brands including Rolex, Tudor, or Breitling, certain circumstances require a more subtle approach. The straightforward white dial and stainless steel format of the Victorinox Swiss Army Officer’s 1884 does exactly that, providing reliable quartz timekeeping and the additional functionality provided by a secondary 24-hour scale without attracting the type of undue attention that can get you killed and, perhaps more importantly, prevent you from rescuing Brad Pitt.  The Dictator - Cartier Pasha  Revered for his seminal work Borat: Cultural Learnings of America for Make Benefit Glorious Nation of Kazakhstan, Sacha Baron Cohen’s The Dictator is the (true) story of General Aladeen, leader of oil-rich nation called Wadiya. After the assassination of yet another body double, Gen. Aladeen opts to travel to the relative safety of New York City with a Cartier Pasha on his wrist. So named for Thami El Glaoui, the Pasha of Marrakesh, the internet claims the Pasha was a special design dating back to the early 1930s and intended for the Pasha’s sporty lifestyle. Whether that’s true or not is another matter, but the story does lend itself to the inclusion of the modern Pasha, which was unveiled in 1985 and famously designed by Gerald Genta, in this film.  Still, despite the supposed history of being designed for a fabulously wealthy Middle Eastern governing figure, we can’t help but wonder whether something even more ridiculous might have been a better fit for General Aladeen’s character and lifestyle. Just to throw a few ideas out there, what about a diamond-encrusted Patek Philippe or even an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak? That said, the Pasha’s historical tie-in demonstrates great care on behalf of either Sacha Baron Cohen himself or perhaps a particularly astute wardrobe designer. The watch might even be the least ridiculous part of the entire film. Argo - Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea 116660 In Argo, based on the real story of CIA technical officer Tony Mendez, played by Ben Affleck, is tasked with extracting six Americans holed up with the Canadian ambassador in Tehran, Iran after militants stormed the US Embassy on November 4th, 1979, taking 66 American diplomats hostage. Disguised as a film producer scouting locations for a science fiction film in Tehran, Affleck’s character wears a Rolex, which would theoretically be right in keeping with his cover assuming the Rolex in question was period correct. No joy, however, as the Rolex worn by Affleck in Argo was a decidedly modern Sea-Dweller Deepsea reference 116660, a watch released by the Crown in 2008.  How this came to pass is anyone’s guess. In 2022, Hodinkee reported an urban legend that the prop department provided a replica of a period-correct Rolex Submariner for Affleck to wear, but the actor preferred a genuine Rolex. Any Rolex from the era, but perhaps especially the Submariner, would have made perfect sense. A posh Hollywood producer wearing a rugged luxury watch intended for diving for his adventurous location-scouting trip to Tehran? Hell yes. Instead, a modern 44mm Rolex theoretically designed for saturation diving time traveled to 1979 to assist Affleck on his personnel extraction adventure, once again proving that details matter in espionage as well as filmmaking.  If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: Bond: A Case for Omega

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W.O.E. Collaboration With Tactile Turn

W.O.E. Collaboration With Tactile Turn

Pen, Flashlight, Knife, Watch - The Essentials “If you didn’t write it down, it didn't happen” is a common saying in the intelligence business.  In...

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Pen, Flashlight, Knife, Watch - The Essentials “If you didn’t write it down, it didn't happen” is a common saying in the intelligence business.  In a digital era, there is something satisfying about staying old school, and a custom pen, built to last a lifetime, is a must. Custom Tactile Turn X W.O.E. Titanium Pen TENTATIVE RE-RELEASE DATE 20 AUGUST 2024 View Here For CIA Case Officers, a quality pen and 3x5 cards are essential aspects of everyday carry and they are still items I carry religiously to this day. Despite rapid advancements in note-taking devices, I still defer to a pen and paper regularly. As a part of our ongoing effort to produce the best possible custom tools, we set out to design a purpose-built writing instrument fit for our community. Enter the W.O.E. Custom Tactile Turn Bolt Action Pen. Milled from a solid block of titanium in the United States, our pen is lightweight and durable. For a premium feel, we opted for Tactile Turn’s Bolt Action construction, which extends or retracts the refill with one smooth, spring-loaded motion, more satisfying than the hollow click from your drugstore ten-pack of pens. Inspired by our love for PVD-coated watches, we PVD’d the inside of the bolt and the clip, adding a subtle “Tactile Turn X WOE” engraving on the clip’s underside. Most importantly, the bolt is operated by way of a unique watch-style crown with a spearhead engraving. Details matter. It is so often the little things that have the greatest impact. To be clear, this is by no means a “tactical pen”. Our titanium pen is a TSA-approved item primarily intended for writing, though we admit it may have other uses. We’ll leave it at that. Far from inexpensive perishable pens, our Bolt Action Pen is designed to last a lifetime and utilizes readily available Pilot G2 0.7mm refills. For the complete specifications, read HERE. Product Development At W.O.E. At Watches of Espionage, our product development model is to partner with true professionals – masters of their craft – to develop distinct and highly functional products that honor our community and our core belief that you should “use your tools.” In creating our ideal Everyday Carry (EDC) pen, we reached out to Tactile Turn because they are the best in the business at creating high-quality writing tools, hand-machined in Texas, right here in the United States. As a company, we seek to partner with US manufacturers and use our platform to promote their craftsmanship. Working with Tactile Turn has been a pleasure, and it is no surprise that there is a significant crossover between the watch and EDC communities. The good people at Tactile Turn are industry leaders for a reason, doing incredibly detailed and consistent work machined by hand. They are also true innovators and were able to prototype the watch-style crown to produce a unique product for our community. Further, they stand behind their work with a lifetime warranty for all of their products including our W.O.E. Bolt Action Pen. About Tactile Turn Tactile Turn was founded in 2012 by Will Hodges who happens to be a watch guy with Tudor, Sinn, and OMEGA in the collection. Frustrated by the disconnect between the things we buy and how they’re made, Will took things into his own hands, purchasing a WWII-era lathe and producing his first 1000 pens completely by hand. Things have taken off since then, and Tactile Turn now operates a serious 48,000-square-foot production facility in Dallas, Texas where a small team of machinists produce every single pen by hand. Will is still at the helm and still obsessed with producing quality pens in the United States that will probably outlive their owners. At W.O.E., we only work with suppliers who understand the "use your tools" ethos, and Tactile Turn is an excellent example. TENTATIVE RELEASE DATE 20 AUGUST 2024 View Here All photos are courtesy of Ed Jelley.

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The W.O.E. Tudor PVD Pelagos FXD

The W.O.E. Tudor PVD Pelagos FXD

Customizing my dream watch, the W.O.E. PVD Pelagos FXD When Tudor released the Black Pelagos FXD last year, I instantly knew I wanted one to...

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Customizing my dream watch, the W.O.E. PVD Pelagos FXD When Tudor released the Black Pelagos FXD last year, I instantly knew I wanted one to land in my collection.  Watches of Espionage is vehemently brand agnostic, but we have a special respect for Tudor, given the brand's seven-plus decade relationship with our community.  The FXD platform is the latest manifestation of this particular relationship. It’s the only modern “luxury” watch that was developed for not one, but two, modern SpecOps units. And I don’t mean a special edition made for a specific unit–the entire design, and every design decision, of the FXD stems from a particular use case in the SpecOps world.  That said, I already had the blue French “Commando Hubert” version. Was it prudent to want the same watch, just in black?   Of course. This whole passion is irrational anyway.  But if I was going to go for this watch, I wanted to do something different with it.  Over the past six months, I worked with several craftsmen to customize the FXD to make it mine, a poor man's “pièce unique”. The first thing we did was PVD’d the titanium fixed spring bar case resulting in a striking black-on-black look. This of course involves taking the whole case apart and PVDing each element, including the bezel. The PVD also has a mostly matte finish, so it matches the ceramic bezel insert well. Even though this was going to be mine, I wanted to maintain a standard that could have come from the factory. And since the caseback is sterile from the factory, we topped it off by engraving a W.O.E. insignia. Every watch has meaning, and this one commemorates the establishment of W.O.E. as a community, an accomplishment I never set out to achieve. The last step was designing a new handmade strap with our friends at Zulu Alpha, the W.O.E.-ZA 4.0 (available HERE).  That’s an overview of the watch; now I’ll get into the thought process behind each detail and my philosophy behind modifying this particular piece.  The W.O.E. FXD The W.O.E. FXD (if I can be vain enough to call it that) is a homage, a term that may conjure images of Seikos modified to look like Rolex – something that I am personally not a fan of.  But it’s an homage in the true sense of the word, specifically to the SpecOps who modified their Tudor MilSubs for operational use. One popular narrative is that the Orfina Porsche Design Chronograph I was the first PVD watch. However, SpecOps personnel modified their Swiss tool watches long before that.  Most notably, the Israeli Defense Force (IDF) Shayetet 13 (S-13) frogmen darkened their issued Tudor Submariner 7928 in the late 1960s, crudely painting them black to prevent glare and reflection of the steel cases.  For Special Operations personnel, and particularly those in a maritime environment, the glint of a watch during an operation could have lethal consequences.  The watches were tools, and they were modified to carry out their job effectively.  While it’s nearly impossible to trace the lineage of PVD watches for every brand, military applications likely had a direct impact on this development of all PVD watches. In fact, Rolex's only known “black” dive watch was a one-off blacked out version of the MilSub Ref. 5513 for the South African Special Forces.  While Rolex didn’t roll out PVD in a commercial capacity, its sister brand, Tudor, would go on to produce PVD watches in later years, whether directly influenced by the S-13 and other military units we can only speculate.  But heritage matters; it informs every decision a brand makes. PVD: StealthMaxx DLC Finish Recalling that our friend Cole Pennington PVD’d an Arabic Seiko for a Hodinkee Magazine article, I contacted Jack at International Watch Works, a family-owned business.  When asked about the feasibility of PVD’ing the titanium case, he said it was not a problem; he had in fact just completed PVD’ing a blue Marine Nationale FXD (which turned out to be for Tom Place, a stuntman searching for his long-lost Rolex at the bottom of a lake).  The process was relatively simple.  Jack disassembled the watch and coated every bit of titanium, leaving the dial assembly and ceramic bezel insert to the side.  “PVD” is an abbreviation for Physical Vapor Deposition. It’s a process, not necessarily a coating. A solid material is selected, in this case diamond like carbon (DLC), to coat a base metal or substrate surface. That material is vaporized and deposited on the base or substrate material, bonding molecularly with the base material. The PVD/DLC coating is so fine that the serial numbers and factory engravings on the caseback are still visible even after the coating. It’s only microns thick; it’s not thick enough to obscure the characteristics of the case. Having worn the watch daily and with a lot of time in the pool and ocean, I have noticed no wear or abrasion on the coating, although I wouldn’t necessarily view scars as a bad thing.  During our conversation, Jack informed me that he has PVD’d watches for SpecOps personnel for years, which comes as no surprise given his location in North Carolina. Engraving: Always Read the Caseback The W.O.E. insignia signifies a very deep meaning for many in our community, with influence from the spearhead worn by our predecessors in the WWII-era Office of Strategic Services (OSS) as well as modern day intel and SpecOps units.  Today, this insignia has become an important part of my life. It’s a source of pride that I don’t share with many.  The caseback engraving is covered by the strap and that’s just how I like it. It's not for you, it’s for me.  The deep diamond tip engraving through the PVD into the titanium creates a more substantial profile and a stark contrast to the black case. It’s bold. Looking at it, it’s easy to see how much meaning comes with it.  W.O.E. - Zulu Alpha 4.0 Strap As a “fixed” springbar case, the Pelagos FXD is often called a “strap monster”-- a term so overused it’s become meaningless. Yes, any 22mm strap will work on the watch, but it’s really about finding the right strap. With a customization like this, I wanted to ensure the strap was the perfect match–subtle enough not to overshadow the watch. So I reached out to our friends at UK-based and veteran owned Zulu Alpha Straps to create a unique design that honored our ethos as a community and tapped into the traditions of those who came before us.  The result is an understated olive allied green strap with a discreet W.O.E. spearhead-only insignia applied between the strap keepers, which is covered up when worn. Again, it’s not about showing the insignia. Like the caseback, it’s obscured when the watch is worn.  The development of this strap coincided with Zulu Alpha’s latest iteration of the “OTAN” strap and significant performance enhancements.  To promote longevity, the strap has a narrower tang, round holes, and a slightly shorter length at 30 cm.  The “patch” was adhered directly to the strap with a new technology developed by ZA, resulting in a OEM feel.  While we never planned to commercialize this version, we knew we would receive many requests, so this is dubbed, the W.O.E.-ZA 4.0. Photo Credit: Rob / @rw_m100 Dial Modification I have considered customizing the dial with a red W.O.E. at 6 o’clock.  That said, this would require a complete dial refinish.  While the watch is striking to those who know the FXD, when worn it's a more subtle customization as there are no visible insignias.  Discretion is a prized attribute in our field, if you know, you know is the way. Controversy of Watch Customization Customizing watches is a major point of contention in the collecting community, with many “purists” believing the watches should remain as they were originally designed.  Turning this upside-down, London-based George Bamford originally made a name for himself in the 2000s for customizing Rolex watches into unconventional designs, much to the chagrin of the Swiss luxury brands.   Bamford Watch modification (A Blog to Watch) However, times have changed, and Bamford has since been embraced by many watch houses and even has joint customizations programs with major brands including Zenith and Tag Heuer.  Further, “mod culture” as it’s known appears to have trickled into mainstream design and while the suits in Geneva would never admit it, the new Day-Date “emoji dial” is certainly reminiscent of a customized dial treatment than a traditional Rolex design.   Will we see a PVD FXD released from Tudor? Tudor’s playbook is simple.  It designs a watch, releases it to the masses and then iterates on that design with size, material, and color schemes.  This process has led some detractors to criticize the brand (Do we really need another Black Bay?)--but in the end, it works.  While selfishly I hope this remains one of the few “PVD FXDs,” it would be an easy win for Tudor to produce this design for the masses and I wouldn’t be surprised if we saw a version become available to the public in the coming years. A Few Thoughts To the uninitiated, this article may seem like a waste of time.  So, what, you painted your watch black?  Maybe. But it’s never just a watch.  When I look at this watch, I think of the people that made both it and W.O.E. a reality, and of all the times it’s been on my wrist.  No matter where this platform goes, it will always hold a special place because it is uniquely mine. There Are No Rules We are of the strong belief that there are no rules when it comes to timepieces.  If you want to polish your Rolex every few years to keep it looking shiny, do it.  If your dream is to modify your Patek to look like a Seiko, have fun.  If you want to put aftermarket diamonds on your AP to celebrate making it out of the trap, congratulations.   Don’t let conventional wisdom and outside pressure dictate how you enjoy this passion. Life’s too short to live in a box dictated by the watch industry suits or hype collectors pushing an agenda.  Have fun, use your tools, and don't take things too seriously.  -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our free weekly newsletter for further updates HERE.  Sincere appreciation to my dear friend and master of his craft James Rupley for capturing these pictures of the W.O.E. FXD and really bringing it to life for the community. Read Next: James Bond Should Wear a Rolex

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A Russian Smartwatch-Enabled Assassination & US Army Apple Watch Warning

A Russian Smartwatch-Enabled Assassination & US Army Apple Watch Warning

Ukrainian Intelligence Services used smartwatch data to assassinate a Russian naval commander during his morning jog. The US Army released a Counterintelligence warning to the...

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Ukrainian Intelligence Services used smartwatch data to assassinate a Russian naval commander during his morning jog. The US Army released a Counterintelligence warning to the US Military. Last week, the US Army issued a warning to Department of Defense (DOD) personnel on the counterintelligence (CI) risks of smartwatches with a social media campaign entitled, “What’s wrong with this picture?” with a photo of a soldier typing on a computer wearing an Apple Watch. It reads: “Smartwatches can transmit sensitive information. Don’t be an insider threat - Think before you use a smartwatch in the field or on deployment.” If you are a regular reader of W.O.E., this should come as no surprise. We have written about “CIA Officers and Apple Watches” (Read HERE) including the 2017 Strava fitness app heatmaps and threats from “Ubiquitous Technical Surveillance” or UTS—the collection and long-term storage of data to analyze and connect individuals with other people, activities, and organizations. The campaign appears to highlight hostile services leveraging smartwatches to access computer networks as well as the sensitivities of wearing them “in the field.” A former Russian submariner commander, Stanislav Rzhitsky was killed after assailants learned his movements from the Strava fitness app. Smartwatch Assassination As a real-world example of a hostile service leveraging smartwatch data to enable a kinetic operation, in June 2023, Russian submarine commander Stanislav Rzhitsky was shot to death while on an early morning jog in the southern Russian city of Krasnodar.  According to Russian state-owned media, the assailant reportedly used Strava fitness tracker data to carry out the attack. Surprisingly, Rzhitsky maintained a public profile with the fitness tracker Strava tied to his real name, using data from his GPS-enabled Garmin Fenix 6X smartwatch to catalog running and cycling routes which regularly passed through a park where an unknown assailant ultimately shot him. The profile even contained publicly accessible pictures of Rzhitsky before and after workouts and even his shoe type, providing a valuable resource to the assassin for positive identification. While Ukrainian services denied involvement in the hit, Ukrainian Defense Intelligence did make a suspiciously detailed statement over Telegram shortly after the assassination: “The submariner was jogging in the ’30th Anniversary of Victory’ park in Krasnodar. Around 6 a.m., he was shot seven times with a Makarov pistol. As a result of the gunshot wounds, Rzhitsky died on the spot, Due to heavy rain, the park was deserted, so there were no witnesses who could provide details or identify the attacker.” According to press reporting, Rzhitsky was followed on his morning run by an individual on a bike into the 30th Anniversary of Victory Park. He was killed in a secluded area of the park in the early morning hours. Rzhitsky’s Garmin Fenix smartwatch was recovered at the scene. The submarine Krasnodar—commanded by Rzhitsky—was allegedly responsible for a 2022 missile strike killing Ukrainian civilians. (Photo Credit: USNI) If the attack was orchestrated by Ukrainian intelligence, the motive likely stems from a missile attack on the city of Vinnytsia in July 2022, which killed 28 people, including three children. Ukrainian media indicated the missiles were fired by a submarine called the Krasnodar which Rzhitsky commanded at the time. Of course, we have to be skeptical of all narratives from the Russian and Ukrainian press given the covert influence in this conflict. (Photo Credit: Strava) US Military & Smartwatches In recent years, there has been an explosion of US uniformed personnel wearing Apple Watches and other “wearables,” with many servicemen purchasing them on the open market and wearing them while in uniform. The health and physical fitness benefits are legitimate and can result in a more effective warfighter. The DOD has even gone as far as to issue Garmin Fenix 6S and other smartwatches in an “effort to help future leaders be better, faster.” (Ironically, this is the same watch worn by the Russian commander.) But the risks are real and according to an Army Criminal Investigation Division (CID) bulletin from June 2023, service members across the military received unsolicited smartwatches in the mail, devices that auto-connected to wifi and other nearby devices. According to the report, the devices included malware that “accesses both voice and cameras, enabling actors to access conversations and accounts tied to smartwatches.” A report from Kaspersky, a cybersecurity company, suggests that the accelerometer data that tracks the movement of your wrist can be analyzed to determine passwords and credit card numbers. June 2023 Army CID Bulletin New Apple Watch Series 10 The timing of the more recent statement is fortuitous. Apple just unveiled the Apple Watch Series 10 the same week, on the 10th anniversary of the original Apple Watch. While we won't rehash the updates, suffice it to say the device still has a microphone, cellular and Bluetooth capabilities, and updated software to collect biometrics and track your every move.  Intelligence services around the globe were likely analyzing this release closely, in an effort to identify vulnerabilities for exploitation. According to publicly available data, an estimated 1.3 million Americans maintain a Top Secret security clearance and a total of 4.2 million people have access to classified information. Industry estimates suggest 10 to 20% of all Americans use a smartwatch or fitness tracker, which—if this percentage holds for members of the intelligence community and military—creates significant attack vectors to be exploited for pattern-of-life tracking and to attempt to access classified and Sensitive But Unclassified (SBU) networks. A Delta Force operator wearing an Apple Watch in Afghanistan in 2019. But I Am Not A Spy, Why Should I Care? Of course, most people will say, “I am not a super spy, why do I care if someone tracks me?” The 2023 Army CID report indicated the malware could access credit card information and potentially report that back to a home base to be exploited. Further, it doesn't matter if you are a Russian submarine commander or just a regular person. In 2022, Moriah Wilson, a 25-year-old elite cyclist, was tracked using Strava data and murdered in Texas by another woman who was involved with the same man as Wilson. After Wilson’s death, Strava reportedly added functionality obscuring start and end locations for fitness activities and further privacy-enhancing features, but the app still risks sharing significant information about a person’s location and routes that could be exploited by bad actors. What Can I Do About It? The simplest solution is to go analog. Don’t be a fool, use a real tool. Even the best state hackers (APTs) can’t hack a Seiko. Save the smartwatches for fitness-only activity and ensure your settings on the data are as restricted and “private” as possible. That said, we understand some W.O.E. professions require a GPS-enabled timepiece to effectively carry out specific tasks. In this case, we encourage you to explore some of the privacy-conscious models like Garmin that contain a “Stealth Mode” that (supposedly) disables tracking technology and a “kill switch” to delete all of your data. However, these functions are only as good as the provider, and Garmin has been the subject of several targeted attacks, including a 2020 ransomware hack where the company reportedly paid Russian cyber criminals $10 million to regain access to systems. If you work for an elite unit, make sure you pass this watch to your tech specialists to see if it really does what it claims to do. Given my background, I am always skeptical of technical solutions for technical problems… sometimes it's best to do things the old-fashioned way. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: CIA Officers and Apple Watches

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The Dalai Lama, Watches, & Espionage

The Dalai Lama, Watches, & Espionage

How A Spiritual Leader Became A Watch-Collecting Icon - It All Started With The Office Of Strategic Services We have discussed the operational role of...

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How A Spiritual Leader Became A Watch-Collecting Icon - It All Started With The Office Of Strategic Services We have discussed the operational role of timepieces in espionage and how they can be tools in the agent recruitment cycle—the transition of an individual from a target to a recruited asset (aka spy). Espionage is a human business and watches are transferable stores of value that have personal meaning, traits that make them effective tools of intelligence tradecraft. One of the earliest documented examples of this is with an unlikely figure, His Holiness the XIVth Dalai Lama.  While there is no indication that the Dalai Lama was a recruited asset of the OSS or CIA, he was provided a watch as a tool to build a relationship and gain influence.  OSS Officers Ilia Tolstoy and Brooke Dolan may have inadvertently spurred the Dalai Lama's love of watches. In 1943, Ilia Tolstoy and Brooke Dolan, both members of CIA’s predecessor, the Office of Strategic Services (OSS), presented the Dalai Lama with a Patek Philippe reference 658 on behalf of US President Franklin Delano Roosevelt. Reportedly, the purpose of the gift was to win the Dalai Lama’s support for a potential road through Tibet into China to assist the Chinese in fighting the Japanese. The watch clearly had meaning for the Dalai Lama and is something he still carries today. In contrast to the agent recruitment cycle, this operational gift was more of a rapport builder between “liaison,” a colloquial term to capture third-country intelligence services that work jointly with CIA. The Dalai Lama’s Patek Philippe reference 658, gifted to him by FDR via a pair of OSS officers during WWII. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) Tenzin Gyatso was born in 1935, ascending to his position as the Dalai Lama when he was only four years old. Having served as the Dalai Lama—the spiritual leader of Tibetan Buddhism—for 84 years, the 14th Dalai Lama has lived what would by any standard be called an interesting life, with a common thread being his continued advocacy for the welfare and autonomy of Tibetan citizens. Part of a global effort to undermine communism, the US Government reportedly had a close relationship with the Dalai Lama and his brothers since the days of the OSS, providing a whole lot of money in return for the Dalai Lama’s continued maintenance of at least the idea of Tibetan sovereignty. Despite the covert influence of the United States on the region, Tibet’s whole sovereignty thing didn’t work out, and the Dalai Lama was ultimately exiled by the Chinese government in 1959 to India, where he still lives today and continues to serve as a seminal figure for Buddhists around the world. In more recent years, the Dalai Lama has also become a person of interest for watch enthusiasts, boasting a small but intriguing collection including some of the most storied names in Swiss watchmaking. In this Dispatch, we’ll take a closer look at the Dalai Lama’s history with horology including a watch closely tied to the world of international espionage. You can’t make this stuff up. A Rare Patek Philippe Reference & The OSS The Dalai Lama with his Patek Philippe 658 at an event in Washington, DC in 2016. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) Presented in greater detail by Eric Wind over on Hodinkee, the abridged version of the story of the Dalai Lama receiving a rare Patek Philippe goes that a pair of Office of Strategic Services (OSS) Officers, Captain Brooke Dolan and Major Ilia Tolstoy, trekked across India, China, and Tibet on a diplomatic mission to meet the Dalai Lama and present him with gifts in an apparent effort to recognize Tibet’s autonomy within the region. OSS Officers Captain Brooke Dolan and Major Ilia Tolstoy during their 100-day trek to Lhasa, Tibet’s capital city. (Photo Credit: US National Archives) The impetus behind the mission was more complicated than simply meeting the Dalai Lama. The United States, embroiled in World War II, was also desperate to create an overland route connecting China and India to outfit the Chinese in their war against Japan. This path would have no choice but to pass through Tibet, and so Captain Brooke Dolan II, a soldier and explorer, and Major Ilya Tolstoy, a naturalist, explorer, and the grandson of Leo Tolstoy, ventured some 100 days by horseback through rugged terrain to Lhasa, Tibet’s remote capital. The Dalai Lama’s Patek Philippe Reference 658 is one of only 15 ever made. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) When the OSS officers finally reached the spiritual leader, among their gifts was a Patek Philippe reference 658, one of only 15 ever made, and including a perpetual calendar chronograph, a minute repeater, and a split-seconds chronograph. What led FDR to select such an expensive Swiss watch remains a mystery, but what is certain is that the overly complicated gold pocket watch was intended to win favor with the Dalai Lama and receive his blessing for a road through the region. It was a tool of diplomacy and espionage. While there are numerous examples of intelligence officers using watches to influence or recruit sources, FDR’s gift of a Patek Philippe to the Dalai Lama has to be among the most high profile. It’s unclear whether the Patek Philippe served to foster the Dalai Lama’s well-established love of horology, but it probably didn’t hurt. Even more surprisingly, the Dalai Lama has been seen carrying the watch as recently as 2016, which is a flex of the highest level. The Dalai Lama & The Crown His Holiness wearing a Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18038 on an elastic metal strap. In addition to his celebrated Patek Philippe, the Dalai Lama also has several Rolex models in his collection with a tendency to wear them on simple elastic metal bracelets like many other men in their 80s tended to do. One of His Holiness’s most worn Rolex models appears to be his Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18038, a watch we are also willing to go out on a limb and say was probably a gift. Given the oversized elasticated metal bracelet and the Dalai Lama’s slender wrists, the watch almost always sits inside his wrist, making the otherwise ostentatious look of the gold Rolex more subtle. It’s less often seen, but there is also photographic evidence to suggest the Dalai Lama owns at least one other Rolex, a two-tone Datejust on its signature Jubilee bracelet. In Tibetan Buddhism, letting go of material possessions and excess in a quest for spiritual enlightenment is a core tenet, making the Dalai Lama’s penchant for luxury watches from Switzerland a bit surprising (contradictory?). However, considering the high probability His Holiness was gifted the watches, we are prepared to let it slide. Further, the Dalai Lama’s interest in watches appears to be deeper than the trappings of European luxury as His Holiness is also known to tinker with and repair watches for personal enjoyment. It’s hard to know the specific reference without a better shot of the dial, but the Dalai Lama’s other Rolex appears to be a two-tone Datejust. His Holiness The Watchmaker Various unconfirmed sources claim the Dalai Lama owns as many as 15 watches, with many of them products of his love for mechanical tinkering and watchmaking in particular. Despite his interest, the Dalai Lama does not appear to be an expert, however. In his book, Ethics for the New Millennium, His Holiness says: “I have always enjoyed repairing watches. But I can remember a number of occasions as a boy when, completely losing my patience with those tiny, intricate parts, I picked up the mechanism and smashed it down on the table. Of course, later I felt very sorry and ashamed of my behavior—especially when, as on one occasion, I had to return the watch to its owner in a condition worse than it was before!" An as-yet unidentified Valjoux 7751-powered chronograph on the Dalai Lama’s wrist. In addition to the Patek Philippe and Rolex models we mentioned, the Dalai Lama has also been spotted wearing a couple of different chronographs that appear to be powered by the Valjoux 7751 and therefore could have come from a variety of different brands. It could be this is a caliber he enjoys tinkering with, but that is pure speculation. A Love Of Watches Spawned By The OSS? It would be a leap to argue that the gift of a rare Patek Philippe reference to the young Dalai Lama in 1943 galvanized his apparent lifelong love of watches, but we'd like to believe the OSS played a role in creating one of history's most unexpected watch enthusiasts. In any case, the tie-in between His Holiness, horology, and espionage is intriguing, showing once again that no matter where you go, whether we’re talking about an elite special operator, a politician, an intelligence officer, or the leader of Tibetan Buddhism, passion for timepieces runs deep and across virtually all demographic qualifiers. It’s unclear whether the Dalai Lama reads the Dispatch or subscribes to the “Use Your Tools” ethos, but his enthusiasm for watchmaking is real. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: CIA Analysis of Foreign Leaders’ Timepieces

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A Navy SEAL Turned Mercenary & A Rolex Submariner

A Navy SEAL Turned Mercenary & A Rolex Submariner

American Mercenary details the movie-like career of a SEAL Team Six assaulter turned gun for hire. The one constant throughout his career was a Rolex...

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American Mercenary details the movie-like career of a SEAL Team Six assaulter turned gun for hire. The one constant throughout his career was a Rolex Submariner on his wrist.   Belgrade, Serbia - 2017 Working as a private intelligence collector, former Navy SEAL Daniel Corbett found himself in an unenviable situation. While visiting a source to collect information on a terrorist financier, the door flew open, and in walked plain-clothes Serbian police officers, one of which pointed a shaking pistol at his head. Corbett would spend the next 18 months in a Serbian jail, charged with possession and trafficking of explosives and illegal firearms, and even accused in the press of attempting to assassinate the Serbian President. But this was not Corbett’s first rodeo, a former SEAL Team Six assaulter who later became a “mercenary,” Corbett’s career began at a young age.  He completed the arduous Basic Underwater Demolition/SEAL (BUD/S) selection process at 18 years old and screened for Naval Special Warfare’s Development Group (SEAL Team Six) at 23. Corbett conducted multiple combat deployments with DEVGRU’s famed Red Squadron and participated in the highly publicized rescue of Captain Phillips off the coast of Somalia in 2009. A gifted linguist, Corbett then departed the relative comfort of the Teams for the murky world of private military contracting, spending years conducting anti-piracy operations off the coast of Africa, mercenary train-advise-assist operations in Yemen, and collecting private intelligence for unspecified clients in unspecified locations. A Rolex Submariner Reference 16610 From the SEAL Teams to private military contracting, one constant throughout his career was the presence of a Rolex Submariner on his wrist. Corbett is a self-described non-materialist, but the timepiece has deep meaning and operational utility. Initially acquired as a nod to the old school Frogmen who were issued Tudor and Rolex Submariners, the role of the timepiece would evolve during Corbett’s time as a contractor, serving as a tool to build relationships and to potentially use for escape and evasion. When he was arrested in 2017, Corbett signed for his Rolex and other possessions before being held in a Serbian jail, awaiting his fate. The pro-Russian press reported he was sent to Serbia to assassinate Serbian President Aleksandar Vucic, a convenient narrative in an election year.  Remarkably, Corbett’s Submariner was returned to him when his case was unceremoniously dismissed. Corbett in Korean language school. Mercenary vs Contractor The term “mercenary” is overused to the point it’s almost meaningless.  Generally agreed to describe “a professional soldier hired to serve in a foreign army,” mercenary is used by commentators to degrade private military contractors and by contractors to inflate their role as… well, just contractors. That said, mercenaries certainly exist and play a significant role in the world of gray zone conflict. While Corbett’s anti-piracy work is more accurately described as that of a contractor, the transition to Yemen and intelligence collection in Serbia arguably places him in the murky world of true mercenary work on behalf of a foreign government or non-state entity. Corbett details his experience as both a contractor and mercenary in the newly released book, American Mercenary, The Riveting, High-Risk World of an Elite SEAL Team Operator Turned Hired Gun. We spoke with Corbett to learn more about his career and the role of the Rolex Submariner. San Diego, California - May 2007 After returning from a deployment to the Philippines with SEAL Team 5, Corbett attended a West Coast SEAL Reunion along with some older frogmen, many of whom were wearing their issued Tudor and Rolex Submariners. Corbett wasn’t a “watch guy” and previously had no idea about the SEAL-Rolex connection. He was enamored with the timepiece and the subtle but important meaning it had for his community. In our conversation, Corbett recalled, “I have always liked the culture of a symbol or object that if you are a part of that group, you know.” Like the patches he would later wear at SEAL Team Six, Submariner dive watches were part of the culture of his tribe. When shown the beat-up Subs on the wrists of veteran frogmen, the young SEAL thought to himself, “That’s fucking cool.” He needed one of his own. Shortly thereafter, Corbett visited the Fourtane Rolex Boutique at Fashion Valley Mall in San Diego. Walking in wearing board shorts and flip-flops, the sales associate skeptically agreed to let him try on a pre-ceramic Rolex Submariner reference 16610. When he held the Rolex, he quickly said “I am leaving the store today with this,” producing his Navy Federal Debit Card, flush with cash saved up from his last deployment. Green Team & SEAL Team Six Shortly after acquiring the Submariner, Corbett was invited to attend “Green Team,” Naval Special Warfare’s selection course for SEAL Team Six. While he doesn't recall wearing the Submariner during selection, he remarked that he rarely took it off for a simple reason—he hated winding it. The watch was an extension of himself and a part of his persona. After passing selection and arriving at Red Squadron, his eyes were opened to the broader world of watches. In the “regular” SEAL Teams, Corbett rarely encountered other Team Guys with high-end timepieces but at DEVGRU, watches were deeply ingrained in the unit’s culture. Corbett remembered, “I started seeing guys with Explorers, Pepsi GMTs, Submariners, and of course Panerais at Red Squadron. I started actually learning about watches, and there was a strong watch culture at the command.” Corbett explained that most of these timepieces were reserved for home or training, but others did wear them on operations. It was at this point that Corbett met fellow Red Squadron assaulter and dog handler, Will Chesney, who wore a Rolex Submariner on the Usama Bin Laden raid (read HERE). Afghanistan - 2009 For Corbett, the Rolex rarely left his wrist. During a 2009 vehicle interdiction operation in Afghanistan, a piece of shrapnel damaged the crystal after he shot a suspected suicide bomber at close range, causing the militant to drop a primed grenade. Let that sink in for a moment. In the midst of combat, Corbett used the green glow of his night vision goggles to check his Rolex, recognizing a deep scratch on the crystal. He was pissed, and he would have rather the shrapnel go into his arm instead of his sole prized possession. When he returned from deployment, he had the crystal replaced in Virginia Beach.   Maersk Alabama - Indian Ocean - April 2009 On April 8th, 2009, four Somali pirates hijacked the US-flagged Maersk Alabama off the coast of Somalia, eventually taking Captain Richard Phillips hostage on the ship’s lifeboat. Corbett’s squadron was activated as a part of a rescue operation, jumping out of planes into the ocean before positioning themselves on the USS Bainbridge. Corbett’s Submariner also made the trip. While gearing up for the combat jump, another SEAL jokingly remarked, “You must be single!”, a comment that implied only a single SEAL would bring a Rolex on a combat jump. Corbett thought to himself that it was pretty cool he was wearing his Rolex on a combat jump into the Indian Ocean, but it wasn’t a conscious decision, he simply wore the watch everywhere. Within 4 days of the hijacking, snipers in Corbett’s squadron shot and killed the three Somali pirates, rescuing Captain Phillips and inspiring the 2013 film of the same name. SEAL wearing a Rolex Submariner during aerial training op out of the back of a MH-60S Sea Hawk helicopter deployed aboard the aircraft carrier USS George H.W. Bush, Aug 2011. (Photo Credit: Department of Defense) American Mercenary After a falling out with members of his command, Corbett made the difficult decision to leave SEAL Team Six and return to NSW, spending two years instructing junior SEALs in Close Quarters Combat, a skill set in which Corbett excelled. But he missed the action and after a chance encounter with a former SEAL Team guy, he was recruited into the gray world of private military contracting, initially conducting anti-piracy operations off the coast of Somalia, an assignment he found relatively mundane.   Aden, Yemen - 2016 After returning to reserve SEAL Team 17 and completing sniper school, Corbett was offered another contract with Trident Group, initially working in Abu Dhabi training an Emirati Special Unit before deploying with them to a base in Yemen. At this point, Corbet arguably transitioned from contractor to mercenary, working for a foreign government conducting counterterrorism operations jointly with a third country, the United Arab Emirates partner force.   Tradecraft - Cigarettes, Cash, & A Rolex Corbett completed intelligence training in the Navy, but his new calling required an adaptation in mindset —a transition from a member of an elite unit with all the resources and protection of the US government to a contractor operating as a singleton with no diplomatic protection. An early mentor explained the benefit of wearing a Rolex in nonpermissive environments as a potential bargaining chip and a store of value. It was a principle that Corbett summed up as “Marlboro Reds, Cash, and a Rolex.”  If stuck at a checkpoint, he would initially offer a pack of cigarettes to smooth things over. If that didn't work, then cash. The Rolex was a last resort, but something he was willing to give up if his life were on the line.  Describing this mindset, Corbett stated matter-of-factly: “My Rolex is my currency.”    Belgrade, Serbia - 2017 In 2017, Corbett agreed to travel to Serbia as a singleton to collect information on a suspected terrorist financier for later use as blackmail. Corbet focused on “wiring the AOR,” building relationships with individuals close to the target. He developed a network of individuals in Belgrade, many of which had questionable associations. In this case, Corbett’s Rolex served as a tool to establish credibility and build relationships. Many of the social brokers he developed had access to significant funds and displayed their wealth through timepieces. Spending his nights at bars and clubs, the Rolex gave him a basic form of legitimacy and assisted in his relationship-building efforts. Corbett explained, “I could not have established legitimacy wearing a Casio, the Rolex was just enough to give me legitimacy when others wore AP (Audemars Piguet)” and other luxury watches. The Rolex was a tool. (Photo Credit: Buzzfeed) The operation was short-lived. Corbett’s 2017 arrest launched him on another mission, to gain his freedom from charges for crimes he claims he never committed. Corbett spent the next 18 months in jail, facing a 12-year sentence for trumped-up charges. The police seized Corbett’s few belongings including his cellphone, passport, Rolex, and cuff links, all of which he signed for. He was placed in a cell with a state-sponsored assassin, drug addicts, and various other individuals with questionable backgrounds. Without his Rolex, Corbett felt naked, experiencing a phenomenon over the first few months of his imprisonment that he called “phantom Rolex,” often shaking his wrist expecting to feel the reassuring weight of the watch that never came. Local Tabloid: “SEAL is ready to settle. To discover whom I came to kill. Just save my head” For months Corbett had little insight into his fate, with periodic court visits separated by months with limited contact with the outside world. In July 2018, his lawyer was killed in a gang-style shooting, something that Corbett insists was unrelated to his case. Throughout his confinement, he was confident that the government had no case but concerned that he was caught up in inescapable political intrigue. Fully prepared to spend 12 years in jail, Corbett developed friendships with many of the inmates.  Corbett leaving the courthouse post-trial. On June 19th, 2019, Corbett was acquitted of all charges and unceremoniously told to leave the country. He returned to the jail to get his belongings and during out-processing, he was handed a zip-lock bag with his passport and—unbelievably—his Rolex Submariner. He was skeptical that it may have been replaced with a fake but was able to confirm it was indeed his Rolex, recognizing the scratches from over a decade of wear. He immediately slipped the watch back on his wrist and after a short stop at the Customs Police Station was free to leave. Falling back on his network of contacts, he spent a night in a hotel owned by the Hells Angels and left the country the next day. Arizona - 2024 After being released from prison, Corbett returned to the US without fanfare but with an extensive list of bills and expenses from being off the grid for 18 months. Corbett quickly returned to contracting, taking an unspecified gig in South America (he refused to elaborate). The Rolex remains one of his sole prized possessions and remains on his wrist not only as a tool but also as a reminder of his incredible Hollywood-like experiences to date.  American Mercenary Corbett has channeled his experience into instructing weapons and tactics for the Sentient Shooting Group. After much consideration, Corbett decided to document his experiences in the newly released book, American Mercenary, The Riveting, High-Risk World of an Elite SEAL Team Operator Turned Hired Gun. While we like to make fun of SEALs writing books as much as the next guy, Corbett’s story is not another SEAL book. American Mercenary provides a first-hand look into the murky world of Private Military Contracting, private intelligence collection, and mercenaries. Whatever is next for Corbett, we can be confident his Rolex Submariner will be on his wrist. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Trading a Rolex to Get out of a Sticky Situation - Myth or Reality?

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The Watches of Hamas, ISIS, & the Taliban

The Watches of Hamas, ISIS, & the Taliban

Is an Obscure Islamic Digital Watch The New Choice Of Terrorists & Non-State Actors? We once called the Casio F91W the “Preferred Watch Of Terrorists”...

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Is an Obscure Islamic Digital Watch The New Choice Of Terrorists & Non-State Actors? We once called the Casio F91W the “Preferred Watch Of Terrorists” based largely on its associations with Usama bin Laden who was often photographed wearing the attainable Japanese digital watch before his impromptu meeting with SEAL Team Six in 2011. However, recent photographs of leaders of prominent terrorist organizations may indicate a changing tide in the arena of tool watches of terror. The watches are produced by a brand called Al-Fajr, which is based in Saudi Arabia and known for its collection of what it calls “Islamic” watches and clocks that have functions specific to Islam including prayer time alarms and the ability to determine Qibla direction. We have written extensively about politicians and world leaders using timepieces as subtle communicative objects, and terrorist leaders are no different. The price is modest, ranging from sub-$100 to $300, marking an affordable option for the supposed pious individuals, many of which have access to extensive sums of money. Siraj Haqqani, seen here wearing an Al-Fajr watch, is the Taliban’s Interior Minister in Afghanistan’s post-2021 government. While the associations are likely unintended, the brand’s roots and Islamic functions have made the brand the new watch of choice for several leaders of prominent terror organizations including but not limited to Hamas, the Islamic State, and the Taliban. *To be very clear, this article is not a condemnation of Al-Fajr or Islam, just an observation of the tools worn by those at the tip of the (terrorism) spear.  Also, coverage does not equal endorsement, each of these groups is designated as a Foreign Terrorist Organization (FTO) by the US Department of State. Hamas Assassinated Hamas leader Ismail Haniyeh wearing an intriguing digital Al-Fajr Islamic watch. The impetus for this article stems from the events of July 31st, 2024, when the political leader of Hamas, Ismail Haniyeh, was assassinated in the Iranian capital of Tehran. In recent photographs preceding his assassination, which was reportedly carried out by Israeli assets who placed an explosive device in a guesthouse in which he was supposed to stay, Haniyeh wore an Al-Fajr Islamic watch, marking one of our first interactions with the brand. As with all politicians or world leaders, it is safe to assume this Islam-specific watch was also worn to convey a message, one that is not exclusive to the departed Hamas leader. Read about watches worn in the Israel-Palestine conflict HERE. ISIS ISIS Emir Abu Bakr al-Baghdadi wearing an Al-Fajr watch in 2014. Former Islamic State Emir Abu Bakr al-Baghdadi made one of his few public appearances in 2014 when he delivered a sermon at the Great Mosque of al-Nuri in Mosul, Iraq. Press reporting was quick to note the steel watch on his right hand, speculating that it was potentially an expensive Rolex or Omega “Seafarer.” (Of note, there is no Omega “Seafarer”.) This would have been notable in itself; however, it appears the watch is another example of an Al-Fajr Islamic watch being worn by a prominent terrorist. Further, he was also wearing the watch on his right hand, which some believe is in line with Islamic tradition. ISIS maintained a sophisticated PR and media wing that could rival any nation-state, so it stands to reason that significant thought was put into al-Baghdadi’s watch before this recording of one of his few public appearances, but of course, this is simply speculation. Taliban Mullah Yaqoob, the Taliban’s Defense Minster, photographed in 2024 wearing a general’s military uniform and a gold-tone Al-Fajr Islamic watch. Anointed the Taliban’s Defense Minister in the wake of the US withdrawal from Afghanistan in 2021, Mullah Yaqoob was recently photographed wearing a military uniform complete with the rank of general and another, slightly different watch from Al-Fajr with a gold-tone case. As was the case for Ismail Haniyeh, choosing a watch produced by a brand based in the Middle East with Islam-centric functionality serves two-fold, first acting as a legitimate tool for a practitioner of Islam and second as an element of propaganda intended to showcase the ingenuity and technical manufacturing capabilities of the broader Islamic world. When A Watch Is More Than Just A Watch As we’ve often discussed with political leaders and other globally impactful individuals, a watch often serves as far more than its core timekeeping functionality may suggest, instead acting as a symbol of power, ingenuity, and/or unity within certain communities. For leaders of terrorist organizations to wear watches designed with Islam in mind especially when in the public eye demonstrates an awareness of the importance of media, propaganda, and influence, once again demonstrating that it’s never just a watch. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: CIA Analysis of Foreign Leaders’ Timepieces *Featured Image Credit: Claire Harbage/NPR

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Istanbul: Shopping For Vintage Watches, Spy Cameras, & Cold War Artifacts

Istanbul: Shopping For Vintage Watches, Spy Cameras, & Cold War Artifacts

Istanbul is one of the espionage capitals of the world, so it’s no surprise you can find spy artifacts for sale in the world's most...

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Istanbul is one of the espionage capitals of the world, so it’s no surprise you can find spy artifacts for sale in the world's most famous bazaar. It’s difficult to write about Istanbul without falling into cliches, but there is a palpable romantic mystique and energy in the city on the Bosphorus. This is especially true in the Grand Bazaar where culture, both genuine and contrived, is on full display. That said, when I visit covered markets in the Middle East, rarely am I buying, maybe a trinket to bring back to the kids, but that’s it. Aren’t these just overpriced shops geared towards tourists? But this trip was different, I spent hours exploring the deepest corners of the Grand Bazaar and discovered a unique vintage Tudor Oyster Prince, two Minox “spy” Cameras, and a Cold War era Protona Minifon watch, which contains a microphone to surreptitiously record conversations. Istanbul, July 2024 Earlier this month, I visited the Grand Bazaar on a mission to acquire a “super-clone” counterfeit Rolex, the subject of a previous Dispatch (read HERE). Walking through the vast covered market, a local friend could tell I had the “been here, done this” look and offered to show me the Antique Market, situated in the hall of Cevahir Bedestan. What I found was a series of stores with vintage collectibles, real watches, and a surprising amount of military and intelligence memorabilia—all things I like. The Old Bazaar is by no means a hidden secret, but in an area stretching 64 streets and over 4,000 stalls, it’s not exactly a place you stumble on. I visited the Bazaar numerous times over 20 years and never saw it. It’s a far cry from the more trinket-focused main avenues most tourists pass through. Istanbul - A City Of Espionage Istanbul is a remarkable tourist destination, complete with rich culture, tasty cuisine, and historical sites from centuries of different ruling empires. But, below the surface of the 15-17 million tourists visiting the city each year are more sinister travelers: spies, assassins, and individuals who traffic in arms and illicit antiquities. “If the Earth were a single state, Istanbul would be its capital.” – attributed to Napoleon Bonaparte For the same reasons this quote rings true, the city formerly known as Constantinople could also be described as the espionage capital of the world. Strategically located at the intersection of Asia and Europe, Istanbul is a short flight from London, Moscow, and Tehran. Turkey borders many hotspots including Iraq, Syria, and Iran, and is in direct proximity to the conflicts in Ukraine and Israel. While Ankara is the capital, many nations, including the US, maintain robust diplomatic missions (i.e. embassies and consulates) along the Bosphorus. Embassies and consulates mean spies. A History Lesson You can’t mention espionage and Istanbul without discussing James Bond. In From Russia with Love, 007 works to retrieve a Soviet cipher machine from Tatiana Romanova, and in Skyfall, Daniel Craig’s Bond conducts a high-speed chase through the Grand Bazaar. The backdrop of Istanbul makes for an exciting setting, but this connection is rooted in real espionage. Ian Fleming himself was a real intelligence officer and reportedly traveled to Istanbul in 1955 to attend an Interpol conference as a member of the Scotland Yard delegation. More recent examples of Istanbul serving as the front lines for the Great Game are numerous, and many of them have ended up on the front pages of newspapers. This past year Turkey arrested a network of individuals with reported ties to Mossad who were tasked with collecting information on Palestinians in Turkey. In 2018, Saudi intelligence officers murdered a critic of the Kingdom Jamal Khashoggi in the Saudi consulate in Istanbul. Iranians have gotten in on the action, with a MOIS assassination of former Iranian cybersecurity official turned regime critic Mas’ud Vardanjani in 2019. These are just the publicly available incidents. MQ-1B Predator from the 414th Expeditionary Reconnaissance Squadron 2012, at Incirlik Air Base, Turkey (DOD) The United States In Turkey The United States maintains a significant overt security presence in the country. According to Wikipedia, Incirlik Air Base Air Base houses over 1,400 US DOD personnel, 39th Air Base Wing (39 ABW), and "up to'' 50 B61 nuclear bombs, ie tactical nuclear weapons. According to press reporting, Turkey was used as a base for the “Syrian Train and Equip Program” that supported Syrian opposition forces, a program acknowledged by former President Barack Obama. Turkey was a part of the F-35 joint strike fighter program until it was removed in 2020 after the acceptance of the S-400 Russian-made air defense system. “The Great Game” is often used to describe the intelligence war fought between nation-states and using this analogy, Istanbul is the playing field. Turkey itself maintains a robust intelligence service, MIT/TNIO, that is considered on par with many Western services. ISIS member looting artifacts and heritage sites in Syria/Iraq, 2015. Illegal Antiquities Trade In 1983, Turkey passed a law prohibiting the trade and export of antiquities, but that hasn’t prevented the country from becoming a hub for illicit antiquities trade, most notably artifacts looted and sold by the Islamic State during the caliphate in Iraq and Syria in the 2010s. Far from the tourist shops in Istanbul, the southern city of Gaziantep is widely understood as the hub for this activity, the initial sale point before entering the wider antiquities market. All this to say, it’s no surprise that one can find interesting and highly collectible espionage artifacts in Istanbul.   Spy Gear & Watches - Shopping In Istanbul Tudor Oyster Prince - Onder Vintage Watches - Stall No. 172 Walking into the Old Bazaar, my first stop was one of the few (legitimate) watch stores. In contrast to the fancy boutiques north of the old town, the windows are lined with hundreds of vintage timepieces, everything from Rolex and Omega to Doxa and Hamilton. For the most part, the vintage watches are “real” although many of them had significant replacement parts and refinished dials, likely a product of shotty service vs an attempt to deceive the buyer. Several stores had Arabic-branded dials, but without clear documentation or provenance, a purchase would be reckless.  I started sending pictures to my friend Ross Povey of Tudor Collector and he provided feedback on each watch in real time. Many were a hard pass due to condition, but then I came across a vintage mid-1970s Tudor Prince Oysterdate with an integrated bracelet and a two-tone dial and chapter ring. There was something about the watch that spoke to me because it wasn’t within my wheelhouse. Yes, I love Tudors of Espionage (T.O.E.s), but that is generally synonymous with tool watches. The dainty 38mm dress watch with an integrated bracelet just isn’t typically my style.   Mid-1970s Tudor Oyster Prince The condition was mediocre, with a bent bracelet link, but the price was right, about 1/3rd of the price in the UK according to Ross. The idea of spontaneously buying a watch, in one of the world's oldest bazaars was too good to pass up. It wasn’t without risk, but it was a risk worth taking.   The first rule of negotiating at a bazaar is don't be thirsty. I thanked the shop owners and left, but I returned a couple of hours later and bartered the price down a few hundred dollars, paying in crisp $100 bills for the final push. Minox Spy Cameras - Minyatür - Stall No. 240-241 Next Stop was Minyatür, the most interesting antique store I found during my time in Istanbul. The small store is packed wall to wall with vintage oddities, including a significant selection of militaria and nautical items. But what caught my attention were the Minox subminiature cameras in the window, labeled “Spy Cameras.” Developed in Germany in the late 1930s, the various evolutions of the Minox camera were used by several intelligence services, including the CIA and the KGB during the Cold War. The miniature size, 50+ image capacity, and high-resolution lens made it ideal for clandestine photography, most notably to photograph documents. Minox was issued to and used by several notable spies, including convicted KGB spy John A. Walker, Jr. I spoke with the owner, Haluk Yedek, a second-generation merchant. His father opened up the shop in 1962 with Haluk taking the reins in the mid-1990s. The cameras themselves were more expensive than what could be found online, and while Haluk was willing to come down some, it was clear we had reached his lowest point. I made a final cash offer on a Minox B from 1958-1969 and a Minox C from 1969-1978. The condition was overall good. It wasn’t quite new old stock, but not far off.  Haluk Yedek, a second-generation antique dealer. As I left the shop, I couldn't help but wonder about the path these items took over the past half-decade from Germany to Istanbul.  Unfortunately, Haluk couldn't recall where he purchased them, saying that most items came from locals and estate sales. Hanhart Protana “Spy Watch” - Takara Vintage Watches - Stall No. 191/191 The final stop was Takara Vintage Watches at stall No. 191/192. As I entered the market, I noticed a beat-up Protona Minifon “spy watch” in one window. Probably one of the greatest examples of “spy gear,” the “watch” contained a microphone to surreptitiously record conversations during the Cold War era. The case is perforated and a cord runs out of the 9 o’clock up the wearer's arm to the tape recorder. The “watch” itself does not keep time and the movement has been removed to make space for the microphone. The condition was poor, but I couldn't help myself.    Interestingly, a recent exhibition from Turkey’s National Intelligence Organization (MIT) displaying espionage artifacts revealed that MIT indeed used several wristwatches with recording devices for “various operations.”  Had the watch been issued by MIT and somehow ended up in the souk? Probably not, but it was too intoxicating to pass up. Another small stack of crisp hundred dollar bills left my hand to the all too happy merchant. It was a pleasure doing business.  Istanbul Airport Arriving at the Istanbul airport departure terminal, I was a little nervous. In my carry-on were 5 watches (one with a microphone embedded) and two spy cameras. While not prohibited items, it would be awkward to explain during secondary customs or security questioning. “I am a former CIA Case Officer and I run an online journal about watches and espionage” would likely raise some eyebrows. Further, I knew that the Turkish intelligence services were well-respected and had capabilities that matched that of our peer adversaries (Russia and China). While I am generally not concerned about security while traveling, I did ask several friends for contacts in the US Embassy “just in case.” To my relief, the customs process was uneventful and the flight to London was a breeze. Richmond, Virginia - July 2024 Back home, the Minox cameras have been added to the shelf in my office and sit next to other oddities collected over decades of world travel. As I write this, the Tudor Oyster Prince taps on my laptop, keeping perfect time. These items are talismans, mementos of my time in Istanbul, and physical representations of the people I met and the experiences I had. Their value is not monetary but derived from the human element, the true source of intrigue behind timepieces, at least for me. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.  READ NEXT: The Real Spy Gadget Watches of the CIA, KGB, MIT and German Intelligence *This article has been reviewed by the CIA's Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

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A Second Seiko 6139 Chronograph In Outer Space

A Second Seiko 6139 Chronograph In Outer Space

The Watch Journey Of A Vietnam Fighter Pilot & Astronaut  by Nick Ferrell NASA Astronaut and US Air Force Colonel Richard Covey recalls the first...

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The Watch Journey Of A Vietnam Fighter Pilot & Astronaut  by Nick Ferrell NASA Astronaut and US Air Force Colonel Richard Covey recalls the first time he glimpsed the sunrise over the curvature of the Earth from 150 miles up in space, “I thought two things: First, ‘Holy Cow!’ This was followed by wonder at the thin protective film of the Earth’s atmosphere, the only thing differentiating it from millions of lifeless rocks floating throughout the universe.” On Covey’s wrist was not his NASA-issued Omega Speedmaster Professional, but a 1970s Seiko 6139 chronograph, serving as the second now-confirmed instance of one of the world’s first automatic chronographs being used as a tool by NASA astronauts in space. Colonel Covey during the September 1985 Discovery Space Shuttle STS-51 mission with a 1971 Seiko 6139-6002 ”Cevert” on his right wrist and a 1980s Seiko A289-6019 on his left. (Photo Credit: NASA) Until recently, the legendary “Pogue” 6139 worn by Colonel William Pogue on 1973’s Skylab 4 was considered the only documented case of a 6139 in space. That is until I came across a photo of Colonel Covey during a space mission with what appeared to be a Seiko 6139 on one wrist with another then-unidentified watch on the other. Intrigued, I started my research. After some OSINT sleuthing and outreach, the Colonel himself agreed to speak with me. The Air Force, Becoming A Pilot, & Air Combat In Vietnam Covey’s path to becoming a NASA astronaut began in 1964 after attending the United States Air Force Academy (USAFA) and graduating with a degree in engineering. On his wrist upon arrival was cutting-edge watch tech for the day, an electronic Accutron 214 gifted by his family for high school graduation. Fascinated by all things rocketry, Covey was fortunate to find an Academy mentor to guide him toward his ultimate goal of flying in space as an astronaut. Colonel Richard Covey’s Accutron 214 Electric Watch (Photo Credit: Colonel Covey) In 1971, after graduating from the competitive USAFA-Purdue Aeronautics and Astronautics M.S. program as well as 18 months of jet pilot training in the F-100 Super Sabre supersonic fighter and A-37B Dragonfly subsonic light attack aircraft, Covey received orders to the Air Force’s 8th Special Operations Squadron (8th SOS). Following the Tet Offensive, the conflict in Vietnam continued to escalate. Covey knew he would be going to war. USAF A-37 Dragonfly, aka “Super Tweet” subsonic light attack jet (Photo Credit: Ken Hammond) After arriving at Bien Hoa AFB in South Vietnam, Covey primarily flew A-37B close-air support (CAS) sorties in support of the Cambodian Government against Khmer Rouge forces operating on the Ho Chi Minh trail. During his first tour, Covey purchased a Seiko 6139, the first automatic chronograph released only two years prior in 1969 alongside other pioneering automatic chronographs from brands like Heuer, Breitling, and Hamilton.  A Seiko 6139 “Cevert” similar to the one Covey purchased at a PX during his first deployment to Vietnam. (Photo Credit: DC Vintage Watches) When asked why he selected the watch — a blue-dialed Seiko 6139-6002 “Cevert” — he noted it was, “...an oversized watch that made it not only functional, but very distinctive.” He labeled the 6139 a go-to among fellow combat pilots during both Vietnam tours, because “It was wholly up to the pilots to pick what watches best served them.”  Covey, front row center wearing his 1971 Seiko 6139-6002 chronograph, poses with his 8th Special Operations Squadron, Bien Hoa Air Force Base, South Vietnam, 1971 (Photo Credit: Colonel Richard Covey) Also issued to the Japan Air Self-Defense Force in the 1970s, the 6139’s appeal wasn’t limited to military pilots, finding favor with French auto racing legend François Cevert (the source of the blue-dialed 6139’s “Cevert” nickname), Tetsu Ikuzawa, one of Japan’s most successful racing drivers, and even Pink Floyd drummer Nick Mason.  A 1972 Seiko 6139-6002 chronograph and a Japanese Air Self-Defense Force-issued 1973 Seiko 6139-7012, w/official JASDF engravings on case back, alongside a NASA STS-26 flight patch (Photo Credit: DC Vintage Watches) In 1973, Covey arrived in Vietnam for his second deployment, this time with the storied 74th Tactical Fighter Squadron, flying CAS missions with the A-7D light attack jet. The Colonel noted this mission — which involved operating outside of Vietnam against Soviet and Chinese-supported allies in support of friendly governments — was held close to the chest and pilots were ordered not to speak about their missions.  USAAF A-7D Corsair light attack jets over Southeast Asia (Photo Credit: USAF) In total, Covey flew 339 combat missions, the majority being pre-planned strikes informed by all-source intelligence, including intel gathered by the highly secretive Military Assistance Command, Vietnam – Studies and Observations Group (MACV-SOG) that has its own prominent Seiko associations. Coincidentally, SOG operator and former Dispatch subject Michael “Magnet” O’Byrne and Covey, both of whom used Seiko watches, had overlapping tours, with a high likelihood some of Covey’s missions were informed by O’Byrne’s SOG team—small world.  Covey (standing) wearing his Seiko 6139-6002 at Bien Hoa AFB in South Vietnam alongside an A-37D Dragonfly. (Photo Credit: Colonel Richard Covey) Following his second tour in Vietnam, Covey, who still wore his 6139 every time he climbed into a cockpit, became a test pilot, flying F-4 Phantoms, A-7Ds, and F-15s until 1979 when he achieved his lifelong dream of joining NASA to become an astronaut.  NASA, Riding Explosions, & More Watches   Colonel Covey wearing his 1971 Seiko 6139-6002 chronograph, NASA flight line at the Johnson Space Center, Houston, TX, 1978 (Photo Credit: NASA) After years of intensive training, Covey was assigned to his first space mission in 1985, serving as the pilot of Space Shuttle Discovery on Space Mission STS-51-I, tasked with deploying three communications satellites over seven days in space. Over 15 years including combat in Vietnam, flying as a test pilot, astronaut training, and his first space mission, Covey continued to reach for his Seiko 6139 — “I never took it off during that time.” This is all more impressive considering Covey was also the owner of an Omega Speedmaster Professional issued to him by NASA.  Intriguing, Covey’s Seiko 6139 had competition on his first space mission, with the astronaut also wearing a quartz-powered 1980s Seiko A829-6019, a watch he said was widely favored by numerous NASA astronauts at the time. One watch was for Houston time, the other for Mission Elapsed Time (MET). When I asked where his Omega was, Covey quipped astronauts of the day favored Seiko over other watches due to the exceptional capabilities offered by the venerable Japanese brand. As was the case with Air Force fighter pilots in Vietnam, astronauts were free to choose watches that best served the unique requirements of their mission. A 1970s Seiko 6139-6002 on a news article celebrating the successful 1988 Discovery STS-26 space mission. Covey is to the immediate right of VPOTUS George Bush. (Photo Credit: DC Vintage Watch)  Covey’s second space mission came in 1988 as the pilot of STS-26, again flying aboard the Discovery to deploy a TDRS-3 NASA space communications satellite. A somber mission crewed by space flight veterans, STS-26 was the first space flight following the Challenger disaster, an event that hit particularly close to home for Covey who served as the CAPCOM  – the astronaut on Earth who communicates with crew members in their spacecraft – for the astronauts who perished in the accident.  The crew of NASA’s STS-26 space mission, Colonel Covey front right wearing his 1980’s Seiko A289-6019, October 1988 (Photo Credit: NASA) Promoted to commander, Covey undertook two more space missions, STS-38 and STS-61, with some 16 days aboard the Space Shuttle Atlantis (1990) and the Endeavour (1993). STS-38 caught my eye, given its classified payload for the Department of Defense. Aviation Week reported the mission was suspected of having launched an electronics intelligence (ELINT) satellite headed for geosynchronous orbit to monitor the Desert Shield and Desert Storm conflicts. Some speculated a second satellite was also deployed, with a stealthier mission to covertly inspect other nation's geostationary satellites (Covey – “no comment”). In 2004, NBC published more details about the second bird, seemingly confirming its secretive mission.  Actor Ed Harris playing NASA Flight Director Gene Kranz in the film Apollo 13, wearing a 1970s Seiko 6139 - this dial variant hadn’t debuted during the film’s timeline (Photo Credit: Universal Pictures) Were Apollo 13 (1995) film producers aware of Covey’s Seiko 6139? Ed Harris, as Flight Director Gene Kranz, wore one like Covey’s in the film. Who knows? After I joked the dark blue Seiko 6139 should be called “The Covey,” he noted he was aware of the gold-dialed Seiko 6139-6005 worn by astronaut Colonel William Pogue, aka “The Pogue” (also purchased at a PX) during his 1973 Skylab 4 space mission. Vintage advertisements for the Seiko 6139 and A829 favored by Covey and other astronauts. (Photo Credit: Seiko) While the Seiko 6139 accompanied Covey for his first space mission, his Seiko A829 served as his primary watch for all four of his space flights. (with his NASA-issued Omega Speedmaster as backup to his Seiko - the horror). Following his final space mission in 1993, Covey retired from the USAF and NASA in 1994 to work in several senior defense sector positions, ultimately retiring in 2010. Throughout Covey’s USAF and NASA career, he would be awarded dozens of medals, foremost being the DoD Distinguished Service Medal, five USAF Distinguished Flying Crosses (four in Vietnam with the A-37 Dragonfly, one for the classified STS-38 space mission), and the National Intelligence Medal of Achievement for STS-38. During his career, Covey flew over 5,700 hours in 30 airframes and traveled 4,433,772 miles in 163 orbits of the Earth over nearly 27 days. Today, the retired Colonel’s everyday watch is an Omega Speedmaster Professional X-33 gifted to Covey by Omega when it debuted in 1998.  Colonel Covey receives the United States National Intelligence Medal of Achievement for his contributions to NASA’s classified STS-38 space mission. (Photo Credit: Colonel Richard Covey) But where are Covey’s space-flown watches Seiko watches today? Unfortunately, his Seiko A829 and NASA-issued Omega Speedmaster were stolen during a 1990’s break-in along with a two-tone Rolex Datejust. I also asked where his dark blue Seiko 6139 was now. “It wasn’t lost in the break-in, and I am certain I have it somewhere… My curiosity will lead me to look hard for it.” A few weeks later, Covey reached out to me, “Look what I found! If you hadn’t reminded me, I would not have remembered this is a space-flown watch.”  Colonel Covey’s February 1971 Seiko 6139-6002 chronograph, w/original “presidential” stainless-steel Seiko bracelet. (Photo Credit: Colonel Richard Covey) Despite the attention often falling on Omega where space travel is concerned, Covey’s story again illustrates the permeating influence of Seiko among military, intelligence professionals, and even astronauts. With an incredible career as a pilot as well as serving as a NASA astronaut and even making his mark on the world of espionage, Colonel Covey embodies the “Use Your Tools” ethos while reminding us that not every been-there-done-that watch has to cost an arm and a leg.  If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: "Let's Roll" - A Hero's Rolex Frozen In Time - September 11, 2001 About The Author: Nick Ferrell is a vintage watch dealer and founder of Los Angeles-based DC Vintage Watches and the Sycamore watch line. He is a former U.S. diplomat and intelligence community member, and previously served on the National Security Council. When not obsessing over watches, he is an avid reader of, well, everything. DCVW’s Instagram account is @DCVintageWatches.

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Bribes & Operational Gifts  - The Role Of Timepieces In Clandestine Operations

Bribes & Operational Gifts - The Role Of Timepieces In Clandestine Operations

Using Watches To Make Friends, Exert Influence, & Recruit Spies The job of a CIA Case Officer (C/O), or Operations Officer, is to recruit spies...

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Using Watches To Make Friends, Exert Influence, & Recruit Spies The job of a CIA Case Officer (C/O), or Operations Officer, is to recruit spies and steal secrets. The core competency of a C/O is building relationships with individuals (targets) and ultimately recruiting them to provide Foreign Intelligence on their host government/organization in return for financial remuneration. The trade is not for the faint-hearted, one prized quality of a C/O is the ability to manipulate an individual to further the National Security interests of the United States. We have discussed the operational role of timepieces in espionage, but they can also play a role in the agent recruitment cycle—the transition of an individual from a target to a recruited asset (aka spy). Espionage is a human business and watches are transferable stores of value that have personal meaning—these traits make them effective tools of intelligence tradecraft. Recruitment Process (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In Hollywood, CIA’s recruitment often happens in one dramatic meeting and generally involves a large stack of cash and/or blackmail. In reality, the agent recruitment cycle is more attuned to dating, lasting months and often years. The most successful examples are not transactional, they are real mutually beneficial relationships built on trust. At CIA, the recruitment process is framed with the acronym: SADRAT Spot - Identify a target who may have access to Foreign Intelligence (FI) of strategic or tactical interest to the US Government. He—they are generally men—may be a North Korean intelligence officer, an Iranian nuclear scientist, or a fixer for a non-state terror network. Assess for Access & Suitability - Learn as much about the individual as possible through all means available. Does he have motivations or vulnerabilities that would make him susceptible to a CIA approach? Does he have children who want to go to college in the United States? An ailing mother who needs medical care? Or maybe he's just disenchanted with his employer, has a gambling addiction, or some other vulnerability that can be exploited.  Develop - Make contact with the target. It may be a chance encounter at a diplomatic function, an unsuspecting “bump” at the gym, or a “cold call” asking the individual to meet for a credible but contrived reason. Build a real and lasting relationship with the target to further inform your assessment. Gradually and methodically transition the relationship from casual to real and slowly introduce clandestine tradecraft.  Recruit - Formally ask the individual to enter a relationship with CIA. Most of the time, this is an anti-climactic moment as the asset believed he started working for CIA in the developmental phase. Agent Handle - Clandestinely “handle” the agent to produce regular FI. At this point, it is no longer a personal relationship, but a formal relationship between the asset and the US Government. The agent should be responsive to tasking and fill intelligence gaps in return for a salary. The asset may be transitioned to a new handling officer during a “turnover.” Terminate - In the movies this involves a bullet to the head or piano wire around the neck. While this may be true for some services (ahem Russia’s FSB), at CIA we want our “terminations” to be firm and final but cordial.  We want the asset to think fondly of the relationship, be treated fairly, and leave the door open for potential recontact in the future. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Watches As Operational Gifts The recruitment cycle is slow and methodical, and the core step is the development of a Subject, which can last months or years. There are specific milestones a “developmental” must meet before moving to the next stage. At first, the acceptance of an expensive meal may be an indicator but over time, these financial benefits increase. A timepiece, whether luxury or affordable, is an ideal gift. It’s immediately recognizable, and it’s something that the agent can wear as a constant reminder of the friendship with the Case Officer and thus the greater relationship with the US Government. Further, the soon-to-be agent’s acceptance of an expensive gift from an American official is a strong indication that the individual is willing to move in the direction of a clandestine relationship. Most governments, including the US, have regulations that gifts should be reported and forfeited if accepted (or purchased from the government at a fair market value). If the developmental accepts the gift and does not report it, he has demonstrated that he is willing to break a rule for the personal benefit of himself and the relationship. It’s testing the waters for a future cash payment. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Of course, when he or she accepts the watch, the Case Officer must work with the target to develop an appropriate cover story regarding the watch’s origin. A brand new Rolex Daytona on the wrist of a Russian Third Secretary would be difficult to explain, but a Seiko 5 costing a couple of hundred bucks could easily be explained away. Real World Examples  As a CIA Case Officer, I provided several watches to assets and developmentals during my career and they were effective tools to further the relationship. While the specifics of these cases remain classified, there are several examples available in the public domain and evidence that CIA isn’t the only service leveraging this technique. Saudi Intelligence, Hublot, & Twitter Ahmad Abouammo leaving Alameda County Santa Rita Jail in 2019 after his arrest. In 2022, Abouammo was sentenced to 42 months in federal prison for acting as a foreign agent. (Photo Credit: NBC News) In December 2014, Twitter employee Ahmad Abouammo met with an official of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia in London and was given a Hublot Big Bang Unico King watch valued at $42,000, per Department of Justice (DOJ). Abouammo was a Media Partnerships Manager for the Middle East region and after the meeting, Abouammo provided information to “identify and locate Twitter users of interest to the Saudi Royal Family.” Mohammad Bin Salman with Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Montauk Highway. While the DOJ indictment described the watch as a "bribe," in reality, it was an operational gift provided by the Saudi Official (presumably an intelligence officer) to further the clandestine relationship. According to the DOJ, Twitter has a policy that employees report gifts such as expensive timepieces, which Abouammo did not. His acceptance of the gift was an indication that he was willing to move in the direction of a clandestine relationship, which he ultimately did. He would continue to meet with Saudi officials and provide sensitive information. In 2015 he established a bank account in Lebanon in which he received at least $200,000 in remuneration. At that point, he was recruited. Hublot Big Bang Unico King, described by Abouammo to the FBI as “plasticky” and “junky” To convert that timepiece to money, Abouammo flew back to the US with the Hublot and reportedly tried to sell this watch on Craigslist for $20,000, creating an electronic trail of the gift, one piece of evidence that ultimately led to his conviction. Abouammo would later tell the FBI the Hublot was "plasticky" and "junky."  To learn more about this process read our piece on Watches as Tools of Money Laundering and Illicit Finance.   Watches As Asset Payments  FBI Agent Turned Russian Spy Robert Hanssen FBI Special Agent Robert Hanssen was recruited by Soviet intelligence services and ran on and off for over 20 years until he was arrested in February 2001 servicing a dead drop in Virginia.  He was directly responsible for the deaths of several US assets and was described by the DOJ as "the most damaging spy in FBI history.”  According to the DOJ, Hanssen received at least two Rolex watches from his Russian handlers as forms of payment. In total, Hanssen received more than $1.4 million in cash, bank funds, and diamonds. Above is Robert Hanssen's “Rolex” and handcuffs at the International Spy Museum in Washington D.C. Interestingly, the watch is fake, which some may say is fitting for a turncoat like Hanssen.  According to those who knew him, Hanssen was a watch collector and the FBI seized two other Rolexes when he was arrested. The Spy Museum also has at least one real TAG Heuer belonging to Hanssen not on display. Was the fake watch provided by Russian Intelligence? We can only speculate. CIA Case Officer Harold James Nicholson, A Rolex, & Russian SVR CIA Case Officer Jim Nicholson was arrested in November 1996 for spying for the Russian Foreign Intelligence Service (SVR) and was dubbed the "Rolex-wearing spy nicknamed Batman." He was infamously photographed wearing a t-shirt that said “KGB is for me,” the irony of which is not lost.  According to a Washington Post article, Nicholson was then the highest-ranking CIA officer arrested under espionage charges and provided classified information including the “personal data on many if not all of the young CIA officers whom he helped train from 1994 to 1996.” At the time, CIA Case Officers were not known for their fashion and Nicholson reportedly developed expensive tastes including tailored suits and watches. During one overseas trip, he returned with a new “silver” Rolex watch.  While unconfirmed that this was a direct payment from the Russian SVR, there are indications that if not given then he purchased this or another watch with funds provided by his handling officer. Rolex also played a role in his tradecraft and was reportedly his visual recognition signal when meeting his Russian handlers. He was instructed to "wear his Rolex on his right wrist and carry a magazine and shopping bag." When he was arrested by the FBI at Dulles, FBI "Agents bent Jim over the trunk of the car, spreading his legs and frisking him. They stripped him of his wallet, Rolex, and shoulder bag." - The Spy’s Son. Liaison In addition to the use of timepieces in unilateral clandestine operations, watches make effective tools as gifts to create and solidify ties between intelligence services. We previously documented an example of a European intelligence service presenting a CIA Paramilitary Officer with a timepiece to commemorate operational success, but this tradition extends back to the earliest days of CIA. The Dalai Lama is a known watch enthusiast (Photo Credit: Patrick Leahy) In 1943, Ilia Tolstoy and Brooke Dolan, both members of CIA’s predecessor, the Office of Strategic Services (OSS), presented the Dalai Lama with a Patek Philippe reference 658 on behalf of US President Franklin Delano Roosevelt. Reportedly, the purpose of the gift was to win the Dalai Lama’s support for a potential road through Tibet into China to assist the Chinese in fighting the Japanese. The watch clearly had meaning for the Dalai Lama and is something he still carries today. While it is tempting to separate the gifts to and from “liaison,” a colloquial term to capture third-country intelligence services that work jointly with CIA, in the wilderness of mirrors of espionage, you are always assessing your partners for recruitment, and vice versa.  If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: CIA Officer’s Love Affair with the Arabic Seiko *This article has been reviewed by the CIA's Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

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Bezels & Blades - Tools With A Purpose

Bezels & Blades - Tools With A Purpose

Timepieces & Watches Have Deep Meaning In The NatSec Community Ask any self-respecting watch nerd what passions pair with timepieces and you will inevitably hear...

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Timepieces & Watches Have Deep Meaning In The NatSec Community Ask any self-respecting watch nerd what passions pair with timepieces and you will inevitably hear about Porsche, Leica cameras, and Negroni-flavored toothpaste. Like any community, watch enthusiasts have coalesced around several big personalities (tastemakers) who set the aspirational standards of success: a vintage Paul Newman Rolex Daytona poking out of a cashmere Loro Piana sweater while driving an air-cooled Porsche 911 to the country club with a chilled Negroni in the cup holder. Some say it’s pretentious. For our community, watches are tools, functional items we integrate into our daily lives. Meant to last a lifetime and be passed down to the next generation, their “value” isn’t monetary, it's derived from our shared experiences with these inanimate objects. The interest is the human element. There are a lot of parallels between our relationship with timepieces and knives. Today we’ll explore. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Bezels & Blades I have written about my relationship with knives from an EDC standpoint while at CIA (READ HERE), and it’s true that the essentials for every Case Officer generally include a watch, pen, knife, and flashlight. Every CIA Case Officer's EDC should include a pokey thing. For generations, soldiers and intelligence officers have deployed around the globe to carry out vital national security operations. While the tradecraft, technology, and locations evolve over time, two things present with every practitioner both then and now are a simple wristwatch and a knife. Yarborough, Ka-Bar, and Fairbairn-Sykes are as iconic in our community as Submariner, Tuna, and Seamaster. When we return from these conflicts our blades are talismans, physical embodiments of the people, hardship and accomplishments we encountered. Their value is more than the sum of their parts. Even a simple and relatively cheap Spyderco can be an heirloom.  UDT Issued Tudor Submariner and SOG Knife (Photo Credit: UDT/SEAL Museum) Today everything is perishable: phones, computers, cars, and even spouses are replaced every few years. Most of these commodities are plastic and digital, and there are few functional tools capable of being used for decades and passed down to the next generation. No one needs a mechanical watch, premium knife, or titanium pen, but we use them because of what they represent and the stories they tell.   Knifemakers & Watchmakers Just as we do with watches, we appreciate blades for their utility, but also their design and craftsmanship. Like a good watchmaker, knifemakers are hyper-focused on details. They obsess over design, materials, and aesthetics to create a premium functional tool. These are purpose-built tools, not collectibles or fashion accessories. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Knives In The Global War On Terror One positive consequence of the conflicts in Iraq and Afghanistan is veteran-driven entrepreneurship. Many of these companies focus on utilitarian items with deep meaning to their community: coffee, watches, and particularly knives. Former Navy SEAL Andrew Arrabito founded Half Face Blades, Marine turned knifemaker Connor Toor founded Toor Knives, and a plethora of other former SpecOps personnel have directed their energy to the craft. Legendary knifemakers like Ernest Emerson and Daniel Winkler worked closely with elite units to develop tools for our community. The result of each of these efforts is a tool with both utility and meaning that transcends the physical object.  Connor Toor, Marine turned knifemaker and founder of Toor Corporation. (Photo Credit: Toor Corporation)  Similar to our approach to timepieces, when it comes to knives, we are brand agnostic and support a wide range of knifemakers, particularly those that focus on made-in-America and the community. The “knife community” is just as tribal as the “watch community” with online forums dissecting every detail and material to support “their brand.” The Best Knives (& Watches) Are Gifts Like watches, the best knives start their journey as gifts. When King Abdullah II bin Al-Hussein of Jordan gave me a Royal Jordanian Breitling, he also presented a Jordanian combat knife, a blend of the traditional Jambiya dagger (جنۢبية) and a modern weapon, with "The Arab Army" (al-Jaysh al-Arabiالجيش العربي) inscribed on the blade. Like the Breitling, which accompanied me for over a decade of Agency operations, the blade is a treasured keepsake, something I will pass on to my children when the time comes. While some cultures see this practice as taboo, signifying the severing of a friendship or wishing ill on the recipient, the symbolic meaning of gifting a knife is profound. This is particularly true in military and intelligence circles where deployments, graduations, and joint operations are often commemorated with knives. The Yarborough knife is one notable example, having historically been gifted to graduates of the U.S. Army Special Forces Qualification Course. (Photo Credit: Unknown) Father & Son - A Right Of Passage When I was eight years old, my father gave me a simple Swiss Army knife. It cost next to nothing but at the time it meant everything to me. It was more than “just a knife”, it was a symbol of responsibility and a milestone towards reaching manhood, a lesson in consequences. Today, the knife is long gone, but an inch-long scar remains on my left pointer finger. I have carried on this tradition, presenting my sons knives at specific milestones in their lives, and will give them watches as they get older. When I graduated from university, my father gave me my first real timepiece, a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hometime. At the time, I didn’t realize its significance, but in hindsight, it was a pivotal moment in my life and a lesson in appreciation of time. While I wear the watch less today, it bears the scars of over a decade of hard use (something not necessarily advisable for a JLC dress watch). Former CIA Officer J.R. Seeger’s collection of military-issued watches and OSS memorabilia (Photo Credit: J.R. Seeger) This tradition and its deep ties to our community are what led us to develop our knife, the Mosebey Blade. It’s a functional tool that is appreciated for its utility, craftsmanship, and aesthetics. The Mosebey Blade is a tool for the discerning gentleman, “a PhD who can win a bar fight,” named after one of the most legendary Africa Division CIA Case Officers. Bill “Bwana” Mosebey  Every tool we make comes with a history lesson. Our inaugural knife is named after Bill “Bwana” Mosebey, a legendary Africa Division Case Officer you’ve probably never heard of.  The Most Dangerous Man In Africa Born in 1938 in Pennsylvania, Mosebey was the great-grandson of Civil War spy William Leslie Mosebey. Before joining the CIA in 1959, Mosebey joined the US Army as a reservist, earning his airborne wings before completing special operations training. An agency legend during the Cold War, Mosebey spent the majority of his 34-year CIA career on “The Continent” conducting intelligence collection and covert action against the Soviet Union. Developing a reputation as “The Most Dangerous Man In Africa”, Mosebey earned numerous awards for his service including The William J. Donovan Award and the Distinguished Intelligence Medal, our Nation’s highest for intelligence officers. Retiring in 1995, Mosebey rejoined the agency in the aftermath of the attacks on September 11th, 2001.  Known for his tailored safari suits and waxed mustache, Mosebey was also an avid outdoorsman, woodsman, and historian, and spent considerable time hunting while on assignment for the CIA around the world. Never one for the spotlight, Mosebey single-handedly influenced geopolitics while serving as the consummate quiet professional, a classic gentleman who lived a life of adventure and service to his nation.  Our blade is a tribute to unsung heroes of the intelligence community like Mosebey, produced from the highest quality materials for a unique marriage of utility and refinement that embodies our “Use Your Tools” ethos.  The Mosebey Blade (Photo Credit: James Rupley) The result of a nine-month development effort, the Mosebey is a fully customized all-purpose blade made in the USA from premium domestic materials. We made no compromises on the design or craftsmanship of this unique tool for our community. Presented as a limited edition, each blade is individually numbered and serialized. Inspired by the design of a one-off blade W.O.E. purchased while living in Africa, we worked with Marine veteran turned knife maker Connor Toor to bring our tool to life. As with most of our tools, the branding is subtle with a deep laser-engraved W.O.E. spearhead on the blade and another inside the leather sheath. The spearhead is modeled off the insignia originally developed by the Office of Strategic Services (OSS) and used by modern-day intelligence and SpecOps units. The Mosebey Blade Order Here RELEASES 21 MAY, 6 PM ET If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.

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The Seiko Found In The Wreckage Of A Spy Ship And North Korean Covert Operations

The Seiko Found In The Wreckage Of A Spy Ship And North Korean Covert Operations

A Seiko Dive Watch 7548 - 7000 was recovered from the wreckage of a North Korean Spy Ship after the Battle of Amami-Ōshima. Where did...

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A Seiko Dive Watch 7548 - 7000 was recovered from the wreckage of a North Korean Spy Ship after the Battle of Amami-Ōshima. Where did it come from and what does it tell us about North Korean Covert Action? At CIA, the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (DPRK) is known as one of the “big four,” along with Russia, China, and Iran. The big four (five with Cuba sometimes included) are “hard target” countries that represent a particular challenge for traditional intelligence collection. Kim Jong Un wearing an IWC Portofino. (Photo Credit: Unknown) Hollywood will often relegate North Korean intelligence officers, primarily the Reconnaissance Bureau of the General Staff Department (RGB), as comedic bumbling amateurs, but we learned to never underestimate our adversaries. The Hermit Kingdom has been successful in projecting power well beyond its borders, including the 1987 bombing of Korean Air Flight 858 killing 115 people with a bomb in the overhead bin, the 2014 hack of Sony Pictures in response to the upcoming film The Interview, kidnapping dozens of Japanese citizens off the beach, and notably the 2017 assassination of Kim Jong Nam with a VX nerve agent in the Kuala Lumpur airport. Operatives have been particularly effective at conducting covert action and subversion activities in neighboring waters surrounding Japan and South Korea. A Seiko In A North Korean Spy Ship The Seiko 7548 - 7000 recovered from the Changyu 3705. (Photo Credit: Instagram: @thewristplorer & Japan Coast Guard Museum Yokohama)  A Seiko on display in a museum located in Japan is nothing out of the ordinary. Seiko itself even maintains a public museum in Tokyo’s shopping district, Ginza, where notable watches from the brand are on display. These watches are part of the larger story of Japanese horology, otaku culture, and all that comes with it.  Drive 30 minutes by car to the south, just outside the metropolis of Tokyo, there’s a Seiko diver sitting in a glass case at the Japan Coast Guard Museum Yokohama. It’s crusted in sea salt and flotsam-filled grime, and its bezel insert is nowhere to be found. This watch, in particular, a ref. 7548 - 7000, while horologically interesting, is part of a much different story, the story of relations between the nations of Japan and North Korea, often characterized by hostility and tension. Sometimes a watch has multiple stories to tell — be it of horological significance, the course of nations, or in this case, both. December 21st, 2001 - The Waters Of Kagoshima Prefecture, Japan The Changyu 3705 shortly before being fired upon by the Japan Coast Guard. (Photo Credit: Japan Coast Guard) The Japanese Defense Intelligence Headquarters was picking up unusual signals from a communication station in Kikaijima, a small island in the Amami archipelago, far away from any major metropolitan area of Japan. The subtropical archipelago sits about 130 miles north of Okinawa. The communications caused what looked like a fishing trawler to come under investigation by the Japan Coast Guard. Four vessels were deployed to ascertain the ship’s intentions — benign or nefarious. The ship was issued a warning to halt. It did not comply. It resembled a fishing vessel, common in these waters. But breaking an official order certainly was uncommon. This was a fushin-sen, or “suspicious ship”, after all. Following established escalation procedures, the Japan Coast Guard fired 25 warning shots across the bow of the boat. Normally that would be enough to persuade even the most recalcitrant fishing trawler — possibly using illegal techniques to harvest fish — to cut its engine and allow the Coast Guard to board for inspection. Instead, the ship in question started performing evasive maneuvers and increasing its speed to 33 knots — staggeringly fast for a trawler. Japan’s Special Boarding Unit was established as a response to repeated spy ship incursions into Japanese waters. (Photo Credit: Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force) Meanwhile, the Japan Coast Guard had readied its Special Boarding Unit, known as the Tokubetsukeibitai, in case the situation reached a point where it would be needed. Instead of heeding the warning shots, the trawler fired back and a firefight ensued. It was equipped with light and heavy machine guns and the occupants of the ship utilized rocket-propelled grenades (RPG) to return fire to the Japan Coast Guard vessel. Later, Man-Portable Air Defense Systems (MANPADS) and a double-barrel ZPU-2 anti-aircraft weapons system would be found aboard. Bullet holes on the recovered wreck of the Changyu 3705, now on display at the Japan Coast Guard Museum Yokohama. (Photo Credit: Japan Coast Guard Museum Yokohama) The ship was no ordinary fishing vessel, it was a North Korean spy ship, later identified as the Changyu 3705. It was meticulously disguised as a fishing trawler with Chinese characters painted on its hull. Everyone aboard the North Korean vessel perished when the ship sank; a few bodies were recovered, while the majority went missing. It was unclear if it was Japanese rounds that sent it to the bottom of the East China Sea or if the crew scuttled it, but roughly six hours after warning shots were fired, the North Korean vessel became a shipwreck. September 2002 - The Site Of The Changyu 3705 Wreck A massive ship equipped with a crane was chartered by the Japan Coast Guard to raise the wreck of the 98-foot Changyu 3705. Once on dry land, the Japanese government discovered the boat had been specially modified with concealed compartments for the deployment of landing craft. There was also a system of armament on rails so a recoilless rifle could be moved out of sight. It turns out the ship had a self-destruction system too. Small arms recovered from the wreck of the Changyu 3705 in 2002. (Photo Credit: Japan Coast Guard Museum Yokohama) After inspecting the hull, the government took an inventory of everything onboard. Weapons, communication equipment, DPRK propaganda documents (including a portrait of Kim Jong Il), nautical charts of their area of operations, and something rather curious — a Japanese-made Seiko 7548 - 7000. North Korea & Seiko Watches Why would a North Korean spy have a Japanese watch in his possession? Japan is a sworn enemy of the North Korean state. Surely they wouldn't be supporting a capitalistic Japanese juggernaut like Seiko. A Seiko 7548 recovered from a captured North Korean frogman on Dadaepo Beach in 1983. (Photo Credit: KTV, via Ryan's Blog) We’ve covered how a watch can be used in an operational capacity, perhaps to support a cover. But the answer in this case is probably a simple one: intelligence practitioners need tools that work. And Seikos just work when you need them to and are particularly well suited for the maritime environment. It’s not the first instance of a known North Korean operator wearing a Seiko dive watch, either. An unconfirmed image of the North Korean spies captured on South Korea’s South Korea’s Dadaepo Beach in 1983. One was captured wearing a Seiko 6309 - 7040 and the other a 7548 - 7000. According to Ryan's Blog, in a separate incident on December 3, 1983, two North Korean frogmen were intercepted and captured while infiltrating South Korea’s Dadaepo Beach located in Busan. They would eventually defect to South Korea, but not before being processed by South Korea’s National Intelligence Service. They were stripped of their equipment, including the Type SP-10 semi-submersible they used to get onshore. A Seiko 6309 - 7040 taken from one of the North Korean frogmen following their capture in 1983 on Dadaepo Beach. (Photo Credit: The War Museum Of Korea, via Ryan's Blog) Strapped to their wrists? On one, a Seiko 6309 - 7040. On the other, a 7548 - 7000.  Many forces, historically, have issued Seikos to their operators. This probably isn’t the case in North Korea, however. The prevalent use of Seikos by North Korean operators stems from the reliability of the watches and their relative ubiquity and affordability around the globe.  Luxury Watches, American Vehicles, & Superdollars A 1970s Omega bearing Kim Il-Sung’s signature, further evidence of illegally imported luxury goods in the DPRK. (Photo Credit: Omega Forums) We’ve looked at a mysterious Omega bearing the signature of Kim Il-Sung on the dial, specially produced by Omega in the late ‘70s for the regime. Where there’s a dictatorship, luxury goods — illegally and legally imported — usually aren’t far away. It’s safe to say that the North Korean military didn’t put in an order with Seiko HQ in Japan to obtain these dive watches that seem to be used by North Korean spies and operators. In fact, it’s unlikely that there’s an official retail presence and distribution model for Seiko in the “Hermit Kingdom”. Even the neutral Swiss government banned the export of all Swiss watches to the DPRK in 2016 due to its ongoing research with nuclear weapons and ballistic missiles. Often coming from China, black-market luxury goods including Swiss watches and even American cars make their way into the DPRK. (Photo Credit: CNN) But that doesn’t stop goods from flowing into the country on the black market. Most luxury goods and dual-use military equipment are imported through the grey market via neighboring China. You’ll even find American automobiles, like the Hummer H1, cruising the streets of Pyongyang. It’s reported that Illicit goods are often purchased with Superdollars, a counterfeit US currency produced by North Korea. An American-made Hummer H1 cruising the streets of Pyongyang. (Photo Credit: Thaddeus Stapleton) This all points to the tangled web of the black market that would allow Seikos to end up in the hands of North Korean operators and spies. North Korea has a network of undeclared intelligence officers around the world and legitimate diplomatic missions to allied states. The watches could be purchased abroad and brought back to North Korea in any number of ways. What’s left of the Changyu 3705 is on display along with the Seiko 7548 at the Japan Coast Guard Museum Yokohama. (Photo Credit: Japan Coast Guard Museum Yokohama) We’ll never know the exact origins of the Seiko found at the bottom of the sea aboard the Changyu 3705, or the models involved in the Dadaepo Beach incident. It’s all conjecture at best. The world of covert action and subversion is murky. Whether it's the Navy-issued 6309 on the wrist of a Navy SEAL in the mountains of Afghanistan or the 7548 - 7000 used by a North Korean spy, we can glean that spies and operators tend to gravitate towards the same timekeeping tools. The ones they can rely on. -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.  This Dispatch has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information. Read Next: CIA Case Officer’s Everyday Carry - EDC Thanks to @thewristplorer on Instagram for providing several photos of the North Korean Seiko 7548 from the Japan Coast Guard Museum Yokohama.

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Inside The Watch Culture Of CIA Paramilitary Officers

A Watch Given To A CIA Paramilitary Officer After a successful joint operation in the late 2010s, a European intelligence service presented a CIA Paramilitary...

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A Watch Given To A CIA Paramilitary Officer After a successful joint operation in the late 2010s, a European intelligence service presented a CIA Paramilitary Officer with a gift, a U-Boat timepiece to commemorate operational success. Like most accomplishments in the world of espionage, the ceremony (if you can call it that) was small, just the officer and his counterpart, deep inside the headquarters of the European service. There would be no press announcement and the accomplishment would remain unknown to the world, though its impact was of strategic level value to the United States.  Today, that Paramilitary Officer is medically retired due to health issues and is going through treatment with the assistance of the Third Option Foundation. In his post-government life, he treasures the timepiece as a memento, a private celebration of his accomplishments, and multiple decades of service to his country. In our community, it’s never just a watch. CIA Paramilitary Watch Culture  CIA PMOO wearing a Rolex Sub, somewhere overseas. There is no such thing as a real-life Jason Bourne. The closest resources in CIA’s toolbox are the men and women of the Special Activities Center (SAC - formerly SAD) and specifically Paramilitary Operations Officers (PMOOs). PMOOs are trained as case officers and conduct traditional foreign intelligence (FI) collection, but what makes them unique is their focus on covert action.  Covert action is the “Third Option” for the President of the United States when military force is inappropriate and diplomacy is inadequate - a deniable capability to further US National Security interests. While CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board won’t let us name countries, suffice it to say PMOOs have been on the ground before, during, and after most of the major conflicts of the past 70 years. Paramilitary Officers were particularly effective in carrying out train-advise-assist operations with local partner forces during the Global War on Terror in Iraq, Afghanistan, and around the globe. Currently, they represent the tip of the spear in the multifaceted power competition in Europe and Asia. CIA Paramilitary Watch Culture SAC recruits primarily college graduates from Special Operations Forces (SOF) including Army Rangers/Special Forces, Navy SEALs, and Marines with a requirement of eight years of active duty service and multiple combat tours. While the majority of PMOOs rely on Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.) in conflict zones, there is a strong watch culture inside the SAC, and it’s directly influenced by each operator's military background. We are aware of at least two “unit watches” commissioned by PMOOs with the SAC insignia on the caseback and/or dial, but can’t go into details at this time as these are ongoing programs. CIA Issued Timex Ironman. This watch was issued to a partner force and the CIA Paramilitary Officer wore it as a sign of solidarity. It is no surprise that PMOOs tend to prefer robust tool watches. On their wrists, you’ll find the usual suspects: Rolex, Breitling, Panerai, Sangin Instruments, and Bremont. While some in the Directorate of Operations will degrade PMOOs as “knuckle draggers”, the majority of the Paramilitary Officers I worked with were true intelligence professionals. SAC in particular puts a lot of focus on grooming future leaders and a traditional Case Officer/FI tour is practically a requirement for career progression, with the best Paramilitary Officers doing at least one traditional intelligence collection tour early in their careers. Timepieces As Operational Gifts As we have discussed, luxury timepieces play an outsized role in the murky world of intelligence while also serving as effective operational gifts for assets and developmentals (individuals being assessed for clandestine recruitment). They are also received by CIA Officers as gifts from “liaisons,” a colloquial term to capture third-country intelligence services that work jointly with CIA. This is the story of the receipt of a unique timepiece during one Paramilitary Officer’s traditional FI, or foreign intelligence, tour. Coming Of Age The paramilitary officer in question grew up in Connecticut, later moving out west during his teenage years. Motivated in part by the attacks on 9/11, he signed up for the Army and was commissioned as an officer in the mid-2000s. He deployed to the Middle East at the height of the Global War On Terror with the Joint Special Operations Command and was ultimately recruited by SAC's “operational branch/department” during a deployment to Afghanistan.   After completing the training pipeline to be certified as a CIA Case Officer at “The Farm” as well as the tactical training required for PMOOs, the officer went on to have an extensive career with years of warzone assignments throughout the Middle East and more traditional assignments where he was accompanied by his wife and son. During the warzone assignments, he wore a Timex Ironman, a watch commonly issued by CIA to local partner forces. While he owned more feature-rich digital watches including a Suunto, this small detail was not lost on his local counterparts.  As he learned in CIA training, a simple gesture like a shared meal  — or a watch — can go a long way in building comradery.  Gifting Watches In The Intelligence Business The tradition of gifting watches between partner military and intelligence units goes back decades and can be used to build trust and commemorate an operational accomplishment or joint deployment. W.O.E. previously discussed receiving a Breitling Aerospace from King Abdullah of Jordan, and while there are restrictions on receiving expensive gifts, CIA Officers can generally later purchase these items from the US Government. If an officer feels that not accepting the gift would damage rapport, he or she can accept the item in question, understanding it ultimately becomes property of the US Government until it can be purchased through the proper channels at fair market value later. Often, CIA works alone. However, at times, CIA works closely with “friendly” intelligence services, colloquially referred to as “liaisons.” It was through this partnership with a European service that the PMOO received the U-Boat watch.   The European service has a long tradition of presenting watches as commemorative gifts to honor its partnerships with counterparts in CIA and other intelligence agencies worldwide. Representing more than mere gifts, they are emblems of significant alliances and successful (REDACTED) operations. Each watch commemorates a different operation, a distinct moment in time when multiple agencies representing differing sets of national interests came together to contribute to global security. After the operation (the details of which remain classified), the officer was invited to a (REDACTED) liaison meeting inside the intelligence service’s headquarters. The liaison counterpart rehashed the recent success and its impact on both countries before presenting the officer with a box. Inside was a U-Boat watch. The European officer explained his service's tradition of presenting watches: "The watch isn’t just a mechanism to tell time; it’s a reminder of our shared commitment, our shared victories, and sometimes, our shared losses.”  For this CIA Officer and many others, a watch transcends its role as a timepiece, serving as a wearable testament to the trust and camaraderie developed in high-pressure situations, embodying a unique fraternity that surpasses national boundaries. These watches symbolize a brotherhood formed in secrecy, bound by a commitment to shared values and objectives. In the world of intelligence, where time can be the difference between life and death and seconds can alter history's course, these watches hold profound significance, representing critical moments when nations, through their covert operatives, align not just in time but in principle and purpose.  The Watch U-Boat is a relatively young Italian watch brand. Founded in 2000 by Italian designer Italo Fontana, U-Boat takes its inspiration from the founder’s grandfather Ilvo Fantana who sketched designs for wristwatches for the Italian Navy in the 1940s. From this inspiration, U-Boat has a specific aesthetic that unites the different collections together. Oversized cases, highly legible dials, and left-sided “Destro” crowns complete the U-Boat look.  The U-Boat Sommerso 46 DLC (Ref. 9015) is distinguished by its tactical PVD-coated case and lefty crown. The watch stands out both in design and presence on the wrist. The U-Boat watches gifted by this service are more than sophisticated timekeeping instruments; they are tokens of respect, trust, and an unspoken bond among intelligence professionals. They are reminders of joint efforts, shared risks, and commitments that transcend geographic and political divides, embodying the spirit of international collaboration in the clandestine world of intelligence. Today, that Paramilitary Officer is medically retired due to health issues and is going through treatment with the assistance of the Third Option Foundation. He continues to work in the national security space, with frequent trips to the Middle East. He regularly wears the U-Boat watch as well as his Special Activities Center “unit watch,” he purchased as a retirement gift to himself.  The timepieces are a memento, a constant reminder of his multi-decade service to his country, and a private celebration of his accomplishments. As we said earlier, in our community, it’s never just a watch. If you would like to support the men and women of the CIA’s Special Activity Center, please consider a donation to the Third Option Foundation. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.   -- This Dispatch has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.   READ NEXT: Marathon, Watch Maker for the Modern Military

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Living In Zulu Time - Why GMT Watches Are Important to Special Operations & Intelligence Officers

Living In Zulu Time - Why GMT Watches Are Important to Special Operations & Intelligence Officers

Tracking Multiple Time Zones In Austere Circumstances By J.R. Seeger, former CIA SIS Greenwich Mean Time or “GMT” is an internationally accepted timing standard by...

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Tracking Multiple Time Zones In Austere Circumstances By J.R. Seeger, former CIA SIS Greenwich Mean Time or “GMT” is an internationally accepted timing standard by which all other time zones are defined. A GMT watch tracks one or two additional time zones by way of a fourth hand, a bezel or chapter ring with 24-hour markings, or some combination of the two. Revered by enthusiasts for invoking a sense of nostalgia, GMT watches serve as a throwback to the golden age of travel before cell phones. But for those at the tip of the spear living in Zulu Time, the GMT has a more practical function. Living In Zulu Time While there were earlier attempts at tracking multiple timezones, like the watches US Navy officer Philip Van Horn Weems developed with Longines in the ‘20s, GMT watches as we know them today took off in the 1950s, first with the Glycine Airman in 1953 and followed by the Rolex GMT-Master in 1954. Robust and relatively attainable at the time, this burgeoning category of watches provided the ability to ascertain the time of day in two or even three time zones around the globe at a glance. The Tudor Black Bay GMT (Photo Credit: James Rupley)  For pilots or the then-novel community of international business travelers, watches like the GMT-Master were exceptionally helpful. But why are GMT watches important to the world of Watches of Espionage? In The Shadow World - Timing Is Everything We regularly point out that time is an essential factor in both espionage and special operations, sometimes acting as the difference between life and death if a case officer or agent is not at a given meeting place precisely on time. Lingering on “the X” invites scrutiny and, in the shadowy world of espionage, scrutiny can mean arrest, prison, or even execution. Special operations missions are also exceptionally choreographed, meaning every second counts when a team is linking up on the ground, at sea, or in the air. And this is where a GMT watch serves as an essential piece of kit. Rolex GMT Master Reference 1675 on Billy Waugh’s wrist in retirement. Waugh was a legendary Special Forces operator and CIA contractor. (Photo Credit, Recoil Magazine and Tom Marshall) This level of choreography across assets often involves traveling across multiple time zones. Coordinating a multifaceted mission based on various local timing standards invites uncertainty and risk, with the entire concept of local time potentially meaning different things to different people for any number of different units or assets involved. This is why case officers and special ops personnel live in what is known as Zulu Time. Being on Zulu Time ensures everyone is on time and minimizes the risk of operations failing due to timing errors. Utilized by the military, various government organizations, and the world of aviation, Zulu Time is so named for the Z timezone in the ACP 121 military timing standard of 25 letter-designated zones, with each zone referring to a longitudinal swath of the Earth. As you may have surmised, the Z, pronounced “Zulu” in NATO’s phonetic alphabet, indicates Greenw