New Tool Watches Worth Your Attention: Tudor, Gallet, Doxa, Sinn

Interesting Releases Tailor-Made for the Use Your Tools Ethos 

By Benjamin Lowry

At W.O.E., we are sometimes critical of traditional watch media, often the product of outlets that are, by design, dependent on connections to and marketing dollars from the brands to exist. We don’t hate the player or the game, but we also understand that we have to take some of that coverage with a grain of salt, especially when it comes to new releases, the discussion of which is almost always influenced by the almighty dollar. 

Beyond my excellent, beautifully written monthly SITREP series, W.O.E. typically shies away from covering “novelties”, but now and then, a few great new tool watches pile up, and we feel obligated to share them with the community. Over the past few weeks, in particular, we’ve seen new watches from Tudor, Doxa, and Sinn, all brands close to our hearts, as well as the rebirth of Gallet, a brand that, on paper, seems tailor-made for our community. In this Dispatch, I will briefly discuss these new releases and share some of my personal thoughts, feelings, and opinions, both positive and less positive. 

As always, nothing you see here is sponsored. It’s possible that sharing these opinions might mean I don’t get invited to a future Gallet-sponsored cocktail mixer at the Soho House, but I will bravely carry on… 

The Tudor Northflag Returns

Unveiled in 2015, the Tudor North Flag was perhaps ahead of its time, only seemingly finding a passionate fanbase after it was discontinued in 2021. Loosely based on the extremely rare Ranger II of 1973 with its integrated bracelet, the original North Flag was an interesting Tudor model for a couple of reasons. For one, its design language was decidedly modern, nothing like the vintage-inspired Black Bay of the day or even the Pelagos, which, despite being titanium, took a lot of inspiration from the Snowflake Submariners of decades gone by. And two, the North Flag was Tudor’s first watch with a manufacture movement, offering a polarizing power reserve indicator on the front and an exhibition caseback showing off the COSC-certified MT5621. Even with these flourishes, the 2015 North Flag didn’t catch on the way Tudor might have hoped, and the watch was quietly discontinued after a six-year run. 

Fast forward to today, and almost all of Tudor’s watches are now powered by in-house calibers; the Black Bay and Pelagos collections are truly broad, and the Tudor Ranger was also recently overhauled. The time was apparently right for a new Northflag (now one word) that, beyond adding a GMT and killing the power reserve indicator, stays relatively close to its predecessor in terms of design. Measuring 40mm in diameter and 12.7mm thick, the new Northflag is ever so slightly thinner than the old, and the real show is once again the movement, which is now a COSC- and METAS-certified MT5652-U, good for zero to plus five seconds per day. 

Did the watch world need a polar explorer’s Tudor with a GMT function? Probably not, but the fact that Tudor went this route is part of why we appreciate the brand. While for many in the W.O.E. community Tudor is synonymous with dive watches, the new Northflag is another purpose-built tool watch that doesn’t feel like an ostentatious luxury item to flex on Instagram. Would I like it even more in grade five titanium and/or without the sunray dial finish? Maybe so, but we’re always excited to see Tudor come out with another niche tool watch, just another part of why we have argued Tudor is the modern tool watch leader. 

Gallet Reincarnated as a More Affordable Option within Breitling’s House of Brands

The Flying Officer collection leans into one of Gallet’s historic model families.

In 2023, Breitling did something interesting in acquiring the Universal Geneve name, promising to bring the once-proud brand back to its former glory. When a new Universal Geneve collection was finally launched in April 2026, it was clear the brand would be taking a luxurious approach, with its least expensive models ringing up around $16,000. Following its acquisition of UG, Breitling added to what it now calls its “House of Brands” (read W.O.E.'s initial take HERE) mini-conglomerate by purchasing the Gallet name, another defunct watchmaker once best known for tool chronographs. The press materials at the time promised that Gallet would become the conglomerate’s brand that would fall on the more “affordable” side of affairs. 

The new Mutichron Pilot, priced at $4,600 on a very Breitling-like bracelet, was a particular favorite of ours.

Earlier this month, Gallet launched its new collection to massive social media fanfare and plenty of (presumably sponsored) media attention. A few of the models, including the Flying Officer Automatic, fulfill Breitling’s promise of keeping things relatively affordable, coming in at around $3,000. But Gallet is a name arguably most closely associated with chronographs, and those were the watches most of us were keen to see. Under the revived Flying Officer and Multichron names, we received several intriguing chronographs, and I am pleased to report the prices are, while not cheap, in line with a less expensive alternative to Breitling’s proven chronographs while still being powered by Breitling calibers. At close to $5,000 in many configurations, the new Gallet chronographs undercut something like the $10k Breitling Premier B09 by around half. Compared to much of the industry that is trending up in price, it’s a pretty good deal, all things considered. 

Whether Gallet will develop into Breitling’s answer to Tudor, Rolex’s in-house, more attainable alternative, we will have to see, but I like the direction thus far. 

Doxa Adds a Titanium Sub 300 to its Standard Collection 

The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 in the orange “Professional” color scheme.

Doxa, a brand best known for its literary Dirk Pitt/Clive Cussler and real-world Jacques Cousteau connections, has made titanium watches in the past, from the long-forgotten Marei-era Sub 800Ti to the limited Sub 600T of 2021 and, most recently, the Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler from earlier this year. However, since around 2016, when the 800 Ti was officially discontinued, there hasn’t been a titanium model in Doxa’s regular catalog. We’ve often argued that titanium is a near-perfect material for a tool dive watch, and I was excited to see the SUB 300 Ti5 added to the regular collection. 

The blue “Caribbean” version of the new Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 is pretty sweet, but we really would have liked to have had a titanium bracelet option for the asking price.

Like the Clive Cussler variant that served as the appetizer for the new collection, the specs are familiar from the standard Doxa Sub 300, measuring 42.5mm in diameter, 45mm in length, and 13.4mm thick, and powered by a COSC-certified SW200 caliber that should guarantee timekeeping within minus four to plus six seconds per day. The colors vary a bit from Doxa’s standard set, with orange (Professional), black (Sharkhunter), and blue (Caribbean) all being familiar, but the titanium model adds a “Red Coral” variant as well as what Doxa calls “Whitepearl”. 

Doxa has strong ties to our community (read HERE), and while I wish Doxa had a titanium bracelet option and hadn’t gone for the full “Sub 300 Ti5” text on the dial, these are going to check a lot of boxes for a lot of people for just over $3,000. 

The New Sinn EZM 19 is Weird but also Pretty Cool 

Is the EZM 19 pretty out there? Yes, but it’s also kind of compelling…

Sinn is a German brand that doesn’t get the shine it deserves despite decades of producing capable tool watches that are currently issued to and used by select special operations units, including the KSM, or Kommando Spezialkräfte der Marine, Germany’s Navy SEAL equivalent. The EZM, or Einsatzzeitmesser (German for “mission timer”), collection is home to the brand’s purpose-built tool watches for divers, tactical law enforcement units, pilots, and other specific use cases. Packed with tech and a Teutonic level of attention to detail, some of Sinn’s watches are a bit extreme, but the brand’s strict adherence to the Use Your Tools ethos is the kind of thing that makes us feel warm and fuzzy. 

If you value managing four-hour shifts with your mechanical timepiece, this may be the only watch ever made specifically for your needs.

Intriguingly, the new EZM 19 is designed for Germany’s special services and first responders' command staff, whatever that means, and the watch has a few elements that could best be called “quirky”. The bezel is split between a 35-minute count-up track and a four-hour countdown track that coordinates with typical first responder four-hour shifts and their preceding 35-minute briefs, Sinn says. Like we said, purpose-built. The other element that is going to jump out at you is the use of oversized numeric indices at four and eight, with another chunky geometric index at noon, all three of which are lumed in a different shade compared to the rest of the dial. This again refers to a first responder’s four-hour shift and promises to be a polarizing element. 

Do I covet one of these to recall my days standing four-hour watches over a radio and a desktop in a spartan corner office within Coast Guard Station Francisco’s barren walls? I personally do not, but I will always applaud a brand for going deep into the weeds of a specific use case or career field, especially when no one, and I mean no one, was asking for it. 

Final Thoughts 

Ultimately, this is exactly the kind of new-release coverage we want to do at W.O.E. Not because every watch here is a home run, or because we need to convince you that you absolutely need one of these, or even another watch in general, but because these brands are still willing to make interesting tools for specific people and specific purposes. A returning Northflag, the resurrection of Gallet, a titanium Doxa Sub, and an oddly specific Sinn EZM might not set the entire watch industry on fire, but they each represent something we value: watches designed to be used rather than simply admired. 

And in an industry increasingly obsessed with hype, exclusivity, and Instagram wrist shots, that alone is worth paying attention to. As always, buy what you like, use the hell out of it, and take everything you read, including this article, with a grain of salt.

As always, we would welcome your thoughts in the comments.

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