From Open-Water Swims To Dinner Out, Meaning Comes From Use, Not MSRP
Summertime generally means travel, time off at the beach or in the mountains, or, if you are lucky, a trip to Europe or another cultural destination. It is also a great time to build lasting memories.
If you are new to W.O.E., then you should understand that “Use Your Tools” is our ethos. But what that really means is it’s our core belief that a relationship can be developed with seemingly inanimate objects through shared experience, a phenomenon that particularly applies to watches. It’s less about the reference, brand name, or cost and more about how you live your life. In my opinion, there is no better time to “Use Your Tools” than the warm weather months of June through August.
Are Nice Watches Worth The Price?
No matter how many “nice” watches you own, there’s always an argument for having a few “affordables” in your collection. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.)
I like nice watches, and “nice” is generally synonymous with expensive. Despite what the haters say, a new Rolex or Omega represents a combination of phenomenal quality and engineering with a matching level of brand equity. When it comes to watches, you do generally get what you pay for, and with some exceptions, a more expensive watch (often) represents better craftsmanship, materials, and branding. That said, across the board, we have seen a large increase in the prices of both new and pre-owned models, with several second-tier brands likely overcharging for the value you gain. And, of course, the 39% tariffs aren’t helping…
If your takeaway from W.O.E. is that you need a Tudor, Omega, or Breitling to be a cool guy or participate in the Use Your Tools lifestyle, you are missing the point. I take off my nicest piece and put on a “cheap” Seiko and get the same personal satisfaction. It's not about the watch on your wrist, but the person wearing it.
Ok, enough of the rant. Here are three “affordable” watches I have worn consistently this summer, presented with the understanding that “affordable” is a relative term, especially for watch dorks. I have no relationship with these companies, and I purchased each one with my own doll hairs
Something For Working Out: Momentum UDT 42mm - $369
13:02 into a mountain bike ride. Sometimes you want to know the time down to the second.
I am a big fan of “ana-digi” watches, meaning watches with both an analog and digital display on the dial. When I was at CIA, the watch I wore most while operational was the Breitling Aerospace. It has the appearance of a “nice” watch and the convenience of digital functions, making it ideal for operational use.
When I saw that Momentum was re-releasing the “UDT,” I preordered without hesitation. The watch is a remake of the Chronosport UDT, a rugged, then tech-forward dive watch worn by Sylvester Stallone in Rambo II, with a strong following in our community. There are also strong indications that the UDT was issued at the unit level.
When it arrived, I put the watch on our green FKM strap, and it has been my go-to for biking, open water swims, and other times when I want to record the exact time elapsed. This is a great alternative to a smartwatch that also won’t bog you down with notifications, which I hate, especially when I’m working out
Post 30-minute lap swim.
Featuring a solar-powered Seiko/Epson movement, the new 42mm UDT offers a no-frills digital display integrated into a black dial, housed in a 42mm steel case with a sapphire crystal, a ceramic bezel insert, and 200m water resistance. It provides everything you need with screw-down pushers, dual time zones, an alarm, and a chronograph. The result is a wearable, nostalgia-fueled tool watch that captures the essence of its 1980s predecessors without trying to replicate them exactly.
Cons: Full disclosure, I have heard a lot of chirpin’ by the watch nerds about the negatives of this watch. I got the first iteration, and there are definitely some kinks they should work out. The pushers are sticky, it skips the backlight and seconds hand, and I am not really a fan of solar. There is a steep learning curve for how to set and operate the watch, and I have had to consult the manual each time. I actually enjoy this tedious process, but it is not for the novice.
The Undisputed Watch Of The Summer: CWC TGN Crew Watch - $1,200
I’m a big fan of CWC, Cabot Watch Company. The UK brand is one of the few analog military-issued brands still in circulation, and has the legitimate heritage that many modern “military” brands would kill for. Last year, CWC, in collaboration with our friends at The Grey NA To (TGN), developed the Crew Watch No. 1.
This is my undisputed watch of summer 2025 and is a true “grab and go watch.” The grade 5 titanium case with fixed lugs makes it so comfortable that it's almost like nothing is on your wrist. It is a simple time-only watch with a high-torque ETA F06.402, that (apparently) has an estimated seven-year battery and accuracy of +/- 10 seconds per year. The big benefit here is that you can pick up the watch at any time and don’t have to worry about winding and setting it.
Why is this the ideal summer watch? For one, it's a strap monster. The fixed lugs are ideal for any strap you fancy. For me, that means the Glomar Explorer (my go-to summer strap) or a Z.A. W.O.E. 2.0. No matter what you are doing, from splashing in the baby pool to surfing big waves in Nazaré, you can be confident this watch isn't going anywhere. At 300 meters of water resistance, you can be sure that it will stay dry inside, too.
The 12-hour bezel is used to track a second time zone without the need for a dedicated GMT function. I have not implemented this, but I do think the added feature is a bonus for international travel.
Cons: Some dive nerds (like Ben) have chirped that they would like to see an elapsed time bezel on this watch, which I think I actually agree with (don’t tell Ben). Some have also said this is a “poor man’s Tudor Pelagos FXD.” The fixed lug design is obviously inspired by the FXD, but it looks and wears completely different, so I don’t really see the comparison. The truth is that CWC was doing fixed spring bars long before Tudor ever made the FXD…
These are long sold out and were only available to TGN subscribers, but at $1,200 USD, it was expensive for a quartz. As a general rule, I don’t think you should pay over $1,000 for a quartz watch. However know how much prototyping and R&D is required for a new titanium case, and I think this price is fair. (Note, the current commercially available version appears to be £1,199.00, which is about $1,600 in real money.)
When You Need To Dress It Up: “Arabic Seiko” SNKP21J1 - $172
While summer generally means flip flops, bathing suits, and water, you still have to have something to dress it up. Whether it's a dinner at the Galley, the Pearl, or Proprietors, I like taking off my wet strap and putting on something a little more refined. The Arabic Seiko (aka Seik-WOE) is still a go-to watch, and every time I wear it puts a smile on my face. It’s a conversation starter and so cheap that it is not the end of the world if something happens. Changing out the strap to leather makes it look like a refined field watch, but just about everything works on this one.
For more on my relationship with the Arabic Seiko and its meaning in our community, read HERE. You can pick this up on Amazon, and it will be at your door tomorrow, which is also pretty cool.
Cons: My main hesitation with calling this a summer watch is that it is not really water-resistant. At “5 ATM,” a fancy way of saying 50 meters, it's not made for swimming, and I would take this off before jumping in Polpis Harbor. You can generally find these watches for around $150, and the reality is, you get what you pay for. The lume sucks, the movement is just okay, but for the price, it's hard to beat.
Ben Lowry’s Pick AKA SubmersibleWrist
To provide additional options, I have asked our resident dive nerd and employee #1 at W.O.E., Ben Lowry, to provide his pick for an affordable summer watch.
The (Real) Undisputed Watch Of Summer 2025 - Citizen Aqualand JP2008-06E - $595
(Photo Credit: Brock Stevens)
As W.O.E. explained, the Use Your Tools lifestyle is one part utility and another, maybe even bigger part shared experience. I am a card-carrying member of the Citizen Aqualand tribe and the proud owner of seven (or maybe eight) examples, including two Royal Navy-issued models, vintage versions, and the modern JP2000-08E, so when Citizen announced the new black and gold 40th Anniversary JP2008-06E earlier this summer, I was always going to be all in. For $595, it’s a great dive watch and an excellent addition to the Aqualand songbook, but that’s not why I selected it as my affordable watch of summer.
Diving the new Aqualand in Chicago was the shared experience I needed to cement the watch as my pick for the summer. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens)
At least for me, appreciating and understanding a dive watch has a lot to do with using it for its intended purpose. With a legible analog dial integrating a secondary digital display tracking a diver’s depth in real time, the Aqualand has utility in spades. But the shared experience part is what made this watch for me, as my first blush with the watch was Citizen’s Windup In A Lake event in Chicago back in July, where a bunch of good friends and dive buddies took an 80s-themed boat ride and dived a wreck near the Chicago waterfront, which was a blast. The watch is now tied to the memory of the day, and I’ve had a hard time taking the Aqualand off ever since.
Final W.O.E. Thoughts
Whether from legendary brands like Seiko or lesser-known options like Momentum, there are plenty of great, affordable watches out there if you know where to look. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.)
I love watches. I am far from a materialistic person, but these simple objects bring me joy and help me appreciate life. Part of the altruistic nature of this platform is inspiring the current and next generation to appreciate analog timepieces, a technology that is largely obsolete.
The purpose of this article is to demonstrate that you don’t need to dip into your 401(k)/Thrift Savings Plan to enter this hobby. A simple and affordable watch worn for decades has much more meaning than a brand-new Rolex or Omega.
Once again, the man makes the watch, not the other way around.
If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.
Read Next: Advice for Buying a Watch
15 comments
Great article and I fully agree – when I realised I enjoyed wearing my SKX007 just as much as my Speedmaster Professional, I sold the Omega and have never looked back. I read a superb article years ago by a diver who swore by the SKX on the basis that in real terms it did everything a Rolex or Omega does, for much less replacement cost if you damage it. No finer definition of a tool watch, IMHO.
Also, can you identify the specific Seiko5 automatic model in the last pic please?
I completely agree. Right now I am really enjoying my Sangin Kinetic II over other more expensive automatics in my collection. I find that the history of the company or the particular model itself actually draws me in and helps me form a connection to it and the ethos that comes with it far more than any price tag or perceived status.
Great article as always. Many great reminders throughout of what drew me to the W.O.E. community and is ethos.
Thank you for these types of articles. They are really helpful for those of us just getting into the hobby! The UDT looks fantastic and at a decent price.