Newest Articles
Spec Ops
The Most Iconic Military Watch Of All Time? The Seiko 6309
One Of History’s Most Important Diving & Military Watches Was Also One Of The Most Attainable By Benjamin Lowry At W.O.E., we are vehemently brand...
Read MoreOne Of History’s Most Important Diving & Military Watches Was Also One Of The Most Attainable By Benjamin Lowry At W.O.E., we are vehemently brand agnostic. However, certain brands and watches have a habit of popping up again and again in relation to our community. Who are we to argue with the influence of Sketchy Breitling unit watches or Tudors of Espionage (T.O.E.)? As we often say, we don’t make the rules. W.O.E. himself has a habit of getting sentimental about watches including his custom black Tudor Pelagos FXD, the Jordanian Breitling that started this whole thing, and, of course, the Arabic Seiko (AKA the Seik-W.O.E.). A USMC Marine Combatant Diver wears a 6309 in 1994. (Photo Credit: US National Archive) That’s all fine and good for him, but for me, a former Coastie and commercial diver, there is another watch in Seiko’s vintage catalog that is even more meaningful: the 6309, or “Turtle” as it's known to many military members. Backed by impressive military history, a utilitarian design format, widespread adoption in our community, and a more attainable price point compared to other icons in the world of undersea timekeeping, the 6309 is among the most important diving and military watches of all time, full stop. I would even go as far as to say it is the most iconic Watches of Espionage watch of the last five decades, issued to and worn by SEALs, Pararescuemen, Special Forces, and others. The 6309’s Military Legacy In the late 1970s, SEAL Teams transitioned from Tudor Submariners (left) to the Seiko 6309 (right). (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) Released in 1976 and following in the footsteps of Seiko’s 6105 “Willard” models, the 6309 caught on almost immediately with the military. Before Seiko, the US Military of the 1960s and 70s purchased and issued the also legendary Tudor Submariner for its divers and amphibious special operators including Navy SEALs. However, with price points for Rolex and even Tudor watches ascending beyond the meager means of military procurement channels, many SEAL Teams and other SpecOps units adopted the less expensive but equally capable Seiko. Tim Ryan, a legendary US Air Force Pararescueman (PJ) wears a Seiko 6309 during dive training. Not limited to official issue, the 6309 was also commonly purchased by military members at the local PX or Navy Exchange. In past profiles of special operators, which are extensive at this point, the 6309 is easily the most commonly encountered mechanical dive watch in the late 70s and 80s. When US Navy SEAL Dave Hall shook hands with Scout Sniper legend Gunny Carlos Hathcock after completing sniper school, a Seiko Turtle was on his wrist. When Jose Gordon was a young Army Ranger assisting the Contras in their fight against communism in Nicaragua in the 1980s, he wore a Seiko 6309. In more recent years, Kyle Defoor—who would go on to serve with SEAL Team Six or DEVGRU—wore a 6309 formerly belonging to SEAL legend Rudy Boesch, again demonstrating the decades-long relationship between this watch and the SpecOps community. One of the two “Dadaepo Frogmen” captured by the South Korean Army in 1983 wore a Seiko 6309. If that ain’t ubiquitous, I don’t know what is. The Turtle’s reach was not limited to the United States, the military, or even the free world, with the 6309 also being commonly spotted on international forces of the day, countless recreational divers, as well as North Korean frogmen doing their very best to conduct maritime espionage operations off the coast South Korea. When it comes to military legitimacy, the 6309 is as real as it gets. Again, we don’t make the rules. An Attainable Yet Capable Mechanical Diver From Japan A US Navy SEAL wearing a 6309 in 1987. (Photo Credit: US National Archives) While the 6309’s brick shithouse-like reputation and legible design were also key components of its success, its single biggest selling proposition was value, coming in at a much more attainable price point compared to Swiss-made mechanical dive watches of the era. A US Seiko retail pricing guide from the Fall of 1977 lists the DE095, the 6309’s official reference at the time, for $155. No matter how you slice it, the 6309 did the same job for less money. While that equates to somewhere around $793 today, the Seiko represented a relative bargain, with a Tudor Submariner coming in at $295 suggested retail price the same year, which is something like $1,525 today, also known as double the price. For argument’s sake, a Rolex Submariner Date would have set you back $585 in 1977 or $3,024 in 2024 dollars. Surprisingly, the Turtle’s modern equivalent, the SRPE93, is relatively less expensive than its ancestor at $495. US Navy SEAL Dave Hall shakes hands with Marine Scout Sniper Carlos Hathcock while wearing a Seiko Turtle. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) In military settings, the almighty dollar is often king and the cheapest thing that works is typically the mantra for selecting gear. When Seiko’s 6309 hit the scene, the days were quickly numbered for Swiss watches in military settings, with the 6309 and later Seiko references seeing widespread use in the amphibious military community through the advent of G-Shocks and other capable digital watches in the early 1980s. In many ways, the Seiko 6309 served as the last great mechanical dive watch in broader military circulation, a proud title by any standard. Design & Specs A Navy Diver wears a 6309 on an Olongapo bracelet in 1988. (Photo Credit: US National Archives) No matter how attractive the price, a dive watch trusted by a Navy Diver, SEAL, or US Air Force Pararescueman has to get the job done first and foremost, and that’s exactly what the 6309 did. Measuring somewhere around 44mm across its cushion case and only 45mm in length, the Turtle mastered the challenging task of being large enough for excellent legibility while also fitting well on the vast majority of wrists. A recessed crown at four o’clock was also unobtrusive and worked well with myriad diving suits and for physical training, which SEALs and other special operators seem to enjoy. The author’s 6309 and other ephemera from his USCG service. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) The dial and hands, whose basic design still permeates Seiko’s diving range, were legible day and night, a product of Seiko’s legendary luminescent material. The bezel was tall, with a prominent double row of teeth that could be easily operated with gloves, and also offered fine adjustment with a 60-click bidirectional system in stark contrast to Rolex and Tudor’s friction-fit bezels of the era. The rubber strap was comfortable and long enough for virtually any wearing scenario. A 1970s 6309 issued to SEAL Legend Rudy Boesch and currently owned by Kyle Defoor, a veteran of SEAL Team Six. (Photo Credit: Kyle Defoor) These were all great features to have, but the 6309 movement powering the Turtle was the star of the show. While it lacked hacking—a feature relegated to the JDM 6306—the 6309 earned a reputation for being unstoppable, with many running well for decades without even the slightest hint of a service. Accuracy was hit-and-miss but good enough for most operators in the pre-digital age, and the sheer volume of solid vintage 6309s on the market speaks to the watch’s rugged build. My 6309 From August Of 1980 The author’s 1980 6309-7040. (Photo Credit: Benjamin Lowry) Despite the 6309’s heritage and considerable laurels in the arena of dive watches, much of my fondness for the watch stems from my experiences wearing mine, a birthday gift from my father—who is also a dedicated watch enthusiast—back in 2010, shortly before I joined the Coast Guard. I had a limited understanding of how to wear a vintage watch at the time, and I wore it like it was brand new. 30 years old and likely never serviced beyond some aggressive case polishing, the timekeeping sucked and the lume was toast. Still, the rugged old diver provided so much to like, serving me well over four years at Coast Guard Station San Francisco including no shortage of boat ops. At some point, I became wise enough to get the watch serviced and pressure-tested, which was smart considering my transition into commercial diving. It’s not easy to be as cool as a SEAL wearing a M81 boonie hat in 1987, but a Seiko 6309 is a start. (Photo Credit: US National Archive) I wore the beat-up old Turtle on several scuba and hardhat dives, once again using the watch as the tool it was intended to be when the model was introduced in 1976. Now 44 years old, and despite a collection that now includes watches like the Tudor Pelagos 39, the 6309 still finds its way into the rotation. A watch is never just a watch, and for me, this old Turtle symbolizes not only my own personal history with the military and diving but also a broader decades-long heritage with some of the military’s most elite maritime operators. If you’re a member of the greater W.O.E. community and appreciate dive watches and you haven’t taken the proverbial plunge with a vintage 6309, you’re doing it wrong. Luckily, with decent vintage examples still going for between $500 and $1,000 in many cases, the 6309 is a great opportunity to get into what I would call not only the real Seik-W.O.E but perhaps also the most W.O.E. watch you can get. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: CIA Officer’s Love Affair with the Arabic Seiko
Read MoreThe Watches Worn By SpecOps At An Invite-Only Dive Event
When retired US Navy SEAL and friend of W.O.E. Dave Hall reached out saying he would be attending SOF Dive, an invite-only event for special...
Read MoreWhen retired US Navy SEAL and friend of W.O.E. Dave Hall reached out saying he would be attending SOF Dive, an invite-only event for special operations divers, we told him to keep an eye out for cool watches. If you don’t know Dave, on top of being an old-school frogman, he’s the subject of one of our first and favorite profiles (read HERE). Dave is a dedicated watch enthusiast, and the owner of an incredible SEAL Team-issued Tudor “Snowflake” Submariner backed by a story you’ll have to read to believe. During his career, Dave also conducted a clandestine beach reconnaissance in Haiti in 1994 and deployed numerous times during the Global War On Terror (GWOT), earning a Purple Heart during a firefight on an Iraqi rooftop in 2004 before making an unlikely comeback to full duty. As you may have surmised from this introduction, Dave is the kind of guy who takes his work seriously, and the photos he sent and stories he relayed from SOF Dive were so intriguing we knew we had to share. As we often discuss, many at the tip of the undersea spear rely on Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.) for timing, but Dave’s reporting proves once again there is a thriving community of analog tool watch users ascribing to the “Use Your Tools” ethos in the world of SpecOps, and especially diving. The Real Watches Worn By SOF Divers Dave locking out of a German submarine torpedo tube in 1991 while training with the German Kampfschwimmers. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) By Dave Hall Pre-Dive: As a retired career SEAL and an avid watch aficionado, I keep my eyes peeled for interesting watches on the wrists of interesting people I meet. I recently attended the SOF Dive 2024 event as a strategic advisor for Blueye Robotics, a Norwegian manufacturer of remotely operated vehicles or ROVs. This was the 3rd annual SOF Dive organized by Patriot3 and the second year it was held at the Fantasy Lake Adventure Park in Wake Forest, NC. The venue was perfect for combat swimmers from around the world to handle and dive new gear as well as to interface with the manufacturers of such specialized military diving equipment over the course of three days. SOF Dive presents a rare opportunity for combat divers from around the world to meet in person, test equipment, and talk shop. (Photo Credit: Patriot3, Inc.) Besides the diving, there was ample time to socialize after hours both onsite and at Compass Rose Brewery in nearby Raleigh. As a retired frogman, watch spotter, and Blueye Robotics rep, I was perfectly positioned to observe the various watches used by U.S. and allied special ops frogmen. Let’s dive into the watches of SOF Dive 2024. Leaving Surface: The event was a great opportunity for me to reconnect with some units I had worked with in the past and to discuss current trends in each unit’s equipment selection, mission needs, and watches. In addition to G-Shock and other affordable digital watches, there were more Garmins than I expected and a smattering of interesting analog tool watches, always great to see. German Kampfschwimmer - The Sinn UX S One of my first stops was paying a visit to the Kommando Spezialkräfte Marine (KSM), a unit comprised of individual operators known as Kampfschwimmer or Combat Swimmers, Germany’s equivalent to our SEALs. I was fortunate to work with the Kampfschwimmers during my time in the Teams and learned a tremendous amount from them in Germany at the end of the Cold War in 1991. I saw a few guys jocking up in German Flecktarn camo wetsuits and went over to introduce myself. Asking if they were from Eckernförde and seeing smiles and affirmative nods, I closed in to finalize my bonafides. The author testing the extremely rare HK P11 in Germany in 1991. The rare HK was designed to fire tungsten darts in combat diving scenarios. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) I produced some pics on my phone of my time working with their unit in Germany in the early 90s and before you knew it, we were old friends talking shop. Apparently, the pictures I showed them are still on the walls of their headquarters back home in Germany and they recognized them instantly. With the visual creds established and after dropping some familiar names back and forth, we chatted about old unit members, new gear, and watches. One of the Kampfschwimmer’s Sinn UX S models alongside Dave’s well-worn U2. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) The group that attended SOF Dive was happy to show me their issued Sinn UX S watches, a special unit version of the brand’s oil-filled quartz diver with the crown at ten o’clock as opposed to the traditional four. The UX S issued to Kampfschwimmers is the most recent installment in the unit’s impressive horological history that also includes a special IWC Porsche Design titanium diver known as the Ocean “Bund”, which dates back to my time working with the Germans. The Kampfschwimmer UX S is virtually the same watch issued to GSG 9, Germany’s elite federal police tactical unit, but without a unit logo on the dial. “It’s a little stealthier that way”, the combat divers said with a wink. The KSM’s watch history also includes the titanium IWC Porsche Design Ocean Bund. (Watch Photo Credit: Hairspring) US Army Special Forces Demonstrated by this Special Forces operator wearing a Seamaster Diver 300 in 2023, there are watch nerds throughout the world of Special Operations (Photo Credit: 20th Special Forces Group) More commonly associated with terrestrial operations, US Army Special Forces maintains a comprehensive combat diving capability. Combat Diver qualified Green Berets from the 3rd, 7th, and 10th Special Forces Groups attended SOF Dive 2024. Interestingly, their watches varied from Group to Group. Let’s take a closer look. 10th Special Forces Group - Marathon TSAR Marathon is one of the only brands directly supplying the US Military with analog watches in 2024 (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) Hailing from their Headquarters in Fort Carson, Colorado, combat divers from the 10th Special Forces Group recently won the 2024 USASOC Best Combat Diver Competition held in Key West, Florida. All three members of the 10th SFG(A) attending SOF Dive 2024 displayed their unit-issued Marathon TSARs, each worn on aftermarket nylon straps. Combat divers from 10th Group recently won the 2024 USASOC Best Combat Diver Competition. (Photo Credit: US Army) Analog watches are generally preferred for oxygen rebreather operations by the most accomplished combat divers, so maybe the uniformly-issued TSAR is a small peek at the differentiator that makes 10th SFG (A) excel at the Combat Diver Competition. I’ve crossed paths with 10th Group guys many times in Europe over the years. They’ve always been top-notch, highly professional, and well-led soldiers. Marathon, a popular watch in our community, is well-known for supplying its SAR collection to US and Canadian military forces. 3rd Special Forces Group - A Casio & Garmins Garmin and Casio will always be popular among special operators. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) Two out of three of the operators from 3rd Group went for Garmin with one guy sporting a more rugged Casio, though it wasn’t technically a G-Shock. The Casio was a W736H-1AV and the Garmins appeared to be from the Tactix and Fenix families. The Casio with its easy-to-touch backlight button is great for checking those leg times on combat swimmer dives. According to the guys, Garmin smartwatches are catching on with 3rd Group divers, although I personally would relegate that watch mainly for compressed air dives rather than oxygen rebreather dives. As discussed in a recent Dispatch covering the assassination of former Russian submariner commander Stanislav Rzhitsky (read HERE), connected watches including Garmin and the Apple Watch also pose significant risks. I operated with 3rd SFG (A) in Afghanistan in 2005 and have nothing but admiration for the Army Special Forces men I have worked with from that Group. 7th Special Forces Group - The Timex Ironman Classic 30 A Timex Ironman on the wrist of a 7th Group operator. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) This watch surprised me but makes a certain amount of sense upon further examination. An affordable digital Timex is optimized for an owner who takes fitness seriously while still wanting to blend seamlessly into urban environments. The sole 7th Group guy I met was proud to display his Timex Ironman while his fellow SFers attempted to tease him. All in all, the Ironman isn’t a horrible watch for diving and there are other examples of Timex being used by SEALs and other special operators. Combat swimmer dives are typically rather shallow so the watch is more than adequate as far as watertight integrity. Former US Navy SEALs Jocko Willink (right) wearing a Timex Ironman in the 1990s while re-enlisting legendary SEAL and good friend Thomas “Drago” Dzieran (left). The Indiglo watch light feature attracted a lot of SEAL attention in the late 1980s. I purchased my own Timex before the G-Shocks were issued which were a little more rugged. I didn’t get to the bottom of whether this one was issued or personally purchased. I suppose it could go either way. US Marine Corps 2nd Force Reconnaissance - TAG Heuer, Sangin, & More Garmin A Garmin and a Sangin make a lot of sense, but the TAG Heuer was out of left field. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) With an operational emphasis on amphibious capabilities, it was no surprise to see the men of US Marine Corps Force Reconnaissance in attendance. Their watches were particularly interesting and once again demonstrated that watch enthusiasts are everywhere and by no means uncommon in special operations. Unsurprisingly, one Marine wore a Garmin Fenix Pro, but both of the others served up more obscure choices, with one opting for a GMT version of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer and the other Devil Dog choosing a Kinetic GMT from Sangin, a Marine SOF veteran-owned brand that has been profiled on W.O.E. in the past (read HERE). A couple of deep cuts from the men of USMC Force Recon. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) The use of GMT watches makes a lot of sense given the use of Zulu Time in military and intelligence operations. A Sangin on the wrist of a Marine special operator is also no big shocker given the founder of the company comes from that community, but a seldom-seen GMT version of the modern TAG Heuer Aquaracer is something I never would have expected. I can’t help but wonder what the story is there, and I didn’t get a chance to ask. I was fortunate to work closely with Marine Special Operations Forces during my SEAL career. My SEAL platoon trained with and deployed alongside a 2nd Force Recon Company from 1989 to 1990 and we often interacted with Recon Marines during exercises and deployments in the years following, including Marine Corps SOCOM Det ONE in 2004 while in Iraq. It’s always good to see these guys getting after it outside their quonset huts on Onslow Beach. Oorah, to them. French Commando Hubert - The Garmin Descent Mk2 A Garmin Descent Mk2 was worn by a frogman from the Commando Hubert. Better known for its connection to the Tudor Pelagos FXD, France’s Commando Hubert also utilizes more tech-forward digital smartwatches from Garmin for certain training and operational scenarios. However, when diving with a rebreather, members of the unit indicated they only use analog watches. Still, at least at SOF Dive, the French frogmen we met wore the Garmin Descent Mk2, essentially a hybrid between the Fenix fitness smartwatch and a full-service diving computer. We asked the Commando Hubert divers to wear their FXD watches to next year’s SOF Dive. (Photo Credit: Commando Hubert) Given W.O.E.’s recent release of the Commando Strap, which was designed for the Commando Hubert to use with its Tudor FXD unit watches, we might have preferred to see another two-line FXD in the wild, but it’s possible the operators making the trip to the United States preferred to keep their more expensive Tudor watches at home in Toulon. Of note is the custom camouflage wetsuit worn by Commando Hubert, which is produced by Beuchat, a French diving company associated with the Marine Nationale for decades. My SEAL platoon worked closely with Commando Hubert at the end of the Cold War while deployed in 1991 to Europe before and during a large NATO exercise. The post-exercise drinking in Scotland put my high school French teacher’s laborious instruction to good use. I stuck to English this time around and thankfully their English was much better than my French ever was. Romanian 164th Naval Special Operations - Garmin A Romanian special operator—like many others at SOF Dive—utilized a Garmin for his diving needs. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) The Romanian divers were some of my favorites to speak with on this trip. They, like many of the other divers, utilized a Garmin for their diving needs. However, unlike the other divers at SOF Dive 2024, their country was not on the “good guy” list when I began my career in Naval Special Warfare in the late 1980s. Times change, and in Romania’s case, for the better, thankfully. I thoroughly enjoyed discussing their country with them and just generally affirming that frogmen the world over share a commonality through our experiences on and under the sea in very trying conditions that only those who have “been there and done that” truly understand. I was very honored to receive a challenge coin from the Romanians and wish them the very best. Pararescueman From The 24th Special Tactics Squadron (STS) - Even More Garmin The men of US Air Force Pararescue, commonly known as PJs, are the military’s elite rescue specialists, trained in emergency medicine as well as small unit tactics, diving, parachuting, and mountaineering. To maintain their qualifications, PJs have an intense training schedule, and the PJ I ran into had a picture of his young son displayed as a screensaver on his Garmin. PJs have one of the broadest mission sets in the US Military. (Photo Credit: US Air Force) I’ve worked with PJs in training and abroad. These guys are top-notch medical professionals. One of my SEAL sniper students later crossed decks and became a PJ and another crossed over and became a CCT. It didn’t surprise me in the least to see a JSOC PJ with a technical digital dive watch on his wrist. Naval Special Warfare (NSW) Group 8 Somewhat surprisingly, the SEAL Teams aren’t currently sending frogmen to SOF Dive, but there was a representative from Naval Special Warfare (NSW) Group 8, the parent command for SEAL Delivery Vehicle Team 1 and 2 as well as other specialized reconnaissance units. Members of SEAL Delivery Vehicle Team 1 float in a circle formation after surfacing from an emergency bail-out drill from a dry deck shelter during an exercise in the southern Pacific Ocean in 2012. (Photo Credit: US Navy) The support Navy First Class Diver from NSWG-8 wore his G-Shock to SOF Dive 2024. He explained that his issue watch is a Garmin but it’s a hassle removing the smartwatch when entering the classified workspaces at Group 8, so he generally prefers to wear his G-Shock. His Casio DW6900-1V served him adequately during SOF Dive 2024. As previously discussed in the W.O.E. Dispatch and our new video, G-Shock occupies a prominent position on the wrist of modern special operators, with four Casio G-Shock references earning an NSN or NATO Stock Number meaning the watches can be easily issued to US Military forces. Leaving Bottom, Surfacing, & Post Dive: Watch spotting is always fun. It’s especially fun at events like this. Garmin watches were pretty prevalent on the wrists of many of our allied SOF divers and were worn by numerous units beyond what we have listed here, including the Danish Frogman Corps or Frømandskorpset. That said, analog watches from various manufacturers are still very much out there on the wrists of serious SOF divers. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Pragmatic Journey of a SEAL Through Watch Collecting *Featured image credit: Patriot3, Inc.
Read MoreW.O.E. YouTube: CIA & Special Forces Trading A Rolex For Their Lives
Myth Or Reality? In the Intelligence and Special Operations community, a Rolex is often mentioned as a tool for escape and evasion, serving as a...
Read MoreMyth Or Reality? In the Intelligence and Special Operations community, a Rolex is often mentioned as a tool for escape and evasion, serving as a recognizable item of value that can be traded for a ride to the nearest border or a seat on the last plane out of a war-torn country in an emergency. But has a Rolex ever been used for this purpose or is this simply a myth, a tall tale told over beers? In our new episode on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel, we delve into the myths and realities of trading a Rolex for your life. The concept is simple: Should you find yourself in need of immediate help, the watch can be utilized as a form of currency that can be traded for a few hours of shelter in a basement, a ride to the nearest international border, or a seat on the next plane out of a war-torn nation. A Rolex is easier to carry and less likely to be misplaced than ounces of gold or stacks of hundred-dollar bills. This all tracks, but has it ever happened in a real operational scenario? In this episode, we look to history, pop cultural anecdotes, and our own experiences to discover whether a Rolex has ever actually been traded for an intelligence officer or a special operator’s life. Happy Hunting, - W.O.E.
Read MoreThe CWC SBS - The Watch Of Choice For UK Special Forces
How The British Ministry Of Defence Went From Omega & Rolex To A Blacked-Out Diver From A Small British Brand Where plenty of brands look...
Read MoreHow The British Ministry Of Defence Went From Omega & Rolex To A Blacked-Out Diver From A Small British Brand Where plenty of brands look to establish caché among collectors using overstated connections to the military, CWC is legit, having earned a passionate following among military end users and watch enthusiasts alike. CWC is one of the few analog watches still issued today, which sets it in a special category within the W.O.E. community. Within CWC’s collection, the SBS Diver Issue stands out as a watch with real street cred in our community, having been issued to a Tier One maritime special operations unit and still seeing active service within the British Military today. For a closer look at the dive watch of choice for UKSF, we asked Jonathan Hughes, an avid CWC fan and the operator of CWCaddict.com, for a brief overview of the history of the CWC SBS. SBS Sergeant Paul McGough wearing a CWC SBS at the battle for Qala-I Jangi Prison, Afghanistan in November 2001. By Jonathan Hughes Over the last 70 years, the British Ministry of Defence (MoD) has specified and ordered a variety of dive watches for specialist operators in the British military—starting with Rolex Submariners in the 1950s and early 1960s, the Omega Seamaster 300 in the late 1960s, the Sub again in the 1970s, and CWC from the 1980s onwards along with a smattering of Precistas. The latest iteration of the official MoD special ops diver’s watch, though, is a blacked-out, day-date, quartz diver from CWC. Officially known as the “UKSF” watch, it is commonly referred to as the “SBS” after the unit that first ordered it, the Special Boat Service. The modern CWC SBS Diver Issue. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Once an under-the-radar brand virtually unknown outside the British Military, CWC is now appreciated among enthusiasts as the “watch that replaced the MilSub” thanks to Jason Heaton’s excellent article in Hodinkee. The story goes that when the MoD was looking for a more cost-effective replacement for the Rolex Submariner, they turned to CWC, a business set up in 1972 by Ray Mellor exclusively to supply military and government contracts. By the end of that decade, CWC had produced and supplied around 40,000 general service watches, chronographs, stopwatches, and pocket watches, but no diver’s watches as of yet. A Royal Navy Clearance diver wearing a CWC in the 1980s. In 1980, CWC delivered its first batch of a new watch dubbed the Royal Navy Diver. Taking inspiration from the Omega Seamaster 300 with a 3-6-9 dial, a big triangle at 12, sword hands, fixed lug bars, and a fully graduated bezel, the CWC RN Diver was initially supplied with a Swiss automatic caliber in 1980 and 1981 before changing over to a quartz movement starting in 1983. The watches were issued to and worn by Royal Navy clearance divers, ships’ divers, and the Special Boat Service (SBS), with some of the earliest issued examples seeing service in the Falklands War of 1982. An early 1981 CWC RN Divers watch issued to the SBS. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) The widespread use of these watches by Royal Navy divers led to a request from the SBS for a specially designed version for their unique use case. The stainless steel cases were to be blackened to make them more stealthy and non-reflective for night-time operations. A day and date function was also added, intended to help keep track of the day whilst on longer missions. Legend has it that the black case was inspired by Royal Marines based in Hong Kong who had their steel dive watches black-coated locally, but as no Royal Navy divers have yet surfaced with a black coating, this is probably just a legend. When the UK Special Forces directorate was formed in 1987 to bring together the command of the SAS, the SRS (Special Reconnaissance Service), and the SBS, its name was changed from Special Boat Squadron to Special Boat Service. At this time, the specification for the watch that would become the CWC SBS was drawn up. A modern 1987 Reissue CWC SBS (left) and an original from 1988 (right) pictured on top of the UKSF “Watch, Wrist, Divers, Day and Date Electronic” specification from 1987. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes/CWC) The specification for “Watch, Wrist, Divers, Day and Date Electronic” was signed in April 1987 by the officer commanding the Operational Research Unit of the Royal Marines in Poole, the home base of the SBS. It called for a watch “of rugged construction and able to withstand submersion, shock, and vibrations incident to service use in sea depths down to 300 metres”. It would have a case “manufactured from high-quality corrosion-resistant non-magnetic stainless steel finished to a durable matte black” and a “rotatable elapsed time bezel capable of being turned and set by hand. The outer edge of the bezel is to be knurled sufficiently to allow turning under wet conditions with a gloved hand.” Tritium was used for the luminous material on the hands and dial, and the dial was marked with a circled T to denote the presence of the radioactive luminescent material. Tests for water resistance, shock, impact resistance, and accuracy were all strictly defined. A 1988 CWC SBS with an acrylic bezel. (Photo Credit: CWC) The first run of 100 CWC SBS watches was delivered in 1988 and was assigned a new NATO Stock Number (NSN) of 6645-99-7995443 as well as being marked with 0552, the Royal Navy’s purchasing code at the time. In contrast to later models, the earliest examples featured an acrylic bezel insert, similar to the early automatic Royal Navy watches. The next batch wasn’t produced until 1992, with another 150 watches being supplied. The bezel was changed to a metal insert with wide hash marks similar in style to the previous acrylic bezel. 1992 CWC issue watches. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) Through the 1990s and into 2000, another 750 watches were supplied with the Royal Navy purchasing code changing from 0552 to 0555 from 1993 onwards. As well as the SBS, operators from the SAS were also issued these watches. CWC SBS watches were worn by British Special Forces in all the major conflicts of the next 20 years — in both Gulf Wars, and famously in Afghanistan by Sergeant Paul McGough at the battle for Qala-I Jangi Prison in November 2001. Special Boat Service operator Stephen Burns wearing an issued CWC SBS in Afghanistan. Around 2000, the MoD discontinued the old-school Royal Navy watch, which had been issued alongside the SBS throughout the 1990s, making the SBS the default-issued dive watch in the British Military. Another 500 SBS watches were ordered in 2001, delivered in three batches over the next two to three years with small variations in the bezel and caseback markings. These were issued more broadly to divers in the British Army’s Royal Engineers, showing the broader distribution beyond the special operations community. In 2005, another 250 watches were ordered specifically for the Royal Engineers—the first 100 were repurposed from a batch made in 2004 that had been marked with the Royal Navy’s 0555 code, some of which had been sold over the counter to civilians at Silvermans, a popular source of MoD surplus. In this batch, the 0555 was crossed out, and W10 (the code for the British Army) was marked above that. The second 150 were manufactured with W10 markings, the only time that a CWC dive watch has been factory-marked “W10”. Issued examples of the CWC SBS from 2005. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) With a total of around 1,600 issued watches between 1988 and 2005, an issued SBS from this era is not a common watch by any means but also not offensively rare if you are a collector looking to track one down. A good, legitimate issued SBS with the circled T on the dial can still be had for under £2,000 (around $2,500) although some years and variations are rarer and more sought after than others. In 2004 and 2008, batches of SBS watches that were identical to issued examples were also produced for the civilian marketplace, serving as an indistinguishable and cheaper alternative to the “real thing”. In fact, some of these “civvie” watches still ended up on the wrists of serving military and police, so you could argue there’s really no difference at all. A Royal Navy Clearance Diver wearing a CWC SBS. For over a decade, the MoD placed no further orders for CWCs, purchasing a mix of other civilian-spec dive watches, including several Citizen models and G-Shocks. But in 2016, orders for the CWC SBS were restarted, with some watches marked 2014 and 2015 being supplied as a trial batch and larger scale orders starting in 2017 and continuing today. Still used by the SBS, the watch is now also supplied to a broader range of units and roles, including to the Paras, the Royal Marines, Royal Navy specialists, the Royal Engineers, and the Submarine Service. A 2015 CWC SBS Issued to the MoD. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) Over the years, CWC has upgraded the SBS albeit in a subtle fashion. The luminous material that was once tritium is now Super-LumiNova. The crystal is now sapphire instead of mineral glass, and the bezel now rotates with 120 clicks instead of 60 clicks, small changes that add up to a more durable and premium-feeling watch. Still, the modern CWC SBS is more or less the same design as the original in 1988, and you can still buy one directly from CWC that is identical to the current issued examples. As mentioned in the Dispatch detailing the US Military’s relationship with Marathon, issued analog diver’s watches in active military service are few and far between. W.O.E.’s personal 1990's Tritium dial CWC SBS (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) For the British Military, the CWC SBS stands out as a design that was developed for elite special operators in the 1980s, earning a reputation as a dependable diving tool over the decades. Despite massive leaps and bounds in technology in many other areas, the CWC SBS—a straightforward quartz dive watch made in Switzerland—remains in active service, still worn and trusted in the field by the British Military. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Special Boat Service OMEGA Seamaster About The Author: Jonathan Hughes is a UK-based collector of British military and independent watches. His fascination with CWC started when he saw an early automatic Royal Navy dive watch at a London auction some years ago, and realised that a British company had been quietly supplying watches to the Ministry of Defence for many decades, at that time almost unknown to the wider watch collecting world. His CWC collection now numbers around 300 watches and clocks, and he founded and runs the cwcaddict.com website and blog. He is on Instagram at @jjhughes1969 and reposts CWC photos on @cwc_addict.
Read MoreFrench SpecOps, Tudor FXD, & The Commando Strap
How Zulu Alpha & W.O.E. Developed A Strap For The Commando Hubert’s Tudor Unit Watches In the Watches of Espionage space, the Tudor Pelagos FXD...
Read MoreHow Zulu Alpha & W.O.E. Developed A Strap For The Commando Hubert’s Tudor Unit Watches In the Watches of Espionage space, the Tudor Pelagos FXD reigns supreme as the apex predator of dive watches. Developed in partnership with the Commando Hubert Combat Swimmers, the French equivalent to the US Navy SEALs, the FXD is an unapologetic tool watch with legible snowflake hands, a purpose-designed bezel, and fixed lugs. We have discussed Tudor’s extensive relationship with the military and intelligence community and the FXD is the latest example of the over seven-decade-long partnership. A Commando Hubert operator tests a prototype of the Commando Strap on a training dive. The Commando Strap Earlier this year we were approached by an intermediary with a unique requirement: the French Commando Hubert Combat Swimmers wanted to design a strap for their FXDs. The request was simple. The operators required a practical dive strap that honored the legacy of the past, when the French Navy used parachute webbing to fashion in-field made straps for their Tudor MilSubs. The elastic strap would be used in the field and underwater on their “two line” Pelagos FXDs, as well as a commemorative watch that remains confidential. We immediately said yes and called our friends at Zulu Alpha Straps in the United Kingdom when we set about prototyping and field testing the strap based on feedback and requirements from the Combat Swimmers. The result is The Commando Strap, a sterile strap constructed with UK-produced elastic webbing and a unique French Rapco buckle system specifically requested by the operators. With Commando Hubert’s support, we are pleased to offer a version of this strap to the community, which is available HERE. A Tudor Pelagos FXD on a prototype Commando Strap made from vintage parachute elastic webbing. (Photo Credit: Zulu Alpha) The Marine Nationale & Tudor Partnership - A History Lesson In our community, heritage matters. The Commando Hubert Strap is heavily inspired by the longstanding relationship between Tudor and the French Navy, known as the Marine Nationale. This partnership, officially announced on May 4th, 2021 with the launch of the Pelagos FXD, celebrated nearly seven decades of collaboration. The origins of this relationship date back to 1956 when Tudor first supplied the Submariners to the Marine Nationale for field testing by their elite divers. These early watches, including the famed references 7922 and 7923, were lauded for their precision and water resistance. Over the next few decades, Tudor continually refined its designs to meet the exacting standards of naval operations. Notably, in 1958, the introduction of the reference 7924, or "Big Crown," marked a significant advancement with its new case and enhanced water resistance up to 200 meters. The evolution continued with the 7928 model, which introduced protective shoulders around the crown, a critical design enhancement for underwater activities. A Marine Nationale diver wearing a "Big Crown" Submariner in the late 1950s. The adaptation reached a pinnacle in the late 1960s with the debut of the "Snowflake" Submariners, designed specifically for improved visibility in murky underwater environments. These models featured Snowflake hands and later “Mercedes” hands and continued to be issued through various iterations until the mid-1990s. They have become both collectible and iconic in the world of dive and military watches. Marine Nationale Pelagos FXD “Two-Line” Pelagos FXD on a special dive strap used to connect swimming pairs. The original blue Pelagos FXD was developed in partnership with the French Commando Hubert, featuring a bidirectional countdown bezel, strap slots cut into the titanium case, and a specialized dive strap with a D-ring to connect swimming pairs. The blue dial and bezel were practical choices for underwater visibility but also a nod to the blue snowflake Marine Nationale-issued watches of the 1970s. The main difference between the civilian and French SOF versions is the limited “two line” text on the dial of the unit versions and the unit versions are available in an LHD, or left-hand drive format. Of note, these watches are not issued, but purchased by each operator individually. Commando Hubert Marine Nationale FXD paired with a Commando strap prototype. To mark the 100th graduation of the French Navy’s Diving School, Commando Hubert commissioned 100 Tudor watches outfitted with a special version of the Commando Strap produced using vintage material. Each of these straps is crafted from historical new old stock parachute webbing and presented in a box designed to mimic the look of a rebreather unit, paying homage to the diving equipment used by the Marine Nationale both then and now. Development Of The Commando Strap The Commando Strap utilizes a reproduction webbing and a special quick-release buckle made in France. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) The unit expressed a need for a durable strap that incorporated a robust buckle system capable of quick release, crucial for the high-stakes scenarios faced by navy divers. A French-made buckle leveraged for other gear items by French SOF became central to the design. Used in a number of applications by French SOF, these buckles were the perfect utilitarian way to fasten the new straps while offering quick-release functionality. The buckles, sourced directly from France as directed by the Commanding Officer of Commando Hubert, are very secure and have been tried and tested for many years in arduous environments. They are extremely dependable but will chip and patina with use, creating a unique and worn look. The open gate slider buckle that allows the Commando Strap to be used with fixed lugs was also sourced from the UK and executed in stainless steel at the Commando Hubert’s request. The Commando Hubert requested we source a specific French-made buckle familiar to the unit from their load-bearing equipment. The development process involved extensive prototyping to ensure the strap could be seamlessly affixed to watches with fixed lug bars, such as the Pelagos FXD, and adjustable so that they can be extended to fit over wetsuits for operations and training. The Commando Strap was rigorously field-tested by divers in extreme conditions to guarantee its long-term performance. Similar to the vintage straps used by the Marine Nationale, the Commando Strap is 21mm in width, capable of working well with both 20mm and 22mm lugs as well as fixed lugs without looking out of place. 21mm is the width of the traditional parachute straps. A diver from the Commando Hubert tests a prototype of the Commando Strap on his two-line Tudor Pelagos FXD. Aesthetic Appeal The Commando strap features elastic parachute webbing paired with French-made buckles, joined in a design that is both historically rich and functionally superior. The strap’s registered design system allows for easy adjustment and secure fastening, crucial for maintaining performance in the unpredictable environments encountered by military divers. The aesthetic of the strap complements the rugged functionality with a nod to its historical origins. Two versions of the strap were made, one with vintage French Navy parachute webbing and a reproduction version using new custom elastic webbing produced in the UK. The Commando Strap available now is constructed with reproduction webbing while a highly-limited drop utilizing vintage French parachute webbing will be announced at a later date. A diver from the Commando Hubert during prototyping for the Commando Strap. The webbing for the regular production straps was replicated meticulously by Darren at Zulu Alpha Straps in collaboration with a UK-based mill, ensuring that each piece is a faithful homage to the original material used by the French Navy. A Rich Legacy The Commando Hubert Strap is set to become a true collectible item among collectors and enthusiasts alike, bridging the gap between the past and the present, and forging a new chapter in the storied history of military use of wristwatches. Beyond its historical value, the strap is an embodiment of the “Use Your Tools” ethos, designed from the ground up in collaboration with elite military divers to create a useful tool to pair with any capable watch. The Commando Strap is made from UK-made reproduction webbing. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) The Commando Strap is more than an accessory—it is a piece of history crafted into a form that meets the modern-day demands of navy divers. As this strap wraps around the wrists of today's adventurers, it carries with it the legacy of innovation, a spirit of endurance, and a continuous commitment to excellence. This strap is not just a part of a watch; it is a vital instrument for those who believe in using their tools and honoring the legacy of those who came before us. BUY HERE: Zulu Alpha x W.O.E. Commando Strap If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.
Read MoreSpecial Forces, CIA, & A Seiko 6105
How A Tier One Cold War Operator Evolved Into A Watch Collector James Stejskal had a long and storied career in Army Special Forces, Detachment...
Read MoreHow A Tier One Cold War Operator Evolved Into A Watch Collector James Stejskal had a long and storied career in Army Special Forces, Detachment A in Berlin, and with the Central Intelligence Agency, In this Dispatch, he shares some of his stories and the tools he used. Late October 1980 - Operation Storm Cloud (Iran II) Rehearsal I checked my watch. We were an hour into the flight, and I hoped the pilot knew where the hell we were because I had no clue. Somewhere over the panhandle of Florida at about 500’ AGL (Above Ground Level) was all I knew because it was black outside. I could see lights from small towns and occasionally the glow of some city far away to the south. We were flying a complex course, or at least the pilot was, wearing his NVGs. I had no intention of bothering him as there was no co-pilot—the port side controls had been removed from the OH-6 “Little Bird” to make room for my partner, Jon, with his collection of guns: a M-16, a M-79 grenade launcher, at least two pistols, and a bunch of ammo. In the back, there was just me and my HK21, a thousand rounds of linked 7.62, two LAWs (Light Anti-tank Weapons), and two Claymores on a rucksack frame, along with a 9mm Walther P-5 and my trusty CZ-75 as back-up. There were only three of us on board—we needed room for at least one passenger on the way out. A General Issue (GI) Hamilton similar to the one worn by the author during training for Operation Stormcloud. I looked at my Hamilton again, the glowing numbers and hands told me it had been exactly two minutes since the last time I checked. The ride was smooth. I watched the pilot, his face barely illuminated with the green light from the goggles, and imagined how tense he must be flying in formation with 11 other helicopters. I knew the others were close as I could occasionally see the sweep of their blades disturbing the air just beyond our own rotors. I was tense, but as a passenger, there’s nothing you can do but trust these guys, the best pilots in the world. This was our final, live-fire rehearsal. If we got the go-ahead, we’d soon be heading for the Middle East on a C-5A loaded with all of us and our Little Birds. The pilot came over the intercom, “Stand by. We’re going in.” Safeties came off as I quickly checked the issued Hamilton once more. It told me what I wanted to know. “On time, On target.” Task Force 158 Helos (OH-6) practicing for Operation Stormcloud in 1980. (Photo Credit: James Stejskal) The helo shuddered as it flared into a hover some 50 feet above the ground. The clouds parted and our target was illuminated by the full moon. I picked out my targets, and pulled the trigger. To the right and left I saw the sky light up as orange strings of tracer fire descended from each bird in line as we settled to the ground. Operation Stormcloud had been unleashed. — I never much cared about watches growing up. It was only at the age of 16, after I had earned my civilian SCUBA diver rating, that I started considering what kind of watch I needed. The dive instructor made us understand that divers had to have a good timepiece—accurate, waterproof, and pressure-resistant instruments—to time their dives. My first dive watch was a Swiss-made Doxa, and the only way I paid for it was with an employee discount from the dive shop where I worked plus a lot of overtime. A vintage Doxa Sub 300 similar to the one worn by the author. (Photo Credit: Analog:Shift) I managed to lose that watch not on a dive per se but testing my bravery by jumping into the spillway of a dam. Kingsley Dam on Lake McConaughy in Nebraska was the second largest hydraulic-fill dam in the world when it was completed in 1941. When one of the Park Rangers told us the water comes out below the dam at over 100 miles per hour, I was prompted to say, “Hold my beer,” and test it by leaping in. I survived but on my third jump, the Doxa decided we would part ways and it disappeared into the tumultuous waters. I suspect it’s still down there with the catfish somewhere. The Death of a Doxa. (Photo Credit: James Stejskal) Moving along, I evidently either failed to learn from my experiences or I just needed more adventures. I signed up for Army Special Forces after I convinced myself that a college education wasn’t getting me anywhere. During selection and training, I continuously heard the mantra that to be truly Special Forces you had to have a Randall Knife, a star-sapphire ring, and a Rolex. But as a “Spec 4” Light Weapons Leader on my first A-Team, the only thing I could manage was the Randall Knife and that was only because my Dad gave his to me—the same one my Mom gave him before he went to Europe in 1944 to visit Adolf. So I went without the Rolex. Most of my old photographs show me without any watch at all. Members of the 39th Special Forces Detachment or “Det A” during ski training in the Alps. Then I was posted to a classified unit in Berlin, Germany. Called “Detachment A” or “Det A,” it was in reality the 39th Special Forces Detachment. We had some interesting missions back then. Urban unconventional warfare (UW) was one, which was essentially getting ready for World War III and conducting stay-behind operations in Berlin and the DDR (East Germany) much like what the Office of Strategic Services (OSS) did in the last World War. Our other mission was Counter-Terrorism (CT), which we picked up in 1975 as the U.S. European Command’s CT Force. You need to remember this was in the nascent stages of America’s war on terror, and we were developing what would become the tactics, techniques, and procedures that seem so common today. A Seiko 6105-8110 similar to the one purchased by the author after attending Special Forces Underwater Operations School. (Photo Credit: Analog:Shift) With access to the Post Exchange now and having completed the rather arduous Special Forces Underwater Operations School, I decided a new dive watch was in order. I considered a Rolex but it cost around $400 in the PX. So, on the recommendation of a teammate, I decided to buy a Seiko. It was a Model 6105-8110. I seem to remember it cost me around $150—still a pretty hefty sum when you’re only earning around $600 a month, with jump pay, and after taxes and buying a lot of beer downtown. But I was a sergeant and could almost afford it. I know the Rolex would have been a good investment but with my luck… well, read on. And, in retrospect, the Rolex might have attracted too much attention. Even so, my Seiko got more use ensuring I was inside the 4-minute window for an asset meeting on a dark street, making a split-second car pick-up, maybe figuring out the burn rate for a demolition fuse, or synchronizing operations when a radio couldn’t be used. Monitoring my dive time was more of a secondary role. The author preparing a steel cutting charge on the range with his Seiko on the wrist. (Photo Credit: Bob Hopkins) From time to time, Det A operators would ride on what were called “Tours” with the U.S. Military Liaison Mission (USMLM). Essentially, it was a monitoring organization that kept tabs on the Warsaw Pact in East Germany while the Soviets (SOXMIS) kept tabs on us in West Germany. The Brits and the French had their own versions of the mission (BRIXMIS and MMFL, respectively). Keeping accurate time and knowing your location was paramount on what could be a dangerous mission in the enemy’s backyard. Artist’s rendering of Major Arthur D. "Nick" Nicholson, Jr, who was killed while conducting intelligence operations with the U.S. Military Liaison Mission (USMLM) in the DDR. One American and one French officer were killed while on tours in the DDR, and several others were badly injured. The photo shows one of my comrades on a tour in East Germany. He was a MACV-SOG (Military Assistance Command, Vietnam – Studies and Observations Group) veteran, had good taste in watches, and was incidentally also the guy who told me to buy a Seiko. I wore the watch everywhere, in training, on jumps, and on all our missions except one. In late 1979, we were put on alert for a mission that would come to be known as Operation Eagle Claw. For that mission, we were all issued olive-green Hamiltons, the watch I wore in the above rehearsal. Det A soldier on a USMLM Tour near the Polish Border wearing a Seiko 6105 and a Waltham (WCC) wrist compass. (Photo Credit: A USMLM Member) Throughout the rest of 1979 and most of 1980, our training was almost completely oriented around direct action operations—the tactics we would need to enter Iran and bring out the American hostages being held there. We were working in concert with another, perhaps more famous unit from Fort Bragg that I won’t mention here other than to say that they outnumbered us 8:1. The “other outfit” had responsibility for freeing over 50 hostages at the American Embassy in Tehran, while our smaller force was to take down the Iranian Foreign Ministry and exfiltrate three senior American diplomats being held there. Hard doesn’t describe the preparation for the mission. But it was intense and it was fun. Day and night Close Quarter Battle (CQB) training, helicopter and vehicle ops, and explosive entries. With no guardrails and an open budget, in a very short time period, our 40-some soldiers used more small-arms ammunition than the yearly allotment for the entire Berlin Brigade. The author wearing his Seiko during CQB training. (Photo Credit: James Stejskal) When Eagle Claw went down on the 24th and 25th of April in 1980, only 13 members of “Det A” participated. The rest of us got to sit it out in Berlin, waiting interminably for what turned out very badly when helicopter after helicopter failed and the op was scrubbed. In the withdrawal, eight Americans died, but as a group of British soldiers said, “At least [they] had the guts to try.” For the rest of that year, we rehearsed an up-gunned version of “Eagle Claw” called “Stormcloud” but it was ultimately scrubbed just before Ronald Reagan was inaugurated. I think my GI Hamilton went back to the S-4. The author wearing his General Issue Hamilton at Elgin Air Force Base in 1980. (Photo Credit: James Stejskal) Diving wasn’t in the cards much after that, but I was still traveling extensively overseas. One thing I learned was that wearing an expensive watch in “Third World” countries can lead to some undesired attention, not from the authorities, but from the criminal elements. I would often swap out my “good” watch for my field watch when “going downtown.” Losing a simple Timex Expedition was preferable to losing my treasured Seiko. I went through several Expeditions because they made great gifts for admiring locals who might prove helpful at a later point in time. I failed to follow that rule just once and it was curtains for the watch. My Seiko met the end of its days in Somalia when I had the unfortunate experience of being in an Isuzu Trooper when we rolled over a Soviet anti-tank mine. I lost a good friend that day but three of us survived. When I awoke on board the USS Tripoli, I found I had also lost my Seiko. I served a while longer and then punched out with 23 years after I got married. Not too long after that, I was recruited by what we in the military euphemistically called the “Other Government Agency” or OGA. For the next 15 years, I was practicing what some call “God’s Work” doing interesting things in interesting places around the world. The author wearing his Timex Expedition in the Bush. (Photo Credit: WLN) All the while, I admired the upper-echelon watches but couldn’t commit to buying one. Instead, I relied on my Timex Expeditions, which changed as often as I gave them away. That is until one day, my wife gave me a TAG. Officially it’s a TAG Heuer Link WAT1111, and it’s special because it’s the only retirement gift I received—plus it was for my birthday. It’s my “EDC/go-to” watch, although I have a couple of stand-ins for rough duty days. The author’s TAG Heuer Link is now his go-to everyday watch. Once I retired, I moved on to different pastures; consulting a bit, delivering talks to active duty folks on everything from Cold War history to a bit of spook stuff. I still do that but I also have become an author. Now I put my love of history and adventure to good use by telling the true and almost true stories of special operators like T.E. Lawrence of Arabia (who wore an Omega Chronograph, by the way) all the way up to my comrades who participated in Operation Eagle Claw as I do in my history MISSION IRAN. My fiction, or faction as I call it, tells the stories of Special Forces operators during the Cold War and after in my novels The Snake Eater Chronicles. Timing is often critical in these tales and interesting watches come into play quite often. Senator Ted Kennedy speaks with Medal of Honor recipient and then-Major Paris Davis during a visit to Vietnam in the late 1960s. Davis was a Rolex guy. (Photo Credit: Davis Family) The last picture is an important memory for me. One day last year, I was at the National Museum of the U.S. Army with a friend and found one of the displays closed. A docent told me the museum was interviewing a recent Medal of Honor winner, Colonel Paris Davis. I decided to wait until he was finished because Davis had been my commander when I served in the 10th Special Forces Group in the mid-1970s. I wasn’t sure if he’d remember me—I had changed a bit—but as he departed the exhibit hall, I met him with a salute. I told him who I was and a smile appeared on his face as he said my nickname. He had remembered. We had a nice chat and as you can see, he knows what watch to wear. He has his Rolex while I have my TAG. The author reuniting with his commander, Medal of Honor Awardee Colonel Paris Davis, at the National Museum of the US Army. The author wears his TAG Heuer while Colonel Davis wears a Rolex GMT Master. (Photo Credit: R. Pierce Reid) Sometimes, I find myself thinking about my old time-pieces. I’ve considered finding a vintage Seiko 6150 or even a GI-issue watch to replace them, but then I realized they wouldn’t have the same meaning as my originals. The one watch I’m closest to now—and really, the only one I need—is the TAG my wife gifted me. A couple of the author's books, some mementos from his service, and his TAG Heuer watch. (Photo Credit: James Stejskal) About The Author: James Stejskal is a uniquely qualified novelist and historian backed by 35 years of service with US Army Special Forces and the Central Intelligence Agency. He is the author of Special Forces Berlin: Clandestine Cold War Operations of the US Army's Elite, 1956-1990 and Masters of Mayhem: Lawrence of Arabia and the British Military Mission to the Hejaz. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Vietnam MACV-SOG Seikos: Setting the Record Straight *As a disclaimer, as Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases. When you click on links to various books in this article and make a purchase, this can result in Watches of Espionage earning a commission. If you’re interested in these books and want to make a purchase using these links, we appreciate your support.
Read MoreDigital Watches Of The Global War On Terror
From G-Shock To Garmin, Digital Watches Have Served At The Forefront Of Modern Warfare Whether watch nerds like it or not, digital tool watches (D.T.W.)...
Read MoreFrom G-Shock To Garmin, Digital Watches Have Served At The Forefront Of Modern Warfare Whether watch nerds like it or not, digital tool watches (D.T.W.) have usurped their analog and mechanical siblings in the vast majority of military, law enforcement, and intelligence scenarios. Looking beyond the prominent subset of watch enthusiasts in our community who embody the “Use Your Tools” ethos by way of any number of “luxury” timepieces, most regular humans in need of a capable watch look to attainable digital watches from a few prominent brands including G-Shock, Garmin, Suunto, and others For watches associated with the military, no crucible provides better proof of utility than sustained service in combat, with some of history’s most legendary designs influenced by their use in global conflicts. Where the Vietnam War served as a proving ground for legends including the Rolex and Tudor Submariner, certain Seiko models, and the Tornek-Rayville TR-660, modern digital watches in many ways came into their own during the Global War On Terror (GWOT), a period spanning two decades after the terrorist attacks on September 11th, 2001. A US Army Special Forces operator wearing a Suunto Vector in Afghanistan during the GWOT. During combat and intelligence operations in Iraq, Afghanistan, and numerous other theaters, digital tool watches evolved from the basic G-Shock models that were in many respects unchanged from the original 1983 DW-5000C to the full suite of modern tactical and outdoor-oriented smartwatches from brands like Garmin and Suunto. In this Dispatch, we’ll discuss some of the most impactful digital watches utilized by SpecOps, military, and intelligence professionals during the Global War On Terror, leaning into photographic evidence, anecdotal examples from members of the community, and records detailing military and government purchase orders. If you’re into LARPing—you know who you are—or just solid digital watches, most of these models are still readily available and impressively inexpensive. Casio F91W - $23 A model we once called “The Preferred Watch Of Terrorists”, the legendary Casio F91W is among the most successful watches of all time, having sold over 120 million units since its debut in 1993, typically for well under $20 a pop. In contrast to many of the watches to follow, the F91W is known for its use on both sides of the GWOT including not only US and coalition forces but also insurgents and terrorists including none other than Usama bin Laden right up until his brief meeting with SEAL Team Six in 2011. A female TEO operator of Germany’s Kommando Spezialkräfte (KSK) wearing a Casio F91W in 2021. In addition to its use on the wrist, the F91W also served as what is known in national security circles as “dual-use technology,” something that at an initial glance has a legitimate civilian utility but can also be used for military or paramilitary applications, i.e. as a timer for an IED, pipe bomb, or shaped charge. Perhaps held back by its smaller 35.2mm wide by 38.2mm long case, poor backlight, and limited water resistance, the F91W never became a popular option for official military procurement but has still served as the cheapest thing that works, easily purchased at the PX or on the economy by countless service members—and terrorists—over the years. Casio Pro-Trek - $280-500 A USAF Pararescueman of the 23rd Special Tactics Squadron wears a Casio Pro-Trek while conducting in-water training in 2012. Technically unrelated to the G-Shock beyond having the same parent organization in Casio, Pro-Trek also has one of the most impressive service records of any digital watch during the Global War On Terror. Having been selected by countless special operators and conventional troops, the Pro-Trek takes a small step from being just a basic timepiece to something more with integrated “ABC” or altimeter, barometer, and compass functions that—at least in a pinch—assist with way-finding in austere combat situations without requiring Bluetooth or other network connectivity that could compromise the wearer. Retired US Navy SEAL Dave Hall wearing a Casio Pro-Trek in Afghanistan. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) Despite only being rated to 100 meters of water resistance in most instances, the Pro-Trek was still often the watch of choice for amphibious military members including retired US Navy SEAL Dave Hall who often wore a Pro-Trek on his deployments to Iraq and Afghanistan. Digging into government records, Pro-Trek references PAW 1500-1V, PAG240-1, PRW2500-1A, and 130-1T were all purchased through government channels during the GWOT, mostly by Wright-Patterson Air Force Base, which is a major testing and supply hub for the broader US Air Force. G-Shock From left to right, the DW5600-1V, DW6600-1V, and DE6900-1V are some of the most commonly purchased G-Shock models by military organizations. There was, as you’d expect, no shortage of G-Shocks used by service members during the GWOT. Dating back to 1983, the G-Shock revolutionized the watch industry by presenting a level of durability that was previously unthinkable for watches. With a basic case concept conceived by iconic Casio designer Kikuo Ibe after seeing a child bouncing a rubber ball, the original parameters for the G-Shock called for “Triple 10” resistance, meaning the watch needed to be able to survive a fall from 10 meters, resist water pressure to 10 atmospheres (100 meters), and provide 10 years of battery life. SOCCOM purchased 1000 units of G-Shock model G9000-1V in 2014 despite the reference’s lack of an NSN. (Photo Credit: US Navy) Catching on with military, law enforcement, and emergency professionals, the G-Shock has evolved over the years to include a wide variety of smartwatch-style functions. Still, while other more complicated G-Shock models have been purchased on a unit basis, only four basic references have been awarded an NSN or NATO Stock Number, making them readily available for military procurement and issue. All four also saw active service during the GWOT, as did non-NSN models including the Mudman (G9000-1V), which was ordered by the United States Special Operations Command (USSOCOM) in 2014 in separate orders of 400 and 600 units. DW5600-1V - $75 A USAF Combat Controller wearing a DW5600-1V in Afghanistan. A direct descendant of the original G-Shock, the DW5000C, the DW5600-1V was introduced in 1996. Often the least expensive G-Shock on the market at around $40, the 5600 provides one of the smallest and least obtrusive wearing experiences of any Shock, coming in at 48.9 by 42.8mm wide by 48.9mm long by 13.4mm thick. Given its entry-level price point, the suite of functions is simple by modern digital standards but does provide just about everything the basic military member could ever need while also offering G-Shock’s legendary durability. In the GWOT’s early years, this was the most commonly spotted watch on members of the military and intelligence services, even playing a role in CIA’s early anti-terror efforts in Afghanistan. DW6600-1V - Discontinued A young Chris Kyle on deployment wearing the Casio G-Shock DW6600-1V. Commonly associated with Chris Kyle, the US Navy SEAL who inspired 2014’s American Sniper, the DW6600-1V will always be considered the GWOT Navy SEAL watch. Beyond the utility, the DW6600 also became part of Team Guy culture. According to former SEAL Rob Huberty, “One of my proudest days at BUDS was when I went from a naked wrist to an issued G-Shock. In SEAL training, you aren’t allowed to wear a watch until you earn it. We weren’t allowed to wear our uniforms in town, but when I saw Team Guys in Coronado, their sleeve tattoos and G-Shocks were a dead giveaway.” Former US Navy SEAL, Harvard-educated medical doctor, and current astronaut Jonny Kim wearing a DW6600-1V on deployment in Iraq. From a use-case perspective, the DW6600-1V was a near-perfect choice for the SEALs, with the watch’s stopwatch feature working as a dive timer, a powerful backlight with a large button, and more durability than most could ever need. Some even say the little fin-shaped indices on the display could be used to time fin kicks during underwater navigational scenarios. Surprisingly, the classic version of the DW6600-1V has been discontinued since 2010, with Naval Special Warfare Command placing what was likely its final order for this specific reference in 2009 referencing a SEAL Qualification Training (SQT) supply list. The similarly styled DW6900-1V has largely taken its place, but we would argue a reissue is in order. DW6900-1V - $85 A DW6900-1V in its military-specific packaging shows the NSN for “Watch, Wrist” at the top. (Photo Credit: Reddit) The successor to the DW6600, the 6900-series swapped the fin-shaped elements on its display for a trio of tiny circles visually indicating the passing seconds while maintaining the proven case and strap format. Another commonly purchased item across the US Military, the basic DW6900 now seems to be one of the defacto purchase orders for any unit or organization looking for a solid digital watch including members of the SpecOps community. A USAF Pararescuemen wears a DW6900-1V in 2015. (Photo Credit: US Air Force) DW9052-1V - $75 A Force Recon Marine wearing a DW9052-1V in 2013. (Photo Credit: US Marine Corps) A G-Shock more commonly spotted during the second half of the GWOT is the DW9052-1V, which provides several key differences compared to the aforementioned models. For one, the 9052 utilizes larger square plastic buttons that are significantly easier to operate with gloves while also having hinged lugs more like a traditional watch, meaning the interface between the case and strap isn’t as stiff as other G-Shocks. Like the 6600 and 6900, the 9052 provides an easily accessed front light button. Despite being initially launched in 1995 and relaunched in 2011, the 9052 series does not appear to have found widespread military use until the tail end of the GWOT on terror, now being commonly spotted on the wrist of select military divers in particular, which stands to reason as the 9052 was a standard issue gear item for students attending a variety of diving courses at the Naval Diving and Salvage Training Center (NDSTC) for years. For a complete look at the US Military’s history with G-Shock, click HERE. Other Brands: Beneath the long shadow cast by Casio and the G-Shock collection in particular, several other brands made inroads into the digital tool watch space during the GWOT, first with brands like Timex and Suunto and later with Garmin as smartwatches entered the tactical fold. Timex Ironman Classic - $63 The humble Timex Ironman was issued by CIA to partner forces during the GWOT. Often playing second fiddle to celebrated G-Shock models, the Timex Ironman deserves its place in any discussion of digital timing during the GWOT, having been used not only by conventional military forces but also by US intelligence agencies, including CIA, which issued the Ironman to Afghan partner forces. Dating back to 1984 and the Timex Triathlon, the Ironman name was officially introduced in 1986 after Timex obtained the rights to the growing Ironman franchise. Designed to be rugged enough for swimming, biking, and running in the ridiculous sport of Ironman-distance triathlons, the Timex Ironman found its place among military and NatSec circles by virtue of its attainable price point, legible display, useful timing functions, and stout build. Former US Navy SEAL Jocko Willink is known for wearing Timex Ironman watches before, during, and after the GWOT. We have spotted Ironman watches on the wrists of US Navy SEALs and other members of the SpecOps community including former SEAL Jocko Willink who wore a Timex Ironman before and during the GWOT and continues to wear the humble digital watch despite his success as an author, podcaster, and leadership guru. We assume Jocko thinks the watch is “GOOD”. Suunto Vector - Discontinued A US Army soldier calls in an airstrike while wearing a Suunto Vector in Afghanistan in 2009. (Photo Credit: US Army) Another outdoors-oriented watch with ABC functionality that saw no shortage of action in Iraq and Afghanistan was the Suunto Vector, which was produced between 1998 and 2015 almost without change, a testament to the original design. With an Achilles heel of only 30 meters of water resistance, the Vector was still a great choice for urban and desert warfare, with its integrated altimeter being especially useful for mountain operations. Recognizing the trend, Suunto, a Finland-based brand, leaned into the watch’s popularity among US military members, creating an olive green variant that nails the early 2000s “tacticool” look on the head. Multiple orders for the Vector were placed by Wright-Patterson Air Force Base in 2014 and 2015, with another interesting order coming from the FBI in 2021 (Presumably for SWAT Teams). Suunto Core Classic - $219 A US Navy SEAL wearing a Suunto Core on deployment. Where the Suunto Vector was in all ways intended as a mountaineering watch for REI nerds that grew to become a military favorite, it felt like Suunto knew what they were doing when they introduced the Core in 2007. While the new watch still technically only provided 30 meters of water resistance, Suunto obviously felt strongly enough about the watch’s amphibious ability to engineer a depth gauge function in addition to the standard ABC capabilities the brand is known for. Intriguingly, the depth gauge was only rated to 33 feet (10 meters), which happens to be the maximum operating depth of a pure oxygen rebreather such as the LAR V used by US Navy SEALs. A coincidence? Perhaps, but conspiracy theories are a lot more fun. What is for sure is the Core’s appeal among SpecOps units, with multiple orders placed for the model by Air Force Special Operations Command (AFSOC) and USSOCOM starting in 2010. 5.11 H.R.T. Titanium - Discontinued A young Chris Craighead wearing the seldom-seen 5.11 H.R.T. Titanium watch. (Photo Credit: Chris Craighead) Despite making a bunch of quality tactical gear, 5.11 is not known for its watches. That said, the analog-digital HRT model did have its day during the Global War On Terror, even issued to and worn by “Obi-Wan Nairobi” AKA Chris Craighead who wore the watch on deployment in his SAS days (but not his famed single-handed efforts in Kenya). That said, from what we can tell, 5.11’s watches were not formally purchased by the US Government and they aren’t commonly spotted in our research, which also indicates the watches did not obtain the reputation for durability possessed by G-Shock and other names on this list. Garmin A US Navy SEAL conducts training with a Garmin Fenix on the wrist. (Photo Credit: US Navy) When it comes to modern military watches, the new elephant in the room is Garmin, though the brand is not without its complications when it comes to modern warfare. Garmin also has a long-standing history with the US Military, having provided a wide variety of GPS-related equipment throughout the GWOT and today. An evolution of the “smartwatch” genre kicked off by Apple’s Apple Watch in 2015, Garmin’s outdoors and tactical-oriented collection of watches provides more functionality than a Timex or G-Shock could ever dream of, including active heart rate monitoring, GPS, an incredible array of sport and fitness specific functions, and in some cases, even parachuting and ballistics-specific capabilities. The suite of tech is no doubt compelling, but also Bluetooth or otherwise “connected” watches run the risk of being utilized to track or monitor troops in a theater of war or intelligence officers. Still, Garmin’s fitness and tactical smartwatches have been widely ordered through government channels over the last 10 years or so including much of the end of the GWOT. Garmin Instinct - $300-500 Pictured on an Indian Marine Commando Force (MARCOS) operator during training with an East Coast-based SEAL Team, the Garmin Instinct has become popular with military members around the world since its inception in the closing years of the GWOT. (Photo Credit: US Navy) Now in its second iteration, the Instinct, originally released in 2018, is where Garmin’s GPS-enabled smartwatch collection kicks off. The case, strap, user interface, and display are simpler compared to more premium models, but you still get GPS capabilities that sync with multiple satellite systems, all of the ABC functions you could ever want, solar charging on some models, and apps for sports, with the watch also conforming to the 810 Military Standard for shock and water resistance. While it was only around at the tail end of the GWOT and does not appear to have been purchased en masse through official channels, the Instinct often appears on the wrist of military members during the final years of the conflict. Garmin Fenix - $640-1,000 A Garmin Fenix on the wrist of a US Air Force Pararescueman in 2019. (Photo Credit: US Air Force) The most widely purchased wrist-worn Garmin during the GWOT and now in its seventh iteration, the Fenix was launched in 2012 as an outdoors smartwatch with an impressive array of fitness functions in addition to GPS capabilities. A search of government records reveals dozens of orders for Garmin Fenix models starting with an AFSOC order in 2015 with continuous follow-up orders from the Air Force’s SpecOps community ever since. Further orders for Fenix models have come from the US Army’s Air Combat Command, 855th Aircraft Maintenance Squadron, and the Defense Logistics Agency (DLA). Beyond these official orders, many other small-scale orders were likely placed through civilian channels with government funds. Garmin Tactix - $1,000-1,600 A US Navy SEAL wears a Garmin Fenix or Tactix during training operations. (Photo Credit: US Navy) Essentially a special version of the Fenix, the Garmin Tactix takes the GPS and fitness functions and adds features specific to use in tactical or military environments including a display mode intended for use with night vision, ballistics calculators, and a jumpmaster mode for parachuting. As you’d expect, the Tactix is popular among military organizations, having been ordered by AFSOC as early as 2015, certain US Marine Corps units including Marine Corps Air Station Cherry Point, and the Navy Experimental Diving Unit (NEDU) over the years. Whether Digital Or Analog, Use Your Tools Whether we like it or not, most modern operators trust digital tool watches—even Apple Watches—over Swiss luxury brands. While we often profile Intelligence Officers and Special Operators wearing Seikos and fine Swiss timepieces, the fact is that the majority of practitioners leverage DTWs to complete their tasks. From G-Shock to Suunto to Timex to Garmin or even the Apple Watch, digital watches served as tools on every front of the Global War On Terror, the most impactful global conflict in modern times, evolving along the way to include smartwatch-style capabilities that, while challenging in some respects, provide a modern soldier or intelligence asset with an unprecedented level of technical capability. As watch enthusiasts, we would perhaps like to see more analog mechanical watches on the wrists of modern military members. Still, in many cases, digital watches are simply a better tool for the job. Whether you’re wearing an Omega Seamaster or a Casio F91W, as long as you live the “Use Your Tools” ethos, we’re here for you. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: DARPA’s Take on the Next Generation of Military Watches
Read MoreThe Dive Watch - Everything You Need To Know
Going In-Depth With History’s Most Popular & Impactful Tool Watch Despite the relative lack of popularity of scuba diving, the dive watch prevails as one...
Read MoreGoing In-Depth With History’s Most Popular & Impactful Tool Watch Despite the relative lack of popularity of scuba diving, the dive watch prevails as one of the most popular categories in watchmaking while also claiming several of history’s most recognizable designs including the Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Watches intended for diving have also been worn by a variety of sketchy individuals at the forefront of history-shaping events including the pioneering Panerai models utilized by the commando frogmen of the Italian Decima Flottiglia MAS in WWII, Doxa Subs on the wrists of Jacques Cousteau and his team as they pioneered underwater filmmaking, and even a modern Rolex Submariner worn by a US Navy SEAL on the raid that killed Usama bin Laden back in 2011. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) What Is A Dive Watch? With all of that being said, we all have a general idea of what a dive watch is and does, but what exactly constitutes a dive watch? Which functions, formats, or capabilities are essential, and which are marketing fluff? In this Dispatch, backed by my experience as a commercial diver and professional watch nerd, we’ll go in-depth with the anatomy of a dive watch, presenting the key elements that add up to a competent dive timer whether or not you intend to use the watch for its intended purpose. An elapsed time bezel is also great for grilling steaks. What Is Water Resistance? In 2019, a custom Omega Ultra Deep descended to Challenger Deep, the ocean’s deepest point, strapped to the outside of Victor Vescovo’s submersible, Limiting Factor. (Photo Credit: Omega) Let’s get the obvious out of the way. A dive watch is only as good as its ability to resist the sometimes massive pressures and constant risk of flooding encountered in the undersea environment. Most dive watches achieve their water resistance with screwed sealing surfaces and gaskets which are necessary because the pressure at depth can be enormous. For every foot of depth encountered by a watch in seawater, .445 pounds of pressure is applied per square inch. Divers are historically bad at math so the equation for calculating pressure on the fly is typically expressed as “half the depth” meaning that if you’re diving to a relatively pedestrian 100 feet, your watch will encounter approximately 50 (or exactly 44.5) pounds per square inch of pressure, enough to make the water really want to get inside your watch. The deeper you go, the tougher it gets for your watch’s tender insides to stay dry. Therefore, the vast majority of watches intended for diving are rated to at least 200 meters, but many are rated to more extreme depths including 3,900 meters (12,800 feet) for the Rolex Deepsea or an even more obnoxious 6,000 meters (20,000 feet) for the Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep. A 100-meter-rated watch like the Casio AE1200WH World Time is typically fine for casual scuba diving. (Photo Credit: Benjamin Lowry) Can I Wear My Watch Underwater? While we’re here, let’s quickly dispel a couple of common myths. I wouldn’t take a 30 or 50-meter-rated watch diving on purpose, but a watch rated to 100 meters is often fine for casual scuba diving assuming it’s relatively new and/or has been pressure tested recently. As a disclaimer, there is still an element of risk. 100 meters is a rating, not a promise of a watch's ability to dive to that depth, and the majority of 100-meter-rated watches haven't been tested in water during production. That said, modern watches are generally more capable than you'd think, and I’ve worn several 100-meter watches including the Seiko 5 Sports SSK001 and Casio AE1200WH for shallow diving profiles without issues. For what it’s worth, the ISO 6425 standard for a “professional” dive watch that we’ll get to in a bit only requires 100 meters of water resistance. In most cases, 200 meters of water resistance is more than you could ever need. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) For whoever is already typing something in all caps about “dynamic” pressure saying you need a watch rated to 200 meters to go to the pool because more pressure is applied as you move your arm and watch through the water, stop. It is technically true that a watch in motion underwater experiences more pressure than it would if it were static, but many nerds who are good at math have calculated the change as minute, the equivalent of a fraction of a foot to a few feet of depth in many instances, and functionally insignificant as it relates to the water resistance rating of your watch. Measuring Elapsed Time (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Another crucial element of any good dive watch is its ability to manage elapsed time, a function typically utilized to track “bottom time” (defined by the US Navy as the elapsed time from when you leave the surface until you begin your ascent) but also shorter periods including safety or decompression stops. In the days before diving computers, this capability was the single most important job carried out by the dive watch, with the bottom time being used in conjunction with a diver’s maximum depth in calculating a diver’s decompression profile. Today, this important work is usually carried out by a diving computer, but being able to measure elapsed time is still a core aspect of what constitutes a dive watch. Typically, managing elapsed time is carried out with a rotating bezel measuring from zero to 60 minutes that is typically unidirectional, meaning it can only be accidentally rotated to express less bottom time as opposed to more, which could land a diver in proverbial hot water concerning their gas supply or profile. In many cases, dive bezels are also marked with finer one-minute intervals for the first fifteen minutes. You’ll hear different theories as to why, but I have always understood it was to precisely measure smaller amounts of time whether for decompression stops or individual legs of underwater swims in navigation scenarios. A U.S. Navy Explosive Ordnance Disposal (EOD) Technician wearing a G-Shock DW6900. (Photo Credit: US Navy) To be clear, elapsed time measurement by no means needs to take place by way of an external bezel. Still standard issue for US Navy Divers and amphibious special operators, a G-Shock’s stopwatch function is amazing for this task, as are certain internal bezels as long as they don’t utilize a screw-down crown in their operation. Diving chronographs can also be used, but the additional pushers often increase the potential water ingress and wouldn’t be my first choice. There are exceptions to every rule, but generally speaking, fewer case openings in your dive watch is a good thing. Legibility For great dive watch dials less is often more. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) After water resistance and being able to track elapsed time, another central pillar in any good dive watch design is a dial and handset that is legible in all conditions including total darkness. For the dial and hands, high contrast and simple geometric shapes seem to work best. Examples like the Rolex Submariner, Seiko 6309, Benrus Type I, Tudor Snowflake, Omega Seamaster 300, and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms all have designs that have stood the test of time utilizing white luminescent indices and hands in simple geometric forms over a black or navy blue primary dial surface. The best dive watch dials are equally visible day or night. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In the arena of legibility, being straightforward and even leaning into minimalism is a good thing. Lasting bright luminescent material is also important as is the ability to quickly orient the dial in total darkness or murky underwater environments. Having luminescent material on the bezel at least at twelve but preferably also elsewhere is also key as the importance of measuring elapsed time doesn’t disappear in the dark. Despite breaking some of the design guidelines listed here, some dial designs just work. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) There are exceptions to the monochromatic less-is-more rule including the orange “Professional” dial on Doxa Sub models as well as the busier display on the Marathon GSAR, both of which are excellent and highly legible underwater, but the concepts of simple geometric forms and high contrast are great places to start. For further proof of capability, always look to military dive watch designs for a trustworthy indicator of subsea utility. Military supply officers don’t care how cool you look at Red Bar, they just want the cheapest thing that will get the job done. Straps & Bracelets (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) While it may seem secondary compared to the watch itself, any great dive watch is only as good as its ability to stay on the wrist. To start, the idea that any dive watch not secured by a pull-through strap is destined for total loss following spring bar failure is overblown, but straightforward nylon straps do provide an additional measure of security while also being inexpensive and convenient for use over a wide range of different exposure suits. After pull-through straps, I would argue a bracelet with solid end links is the next most secure method of attachment but here, we have to take into consideration the potential need for or quality of the clasp or extension system required to fit over your diving suit of choice. Rolex’s Glidelock and Tudor’s T-Fit are among the most refined, but more attainable folding extensions from brands like Seiko get the job done just as well. Many rubber straps are also great but are at least theoretically less secure compared to the aforementioned options. For the ultimate in security, it’s tough to beat fixed lugs and a nylon pull-through strap. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Different types of spring bars and lug formats also make a difference where security is concerned. Watches like the Tudor Pelagos FXD or CWC’s collection of military watches utilize fixed lug bars that add a heightened level of peace of mind. If your watch has drilled lugs, you can use shoulderless spring bars that also decrease the likelihood of an underwater “oh shit” moment no matter what type of strap is being used. In any case, the decision about what kind of strap to pair with your dive watch should be taken almost as seriously as the watch itself, as it’s mighty hard to tell the time on a watch that’s rapidly sinking away from you into the ocean’s murky depths. ISO 6425 Standard The ISO 6425-rated Citizen Aqualand on a recent dive in Lake Michigan. (Photo Credit: Matt Ludvigson) It’s not a be-all-end-all, but it’s important to also recognize the ISO 6425 standard, a benchmark for dive watches and an informative set of specifications and testing procedures laid out by the International Organization for Standardization starting in 1982. At its core, ISO 6425 describes, “…watches designed to withstand diving in water at depths of at least 100 m and equipped with a secured measuring system to indicate the diving time, which is visible in darkness.” While that sounds simple enough, the complete standard is incredibly long and detailed, covering everything from pressure testing to shock resistance to legibility in the dark to corrosion and magnetic field resistance. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Many dive watches from brands like Seiko and Citizen closely conform to this standard but many others—from the luxury tier especially—do not, and here I’m talking about many of the original gangsters including the Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster and more modern legends like the Tudor Pelagos FXD. With that in mind, we should never limit our search for the perfect dive timer to timepieces claiming certification or compliance with the ISO standard. Helium Escape Valves (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) One of the most misunderstood watch functions of all time, the concept of the helium escape valve is often thrown around in the professional dive watch conversation. In the briefest terms, a helium escape (or release) valve allows expanding helium atoms that have—because they are super tiny—sneaked past the gaskets in a watch case over the course of an extended period spent living in a dry, helium-rich saturation diving chamber to safely escape during the days-long decompression process without making the watch explode. Unlike many dive watch features, the helium escape valve does its thing in the dry. (Photo Credit: Gavan Hennigan) There are automatic valves like you find with the Rolex Sea-Dweller and manual valves like in the Omega Seamaster Diver 300. Both work more or less like a burp. As internal pressure within the watch case increases while external pressure, in the decompressing saturation system, decreases, the valve actuates, allowing the watch to equalize with its surroundings. If you are a commercial saturation diver who needs this functionality, you are most likely already aware. The rest of you do not and will not ever need such a valve no matter how extreme your scuba diving adventures at Sandals resort may become. Final Thoughts There are, of course, other aspects of dive watches that are important including a generally stout and durable build and a robust movement that can handle the knocks and bangs associated with diving and dive boats. That said, for this Dispatch, we decided to concentrate on the traits that are more specific to watches produced for the undersea environment. To summarize, we’re talking about appropriate water resistance, a method of measuring elapsed time, legibility in all conditions, and a strap or bracelet that will keep your dive watch right where it belongs. You don’t need one, but we also highlighted the helium escape valve’s incredibly rare but important work. If dive watches can survive a wide range of underwater hazards, chances are they can take on your daily life. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) Whether you intend to go diving or not, it’s important to understand the reasoning behind the basic dive design format that has become one of the most recognizable and popular watch silhouettes in horological history. Scuba diving remains relatively unpopular, but dive watches have transcended their intended use case and category to become the most popular overall sports watch type in part because of the capabilities they developed over decades on the wrists of military, professional, and recreational divers. And hey, even if you’re not going diving anytime soon, the bezel is great for timing whatever you have on the Big Green Egg in the backyard. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Dive Watch - How The Military Helped To Shape History’s Greatest Tool Watch
Read MoreElliot Brown & The Special Boat Service
How A British Independent Watch Brand Created The Latest SBS Issue Watch The list of modern military-issued analog watches is short. The fact is, most...
Read MoreHow A British Independent Watch Brand Created The Latest SBS Issue Watch The list of modern military-issued analog watches is short. The fact is, most forces have understandably transitioned to digital tool watches, arguably a more effective tool for modern warfare. That said, they do exist and one of the most interesting and least understood is the Elliot Brown Holton Professional. The Holton was designed from the ground up in partnership with and is currently issued to the British Special Boat Service (SBS), the United Kingdom’s “tier one” maritime special operations force unit, a loose equivalent to SEAL Team Six. Many of the stories we tell revolve around “unit watches” or private purchases used during an individual operator's career. This is the story of a purpose-built tool watch designed to satisfy a specific operational requirement. But it is also the story of the SBS’s culture and the role watches play. When newly badged operators arrive at Poole, the headquarters of the British Special Boat Service, they receive a green beret with the SBS insignia, a belt, a hardcover book on the history of their unit, and the standard-issue Elliot Brown Holton Professional. These are just things but are also intended to represent the accomplishment of each individual operator and honor the legacy of those who came before. The watch is a tool and the latest timepiece issued to the storied unit. Elliot Brown & The Holton Professional In the coastal city of Poole, England, we find Elliot Brown, a nascent brand producing a range of mostly tool watches including the Holton Professional. Despite the potentially massive marketing upside in celebrating the relationship between the Holton and the SBS, Elliot Brown doesn’t mention “The Service” by name, instead adopting the quiet professional approach of the operators who wear the Holton in performing their duties. In this Dispatch, we’ll shine a light on Elliot Brown and tell the story behind the development of the Holton Professional. RM Poole, the home base for the SBS, is conveniently located near the boatyard Elliot Brown calls home. Far from its current military associations, Elliot Brown was founded in 2013 as the brainchild of Ian Elliot and Alex Brown. At its outset, the brand’s goal was to produce durable, relatively inexpensive watches designed around the founders’ collective experience in outdoor sports, watch enthusiasm, and engineering. Location was important as well. Headquartered in a working boat yard near Poole Harbour on England’s south coast, Elliot Brown neighbors RM Poole, the home of the Special Boat Service. Among the world’s most elite maritime SpecOps units, the SBS also has an impressive history when it comes to horology. A Brief History Of The Special Boat Service & Watches Sergeant Paul “Scruff” McGough of the British SBS wearing an issued Cabot Watch Company (CWC) SBS during the battle for Qala-I Jangi Prison on 27 November 2001. (Photo Credit: First Casualty, Toby Harnden) With roots dating back to the Second World War including no shortage of heroic assaults on Axis shipping by way of specialized folding canoes called “folbots”, today’s SBS is a modern maritime assault force specializing in counterterrorism. Trained in diving, small boats, reconnaissance, parachuting, small unit tactics, explosives, and sabotage, the SBS serves as the Ministry of Defense’s equivalent to SEAL Team Six. For the watch enthusiast, the SBS is also closely linked to some of history’s most legendary dive watches including the Rolex Military Submariner or MilSub which was issued to British forces including the SBS starting in 1971. In 1980, CWC took over, first with an automatic and then quartz versions of its Royal Navy Diver, a far less expensive option compared to the Rolex Submariners that had a nasty habit of going “missing”. The Special Boat Service has impressive horological associations, having used the Rolex MilSub in the 1970s and CWC models including the SBS in the decades to follow. Photo Credit: Bonhams (Rolex) and James Rupley (CWC) In 1987, supposedly stemming from a special request from the Special Boat Service, CWC introduced its SBS, a blacked-out version of the RN Diver to reduce reflections for nighttime and maritime operations. CWC’s SBS is still issued to certain specialist diving units within the Ministry of Defense and worn by members of the Special Boat Service, however many have now transitioned to the standard issue Elliot Brown. A New British Watch Brand & One Of The World’s Premier Special Forces Units Former SBS operator and celebrated mountaineer Nims Purja MBE wearing a digital tool watch during training operations. (Photo Credit: Nirmal Purja MBE) When Elliot Brown launched in 2013 at the London Watch Show, the brand’s earliest models were capable but provided more of a civilian aesthetic. At the time, Special Boat Service operators wore a variety of digital and analog watches including CWC, early Suunto GPS watches, and the ubiquitous Casio G-Shock. Despite the utility offered by Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.), SBS regulations specifically state an analog dive watch must be worn for all diving operations, with a diving supervisor individually checking each operator’s watch before they can enter the water. Of note, the analog watches are worn in combination with a dive computer. The SBSA Canford inspired the development of the Holton Professional. (Photo Credit: Elliot Brown) After creating a special version of its Canford model to raise funds for the Special Boat Service Association (SBSA), several active members of the unit began using the commemorative watch on actual operations. Wondering what might be possible with a watch designed from the ground up for the operators, a development process officially began for the watch that would become the Holton Professional in 2015. Specifically, the unit requested a watch that was indestructible and visible at night and in low light conditions underwater, with a rotating bezel that could easily be operated with all manner of gloved hands. Founders Alex and Ian worked closely with the unit, producing multiple rounds of prototypes that were each individually tested by various SBS squadrons. Specifically, the brand engineered a recessed four-o’clock crown with three seals, single-sided screw lug bars for ease of use and durability, and a novel bezel edge with an almost hobnail-like texture that was intended to be rotated with the palm of a gloved hand. The bezel insert was filled with luminescent material and made from hardened steel as opposed to aluminum on the CWC SBS, with Super-LumiNova also being utilized across the dial and hands. Tritium tubes were also considered but ultimately ruled out because they light up under night vision whereas printed luminescent material does not. Delivered to the unit on a fitted rubber strap, the watches also included a traditional nylon “Zulu” strap intended to work with the thick drysuits utilized by the divers in cooler waters. The dial design was straightforward and incorporated “sword” hands, a familiar trait from other British military dive watches. At 6 o’clock on the dial is a “broad arrow,” denoting it as official property of the MOD as a military-issued watch. Civilian versions, which are almost identical to issued examples, also have the broad arrow insignia. An Elliot Brown Holton Professional alongside a Rolex Submariner. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Once the operators were happy with the design, the challenge of guiding the new watches through official channels into the hands of the operators began in earnest. First came the NSN or Nato Stock Number, issued to items in compliance with specific regulations for particular pieces of equipment including dive watches. Obtaining an NSN can be daunting, but the presence of an NSN doesn’t necessarily mean an item is officially issued but rather simply that it could be issued. For the Ministry of Defense, an item must be obtained by a unit through an approved intermediary supplier rather than the brand, just as CWC is supplied to the MoD through a supplier called Silvermans. With multiple layers of bureaucracy managed, the initial batch of the Holton Professional was delivered to the SBS in late 2017, first to Sabre Squadrons tasked with counterterrorism and then to other units in turn. While they are otherwise identical to civilian versions of the Holton, issued examples have a unique crown. Elliot Brown’s “Unit Watch” Program An Elliot Brown “unit watch” produced for a particular Special Air Service (SAS) squadron. (Photo Credit: Former SAS Melvyn Downes) In addition to the Holton Professional’s official connection to the SBS, Elliot Brown has also become a supplier of commemorative “unit watches” for various other military and civilian organizations including the SAS (pictured above), UK Counter Terrorism Police, the Royal Navy Submarine Service, and others. Rather than being issued and paid for with government funds, these watches are modified versions of existing designs within the brand’s catalog that are available for private purchase for vetted members of the organization. We have covered other brands known for producing “unit watches” including Tudor, OMEGA, Breitling, Bremont, and Christopher Ward, but it’s always nice to see a smaller brand getting into the space, especially with a price point that presents a less daunting boundary compared to traditional luxury brands. The Military-Issue Analog Dive Watch - Last Of A Dying Breed As we’ve established in many instances on the Dispatch, there is an established community within Intelligence, NatSec, and SpecOps with a passion for horology. That said, instances where government organizations deem it appropriate to spend taxpayer dollars on analog watches are becoming fewer and farther between, increasingly usurped by cheaper, more feature-rich digital options. Still, holdouts including Elliot Brown’s active issue to the Special Boat Service and Marathon’s use by various US SpecOps units prove the analog dive watch remains relevant today. The story of the Holton, a Tier One unit approaching a smaller watch brand with a list of requests that ends up becoming an issued watch, is rare, but the utility behind wearing watches for their intended purpose sentiment isn’t. The “Use Your Tools” ethos is alive and well. Typically, in an article like this one, we’d share “action shots” of members of the unit in question wearing the watches in question. However, in stark contrast to many US SpecOps units, the SBS remains incredibly secretive, meaning such photographs are essentially nonexistent. With that in mind, with operational security in mind, we’ve used either photos released by former members of the unit who are now in the public eye or photographs taken with unit members and approved for wider distribution. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Dive Watch - How The Military Helped To Shape History’s Greatest Tool Watch
Read MoreA Navy SEAL’s Unlikely Journey Into The Watch World
From The Mountains Of Afghanistan To Watches & Wonders In Geneva I pulled out my map and grease pencil, and said, “Tell me where you...
Read MoreFrom The Mountains Of Afghanistan To Watches & Wonders In Geneva I pulled out my map and grease pencil, and said, “Tell me where you are. We are coming.” Calmly, Kevin started giving his position, reaching the sixth number before another shot rang out. Silence. Another team member whispered, “Man down.” Kevin was shot, and the others were pinned down in the mountains. I didn’t know it at the time, but Kevin was probably already dead. November 24th, 2012 was a cold night in the mountains of Zabul Province in Afghanistan. As a member of SEAL Team 4, I was on my third deployment. Our mission was to train Afghan commandos, utilizing the local forces to clear villages in the most dangerous areas. “Clear'' is an innocuous way of saying the Afghans were — under our supervision — tasked with kicking the bee's nest before killing as many enemy fighters as possible. At times, it was boring. Other times, it was terrifying. But we loved it. The author with his teammates from SEAL Team 4 in Afghanistan. A Rolex Deepsea is seen on Rob’s wrist at center. (Photo Credit: Rob Huberty) On this particular night, approximately 150 Afghan commandos and 12 SEALs flew towards a village that served as a staging area for repeated attacks on a small Army Special Forces base nearby. Through night vision, I watched the landscape fall away through the open ramp on the back of the Chinook, listening to the pilots’ radio traffic and checking my Rolex Deepsea. We thought we had a clever plan. We were wrong. SO1 Kevin Ebbert providing medical care for villagers in Afghanistan. My friend and brother, Special Warfare Operator First Class (SO1) Kevin Ebbert, was assigned to a six-man sniper team charged with overwatch from the mountains above the village. To avoid discovery, Kevin’s team landed six hours before the assault element, reaching its final position just as day broke and the clearance operation began. As the Afghan commandos entered the village, shots unexpectedly rang out in the mountains near Kevin’s position. I could tell the gunshots were from a sniper rifle, which I assumed was Kevin’s. Seconds later, Kevin’s voice cut through the radio, “We are taking fire… We are taking effective fire.” The term “effective fire” means you need to take cover or get shot. Kevin Ebbert during training in New Mexico leading up to final deployment. (Photo Credit: Meranda Boo Keller) I quickly assembled an element of four SEALs and ran at full speed toward the danger. I took control of all of the helicopters and airplanes on the radio, breathlessly telling the air support where I was going and asking them what they could see. The goat path we traversed was known for explosive traps and IEDs, but there was no time to go around. Seconds mattered. I was at peace with the possibility that I might die trying to reach my brothers in danger. The author carries Kevin Ebbert's patch every day along with his Rolex Deepsea. (Photo Credit: Rob Huberty) My training and experience as a point man, climber, JTAC, and sniper, as well as my fitness level and ability to handle stress, were challenged like never before. Unfortunately, my efforts weren’t enough. We lost Kevin that day. We couldn’t risk a helicopter getting shot down, so we had to take turns carrying him down the mountain. I remember his smell. He joked that he had a musk and never wore deodorant. When we put him down, I remember his hand was cold. I noticed his wedding ring and G-shock. I wanted to take them off him and give them to his wife myself. That’s when I broke down into tears, overcome by the greatest physical and mental exhaustion I’ve ever experienced. The author wearing his Rolex Deepsea in Afghanistan in 2012. (Photo Credit: Robert Huberty) I kept my blood-covered clothes on long after everyone else had showered and decompressed. I looked down at the Rolex on my wrist, still smeared with Kevin’s blood. The horrific loss of my brother in arms and the watch I wore on that mission are etched in my heart forever. Kevin was on his last mission and had been accepted into medical school. He planned to continue to serve others outside of the military. He was the best of us. He was quiet, but when he spoke, everyone listened. I vowed to use my time on this Earth better, knowing my fallen brothers would never get the chance. Kevin Ebbert’s G-Shock in his mother’s hands. (Photo Credit: Charlie Jordan) Kevin also valued watches, having gifted his groomsmen pocket watches at his wedding. Like most Team Guys, however, he wore a G-Shock, preferring reliable workhorses over luxury items. Kevin’s mom, Charlie, still wears his G-Shock periodically. The inexpensive digital watch helps her feel closer to her fallen son. Watches are powerful. Childhood Heroes, Rolex, SEALs, & A G-Shock I grew up with the idea that rugged barrel-chested freedom fighters wore Rolex. Chuck Yeager wore a Rolex Pepsi GMT while he inspired the Apollo Astronauts. Paul Newman did as both a movie star and a real-life hero, as did Magnum PI, James Bond, astronauts, adventurers, spies, and frogmen both real and fictional. The G-Shock DW6600 Rob earned after graduating from BUD/S class 259. (Photo Credit: Robert Huberty) One of my proudest days at BUDS was when I went from a naked wrist to an issued G-Shock. In SEAL training, you aren’t allowed to wear a watch until you earn it. We weren’t allowed to wear our uniforms in town, but when I saw Team Guys in Coronado, their sleeve tattoos and G-Shocks were a dead giveaway. The author’s Omega Seamaster Chronograph 2225.80 he received from his parents after graduating from SEAL Qualification Training (SQT). (Photo Credit: Robert Hubery & WatchBox Studios) To celebrate my graduation from SEAL Qualification Training or SQT, my parents gave me an OMEGA Seamaster Chronograph, my first “good watch.” With my first reenlistment bonus, I bought my first Rolex. I wore it in combat, in tragedy, and in triumph. I wore it for my wedding and the births of all four of my kids. After about twelve years of hard use, it finally stopped in dire need of a service. Navy SEALs in Vietnam wearing a Rolex or Tudor Submariner. During my time in the Teams, wearing a Rolex on deployment was abnormal, few deployed wore a “luxury” watch. I wore a Rolex because I thought it was badass and honored the legacy of the Teams. Rolex is inextricably linked to SEAL history, particularly of the Vietnam Era. In Vietnam, SEALs wore blue jeans and tiger stripes and carried stoner machine guns while using issued Tudor 7928s or Rolex Submariners to time their operations and combat dives. W.O.E.'s Vietnam-Era US Navy Issued Tudor 7928 (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Life & Watches After The Teams Through the loss of friends who ran out of time, I have learned that seconds matter. The watches I wear serve as constant reminders to never take the time I have for granted. During my military career, many of my watches including the Rolex I was wearing when Kevin died are tied to moments of sorrow. SO2 Adam Olin Smith was killed in a helicopter crash in 2010. When another friend and teammate of mine, SO2 Adam Olin Smith died in a helicopter crash during my second deployment in 2010, I retreated into myself, wasting time doom scrolling the Baselworld releases or The Rolex Forums, researching my first purchase. On August 6th, 2011, when Extortion 17 was shot down, my mentor, SOC John Faas, and 30 other Americans perished. John was another old-school G-Shock guy who preferred his simple digital watch over higher-speed options from Garmin. Chief Petty Officer (SEAL) John Faas When I found out about John’s death, I hit the bars and then went watch shopping, which I guess was some kind of watch enthusiast coping mechanism. I didn’t manage to purchase the “Hulk” Submariner I was drunkenly eyeing, but years later I purchased a green Submariner that is still tied to that moment in my mind. The author’s Rolex Submariner, a watch linked to one of the worst days of his life. (Photo Credit: WatchBox Studios) Evolution Of A SEAL Turned Collector When I left the military, I continued my quest to use my time to serve others. Rather than chasing war, I vowed to make the world better and also grow my family. I went to Wharton Business School. I struggled. I landed a presumably excellent job at Amazon. I struggled. I felt like I lacked a meaningful purpose. I eventually regrouped with other veterans and started ZeroEyes, an AI gun detection company whose goal is to reduce gun violence. We have developed technology that can detect a firearm in real-time before someone starts shooting. We have a team that verifies every alert and contacts local law enforcement to neutralize the threat. We provide valuable time to respond where every second matters. Working with this team with this purpose, I feel like I am using my time well again to help make our world safer. Watches remain a powerful symbol of the value of time. My watch-collecting journey has evolved alongside the way I strive to fulfill my mission of serving the world. I started with tool watches. A warrior's watch is a Submariner, a Tudor, an Omega Seamster, a Seiko, or any field watch. It should be stainless steel, mechanical, divable, and easy to read. Over time, I grew to love all watches, discovering a respect for other types I never would have considered. Today, I am a watch collector, a title I would have once considered embarrassing. Warriors should wear watches as tools, not collect them like stamps. The author with Charlotte and Andrew Morgan, Edouard Meylan, Tim and Kate Mancuso, Mathieu Haverlan, Simona, Rikki during Dubai Watch Week. (Photo Credit: Rob Huberty) As I became a part of the community, I learned there were collectors and enthusiasts who shared my same level of passion (or insanity). Finding my tribe, I went further down the rabbit hole, attending Dubai Watch Week and Watches and Wonders earlier this year. Just as it was during my time in the SEAL Teams, watches can be more than the sum of their parts. Today, watches are a powerful connector of new friends and like-minded individuals. I’ve also met watchmakers whose passion for their craft has inspired me. I started with mass-market brands like Swatch, Seiko, and Casio before moving to Tudor, Omega, and Rolex. I now pursue brands like Ulysse Nardin, Moser, and MB&F. I’ve had the distinct privilege of meeting with Max Büsser and visiting his “Madhouse” manufacture, befriending the Meylan brothers behind H. Moser & Cie, and spending time with Matthieu Haverlan of Ulysse Nardin. When it comes to Rolex, I’m still on the waiting list like everyone else. A few of the author’s high horology pieces including an MB&F LM101, Ulysse Nardin Freak X Ops, & a H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Centre Seconds. (Photo Credit: Robert Huberty) As I continue my journey into watches, I have met people who genuinely enrich my life. Watches serve as catalysts for connections and symbols of deep meaning, whether for remembering fallen teammates from the past or new friends from the present. More than simply telling the time, watches remind us to use what time we have left the best we can, time teammates like Kevin, Adam, and John never got. Use your time well. Use your tools. Long Live the Brotherhood. About The Author: Rob served as a U.S. Navy SEAL for nine years. During this time, he led both Navy SEALs and foreign forces during training and combat missions. Rob holds an MBA from The Wharton School and a BA in Political Science from the University of Arizona. Rob is currently COO of ZeroEyes, an artificial intelligence (AI) gun detection system for real-time weapon detection and alerts. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: Aviation “Unit Watches”: Bremont Military and Special Projects Division
Read MoreDiving With The Marathon Search and Rescue
Putting One Of The Last Real Military Dive Watches To The Test In the watch world, clout is king. For brands without centuries of history...
Read MorePutting One Of The Last Real Military Dive Watches To The Test In the watch world, clout is king. For brands without centuries of history to lean on, sales and marketing professionals are left in a mad scramble for authenticity and heritage, searching for a story that makes their watches more than the sum of their parts. These efforts become particularly transparent when those outside our community attempt to influence those within, claiming their mechanical luxury watches are the preferred option for divers, SpecOps, or intelligence professionals. The Marathon SAR was unveiled in 2001. (Photo Credit: Worn and Wound) In reality, Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.) are most often the instrument of choice, but there is at least one analog tool watch still issued to the US Military in 2024: Marathon Watch. This isn’t the first time we’ve covered Marathon, a supplier to the US and Canadian governments since the Second World War. However, in this Dispatch, we’ll concentrate on the Search and Rescue (SAR) collection in particular, sharing its bizarre history and modern military associations before testing the watches on a dive on the California coast. It’s also a family of watches with which I have a significant history, having used both the quartz and automatic variants while serving the US Coast Guard and as a commercial diver. Beyond the utility, the Marathon SAR also has one of the more unusual origin stories in modern watchmaking. Watch Nerds Designing A Military Tool Watch For Operators RCAF SAR Techs made the initial request that led to the Marathon SAR Collection. (Photo Credit: Canadian Armed Forces) In 2000, Marathon Watch was approached by the Canadian Armed Forces (CAF) with a request for a purpose-built dive watch capable of handling the wide range of environments encountered by Royal Canadian Air Force (RCAF) Search and Rescue Technicians or SAR Techs. Trained in “...Arctic rescue, parachuting, diving, mountain climbing, and helicopter rescue”, the elite community of around 150 SAR Techs had a few specific requests including luminescent indices for legibility in all conditions, an automatic caliber, ample water resistance, and a bezel that could be easily operated with all manner of gloves. In designing the watch, Marathon did something all but unheard of, looking to members of the watch enthusiast community for guidance. Marathon first tapped one of its military suppliers who then got in touch with the founder of the Military Watch Resource (MWR), a niche online forum dedicated to military horology. With the help of a talented machinist, the first SAR watches came together, with input being gathered at each stage of the design process from members of the MWR forum who also coined the SAR name. The original Marathon SAR of 2001 utilized printed luminescent indices while being inspired by several great historical dive watches. (Photo Credit: Worn & Wound) With a 39mm case silhouette generally inspired by the Rolex Submariner, a dial format resembling the Benrus Type I, a distinctive knurled crown, and an overhanging 41mm bezel reminiscent of a rare East German military diver’s watch from a brand called Ruhla, Marathon delivered the first orders of its new SAR watch in late 2001. Initially, the Marathon SAR was only available through official supply channels and in limited numbers, with a few select enthusiasts getting their hands on rare contract overrun pieces. Issued not only to SAR Techs but also Clearance Divers and other amphibious members of the Canadian Forces since 2001, an important design change to a tritium gas tube illuminated dial around 2005 answered a specific request from the US Military. While they are not widely issued, the GSAR or Government Search and Rescue as it is now known, and its quartz equivalent the TSAR or Tritium Search and Rescue, can both be ordered by military procurement specialists in the United States through the GSA catalog — a sort of military and government Amazon — using unit-allocated funds. USAF Pararescuemen wearing the Marathon GSAR while conducting dive training in 2019. (Photo Credit: DVIDS) Issued Marathon watches are not ubiquitous by any means, but it does happen. According to Marathon’s Government Contracting Officer, US Navy EOD, US Air Force Pararescue, and US Army Special Forces have all recently placed orders for watches from the SAR family. Our previous look at Marathon detailed several additional issued examples of the GSAR and TSAR. I distinctly remember seeing issued Marathon watches on the wrists of USCG Divers and select Aviators in my Coast Guard days. Over the years, Marathon has adjusted its approach to include a broader offering of watches intended for the civilian market while still doing the vast majority of its business for government contracts. Diving With The Modern Marathon SAR Collection (Photo Credit: Worn & Wound) The SAR collection has grown by leaps and bounds since its humble beginnings in the early 2000s. There are three case sizes (36mm, 41mm, and 46mm), quartz and automatic options, an automatic chronograph, and several dial colors and configurations. Marathon has leaned into the rise of watch enthusiasm but without losing the core direction. To obtain feedback from end-users and get closer to the enthusiast community, Marathon invited a few interesting individuals from the military and diving communities for a dive preceding Windup San Francisco, an enthusiast-oriented event. In 55-degree water, you wear as much rubber as you can. (Photo Credit: Worn & Wound) Preparing for a shore dive in water around 55°F/13°C, most of us donned thick 7mm wetsuits with a few ziploc bag enthusiasts opting for drysuits. Once suited up, we had our pick from a slew of Marathon SAR watches including the white Arctic dial GSAR, a JDD or Jumbo Day/Date, and an Anthracite GSAR. I used an original SAR from the printed MaraGlo dial days. Discontinued in 2006, the OG Marathon SAR is, according to a source within the company, poised for a triumphant return later this year bolstered by some subtle updates. A few of us needed to swap over to nylon straps to get our watches over our variety of thick exposure suits, but we were soon ready to go. Petty Officer Second Class (ND2) Brock Stevens with a Marathon Arctic GSAR. (Photo Credit: Worn & Wound) My buddy for the dive was Navy Diver Second Class (ND2) Brock Stevens, a veteran of over four years of ships husbandry on carriers and nuclear submarines in Norfolk, Virginia. Typically diving with a Kirby Morgan helmet as opposed to open circuit scuba, Brock is a guy with well over a thousand dives and is at home in the water. After the walk from the parking lot to the beach with all of our gear, we put on our fins and waded into deeper water. California diving can be hit-and-miss. In Monterey, being cold is all but assured, but the visibility varies wildly from as much as fifty feet or more on the best days to the three to five feet we had for our dive. That said, as you’d expect, everyone’s Marathon watch worked as intended, each of us timing the dive with our rotating bezels which remained legible even in murkier conditions. I had a diving computer on my other wrist, but given our max depth of around 40 feet, we would run out of gas long before any decompression-related concerns, and I could have easily left it on the beach. The visibility left something to be desired. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) After descending, we finned along a submerged outfall pipe covered in growth with the odd clump of kelp running lazily from the sea bed to the surface. Given the visibility, I kept Brock just within the limits of my range of vision. Reaching the end of the pipe, we set out for a field of metridiums, an out-of-this-world underwater forest of what looked like giant cauliflower stalks, then returned to the pipe for a leisurely swim back toward the shore. A dive like this goes nowhere near the limits of these watches, which are designed for and capable of much harder use. Brock has been using his Marathon while working on submarines, and it seems to be holding up. Still, it’s nice to see a brand invite a bunch of actual divers to experience their tools in their element. Given the SAR collections’s history, we know Marathon is no stranger to taking feedback from the enthusiast community, with a slew of recent releases to support the trend. When we met with the brand after the dive, they seemed genuinely interested in our feedback, which is seldom the case with watch brands. Brock Stevens wearing his Marathon GSAR while working as a US Navy Diver. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) My positive experiences with the watches aside, I would argue the modern GSAR isn’t for everyone. It’s not refined or elegant, it's a tool. Given the tall bezel, it fits poorly under shirt cuffs. But the GSAR isn’t about that. It’s a watch that was designed as a tool. While it’s true most people don’t use dive watches as the tools they once were, some still do. The entire concept of being “mil-spec” or military issue adds credibility to any piece of equipment and in the arena of dive watches in particular, Marathon’s legitimacy as a diving tool is well deserved. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. About The Author: Benjamin Lowry is a US Coast Guard veteran and commercial diver turned watch writer. Now a full-time member of the W.O.E. Team, Ben splits his time between writing and product development at W.O.E. and managing Submersible Wrist, a watch spotting account dedicated to military and commercial divers as well as the life aquatic. Thanks again to Brock Stevens for providing several of the images in this Dispatch. To learn more about Brock, check out @deepsea.edc on Instagram. READ NEXT: Watches and Commercial Espionage: Waltham Watch Company
Read MoreUS Army PSYOP: Christopher Ward “Unit Watch” in Recruiting Video
Last week, the US Army’s 4th Psychological Operations (PSYOP) Group released Ghosts In The Machine 2, the second installment in a series of highly stylized...
Read MoreLast week, the US Army’s 4th Psychological Operations (PSYOP) Group released Ghosts In The Machine 2, the second installment in a series of highly stylized recruiting videos supporting one of the Army’s more unusual units.
Read MoreFrom NASA To SpaceX - The Watches Of SpecOps Astronaut Recovery Teams
The Historic Link Between The US Space Program, Special Operations Forces, & Timepieces In 2020, some 45 years had passed since a crewed US spacecraft...
Read MoreThe Historic Link Between The US Space Program, Special Operations Forces, & Timepieces In 2020, some 45 years had passed since a crewed US spacecraft splashed down at sea. On 2 August, NASA astronauts Douglas Hurley and Robert Behnken experienced no less than four g’s as they hurtled toward the Earth in Elon Musk’s SpaceX Crew Dragon Endeavour. The mission, Crew Demo-2, marked historic firsts including the first crewed commercial space flight as well as the first two-person orbital space flight launched from the United States since STS-4 in 1982. Slowed by four massive parachutes, Demo-2’s Endeavour capsule splashed down in the Gulf of Mexico, just off the coast of Pensacola, Florida, at 2:48 pm. But what then? SpaceX’s Crew Demo-2, the first crewed private space flight, is towed to a support vessel after recovery at sea in 2020. (Photo Credit: NASA) The model of launch, flight, reentry, splashdown in the ocean, and recovery, was established during the earliest days of manned space flight. Considerably safer than returning to earth on land, NASA has traditionally favored a waterborne splashdown for its manned space flights, including the storied Mercury, Gemini, and Apollo missions as well as more recent efforts including Artemis. However, things can and have gone wrong. Assuming the capsule meets the sea as intended, it can still sink or capsize, presenting a perilous situation for any astronauts inside. One area of space travel that goes mostly unexplored by enthusiast media is the long-standing relationship between select SpecOps units and the Space Program. Starting with US Navy Underwater Demolition Teams and Air Force Pararescue Teams in the 1960s and carrying on through modern SpaceX, Boeing, and Artemis missions, the challenging tasks of astronaut recovery and/or rescue continue to be quietly carried out with the help of specialized units from the US Department of Defense. Given the timing, early astronaut recovery teams wore some of history’s most iconic tool watches with names like the Submariner and Sea Wolf on the dial. Today, a select few still choose to wear mechanical watches for the challenging task of plucking spacemen from the ocean. Former US Air Force Pararescuemen (PJ) RJ Casey trains with NASA astronaut Doug Hurley, USMC, and the SpaceX Astronaut Rescue and Recovery Team. (Photo Credit: NASA Astronaut Anil Menon) To understand how SOF supports astronaut recovery today, we spoke with RJ Casey, who contracts as an astronaut rescue and recovery team leader at SpaceX. RJ’s history, which is deserving of a separate Dispatch, starts in Special Forces (SF) where he served as an SF Medical Sergeant and Detachment Officer (18D and 18A, respectively) assigned to 2/19th SFG in the West Virginia Army National Guard. A qualified Combat Diver, RJ picked up a Rolex Submariner in the early 2000s that he still wears today. A legendary watch in special operations, the Submariner serves as a nod to Special Forces units of the past, other more shadowy government agencies, and especially their maritime communities. RJ later joined the US Air Force’s Pararescue community where he currently serves as a reserve Combat Rescue Officer when he isn’t training and recovering astronauts at his civilian job. Today, RJ primarily wears his Bremont S502 Jet, a watch from the brand’s Military and Special Projects Division that he has used for all of his astronaut operations and training evolutions to date. RJ Casey assists NASA Astronaut Nicole Mann, USMC, and Crew-5 Commander, out of SpaceX’s Dragon capsule, pictured with his Bremont S502 Jet military project watch. (Photo Credit: NASA) While space flight has come a long way, having elite rescue specialists like RJ nearby is still a requirement for manned space missions today. SpaceX and NASA’s modern capsule recovery efforts have gone largely without incident, but the involvement of units from the US Navy and Air Force as an additional layer of contingency for these missions is, like so many other lessons in space exploration, the result of a near miss that almost cost the United States the life of an astronaut. How A Near Miss Galvanized A Historic Relationship In 1961, Mercury-Redstone 4 was NASA’s second manned space flight, lasting only fifteen minutes and thirty-seven seconds. Astronaut Gus Grissom, a legendary member of the original Mercury Seven, would have been forgiven for thinking the hard work was behind him. After a successful trip into sub-orbit, the second American in space descended towards the Earth. Liberty Bell 7’s parachutes deployed as intended, and the capsule splashed down approximately 300 miles from its launch location in Cape Canaveral, Florida. Job done. Or so it seemed. Astronaut Gus Grissom, the second American in space. (Photo Credit: National Air And Space Museum) As Marine helicopters from the awaiting USS Randolph approached, Liberty Bell 7’s explosive hatch blew off of the capsule, almost immediately filling the spacecraft with water. A veteran of 100 combat missions in Korea, Grissom acted quickly, leaping from the open hatch to escape the sinking capsule but forgetting to close a valve on his space suit. Mistakenly thinking the astronaut was relatively safe, the crew of the primary recovery helicopter turned its attention to the rapidly sinking spacecraft. Grissom, whose suit was quickly flooded, waved and shouted as he struggled to keep his head above water. At the time, NASA procedures did not call for someone in a boat or in the water to assist with the astronaut’s egress from the capsule. Unfortunate for NASA, but lucky for Grissom, Liberty Bell 7 could not be saved. As the primary recovery helicopter battled with the weight of the sunken capsule, ultimately electing to cut it loose to the depths, the secondary helicopter swooped in to recover one very tired astronaut. One mechanical misstep and NASA very nearly lost its second man in space. After his harrowing ordeal, Grissom is lifted to safety by a Marine helicopter. (Photo Credit: National Air And Space Museum) NASA & The Frogmen Of The Underwater Demolition Teams While NASA already had ties to DOD for assistance in astronaut recovery or rescue, Grissom’s near miss illustrated the necessity of having trained personnel in the water at the splashdown location in the event of a similar mishap. Lacking such personnel, NASA looked to the US Navy’s Underwater Demolition Teams, composed of “frogmen” with extensive experience in challenging open ocean conditions. Tracing their origins to nascent maritime special operations units established during World War II, the UDTs received specialized training in diving, ordnance disposal, beach clearance, and hydrographic reconnaissance, serving as the predecessor to the SEAL Teams which were established in 1962. A Navy frogman leaps from a recovery helicopter into the water to assist in the Gemini-12 recovery operations in 1966. (Photo Credit: NASA) From Mercury 6 onwards, recovery teams composed of specially selected members of various UDTs around the country were required on location to assist with astronaut and capsule recovery operations from the water. Along with a wide variety of specialized equipment more directly related to the mission, the frogmen used the iconic tool dive watches of the day including the Rolex and Tudor Submariner, Zodiac Sea Wolf, and others. Rather than timing dives, the operators utilized these now legendary watches to remain synchronized with the broader multi-agency recovery operation. Members of UDT 13 served as the recovery team for Apollo 12. The Tudor Submariner and Zodiac Sea Wolf can be seen on some of the frogmen. (Photo Credit: Navy Helicopter Association Historical Society) In the majority of the Mercury, Gemini, and Apollo flights, the mission of the UDT recovery teams was relatively straightforward and carefully outlined in this incredible NASA training film from the Mercury Program. After jumping into the sea from a recovery helicopter, the UDT men were tasked with making contact with the capsule before unfolding and deploying an inflatable auxiliary flotation collar intended to keep the capsule upright and high enough in the water. If the astronaut or astronauts inside elected to leave the capsule before being lifted and transferred to an awaiting support ship, typically an aircraft carrier, the UDT swimmers assisted with the exit and transfer into the helicopter’s personnel recovery sling or basket. Once the inhabitants were safe, the frogmen were then charged with assisting the helicopter in lifting the capsule and any other equipment onto the deck of the nearby carrier. Frogmen stand on the auxiliary flotation collar during recovery operations for Apollo 15 (Photo Credit: NASA) For the UDT men of the era, working with NASA to recover astronauts was, besides being extremely cool, relatively light work compared to their regular and often deadly deployments to the Vietnam War. A rarity for those within the world of SpecOps, many of the exploits of the UDT recovery teams were also broadcast live on radio and television, meaning hundreds of millions of people witnessed the typically unseen UDT’s hard work assisting in astronaut recovery, bolstering the legend that has, for better or worse, made today’s SEALs a pop culture phenomenon. Alan Buehler, a member of UDT 11, assisted with the recovery of Apollo 15 & 17. On his wrist, an OMEGA Geneve Chronostop. (Photo Credit: Alan Buehler) Getting back to watches, there are documented exceptions including the aforementioned Sea Wolf from Zodiac and the intriguing use of an OMEGA Geneve Chronostop, but in the majority of archival films and photography from these missions, UDT men are seen wearing Tudor Submariners (Reference 7928) the issue watch for Navy divers and SpecOps at the time. WOE’s personal Tudor Submariner 7928, one of history’s most legendary military dive watches. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Eventually earning its own NSN or NATO Stock Number in 1978 (6645-01-068-1088), the Tudor Submariner saw extensive and well-documented service in Vietnam, during astronaut recovery and rescue operations, and even with other specialized units outside of the US Navy. It appears the phenomenon of Tudors of Espionage (T.O.E.) is nothing new. Bob Coggin of UDT 12 leans against the Apollo 8 Capsule with a Tudor Submariner Ref. 7928 on the wrist. (Photo Credit: NASA) US Air Force PJs & Astronaut Recovery NASA augmented its UDT recovery force with US Air Force Pararescuemen or PJs, combat search and rescue specialists who became legendary for their efforts in saving downed pilots in Vietnam. In addition to emergency medicine, technical rescue, parachuting, mountaineering, small unit tactics, and more, PJs were also trained in diving and ocean swimming, making them another excellent option for spacecraft recovery. In essence, the UDT was the recovery team in the event everything went as planned where the PJs served as the global rescue element in case of an emergency that caused a space flight to land somewhere other than on the X. US Air Force Pararescuemen before and after recovering Gemini VIII. In both images, the PJ on the right is wearing a USAF-issued Tudor Submariner 7928. (Photo Credit: NASA) And that is exactly what happened in 1966 when Gemini VIII entered a potentially deadly spiral in Earth’s orbit. Astronauts David Scott and some guy named Neil Armstrong managed to correct the spin, but the unplanned fuel expenditure meant the mission had to be scrapped. Given the spontaneous nature of the recovery and unplanned splashdown location, the job went to three on-duty US Air Force Pararescuemen out of Okinawa: Larry Huyett, Eldridge Neal, and Glenn Moore. In photos taken both before and after the operation, one of the PJs is seen wearing yet another Tudor Submariner Ref. 7928, a watch that was also commonly issued to PJs during the era. LTJG David R. Kohler of the Apollo-Soyuz Recovery Team with a Tudor Submariner on the wrist. (Photo Credit: Navy SEAL Museum) Jumping ahead, UDT Frogmen were in the water for the recovery of the Apollo-Soyuz Test Flight in 1975, the first manned space flight carried out jointly between the United States and the Soviet Union. Soon after, the United States shifted its focus to the Space Shuttle Program. For the first time, a spacecraft could re-enter Earth’s atmosphere, fly to its destination, and land like a traditional aircraft, obviating the need for water landings and recovery teams from the SpecOps community, at least for the next few decades. Commercial Space Travel Pararescuemen assigned to the 38th Rescue Squadron conduct water jumps in support of astronaut rescue operations for SpaceX in 2021. (Photo Credit: US Air Force) The rise of privatized commercial space travel has changed the picture for DOD’s involvement in astronaut recovery and rescue operations. For private space flights, the companies themselves are responsible for their recovery operations. For anything NASA-related and/or taxpayer-funded including the upcoming Artemis missions, the US Navy again serves as the primary recovery force, typically utilizing a blend of Navy Divers, SAR medics, and EOD Technicians. For anything requiring rescue, again more so in the event of an emergency, US Air Force Pararescue Teams also receive specialized training for capsule operations and are strategically located around the globe. Members of the 308th Rescue Squadron (RQS) “Guardian Angels” train with the Department of Defense's Human Space Flight Support Office, the only full-time organization that coordinates and trains personnel to support human spaceflight contingencies. (Photo Credit: US Air Force) Just as space flight has advanced technologically in leaps and bounds, watches have also progressed, much to the chagrin of die-hard mechanical timekeeping enthusiasts. Feature-rich digital watches from brands like G-Shock and Garmin now account for the majority of wrists in these specialized military communities. That said, there are plenty of watch enthusiasts in the military, the intelligence community, among astronauts, and even within the Pararescue community associated with SpaceX as we saw with RJ Casey. RJ Casey, pictured with his Rolex Submariner, and Louie Haus diving with the 308 RQS. (Photo Credit: PJ Ricky Dunn) While it’s difficult to compare the Space Program of the 1960s to today, the importance of safeguarding those who have recently returned to Earth remains all but unchanged. Highly skilled amphibious operators still stand at the ready to jump into the sea to assist astronauts in peril. Despite being overshadowed by sexier aspects of space travel that tend to garner the limelight, these complex, multifaceted recovery operations are a key component of what has made and continues to make space exploration possible. When men or women go into the sea to recover astronauts, whether it’s a Tudor Submariner or Zodiac Sea Wolf of old or a modern G-Shock, Garmin, or Bremont, the importance of a precision watch remains a critical instrument for human space flight rescue and recovery teams. -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: An Exploration of “Unit Watches” from the Special Operations Community: Tudor To learn more about RJ Casey, check out his Instagram. About The Author: Benjamin Lowry is a US Coast Guard veteran and commercial diver turned watch writer. Now a full-time member of the W.O.E. Team, Ben splits his time between writing and product development at W.O.E. and managing @SubmersibleWrist, a watch spotting account dedicated to military and commercial divers as well as the life aquatic.
Read MoreIntel
A Russian Smartwatch-Enabled Assassination & US Army Apple Watch Warning
Ukrainian Intelligence Services used smartwatch data to assassinate a Russian naval commander during his morning jog. The US Army released a Counterintelligence warning to the...
Read MoreUkrainian Intelligence Services used smartwatch data to assassinate a Russian naval commander during his morning jog. The US Army released a Counterintelligence warning to the US Military. Last week, the US Army issued a warning to Department of Defense (DOD) personnel on the counterintelligence (CI) risks of smartwatches with a social media campaign entitled, “What’s wrong with this picture?” with a photo of a soldier typing on a computer wearing an Apple Watch. It reads: “Smartwatches can transmit sensitive information. Don’t be an insider threat - Think before you use a smartwatch in the field or on deployment.” If you are a regular reader of W.O.E., this should come as no surprise. We have written about “CIA Officers and Apple Watches” (Read HERE) including the 2017 Strava fitness app heatmaps and threats from “Ubiquitous Technical Surveillance” or UTS—the collection and long-term storage of data to analyze and connect individuals with other people, activities, and organizations. The campaign appears to highlight hostile services leveraging smartwatches to access computer networks as well as the sensitivities of wearing them “in the field.” A former Russian submariner commander, Stanislav Rzhitsky was killed after assailants learned his movements from the Strava fitness app. Smartwatch Assassination As a real-world example of a hostile service leveraging smartwatch data to enable a kinetic operation, in June 2023, Russian submarine commander Stanislav Rzhitsky was shot to death while on an early morning jog in the southern Russian city of Krasnodar. According to Russian state-owned media, the assailant reportedly used Strava fitness tracker data to carry out the attack. Surprisingly, Rzhitsky maintained a public profile with the fitness tracker Strava tied to his real name, using data from his GPS-enabled Garmin Fenix 6X smartwatch to catalog running and cycling routes which regularly passed through a park where an unknown assailant ultimately shot him. The profile even contained publicly accessible pictures of Rzhitsky before and after workouts and even his shoe type, providing a valuable resource to the assassin for positive identification. While Ukrainian services denied involvement in the hit, Ukrainian Defense Intelligence did make a suspiciously detailed statement over Telegram shortly after the assassination: “The submariner was jogging in the ’30th Anniversary of Victory’ park in Krasnodar. Around 6 a.m., he was shot seven times with a Makarov pistol. As a result of the gunshot wounds, Rzhitsky died on the spot, Due to heavy rain, the park was deserted, so there were no witnesses who could provide details or identify the attacker.” According to press reporting, Rzhitsky was followed on his morning run by an individual on a bike into the 30th Anniversary of Victory Park. He was killed in a secluded area of the park in the early morning hours. Rzhitsky’s Garmin Fenix smartwatch was recovered at the scene. The submarine Krasnodar—commanded by Rzhitsky—was allegedly responsible for a 2022 missile strike killing Ukrainian civilians. (Photo Credit: USNI) If the attack was orchestrated by Ukrainian intelligence, the motive likely stems from a missile attack on the city of Vinnytsia in July 2022, which killed 28 people, including three children. Ukrainian media indicated the missiles were fired by a submarine called the Krasnodar which Rzhitsky commanded at the time. Of course, we have to be skeptical of all narratives from the Russian and Ukrainian press given the covert influence in this conflict. (Photo Credit: Strava) US Military & Smartwatches In recent years, there has been an explosion of US uniformed personnel wearing Apple Watches and other “wearables,” with many servicemen purchasing them on the open market and wearing them while in uniform. The health and physical fitness benefits are legitimate and can result in a more effective warfighter. The DOD has even gone as far as to issue Garmin Fenix 6S and other smartwatches in an “effort to help future leaders be better, faster.” (Ironically, this is the same watch worn by the Russian commander.) But the risks are real and according to an Army Criminal Investigation Division (CID) bulletin from June 2023, service members across the military received unsolicited smartwatches in the mail, devices that auto-connected to wifi and other nearby devices. According to the report, the devices included malware that “accesses both voice and cameras, enabling actors to access conversations and accounts tied to smartwatches.” A report from Kaspersky, a cybersecurity company, suggests that the accelerometer data that tracks the movement of your wrist can be analyzed to determine passwords and credit card numbers. June 2023 Army CID Bulletin New Apple Watch Series 10 The timing of the more recent statement is fortuitous. Apple just unveiled the Apple Watch Series 10 the same week, on the 10th anniversary of the original Apple Watch. While we won't rehash the updates, suffice it to say the device still has a microphone, cellular and Bluetooth capabilities, and updated software to collect biometrics and track your every move. Intelligence services around the globe were likely analyzing this release closely, in an effort to identify vulnerabilities for exploitation. According to publicly available data, an estimated 1.3 million Americans maintain a Top Secret security clearance and a total of 4.2 million people have access to classified information. Industry estimates suggest 10 to 20% of all Americans use a smartwatch or fitness tracker, which—if this percentage holds for members of the intelligence community and military—creates significant attack vectors to be exploited for pattern-of-life tracking and to attempt to access classified and Sensitive But Unclassified (SBU) networks. A Delta Force operator wearing an Apple Watch in Afghanistan in 2019. But I Am Not A Spy, Why Should I Care? Of course, most people will say, “I am not a super spy, why do I care if someone tracks me?” The 2023 Army CID report indicated the malware could access credit card information and potentially report that back to a home base to be exploited. Further, it doesn't matter if you are a Russian submarine commander or just a regular person. In 2022, Moriah Wilson, a 25-year-old elite cyclist, was tracked using Strava data and murdered in Texas by another woman who was involved with the same man as Wilson. After Wilson’s death, Strava reportedly added functionality obscuring start and end locations for fitness activities and further privacy-enhancing features, but the app still risks sharing significant information about a person’s location and routes that could be exploited by bad actors. What Can I Do About It? The simplest solution is to go analog. Don’t be a fool, use a real tool. Even the best state hackers (APTs) can’t hack a Seiko. Save the smartwatches for fitness-only activity and ensure your settings on the data are as restricted and “private” as possible. That said, we understand some W.O.E. professions require a GPS-enabled timepiece to effectively carry out specific tasks. In this case, we encourage you to explore some of the privacy-conscious models like Garmin that contain a “Stealth Mode” that (supposedly) disables tracking technology and a “kill switch” to delete all of your data. However, these functions are only as good as the provider, and Garmin has been the subject of several targeted attacks, including a 2020 ransomware hack where the company reportedly paid Russian cyber criminals $10 million to regain access to systems. If you work for an elite unit, make sure you pass this watch to your tech specialists to see if it really does what it claims to do. Given my background, I am always skeptical of technical solutions for technical problems… sometimes it's best to do things the old-fashioned way. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: CIA Officers and Apple Watches
Read MoreThe Dalai Lama, Watches, & Espionage
How A Spiritual Leader Became A Watch-Collecting Icon - It All Started With The Office Of Strategic Services We have discussed the operational role of...
Read MoreHow A Spiritual Leader Became A Watch-Collecting Icon - It All Started With The Office Of Strategic Services We have discussed the operational role of timepieces in espionage and how they can be tools in the agent recruitment cycle—the transition of an individual from a target to a recruited asset (aka spy). Espionage is a human business and watches are transferable stores of value that have personal meaning, traits that make them effective tools of intelligence tradecraft. One of the earliest documented examples of this is with an unlikely figure, His Holiness the XIVth Dalai Lama. While there is no indication that the Dalai Lama was a recruited asset of the OSS or CIA, he was provided a watch as a tool to build a relationship and gain influence. OSS Officers Ilia Tolstoy and Brooke Dolan may have inadvertently spurred the Dalai Lama's love of watches. In 1943, Ilia Tolstoy and Brooke Dolan, both members of CIA’s predecessor, the Office of Strategic Services (OSS), presented the Dalai Lama with a Patek Philippe reference 658 on behalf of US President Franklin Delano Roosevelt. Reportedly, the purpose of the gift was to win the Dalai Lama’s support for a potential road through Tibet into China to assist the Chinese in fighting the Japanese. The watch clearly had meaning for the Dalai Lama and is something he still carries today. In contrast to the agent recruitment cycle, this operational gift was more of a rapport builder between “liaison,” a colloquial term to capture third-country intelligence services that work jointly with CIA. The Dalai Lama’s Patek Philippe reference 658, gifted to him by FDR via a pair of OSS officers during WWII. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) Tenzin Gyatso was born in 1935, ascending to his position as the Dalai Lama when he was only four years old. Having served as the Dalai Lama—the spiritual leader of Tibetan Buddhism—for 84 years, the 14th Dalai Lama has lived what would by any standard be called an interesting life, with a common thread being his continued advocacy for the welfare and autonomy of Tibetan citizens. Part of a global effort to undermine communism, the US Government reportedly had a close relationship with the Dalai Lama and his brothers since the days of the OSS, providing a whole lot of money in return for the Dalai Lama’s continued maintenance of at least the idea of Tibetan sovereignty. Despite the covert influence of the United States on the region, Tibet’s whole sovereignty thing didn’t work out, and the Dalai Lama was ultimately exiled by the Chinese government in 1959 to India, where he still lives today and continues to serve as a seminal figure for Buddhists around the world. In more recent years, the Dalai Lama has also become a person of interest for watch enthusiasts, boasting a small but intriguing collection including some of the most storied names in Swiss watchmaking. In this Dispatch, we’ll take a closer look at the Dalai Lama’s history with horology including a watch closely tied to the world of international espionage. You can’t make this stuff up. A Rare Patek Philippe Reference & The OSS The Dalai Lama with his Patek Philippe 658 at an event in Washington, DC in 2016. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) Presented in greater detail by Eric Wind over on Hodinkee, the abridged version of the story of the Dalai Lama receiving a rare Patek Philippe goes that a pair of Office of Strategic Services (OSS) Officers, Captain Brooke Dolan and Major Ilia Tolstoy, trekked across India, China, and Tibet on a diplomatic mission to meet the Dalai Lama and present him with gifts in an apparent effort to recognize Tibet’s autonomy within the region. OSS Officers Captain Brooke Dolan and Major Ilia Tolstoy during their 100-day trek to Lhasa, Tibet’s capital city. (Photo Credit: US National Archives) The impetus behind the mission was more complicated than simply meeting the Dalai Lama. The United States, embroiled in World War II, was also desperate to create an overland route connecting China and India to outfit the Chinese in their war against Japan. This path would have no choice but to pass through Tibet, and so Captain Brooke Dolan II, a soldier and explorer, and Major Ilya Tolstoy, a naturalist, explorer, and the grandson of Leo Tolstoy, ventured some 100 days by horseback through rugged terrain to Lhasa, Tibet’s remote capital. The Dalai Lama’s Patek Philippe Reference 658 is one of only 15 ever made. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) When the OSS officers finally reached the spiritual leader, among their gifts was a Patek Philippe reference 658, one of only 15 ever made, and including a perpetual calendar chronograph, a minute repeater, and a split-seconds chronograph. What led FDR to select such an expensive Swiss watch remains a mystery, but what is certain is that the overly complicated gold pocket watch was intended to win favor with the Dalai Lama and receive his blessing for a road through the region. It was a tool of diplomacy and espionage. While there are numerous examples of intelligence officers using watches to influence or recruit sources, FDR’s gift of a Patek Philippe to the Dalai Lama has to be among the most high profile. It’s unclear whether the Patek Philippe served to foster the Dalai Lama’s well-established love of horology, but it probably didn’t hurt. Even more surprisingly, the Dalai Lama has been seen carrying the watch as recently as 2016, which is a flex of the highest level. The Dalai Lama & The Crown His Holiness wearing a Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18038 on an elastic metal strap. In addition to his celebrated Patek Philippe, the Dalai Lama also has several Rolex models in his collection with a tendency to wear them on simple elastic metal bracelets like many other men in their 80s tended to do. One of His Holiness’s most worn Rolex models appears to be his Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18038, a watch we are also willing to go out on a limb and say was probably a gift. Given the oversized elasticated metal bracelet and the Dalai Lama’s slender wrists, the watch almost always sits inside his wrist, making the otherwise ostentatious look of the gold Rolex more subtle. It’s less often seen, but there is also photographic evidence to suggest the Dalai Lama owns at least one other Rolex, a two-tone Datejust on its signature Jubilee bracelet. In Tibetan Buddhism, letting go of material possessions and excess in a quest for spiritual enlightenment is a core tenet, making the Dalai Lama’s penchant for luxury watches from Switzerland a bit surprising (contradictory?). However, considering the high probability His Holiness was gifted the watches, we are prepared to let it slide. Further, the Dalai Lama’s interest in watches appears to be deeper than the trappings of European luxury as His Holiness is also known to tinker with and repair watches for personal enjoyment. It’s hard to know the specific reference without a better shot of the dial, but the Dalai Lama’s other Rolex appears to be a two-tone Datejust. His Holiness The Watchmaker Various unconfirmed sources claim the Dalai Lama owns as many as 15 watches, with many of them products of his love for mechanical tinkering and watchmaking in particular. Despite his interest, the Dalai Lama does not appear to be an expert, however. In his book, Ethics for the New Millennium, His Holiness says: “I have always enjoyed repairing watches. But I can remember a number of occasions as a boy when, completely losing my patience with those tiny, intricate parts, I picked up the mechanism and smashed it down on the table. Of course, later I felt very sorry and ashamed of my behavior—especially when, as on one occasion, I had to return the watch to its owner in a condition worse than it was before!" An as-yet unidentified Valjoux 7751-powered chronograph on the Dalai Lama’s wrist. In addition to the Patek Philippe and Rolex models we mentioned, the Dalai Lama has also been spotted wearing a couple of different chronographs that appear to be powered by the Valjoux 7751 and therefore could have come from a variety of different brands. It could be this is a caliber he enjoys tinkering with, but that is pure speculation. A Love Of Watches Spawned By The OSS? It would be a leap to argue that the gift of a rare Patek Philippe reference to the young Dalai Lama in 1943 galvanized his apparent lifelong love of watches, but we'd like to believe the OSS played a role in creating one of history's most unexpected watch enthusiasts. In any case, the tie-in between His Holiness, horology, and espionage is intriguing, showing once again that no matter where you go, whether we’re talking about an elite special operator, a politician, an intelligence officer, or the leader of Tibetan Buddhism, passion for timepieces runs deep and across virtually all demographic qualifiers. It’s unclear whether the Dalai Lama reads the Dispatch or subscribes to the “Use Your Tools” ethos, but his enthusiasm for watchmaking is real. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: CIA Analysis of Foreign Leaders’ Timepieces
Read MoreA Navy SEAL Turned Mercenary & A Rolex Submariner
American Mercenary details the movie-like career of a SEAL Team Six assaulter turned gun for hire. The one constant throughout his career was a Rolex...
Read MoreAmerican Mercenary details the movie-like career of a SEAL Team Six assaulter turned gun for hire. The one constant throughout his career was a Rolex Submariner on his wrist. Belgrade, Serbia - 2017 Working as a private intelligence collector, former Navy SEAL Daniel Corbett found himself in an unenviable situation. While visiting a source to collect information on a terrorist financier, the door flew open, and in walked plain-clothes Serbian police officers, one of which pointed a shaking pistol at his head. Corbett would spend the next 18 months in a Serbian jail, charged with possession and trafficking of explosives and illegal firearms, and even accused in the press of attempting to assassinate the Serbian President. But this was not Corbett’s first rodeo, a former SEAL Team Six assaulter who later became a “mercenary,” Corbett’s career began at a young age. He completed the arduous Basic Underwater Demolition/SEAL (BUD/S) selection process at 18 years old and screened for Naval Special Warfare’s Development Group (SEAL Team Six) at 23. Corbett conducted multiple combat deployments with DEVGRU’s famed Red Squadron and participated in the highly publicized rescue of Captain Phillips off the coast of Somalia in 2009. A gifted linguist, Corbett then departed the relative comfort of the Teams for the murky world of private military contracting, spending years conducting anti-piracy operations off the coast of Africa, mercenary train-advise-assist operations in Yemen, and collecting private intelligence for unspecified clients in unspecified locations. A Rolex Submariner Reference 16610 From the SEAL Teams to private military contracting, one constant throughout his career was the presence of a Rolex Submariner on his wrist. Corbett is a self-described non-materialist, but the timepiece has deep meaning and operational utility. Initially acquired as a nod to the old school Frogmen who were issued Tudor and Rolex Submariners, the role of the timepiece would evolve during Corbett’s time as a contractor, serving as a tool to build relationships and to potentially use for escape and evasion. When he was arrested in 2017, Corbett signed for his Rolex and other possessions before being held in a Serbian jail, awaiting his fate. The pro-Russian press reported he was sent to Serbia to assassinate Serbian President Aleksandar Vucic, a convenient narrative in an election year. Remarkably, Corbett’s Submariner was returned to him when his case was unceremoniously dismissed. Corbett in Korean language school. Mercenary vs Contractor The term “mercenary” is overused to the point it’s almost meaningless. Generally agreed to describe “a professional soldier hired to serve in a foreign army,” mercenary is used by commentators to degrade private military contractors and by contractors to inflate their role as… well, just contractors. That said, mercenaries certainly exist and play a significant role in the world of gray zone conflict. While Corbett’s anti-piracy work is more accurately described as that of a contractor, the transition to Yemen and intelligence collection in Serbia arguably places him in the murky world of true mercenary work on behalf of a foreign government or non-state entity. Corbett details his experience as both a contractor and mercenary in the newly released book, American Mercenary, The Riveting, High-Risk World of an Elite SEAL Team Operator Turned Hired Gun. We spoke with Corbett to learn more about his career and the role of the Rolex Submariner. San Diego, California - May 2007 After returning from a deployment to the Philippines with SEAL Team 5, Corbett attended a West Coast SEAL Reunion along with some older frogmen, many of whom were wearing their issued Tudor and Rolex Submariners. Corbett wasn’t a “watch guy” and previously had no idea about the SEAL-Rolex connection. He was enamored with the timepiece and the subtle but important meaning it had for his community. In our conversation, Corbett recalled, “I have always liked the culture of a symbol or object that if you are a part of that group, you know.” Like the patches he would later wear at SEAL Team Six, Submariner dive watches were part of the culture of his tribe. When shown the beat-up Subs on the wrists of veteran frogmen, the young SEAL thought to himself, “That’s fucking cool.” He needed one of his own. Shortly thereafter, Corbett visited the Fourtane Rolex Boutique at Fashion Valley Mall in San Diego. Walking in wearing board shorts and flip-flops, the sales associate skeptically agreed to let him try on a pre-ceramic Rolex Submariner reference 16610. When he held the Rolex, he quickly said “I am leaving the store today with this,” producing his Navy Federal Debit Card, flush with cash saved up from his last deployment. Green Team & SEAL Team Six Shortly after acquiring the Submariner, Corbett was invited to attend “Green Team,” Naval Special Warfare’s selection course for SEAL Team Six. While he doesn't recall wearing the Submariner during selection, he remarked that he rarely took it off for a simple reason—he hated winding it. The watch was an extension of himself and a part of his persona. After passing selection and arriving at Red Squadron, his eyes were opened to the broader world of watches. In the “regular” SEAL Teams, Corbett rarely encountered other Team Guys with high-end timepieces but at DEVGRU, watches were deeply ingrained in the unit’s culture. Corbett remembered, “I started seeing guys with Explorers, Pepsi GMTs, Submariners, and of course Panerais at Red Squadron. I started actually learning about watches, and there was a strong watch culture at the command.” Corbett explained that most of these timepieces were reserved for home or training, but others did wear them on operations. It was at this point that Corbett met fellow Red Squadron assaulter and dog handler, Will Chesney, who wore a Rolex Submariner on the Usama Bin Laden raid (read HERE). Afghanistan - 2009 For Corbett, the Rolex rarely left his wrist. During a 2009 vehicle interdiction operation in Afghanistan, a piece of shrapnel damaged the crystal after he shot a suspected suicide bomber at close range, causing the militant to drop a primed grenade. Let that sink in for a moment. In the midst of combat, Corbett used the green glow of his night vision goggles to check his Rolex, recognizing a deep scratch on the crystal. He was pissed, and he would have rather the shrapnel go into his arm instead of his sole prized possession. When he returned from deployment, he had the crystal replaced in Virginia Beach. Maersk Alabama - Indian Ocean - April 2009 On April 8th, 2009, four Somali pirates hijacked the US-flagged Maersk Alabama off the coast of Somalia, eventually taking Captain Richard Phillips hostage on the ship’s lifeboat. Corbett’s squadron was activated as a part of a rescue operation, jumping out of planes into the ocean before positioning themselves on the USS Bainbridge. Corbett’s Submariner also made the trip. While gearing up for the combat jump, another SEAL jokingly remarked, “You must be single!”, a comment that implied only a single SEAL would bring a Rolex on a combat jump. Corbett thought to himself that it was pretty cool he was wearing his Rolex on a combat jump into the Indian Ocean, but it wasn’t a conscious decision, he simply wore the watch everywhere. Within 4 days of the hijacking, snipers in Corbett’s squadron shot and killed the three Somali pirates, rescuing Captain Phillips and inspiring the 2013 film of the same name. SEAL wearing a Rolex Submariner during aerial training op out of the back of a MH-60S Sea Hawk helicopter deployed aboard the aircraft carrier USS George H.W. Bush, Aug 2011. (Photo Credit: Department of Defense) American Mercenary After a falling out with members of his command, Corbett made the difficult decision to leave SEAL Team Six and return to NSW, spending two years instructing junior SEALs in Close Quarters Combat, a skill set in which Corbett excelled. But he missed the action and after a chance encounter with a former SEAL Team guy, he was recruited into the gray world of private military contracting, initially conducting anti-piracy operations off the coast of Somalia, an assignment he found relatively mundane. Aden, Yemen - 2016 After returning to reserve SEAL Team 17 and completing sniper school, Corbett was offered another contract with Trident Group, initially working in Abu Dhabi training an Emirati Special Unit before deploying with them to a base in Yemen. At this point, Corbet arguably transitioned from contractor to mercenary, working for a foreign government conducting counterterrorism operations jointly with a third country, the United Arab Emirates partner force. Tradecraft - Cigarettes, Cash, & A Rolex Corbett completed intelligence training in the Navy, but his new calling required an adaptation in mindset —a transition from a member of an elite unit with all the resources and protection of the US government to a contractor operating as a singleton with no diplomatic protection. An early mentor explained the benefit of wearing a Rolex in nonpermissive environments as a potential bargaining chip and a store of value. It was a principle that Corbett summed up as “Marlboro Reds, Cash, and a Rolex.” If stuck at a checkpoint, he would initially offer a pack of cigarettes to smooth things over. If that didn't work, then cash. The Rolex was a last resort, but something he was willing to give up if his life were on the line. Describing this mindset, Corbett stated matter-of-factly: “My Rolex is my currency.” Belgrade, Serbia - 2017 In 2017, Corbett agreed to travel to Serbia as a singleton to collect information on a suspected terrorist financier for later use as blackmail. Corbet focused on “wiring the AOR,” building relationships with individuals close to the target. He developed a network of individuals in Belgrade, many of which had questionable associations. In this case, Corbett’s Rolex served as a tool to establish credibility and build relationships. Many of the social brokers he developed had access to significant funds and displayed their wealth through timepieces. Spending his nights at bars and clubs, the Rolex gave him a basic form of legitimacy and assisted in his relationship-building efforts. Corbett explained, “I could not have established legitimacy wearing a Casio, the Rolex was just enough to give me legitimacy when others wore AP (Audemars Piguet)” and other luxury watches. The Rolex was a tool. (Photo Credit: Buzzfeed) The operation was short-lived. Corbett’s 2017 arrest launched him on another mission, to gain his freedom from charges for crimes he claims he never committed. Corbett spent the next 18 months in jail, facing a 12-year sentence for trumped-up charges. The police seized Corbett’s few belongings including his cellphone, passport, Rolex, and cuff links, all of which he signed for. He was placed in a cell with a state-sponsored assassin, drug addicts, and various other individuals with questionable backgrounds. Without his Rolex, Corbett felt naked, experiencing a phenomenon over the first few months of his imprisonment that he called “phantom Rolex,” often shaking his wrist expecting to feel the reassuring weight of the watch that never came. Local Tabloid: “SEAL is ready to settle. To discover whom I came to kill. Just save my head” For months Corbett had little insight into his fate, with periodic court visits separated by months with limited contact with the outside world. In July 2018, his lawyer was killed in a gang-style shooting, something that Corbett insists was unrelated to his case. Throughout his confinement, he was confident that the government had no case but concerned that he was caught up in inescapable political intrigue. Fully prepared to spend 12 years in jail, Corbett developed friendships with many of the inmates. Corbett leaving the courthouse post-trial. On June 19th, 2019, Corbett was acquitted of all charges and unceremoniously told to leave the country. He returned to the jail to get his belongings and during out-processing, he was handed a zip-lock bag with his passport and—unbelievably—his Rolex Submariner. He was skeptical that it may have been replaced with a fake but was able to confirm it was indeed his Rolex, recognizing the scratches from over a decade of wear. He immediately slipped the watch back on his wrist and after a short stop at the Customs Police Station was free to leave. Falling back on his network of contacts, he spent a night in a hotel owned by the Hells Angels and left the country the next day. Arizona - 2024 After being released from prison, Corbett returned to the US without fanfare but with an extensive list of bills and expenses from being off the grid for 18 months. Corbett quickly returned to contracting, taking an unspecified gig in South America (he refused to elaborate). The Rolex remains one of his sole prized possessions and remains on his wrist not only as a tool but also as a reminder of his incredible Hollywood-like experiences to date. American Mercenary Corbett has channeled his experience into instructing weapons and tactics for the Sentient Shooting Group. After much consideration, Corbett decided to document his experiences in the newly released book, American Mercenary, The Riveting, High-Risk World of an Elite SEAL Team Operator Turned Hired Gun. While we like to make fun of SEALs writing books as much as the next guy, Corbett’s story is not another SEAL book. American Mercenary provides a first-hand look into the murky world of Private Military Contracting, private intelligence collection, and mercenaries. Whatever is next for Corbett, we can be confident his Rolex Submariner will be on his wrist. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Trading a Rolex to Get out of a Sticky Situation - Myth or Reality?
Read MoreThe Watches of Hamas, ISIS, & the Taliban
Is an Obscure Islamic Digital Watch The New Choice Of Terrorists & Non-State Actors? We once called the Casio F91W the “Preferred Watch Of Terrorists”...
Read MoreIs an Obscure Islamic Digital Watch The New Choice Of Terrorists & Non-State Actors? We once called the Casio F91W the “Preferred Watch Of Terrorists” based largely on its associations with Usama bin Laden who was often photographed wearing the attainable Japanese digital watch before his impromptu meeting with SEAL Team Six in 2011. However, recent photographs of leaders of prominent terrorist organizations may indicate a changing tide in the arena of tool watches of terror. The watches are produced by a brand called Al-Fajr, which is based in Saudi Arabia and known for its collection of what it calls “Islamic” watches and clocks that have functions specific to Islam including prayer time alarms and the ability to determine Qibla direction. We have written extensively about politicians and world leaders using timepieces as subtle communicative objects, and terrorist leaders are no different. The price is modest, ranging from sub-$100 to $300, marking an affordable option for the supposed pious individuals, many of which have access to extensive sums of money. Siraj Haqqani, seen here wearing an Al-Fajr watch, is the Taliban’s Interior Minister in Afghanistan’s post-2021 government. While the associations are likely unintended, the brand’s roots and Islamic functions have made the brand the new watch of choice for several leaders of prominent terror organizations including but not limited to Hamas, the Islamic State, and the Taliban. *To be very clear, this article is not a condemnation of Al-Fajr or Islam, just an observation of the tools worn by those at the tip of the (terrorism) spear. Also, coverage does not equal endorsement, each of these groups is designated as a Foreign Terrorist Organization (FTO) by the US Department of State. Hamas Assassinated Hamas leader Ismail Haniyeh wearing an intriguing digital Al-Fajr Islamic watch. The impetus for this article stems from the events of July 31st, 2024, when the political leader of Hamas, Ismail Haniyeh, was assassinated in the Iranian capital of Tehran. In recent photographs preceding his assassination, which was reportedly carried out by Israeli assets who placed an explosive device in a guesthouse in which he was supposed to stay, Haniyeh wore an Al-Fajr Islamic watch, marking one of our first interactions with the brand. As with all politicians or world leaders, it is safe to assume this Islam-specific watch was also worn to convey a message, one that is not exclusive to the departed Hamas leader. Read about watches worn in the Israel-Palestine conflict HERE. ISIS ISIS Emir Abu Bakr al-Baghdadi wearing an Al-Fajr watch in 2014. Former Islamic State Emir Abu Bakr al-Baghdadi made one of his few public appearances in 2014 when he delivered a sermon at the Great Mosque of al-Nuri in Mosul, Iraq. Press reporting was quick to note the steel watch on his right hand, speculating that it was potentially an expensive Rolex or Omega “Seafarer.” (Of note, there is no Omega “Seafarer”.) This would have been notable in itself; however, it appears the watch is another example of an Al-Fajr Islamic watch being worn by a prominent terrorist. Further, he was also wearing the watch on his right hand, which some believe is in line with Islamic tradition. ISIS maintained a sophisticated PR and media wing that could rival any nation-state, so it stands to reason that significant thought was put into al-Baghdadi’s watch before this recording of one of his few public appearances, but of course, this is simply speculation. Taliban Mullah Yaqoob, the Taliban’s Defense Minster, photographed in 2024 wearing a general’s military uniform and a gold-tone Al-Fajr Islamic watch. Anointed the Taliban’s Defense Minister in the wake of the US withdrawal from Afghanistan in 2021, Mullah Yaqoob was recently photographed wearing a military uniform complete with the rank of general and another, slightly different watch from Al-Fajr with a gold-tone case. As was the case for Ismail Haniyeh, choosing a watch produced by a brand based in the Middle East with Islam-centric functionality serves two-fold, first acting as a legitimate tool for a practitioner of Islam and second as an element of propaganda intended to showcase the ingenuity and technical manufacturing capabilities of the broader Islamic world. When A Watch Is More Than Just A Watch As we’ve often discussed with political leaders and other globally impactful individuals, a watch often serves as far more than its core timekeeping functionality may suggest, instead acting as a symbol of power, ingenuity, and/or unity within certain communities. For leaders of terrorist organizations to wear watches designed with Islam in mind especially when in the public eye demonstrates an awareness of the importance of media, propaganda, and influence, once again demonstrating that it’s never just a watch. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: CIA Analysis of Foreign Leaders’ Timepieces *Featured Image Credit: Claire Harbage/NPR
Read MoreIstanbul: Shopping For Vintage Watches, Spy Cameras, & Cold War Artifacts
Istanbul is one of the espionage capitals of the world, so it’s no surprise you can find spy artifacts for sale in the world's most...
Read MoreIstanbul is one of the espionage capitals of the world, so it’s no surprise you can find spy artifacts for sale in the world's most famous bazaar. It’s difficult to write about Istanbul without falling into cliches, but there is a palpable romantic mystique and energy in the city on the Bosphorus. This is especially true in the Grand Bazaar where culture, both genuine and contrived, is on full display. That said, when I visit covered markets in the Middle East, rarely am I buying, maybe a trinket to bring back to the kids, but that’s it. Aren’t these just overpriced shops geared towards tourists? But this trip was different, I spent hours exploring the deepest corners of the Grand Bazaar and discovered a unique vintage Tudor Oyster Prince, two Minox “spy” Cameras, and a Cold War era Protona Minifon watch, which contains a microphone to surreptitiously record conversations. Istanbul, July 2024 Earlier this month, I visited the Grand Bazaar on a mission to acquire a “super-clone” counterfeit Rolex, the subject of a previous Dispatch (read HERE). Walking through the vast covered market, a local friend could tell I had the “been here, done this” look and offered to show me the Antique Market, situated in the hall of Cevahir Bedestan. What I found was a series of stores with vintage collectibles, real watches, and a surprising amount of military and intelligence memorabilia—all things I like. The Old Bazaar is by no means a hidden secret, but in an area stretching 64 streets and over 4,000 stalls, it’s not exactly a place you stumble on. I visited the Bazaar numerous times over 20 years and never saw it. It’s a far cry from the more trinket-focused main avenues most tourists pass through. Istanbul - A City Of Espionage Istanbul is a remarkable tourist destination, complete with rich culture, tasty cuisine, and historical sites from centuries of different ruling empires. But, below the surface of the 15-17 million tourists visiting the city each year are more sinister travelers: spies, assassins, and individuals who traffic in arms and illicit antiquities. “If the Earth were a single state, Istanbul would be its capital.” – attributed to Napoleon Bonaparte For the same reasons this quote rings true, the city formerly known as Constantinople could also be described as the espionage capital of the world. Strategically located at the intersection of Asia and Europe, Istanbul is a short flight from London, Moscow, and Tehran. Turkey borders many hotspots including Iraq, Syria, and Iran, and is in direct proximity to the conflicts in Ukraine and Israel. While Ankara is the capital, many nations, including the US, maintain robust diplomatic missions (i.e. embassies and consulates) along the Bosphorus. Embassies and consulates mean spies. A History Lesson You can’t mention espionage and Istanbul without discussing James Bond. In From Russia with Love, 007 works to retrieve a Soviet cipher machine from Tatiana Romanova, and in Skyfall, Daniel Craig’s Bond conducts a high-speed chase through the Grand Bazaar. The backdrop of Istanbul makes for an exciting setting, but this connection is rooted in real espionage. Ian Fleming himself was a real intelligence officer and reportedly traveled to Istanbul in 1955 to attend an Interpol conference as a member of the Scotland Yard delegation. More recent examples of Istanbul serving as the front lines for the Great Game are numerous, and many of them have ended up on the front pages of newspapers. This past year Turkey arrested a network of individuals with reported ties to Mossad who were tasked with collecting information on Palestinians in Turkey. In 2018, Saudi intelligence officers murdered a critic of the Kingdom Jamal Khashoggi in the Saudi consulate in Istanbul. Iranians have gotten in on the action, with a MOIS assassination of former Iranian cybersecurity official turned regime critic Mas’ud Vardanjani in 2019. These are just the publicly available incidents. MQ-1B Predator from the 414th Expeditionary Reconnaissance Squadron 2012, at Incirlik Air Base, Turkey (DOD) The United States In Turkey The United States maintains a significant overt security presence in the country. According to Wikipedia, Incirlik Air Base Air Base houses over 1,400 US DOD personnel, 39th Air Base Wing (39 ABW), and "up to'' 50 B61 nuclear bombs, ie tactical nuclear weapons. According to press reporting, Turkey was used as a base for the “Syrian Train and Equip Program” that supported Syrian opposition forces, a program acknowledged by former President Barack Obama. Turkey was a part of the F-35 joint strike fighter program until it was removed in 2020 after the acceptance of the S-400 Russian-made air defense system. “The Great Game” is often used to describe the intelligence war fought between nation-states and using this analogy, Istanbul is the playing field. Turkey itself maintains a robust intelligence service, MIT/TNIO, that is considered on par with many Western services. ISIS member looting artifacts and heritage sites in Syria/Iraq, 2015. Illegal Antiquities Trade In 1983, Turkey passed a law prohibiting the trade and export of antiquities, but that hasn’t prevented the country from becoming a hub for illicit antiquities trade, most notably artifacts looted and sold by the Islamic State during the caliphate in Iraq and Syria in the 2010s. Far from the tourist shops in Istanbul, the southern city of Gaziantep is widely understood as the hub for this activity, the initial sale point before entering the wider antiquities market. All this to say, it’s no surprise that one can find interesting and highly collectible espionage artifacts in Istanbul. Spy Gear & Watches - Shopping In Istanbul Tudor Oyster Prince - Onder Vintage Watches - Stall No. 172 Walking into the Old Bazaar, my first stop was one of the few (legitimate) watch stores. In contrast to the fancy boutiques north of the old town, the windows are lined with hundreds of vintage timepieces, everything from Rolex and Omega to Doxa and Hamilton. For the most part, the vintage watches are “real” although many of them had significant replacement parts and refinished dials, likely a product of shotty service vs an attempt to deceive the buyer. Several stores had Arabic-branded dials, but without clear documentation or provenance, a purchase would be reckless. I started sending pictures to my friend Ross Povey of Tudor Collector and he provided feedback on each watch in real time. Many were a hard pass due to condition, but then I came across a vintage mid-1970s Tudor Prince Oysterdate with an integrated bracelet and a two-tone dial and chapter ring. There was something about the watch that spoke to me because it wasn’t within my wheelhouse. Yes, I love Tudors of Espionage (T.O.E.s), but that is generally synonymous with tool watches. The dainty 38mm dress watch with an integrated bracelet just isn’t typically my style. Mid-1970s Tudor Oyster Prince The condition was mediocre, with a bent bracelet link, but the price was right, about 1/3rd of the price in the UK according to Ross. The idea of spontaneously buying a watch, in one of the world's oldest bazaars was too good to pass up. It wasn’t without risk, but it was a risk worth taking. The first rule of negotiating at a bazaar is don't be thirsty. I thanked the shop owners and left, but I returned a couple of hours later and bartered the price down a few hundred dollars, paying in crisp $100 bills for the final push. Minox Spy Cameras - Minyatür - Stall No. 240-241 Next Stop was Minyatür, the most interesting antique store I found during my time in Istanbul. The small store is packed wall to wall with vintage oddities, including a significant selection of militaria and nautical items. But what caught my attention were the Minox subminiature cameras in the window, labeled “Spy Cameras.” Developed in Germany in the late 1930s, the various evolutions of the Minox camera were used by several intelligence services, including the CIA and the KGB during the Cold War. The miniature size, 50+ image capacity, and high-resolution lens made it ideal for clandestine photography, most notably to photograph documents. Minox was issued to and used by several notable spies, including convicted KGB spy John A. Walker, Jr. I spoke with the owner, Haluk Yedek, a second-generation merchant. His father opened up the shop in 1962 with Haluk taking the reins in the mid-1990s. The cameras themselves were more expensive than what could be found online, and while Haluk was willing to come down some, it was clear we had reached his lowest point. I made a final cash offer on a Minox B from 1958-1969 and a Minox C from 1969-1978. The condition was overall good. It wasn’t quite new old stock, but not far off. Haluk Yedek, a second-generation antique dealer. As I left the shop, I couldn't help but wonder about the path these items took over the past half-decade from Germany to Istanbul. Unfortunately, Haluk couldn't recall where he purchased them, saying that most items came from locals and estate sales. Hanhart Protana “Spy Watch” - Takara Vintage Watches - Stall No. 191/191 The final stop was Takara Vintage Watches at stall No. 191/192. As I entered the market, I noticed a beat-up Protona Minifon “spy watch” in one window. Probably one of the greatest examples of “spy gear,” the “watch” contained a microphone to surreptitiously record conversations during the Cold War era. The case is perforated and a cord runs out of the 9 o’clock up the wearer's arm to the tape recorder. The “watch” itself does not keep time and the movement has been removed to make space for the microphone. The condition was poor, but I couldn't help myself. Interestingly, a recent exhibition from Turkey’s National Intelligence Organization (MIT) displaying espionage artifacts revealed that MIT indeed used several wristwatches with recording devices for “various operations.” Had the watch been issued by MIT and somehow ended up in the souk? Probably not, but it was too intoxicating to pass up. Another small stack of crisp hundred dollar bills left my hand to the all too happy merchant. It was a pleasure doing business. Istanbul Airport Arriving at the Istanbul airport departure terminal, I was a little nervous. In my carry-on were 5 watches (one with a microphone embedded) and two spy cameras. While not prohibited items, it would be awkward to explain during secondary customs or security questioning. “I am a former CIA Case Officer and I run an online journal about watches and espionage” would likely raise some eyebrows. Further, I knew that the Turkish intelligence services were well-respected and had capabilities that matched that of our peer adversaries (Russia and China). While I am generally not concerned about security while traveling, I did ask several friends for contacts in the US Embassy “just in case.” To my relief, the customs process was uneventful and the flight to London was a breeze. Richmond, Virginia - July 2024 Back home, the Minox cameras have been added to the shelf in my office and sit next to other oddities collected over decades of world travel. As I write this, the Tudor Oyster Prince taps on my laptop, keeping perfect time. These items are talismans, mementos of my time in Istanbul, and physical representations of the people I met and the experiences I had. Their value is not monetary but derived from the human element, the true source of intrigue behind timepieces, at least for me. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: The Real Spy Gadget Watches of the CIA, KGB, MIT and German Intelligence *This article has been reviewed by the CIA's Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.
Read MoreA Second Seiko 6139 Chronograph In Outer Space
The Watch Journey Of A Vietnam Fighter Pilot & Astronaut by Nick Ferrell NASA Astronaut and US Air Force Colonel Richard Covey recalls the first...
Read MoreThe Watch Journey Of A Vietnam Fighter Pilot & Astronaut by Nick Ferrell NASA Astronaut and US Air Force Colonel Richard Covey recalls the first time he glimpsed the sunrise over the curvature of the Earth from 150 miles up in space, “I thought two things: First, ‘Holy Cow!’ This was followed by wonder at the thin protective film of the Earth’s atmosphere, the only thing differentiating it from millions of lifeless rocks floating throughout the universe.” On Covey’s wrist was not his NASA-issued Omega Speedmaster Professional, but a 1970s Seiko 6139 chronograph, serving as the second now-confirmed instance of one of the world’s first automatic chronographs being used as a tool by NASA astronauts in space. Colonel Covey during the September 1985 Discovery Space Shuttle STS-51 mission with a 1971 Seiko 6139-6002 ”Cevert” on his right wrist and a 1980s Seiko A289-6019 on his left. (Photo Credit: NASA) Until recently, the legendary “Pogue” 6139 worn by Colonel William Pogue on 1973’s Skylab 4 was considered the only documented case of a 6139 in space. That is until I came across a photo of Colonel Covey during a space mission with what appeared to be a Seiko 6139 on one wrist with another then-unidentified watch on the other. Intrigued, I started my research. After some OSINT sleuthing and outreach, the Colonel himself agreed to speak with me. The Air Force, Becoming A Pilot, & Air Combat In Vietnam Covey’s path to becoming a NASA astronaut began in 1964 after attending the United States Air Force Academy (USAFA) and graduating with a degree in engineering. On his wrist upon arrival was cutting-edge watch tech for the day, an electronic Accutron 214 gifted by his family for high school graduation. Fascinated by all things rocketry, Covey was fortunate to find an Academy mentor to guide him toward his ultimate goal of flying in space as an astronaut. Colonel Richard Covey’s Accutron 214 Electric Watch (Photo Credit: Colonel Covey) In 1971, after graduating from the competitive USAFA-Purdue Aeronautics and Astronautics M.S. program as well as 18 months of jet pilot training in the F-100 Super Sabre supersonic fighter and A-37B Dragonfly subsonic light attack aircraft, Covey received orders to the Air Force’s 8th Special Operations Squadron (8th SOS). Following the Tet Offensive, the conflict in Vietnam continued to escalate. Covey knew he would be going to war. USAF A-37 Dragonfly, aka “Super Tweet” subsonic light attack jet (Photo Credit: Ken Hammond) After arriving at Bien Hoa AFB in South Vietnam, Covey primarily flew A-37B close-air support (CAS) sorties in support of the Cambodian Government against Khmer Rouge forces operating on the Ho Chi Minh trail. During his first tour, Covey purchased a Seiko 6139, the first automatic chronograph released only two years prior in 1969 alongside other pioneering automatic chronographs from brands like Heuer, Breitling, and Hamilton. A Seiko 6139 “Cevert” similar to the one Covey purchased at a PX during his first deployment to Vietnam. (Photo Credit: DC Vintage Watches) When asked why he selected the watch — a blue-dialed Seiko 6139-6002 “Cevert” — he noted it was, “...an oversized watch that made it not only functional, but very distinctive.” He labeled the 6139 a go-to among fellow combat pilots during both Vietnam tours, because “It was wholly up to the pilots to pick what watches best served them.” Covey, front row center wearing his 1971 Seiko 6139-6002 chronograph, poses with his 8th Special Operations Squadron, Bien Hoa Air Force Base, South Vietnam, 1971 (Photo Credit: Colonel Richard Covey) Also issued to the Japan Air Self-Defense Force in the 1970s, the 6139’s appeal wasn’t limited to military pilots, finding favor with French auto racing legend François Cevert (the source of the blue-dialed 6139’s “Cevert” nickname), Tetsu Ikuzawa, one of Japan’s most successful racing drivers, and even Pink Floyd drummer Nick Mason. A 1972 Seiko 6139-6002 chronograph and a Japanese Air Self-Defense Force-issued 1973 Seiko 6139-7012, w/official JASDF engravings on case back, alongside a NASA STS-26 flight patch (Photo Credit: DC Vintage Watches) In 1973, Covey arrived in Vietnam for his second deployment, this time with the storied 74th Tactical Fighter Squadron, flying CAS missions with the A-7D light attack jet. The Colonel noted this mission — which involved operating outside of Vietnam against Soviet and Chinese-supported allies in support of friendly governments — was held close to the chest and pilots were ordered not to speak about their missions. USAAF A-7D Corsair light attack jets over Southeast Asia (Photo Credit: USAF) In total, Covey flew 339 combat missions, the majority being pre-planned strikes informed by all-source intelligence, including intel gathered by the highly secretive Military Assistance Command, Vietnam – Studies and Observations Group (MACV-SOG) that has its own prominent Seiko associations. Coincidentally, SOG operator and former Dispatch subject Michael “Magnet” O’Byrne and Covey, both of whom used Seiko watches, had overlapping tours, with a high likelihood some of Covey’s missions were informed by O’Byrne’s SOG team—small world. Covey (standing) wearing his Seiko 6139-6002 at Bien Hoa AFB in South Vietnam alongside an A-37D Dragonfly. (Photo Credit: Colonel Richard Covey) Following his second tour in Vietnam, Covey, who still wore his 6139 every time he climbed into a cockpit, became a test pilot, flying F-4 Phantoms, A-7Ds, and F-15s until 1979 when he achieved his lifelong dream of joining NASA to become an astronaut. NASA, Riding Explosions, & More Watches Colonel Covey wearing his 1971 Seiko 6139-6002 chronograph, NASA flight line at the Johnson Space Center, Houston, TX, 1978 (Photo Credit: NASA) After years of intensive training, Covey was assigned to his first space mission in 1985, serving as the pilot of Space Shuttle Discovery on Space Mission STS-51-I, tasked with deploying three communications satellites over seven days in space. Over 15 years including combat in Vietnam, flying as a test pilot, astronaut training, and his first space mission, Covey continued to reach for his Seiko 6139 — “I never took it off during that time.” This is all more impressive considering Covey was also the owner of an Omega Speedmaster Professional issued to him by NASA. Intriguing, Covey’s Seiko 6139 had competition on his first space mission, with the astronaut also wearing a quartz-powered 1980s Seiko A829-6019, a watch he said was widely favored by numerous NASA astronauts at the time. One watch was for Houston time, the other for Mission Elapsed Time (MET). When I asked where his Omega was, Covey quipped astronauts of the day favored Seiko over other watches due to the exceptional capabilities offered by the venerable Japanese brand. As was the case with Air Force fighter pilots in Vietnam, astronauts were free to choose watches that best served the unique requirements of their mission. A 1970s Seiko 6139-6002 on a news article celebrating the successful 1988 Discovery STS-26 space mission. Covey is to the immediate right of VPOTUS George Bush. (Photo Credit: DC Vintage Watch) Covey’s second space mission came in 1988 as the pilot of STS-26, again flying aboard the Discovery to deploy a TDRS-3 NASA space communications satellite. A somber mission crewed by space flight veterans, STS-26 was the first space flight following the Challenger disaster, an event that hit particularly close to home for Covey who served as the CAPCOM – the astronaut on Earth who communicates with crew members in their spacecraft – for the astronauts who perished in the accident. The crew of NASA’s STS-26 space mission, Colonel Covey front right wearing his 1980’s Seiko A289-6019, October 1988 (Photo Credit: NASA) Promoted to commander, Covey undertook two more space missions, STS-38 and STS-61, with some 16 days aboard the Space Shuttle Atlantis (1990) and the Endeavour (1993). STS-38 caught my eye, given its classified payload for the Department of Defense. Aviation Week reported the mission was suspected of having launched an electronics intelligence (ELINT) satellite headed for geosynchronous orbit to monitor the Desert Shield and Desert Storm conflicts. Some speculated a second satellite was also deployed, with a stealthier mission to covertly inspect other nation's geostationary satellites (Covey – “no comment”). In 2004, NBC published more details about the second bird, seemingly confirming its secretive mission. Actor Ed Harris playing NASA Flight Director Gene Kranz in the film Apollo 13, wearing a 1970s Seiko 6139 - this dial variant hadn’t debuted during the film’s timeline (Photo Credit: Universal Pictures) Were Apollo 13 (1995) film producers aware of Covey’s Seiko 6139? Ed Harris, as Flight Director Gene Kranz, wore one like Covey’s in the film. Who knows? After I joked the dark blue Seiko 6139 should be called “The Covey,” he noted he was aware of the gold-dialed Seiko 6139-6005 worn by astronaut Colonel William Pogue, aka “The Pogue” (also purchased at a PX) during his 1973 Skylab 4 space mission. Vintage advertisements for the Seiko 6139 and A829 favored by Covey and other astronauts. (Photo Credit: Seiko) While the Seiko 6139 accompanied Covey for his first space mission, his Seiko A829 served as his primary watch for all four of his space flights. (with his NASA-issued Omega Speedmaster as backup to his Seiko - the horror). Following his final space mission in 1993, Covey retired from the USAF and NASA in 1994 to work in several senior defense sector positions, ultimately retiring in 2010. Throughout Covey’s USAF and NASA career, he would be awarded dozens of medals, foremost being the DoD Distinguished Service Medal, five USAF Distinguished Flying Crosses (four in Vietnam with the A-37 Dragonfly, one for the classified STS-38 space mission), and the National Intelligence Medal of Achievement for STS-38. During his career, Covey flew over 5,700 hours in 30 airframes and traveled 4,433,772 miles in 163 orbits of the Earth over nearly 27 days. Today, the retired Colonel’s everyday watch is an Omega Speedmaster Professional X-33 gifted to Covey by Omega when it debuted in 1998. Colonel Covey receives the United States National Intelligence Medal of Achievement for his contributions to NASA’s classified STS-38 space mission. (Photo Credit: Colonel Richard Covey) But where are Covey’s space-flown watches Seiko watches today? Unfortunately, his Seiko A829 and NASA-issued Omega Speedmaster were stolen during a 1990’s break-in along with a two-tone Rolex Datejust. I also asked where his dark blue Seiko 6139 was now. “It wasn’t lost in the break-in, and I am certain I have it somewhere… My curiosity will lead me to look hard for it.” A few weeks later, Covey reached out to me, “Look what I found! If you hadn’t reminded me, I would not have remembered this is a space-flown watch.” Colonel Covey’s February 1971 Seiko 6139-6002 chronograph, w/original “presidential” stainless-steel Seiko bracelet. (Photo Credit: Colonel Richard Covey) Despite the attention often falling on Omega where space travel is concerned, Covey’s story again illustrates the permeating influence of Seiko among military, intelligence professionals, and even astronauts. With an incredible career as a pilot as well as serving as a NASA astronaut and even making his mark on the world of espionage, Colonel Covey embodies the “Use Your Tools” ethos while reminding us that not every been-there-done-that watch has to cost an arm and a leg. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: "Let's Roll" - A Hero's Rolex Frozen In Time - September 11, 2001 About The Author: Nick Ferrell is a vintage watch dealer and founder of Los Angeles-based DC Vintage Watches and the Sycamore watch line. He is a former U.S. diplomat and intelligence community member, and previously served on the National Security Council. When not obsessing over watches, he is an avid reader of, well, everything. DCVW’s Instagram account is @DCVintageWatches.
Read MoreBribes & Operational Gifts - The Role Of Timepieces In Clandestine Operations
Using Watches To Make Friends, Exert Influence, & Recruit Spies The job of a CIA Case Officer (C/O), or Operations Officer, is to recruit spies...
Read MoreUsing Watches To Make Friends, Exert Influence, & Recruit Spies The job of a CIA Case Officer (C/O), or Operations Officer, is to recruit spies and steal secrets. The core competency of a C/O is building relationships with individuals (targets) and ultimately recruiting them to provide Foreign Intelligence on their host government/organization in return for financial remuneration. The trade is not for the faint-hearted, one prized quality of a C/O is the ability to manipulate an individual to further the National Security interests of the United States. We have discussed the operational role of timepieces in espionage, but they can also play a role in the agent recruitment cycle—the transition of an individual from a target to a recruited asset (aka spy). Espionage is a human business and watches are transferable stores of value that have personal meaning—these traits make them effective tools of intelligence tradecraft. Recruitment Process (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In Hollywood, CIA’s recruitment often happens in one dramatic meeting and generally involves a large stack of cash and/or blackmail. In reality, the agent recruitment cycle is more attuned to dating, lasting months and often years. The most successful examples are not transactional, they are real mutually beneficial relationships built on trust. At CIA, the recruitment process is framed with the acronym: SADRAT Spot - Identify a target who may have access to Foreign Intelligence (FI) of strategic or tactical interest to the US Government. He—they are generally men—may be a North Korean intelligence officer, an Iranian nuclear scientist, or a fixer for a non-state terror network. Assess for Access & Suitability - Learn as much about the individual as possible through all means available. Does he have motivations or vulnerabilities that would make him susceptible to a CIA approach? Does he have children who want to go to college in the United States? An ailing mother who needs medical care? Or maybe he's just disenchanted with his employer, has a gambling addiction, or some other vulnerability that can be exploited. Develop - Make contact with the target. It may be a chance encounter at a diplomatic function, an unsuspecting “bump” at the gym, or a “cold call” asking the individual to meet for a credible but contrived reason. Build a real and lasting relationship with the target to further inform your assessment. Gradually and methodically transition the relationship from casual to real and slowly introduce clandestine tradecraft. Recruit - Formally ask the individual to enter a relationship with CIA. Most of the time, this is an anti-climactic moment as the asset believed he started working for CIA in the developmental phase. Agent Handle - Clandestinely “handle” the agent to produce regular FI. At this point, it is no longer a personal relationship, but a formal relationship between the asset and the US Government. The agent should be responsive to tasking and fill intelligence gaps in return for a salary. The asset may be transitioned to a new handling officer during a “turnover.” Terminate - In the movies this involves a bullet to the head or piano wire around the neck. While this may be true for some services (ahem Russia’s FSB), at CIA we want our “terminations” to be firm and final but cordial. We want the asset to think fondly of the relationship, be treated fairly, and leave the door open for potential recontact in the future. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Watches As Operational Gifts The recruitment cycle is slow and methodical, and the core step is the development of a Subject, which can last months or years. There are specific milestones a “developmental” must meet before moving to the next stage. At first, the acceptance of an expensive meal may be an indicator but over time, these financial benefits increase. A timepiece, whether luxury or affordable, is an ideal gift. It’s immediately recognizable, and it’s something that the agent can wear as a constant reminder of the friendship with the Case Officer and thus the greater relationship with the US Government. Further, the soon-to-be agent’s acceptance of an expensive gift from an American official is a strong indication that the individual is willing to move in the direction of a clandestine relationship. Most governments, including the US, have regulations that gifts should be reported and forfeited if accepted (or purchased from the government at a fair market value). If the developmental accepts the gift and does not report it, he has demonstrated that he is willing to break a rule for the personal benefit of himself and the relationship. It’s testing the waters for a future cash payment. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Of course, when he or she accepts the watch, the Case Officer must work with the target to develop an appropriate cover story regarding the watch’s origin. A brand new Rolex Daytona on the wrist of a Russian Third Secretary would be difficult to explain, but a Seiko 5 costing a couple of hundred bucks could easily be explained away. Real World Examples As a CIA Case Officer, I provided several watches to assets and developmentals during my career and they were effective tools to further the relationship. While the specifics of these cases remain classified, there are several examples available in the public domain and evidence that CIA isn’t the only service leveraging this technique. Saudi Intelligence, Hublot, & Twitter Ahmad Abouammo leaving Alameda County Santa Rita Jail in 2019 after his arrest. In 2022, Abouammo was sentenced to 42 months in federal prison for acting as a foreign agent. (Photo Credit: NBC News) In December 2014, Twitter employee Ahmad Abouammo met with an official of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia in London and was given a Hublot Big Bang Unico King watch valued at $42,000, per Department of Justice (DOJ). Abouammo was a Media Partnerships Manager for the Middle East region and after the meeting, Abouammo provided information to “identify and locate Twitter users of interest to the Saudi Royal Family.” Mohammad Bin Salman with Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Montauk Highway. While the DOJ indictment described the watch as a "bribe," in reality, it was an operational gift provided by the Saudi Official (presumably an intelligence officer) to further the clandestine relationship. According to the DOJ, Twitter has a policy that employees report gifts such as expensive timepieces, which Abouammo did not. His acceptance of the gift was an indication that he was willing to move in the direction of a clandestine relationship, which he ultimately did. He would continue to meet with Saudi officials and provide sensitive information. In 2015 he established a bank account in Lebanon in which he received at least $200,000 in remuneration. At that point, he was recruited. Hublot Big Bang Unico King, described by Abouammo to the FBI as “plasticky” and “junky” To convert that timepiece to money, Abouammo flew back to the US with the Hublot and reportedly tried to sell this watch on Craigslist for $20,000, creating an electronic trail of the gift, one piece of evidence that ultimately led to his conviction. Abouammo would later tell the FBI the Hublot was "plasticky" and "junky." To learn more about this process read our piece on Watches as Tools of Money Laundering and Illicit Finance. Watches As Asset Payments FBI Agent Turned Russian Spy Robert Hanssen FBI Special Agent Robert Hanssen was recruited by Soviet intelligence services and ran on and off for over 20 years until he was arrested in February 2001 servicing a dead drop in Virginia. He was directly responsible for the deaths of several US assets and was described by the DOJ as "the most damaging spy in FBI history.” According to the DOJ, Hanssen received at least two Rolex watches from his Russian handlers as forms of payment. In total, Hanssen received more than $1.4 million in cash, bank funds, and diamonds. Above is Robert Hanssen's “Rolex” and handcuffs at the International Spy Museum in Washington D.C. Interestingly, the watch is fake, which some may say is fitting for a turncoat like Hanssen. According to those who knew him, Hanssen was a watch collector and the FBI seized two other Rolexes when he was arrested. The Spy Museum also has at least one real TAG Heuer belonging to Hanssen not on display. Was the fake watch provided by Russian Intelligence? We can only speculate. CIA Case Officer Harold James Nicholson, A Rolex, & Russian SVR CIA Case Officer Jim Nicholson was arrested in November 1996 for spying for the Russian Foreign Intelligence Service (SVR) and was dubbed the "Rolex-wearing spy nicknamed Batman." He was infamously photographed wearing a t-shirt that said “KGB is for me,” the irony of which is not lost. According to a Washington Post article, Nicholson was then the highest-ranking CIA officer arrested under espionage charges and provided classified information including the “personal data on many if not all of the young CIA officers whom he helped train from 1994 to 1996.” At the time, CIA Case Officers were not known for their fashion and Nicholson reportedly developed expensive tastes including tailored suits and watches. During one overseas trip, he returned with a new “silver” Rolex watch. While unconfirmed that this was a direct payment from the Russian SVR, there are indications that if not given then he purchased this or another watch with funds provided by his handling officer. Rolex also played a role in his tradecraft and was reportedly his visual recognition signal when meeting his Russian handlers. He was instructed to "wear his Rolex on his right wrist and carry a magazine and shopping bag." When he was arrested by the FBI at Dulles, FBI "Agents bent Jim over the trunk of the car, spreading his legs and frisking him. They stripped him of his wallet, Rolex, and shoulder bag." - The Spy’s Son. Liaison In addition to the use of timepieces in unilateral clandestine operations, watches make effective tools as gifts to create and solidify ties between intelligence services. We previously documented an example of a European intelligence service presenting a CIA Paramilitary Officer with a timepiece to commemorate operational success, but this tradition extends back to the earliest days of CIA. The Dalai Lama is a known watch enthusiast (Photo Credit: Patrick Leahy) In 1943, Ilia Tolstoy and Brooke Dolan, both members of CIA’s predecessor, the Office of Strategic Services (OSS), presented the Dalai Lama with a Patek Philippe reference 658 on behalf of US President Franklin Delano Roosevelt. Reportedly, the purpose of the gift was to win the Dalai Lama’s support for a potential road through Tibet into China to assist the Chinese in fighting the Japanese. The watch clearly had meaning for the Dalai Lama and is something he still carries today. While it is tempting to separate the gifts to and from “liaison,” a colloquial term to capture third-country intelligence services that work jointly with CIA, in the wilderness of mirrors of espionage, you are always assessing your partners for recruitment, and vice versa. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: CIA Officer’s Love Affair with the Arabic Seiko *This article has been reviewed by the CIA's Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.
Read MoreBezels & Blades - Tools With A Purpose
Timepieces & Watches Have Deep Meaning In The NatSec Community Ask any self-respecting watch nerd what passions pair with timepieces and you will inevitably hear...
Read MoreTimepieces & Watches Have Deep Meaning In The NatSec Community Ask any self-respecting watch nerd what passions pair with timepieces and you will inevitably hear about Porsche, Leica cameras, and Negroni-flavored toothpaste. Like any community, watch enthusiasts have coalesced around several big personalities (tastemakers) who set the aspirational standards of success: a vintage Paul Newman Rolex Daytona poking out of a cashmere Loro Piana sweater while driving an air-cooled Porsche 911 to the country club with a chilled Negroni in the cup holder. Some say it’s pretentious. For our community, watches are tools, functional items we integrate into our daily lives. Meant to last a lifetime and be passed down to the next generation, their “value” isn’t monetary, it's derived from our shared experiences with these inanimate objects. The interest is the human element. There are a lot of parallels between our relationship with timepieces and knives. Today we’ll explore. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Bezels & Blades I have written about my relationship with knives from an EDC standpoint while at CIA (READ HERE), and it’s true that the essentials for every Case Officer generally include a watch, pen, knife, and flashlight. Every CIA Case Officer's EDC should include a pokey thing. For generations, soldiers and intelligence officers have deployed around the globe to carry out vital national security operations. While the tradecraft, technology, and locations evolve over time, two things present with every practitioner both then and now are a simple wristwatch and a knife. Yarborough, Ka-Bar, and Fairbairn-Sykes are as iconic in our community as Submariner, Tuna, and Seamaster. When we return from these conflicts our blades are talismans, physical embodiments of the people, hardship and accomplishments we encountered. Their value is more than the sum of their parts. Even a simple and relatively cheap Spyderco can be an heirloom. UDT Issued Tudor Submariner and SOG Knife (Photo Credit: UDT/SEAL Museum) Today everything is perishable: phones, computers, cars, and even spouses are replaced every few years. Most of these commodities are plastic and digital, and there are few functional tools capable of being used for decades and passed down to the next generation. No one needs a mechanical watch, premium knife, or titanium pen, but we use them because of what they represent and the stories they tell. Knifemakers & Watchmakers Just as we do with watches, we appreciate blades for their utility, but also their design and craftsmanship. Like a good watchmaker, knifemakers are hyper-focused on details. They obsess over design, materials, and aesthetics to create a premium functional tool. These are purpose-built tools, not collectibles or fashion accessories. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Knives In The Global War On Terror One positive consequence of the conflicts in Iraq and Afghanistan is veteran-driven entrepreneurship. Many of these companies focus on utilitarian items with deep meaning to their community: coffee, watches, and particularly knives. Former Navy SEAL Andrew Arrabito founded Half Face Blades, Marine turned knifemaker Connor Toor founded Toor Knives, and a plethora of other former SpecOps personnel have directed their energy to the craft. Legendary knifemakers like Ernest Emerson and Daniel Winkler worked closely with elite units to develop tools for our community. The result of each of these efforts is a tool with both utility and meaning that transcends the physical object. Connor Toor, Marine turned knifemaker and founder of Toor Corporation. (Photo Credit: Toor Corporation) Similar to our approach to timepieces, when it comes to knives, we are brand agnostic and support a wide range of knifemakers, particularly those that focus on made-in-America and the community. The “knife community” is just as tribal as the “watch community” with online forums dissecting every detail and material to support “their brand.” The Best Knives (& Watches) Are Gifts Like watche