Materials, History, Fit, & Which Strap Is Right For You
One of the most common ways to customize your watch is with a new strap that is, in either material or design, more appropriate for austere conditions. Over the past couple of years, we have grown our strap collection to include more refined options made from domestically sourced leather and more attainable choices designed to excel in the most extreme scenarios.
We are often asked what the best strap is for a given use case, and in this Dispatch, we’ll provide an overview of our strap collection, including some pros and cons, historical and design background, and recommendations based on some of the questions we are most commonly asked. As always, everything we make is developed for the quiet professional, someone who appreciates the history of Intelligence and Special Operations and honors those who came before us.
W.O.E. Fabric Straps
Closely associated with military watches, pull-through fabric watch straps trace their origins to the mid-century when they were utilized by American and British armed forces, with the most popular format dating back to 1973 and a British Military design known as the G10. Commonly issued to the British Ministry of Defense, the G10 also cemented the formula for the majority of nylon watch straps to follow. In starting our collection of fabric watch straps, we partnered with veteran-owned and UK-based Z.A. Straps to create the most premium fabric straps possible, which are also manufactured in Great Britain. Then, to provide a more attainable alternative that also conforms to the obsessive quality standards of our community, we designed the Five Eye nylon strap that we believe is the best on the market for the price.
Five Eye Nylon Watch Strap - $35-38
Named after the intelligence-sharing alliance of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, the United Kingdom, and the United States, the Five Eye (FVEY) Nylon Watch Strap is our modern take on the iconic British Military G10 design from 1973. This collection is more attainable compared to our Z.A. collaborations while still providing a premium wearing experience and unrivaled durability for a watch of this style. The Five Eye is built from a custom matte woven material with a reinforced stitched tip and is complete with our custom stainless steel hardware. We didn’t reinvent the wheel, but did take the original design to the next level with modern materials, manufacturing standards, and colors tailored to the unique needs of our community.
To suit a wider variety of watches, we offer solid colors, striped variants, and Five Eye straps with black-coated PVD hardware, all in 20 and 22mm sizes that will fit wrists from 6.25 to 9 IN (15.9 to 22.9 CM). Of note, like all “affordable” nylon straps, these are produced in Asia.
Cons: With almost four hundred five-star reviews, the Five Eye doesn’t have a lot of cons, but like any nylon strap, the look isn’t elegant or refined and wouldn’t be a great pairing for dressier watches.
Glomar Explorer - Hook And Loop Watch Strap - $47-49
Modeled after traditional hook-and-loop dive watch straps, the Glomar Explorer is a premium single-pass adjustable adventure strap for those who use their watches as tools. We set out to create a premium “hook and loop” watch strap, something that many consider an oxymoron. After many iterations over a six-month period and extensive testing, we finally came up with the design of the Glomar Explorer. We developed an ultra-thin custom matte weave nylon construction, a custom 316L stainless steel engraved buckle, and a strap keeper to ensure the watch remains secure on your wrist. The Glomar Explorer is available in two lengths, Short (for wrists between 5.5 to 6.5 IN/14 to 16.5 CM) and Standard (for wrists between 6.5 to 8.5 IN/16.5 to 21.5 CM), and in a variety of colors, including striped and PVD variants.
The strap’s name is derived from USNS Hughes Glomar Explorer, a deep-sea drillship platform that was used by the CIA to recover a Soviet submarine, K-129, in the Pacific Ocean in 1974. To be clear, this is not your grandpa’s Walmart hook-and-loop strap.
Cons: With a casual and utilitarian look, a hook and loop strap simply isn’t going to be for everyone. Sizing will also be an issue for some as the wearing experience will depend on the lug length of the watch in question, wrist size, and how tightly the strap is worn.
Single Pass W.O.E. - Z.A. Straps 2.0 - $110
A staple among our collaborations with Z.A. Straps, the 2.0 offers a unique dark olive drab color paired with contrasting tan stitching along the sides. A discreet woven label showcasing the W.O.E. Spearhead is affixed between the strap keepers, meaning it isn’t in view while the strap is being worn. Subtle. After our first Z.A. collaboration, the 2.0 also introduced round holes and a new buckle with a 3mm tongue for a secure, customizable fit.
Like all of Z.A.'s straps, the 2.0 is manufactured in the United Kingdom, using locally sourced materials, and exemplifies a level of attention to detail not seen elsewhere in the arena of single-pass straps made from woven textiles. In contrast to the 30-centimeter-long 4.0 that came later, the 2.0 is 32 centimeters long, meaning the strap is an excellent option for anyone with a larger wrist. Available in both 20 and 22mm widths and with either stainless steel or PVD black hardware, the 2.0 has become one of our favorite strap projects to date.
Cons: It’s a good thing if you’re a large-wristed individual, but the 2.0 is one of our larger straps, meaning those with smaller wrists may be confronted with more strap “tail” than they are prepared to handle.
Single Pass W.O.E. - Z.A. Strap 4.0 - $95
It’s crazy to think we’re on the fourth iteration of our collaboration with Z.A. Straps, one of the world’s premier makers of nylon straps and a supplier of other webbing items to the British Ministry of Defense (MOD). Back in 2022, we started with the 1.0, with each subsequent variant incorporating color changes and small upgrades inspired by the community. Our Single Pass Z.A. 4.0 is the culmination of everything we’ve learned working with Z.A. Straps and direct feedback from end users.
Completely constructed in Great Britain, the 4.0 is 11.8 IN (30 CM) long, 1.2mm thick, and complete with a uniquely adhered patch with the W.O.E. Spearhead logo. Secured by way of an over-engineered stainless steel buckle that is also available with a PVD finish, the 4.0 is available in both 20 and 22-mm widths and will fit the vast majority of adult wrists. If you’re looking for the most premium, capable, and durable nylon strap on the market, this is it, full stop.
Cons: Every aspect of our Z.A. Straps is ultra-premium, produced entirely in the UK, and designed without compromise. The price reflects our no-holds-barred approach to a fabric watch strap for the most extreme conditions.
The WOE - Z.A. Commando Strap - $95
Designed in collaboration with the elite Commando Hubert, the French Navy’s equivalent to the US Navy SEALs, the Z.A. x W.O.E. Commando Strap is manufactured in the United Kingdom using UK-made reproduction elasticated webbing, a stainless steel slider, and a unique quick-release buckle sourced directly from France as directed by the Commanding Officer of the unit. For a closer look at the history of the Commando Hubert, the unit's custom Tudor Pelagos FXD, and the origin story behind the Commando Strap, click HERE. The strap’s registered design system allows for easy adjustment and secure fastening, crucial for maintaining performance in the unpredictable environments encountered by military divers.
No detail was overlooked in creating the most capable strap we’ve ever designed for diving or other arduous activities. This strap has been extensively tested by and used for real-world operations by the Commando Hubert alongside the unit’s Tudor Pelagos FXD watches.
Cons: While comfortable and capable, the Commando is not for the faint of heart, with the French-made Rapco buckle being larger and more cumbersome than many other strap fastening systems.
USA Five Eye - Third Option Foundation - $40
While it’s otherwise the same as our standard Five Eye Straps, our USA Third Option Foundation Fundraiser offers the most eye-catching visual format in our entire collection with a subtle play on the red, white, and blue color scheme. Benefiting CIA paramilitary officers and their families, $20 (50%) of every USA Five Eye sale goes directly to Third Option Foundation. Just as at home sipping PBR in your local dive bar as it is sailing the Cape on your dad’s catamaran, the USA Stripe Five Eye is the undisputed strap of summer. Available in both 20 and 22mm, the USA Five Eye can also be purchased with PVD hardware, a look that works a lot better than we thought it would.
To date, we have raised over $37,000 for Third Option Foundation.
Cons: Celebrating freedom and donating to charity aren’t for everyone. This strap is a limited edition. Once it’s gone, it’s gone.
W.O.E Leather Straps
While there is a lot of virtue signaling and overstated marketing language associated with goods that are “Made in America”, supporting small businesses in the United States is in line with our core beliefs as a community. This is especially true when it comes to leather goods. There is no shortage of reasonably high-quality leather straps imported from Asia, but we believe the finest leather straps come from right here in the USA or, in some cases, Europe.
With that in mind, our collection of leather straps is entirely produced by hand in small batches from the finest quality materials in the United States or Europe, with each strap demonstrating subtle differences and the ability to patina over time for a custom look and feel. Like all leather straps, these are not your best options for use in or around water, but they do provide a durable and handsome pairing for field watches, vintage divers on desk duty, or any other refined watch in your collection.
The Selous - Premium Suede Strap - $115
Designed to look the part with blue jeans or a suit, the new Selous Premium Suede Strap is handmade in France from high-quality suede produced in small batches from goat hides. Our most premium two-piece leather strap, the suede strap complements vintage tool watches or field watches and is perfect for when you want to dress up your watch. The strap is available in three colors: Mil Green, Slate Grey, and Desert Brown. The strap is named after Frederick Courteney Selous, a British explorer, soldier, and conservationist, famous for his adventures in southern Africa during the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
While most of our collection of straps was developed for an active lifestyle, there are certain instances where a more refined, under-the-radar look is preferred. Designed for wrists from 6 to 7.5 IN (15.25 to 19 CM), the W.O.E. Suede Strap is available in two sizes, 20 and 22mm, both of which taper 2mm to the custom-engraved stainless steel buckles.
Cons: The dressiest strap in the W.O.E. lineup, the Selous is best suited for your vintage watches or other more refined options. We don’t make the rules, but this wouldn’t be our first choice for hardcore military watches, and definitely isn’t the move for diving or swimming.
Jedburgh Leather Watch Strap - $99
Named after the Jedburgh teams of the Office of Strategic Services (OSS), “The Jedburgh” was W.O.E.’s first leather strap, handmade in the USA with American-made English bridle leather. Available to fit 20 and 22mm lugs, the Jedburgh is complete with a subtle W.O.E. Spearhead stamp at the tip, white hand stitching throughout, and a buckle available in either polished stainless steel or black-coated PVD. The Jedburgh is designed to break in for a comfortable custom fit that is best for wrists between 5.75 to 7.5 IN (14.6 to 19.1 CM). For a refined look, the Jedburgh also tapers 4 millimeters from the lugs to the buckle, meaning the buckle measures 16mm on the 20mm strap and 18mm for the 22mm variant.
Cons: Tapering from 20 to 16mm and shorter than some of our straps, the Jedburgh is not the best choice for larger wrists or heavier watches. While we’ve seen some of you guys push the envelope, the Jedburgh is also not the best option for extreme use i.e. jumping out of airplanes.
Horween Leather and Canvas Strap - $185
Produced in the United States in extremely limited quantities, our Leather and Canvas Strap pairs Horween leather tanned in Chicago with repurposed camouflage canvas from surplus military uniforms. These robust straps were designed by W.O.E. in collaboration with Greg Stevens Design, one of the best in the custom leather strap business, and manufactured by hand in Utah. Available in 20 and 22mm widths, the Leather and Canvas strap is thicker than the Jedburgh and does not taper, making this strap an excellent choice for heavier watches while being designed to fit wrist sizes between 6.25 to 7.75 IN (15.9 to 19.7 CM). Given our use of repurposed military uniforms, this strap also offers a wide range of variation in terms of the actual color and condition of the canvas material. Complete with a signed stainless steel buckle, the Leather and Canvas Strap is a more rugged leather option ideally suited for larger watches and larger wrists.
Cons: Manufactured without taper and with a less subtle look compared to many of our straps, our Leather and Canvas Strap is unapologetically extreme and therefore not for everyone.
Safari Shell Cordovan Single-Pass Strap - $148
Shell Cordovan is the crown jewel of equine leathers, made from an inner layer of horsehide and named for Cordoba, Spain, where the material was historically produced. For the Safari strap, we once again looked to Horween Leather Company in Chicago, a historic tannery known for producing some of the finest Shell Cordovan in the world. Each strap is then handcrafted in the United States in small batches by skilled artisans while being available in two colors, Black and Oxblood, and two sizes, 20 and 22mm.
The Safari Shell Cordovan Single-Pass Strap is intended for refined field watches and vintage timepieces. In addition to being highly durable and resistant to stretch, Shell Cordovan also offers a completely smooth and glossy outer texture. The Safari Shell Cordovan Single-Pass leverages a pair of color-matched floating Shell Cordovan keepers for an elevated appearance and a custom fit.
Cons: Like virtually all leather straps, the Safari is not intended for use in and around the water. It’s also important to remove the spring bars when installing this strap to avoid scratching the Shell Cordovan’s unique glossy outer surface.
Leather Single Pass - $92
The Leather Single Pass is intended to serve as a bridge between our leather strap collection and the legendary nylon pull-through straps long favored by military members and divers. Manufactured in the United States from a single layer of premium cowhide measuring 1.4mm thick, the Leather Single Pass also provides a “pull up” effect, meaning the leather lightens when stretched or creased, creating a custom finish unique to your wearing experience. In comparison to many nylon pull-through straps, the tail on our Leather Single Pass is shorter, and the hardware is closer together, designed for wrists up to 7.5 IN (19.1 CM). With hand stitching and more rugged leather material, the Leather Single Pass is our most casual leather strap, pairing well with utilitarian tool watches.
Cons: Despite being modeled after nylon straps designed for diving, this leather strap is not intended for in-water use. Wearing leather straps on dive watches is a controversial topic, anyway.
Final Thoughts:
While we believe there is a strap in our collection that will work for virtually any watch or scenario, like choosing a new watch, strap selection is highly individual and personal. There is no one-size-fits-all solution, and like with any tool, we encourage you to experiment and find out what works best for you. Subsequent iterations of our straps will always be informed by your feedback. Be sure to let us know what you think.
View our entire strap collection HERE.
4 comments
The USA Five Eyes – Third Option Foundation strap looks amazing. It’s a remarkably polished and mature design.
I have been buying straps for 30 years and WoE straps are all I wear now. I love the attention to detail and meaning with every strap but the Glomar Explorer is by far my favorite.
A nice trans-atlantic cooperation…
I probably own fifty NATO-style straps. The Five Eye is the very best of them.