Graduation Watches for the W.O.E. Community

Whether your new grad is fresh out of the Naval Academy or West Point, a traditional university, or high school, it’s never too early to start living the Use Your Tools ethos with a great timepiece 

Hey W.O.E., my son/daughter is graduating next month, and I want to get them a watch to commemorate the achievement. What do you recommend?

For many of us, May means graduation season. Whether it is a son, daughter, sibling, or significant other, a watch is a great way to commemorate this accomplishment. We have said it before, but the best watches often start as gifts.

We subscribe to the core belief that a relationship can be developed with inanimate objects like watches through shared experience. The effect is amplified when a timepiece’s origin story is also meaningful, for example, when a watch is given as a gift. In diplomacy and intelligence operations, watches are often given as gifts to commemorate a working relationship or to mark a career or operational milestone. But what about when you’re just starting out?

For prospective graduates of service academies, military training pipelines, colleges, trade programs, or even high school, we would argue that a watch is among the most meaningful gifts you could give or receive, but it can be tough to know where to start. Intended for parents, friends, or family members with new graduates in their lives, this Dispatch answers this common question with a broad assortment of timepiece options, all of which are tailored to the needs of the W.O.E. Community. 

We have many resources available for watch buying advice, which are summarized in the above-listed video and our Ultimate Watch Buying Guide, but here, we will concentrate on watches for graduates, leaning into relative affordability, versatile aesthetics, meaning, and specifications well-suited to the Use Your Tools ethos. 

“Dress” Watches 

At W.O.E., we rarely cover dress watches. With few exceptions, Use Your Tools often means titanium and steel dive watches. With that being said, if your new grad is entering the workforce and needs to look the part for interviews or wear a dress uniform as a newly minted second lieutenant or ensign, we acknowledge that certain situations require a more elegant approach. Here are a few watches that provide a refined look and enough durability for more rugged situations. 

Citizen Tsuyosa - $350 

A watch that quickly became a favorite among nerds since its 2022 launch, the Tsuyosa pairs more refined elements with a solid automatic caliber and enough water resistance for daily wear. At its price point, it’s tough to get a good mechanical watch at all, and the Tsuyosa displays solid finishing across its integrated case and bracelet design with a mineral exhibition caseback showing off the hacking and hand-winding Miyota caliber on the inside. While the water resistance is more limited than some watches in this section at 50 meters, that simply means this watch wouldn’t be ideal for a new graduate leaning into an amphibious lifestyle. For daily use and its ability to fly in more elegant scenarios, the Tsuyosa is a solid and inexpensive option to consider. 

Seiko Prospex SPB155 - $725

When you’re approaching mechanical watches and looking for a more affordable price point, Seiko should always be at or near the top of your list. We’ve spoken at length about the legendary 6309 “Turtle” and its modern descendant, the SRPE93, but neither would be called refined, which is where the SPB155 “Baby Alpinist” comes in. 

An extension of the Alpinist collection of field watches, the 155 provides a smaller 38mm case, a classic silhouette, a green gradient dial, cathedral hands, great lume, and an automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve, all while being bolstered by a screw-down crown and 200 meters of water resistance, rare for a watch with this look. Able to seamlessly transition from service dress blues to the field, the SPB155 is a great “dress” watch for any new graduate. 

Longines Conquest 38mm - $2,400 

It doesn’t always fall under the purview of W.O.E., but Longines is another brand that excels at pairing refined design elements with enough specifications for peace of mind. Also available in 34 and 41mm, the 38mm Conquest Automatic is our pick for a “dress” watch that would work well with a suit while also offering a screw-down crown and 100 meters of water resistance. Paired with something like a G-Shock for more austere conditions, the Conquest would make an excellent option for a new grad looking to work in more professional settings, whether in a civilian office environment or a military command center. 

It’s less often discussed today, but Longines also has a significant military history, having been one of the providers of the British “Dirty Dozen” W.W.W. watches commissioned at the end of the Second World War. 

Tudor Monarch - $5,875

For some, the Tudor Monarch was a polarizing release, unveiled in celebration of the brand’s 100th anniversary. In fact, we previously said it wasn’t our thing, at least according to our traditional point of view. However, for a new grad with more generous parents, the new Monarch provides a lot to like with a versatile 39mm case size, faceted case and bracelet architecture, a seldom-seen “California dial”, a Master Chronometer caliber, and 100 meters of water resistance. Compared to the aforementioned Citizen, Seiko, and Longines, the Monarch falls behind only in its low-light capabilities, lacking luminescent material of any kind. 

If night moves are not your intended use case, the Monarch is an intriguing pick for a new grad looking to express some individuality and respect for a brand that has been closely associated with the military for more than seven decades. 

Service Academy Watches 

We are often contacted by parents of children attending US military service academies, including the United States Military Academy, United States Naval Academy, United States Air Force Academy, and United States Coast Guard Academy. Graduating and commissioning are remarkable accomplishments, and we can think of no better way to commemorate this than with a watch.

While they are perhaps a step down in cool factor from customized “unit watches” produced on a smaller scale for military and government organizations, several of the US service academies also have a strong history with co-branded timepieces that are typically available for students or graduates through official gift shops. 

To be clear, some of the gift shop watches you’ll find out there are lame, and if you have no association with the service academy in question, it would be weird to wear one. But if you do, here are a few of our favorites. 

West Point  - Citizen Eco-Drive Army Black Knights - $575

For students, prospective graduates, or family members of West Point, the US Army’s service academy, this Citizen Eco-Drive dive-style watch is an interesting option that leans into Citizen’s significant links to the military while offering Eco-Drive charging and 100 meters of water resistance. Based on the standard AW1760-81E, the Army Black Knights version is 43mm in diameter and has the Black Knights logo, small and subtle at nine o’clock. Sure, West Point grads may one day covet a custom unit watch from the likes of Omega or Tudor, but a straightforward Citizen like this is a great way to bring a new 2LT into the timepiece fold. 

Coast Guard Academy - Shinola Runwell 41mm USCGA - $995

Many service academy gift shops have watches falling on the more affordable end of the spectrum, and that means you won’t always be dealing with the heights of Swiss luxury. However, when you’re talking about a watch given as a gift, the emotional value isn’t stemming from the name on the dial, and Shinola is a brand that offers at least some US production in its collection of mostly quartz timepieces that has been worn by Presidents Barack Obama and Bill Clinton. This Coast Guard Academy branded version of the Runwell, Shinola’s marquee watch, is straightforward, versatile, and capable of 50 meters of water resistance. 

As much as we like to make fun of W.O.E. Team Member Ben for his USCG service, we are big Coast Guard fans, and this would be a great watch for any prospective USCGA graduate. 

US Naval Academy - Breitling Endurance Pro 44 USNA - $3,900

Another brand with close ties to the W.O.E. Community is Breitling, which today produces several co-branded watches for sports teams, sporting events like Ironman, and universities, all in addition to its established unit watch program. In recent years, Breitling has increasingly looked to its composite-cased Endurance Pro Chronograph, which has a quartz movement, as a vehicle for co-branding efforts, including this US Naval Academy version. 

It ain’t cheap at almost $4,000, but when you consider that the Navitimer, Breitling’s iconic pilot’s watch, will set you back over ten grand, the Endurance Pro is actually a great entry point for the sketchiest brand in the business. It’s not the same version (he commissioned through ROTC), but Reid Wiseman, Mission Commander of Artemis II, also owns an Endurance Pro, a pretty solid endorsement if you ask us. 

US Air Force Academy - Bremont U-2 GMT 

It’s unclear whether it is still available following the brand’s reshuffling after a significant 2023 investment by American hedge fund manager Bill Ackman and the ensuing exit of the founders, Nick and Giles English, but this U-2 GMT for USAFA alums is pretty sweet, nonetheless. Ordered direct from the brand, like a unit watch (and without a listed price) after an individual’s USAFA alumni status has been confirmed, the Air Force Academy’s U-2 features a patterned "AF" dial, the USAFA crest at six o'clock, a prop and wings at nine o'clock, and "LONG BLUE LINE" text at twelve o'clock, along with a few personalization options. 

The brand may be in a tough spot at the moment, following a slew of new releases that didn’t land with fans, but it’s important to remember that Bremont’s military division has been responsible for over 500 custom watches for military and government organizations. 

Use Your Tools Picks 

Assuming the graduate in your life is not the dress watch type and intends to put their thoughtfully-selected timepiece through its paces under more austere conditions, here are a few watches we think are ideally suited to embodying the Use Your Tools ethos every damn day. To cover more bases, we’ll present a wide array of price points. 

Seiko 5 Sports SRPL89 - $400 

A core tenet at W.O.E. is the understanding that anyone seeking an attainable mechanical tool watch should probably look to Seiko first. Part of the now-broad Seiko 5 Sports collection, the SRPL89 revives the core design of the legendary SKX007 and 009 with an orange dial and gold-trimmed hands. With 100 meters of water resistance and a non-screw-down crown, these “5KX” models may not be quite as stout as the SKX that inspired their design, but they are solid enough for hard use, and we recently spotted this exact reference on a member of US Army Special Forces. If your new graduate requires a tough timepiece, Seiko is where I would start, and if orange isn’t their thing, this collection includes just about every dial color you could ask for. 

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 250 - $725 

Now and then, a watch company simply nails it, and that’s exactly what happened when Hamilton added the Khaki Field Mechanical 250 to its already vast collection of field watches. Inspired by the FAPD 5101 navigator’s watch issued to USAF aircrews starting in 1970, the new 250 is 36mm in diameter, equipped with a seldom-seen acrylic box-section crystal, and capable of 100 meters of water resistance. The manual-winding (as in not automatic) caliber might not be for everyone, but with 80 hours of power reserve, it also shouldn’t be a big issue. For anyone seeking an old-school military feel that works as well in uniform as it does in casual civilian settings, this is one of the more exciting affordable releases in a long time. 

It hardly needs to be said, but Hamilton also has a wealth of real heritage in military use, having produced field watches for the US government from the Second World War into the late 1980s. 

Marathon 41mm OSAR-D - $2,200

One of the last brands supplying the US Military with analog timepieces is Marathon, which produces a broad collection of serious tool watches. Our pick for a new graduate looking to use their watch in tougher circumstances is the newer OSAR-D, a revived version of the original SAR series that was designed for Royal Canadian Search and Rescue Technicians and released in 2001. Now available with a striking white “Arctic” dial, the OSAR-D is a Swiss-made automatic dive watch with 300 meters of water resistance and one of the more stout builds in the price range. If this particular variant doesn’t suit your grad, there are two additional case sizes, other dial colors, and tritium tube-equipped variants within the collection. 

Marathon’s utilitarian look isn’t for everyone, but when we spot a mechanical dive watch on a servicemember today, it’s surprising how often that watch is from this brand. 

Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT - $5,475 

One of only a few brands with two watches on this list is Tudor, and this is for good reason. In the luxury tier, we consider Tudor the modern tool watch leader, leaning into its significant associations with the military and intelligence, while also providing an element of luxury. Where the standard FXD, released in 2021, was designed in collaboration with the French Commando Hubert Combat Swimmers, the FXD version is marketed with French Navy pilots as an aviation-specific version of the proven fixed lug design. 

For new graduates with international implications in their career path, whether civilian or military, the FXD GMT is a 42mm titanium timepiece that is tough enough for hard use while also providing some horological intrigue with a manufacture caliber enabling true GMT functionality. 

Final Thoughts 

What your new graduate’s path entails, platoon leader, junior analyst, intern, or an off-the-grid gap year, a watch can be more than just a congratulatory gift. The right timepiece is a physical reminder of expectations and standards, a talisman recalling the family, friends, and mentors who chose to mark the moment with a functional tool that can become so much more. Years down the line, long after the first duty station, first deployment, first job offer, or first epic failure, that same watch will still be there, battered, bruised, and imbued with every story along the way. 

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