Ultimate Watch Buying Guide - Watches of Espionage

The One-Stop Shop For “Hey W.O.E., Which Timepiece Is Right For Me?” 

Every day, we field questions from the community about which watch to buy. It’s easy enough to answer: “Pick the watch you like the best that you can also afford most easily.” It’s sound advice, but in many cases, there’s simply more to it. The watch world has not only grown by leaps and bounds in recent years but also fundamentally changed. Legacy luxury brands from Rolex to Omega are still there, as are value leaders like Seiko and Citizen, but now, there is a brave new world of “microbrands” to explore as well. So, where do you fit in? 

For the aspiring watch dork simply trying to make an informed buying decision they can feel good about, we set out to create a comprehensive resource with everything you need to select the right watch the first time around. Keep in mind that everything you see here is tailored for the W.O.E. community and those who subscribe to the Use Your Tools ethos. If you clicked through for a list of 36mm dress watches to suit your Old Money mood board, this ain’t it. If you’re looking for useful advice and some of our picks for great tool watches at different price points and from a wide range of brands, you’re right where you belong. 

Advice For Buying A Watch

(Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.)

Starting with the 10,000-foot overview, Advice For Buying A Watch is our general guide that answers some of the most common questions we receive across our social channels. If the last new watch you remember was that Fossil you got from your parents for eighth-grade graduation, this is where you start: a step-by-step rundown for newbies presented in an easily digestible format. If you’ve ever wondered about what kinds of brands to look into first, buying watches as investments, or the types of watches to consider, we have the answers. 

What Should I Buy For My First Watch?

OK, you’ve done your research, noted our advice for buying a watch, and you’re ready to pull the proverbial trigger. In What Should I Buy For My First Watch, we share some of our top picks in the most popular tool watch categories while also addressing price points from $50 to $10,000, meaning everything from the legendary Casio Duro to attainable Seiko models to Tudor and even Rolex and Omega. It might seem crazy to buy a luxury watch right out of the gate, but it happens more often than you might imagine. If you’ve ever considered buying a vintage watch as your first serious timepiece, we also share some of our thoughts on that process.

The Best Military Watches For Land, Sea, & Air

Assuming you’re a dedicated student of the Use Your Tools ethos, it would be fair to say that military watches are another great place to look when buying a watch. For The Best Military Watches For Land, Sea, & Air, we compiled a comprehensive list of true military watches as well as watches well-suited to military or other hard use in the most common operational environments. Sure, a solid Digital Tool Watch (D.T.W.) like a G-Shock can do pretty much anything any of these watches can do, but a growing subset of the military and the Intelligence Community value the combination of utility, heritage, and mechanical intrigue presented by analog timepieces, so we stick to analog options. 

Best Watches Under $1,000 - Ask The Experts 

(Photo Credit: Brock Stevens)

If you’re looking for even more options from people who know as much as anyone about the Use Your Tools lifestyle, Best Watches Under $1,000 - Ask The Experts is your guide to some great choices under $1,000, with all of the picks coming from members of the W.O.E. community. Our pool of experts is diverse, including former Navy SEALs, watch industry pros, W.O.E. himself, and a US Navy Diver. If you’re newer to watches, it makes a ton of sense to toe the waters with a less expensive watch, and today there are tons of great options under $1k to consider from brands like Marathon, Sangin, Seiko, Tornek-Rayville, and more. 

Best Watches Under $5,000

(Photo Credit: Jason Heaton)

Looking to the community once again, Best Watches Under $5,000 is packed with more expensive picks from Jason Heaton, former Navy SEAL Rob Huberty, former SAS operator Chris Craighead, fire captain Asha Wagner, and more. If you’re newer to watches, ponying up for a watch costing $5,000 might seem crazy, but every one of the watches recommended in this article is backed by someone deeply familiar with using watches for their intended purposes. The higher price point also brings in names like Tudor, a brand we’ve often called the modern tool watch leader, thanks to models like the Pelagos FXD. 

Knowledge Is (Watch-Buying) Power 

While it’s not always a core aspect of buying a new watch, the more you understand about watches in general, the better off you’re going to be when it’s time to make a purchase. Here are a couple of helpful guides to increase your baseline horological knowledge, especially as it relates to tool watches.

The Dive Watch - Everything You Need To Know

You will notice that many of the watches we cover are dive watches, and this is not an accident. We are fond of any watch built and used for a specific purpose, but the influence and utility of the dive watch is difficult to overstate, having been used by countless military members, SpecOps, Intelligence Officers, and regular civilians. In The Dive Watch - Everything You Need To Know, our dive expert Ben provides a primer on the basics of what constitutes a dive watch, how water resistance works, the best straps and bracelets for diving, and how watches have been used both historically and today by military and commercial divers. If your journey into watchmaking has you considering a watch meant for undersea use, this is a must-read. 

Get The Most Out Of Your Watches This Summer

Use Your Tools is our ethos year-round, but the warmer months are when most watches encounter the types of risks that could see them irreversibly damaged. In Get The Most Out Of Your Watches This Summer, we share our recommendations and best practices for keeping your watch in working order for the beach, swimming, hiking, irresponsible firework usage, outdoor sports, and—for a select few—diving. Because it doesn’t matter whether it’s a Rolex Sea-Dweller or a Casio Duro if the crown is unscrewed as you scream “watch this” and drunkenly cannonball into your local swimming hole.

An Overview Of The Watches Of Espionage Strap Collection

Along with a passion for watches, many nerds also develop an interest in straps, which are the easiest and least expensive way to change up the look and feel of your favorite watches. In An Overview Of The Watches Of Espionage Strap Collection, we provide our general thoughts on the most popular strap types while also discussing the W.O.E. strap collection in great detail. Whether you’re looking for the ideal hook-and-loop strap to pair with your tool dive watch or want a refined French-made suede strap for your vintage Rolex GMT-Master 1675, anyone who loves watches should know their straps. 

Final Thoughts - Buy What You Want 

Buying a watch is a deeply personal experience. We are dedicated to helping you make sense of the watch landscape, but all we can do is provide our advice, personal experiences, and the recommendations of others who know what it means to use a tool watch. At the end of the day, this is on you. If you’ve absorbed everything here and still want to pick up an Invicta on Amazon Prime Day, do your thing. Remember, we don’t make the rules, and our community is for anyone who understands how to Use Your Tools.