Military & Intelligence Watch Spotting

The Most Fascinating In-The-Wild Watch Photos From Watches Of Espionage

W.O.E. is about watches, and we love watches, but it's really about people, heritage, and culture. We view the world through the lens of timepieces and use them as a vector to the human element for history and current events. The watch world is saturated with reviews, hype, and product placement, and our greatest strength is not following the herd but paving our own path. W.O.E. has carved out a specific niche at the intersection of watches and the military, intelligence, and national security. 

Watch Spotting The W.O.E. Way

Watch spotting is the practice of noticing and identifying wristwatches, often on athletes, celebrities, or in film, while discussing their brand, design details, and, more often than not, cost.

An Omega Seamaster unit watch spotted on the wrist of a Danish Frogman during training operations. (Photo Credit: Frømandskorpset/Facebook)

For W.O.E., watch spotting isn’t about flexing obscure knowledge or playing “gotcha” with celebrities. It’s about observation, analysis, and curiosity. We see it as a way of reading the subtle signals a timepiece sends while also providing historical context, whether it’s a Tudor Sub on the wrist of a frogman in a grainy Apollo recovery photo, an Omega Seamaster on the wrist of a modern Danish Frogman, or a Perpetual Calendar Patek Philippe on the wrist of Vladimir Putin. Spotting the watch is only the beginning; the real interest is in what that watch says about the person wearing it. 

With that, we would like to present some of the most interesting in-the-wild W.O.E. shots we have seen over the years. Some of these will be familiar to long-time readers, and others will be new. Remember, in our community, it’s never just a watch. 

MACV-SOG Seiko - Frank Greco 

In the W.O.E. space, MACV-SOG Seikos hold a special place.

You might be cool, but you aren’t as cool as MACV-SOG recon man Frank Greco wearing an issued SOG Seiko on a black tropical strap on the range in Vietnam in 1970.

In one of our first articles, we spoke with SOG legend John Stryker Meyer, AKA “Tilt”, about the Seiko models utilized by Special Forces in Vietnam. MACV-SOG recon men required a robust and non-attributable timepiece to accomplish their mission. They turned to Seiko, a brand we have often referred to as the “Toyota of Watches.”

A pair of MACV-SOG Seiko models, each worn on a nylon pull-through strap and paired with a Waltham W.C.C. wrist compass. (Photo Credit: DC Vintage Watches)

Three generally agreed-upon Seiko references were issued to and carried by SOG personnel during the conflict: the 6619-8060 from circa 1967, the 6119-8100 from circa 1968, and the 7005-8030 from circa 1970. We have also documented a lesser-known fourth Seiko, the 6106-8100.

This picture was originally published in Greco’s book, Running Recon: A Photo Journey with SOG Special Ops Along the Ho Chi Minh Trail. It’s cool.

Rolex GMT-Master - Delta Force Founder Colonel Charlie Beckwith

Colonel Charlie Beckwith, the founder and first commanding officer of Delta Force, the US Army's elite tier one/special mission unit.

A legend in US Special Operations, Colonel Charlie Beckwith founded Delta Force, the US Army’s Tier One/Special Mission Unit (SMU) in 1977, inspired by his time in an exchange program serving with 22 Special Air Service (SAS) in the United Kingdom. Having served in combat leadership in Laos, Vietnam, and Malaysia, Beckwith earned a Distinguished Service Cross, Distinguished Flying Cross, two Silver Stars, and four Bronze Stars, all in addition to a Purple Heart for surviving a .50 caliber round through the abdomen. In short, he was a bad MFer who was also known for wearing a Rolex GMT-Master. 

Given the time frame, we assess the watch is likely a reference 1675 with what appears to be an all-black bezel. Far from its modern luxury trappings, the GMT-Master of the 1960s was a practical tool worn by a practical man who revolutionized US Special Operations. The rubber strap on the GMT is a clear indication that, for Beckwith, the Rolex wasn’t a statement piece but a tool. The GMT-Master was a common option for Special Forces operators of the day, including Billy Waugh. 

The Rolex GMT-Master is a legendary reference among Army Special Forces. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.)

The book Beckwith is reading is MI9: Escape and Evasion 1939-1945, a classic espionage book about the arm of the British secret service responsible for arranging the daring escapes of Allied prisoners during World War II. 

Beckwith passed away in 1994. The final whereabouts of his Rolex GMT are unknown. If anyone knows, we’d love to write about it. 

US Secret Service Omega Seamaster - Trump Assassination Attempt

Arguably, one of our most controversial instances of watch spotting was an Omega Seamaster unit watch on the wrist of a US Secret Service agent after the assassination attempt on President Donald Trump’s life in July 2024.

When shots rang out at the Trump rally in Pennsylvania, Secret Service agents rushed the stage. In the chaos, one image stood out: an agent’s wrist flashing the new unit-issued Omega Seamaster Diver 300M. Delivered to the Secret Service in late 2023, this non-date, matte-finished Seamaster differentiates from the standard model with beige lume, a subdued look, and a caseback engraved with the USSS Star, motto, and each agent’s commissioning number. It’s a purpose-built tool, issued not for flash but for function and culture.

A USSS Seamaster belonging to an officer of the Secret Service Uniformed Division. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.)

At W.O.E., we acknowledge the seriousness of the event, but we view current events through the lens of watches. Watches have a way of surfacing in history’s defining moments. In this case, the Seamaster tells the story of the actions of a Secret Service agent who was one of the first on the stage that day, a quiet professional who has (impressively) chosen to remain anonymous in an era of podcasts and book deals. 

Present at a defining moment in recent history, spotting this Seamaster was yet another reminder that it’s never just a watch.

Patek Philippe - President & DCI George H. W. Bush 

Better known as the 41st President of the United States and as Dubya’s dad, George H.W. Bush was a decorated naval aviator who flew torpedo bombers during World War II before later serving as Director of Central Intelligence (DCI) in 1976.

While his son was known for wearing a more straightforward Timex during his time as POTUS, DCI Bush took a more luxurious approach with a pair of Patek Philippes, including a Pink Gold Automatic Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 3940) as well as a 1968 Calatrava (Ref. 3445), both of which were likely worn during his tenure as DCI in the 1970s. 

A Patek Philippe Calatrava owned by H.W. Bush hammered for $62,500 at a Christie’s auction in 2019. (Photo Credit: Christie’s)

Brands like Rolex and Omega were once more common options for military and intelligence practitioners before ascending into the heights of luxury, whereas Patek Philippe has maintained its aura of sophistication and expense throughout its centuries-long history. In more recent decades, it’s become common for wealthy public servants to wear more attainable watches, with notable examples including W. Bush's or Clinton’s Timex models or Obama’s Jorg Gray chronograph. 

For H.W. to wear not one but two Patek models is a showcase of how the powers of perception and influence have changed for public figures over the past few decades. At one time, this kind of flex—a Patek on the president—didn’t rub anyone the wrong way, something we can’t say today. 

Breitling Chrono Avenger - Blood Diamond - Leonardo DiCaprio

In 2006’s Blood Diamond, Danny Archer, played by the dreamy Leo DiCaprio, is a former Rhodesian/South African mercenary turned diamond smuggler who embarks on a hair-raising adventure to find a large diamond amid the Sierra Leone Civil War. In the film, DiCaprio’s character wears a Breitling Chrono Avenger with a black dial and a solid titanium 44mm case on a brown calf leather strap. A Rhodesian mercenary turned diamond smuggler is the very definition of sketchy, so this watch is on point. 

But why are we discussing a watch worn by a fictional character in a Dispatch otherwise dominated by historical figures from the military and intelligence communities? As we’ve established in our Hollywood Watches of Espionage series (read HERE), life imitates art and vice versa, and many real-life intelligence professionals have been influenced in their watch-collecting habits by silver screen spies. The inclusion of a Breitling in Blood Diamond is impactful because it is accurate. For an entire generation of practitioners operating on the fringes of global conflict, Breitling was part of the culture. 

For the military, intelligence professionals, and mercenaries, Breitling was a way of life in the 90s and early 2000s. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.)

Breitling was also early in its adoption of military unit watches, having produced countless squadron watches for aviation units as well as versions of its Superocean for Delta Force, the US Army’s Special Mission Unit, and an Emergency for Erik Prince’s Blackwater. Now and then, Hollywood gets it (mostly) right, and the inclusion of a big chunky Breitling in Blood Diamond hits us right in the feels every single time. 

Lemania TG 195 - Swedish Major Eric Bonde 

(Colorized Photo Credit: @julius.colorization)

Some people are actually “built different”, as the kids like to say. In this incredible image, Swedish Major Eric Bonde rips a cigarette after taking a couple of rounds during an ambush during the Congo Crisis in 1961. On his wrist is what appears to be Lemania TG 195 on a leather Bund strap, a watch historically issued to Swedish forces. 

An intriguing footnote in military watch history, the TG 195 provided a rare complication, with a flyback seconds hand activated by the pusher at two o’clock. When activated, the seconds hand jumped to the twelve o’clock position, and the crown also popped out, a feature intended to make it easier and quicker to synchronize and set the watch. 

A Swedish military-issued TG 195. (Photo Credit: S. Song Watches)

When the photo was taken, Major Bonde was reportedly escorting prisoners on a train when it was ambushed. Legend has it that after the fight, a soldier said, “Sir! You are hit! Your shirt is red!” to which he responded, “Don’t be impertinent. I’m a Count. My blood is blue.” These types of war stories have to be taken with a grain of salt, but if Major (and Count) Bonde really did drop a knee to burn one with a few fresh bullet holes, then he is among the baddest of the bad, and his watch is pretty cool as well. 

Christopher Ward C60 Trident 600 GMT - General Scott Miller 

One of the subjects of a recent W.O.E. TV episode discussing the trend of “double-wristing” among the military and special operations is four-star General Scott Miller, a former Delta Force officer who also fought in the Battle of Mogadishu in 1993 before commanding JSOC and later, all US and NATO forces in Afghanistan. Miller famously wore a Christopher Ward C60 Trident 600 GMT with a red bezel, a real watch nerd choice for one of the few military leaders to rise from Tier One special operations to the most senior levels of the military. 

Christopher Ward is an interesting brand in that it was founded more or less as a microbrand before growing into a true independent, managing its own production facility in Switzerland and producing a wide array of largely tool watches, many of them vintage-inspired. The C60 Trident 600 GMT was unveiled in 2010 and utilizes a Swiss caliber from Sellita while also coming in at a more approachable price compared to something like the Rolex GMT-Master that is also closely associated with US SOF. 

Christopher Ward is a leader in the unit watch space, and no doubt this has been influenced by General Miller’s use of the watch. In retirement, Miller has been seen wearing an Omega Seamaster Diver 300 and a Tudor Pelagos 39.  

CWC SBS - Sergeant Paul “Scruff” McGough

(Photo Credit: Toby Harnden) 

Sergeant Paul “Scruff” McGough was a decorated member of the British Special Boat Service (SBS) described as "one of the most respected men to serve with the SBS", seeing combat in Afghanistan and Sierra Leone before dying in an unfortunate hang gliding accident in Cyprus in June 2006. This photograph of Scruff, taken at the battle for Qala-I Jangi Prison on 27 November 2001, is among the very best, not only providing a snapshot of special operations at the time, but also showcasing an important military dive watch in the CWC SBS. 

CWC is the brand that supplied dive watches to the British Ministry of Defence after Rolex, first issuing an automatic Royal Navy Diver in 1980 before making the switch to a quartz model shortly thereafter. In 1987, legend has it that a unit requested a blacked-out version for night operations, and the SBS was born, serving as the special operations dive watch for select units to this day. 

(Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E)

This photo is a rare image of a tier one operator in the heat of battle, wearing a true issued military tool watch. This picture is what led me to fall in love with CWC in general and the SBS specifically, a watch developed for purpose and initially unavailable to civilians. If that ain’t Watches of Espionage, I don’t know what is. For more on this conflict and Scruff’s legendary exploits, check out Toby Harnden’s book, First Casualty: The Untold Story of the CIA Mission to Avenge 9/11. 

Rolex Explorer 1016 - Ian Fleming

While James Bond today is closely associated with Omega, representing what is perhaps the most valuable marketing relationship in watches, 007 was once a dedicated Rolex man. Bond’s relationship with the Crown is no accident, as Bond’s creator, Ian Fleming, was also an ardent Rolex wearer and the owner of an Explorer 1016. With that in mind, in several of Fleming’s Bond books, Rolex is mentioned by name, with 007 described as wearing  “a heavy Rolex Oyster Perpetual on an expanding metal bracelet” with “big luminous numerals.” But we’re not here to talk about Bond. 

Long before he became an author, Fleming was a decorated Royal Navy intelligence officer during WWII, serving as the personal assistant to Rear Admiral John Godfrey, the Director of Naval Intelligence at the time. From his position in Room 39, a legendary Admiralty intelligence hub, Fleming acted as a liaison to partner services, planned covert operations, and managed a network of sources throughout Europe. Bond’s character is heavily influenced by Fleming’s experiences. 

The Explorer 1016. (Photo Credit: Bob’s Watches)

Where Bond is known for wearing the Rolex Submariner, which appears in numerous films, Fleming wore an Explorer, another, sometimes overshadowed icon in Rolex’s dense collection of history-making references. When Bond nerds get upset that 007 wears Omega these days, they typically point to Fleming’s penchant for Rolex. It’s a good argument, and there’s nothing wrong with emulating a real intelligence officer like Ian Fleming. 

Tudor Submariner 7928 - Vietnam Navy SEALS

(Photo Credit: US Navy, DOD)

There are a few photographs portraying the archetypal Vietnam frogman, but this shot of Navy SEALs Harry Humphries and Fran Scollise wearing Tudor Submariners in Vietnam is one of the best. Humphries and Scollise were both members of SEAL Team 2, and Humphries was detailed to MACV-SOG operating as a detached SEAL working for the CIA’s Phoenix program as the PRU Advisor in Can Tho Province. They likely viewed their Tudor Subs, reference 7928, as yet another piece of gear, no different from their tiger stripe uniforms, boots, or weapons. 

Produced from 1959 to around 1968, the 7928 was the watch most prolifically issued to SEALs and UDTs during the Vietnam War. Typically worn alongside a Waltham W.C.C. wrist compass on a simple pull-through nylon strap, the 7928 is as much a part of the culture of Vietnam SEALs as the Stoner 63, both trusted tools that became legends in Naval Special Warfare. 

A UDT-issued Tudor 7928 from W.O.E.’s personal collection. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.)

Modern SEAL tactics and culture also took shape during the conflict in Vietnam, with subsequent generations of frogmen looking up to their Vietnam Era mentors, many of whom continued to wear their Tudor Subs for decades to come. Even as Tudor was usurped in the Teams by Seiko and later digital watches from brands like G-Shock, Tudor’s association with SEALs persists, with modern Tudor having produced several custom unit watches based on the Pelagos FXD for various SEAL Teams as well as the Navy’s Special Mission Unit. 

Final Thoughts

At the end of the day, spotting watches the W.O.E. way isn’t about chasing clout, auction results, or ticking off obscure references; it’s about connecting timepieces to the men and women who wore them and the moments in history they helped to shape. From frogmen in Vietnam to Secret Service agents under fire, from Bond’s creator to real-world spies and soldiers from around the world, these watches serve as artifacts and lasting mementos of culture, courage, and tradecraft. 

That’s why we do what we do: because in the world of Watches of Espionage, a watch is never just a watch; it’s a story worth telling.

If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.

Read Next: The Real Watches Of Navy SEALs