Inside Dubai Watch Week & Dubai Airshow

A former CIA Case Officer turned watch influencer visits Dubai Watch Week & Dubai Airshow – Watches of Espionage 

Flying into Dubai as a former (i.e., washed-up) intelligence officer is surreal. The United Arab Emirates has played a large role in my professional life as I transited in and out of warzones and conducted discreet meetings in various cafes and bars, while more benignly serving as a place to escape the harsh realities of austere posts throughout Africa as a CIA Case Officer. 

But this visit was different. When I learned that the city planned to host two events consisting of a large concentration of luxury watch brands, military forces, arms dealers, and collectors, I couldn’t resist. As is often the case in the world of intelligence, the line between business and pleasure is often blurred, and my attendance at both the Dubai Watch Week and the Dubai Airshow was a little bit of both.

Overview Dubai

Dubai is a contradiction. A booming metropolis in a lifeless and arid desert, which didn’t exist in its current form just decades ago. From Michelin-starred restaurants to vast malls and 6-star hotels, the overwhelming display of wealth and largesse is intoxicating. Emiratis maintain a conservative Arab culture, but Western practices (including alcohol consumption) are tolerated. Visitors from around the globe flock to Dubai to spend, make, and in many cases, store their wealth.   

But there is a dark side. The United Arab Emirates is a semi-safe haven for ill-gotten gains, organized crime, drug money, and state funds from third-world countries siphoned off for personal benefit. As an expat friend living in Dubai explained to me: “Anyone is welcome here, just bring your money and not your problems.” For the same reasons, Dubai is arguably one of the leading cities for both watches and espionage.

I went on a yacht, which was cool. I met a guy wearing an Arabic dial Cartier Santos, which was cooler.

Dubai has seen major security incidents ranging from the Mossad’s 2010 assassination of Hamas operative Mahmoud al-Mabhouh, a Pink Panthers robbery of the Wafi Mall in Dubai in 2007, to high-profile arrests of members of the Kinahan Organized Crime Group. It is arguably one of the safest cities in the world, until it’s not.

What is Dubai Watch Week?

Walking into Dubai Watch Week was a remarkable experience. At the base of the Burj Khalifa, the world's tallest building, consisting of 163 floors, a new complex was constructed to host some of the world's leading brands, including Rolex and Audemars Piguet. No expenses were spared as both the brands and the Seddiqi family spent millions of dollars creating an unrivaled experience. The displays, including a multiroom building for AP and an open-air Rolex pavilion, were a tangible demonstration of the importance of the Middle East market. Throughout the week, the brands hosted lavish parties and even customized pièces uniques and limited editions for some of the region’s wealthiest and most influential individuals.  

Dubai Watch Week is hosted by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, which grew from a small 1950s Dubai watch importer into a multi-generational luxury powerhouse with 50+ boutiques, representing over 90 top Swiss and independent brands, and responsible for shaping the Gulf’s modern watch culture. While the week is more geared towards luxury, W.O.E.-aligned brands were present, including Breitling, Doxa, Tudor, Bremont, and TAG Heuer, among others. 

Geneva’s Watches and Wonders dominates the global stage; however, several attendees remarked on how Dubai was more enjoyable and informal, and the CEOs and watch makers of the top brands were accessible, often manning the booth. As a demonstration of how seriously the biggest names in the business take it, CEOs from Switzerland flew to Dubai, including rare and candid public remarks from Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour.

It was a jam-packed week of checking out watches, networking, and partying on yachts and at high-end restaurants/clubs. I had the luxury of remaining anonymous, breaking cover when convenient, and was able to meet some great collectors and brand representatives.  

W.O.E. talking watches with F-16 pilots.

Dubai Airshow

In stark contrast (though they have more in common than many would admit), the Dubai Airshow, launched in 1986, has become a major meeting point for governments, defense contractors, and aerospace firms looking to showcase their latest hardware. The convention has a Star Wars bar vibe, with an amalgamation of Chinese drone companies, Russian advanced fighter demonstrations, and American pilots all grouped together. The irony is, many of the platforms and weapons on display will likely be used against individuals attending the conference. It was just the right type of sketchy, which is why I wore my Arabic Breitling. 

There was no shortage of notable watches among the attendees, all of which are by default members of the W.O.E. community. Many of the pilots deferred to digital tool watches, but there were more than a few Breitlings (shocker), Omegas, Rolexes, and Seikos. But the real sauce was on the wrsts of contractors and VIPs, showcasing APs, Patek, and many Rolex models. I ran into some American F-16 pilots who were wearing matching Arabic Seikos, which was a pretty cool experience.

W.O.E. with two F-16 pilots with matching Arabic Seikos.  (Photo Credit: Cole Pennington)

While the show includes commercial aviation, the real draw is the military: live fighter-jet demonstrations, UAV and drone systems, and the quiet negotiation of defense deals behind closed doors. The show featured advanced air-defense platforms, next-generation strike drones, and prototype aircraft built to attract Gulf and international buyers. The airshow functions as a snapshot of shifting global defense priorities, with nations using the event to signal capabilities, court partners, and test the market for future weapons sales.

At the core of the show was a multi-hour air demonstration that included the UAE display team, the Lockheed Martin F-35, and its counterpart, the Russian Sukhoi Su-57. Despite the enjoyable celebration-like atmosphere, the stark reality of defense contracting was demonstrated when an Indian Tejas fighter jet crashed, killing the pilot on board.

The Sukhoi Su-57, a fifth-generation multirole fighter aircraft and the first operational stealth aircraft for the Russian armed forces, was developed by Sukhoi. (Photo Credit: Cole Pennington)

Watch Industry - A Self-Licking Ice Cream Cone

Despite having one of the largest and most influential platforms, Watches of Espionage is still a “watch industry” outsider, and this is by design. The reality is that most content creators/influencers and “journalists” are beholden to brands, and their very survival and relevance depend on access, press events, and first looks. 
 
I have been critical of the watch industry, and particularly the brands' co-opting (coercing?) of media (Read HERE), and Dubai Watch Week confirmed that hypothesis. The Seddiqi family covered the costs of most of the “media” present, including flights and hotels, a nontrivial amount. The result is, and will be, positive coverage. By default, the media is an extension of the marketing teams of the brands. I don’t hate the player or the game, but we should acknowledge that truth.

W.O.E. the watch influencer, fake it till you make it.

But that doesn’t mean those in attendance are not passionate about watches. There are great people in the industry, and this event offered unique access to them, from CEO’s, media personalities, watchmakers, and marketing suits. While I maintained my anonymity throughout, I was able to be open and spend time with people I respect, including John Mayer, Andrew Morgan, Adrian Barker, Britt Pearce, and George Bamford.  These individuals have built brands in the watch industry and, to a person, all of them are driven by passion.   

At the end of the day, the brands, the Seddiqi family, and many of the people in attendance were there to make money, and that isn’t necessarily a bad thing if you like watches. With strong headwinds, you should want the industry to succeed (at making money) so they can continue to make and sell watches. 

Tariffs & Industry Headwinds

Breitling CEO George Kern presents on the Swiss watch industry and the House of Brands, a new initiative to launch a portfolio of complementary watch brands, including Universal Genève and Gallet.

Despite the overall euphoria and champagne-fueled parties, the elephant in the room was the headwinds facing the industry. The global adoption of smart watches, the decline in Chinese demand, and international trade uncertainty are real threats, and people are scared. The week prior, the Trump administration reduced tariffs on Swiss goods from 39% to 15%, a nontrivial number that is bound to further decrease sales and/or profit margin in a declining industry. 

During a talk with Breitling CEO Georges Kern, he spoke about the challenges facing the watch industry, but also believed the industry would rebound, a necessary belief as he launches two new brands under the Breitling umbrella. While no one would go on record, I was quietly told that many brands maintained excess inventory at all levels of the supply chain, and some production facilities were operating on limited schedules (1-3 days per week). While the larger conglomerates, LVMH, Richmont, Rolex, etc, can likely weather the storm, for independents, the future is uncertain.

Come for the Watches, Stay for the People 

W.O.E. is about watches, but really it’s about people. The simple wrist watch is often a vector to the human element; the brand name on the dial is often insignificant. 

As I look back on Dubai Watch Week, it’s not the watches I will remember but the people. Thousands of collectors flocked to the “Sparta of the Middle East” to share a weird and wacky passion. I was fortunate to meet many of them, an eclectic group from around the world with different backgrounds and horological interests. The one thing we had in common was an appreciation, or obsession, with watches.

Pictured above are two of my dear friends, Cole Pennington, a former Hodinkee writer turned Swiss industry suit, and Rob Huberty, a former Navy SEAL and W.O.E. contributor (read HERE) who has fallen deep down the rabbit hole. I didn’t know either of these gentlemen before starting W.O.E., and now we are real friends. At the end of the day, that is what it's all about.

New Releases

In contrast to Watches and Wonders, the Dubai Watch Week is not driven by new releases, but they do happen. 

Tudor “Dune” Ranger - 36 & 39mm

Most notable for the W.O.E. community was an expansion of the Tudor Ranger line, to include a smaller 36mm version and the introduction of a cream-colored “Dune” dial. The 36mm is significant as it is a size and look that hews closer to the originals worn on the British North Greenland Expedition. The watch keeps the Ranger’s bold Arabic numerals and red-tipped seconds hand, but the Dune variant uses lume plots beside the numerals for a cleaner, instrument-like layout. 

There is a lot to like here. Last year, the 75th Ranger Regiment received a unit watch based on the original Ranger, and I am excited to see the first unit watch with the newer dial. The release feels more like a subtle expansion of the Ranger line than a bold redesign, aimed at those who prefer a compact, no-nonsense everyday watch, but overall, I dig it. 

Breitling - Chronomat Automatic GMT 40

While not technically a Dubai Watch Week release, Breitling displayed three “Middle East Edition” Chronomat GMTs with Eastern Arabic Dials. As you likely know, I have an affinity for Arabic dial watches and was very tempted by this one. The black is the one that really spoke to me, but I wouldn’t say no to any of them. Of note, several independent watch brands released Arabic dial watches during the week.  

Doxa - Ceramic Cherry SUB 300β

I spent a considerable amount of time with the folks at Doxa, a brand with long-standing ties to our community. For the event, Doxa produced 11 cherry-red, matte-black ceramic examples of the SUB 300β, released exclusively through Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. Built on the slimmer, urban-ready Beta platform, it blends DOXA’s hardcore dive-watch roots with the flair that matches a city like Dubai. While I don’t think this is the one, I can definitely see a Doxa in my future.

Final Thoughts

An Audemars Piguet watchmaker explains the new chronograph movement during the Dubai Watch Week exhibit.

Stepping back from the noise, spectacle, and champagne, Dubai Watch Week and the Dubai Airshow served as a reminder of why this strange intersection of watches, geopolitics, and human behavior keeps pulling me in. Dubai is a place where wealth and ambition collide with secrecy and influence, where CEOs and collectors mingle with pilots, contractors, and the occasional spook, all orbiting the same gravitational pull of power and prestige. 

For all the excess, the curated media narratives, and the very real headwinds facing the industry, the week also highlighted something simple and enduring: some people still care deeply about watches as tools, symbols, and personal artifacts. Whether on the wrist of an F-16 pilot, a multi-millionaire on a yacht, or a kid discovering mechanical watches for the first time, the passion is real. And in a city built on contradictions, that authenticity, however rare, felt like the most valuable commodity of all.

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