Honoring an age-old tradition of matching watches up with heavy-hitting machinery. At W.O.E., we cover all sorts of subjects relevant to our community, ranging from in-depth profiles of impactful Intelligence Community and military practitioners to breaking down geopolitical conflicts through the lens of watches. Today, however, we figured we’d go a little lighter and engage in an age-old tradition that, while slightly more juvenile than most of our content, continues to be relevant and just plain fun. Just about every watch platform has matched up the Rolex Submariner with the perennial watch-guy favorite–the air cooled Porsche 911. But we’ll leave that to the popular watch style blogs. We’re here to talk about metal with a purpose beyond simply looking cool. We’re going to match up iconic watches with well-known aircraft. Many of you will be intimately familiar with both of these subjects, and finding the intricacies and characteristics that tie a watch to an airplane and vice versa is an exercise in diving deep into the engineering characteristics, legacy, and function of both the plane and the watch.  Tom Cruise wearing Porsche Design Chronograph 1 (Photo Credit: Paramount) Before we apply full nose down inputs and dive in, we’d like to acknowledge that folks will have very serious opinions about these pairings, and that this list is just a starting point. If you disagree, we’d love to hear about it in the comments. We eschewed the traditional “rules” for pairings using things like country of origin or physical appearance to pair watches and cars and instead focused on the core ethos of each piece of equipment and the character and reputation it has developed in both aviation and horology circles. Now let’s roll, pitch, and yaw right into it: The Plane: Lockheed C-130 Hercules The “SUV of the sky” is ubiquitous and tough as nails. It’s been in service since 1956 and the fundamental design of the aircraft hasn’t changed much over more than half a century. It can land and take off from unprepared airstrips, it can operate in hot and high environments, it can be fitted with skis to land on ice, it can use JATO (jet assisted take off), it can act as an aerial refueling platform, it can serve as a command and control platform, it can even be kitted out for long-range search and rescue, and maybe most importantly, the AC-130, the gunship version known as the Angel of Death, can absolutely rain down hell on the enemy. The Watch: Seiko SKX007  You won’t find this steadfast tool watch on the wrist of anyone wearing a suit. It’s not particularly accurate, and it’s not known for superior fit and finishing, either. But it’s where a lot of us started our watch interest, and it’s where it can end, too. You don’t need another watch. This one is tough as hell and just keeps on running. Like the C-130, it’s spawned a bunch of variants.  The Link: The same places you’ll find the SKX007 being worn, you’ll find the C-130 being used. They’re both the standard unit of toughness that all other watches and utility aircraft are measured against. The Plane: Boeing C-32A  This is the plane that the highest officials in the US Government use for executive transport. You’ll typically find the Vice President (Air Force Two) and the Secretary of State aboard. It can also serve as Air Force One when the President’s 747 is considered overkill for a specific destination. It’s a symbol of American might and democracy that you’ll find all over the world. The Watch: Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II Photo Credit: James Rupley The Case Officer’s watch. It can get dirty and take a beating, but has a certain polished cache that’s elevated it to iconic status. It can tell time in three different time zones at once; and the design hasn’t changed much since 1954, when it was first worn by Pan-Am pilots. The model became popular with military pilots and was even famously worn by Chuck Yeager.  The GMT-Master II serves as a stand-in for worldliness The Link: Both of these at first appear polished and proper, but they’re also some of the most capable and bad-ass platforms around. The C-32A has a whole host of classified defense systems. And the guy wearing a GMT-Master probably isn’t a stranger to doing what it takes to get it done. The Plane: Lockheed Martin F-16 For the last 30 years, when someone says “fighter jet”, it’s most likely the F-16 that many people–familiar with military aircraft or not–think of. It’s the most widely operated fighter in the world. In other words, it’s the OG fighter aircraft of the modern era. It’s a multi-role aircraft, and there’s even a project led by the US Air Force, Project Venom, to operate F-16s autonomously. The F-16 has come a long way since its first flight in 1973. The US Air Force had once said that it would be retired in 2025, but then signed on to keep the F-16 flying for another 20 years. It’s not going anywhere just yet. And that’s a great thing. If it ain't broken, don’t fix it.  The Watch: IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Actual military pilots wear all sorts of watches. Everything from Garmins to Bremonts. But there’s such a thing as a prototypical “pilot’s watch” and it’s the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch, specifically, the 43. It’s the watch that some real fighter pilots wear, but that many, many more people who wish to be a fighter pilot wear. It’s become an icon for what it represents, not necessarily for what it actually is. But what it is, is a watch that’s been at the center of the military aviation scene since before World War II.  IWC has a long history with aviation, and continues to produce Unit/Squadron watches for many aviators. The Link:  The link here is obvious–these are both the icons of their type. They’re what first comes to mind when thinking of fighter jets and pilots watches. They’re also sort of the most basic iterations of their forms as well. The Plane: A-10 Warthog  This aircraft’s primary role is CAS (close air support) and it absolutely excels at it thanks to its twin-turbofan, straight wing setup. It frequently gets “down in the dirt” and you’ve almost certainly seen memes or videos of the infamous “BBRRRRRTTTTT” that’s emitted from the 30mm GAU-8 Avenger rotary cannon affixed to the nose of the airplane. It crushes tanks, lights up enemies, and emerged as an absolute icon after Desert Storm. BBBBRRRRTTTT. The Watch: Tudor Ranger The Ranger is mostly considered a field watch, not necessarily a pilot’s watch. Its simple, stripped-down nature is where its beauty lies. Consider it the modern version of what the Rolex 1016 was (or the vintage Tudor Ranger)–a simple-as-hell time only tool watch that was indestructible and somewhat of an everyman’s watch. You have 3, 6, and 9, and nothing much else except fantastic legibility. It just gets the job done and doesn’t cost too much. The Link: The A-10 is cheap as chips to operate and consistently crushes the competition when it comes to fixed-wing CAS. The Ranger embodies the same ethos–value-forward, reliable, and has a “git ‘er done” way about it. They’re both simple. The Plane: Lockheed Martin F-35 The F-35 was delivered ten years late and went 1.7 trillion USD over budget, but it’s the most technologically advanced plane that has ever existed. It’s over the top in every single way, not to mention it costs $41,986 an hour to fly. But trying to find anything that rivals it. You won’t China’s J-20? Nope. Russia’s Su-57? Negative. The aircraft defines air superiority through its host of technical features, many of which are still classified (on the US-operated variants, of course). The Watch: RM 39-01 Richard Mille marketing shot If you want one of these, it’ll set you back about 150K. But you’ll also have the most feature-rich, tech-forward analog pilot’s watch that exists. A titanium case and a skeletonized carbon fiber dial characterize the watch, along with the signature Richard Mille lightweight technical look. Richard Mille is the epitome of technical mastery in watchmaking, and the RM 39-01 is the brand’s foray into pilot’s watches. It’s the opposite of legible and robust, but sometimes the most technically advanced things are just that way. The Link: The amount of engineering that goes into these two things– and the price tag– are both superlative. The Aircraft: UH-60 Black Hawk You’ve seen Black Hawk Down. Hell, we know some of you even fly the Black Hawk, which is operated in a branch-specific variant by the US Army, Air Force, Navy, and Marine Corps. The design dates back to 1974 with Sikorsky, and now the US military operates over 2,000 Black Hawk helicopters. Roughly 30 other countries around the world also operate the UH-60 in some form or another, not to mention civilian operators that use it for firefighting, cargo transport, to search and rescue. It’s a ubiquitous helicopter when it comes to roles in the defense sector. Anyone who flies the Black Hawk knows that when it stops leaking hydraulic fluid, that’s when you have to worry. It can carry between 12 and 20 soldiers into battle and can lift 22,000 lbs. It was first used operationally in combat during the invasion of Grenada in 1983, and it’s been going strong ever since. The Watch: Marathon TSAR Cheap, chunky, and indestructible, the TSAR has been a mainstay in the inventory of issued watches of US forces over the past decade. Many models even feature the “US Government” markings on the dial in addition to the nuclear regulatory commision designation on the caseback. The watch has earned a stellar reputation by those to whom it has been issued to. It’s designed solely for utility, not looks. The tall case is meant to make it easy to operate the bezel with gloves on, and tritium tubes are employed for superior legibility and visibility in the dark. In short, it’s been a longstanding fixture in the military watch scene for good reason–it just works. The Link: The TSAR, like the Black Hawk, isn’t going to win any awards for looking good or being a hero. Neither draw a crowd. But those in the know will always choose these tools over the more sexy options.  (Marathon, Watch Maker for the Modern Military) The Aircraft: Lun-class Ekranoplan What makes this craft different from most on this list is that even though it has “wings”, it’s not an airplane, or airship even. It’s technically still just a standard maritime ship, because it only lifts about 13 feet off the water and flies in “ground effect”, meaning it takes advantage of reduced drag flying close to a fixed surface. In this case, the surface is the surface of the ocean. It’s essentially just a massive flying boat powered by eight turbofans mounted to canards near the bow of the ship. Flying in ground effect meant that unless the surface of the sea was steady, it simply couldn't fly, and that ultimately led to its demise. It’s an incredibly neat idea that’s also very Soviet–and it can certainly be debated whether or not it’s a good-looking craft or not.  The Watch: Hublot Big Bang  This is the model that’s most typically associated with Hublot, the brand that everyone loves to hate–and by most engineering and mechanical accounts, the watch is pretty strong. But most people agree–it has a very specific type of culture attached to it. The Link: Both the Ekranoplan and Hublot are loved by Russians, but that’s not all. They both had their mainstream time to shine decades ago, but still both have a small legion of loyal followers today that still live like it’s the heyday of the Ekranoplan and Hublot. But hey, they like what they like. SHOP NOW:  Five Eye Nylon Watch Strap

The watches of the most powerful men in the world, the Commander in Chief

In Watch and Firearm Collecting, Details Matter I purchased a new Rolex GMT Master II “Batman” directly from an authorized Rolex dealer (“AD”). After photographing the watch in my studio, I was surprised to see a production error that I had never seen before. In the “8” in the “18” on the bezel, the top circle is blue, while the bottom is black.

In this edition of the Dispatch, we answer some common questions we get about W.O.E., timepieces and the Intelligence Community at large. Many of these responses can even serve as stand alone stories– and probably will at some point–but for now, here’s some additional insight on Watches of Espionage. If you have any more questions, please ask in the comments section and we will address next time. See past questions “Ask W.O.E. Anything Part I” What advice do you have for buying watches? There are more resources than ever before on watches, and if you are reading this then you’ve already demonstrated that you’re pretty far down the rabbit hole.  Here are a few tips below for those looking to get into watches.  Also check out our previous Dispatch on “Best watches under $1,000” as a good starting point. Buy what makes you happy; no one else cares what you are wearing and 99.9% of people will not notice the watch you have on your wrist. (This one is cliché but it’s entirely true.) Buy the watch you can afford. You won't be happy if you spend more than you can afford, as “buyer’s remorse” is real and can undermine the sense of satisfaction from wearing the watch. Don't buy for investment. Your watch may appreciate, but buy with the expectation you will wear it until you die (and a loved one will wear it after you die). Values are generally trending downward in the watch world anyway. That’s not what they’re made for, and treating a watch like a financial instrument takes away something from the hobby. When in doubt, stick with a known brand: Seiko, Rolex, Breitling, Omega, Tudor, JLC, IWC, Bremont, Patek, etc.  There are some great micro brands out there (like Tornek-Rayville), but also a lot with smoke and mirrors, especially in the “tactical” space. Rome wasn’t built in a day. Any worthwhile watch company wasn’t either. Buy the seller and build a relationship with that person. If the deal looks too good to be true, it probably is.  A lot of people have had great experiences with Ebay and other online forums, but there is something about building a relationship with the actual person selling the watch that makes it special. Plus, it’s very easy to get burned on Ebay. It’s less easy to get burned by someone you know and trust. Take your time. Do your research. Even if you have the money to buy the watch you want right away, spend time learning about the different variations and history of the reference or brand. This will likely change your outlook and make you appreciate the watch you end up with even more. As a closing remark, don't feel like you need a "luxury watch," a ~$500 watch can be just as meaningful as a $5,000 watch. How do I organize Unit watch? After our “Tudors of Espionage” piece, we received a lot of queries on how to organize a “unit watch” for a specific military, law enforcement or intelligence organization.  We have heard from our industry contacts that companies across the board have received an increase in these requests.  This is cool, because “unit watches” are at the heart of watch culture in the National Security community and closely tied to the idea of “Watches of Espionage.” To review, a unit watch is a timepiece that is customized by the manufacturer for members of a specific unit or organization inside the military.  Customizations can include the unit’s insignia or motto on the dial and/or an engraving on the caseback. Occasionally, markings can be applied to the side of the case as well.   We will continue to go deeper on various unit watch programs (like Bremont Military and Special Project's Division) and guide those looking to organize a custom watch for their organization, but in the meantime, here are some initial steps: Do it: To accomplish anything in the government, you need an internal champion.  Be that champion. Nothing will happen otherwise. Build Internal Support:  For most custom watch programs, you need a minimum of 50 pieces. It needs to make sense for a manufacturer to tool up to produce a custom watch, which incurs a significant cost on their end.  Start building support within the organization and gauge interest from other unit members.  Take the opportunity to educate non-watch members why a watch is a great way to commemorate a moment in time and one's service.  Seek approval from the unit/command leadership if needed. Explore Brands: There are some great brands that provide unit watches. Each one has its pros and cons.  Decide on 3-4 that work for your unit's culture. As a starting point, look at Breitling, IWC, Omega, Tudor, Bremont Watch Company, Elliot Brown, CWC, Seiko, and Sangin Instruments. Contact the brands:  For larger brands (Tudor, IWC, Omega, etc) visit a local boutique/Authorized Dealer and explain what you're looking to accomplish.  You need someone on the inside to help shepherd you through the process, as it can often be opaque.  For smaller brands (Elliot Brown, CWC, Sangin) you should reach out directly through the website.  Some companies like Bremont have formal “Special Projects” programs and make it seamless; others are more based on personal relationships.  Ideally, have a specific idea of what you are looking for, i.e. a specific reference and design/location of the insignia. Be Patient:  These things take time.  Having spoken with some of the individuals who have shepherded Tudor pieces, these projects can take over a year for delivery. Automatic vs Quartz? There is nothing wrong with quartz movements, and anyone who says otherwise is a nerd.  Not a good “watch nerd,” just a nerd.  In general I prefer an automatic timepiece because I appreciate the craftsmanship it takes to produce an automatic movement.  Operationally, there is a strong argument for an automatic movement, as batteries will always die at the wrong time.   That said, some of the greatest military watches are quartz: CWC, Elliot Brown, and Marathon, not to mention the venerable Breitling Aerospace.  A quartz movement is likely more accurate than an automatic movement and some of these pieces are just as fashionable and robust.  There is something satisfying about picking up a watch and knowing that the date and time are set. They both have their place in the watch world.  Again, these are tools and you choose the right tool for the task. Does the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board (PCRB) censor your writing? The CIA does not “censor” my writing when it comes to beliefs, opinions, or watch content.  It does review my writing (including this piece) to ensure that it does not contain classified information.  All current and former CIA officers have a lifelong obligation to protect classified national security information, and one aspect of this lifelong commitment is submitting writing to the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board (PCRB).  This is a good thing, as it protects every party involved.  Overall, I have found the review process relatively smooth.  Like most “formers” who write about the intelligence field, I have a general understanding of what we can and cannot say and there have been no major issues with the PCRB.  There are occasionally times when the PCRB will remove a location, word, or sentence, but overall it has not impacted the core points of any of the stories I’ve written. As a private citizen, I am free to express my own opinions about the government, CIA, or watches, and I have not heard of any cases where a former CIA officer’s opinions or writings were “censored” in the traditional sense.  It appears as though the CIA has made a conscious decision to be forward-leaning by allowing formers to write (relatively) openly about their experiences.  This is also a good thing.  My personal opinion is that the Intelligence Community should protect secrets, but should also be open in educating the public on what we do.  There are a lot of misconceptions about the CIA and we are in a position to dispel those myths and educate people on the reality. By writing semi-openly, we can achieve that.  Do you sleep with your watch on? (We have received this question a lot.) I do not. Does anyone? That's weird.  I actually find myself taking my watch off often when I am at home, when typing on the computer, doing chores etc.  I haven't really put much thought into why this is but I have never slept with a watch on, and I don’t even put it on my bedside table unless traveling.  Generally, I take my watch off in the bathroom or office and have been using a W.O.E. EDC Valet in both. If anyone does sleep with their watch on, I would love to hear their rationale in the comments. Thoughts on tactical micro-brands?  Are you a poser if you did not serve in the military? When you buy a watch–any watch– you are buying into that brand and the community and reputation the brand commands.  This is especially true with micro brands/tactical brands. There are some great micro brands/tactical brands out there and several were highlighted in the “Best Watches Under $1,000” Dispatch.  That said, I do not have much first hand experience with them, so I will reserve judgment.  If you are interested in a tactical brand, I encourage you to really do your research.   In my opinion, Sangin Instruments is one of, if not the, leader in this space.  Started by a Marine Raider, they make great watches but perhaps more importantly, they’ve built a true community around the brand.  Though largely driven by the active duty military and veterans, one does not have to be a veteran to take part and you are by no means a poser if you support this brand. One other that I have also personally owned is RESCO Instruments, which was started by a former SEAL. Similar to Sangin, they have strong support from the active duty military and make a robust toolwatch. Starting a watch company is hard, really hard.  There is a reason the top watch brands have been around for over a century.  Do your research: many of these companies have good intentions, slick websites and lots of tactical dudes wearing them, but actually building a company like Sangin and RESCO is not easy or for the faint hearted. Final thought, any brand that gets you interested in watches is a good thing.  If you like the aesthetic of a watch and the guys building a brand, buy one. Try it out.  It’s all just a part of the larger process of going deeper into the hobby.  Favorite city to visit? Istanbul, Turkey; Beirut, Lebanon; Cape Town, South Africa. If you had to choose only one watch to keep forever, what would it be? From an emotional standpoint, it would likely be the titanium Royal Jordanian Breitling Aerospace, a gift from His Majesty King Abdullah II bin Al-Hussein, but from a purely aesthetic and functional perspective, it would be my Rolex GMT-Master II, an early 2000s black and red “Coke” ref 16710. For years, I have said that the Rolex GMT–any execution of the watch– is the ultimate CIA Case Officer’s watch– a classy and refined tool that signals to others you are a man of culture, yet don’t mind getting your hands dirty. A Case Officer has been described as a “PhD that can win in a bar fight,” and that fictional person would wear a Rolex GMT.  While this is less true today with the astronomical prices of “new” pre-owned models, there is still a lot of truth to it.  When traveling, the quick-change date and GMT functionality are useful for telling the time back home, and a simple wrist check is easier than pulling out a phone. The watch also captures the spirit of the often-romanticized ‘50s Rolex GMT, originally developed in the 1950s for commercial Pan Am pilots. I have an old “Root Beer” ref 16753, but the newer model is more robust and still maintains some of the vintage aspects, including drilled lug holes and the aluminum bezel.  The “Pepsi” of course is a classic, but there is something about the red and black that I have always gravitated towards.  It is just different enough to make it stand out but still retains that timeless appeal of the classic bi-color bezel formula.  How has your interest in watches evolved over time? My personal interest in watches has evolved greatly over the past year as my collection has expanded. My collection and my interest grew together in tandem.  I’m still interested in modern tool watches, but have gone down the vintage military-issued watch rabbit hole.  I recently acquired a South African issued Tudor Milsub ref 7016 and a US Navy UDT/SEAL-issued Tudor 7928.  Both of these watches are “grail” pieces for me, and for the time being I am satisfied and have so much history to learn and uncover when it comes to the pieces I already own.  I will continue to be on the lookout for unique watches with military provenance.  There is something special about owning a piece of history and being able to wear it on your wrist. What are your thoughts on watch modifications? I have never modified a watch before, but this is something I would really like to explore in the future.  The idea of taking a Tudor Black Bay 58 or an Arabic Seiko as a blank canvas and personalizing it is incredibly intriguing.  This is still a controversial practice for much of the traditional watch community.  George Bamford originally made a name for himself by customizing Rolex watches into unconventional designs, much to the chagrin of the Swiss luxury brands. Customized “Commando” Rolex Submariner (Bamford Watch Department) That said, I am not attracted to customizing a timepiece to look like another timepiece, aka a “Homage” customization.  If this makes you excited, then I am happy for you, but it is not for me. Before selling out and going corporate, our friend and spiritual mentor Cole Pennington wrote a piece for Hodinkee defending homage pieces.  I generally agree with everything Cole writes, but when it comes to this topic I respectfully disagree.  Cole points out that there is a “big difference” between homage pieces and counterfeits, but in reality whether produced by a manufacturer or individually customized, the difference is often not that big.  I would rather purchase (and wear) a Seiko that looks like a Seiko, than a Seiko that has been retrofitted to look like a Rolex. What is the future of Watches of Espionage? What new products and will they be in stock? W.O.E is and always will be an enthusiast platform.  The reason we are successful is that we are passionate about watches (and espionage) and that’s our core fundamental driving force–not profiting from the watch community.  Our goal for Watches of Espionage is to become the number one resource for military, intelligence and national security content as it relates to timepieces.  We have just scratched the surface and have a lot more to explore. We have made a lot of progress over the past year, with the launch of the website and initial W.O.E. products.  Our main focus is building a community of like-minded individuals who appreciate history and an interest in timepieces.  Content will continue to be our main focus and our intention is to keep this free and open to everyone.   Much of the watch industry works on a “pay to play” model where brands sponsor content or invite journalists to “exclusive” press trips which inevitably influences any potential watch review. Our goal is to avoid this model and remain an impartial third party in the watch industry. We will support brands and people who are doing good things.  If we enter into a partnership with a brand, it will be on our terms and will not be just a transaction for cash to exploit our relationship with the community. Obviously this takes significant time and money and will only increase as we continue to expand.  After thoughtful consideration, we moved into the product space, and have found this equally fulfilling to create novel and exciting products for our community.  We appreciate those who have supported W.O.E.-- as this support will give us the opportunity for increased quality content.  Over the coming year, we hope to expand the number of articles per week and potentially move into other mediums.  Regarding products, we are working on some new and exciting projects and hope to have some in stock at all points.  We are in the initial steps on a coffee table book that we hope to be available in 2024. This year, we have raised over $23,000 for Third Option Foundation and we have more fundraisers scheduled for this year that will be both meaningful and interesting. As always, thank you for the support.  This would not be possible without you. Read Next: Vietnam MACV-SOG Seikos: Setting The Record Straight *Unless otherwise noted, pictures are of W.O.E.'s personal collection by James Rupley.

One of the most common questions we receive from active duty military, law enforcement and intelligence officers is how to organize a “unit watch.”  We have previously profiled Tudor’s unit watch program and plan to cover all of the major players in this space.    UK-based Bremont Watch Company has made significant headway in capturing the market and providing unique watches to military and intelligence units, including the highest tiers of the US Intelligence, Aviation and Special Operations community. In order to document a first hand perspective, we asked Nic, an Australian military pilot, to write a Dispatch on his experience organizing a custom Bremont for his squadron. As always, this content is not sponsored and the views and perspectives are of the author.  At W.O.E., we are brand agnostic but do support any brand that supports our community. Aviation Unit Watch Case Study: Bremont Military and Special Projects Division The EA-18G Bremont U-2 on the wrist of a Growler pilot (Photo Credit: @outboundcourse)  In the world of horology, Bremont is a relative newcomer, having been founded by brothers Nick and Giles English in 2002. The siblings, inspired by their father’s passion for both aviation and mechanical devices, merged their interests to design, manufacture and release their first pilot's watch in 2007. Bremont arrived on the scene as a fresh contender at a time when established players were coincidently shifting their focus away from the aviation and military markets towards more mainstream celebrity brand ambassadors. In 2009, U-2 spy plane pilots from Beale Air Force Base, California contacted Bremont to see if the brand would be willing to create a bespoke watch for their squadron. Bremont subsequently produced and delivered the watch as its first ever military project in 2010. The following year, they launched a partnership with ejection seat manufacturer Martin Baker and started to garner interest from the global military aviation community. Bremont was then approached by the US Navy Test Pilot School, USAF C-17 Globemaster community and US Navy VFA-81 Sunliners Squadron and asked to produce special military watches for their members. The Military and Special Projects Bremont made for U-2 spy plane pilots was the brand’s first custom military watch. (Photo credit: @bremontmilitary) Once the custom C-17 watch appeared on social media in 2012, the brand received significantly more attention from potential military clients. To cater for this increase in queries and requests for projects, Bremont’s Military and Special Project Division was established by Catherine Villeneuve. Over ten years later, Catherine – who is also Nick English’s wife – leads a sizable and dedicated team as Bremont’s Head of Military and Special Projects. The C-17A Bremont ALT1-WT (Photo credit: @bremontmilitary) I first heard about Bremont from a friend who had run his own project and so got in touch with the brand’s Military and Special Projects team in 2016 to enquire about developing a watch for my Australian squadron of KC-30A air-to-air refueling aircraft. Once I’d established contact the process was straight forward. Due to the expeditionary nature of our work, I chose the Bremont World Timer as a base model and then started the back-and-forth with the Bremont design team to determine how to make the project unique and meaningful to those of us who would eventually wear it. This mainly consisted of me sending poorly constructed Microsoft Paint pictures of airplanes and crests pasted onto watches and them responding with high quality renderings of potential design options. As the military traditionally offers limited opportunities for creative expression within its ranks, I really enjoyed the opportunity to play designer with the guidance from Bremont’s professionals. Catherine explains that “The design focus is to base the client’s idea around an existing model, staying true to our brand DNA and then elegantly and subtly integrating design details within the watch dial and sometimes other watch parts, to best identify the military squadron, unit or community”. The “triple seven," an Afghan unit trained/mentored by Americans for air lift assets, most notably the Russian built Mi-17.  This watch was produced by Bremont for the American servicemen supporting that unit. Bremont distinguishes itself from many competitors’ military offerings by allowing extensive customisation options. Beyond simply featuring aircraft silhouettes on the dial or unit crests on the case back, clients can opt for a variety of modifications, depending on the size of their order. For example, the C-130J Hercules project features a small seconds hand shaped like the aircraft’s six-blade propellers; the F-14 Tomcat project has hands coloured to match the jet’s tailhook; and the movement rotors of the A-10C project are carved into the shape of the Hawg’s iconic 30mm autocannon. For our project we were able to use a GMT hand coloured to match our refueling boom and a bespoke time zone bezel that showed the ICAO codes of our frequently visited airports and air bases. The C-130J Bremont ALT1-Z (Photo credit: @bremontmilitary) There are still some design rules to adhere to – Catherine notes “We have detailed documents regarding specific Terms and Conditions when it comes to designing and purchasing a Bremont Military and Special Project watch”. However, IYKYK acronyms sometimes appear on project dials that may skirt some of the restrictions (see: USAF KC-135’s “NKAWTG”, F-16CJ Super Weasel’s “YGBSM” and RAAF 75SQN’s “YKYMF”). Custom Bremont MBIIIs for F-16CJ Super Weasels and RAAF 75SQN (Photo credit @bremontmilitary) Once our design was finalized and eligibility criteria set, it was time for me to collect orders from my colleagues to meet the minimum number requirements. The amount of emotional energy invested during the design phase made this portion of the process particularly stressful. For many at military units, this is their first foray into the world of luxury mechanical watches so justifying the price tag can be a difficult feat but to help with this, Bremont offers significant discounts to it’s military customers. Once the minimum numbers were met and deposits paid, production began with the final product being delivered about nine months later. While the completion of production and delivery marks the end of the journey for most customers, a significant number of us choose to maintain a connection with the brand by engaging through social media, sharing photos of watches in action (use your tools!) or by dropping into local boutiques to share a story and enjoy a drink. It’s also worth noting the project leader can decide whether the project is a limited run or not. Even years after the first batch of deliveries, latecomers such as new squadron members or people who didn’t have the funds at the time can still get on board as Bremont maintains contact with the original project leader to ensure accurate verification of eligibility. Bremont's Military and Special Projects Division has become a pillar of the brand's success, accounting for almost 20% of its total sales. Interestingly, design ideas incubated by military projects can also overflow to Bremont’s core range. For example, the ALT1-WT was inspired by the C-17 Globemaster watch, the ALT-1B from a B-2 bomber project and the U-22 from an F-22 Raptor project. The purple, bronze and titanium-colored barrels across the MB range were all first featured on military projects. The F-22 Bremont U-22. The exposed date wheel was first for the brand and went on to inform the design of the civilian U-22 model. (Photo credit @bremontmilitary) The Bremont Military Instagram account showcases a myriad of professional and user-submitted photos, providing a glimpse into the vast number of individual projects the Military and Special Projects Division have produced with many more discreet projects remaining unseen by the public and unspoken about by the brand. When asked which projects were her personal favorites, Catherine responded “There are so many I could mention. Over the last 13 years Bremont has created and delivered almost 500 different military and special projects. Some of them are incredibly exciting but sadly the details of many projects cannot be shared. Design-wise, I would say the F-35 collection (F-35A, F-35B, F-35C and F-35 Dambuster) is very cool, the RAF Lancaster Bomber, HSM-85 Squadron, 89th Airlift, Grim Reapers 493rd Fighter Squadron, RSAF Tornado, the Royal Marine 350th, the new Royal Navy Submariners and of course the Australian KC-30A are personal favorites.” The KC-30A Bremont ALT1-WT on the beaches of Diego Garcia (Photo credit @bremontmilitary) Although military projects account for about 80% of the timepieces produced by the Military and Special Projects Division, watches are also made for civilian organizations. These clients have included BAE Systems, Oxbridge alumni, Rapha, FedEx pilots, Aston Martin Owners’ Club, Heathrow Air Traffic Controllers, REORG veterans’ charity, as well as rugby and cricket clubs. Moving forward, we can expect to see (or maybe only hear rumors of) many more bespoke Bremont Military and Special Projects watches that not only tell the time, but also tell the stories of the elite units, squadrons, ships and regiments that they have been created for.  READ NEXT: Marathon, Watch Maker For The Modern Military Author: Nic is an Australian military pilot that has been a follower of W.O.E. since the early days. He has a particular interest in custom military watch projects having designed and produced timepieces with multiple brands

Mercenaries, Arms Dealers, CIA Contractors, and Navy SEALs – a timepiece can complement a fictional character. Watches play a significant role in film. An accurate depiction of a character often includes a watch they might actually wear, and this is especially true in the military, intelligence and espionage genre. When this happens, it lends a sense of credibility to the work.  This is likely a mixture of art imitating life and vice versa.  Believe it or not, we know plenty of real “spies” and “operators” whose watch choices were influenced by movies.  The Bond Omega and Bond Rolex are obvious ones. But other watches are also featured on the silver screen, and we’ll explore them here. (Photo Credit James Rupley) In Hollywood, watch decisions range from paid product placement (as seen with the Bond Omega) to actors' personal watches worn on set and prop masters making specific choices for what they deem is best for that character.  It’s a small detail, but as enthusiasm around horology grows, and viewers develop a more nuanced understanding of the details that make up a character for the growing number of watch enthusiasts, the watch becomes an element that says a lot about a character.  In this piece, we’ll take a look at several examples of W.O.E. in Hollywood and provide our thoughts on the watch choices for a given character.  Blood Diamond- Breitling Chrono Avenger: In Blood Diamond, Danny Archer, a Rhodesian smuggler and ex-mercenary, embarks on a hair-raising adventure to find a large diamond in the midst of the Sierra Leone Civil War. Leonardo DiCarprio's character wears a Breitling Chrono Avenger, with a black dial and solid titanium 44mm case on a brown calf leather strap.  Overall, this watch nails it.  We all know that sketchy dudes wear Breitling and a Rhodesian mercenary turned diamond smuggler is the very definition of sketchy.  The movie takes place in 1999, when Breitling was at the height of its sketchiness and was a go-to tool for gray area operators. Both former CEO of Blackwater Eric Prince and former British SAS turned African mercenary Simon Mann wore Breitling Emergencies.   Breitling has developed an almost cult-like following in the national security community. With strong roots in aviation, Breitling is a signal that one is adventurous but also appreciates fine craftsmanship in utilitarian tools. Breitling has cultivated this narrative through marketing and product development of unique tools for adventurers, particularly in the military and aviation space.  13 Hours: The Secret Soldiers of Benghazi - Rolex Submariner In 13 Hours, Ty "Rone" Woods, a CIA Global Response Staff contractor played by James Badge Dale, wore a six digit Rolex Submariner while defending the State Department facility and the CIA annex in Benghazi, Libya.  As a former SEAL turned GRS contractor, this choice makes sense given the Naval Special Warfare (NSW) community's long standing relationship with Rolex and Tudor.  As we have documented in the past, it is common for SEALs to commemorate a deployment or BUD/S graduation with a Rolex Submariner. In fact, according to research by Rolex Magazine, the real Tyrone had at least two watches: a Rolex Sea-Dweller reference 16660 and a Panerai Luminor Marina, which is also common in the Teams. As documented by Rolex Magazine, "On January 1st, 2010, late on a Friday night, he registered an account with RolexForums.com under the username sdfrog177. He wrote a post mentioning the sale of his Panerai Luminor Marina 44mm and a Rolex Sea-Dweller triple 6 model (1983-1984 model). Thanks, T.W., he signed at the bottom.” According to a declassified CIA document, “On the morning of September 12, the CIA Base was subjected to repeated mortar fire . . . Defending the Base from the rooftop, they died when a mortar round landed near them. Tyrone Woods loved his life, his family, and his country. All who knew him remember that he was a joy to be around and he always made people feel better. Tyrone was 41 years old.” Lord of War -  Platinum Rolex President Day-Date: Lord of War is a 2005 (mostly) fictional Hollywood account of the life of Viktor Bout, aka the "Merchant of Death," a notorious Russian arms dealer who took advantage of the fall of the Soviet Union to sell off the massive arms left over at significant profit. Yuri Orlov, played by Nicolas Cage, wears a platinum Rolex President Day-Date, overall a fitting timepiece for this uber-wealthy and charismatic character. Cage, an avid watch collector himself, has an impressive collection; it is possible this is a personal watch.  The real Merchant of Death, Viktor Bout, was arrested in a sting operation led by the US Drug Enforcement Administration (DEA) in Bangkok in 2008.  During his arrest, Bout was wearing a Breitling B-1, a watch that he was able to wear while in detention for at least a month.  Another sketchy dude wearing a Breitling . . . in the business, we call this a pattern.  Terminal List - Oris, RESCO Instruments, IWC, Ares and more: (Photo Credit: Justin Lubin) Watches play a central role in former SEAL-turned-writer Jack Carr’s Terminal List book series.  Central to the story of James Reece is a legacy Rolex Submariner, purchased by his father, Thomas Reece, during an R&R in Saigon during his first tour in Vietnam with SEAL Team Two. The elder Reece went on to wear this Sub while serving as a CIA Case Officer overseas (sound familiar?). So it is no surprise that the Amazon series adaptation contains several accurate and well-placed watches for the lead (James Reece) and supporting characters.  We are told that these choices were organic and not product placements, which makes it even cooler.  (Photo Credit: Justin Lubin) James Reece, played by Chris Pratt, wears several watches throughout the series, including an Oris Aquis Pro Date Calibre 400, Resco Instruments BlackFrog Gen2 Black PVD (an insider told us he wanted to wear a military watch in specific scenes), a G-Shock GA-100-1A1 and a period correct 5.11 Military Tactical Field Ops Watch.  Carr even makes a cameo in the film wearing an Ares Diver, who the founder of was former CIA. (Photo Credit: Justin Lubin) Overall, it is a well done series with great “watch spotting,” including several Oris, Digital Tool Watches (DTWs) and even an IWC Big Pilot IW500901 worn by Steve Horn (the villain- Jai Courtney).  Both Pratt and Carr are watch guys and it's cool to see these pieces featured, another subtle and accurate nod to our community. It’s always a joy when someone gets it right.  Magnum PI - Rolex Pepsi GMT-Master 16750: We have previously said that the Rolex GMT, any reference, is the ultimate CIA Case Officer’s watch– a classy and refined tool that signals to others you are a man of culture, yet don’t mind getting your hands dirty. The ideal Case Officer has been described as a “Ph.D. that can win a bar fight,” and this idiom covers Thomas Magnum well. (Photo Credit James Rupley) Magnum was a former SEAL, Naval Intelligence Officer and Vietnam War veteran. He’s the ultimate cool guy from the 80s and the Pepsi GMT is the perfect watch for him.  During an interview with Frank Rousseau, Selleck said of the watch: "I’ve always loved that watch. It was the perfect match for Magnum. It’s a watch that likes action, and believe me I know what I’m talking about. I’ve had my fair share of “sport” watches but never one as tough as the Rolex. It’s been underwater, buried in sand, taken I don’t know how many knocks, and never a problem. It’s called the Pepsi because the bezel colors are the same as the Pepsi logo. Personally, I thought the red went well with the Ferrari and the blue matched Hawaii’s lagoons and sky. " You might think you’re cool, and you might actually be cool, but you will never be Tom Selleck sporting a legendary mustache in a red Ferrari wearing a vintage Rolex GMT Pepsi cool.   -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: Prince Harry The Military Watch Enthusiast This article has been reviewed by the CIA's Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

We are happy to announce the release of a special edition watch pouch and challenge coin in partnership with GBRS Group.  The pouch is constructed with repurposed issued AOR-1 camouflage uniforms worn by GBRS co-founders and former Navy SEALs Cole Fackler and DJ Shipley.  Each order includes a W.O.E.-GBRS challenge coin.  $40 of every purchase will be donated directly to Third Option Foundation, a nonprofit organization supporting the CIA’s paramilitary officers of the Special Activities Center (SAC).  We expect to raise over $20,000 and will provide proof of the donation once the fundraiser is complete. Cole and DJ with donated uniforms, Panerais on the wrist. Overview:  This release is an updated version of one of our best selling products, the W.O.E. Travel Pouch and challenge coin.  Made in the USA, the single watch case is durable, compact and functional, and honors our community with subtle accents. Like a great watch, the case is a tool, made to be used and to last decades. The GBRS AOR-1 case has an updated card with red trim and the GBRS Old-English “g” is on one side of the watch card and the back of the watch case. AOR-1:  The case flap keeper is constructed with repurposed issued AOR-1 camouflage uniforms worn by Cole and DJ.  AOR-1 was introduced in 2010 for Navy Special Operations and was developed for desert/arid environments.  The pattern has been used widely throughout the Middle East and Africa. DJ wearing AOR-1 camouflage during free fall training. GBRS Group:  GBRS Group is a veteran-owned, Tier 1 training and services organization committed to imparting critical skills and real-world experiences to end-users in military, federal, state and local special operations units.  GBRS Group was founded by Cole Fackler and DJ Shipley, two former Navy SEALs who served in NSW Development Group, the Navy’s Tier 1 Special Mission Unit. Cole deployed overseas with NSW. As previously discussed in the Dispatch, Naval Special Warfare (NSW) has a long history with timepieces.  Since the early 1960’s, frogmen have utilized tool watches including Tudor, Seiko, G-Shock and various other dive watches.  Today, NSW continues this tradition with a strong culture of high end tool watches, including Panerai, Rolex, Tudor, Bremont and various other timepieces. Third Option Foundation:  The name refers to the motto of CIA's Special Activities Center: Tertia Optio, the President’s third option when military force is inappropriate and diplomacy is inadequate. Third Option Foundation is dedicated to providing comprehensive family resiliency programs, working behind the scenes to quietly help those who quietly serve. “You will probably never know the names of these silent heroes who defend our safety and freedoms in the most distant corners of the world. They’re often the first in and the last to leave many conflicts around the globe. For decades, the operators of CIA's Special Operations units have served and sacrificed in quiet anonymity.  Particularly in the years since 9/11, this small group, along with their families, has borne an unprecedented burden in the fight to protect our nation. The nature of their service means they and their loved ones cannot seek the support or relief available to military service members and their families. Third Option Foundation is the only organization that fills this gap, by providing crucial survivorship assistance and resiliency programs to heal the wounded, help the families of those we have lost, and support those who are still serving. “I was the commander of a unit that, within the span of about 18 months, sustained a number of casualties of operators killed in action overseas. There were more than a dozen children who were suddenly without fathers, and wives who had lost their husbands. As we were flying across the country notifying the families, we saw just how significant the need was for those family members for a safety net, for support and understanding. We decided to create an organization to address the really unique needs of our agency’s Special Operations community that weren’t being met. — Anonymous, Co-Founder of Third Option Foundation” At W.O.E., we are passionate about serving those who serve us and this is at the core of who we are as a business and community. We believe that doing good is good business and it would be hypocritical of us to not give back to our community. We will continue to be transparent about our support.   *Photos by James Rupley and GBRS. **W.O.E. has no affiliation with Third Option Foundation and this fundraiser is not officially endorsed by Third Option Foundation.   THIRD OPTION FOUNDATION IS A 501(C)(3) TAX-EXEMPT NATIONAL NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATION.

Saudi astronaut Ali Alqarni peered out the window of the International Space Station (ISS). The bright blue glow of the earth’s atmosphere roughly 250 miles below him filled his vista.  He slid his Rolex “Pepsi” GMT-Master II off his wrist and let it go, the watch drifting, weightless, right in front of the window. In a rare moment of serenity, Alqarni snapped a picture of the watch.  When I first came across the picture on @niccoloy’s Instagram page, I ignorantly assumed “Prince Ali '' was a wealthy Saudi, on a “mission” to the ISS.  As it turns out, Captain Alqarni was not a billionaire space tourist, but instead a professional aviator–a Captain in the Royal Saudi Air Force having logged over 2,000 hours of flight time and multiple combat deployments on the F-15.  While the Rolex GMT-Master II looked like any old Rolex, it was so much more– it was a symbol of Alqarni’s achievements, a commemorative watch purchased after his wedding and a complement to the Breitling B-1 he had worn since graduating flight school. It also pulled double duty as a true tool in the cockpit, the most fitting application of the watch considering its jet-age history.  We spoke with Alqarni, a follower of W.O.E., and found in him a passion for service to his country, and a sense of conviction that watches are meant as tools as well as extensions of our identity and symbols of our accomplishments. Like many space voyages before Axiom Mission 2, Alqarni’s trip was just as much cultural and political as it was scientific.  The Saudi Space Commission launched in 2017 as a part of Vision 2030, and Alqarni and Rayyanah Barnawi were the second and third, respectively, Saudis to reach space under the Saudi Space Commission. Barnawi, the first Saudi woman in space, is a stem cell researcher with a complementary skill set to Alqarni’s.  Barnawi wore a yellow “Mission to the Sun” Moonswatch on the ISS.   The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (KSA) hoped the mission would inspire the next generation of Saudi Arabian citizens to focus on science, technology, engineering, and mathematics (STEM).    Alqarni’s commemorative Omega Speedmaster, also worn on the trip. Watches of Spaceflight (W.O.S.)? When it comes to “Watches of Astronauts” (W.O.A.?), we immediately think of the Omega Speedmaster, a watch with strong ties to space exploration and that most notably played an important role during Apollo 13.  But a plethora of other brands have exited earth's atmosphere, including a previous Rolex GMT worn on the wrist Dr. Edgar Mitchell during the Apollo missions. The Rolex GMT-Master was a logical watch given the robust movement and GMT function, and legendary US Air Force officer Chuck Yeager’s watch of choice is still prized by aviators to this day.   As with Intelligence and Special Operations, watches have a strong historical tie to space exploration, initially due to the functional aspect of a watch, but at present, their cultural significance is equally as strong.  That said, Alqarni noted that most modern astronauts relied on Digital Tool Watches (DTWs), proving more functional than mechanical watches. Fighter Pilot Turned Astronaut: Though Alqarni was passionate about watches from an early age, his real exposure to military watch culture originated during his flight training in the United States in 2011.  His US Air Force officer mentor wore a Breitling F-15 Airwolf "Eagle Driver" with his call sign engraved on the caseback.  The mentor explained the significance of squadron commissioned watches and as a result, Alqarni was hooked.  From humble roots and fresh off a scholarship from King Faisal Air Academy, Alqarni wasn’t in a position to buy a brand new watch, so he settled on a pre-owned Breitling B-1 to commemorate his graduation. As a part of the Undergraduate Pilot Training (UPT), Alqarni visited the  Space Center Houston and met a former F-16 pilot-turned-astronaut.  This planted the seed that eventually led Alqarni to a career as an astronaut, but with no Saudi space program at the time, future space travel seemed unlikely.  Alqarni also received his call-sign: “Prince Ali”, based on the playful assumption from US Airmen that Alqarni must be related to the Royal family, the type of culturally insensitive, but well-intentioned humor common in our community.   Over the next decade, Alqarni wore the Breitling B-1 throughout his training and combat deployments.  For the same reasons my personal Breitling Aerospace was ideal for clandestine operations around the globe, Alqarni’s B-1 was a practical tool watch for an F-15 pilot.  The digital screens and various functions allowed him to time flights and track multiple time zones.  It was a tool, but also a symbol of his accomplishments, his passion for flying and the significance of time in the world of aeronautics.  During our conversation, he proudly explained his devotion to aviation and said the tool was a symbol of that love.  He was proud of every scratch on it. The Rolex: In 2018, in preparation for his wedding day Alqarni walked into an Authorized Dealer in Jeddah and put his name on the list for the Rolex GMT-Master II on a Jubilee bracelet.  It was a logical choice for a professional pilot, the Pepsi GMT has strong roots in aviation.  For confirmation that “Prince Ali” is not a real Prince, look no further than the year he had to wait for his Rolex. Like the rest of us commoners, he had to wait a year until he received “the call” two months after his wedding.  Regardless of the wait, the watch immediately became a favorite and adorned his wrist on training missions and deployments.  The Rolex catapulted him down the watch rabbit hole, and his collection only grew over the years. Space Trip: In 2020, the Saudi Space Commission sent out the request for volunteers to travel on Axiom Mission 2, originally scheduled for early 2023.  The six month selection process whittled 200 applicants down to Alqarni and Rayyanah Barnawi.  It was a commercial spaceflight led by veteran NASA astronaut Peggy Whitson.  As with previous spaceflights, the mission was a symbol of national pride and intended to signal that KSA was focused on the future.  The inclusion of a female member of the team was a clear message that KSA was focused on modernization.  Only in 2017 were women allowed to drive after a decree from King Salman. Alqrani’s personal effects and equipment were sent to the space station in advance, which included the Rolex GMT.  The GMT is noticeably absent from his wrist in pictures of Alqarani training for the mission.  Each spaceflight member was provided a custom Omega Speedmaster Professional.  The astronauts’ names and the team’s patch–a dragon capsule flanked with the Saudi and US flags–were engraved on the caseback. A patch honoring the mission’s focus on inspiration, education and teaching, symbolized by the five S.T.E.A.M symbols. Science represented by a DNA strand, Technology represented by a set of connected circles, Engineering represented by a cog, Arts represented by a brush, and Math represented by the Pi symbol.  The Mission: When Alqarni arrived at the ISS, he was provided access to his personal effects and equipment needed for scientific experiments in the zero gravity environment.  Alqarni nervously unwrapped the watch that he had not seen for six months, reflecting, “I was worried that the watch was not going to work.”  It was an emotional and symbolic moment: Both the watch and Alqarni had made it against all odds. And both were right on time. For Alqarni, the watch ticking embodied all that it took to get to the ISS and the sacrifice and triumph of the Saudi people. Quickly realizing that the jubilee bracelet was loose, a result of weight loss during training, Alqarni wound the watch and set the primary time to Zulu Time (Coordinated Universal Time), the time used by the ISS, and the secondary hand to Saudi Arabia (Zulu + 3).  Throughout the journey, Alqarni manipulated the bezel to quickly check the time for Tokyo, etc. as he traveled through space.    Zero Gravity: Alqarni explained that the self-winding automatic watch worked well in zero gravity conditions, the wrist movement and inertia was enough to move the pendulum.  Alqarni did not have to wind the watch again. After 10 days in space, the team splashed down in the Gulf of Mexico on 30 May.  As Barnawi, the first Saudi woman to space, would say, “Every story comes to an end and this is only the beginning of a new era for our country and our region.”   To commemorate the trip to space and build on the history of the Rolex GMT, Alqarni planned to engrave the caseback with the dates of the voyage as well as a note summarizing his accomplishments to date.  Alqarni currently has one daughter and has aspirations to grow his family. He hopes to give the watch to his children in the future. Who knows, they might even take it back to space one day.  Read Next: The Lasting Legacy Of The CIA’s Lockheed A-12 And The Watch That Served It

79 years ago the most important Allied coordinated effort of WWII took place. These watches kept soldiers on time.  On Tuesday June 6th, 1944 the largest seaborne invasion in history occurred. Nearly 160,000 allied troops managed to change the course of WWII by storming the beaches of Normandy and setting off the liberation of France from the Nazis, and later, a victory. The invasion began at 6:30am, when soldiers started storming five beaches–Omaha, Utah, Gold, Sword, Juno. Approximately 11,000 aircraft and 7,000 watercraft supported the invasion. Shortly before the landing, under the cover of darkness, Paratroopers, including commandos from the Office of Strategic Services (OSS), were inserted into strategic spots inland in order to weaken the German defense network and provide a strategic advantage to the soldiers arriving by amphibious craft.  Operation Overlord, June 6, 1944 Today marks the 79th anniversary of the day this incredible effort took place. Roughly 73,000 Allied soldiers were lost over the course of the invasion.  “D-Day” as its known, typically refers to these Normandy landings, but in the larger military context, it refers to the exact time a combat action takes place. D-Day and H-Hour refer to the day an hour a coordinated effort is initiated. “D-Day”, in the case of the Normandy Invasion, was actually set for June 5th, but General Eisenhower made the choice to delay the attack due to rough seas and inclement weather.  General Eisenhower reportedly wore a Heuer Chronograph, as identified by @niccoloy (Government Archives)  In war, time matters. A massive concerted effort between Allied nations meant every single soldier had to be on time and operating in unison. The tool that helped orchestrate an invasion that shifted the outcome of the war? The humble wristwatch. In the 1940s, watches were hardly considered as the luxury accessories they are today. Soldiers wore watches that were issued to them as a part of the set of tools needed to do a very important job.  Photo Credit: Vertex Watches  History buffs, WWII enthusiasts, and even re-enactors pay incredible attention to details surrounding WWII, but somehow one of the most important pieces of kit–the watch–is often overlooked. At W.O.E. we care about nothing but details, so today, on the anniversary of D-Day, we’ll take a look at some of the watches that were on the wrists of soldiers, sailors, and airmen that were involved in the invasion.  The A-11 (produced by Bulova, Elgin, Waltham and others) Personal collection of former CIA Officer and W.O.E. contributor, J.R. Seeger. Commonly referred to as “the watch that won the war”, the A-11 was the most ubiquitous service watch during WWII. It’s a specification, rather than an actual watch, and that meant that various companies could produce watches to this spec and in turn, the government would purchase these watches and distribute them to service personnel. For its time, the specification set was exacting, the watch needed a black dial with white numerical indices, a manual-winding, hacking movement with center seconds, 10 minute markers, an hour and minute hand. The case came in at a compact 32 millimeters. The watches saw service with the Brits as well as the Americans.  The Army Ordnance Watch Army Time Piece (ATP) watch of the UK forces and the US Army Ordnance (ORD) on original OSS manual (Seeger’s personal collection) While the A-11 was rated for aviation operations (and specific maritime operations), the “ORD” watches were general-purpose watches issued to US soldiers en masse. The specification outlined in the TM 9-1575 War Department Technical Manual for Wrist Watches, Pocket Watches, Stop Watches allows for some variation in design, so Waltham, Hamilton, Bulova and Elgin all put their own twist on these watches meant to be mass produced for soldiers. These watches are distinguished by their white dials and “Ord Dept” engravings on the caseback.  The “Dirty Dozen” MoD Watches The Dirty Dozen - all twelve W.W.W. watches (Credit: A Collected Man) Most popular among collectors is a series of 12 watches produced by the likes of Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor, and Vertex. On all of these British-issued watches you’ll find W.W.W. (Watch, Wrist, Waterproof) and a broadarrow insignia engraved in the back. It’s unknown how many of each were produced because it’s believed that only WC, JLC, and Omega recorded their production at 6,000, 10,000,  and 25,000 respectively. The Dirty Dozen were general service watches, and that meant they saw service with various service roles across all functions of the military. While these pieces were not delivered until after D-Day at the conclusion of the war, they are a product of this conflict. IWC Dirty Dozen piece with original box (Credit: A Collected Man) We tend to romanticize the equipment used by service members carrying out brave efforts that changed the course of world history. Watches are certainly among the kind of things we tend to prescribe a certain importance to–and that’s not to be ignored, timekeeping is absolutely vital especially when it comes to a massive coordination such as Operation Overlord. But watches only supported the mission as a piece of gear with an assigned function. They were, and always will be, tools to get the job done. Today we honor and remember the valiant efforts of Allied service members 79 years ago to this day, and the actions taken by them that resulted in a free world that flourishes.    If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: CIA’s JAWBREAKER Team And A Rolex Submariner  

One of the coolest parts of the W.O.E. platform is exposing people to the world of watches in an unpretentious and engaging manner.  Getting into watches can be intimidating and it is difficult to know where to start. Regardless of one's socioeconomic status and access to disposable income, we recommend starting with a watch under-$1,000.  Just because you can afford a Rolex, doesn't mean you should start there.   In the “Ask W.O.E. Anything” Dispatch, I put forward my belief that a Seiko is a good place to start, and maybe end with watch collecting.  That said, there are some great watches under $1,000 and there is no right answer to this question.  In order to capture a broad collection of suitable watches, we asked a handful of our friends from both the traditional watch and NatSec communities to provide their choice for the “Best Watch Under $1,000.” This is an incredibly diverse list of individuals from former Special Operations warriors, Intelligence Officers, and divers, to some of the leading experts in the watch community.  The one thing they all have in common is a shared appreciation for watches.  While all of them have objectively more “expensive” watches in their collection, they have a genuine appreciation for these more affordable timepieces. CWC Royal Navy Jason Heaton, author, freelance writer, and podcast host, The Grey NA TO and author of Depth Charge. I’ve long contended that the CWC Royal Navy dive watch is the watch a “real” James Bond would wear, at least the 21st-century iteration of MI6’s famous “blunt instrument” spy. Issued since the 1980s to British Navy divers and Special Forces operators, it is a tough, classic, unassuming watch that can truly go anywhere and manages the balance between looking good and not drawing attention to itself. The quartz version (Approx. $930), with its 300 meters of water resistance, long-life battery, and fixed strap bars means its owner can go forth in the world on adventures, clandestine or otherwise, without having to worry about his watch. And that’s the highest of compliments, in my mind.  Seiko Prospex SNJ025 aka The 'Arnie' Chris Craighead, former British Special Air Service (SAS), @christian_craighead The Seiko Prospex ($525) has a unique and rich history. Not only was it worn by Arnold Schwarzenegger in movies such as Commando, Predator, and Raw Deal, it was also one of the first watches issued to an East Coast-based Naval Special Warfare (NSW) unit. The watch is extremely tough and practical. The dual, analog and digital face makes it a versatile watch for whatever purpose you choose to wear it. Tornek-Rayville TR-660  Brock Stevens, Active Duty US Navy Diver, EDC enthusiast, and photographer behind @deepsea_edc.  The Tornek-Rayville TR-660 ($950) is a no-frills, straight-to-the-point tool watch. As an active duty US Navy Diver who believes in wearing watches for their intended purposes, I love that about it. With a robust movement, 200 meters of water resistance, a legible dial, and lightning bright lume, I count on this watch to get the job done during my working dives. I have beat the living hell out of this thing, banging it around on just about every type of warship the US Navy has to offer, and it just keeps on ticking. Any watch can sit in the collection and look pretty, but if you’re after ultimate function and genuine military heritage at a reasonable price point, look no further. Rowing Blazers X Seiko 5 Sports Watch (Limited Edition 2023)  Eric Wind, leading expert in vintage watches. Eric founded and owns Wind Vintage  The Seiko 5 Sports line offers some of the best accessible mechanical watches on the market. Having had a bunch over the last few years, they are solid, reliable, and attractive - a winning combination. I really like the model we have used for our latest Rowing Blazers x Seiko watches ($495) as it is 40mm, but wears slightly smaller and looks great on men or women. They are hard to argue with for under $500 and are great for travel, the pool, and whatever else you might need. Sangin Instruments “Neptune” James Rupley, Co-founder of small arms reference publishing industry leaders, Vickers Guide and Headstamp Publishing. Regular photographic contributor to W.O.E. I subscribe fully to the “buy cheap, buy twice” maxim, so buying an inexpensive watch can actually be a riskier proposition than buying a much more expensive watch. Is there a $200 watch that you can be happy with forever? It’s a fascinating question, and you can easily blow a day on YouTube watching others try to answer it.  As someone who spends so much time photographing collectibles, aesthetic merit is always going to be a dominant factor in just about anything I focus on. I think the Sangin Instruments “Neptune” ($859) is an excellent example of a watch that skillfully blends functional elements with an attractive design. I love that the Neptune comes with both a metal bracelet and a rubber strap – options that offer me plenty of variety for use in any situation. Timex Marlin Automatic Marty Skovlund, Jr., Former Army guy, avid coffee drinker, aspiring sketchy dude, current Editor-in-chief of Task & Purpose I love a classy watch that is comfortable on the wrist but doesn’t draw attention or accusations of elitism. Timex is the opposite of elite in the watch world, and they make a helluva wrist piece that you aren’t afraid of wearing as a daily driver. And frankly, I wore a digital Timex Ironman on many deployments in a past life, so a non-digital, automatic Timex with a day and date complication feels like a natural evolution. I love mine, and it’s one of the most affordable automatics on the market. The Timex Marlin Automatic ($269) rocks a 40mm stainless steel case, a beautiful deep navy blue dial, and a classic domed acrylic crystal — it looks like a compromise between an ultra-rugged sport watch and a black tie dress watch. This isn’t a go-everywhere, do-anything piece with only 50m of water resistance and a crystal that’s easy to scuff; but it’s perfect for long days at the office or hitting all of Hemingway’s old drinking spots in Madrid in a single day. Pro tip: My Timex Marlin came with a leather strap too orange for my taste. I swapped it out for a W.O.E. Jedburgh Leather strap, and that dark brown leather complements the navy dial perfectly. Seiko Turtle Dave Hall, SOCS (SEAL), USN, Ret. Retired US Navy SEAL. Watch and firearms enthusiast. @davehall1911 The Seiko “Turtle” ($300-600), a nickname for the 6309-7040, could easily be described as the “AK-47 of the watch world”. It’s simple, rugged, affordable, reliable, and has stood the test of time with little necessary improvement. The watch is at home underwater, in freefall, or running an obstacle course. It’s accurate enough to keep track of your total time of dive, calculate M700 time fuse burns, or keep track of your dune run times. You don’t have to take it off to enter a SCIF (Sensitive Compartmented Information Facility) and it is as equally at home on a direct-action mission as it is at the hotel bar in Zangaro (“Dogs of War” cameo reference). The modern Turtle, known as the Prospex SRPE93, has all the same clean lines and durability from the original 6309 and keeps better time than ever. Tornek-Rayville Paradive  J.R. Seeger, retired Central Intelligence Agency (CIA) officer and author of seven MIKE4 espionage novels and three Steampunk Raj novels set in WWI.  T-R is a US-based watch company that builds field and dive watches that have the DNA of 1960s and 1970s MIL-SPEC watches. The Paradive ( approx. $900) is a modern take on the vintage Benrus Type 1. It is a bead-blasted stainless steel, purpose-built automatic watch with excellent luminous markings and comes with either a standard dive bezel or a 12-hour bezel providing a means to track two time zones. The watch has a depth rating of 200m. It is the most robust dive watch I own. T-R is a small company and there is a wait time while they make your watch. It is well worth the wait. Marathon Navigator Steel SSNAV-D James Stacey, Lead Editor with Hodinkee.com and co-host of The Grey NA TO podcast. If we’re talking about a great tool watch under a grand and you really want to use it, you can’t do much better than the new steel version of Marathon’s long-standing (and long-serving) Navigator ($800). Trading the common and gov’t issue-ready composite case for one in steel, this newly announced Marathon is still 41mm wide, 11mm thick, and sports a field-ready 12-hour bezel. Add to that a high-accuracy quartz movement, 100 meters of water resistance, and tritium tube illumination and you've got a worker. It’s a modernized take on a classic design that traces its lineage across some of the toughest locales that our world has (and had) to offer and it remains a watch that was primarily designed to be offered in contract to governments and special outfits all over the globe and the new steel version even has its own Nato Stock Number. If you want a go anywhere, do anything watch that remains subtle but tough enough for any sort of work, the Navigator is a natural in steel - just add your fav color NA TO. I recommend grey. Sangin Dark Professional Asha Wagner, HazMat Team Manager for a National Disaster Response Task Force and watch and gear enthusiast. @wildlander6 My pick for a sub $1,000 watch is my Sangin Dark Professional ($658). This has been my go-to work, play and travel watch for the past few years. The reasons why I keep opting for this watch are it’s durable, versatile, and comfortable. I am a full-time Fire Captain and a HazMat Team Manager for a National Disaster Response Task Force and am also pretty active with a bunch of outdoorsy hobbies in my off time. I am rough on equipment and an impact-prone individual. I need a watch that can keep up with me and that I don’t have to worry about whether I’m scuba diving or breaching and forcing entry into a building. The Dark Pro has taken everything I’ve thrown at it and come up smiling. As far as versatility it is a 300-meter dive watch with a 24-hour GMT hand, drilled lug holes for easy strap changes, a fully indexed, unidirectional count-up bezel with bright long lasting lume, and a color-matched date wheel at 4:30. The date wheel is there when I need it, and all but disappears when I don’t. The crazy bright lume is great in inclement situations, plus lume just downright makes me happy. The case comes in at 43.5 mm, but with a 20mm lug width 12 mm thickness, and 42 mm bezel, it wears sleeker than its specs might initially suggest. It’s a watch that doesn’t draw a lot of undue attention depending on where I’m traveling, but at the same time makes me smile every time I look at it.  Mine is a co-branded watch with Triple Aught Design and comes in at $795.   Halios Seaforth IV Justin Couture, “The Wristorian” Freelance blogger fascinated by the historical context surrounding vintage tool watches. @the_wristorian Being a vintage guy at heart, I am ever on the lookout for a watch that combines old-school design language with modern capability. Enter the Halios Seaforth IV ($775), the newest iteration of what could now be called a horological cult classic. With Goldilocks dimensions and a clear focus on legibility, the Seaforth IV effortlessly exudes the sort of skindiver vibes that will make you want to inexplicably take up spearfishing. Factor in the brilliant Bahama Yellow dial and the titanium case option and you’ve got the apex predator of modern microbrand divers. Pro-tip for the WOE crowd, for added utilitarianism the Seaforth can be made into a destro configuration by request. Seiko SKX Nick Ferrell, Founder DC Vintage Watches Vintage Seiko is rich in history, and none more than the venerable Seiko SKX, worn on the wrist of many military and intelligence officers I've worked with - both previously employed with the government, and now as customers - the world over.  The SKX line has long been a "gateway drug" for watch collectors just starting down the slippery slope towards obsession, as it was for me.  One of my first Seiko's, I wore the 1999 Seiko SKX007 (on the right) throughout a two-year tour in the White House Situation Room, and it served me well.  And this is a two-for-one - a savvy hunter can find both the SKX and the steel-grey dial 1960s Seiko 7625-8233 dress watch, absurdly large for the era, in good nick for under $1k.  A fantastic two-watch collection, perhaps? Scurfa Diver One D1-500 Benjamin Lowry, Writer, US Coast Guard veteran, former commercial diver, and curator of @submersiblewrist.  With my background in commercial diving, I was always going to be a fan of Scurfa Watches, a brand owned and operated by Paul Scurfield, a North Sea commercial saturation diver. Beyond our occupational connection, the watches themselves represent class-leading value for the busy diving tool watch category, pairing impressive specifications with the legitimacy that comes with having been developed and tested in the owner’s salty workplace. The Diver One D1-500 is the brand’s centerpiece, offering 500 meters of water resistance, excellent lume, an automatic helium escape valve (which, in this very rare case, makes sense), a domed sapphire crystal, and a Swiss quartz caliber from Ronda, all housed within a surprisingly restrained 40mm wide by 47.7mm long case.  While I’m nowhere near as cool as Paul, I have worn the Diver One extensively in recreational and commercial diving scenarios, including at least one near-death experience. Priced around $200, which is insane, the Scurfa Diver One is a great way to live the #useyourtools ethos we subscribe to around here without breaking the bank.  Tornek-Rayville TR-660 Owner of Soturi, - Marine veteran-owned handmade watch straps inspired by military heritage.   When I came across the Tornek-Rayville TR-660 ($950) it instantly hooked me. As an avid enthusiast of military watches, the T-R’s slab-sided case, matte finish, and lighter weight are everything you want in a field/dive watch. Simple, yet significant. Add-on T-R’s intriguing history with U.S. Special Operations (the TR-900 model) and you have yourself a winning combination that’s hard to compete with. Bonus - its integrated lug/pin holes make for easy swapping of your favorite watch straps.  “Arabic Seiko'' W.O.E., former CIA Case Officer turned watch influencer The 42mm “Arabic Seiko'' ref SNKP21J1  (aka the Seik-W.O.E. aka the W.O.E. hype watch) is popular in the W.O.E. community.  In part this is because it is a cool and unique piece at an affordable price point and received consistent coverage on W.O.E., but just as importantly because of the meaning it has for our community.  Many of us have spent a considerable amount of time in the Middle East over the past 20+ years.  I have a strong affinity for the rich culture and language of the Arab world and this piece is a constant reminder of that connection and that period in my life.  A lot of veterans and NatSec identify with this connection. ($130-$200) If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.   READ NEXT: W.O.E. Holiday Gift Guide

Keeping your watches and tools organized is important and having a central location in your house for your wallet, keys, watch and other tools is crucial.  So we designed our own W.O.E. Everyday Carry (EDC) Valet for at-home use or while on the move.  Each order includes a W.O.E. Surreptitious Beverage Entry Tool (S-BET), aka a challenge coin bottle opener.

This Dispatch is a counter argument to the previous Dispatch “James Bond Should Wear a Rolex” To those familiar with modern fiction, the inclusion of extreme detail for items such as the tools of the hero’s trade are incredibly common, but rarely to the extent found in Ian Fleming’s text written 70 years ago. Authors today rarely go the distance to ground their characters in the real world as much as Fleming, with the exception of a few, notably Jack Carr in his James Reece saga. Such level of detail has created passionate responses in readers to the choices made since Fleming’s first novel in 1953, and even today, we continue to discuss these issues at length. Bond's Galco Executive Shoulder Holster, Walther P99 Gen 1, and Omega Seamaster Professional 2531.80.00, which first appeared with an automatic movement in 1997's Tomorrow Never Dies. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/ @omegabondwatches) Today, I am thrilled to be writing in the Dispatch. My name is Caleb Daniels (@commandobond), and I am a lifelong fan of all things Bond, with a particular passion for his style and selection of daily carry items. While this certainly lends a focus to sartorial items, holsters, and handguns, it also includes one of the most important pieces of any discerning gentleman’s wardrobe – his timepiece. I’m grateful for the chance to share my viewpoint today in a playful response to the “Why Rolex” piece previously published. Here, we will first share the full story of Omega’s origins with James Bond, followed by a detailed analysis of the history of product placement in Bond, and the critical role it plays in keeping the franchise alive. While this piece does not serve as a direct response to the first Dispatch, it aims to present a more thorough history of Bond, offer a better understanding of why adjustments have been made, and propose a case for why we can celebrate Omega’s inclusion in 007’s history. The Omega Story I’d like to begin by first clearing the air and telling the true story of how Omega found its way into the Bond films. While today it is clearly one of the most powerful and important marketing relationships in cinema, it did not start that way. Pierce Brosnan and Omega (Photo Credit: Unknown) Rather, it is due to the actions of costume designer Lindy Hemming. Hemming’s journey with Bond began in GoldenEye (1995), and she was faced with a challenge that few had been faced with before. There was to be a new Bond actor (Pierce Brosnan), one that was coming on the heels of a commercial disaster (Dalton’s second and final outing Licence to Kill, which released inopportunely against Batman ’89 and suffered the consequences). This was also to be the first Bond film to be made post the fall of the Soviet Union. The relevance of Bond was in question, as was the prospect of GoldenEye. The space between Licence to Kill and GoldenEye was the longest gap between films to date, six years, and with the poor reception of the previous one, it seemed as if Bond’s journey on the silver screen may be at an end. This was certainly at the forefront of everyone’s mind during the production of GoldenEye, and yet it was in the face of these challenges that arguably one of the finest Bond films was created. Now, what exactly does this have to do with Omega? Like every other Bond actor’s first outing, the goal of the film was to reintroduce the character through the lens of that era. Think Live and Let Die (1973). Moore was introduced wielding a revolver (although he carries a PPK in the film, promo imagery and the finale leaned heavily on wheel guns), sipping bourbon (not vodka martinis) and smoking cigars (not cigarettes). Minor adjustments to the layperson, but significant shifts to the stalwart fan. This process, and the space between films inspired Hemming to take a step back from Rolex, as she explained in a New York Times article. “There hadn’t been a Bond for a few years and I was given the opportunity to rethink him,” she said. “I wanted him to be more modern and European.” With that motive in mind, she looked to those she knew for guidance, including friends of her father who were Naval men, and who preferred Omega. “They were gentlemen, good guys, ready for anything,” she said. “Omega was perfect for a Naval commander who dived and rescued people.” In Hemming’s words, Rolex was not the brand of the time for a man like Bond in 1995. “The Rolex watch had become rather flash,” Ms. Hemming said. “Rolex was part of a city boy culture. It didn’t seem appropriate for Bond at that moment.” What’s most important, however, is the fact that the original deal did not include product placement. Hemming herself reached out to Omega and was given a Quartz movement Seamaster 300M, reference number 2541.80.00. Bond's Galco Executive Shoulder Holster, Omega Seamaster Professional  2541.80.00 Quartz Movement, on a Hirsch Toronto and (non-explosive) Parker Jotter pen. (Photo Credit: Rupley/@Omegabonwatches) “There was no product placement incentive in 1995 whatsoever. I went to them, and of course they were interested. But it was no more than helping us. They gave us the watches for nothing.” (Photo Credit: Bond Franchise, Thunderballs) I find this to be an important detail in this story. While this relationship quickly expanded past a costume designer’s choice and into one of the most foundational product deals in cinema, like with Fleming, it came from a natural and organic place and does not deserve to be chastised on those grounds. Rather, like many of Fleming’s own choices, this was a selection that was made by personal preference to match the moment, and then later became a marketing engine to keep the film series alive. Fleming Lore & Product Placement (Photo Credit: Rupley) Fleming was a true pioneer. He sought in his writing to clearly ground Bond in the world around him, despite the incredible adventures he found himself part of. It’s this level of detail that still allows fans today to source and locate everything from the toiletries of Bond to his preferred alcohol brands (for example, just ask my friend James Rupley about his fruitless attempts to get a bottle of Old Grand-dad bourbon featured in the novel Live and Let Die), recipes for scrambled eggs, and in the case of this article, his timepieces. In this section, we will be pulling from Fleming’s own letters surrounding his time writing Bond, as found in the book The Man with the Golden Typewriter, Ian Fleming’s James Bond Letters. (Photo Credit: Rupley) Today, this level of detail, particularly in the vein of firearms and watches, is often met with skepticism, complaints, and even accusations of pay-offs for the inclusion of such pieces. Fleming, however, wrote long before product placement was the standard fare, and he set the stage for the cinematic Bond to take part in the very same level of intense detail. His unique passion was for verisimilitude, the creation of hyper-real worlds and adventures for his fictional hero. As Fleming himself said in a letter written in response to the director of the fragrance brand Floris, which had written him thanking him for their brief inclusion in the novel Moonraker, “My books are spattered with branded products of one sort or another, as I think it is stupid to invent bogus names for products which are household words, and you may be interested to know that this is the first time a name-firm has had the kindly thought of acknowledging the published tribute.” -Ian Fleming to Michael Bodenham, Esq., Director, Floris Ltd., 89 Jerymn Street, London, S.W.1. Floris is a brilliant example of a brand that found itself included due to its own use in Fleming’s personal life. His preferred fragrance, No. 89, is still available today and is a favorite of Bond fans throughout the world, again showing the staying power of even the smallest of association with 007. In fact, Floris has happily leaned into the Bond connection, even releasing a No. 007 scent for the 60th anniversary celebrations last year. (Photo Credit: Rupley/ @Omegabonwatches) (Photo Credit: Bond Franchise / Omega) From day one of film production, it seems that Fleming was being written by brands asking for placement deals in Doctor No. Fleming wrote producer Harry Saltzman about such things and an unspecified brand in 1961, and his letter seems to set some clear parameters for how he selected products, a template that has been followed well since. Fleming to Harry Saltzman December 7th, 1961: “My Dear Harry,I have acknowledged the attached but told them to get in direct touch with your Company.Incidentally, I expect you will be getting similar approaches from other branded products used by James Bond.I don’t know what your policy in the matter will be, but I have personally found that the use of branded names in my stories helps the verisimilitude, so long as the products are quality products.Admittedly one is giving free publicity to these people, but I don’t think it matters so long as the products are in fact really good.Anyway, over to you.” Again, while Fleming himself never was paid for an endorsement, he certainly understood the power of it in producing realism, and left the decision to the film producers for how to proceed. (Photo Credit: Rupley) While the films have been met with scrutiny as described above, product placement contracts have continued to provide fans with new silver screen adventures for ages. Tomorrow Never Dies reportedly covered 100% of its product budget with brand tie-ins in 1997, and 2012’s Skyfall had nearly a third of its budget covered by a deal with Heineken. The producers of Bond have attributed this level of detail to Fleming’s work as well. The reality is, we may not have the caliber of films with the incredible production quality and stunt work that we have today without these endorsements. “Fleming describes in great detail all the things that Bond uses, whether it comes down to a glass of wine, a meal he is eating, a car he is driving, or what suit he is wearing. That’s how Bond became synonymous with quality goods. That notion really started with the books. If you think you may not be alive tomorrow, you might as well have the best of everything.” – Barbara Broccoli Now, while Fleming wrote with a great deal of intricate detail surrounding Bond’s clothes, tools, cars, and more, it took him until On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, book number 11, to switch Bond to a Rolex. Fleming’s original choice, and defense of it over a Rolex, was described by Fleming in a letter to a fan in 1958 (five years before OHMSS was published). This letter was written in response to a fan’s request that Bond upgrade his timepiece to, seemingly based on Fleming’s response, a Rolex Oyster Perpetual. For those unfamiliar with Fleming, he often referred to himself as the biographer of Bond, and frequently wrote as if his character were a real man, which is clear in the letter below. "June 5, 1958I have just got back from abroad to find your sapient rebuke of 007’s timekeeping equipment.I have discussed this with him and he points out that the Rolex Oyster Perpetual weighs about six ounces and would appreciably slow up the use of his left hand in combat. His practice, in fact, is to use fairly cheap, expendable wrist watches on expanding metal bracelets which can be slipped over the thumb and used in the form of a knuckle-duster, either on the inside or outside of the hand.In passing on his comments to you, I would add that James Bond has trained himself to tell time by the sun in either hemisphere within a few minutes.Thank you, nevertheless, for raising the point and 007 wishes to assure you that when an appropriate time-piece is available he will wear it.” It seems that Fleming finally gave in, and wrote the Rolex Oyster Perpetual into On Her Majesty’s Secret Service five years later. His expanding metal bracelet remained. (Photo Credit: Rupley/ @Omegabondwatches) I make this case in its entirety to say this – Fleming himself only named a Rolex as Bond's dedicated watch after writing ten Bond stories, (Bond briefly wears one while diving in Live and Let Die, 1954, but according to Fleming's letter, daily wore other watches until OHMSS) and he himself argued against its inclusion initially as well. There’s nothing wrong with the brand, nor would I argue that Rolex watches do not have a place on Bond’s wrist. But if everything Fleming wrote remained today, and no evolution with the times had taken place, the character would still be driving a 1930s Bentley Blower and carrying a skeletonized .25 ACP Beretta that was underpowered and outdated even in 1953. Omega has a place in the Bond story, and it is one born out of a reimagining of an iconic character, a reimagining that saved the franchise, inspired GoldenEye 007 N64, and created a new generation of fans. Deriding the brand or discounting its inclusion in the mythos is a misunderstanding of history. Both Rolex and Omega have a place in the legacy of Bond, and they deserve our respect and celebration. (Photo Credit: Rupley) My sincere thanks to WOE for the opportunity to write this counter argument, my friend Lorenzo Anselmo (@omegabondwatches) for providing me and James Rupley with unfettered access to his astounding Omega collection. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.   Read Next: James Bond should Wear A Rolex  —----------------------------------------------------------- The photography above, and much of the text stems from an upcoming project from Headstamp Publishing @headstamp and Caleb Daniels (@commandobond) – the first comprehensive study of all the firearms of James Bond, including every novel (Fleming and otherwise) and every screen treatment of the character. Other critical items, such as his watches, will be discussed in great detail, dissecting the most essential carry implements of one of the world’s most celebrated action heroes, James Bond, 007. Follow @headstamp and @commandobond to keep abreast of this project – so much more to come.

There are a few accessories that every watch owner needs, and a durable two-piece leather strap is one of them. So we went out and designed our own using the best craftsmen in America.  The Jedburgh is a two piece English Bridle Leather Strap and the Desert Night Camouflage (DNC) is a two piece leather/canvas strap using repurposed camouflage uniforms.

We often assign greater value to watches that were issued to soldiers in days gone by, like the Rolex MilSub of the ‘80s, Marine National Tudor Submariners from the ‘60s, or the Omega SM300 examples ordered by the British Ministry of Defence during the same era. There’s something fascinating about a watch that was ordered for a purpose and field-tested by some of the hardest men and women on the planet.  The shadow cast by these legendary military watches is long, and it’s easy to forget the fact that these very watches—tool watches paid for by militaries and distributed to service members—still exist today. Marathon’s main business model is proof. Ninety percent of their business comes from militaries and governmental organizations all around the world.  Anonymous W.O.E. community submitted picture.  On October 30, 1964 the US Department of Defense issued MIL-W-46374, a specification calling for a general purpose wrist watch suitable for military applications. As the years went on and the needs of military timekeeping changed, the specs were updated–slowly. The most current iteration of the specification, MIL-W-46374G, was issued in 1999. This is known as the “performance standard”, and even though a number of companies answered the call and produced watches for MIL-W-46374 namely Benrus, Hamilton, Stocker & Yale, and Timex, it was only Marathon that produced watches to the “G” specification. Mitchell Wein, the President of Marathon Watch company, and his father Leon Wein, and his grandfather Morris Wein before that, have been building watches to meet the needs of the US military, and select foreign forces around the world, for well over half a century.  Marine Forces Special Operations Command (MARSOC) wearing Marathon TSAR (Identified by Benjamin Lowry aka @submersiblewrist) “Sometimes the old specs need updating. The soldier has changed, what they need a watch for has changed, and how they use our watches has changed,” says Wein. And he works with various branches of the US Armed Forces to produce a watch that meets the needs of a modern service member. And as the times change, so do the watches, with the military providing insight into what they need. Wein then produces a watch that meets or exceeds their requirements. “There’s plenty that I’m not told–but after years in the business I can decipher coding on the purchase orders and make educated guesses as to some of the environments that our watches will be used in.”  And the needs of the future?  “We’re seeing that our watches may be exposed to radiation going forward,” Wein says.  A C-17 Globemaster III, sits at McMurdo Station in Antarctica in support of Operation Deep Freeze.  (U.S. Air Force photo by Maj. Tyler Boyd) Marathon watches are truly used all over. Wein says that the “arctic” watches–Marathon models with a white dial– are seeing service at both poles. The US uses them at McMurdo Station in Antarctica, and recently, forces that have been protecting the Northwest Passage–a joint cooperation between the US, Canada, and Denmark–have been using the watches in addition to Environment Canada. The idea is that the snow-grey color of the dial works to help the watch remain legible even if bright light is reflecting off snow-covered surroundings. ARCTIC EDITION LARGE DIVER'S AUTOMATIC (GSAR) (Photo Credit: Marathon) One of the most notable watches that Marathon has ever produced is the Navigator, it was created in 1986 to meet the needs of USAF aviators. With a 12-hour rotatable bezel, an symmetrical case that doubles as a crown guard, and of course Marathon’s signature tritium gas tubes that continually glow, the watch has seen decades of service aiding airmen and airwomen in cockpit duties. Over the years the watch case switched from stainless steel to composite fibershel. Why? To save the US government money; defense budgets are taxpayer-funded. But in the very near future it’s probable we’ll see the return of a stainless steel Navigator, and this time, with a raised bezel that makes it easy for aviators wearing flight gloves to grip, a design feature that Marathon utilizes on MSAR, GSAR, JSAR, and TSAR models. At long last, the Navigator is returning to its roots–but even better.  Canadian Diver wearing Marathon (Photo: Leading Seaman Valerie LeClair, Task Force Imagery Technician - Identified by Benjamin Lowry aka @submersiblewrist) In The Field  Various watches are issued by forces around the world. It’s up to both the needs of the force at large, and the nature of the specific unit to determine what watch is suitable for issue. However, Marathon remains the singular constant among all government-issued brands throughout the free world. Sure there are plenty of digital watches like Garmin, Casio, and Suunto issued to service members, but when it comes to analog watches, you’re more likely to see a Marathon issued to a service member than any other watch.  Military Issued Marathon Navigator (Photo Courtesy of DC Vintage Watches) W.O.E. Community Submitted Photos: In order to demonstrate the varied uses of issued Marathon watches, W.O.E. put out a call for submissions from the community. We asked you to tell the story of your issued Marathon. Where it’s been, what it’s seen, and how you came into possession of one of these watches (and in one case, it happened twice.) Then the stories came pouring in. You all answered the call and the mailbox was full of incredible accounts from members of our community demonstrating how a watch is used as a tool by forces around the world, proving that a Marathon is part of a uniform.  Garand Thumb Issued Marathon “US Government”  Like W.O.E., Garand Thumb, aka Mike Jones, is a social media influencer and Air Force veteran.  This issued Marathon US Government was used for training CONUS and has the scars to prove it. We will note that we have recently recruited Mike to the watch nerd family and he has a Sangin Instruments and a Rolex Submariner 5513 with stories to tell.  More on that later. Marathon TSAR “US Government” “Issued in 2010, back in those good old GWOT days, allegedly the company commander wanted to reward the company for another hard deployment and ordered these through supply. The watch is an absolute tank, very thick case but wears easily and the quartz movement is accurate. The tritium in the dial is fading after all these years but is still bright enough that I can tell the time easily in the dark without being so bright it's noticeable in the distance. In the end I had no idea how much the watch ran until meeting up with a fellow paratrooper who asked so we looked it up, MSRP was about 1000 USD and I was wearing that watch like it was a 100 dollar piece. But that's a testament of the durability and strength of it I suppose.” Marathon GSAR “US Government” “This was in Afghanistan in 2012; but I was issued the watch in Iraq in 2007/8 when I was a rifle platoon leader. No special guy, but we got all kinds of stuff back then like the automatic Benchmade knives, etc. (Afghanistan was even better with Arc’teryx and OR cold weather gear I still wear to this day sometimes.) I ditched the rubber strap and put it on two piece nylon (heresy I know, but the single nylons made it stick up way too high). I do remember being told at the time it was the “Army Rolex” because it supposedly was the most expensive watch you could get in Army inventory (no idea if that was true). Most of the other watches getting issued out at the time were Suuntos and eventually Garmins. One of the times I got blown up, it cracked the crystal and knocked loose some of the tritium lume tubes. I sent it into Marathon and they replaced it for free (I wish they had fixed it, so I could have kept the original), but I used it on every single deployment. It was great because it glowed just bright enough to read, but not as bright as a Suunto or Garmin that bad dudes could see from a ridge line away to initiate an ambush (which has happened). It definitely was the watch that bit me and gave me the “watch bug”, and I think was my first mechanical watch that was an automatic and didn’t need a battery. I also loved that since it was mechanical I didn’t have to take it off going into a SCIF. I’ve never had it serviced, but it’s still in the rotation and keeps great time. Now that I’m out my collection has grown quite a bit, but the GSAR was the one that started it all!” Marathon Stopwatch “Marathon stopwatches were issued to WSOs only, as a way to time takeoff and have a mechanical timing device in the event of the big show.  These specific Marathon stopwatches are not always issued anymore, due to availability and price, but I was adamant I get this one. The idea was that a mechanical stopwatch will be most resistant to an EMP. Most crewdogs just use their iPads now to time takeoff, but I like having a timing device in hand. Us being very old, we do things a little differently. We have to hit certain speeds by certain times before we can unstick for the takeoff roll. The navigator is primarily responsible for this, getting timing and telling the pilots when we’ve hit our specific time, they then cross check to make sure we’re fast enough to continue.  I also like to fly with a Marathon Navigator in my flight bag. I don’t wear it but I keep it hacked and ready to go, just in case. It’s been that way through training and 4 different airframes now, so maybe it’s more of a good luck charm than anything.” *Submissions were lightly edited for readability and anonymity.  (Identified by Benjamin Lowry aka @submersiblewrist) READ NEXT: Vietnam MACV-SOG Seikos: Setting The Record Straight 

Prince Harry has worn at least four watches with strong military ties: a Pulsar G10, Rolex Explorer II, custom Breitling Aerospace Avantage, and even a Casio G-Shock.

You don’t mess with tradition. It’s a critical piece of culture, particularly in the Intelligence and Special Operations communities, and serves as a reminder of those who have come before us, and those who will come after us—that we’re all tied together. We’re all part of the same mission. 

In this edition of the Dispatch, we address some common questions we get about W.O.E with an in-depth response. Many of these responses can even serve as standalone stories– and probably will at some point, but for now, here’s some additional insight on Watches of Espionage.  READ PART II HERE What’s a good entry-level watch? What’s a good watch under $1,000? This is the most common question we get, and we love this question because it suggests that the W.O.E. platform is opening up people to the world of mechanical watches, something that we are clearly passionate about. If your takeaway from W.O.E. is that you need a Rolex to be a cool guy, you’re missing the point. We believe the man makes the watch, not the other way around.  A badass wearing a Hublot is still a badass, just as a dweeb wearing a Rolex MilSub is still just a dweeb. It’s about who you are, not the watch you’re wearing.  Read: Best Watches Under $1,000 - Ask The Experts (Photo Credit: James Rupley) There are plenty of great watches under $1,000 and other publications have compiled lists that feature both established manufacturers and micro-brands alike that offer serious value.  That said, our answer to this question is simple: Seiko. If you like “Watches of Espionage” then you will love this brand. When it comes to tools actually used in the field, you’re likely to find a Seiko on a professional’s wrist. Seiko, after all, is the “Toyota of watches”– they’re cheap and reliable utilitarian tools. For the same reasons Toyotas are a common sight in modern conflict zones, Seikos have adorned the wrists of hard men in hard places for decades. If you’re looking at dipping your toe in the proverbial pool of mechanical watches, this is a great place to start, and even end. Arabic Dial Seiko (Photo Credit: James Rupley) The follow-up question is always, "which model?" We hesitate to provide an answer to this because it’s a deeply personal choice.  You can scroll through our collection and others and see where we have landed, but it’s best to take some time and look through the website to see what speaks to you and what’s within your budget. The best way to land on the right reference is to find a Seiko dealer near you, try some on, and ask questions. You can get an entry-level Seiko for well under $300 and I cherish mine just as much as I do my most expensive Rolex. Unfortunately, one of the downsides to Seiko is that the bracelets are the weak point. They have a specific “jangle” and can feel like they’re of much lesser quality than that watch they’re attached to.  So use some of that leftover coin to buy a few straps and change them out frequently to figure out what you like.  All the W.O.E. products are designed to be worn/used with a Seiko or a Rolex. We will do a follow-on Dispatch at some point with some tips on buying watches with value in mind. What advice do you have for someone looking to join the CIA? The second most common question we get is, "How do I join the CIA?" While the purpose of this platform isn’t to inspire the next generation of public servants, we are quickly learning this is a byproduct of W.O.E., which is great. If you want to join the CIA, don't message someone anonymously claiming to be former CIA.  Keep this goal private and practice discretion. The Agency values discretion, hence the label of a quiet professional. Here are a few pieces of advice for those interested in the operational side of the house. Become a master of a trade. CIA hires former teachers, investment bankers, plumbers, businessmen, SpecOps, doctors, lawyers, and even professional athletes. Become unique and accomplished. Have a compelling story that will interest the CIA recruiter.  You can apply right out of college, but your chances of being accepted and thriving at the Agency will greatly increase if you have unique work/life experience. Travel. Live, work and study abroad. The one common trait of 99% of CIA Case Officers is that they have significant prior overseas experience. Your job is to understand geopolitics and empathize with individuals different from you.  This can only truly be learned and demonstrated through experience. Even if you aren't interested in joining the CIA, we still think we would all be better off if we travel and experience different cultures. Learn a language. Any language is advantageous, but the harder the better. Russian, Mandarin, Persian/Farsi, Korean etc. Turn on the news and see where the current/future conflicts are. The languages spoken in that area are generally of high interest and will make a CIA recruiter happy. Keep your nose clean. You don't have to be a saint (I saw the inside of a jail cell a couple times growing up and made more than a few bad decisions). But if you do drugs, stop. Don't drink and drive. Pay your taxes. Don't commit felonies. This is all good advice for joining the CIA, but even better advice for life. READ. This one is important. Read every book/article on the intelligence business you can find. This will help you figure out if it is right for you and where your interests are aligned. The current generation has a wealth of information at their fingertips on the Intelligence Community, including on the CIA’s own website.  Take advantage of this information and do your research. If you are a foreigner, find an unattributable internet portal and google  "CIA walk in." Lastly, a career as a Case Officer is more than just a job, it’s a calling and a way of life.  You have to be all in and cannot treat it like a 9-to-5. CIA is not perfect, but I loved my time working in the building and in the field.  It is not always an easy lifestyle and comes with unique challenges, but it is a great opportunity to serve your country, see the world and live a life worth living.  Happy hunting. What watch did you wear most operationally? In my initial Hodinkee article, “The Connection Between Watches and Espionage,” which was in many ways W.O.E.’s debut to the larger watch community, I wrote about wearing my titanium Panerai Luminor Marina 8 Day during a military coup in Africa. The opening story was a relatively mundane night, no heroic activities, just a standard night as a Case Officer operating in Africa. The only reason I even remember that watch that night was that it was relatively new, and the luminous numbers stuck out. In fact, I could have written that story about countless nights wearing several watches. W.O.E.’s personal IWC Mark XVII and Africa Division challenge coin. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) But, looking back at pictures of the years I was at CIA, the most common watch on my wrist appeared to be an IWC Mark XVII.  It is a great and versatile watch that can fit in with a suit and tie at a diplomatic function in Europe or jeans and a dirty t-shirt in the African bush.  It is also not overly flashy and would not draw undue attention.  W.O.E.'s IWC with W.O.E. DNC strap prototype (Photo Credit: Michael Shaffer / @capitolsunset) Truth is, I did not put much thought into my watch while overseas; it was a tool I used regularly.  This IWC has three letters engraved on the back, only one of which is one of my initials. The engraving caused some problems during a training exercise and then when I was (REDACTED) pulled into secondary for additional “screening” (interrogation).  Fortunately, I had come up with a cover story for the three letters as the initials of a fictitious father prior to the training exercise and it was not a significant issue.  It was a good lesson and reminder that the smallest details matter in the world of espionage. W.O.E.'s Breitling Aerospace (Photo Credit: Tom Brenner) A close second was the Breitling Aerospace that I received as a gift from King Abdullah of Jordan.  This is an entirely practical watch given the digital feature set.  The digital timer was particularly useful and was used to log activities during surveillance operations in African capitals, time debriefings of ISIS members, and to record legs of Surveillance Detection Runs. How do Case Officers, Special Operations personnel, etc. afford a Rolex? First, not every HUMINT collector or military “operator” wears a mechanical timepiece, let alone a luxury watch like Rolex, Breitling or Tudor.  It is easy to get this impression given the content at W.O.E., as there is a clear selection bias for the stories we tell.  While this was largely true in the mid-20th century when many of these watches were issued and/or easily purchased at the local PX, today the vast majority of "operators” rely on cheap and effective digital tool watches.  That said, there is a strong watch culture in both the military and intelligence circles, and the percentage of individuals that have mechanical and even luxury “tool watches” likely exceeds that of the civilian counterparts of the same socioeconomic status.  The reason for this is just as much (if not more) culture than anything else. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Second, not all mechanical or even luxury timepieces cost $10,000.  As discussed above, quality Seiko tool watches can be purchased for well under $1,000 and brands like Breitling, Panerai, IWC, Tudor and many others can be acquired second-hand for a fraction of the inflated prices of Rolex. So how do we afford them? The short answer is, the same as everyone else.  Contrary to many Hollywood representations of CIA officers, the majority of Case Officers I worked with did not come from elite Ivy League backgrounds or wealthy families.  They work hard and save up.  If you have spent the last 10-20 years in an operational capacity, you have likely spent several years deployed to a conflict or other hardship post and the government has compensated you (relatively) appropriately.  While you will not become rich from this calling, you will likely have earned enough disposable income and it can be used at your discretion to fund your hobbies and interests. Many choose to use some of the funds to purchase a watch. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) One example of this is the “war zone watch.” While a government salary does not support an extensive watch collection, when officers deploy to war zones for an extended period, their pay can almost double while their personal expenses are minimized. After returning from Iraq, Afghanistan, or one of the undeclared expeditionary locations, many officers take a portion of their savings and purchase a watch to discreetly commemorate the accomplishment. Further, as much as we all can’t stand the black box of who gets priority on the Authorized Dealers (AD) “waiting list”, the stores and sometimes even individual sales associates have significant leeway with whom they prioritize as customers.  Some ADs in Northern Virginia and metropolitan areas near large military bases prioritize clientele from military and government agencies. Why are you anonymous? I get the impression that a lot of people think the main reason behind W.O.E. being anonymous is because of OPSEC (operational security).  In reality, when I left CIA, I requested that my association with the Agency be declassified.  This was approved with certain stipulations/restrictions. W.O.E.’s hands busy influencing. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) The real reason “W.O.E.” is anonymous is twofold.  First, “Watches of Espionage” is not about one person, it’s about our entire community.  “W.O.E.” is the curator or the “guide” on this journey, but it’s not just about me.  I insert some of my own experiences and stories for context or to demonstrate a point but that’s it–it’s strictly to add additional information.  In fact, if you read the articles where my personal experiences are mentioned, I am not the hero; they’re relatively mundane experiences of a CIA Case Officer.  Secondly, I value my privacy.  I don’t want to be famous or an internet celebrity in either the watch or tactical community. That’s just not for me.  Additionally, being anonymous ironically allows me to be more authentic in my presentation of my watch collection and love of timepieces.  Posting expensive watches on social media can often accurately be interpreted as a “flex” or show-off and can quickly fall into “cringe” territory. Being anonymous allows me to show whatever I want without any of the added recognition.  What watch would you recommend for a woman in the field? “W.O.E. Mansplains What Watches Women Should Wear” is what I would call this article. Truth is, I am not qualified to really comment on this topic.  Check out Brynn Wallner who runs a platform called Dimepiece Co. if you are a woman interested in getting into watches.  She does a great job curating content specifically for women and is a disruptor in this industry. Homeland, not an accurate portrayal of female Case Officers (Photo Credit: HBO, Homeland) Traditionally there have been men’s and women's watches.  To simplify a complicated topic, men’s watches are generally larger and women’s smaller.  Recently there has been a movement to remove gender from watches and make them all unisex.  While we won’t take a position on this hyper-sensitive debate, we will say that there is no reason a woman couldn’t and shouldn’t wear a traditional men’s timepiece.  Mrs. W.O.E.'s current go-to timepiece is a Tudor Black Bay 58, one that many may say is a traditional men’s watch.  Likewise, some men appreciate and even prefer smaller timepieces that some may perceive as women’s watches.  More power to you. Wear whatever you want.  What is your grail watch? A “grail watch” is the ultimate watch for a collector, something that they would never sell if they were able to acquire it.  Like the “holy grail”, this watch is often unattainable, or incredibly unlikely to obtain. It is more of a fantasy than a realistic goal. Photo Credit: Tudor Collector, Ross Povey W.O.E.’s grail is a military-issued Tudor Submariner, specifically a South African military-issued Tudor Sub from the 1970s.  While I have no affinity for the South African Defence Force (especially from that time frame), I have spent much of my life living and working on the continent and would find the connection meaningful.  Pictured above is one of the few known watches, a 1974 South African Navy Issued Black Tudor Submariner 7016.  I want to do a full deep dive Dispatch article on this, if nothing else to build my knowledge base. Why do you not have a G-Shock in your collection? The Casio G-Shock is a great watch and if you are in a tactical or operational position, it’s hard to beat as a tool watch.  For deployed paramilitary officers or uniformed military personnel conducting direct action and kicking in doors it is a fantastic tool.  The same for Garmin, Suunto, Timex and the plethora of other digital pieces. There are some downsides, most notably the requirement for a battery, but they are cheap and relatively indestructible. Additionally, G-Shocks also have a cult following in the watch community and there are many collectible references and collaborations.  So why doesn’t W.O.E. have one in the toolbox? While it is ideal for military personnel, the Casio G-Shock is a clear “tell” for Americans to wear overseas.  For Case Officers, who mostly operate in capital cities while under cover (i.e. posing as something they aren’t) this watch can make one stick out as much as a gold Rolex Daytona. A decade ago I was posted overseas in a major African capital.  The conflicts in Iraq and Afghanistan were dying down, but the “Global War on Terror” was still in full swing and a priority for the USG.  Department of Defense personnel had flooded into Africa to conduct overt military assistance to host country nations.  One night I was out for drinks with an early local contact at a high-end hotel when a group of civilian-clothed USMIL personnel walked in. Tactical? (Photo Credit: Casio) My contact, who was not yet aware of my Agency affiliation, eyed the group as they took their seats at the bar and proudly said, “There are some of your spies, you can always spot American spies, they have beards and wear large plastic watches on the inside of their wrists.”  I don’t remember what watch I was wearing that night, but I do know it wasn’t a large black tactical watch.  It would have been something that supported my cover as an American (REDACTED). Navy SEALs conducting VBSS while wearing G-Shock, likely DW-6600 (Photo Credit: US Navy) We have detailed the role digital watches play in espionage and regardless of one’s horological interests or occupation, a cheap and reliable digital timepiece is a must in any collection.  My go-to is a Timex Ironman, which I use for PT and other water activities when I want to record specific times. Would you wear another unit’s unit watch? Does this qualify as stolen Valor? We have written extensively about unit watches and there are some cool references like the SAS Explorer II that sometimes show up for sale or auction.  While it is unfortunate that some operators choose to part with these meaningful timepieces, we also understand that life circumstances change, and the astronomical secondary market can become irresistible. Special Air Service Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570 (Photo Credit: Sotheby’s) Short answer is yes, I would wear another unit’s watch and I do not view this as stolen valor.  For example, if someone gave me the SAS Rolex Explorer II (I couldn’t afford or want to spend the asking price), I would wear it.  In fact, the watch ending up with a true collector who appreciates the history and meaning behind a unit watch is probably a good thing.  The caveat to all of this is that it all comes down to intention: if someone uses the watch to attempt to convince someone that they served in a specific unit when they did not, of course that is taboo.  But there are far easier and more effective forms of stolen valor than spending a small fortune on a collectable timepiece.  What are your opinions on smart watches? This is a fascinating topic and something I will dive into deeper in a future Dispatch, a lot to unpack here.  First, in general we are not against smart watches, in my post-government life I have worked in emerging technology and the benefits of “wearables” including smart watches are immense.  Even though they are contrary to much of what we put out at W.O.E., smart watches are great tools, providing immediate and actionable data to increase your health, productivity, and situational awareness. Apple Watch (Photo Credit: Apple) That said, for people in the business of espionage, smart watches and the internet of things (IoT) have profound counterintelligence implications and are not ideal.  For one, wireless devices are not permitted in SCIFs (sensitive compartmented information facility) so they are not even an option for most while at work.  Secondly, as previously documented, smart devices are certainly not a spy’s best friend. When wading through a Middle Eastern souk trying to detect and avoid hostile intelligence services, wearing a beacon with a microphone that tracks your every move, on your wrist or in your pocket, simply is not acceptable. Secret Australian government installation on the Strava heat map showing routes of staff movements logged in the app. (Photo Credit: Daily Mail / Strava) In late-2017, open-source fitness tracker data was used to reveal the location of sensitive military locations in countries including Syria, Niger, and Afghanistan. A reliable timepiece is a necessity to ensure you conduct your operational act (agent meeting) at the exact time and place without leaving behind a digital footprint that can be pieced together by a competent hostile intelligence service. Sometimes it’s best to do things the old-fashioned way. Again, this is a great topic and something we will flesh this out in more detail in a future Dispatch. Read More: CIA Officers And Apple Watches What is a modern MACV-SOG Seiko? As documented in the Dispatch: Vietnam MACV-SOG Seikos: Setting The Record Straight, “SOG Seikos” are one of the greatest historical examples of “Watches of Espionage.”  They are procured using black budget funds and issued to SOG operators as sterile and untraceable equipment. Seiko’s cult-like following combined with military historians’ fascination with SOG has made the MACV-SOG Seikos incredibly collectable (i.e. expensive).   While the prices of the MACV-SOG Seikos have recently skyrocketed to well over $1,000 if you can even find them, for those interested in purchasing a modern version, the SNK381K1 is as close as it gets. At 37mm, it is smaller than most modern watches, but throw it on a green nylon strap, add a tactical compass, and you can play the part. W.O.E.’s personal modern MACV-SOG, Seiko SNK381K1 If you really want to signal to others that you are a tactical watch bro, wear it on the inside of your wrist like John Stryker Meyer did in Vietnam. Like most Seikos, it is relatively affordable and you should be sub-$200 all in. Pretty cool watch.  Do you plan to restock straps, cases etc? Yes, all of our products are hand made in the US/UK so they take time and cannot be mass produced. We are working on some unique and innovative things for 2023 and will announce them in the newsletter.  We should have a large release of W.O.E. Travel Pouches in late January/early February and we are really excited about the leather straps later in February.  The next release of the W.O.E. Z.A. Straps is TBD.  Sign up for “Notify Me When Available” for anything that interests you. (HINT-HINT)  More to come! Thanks for the support. Read Next: The Connection Between Watches And Espionage This Dispatch has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

In preparation for the holidays, we provide the W.O.E. stamp of approval on the following products/companies/groups.   We have closed up “shop” for the year but will be back next year with leather straps, more W.O.E. Travel Pouches, a new coin and a few more exciting things in the works.  Please sign up for “Notify Me When Available” for anything that interests you. In the meantime, check out the following items as gifts for loved ones, friends or yourself. Watches: Arabic-Dial Seiko, SNKP21J1:  This has become the “W.O.E. hype watch.” In fact, it is attainable and can be purchased for a couple hundred dollars on Amazon or other online retailers. A great gift for a loved one. Tudor Ranger: 39mm simple field watch.  At approximately $3,000 depending on the configuration, this is a great affordable luxury tool watch.  Perfect if you are looking to splurge on a timepiece for a spouse, child or parent. CWC SBS DIVER ISSUE (QS120-DD): A great overall quartz tool watch with British Ministry of Defense heritage.  Available for £582.50. Wind Vintage: In the vintage watch world, Eric Wind is the OG.  Wind Vintage specializes in high-end timepieces (primarily watches before 1990 and above $15,000) and focuses on condition, condition, condition.  If you are looking to surprise W.O.E. with a Christmas present, please consider this Rolex “James Bond” / “Big Crown” Submariner reference 6538 with "Four-Line Dial.” The Grey NA.TO: TGN is a community of like-minded individuals who believe in using their tools.  Hosts Jason Heaton and James Stacey break down their love for adventure, their addiction to watches, and also discuss travel, diving, driving and gear.  A subscription to The Grey NA.TO includes a strap (grey, of course), stickers and access to additional content.  At $100 a year, a unique gift for someone who has everything. The Observer Collection:  Whisky Wallet.  Marine-turned-photographer/designer, Robert Spangle has some unique designs for everyday travel items.  The Whisky Wallet is a compact card wallet ideal in a dinner jacket. It owes much of its DNA to traditional Inrō containers and packs a slim expandable coin pocket. $200 Watchistry:  When it comes to Marine Nationale watches, Watchistry (literally) wrote the book.  He also has some great merchandise in his store, including the MN Enamel Mug. (Check out the books also) $19.00  Field Ethos Journal: The Everything Mug. It ain't cheap, but like most things in life, you get what you pay for.  “Your grandchildren will be drinking from it.” $150 Watch Straps:   When it comes to straps, we are the opposite of monogamous.  We are promiscuous.  In addition to our W.O.E. Z.A. Straps, W.O.E. will be releasing leather straps in 2023.  In the meantime, check out a few ones that we like to rock. Z.A. Straps: Beyond the W.O.E.-ZA Collaboration, ZA has a range of straps to check out. $50-$145 Zane's Handmade:  Handmade Horween leather straps crafted by a recent US Mil veteran.  $85-95 Soturi Design: Cordura Straps. Designed for living and built to last, the Victory strap is both rugged and refined. Inspired by Cordura’s military heritage, we chose this material as a nod to the fabric’s proven performance in many of the world’s toughest environments. $135 Saga Trading Co.-Peplor: Leather strap with raindrop camo pattern.  Strichtarn, or more commonly “raindrop camo” pattern, was adopted by East Germany in the mid- 1960s. Since then, it has seen use by Croatia, Czechoslovakia, Poland, South Africa, and Uzbekistan. $155 Art: Bad Art Nice Watch:  Commission a piece on your favorite watch.  Check out the one he did for the Jordanian Breitling. King Kennedy Rugs: We have no idea who runs this company, but his rugs are incredible. Check out these “Vintage Rolex Hand Woven Rugs” rugs from Afghanistan. $325  Prairie Fire Art Company, "Resistance" WWII OSS Jedburgh Art Print:  In 1944, the Jedburgh teams of the American OSS and the British SOE (including French officers) dropped into Nazi- occupied Europe to organize, train and lead into battle the resistance forces of France, the Netherlands and other European nations. This painting depicts an American Jedburgh officer meeting members of the French Resistance. The officer wears a Gallet Clamshell Chronograph - a popular choice with American aviators and special operations officers in Britain during the lead up to the invasion.  Ad Patina: The best in the game when it comes to vintage watch advertisements.  Prices vary. Justin Sowders: Want to commission a piece of horological art? Sowders is your guy. He’s developed a unique style that’s unlike anything else in the space. He’s done pieces that now hang in the halls of HODINKEE and Citizen HQ, and maybe above your fireplace next. Price on request.  Knives: Half Face Blades: Half Face Blades was founded by Andrew Arrabito, Navy SEAL (ret.), to meet the need for high-quality, “go-to” knives and axes – usable, personalized, functional, versatile tools that work for every person in every walk of life. Half Face Blades knives are designed with the distinction and ruggedness required for the work they are intended to do. Each knife is calculated to meet requirements gained by experience, by testing knives and axes, by using them over time at sea and in remote wildernesses. Brad Cavner signature series. $375 Emerson Commander: The ultimate utility knife, designed to go anywhere, anytime, and to get the job done, the Commander is the ultimate “all-rounder.” Whether you're on patrol, hunting that white-tailed buck or stripping wires to run electrical in the “she-shed,” the Commander does it all with ease.  $269.85 Dynamis Alliance - Winkler Knives: Razorback, a staple in W.O.E.'s EDC. Books- A Man & His Watch: Iconic Watches and Stories from the Men Who Wore Them, Matt Hranek:  Paul Newman wore his Rolex Daytona every single day for 35 years until his death in 2008. The iconic timepiece, probably the single most sought-after watch in the world, is now in the possession of his daughter Clea, who wears it every day in his memory. Franklin Roosevelt wore an elegant gold Tiffany watch, gifted to him by a friend on his birthday, to the famous Yalta Conference where he shook the hands of Joseph Stalin and Winston Churchill. JFK's Omega worn to his presidential inauguration, Ralph Lauren's watch purchased from Andy Warhol's personal collection, Sir Edmund Hillary's Rolex worn during the first-ever summit of Mt. Everest . . . these and many more compose the stories of the world's most coveted watches captured in A Man and His Watch. Matthew Hranek, a watch collector and NYC men's style fixture, has traveled the world conducting firsthand interviews and diving into exclusive collections to gather the never-before-told stories of 76 watches, completed with stunning original photography of every single piece.  $28.49 A Die Hard Christmas: A true story.  All John McClane wants for Christmas is to reunite with his estranged family. But when his wife’s office holiday party turns into a deadly hostage situation, he has to save her life before he can get home in time for Christmas!  The unconventional fan-favorite movie Die Hard is now an illustrated storybook- complete with machine guns, European terrorists, and a cop who’s forced to rely on all his cunning and skills (and the help of a fellow officer) to save the day. Based on the classic “Night Before Christmas” poem and filled with whimsical illustrations, this cleverly reimagined homage is destined to become a holiday classic.  Depth Charge, Jason Heaton: Julian “Tusker” Tusk, an American archaeologist, is excavating a shipwreck half a world from home when a research boat catches fire and sinks, killing an old friend. The tragedy sets in motion a dangerous quest for truth that pulls Tusker into a sinister plot spanning 75 years, from World War II Ceylon to modern day Sri Lanka. Along the way, he matches wits with a psychopathic mercenary, discovers a long lost ship with an explosive secret, and falls for a beautiful marine biologist who is at least as strong as he is. In the end, Tusker finds that the truth may lie at the bottom of the sea, with only one way back to the surface. Depth Charge is an old school thriller in the tradition of Fleming, Maclean, and Cussler, with an eye for detail, cunning villains, and narrow escapes. The story is full of wartime secrets, the intersection of religion and politics, and the arcane world of deep technical diving. It takes readers from the smoky halls of 1940s London to the volatile, seductive heat of Sri Lanka and sixty fathoms under the Indian Ocean. Try not to hold your breath.  $14.39 Watch Annual:  A book for watch lovers, by watch lovers. A reflection of 2022 in watches; celebrating the best of design and complication — and a reference for years to come.  An honor for W.O.E. to be featured in the 2022 Watch Annual.  Our submission was the Tudor Pelagos 39, in my opinion the best luxury tool watch from this year.  £29.99 Selling the Crown: The Secret History of Marketing Rolex, Brendan Cunningham, PHD: During World War II, a new front opened in the battle between the Axis and Allied powers: propaganda. Little-known archival records reveal that in the postwar period, British veterans of covert warfare applied their experiences in a new arena: advertising. This is the inside story of those who marketed Rolex, one of the most valuable and secretive brands in world history. The company's reputation for luxury and exclusivity was built, in part, using the strategies and tactics that were sharpened through secretive global conflict. Vickers Guide: The firearms and content in Vickers Guide have been sourced and curated by Larry Vickers – twenty year U.S. Army Special Operations veteran and combat marksmanship instructor, 1911 custom builder, and firearms industry consultant.  Photography and publishing by James Rupley, who also happens to have taken most of the professional shots on Watches of Espionage. Starting at $98.00 Skunk Works: A Personal Memoir of My Years at Lockheed: You may have heard about the recent debut of the B-21 Raider. That stealth bomber is made by Northrop Grumman, they lost the contract to competitor Lockheed, which developed planes like the SR-71 and plenty more that only a few know about. Skunkworks is the secretive division of Lockheed that works on developing aircraft one step ahead of everyone else. This book is the best bit of insight on what happens inside Skunkworks. It’s a quick and fun read. Starting at $5.  Terminal List Series, Jack Carr: Applying the experience and emotions from real-world combat to the pages of his novels, Jack Carr brings unprecedented levels of authenticity to the political thriller, taking readers on a behind the scenes journey into the mind of a modern-day special operations soldier, dispensing an ancient form of justice in today’s modern geopolitical landscape. Some great watch content also! First Casualty: The Untold Story of the CIA Mission to Avenge 9/11, Toby Harnden: America is reeling; Al-Qaeda has struck, and thousands are dead. The country scrambles to respond, but the Pentagon has no plan for Afghanistan - where Osama bin Laden masterminded the attack and is protected by the Taliban. Instead, the CIA steps forward to spearhead the war. Eight CIA officers are dropped into the mountains of Northern Afghanistan on October 17, 2001. They are Team Alpha, an eclectic band of linguists, tribal experts, and elite warriors: the first Americans to operate inside Taliban territory. Their covert mission is to track down Al-Qaeda and stop the terrorists from infiltrating the United States again. The Main Enemy: The Inside Story of the CIA's Final Showdown with the KGB: A landmark collaboration between a thirty-year veteran of the CIA and a Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist, The Main Enemy is the dramatic inside story of the CIA-KGB spy wars, told through the actions of the men who fought them. Based on hundreds of interviews with operatives from both sides, The Main Enemy puts us inside the heads of CIA officers as they dodge surveillance and walk into violent ambushes in Moscow. This is the story of the generation of spies who came of age in the shadow of the Cuban missile crisis and rose through the ranks to run the CIA and KGB in the last days of the Cold War. The clandestine operations they masterminded took them from the sewers of Moscow to the back streets of Baghdad, from Cairo and Havana to Prague and Berlin, but the action centers on Washington, starting in the infamous "Year of the Spy"--when, one by one, the CIA’s agents in Moscow began to be killed, up through to the very last man. Hot Sauce:  Tabasco: Tabasco is an American brand of hot sauce made from vinegar, tabasco peppers (Capsicum frutescens var. tabasco), and salt. It is produced by McIlhenny Company of Avery Island in south Louisiana, having been created over 150 years ago by Edmund McIlhenny. Priceless. *W.O.E. has received no financial compensation for the above products and these are NOT/NOT sponsored.  Please do your own research before making any purchases.

W.O.E. Single Pass Z.A. Straps. At Watches of Espionage, our product development model is to partner with true professionals –masters of their craft– to develop distinct and highly functional products that honor our community and our core belief that you should “use your tools.”

by Cole Pennington A watch is just a watch–until we add meaning to it. Open up the Rand McNally Encyclopedia of Military Aircraft, turn to the section on American warbirds and you’ll notice one plane is broken out under the heading “The P-51 Mustang: Perhaps the greatest fighter of them all”. The use of a superlative is a tricky claim to make when the pages are filled with the Mustang’s capable contemporaries like the Supermarine Spitfire, the Mitsubishi A6M5 Zero, and the P-47 Thunderbolt. But if you grew up in the ‘80s or ‘90s, you knew that this book was the authority on military aircraft. If Rand McNally said it was the greatest fighter of them all, then it was. That one encyclopedia entry set the stage for a lifelong admiration of the P-51D. The plane came to represent more than just an exceptional piece of engineering; instead it became a symbol for the unbreakable American spirit and strength in the face of adversity. My fascination was bolstered by watching movies like Saving Private Ryan and The Thin Red Line and seeing the Mustang come through when it’s needed most. We often project these ideological values onto physical objects, I’m certainly guilty of it. In fact, the last thing James Kindelberger and Edgar Schmued were thinking about when they brought the Mustang to life was greatness. The plane was an answer to a proposal made by the British Purchasing Commission. It was a pragmatic solution to answer the growing needs of wartime. Like most mechanical objects I’ve grown to admire, it was born out of a need to get something done. It’s less art, and more tool. Ahead of a big move to another continent, my girlfriend arranged a flight on the legendary warbird to punctuate our time in America as we prepared to move to Europe. After all these years, I finally got to experience another dimension of the Mustang: the aerial capabilities that established its dominance during WWII. Suddenly it wasn’t all ethereal and philosophical. Six G’s makes you forget about all that stuff and focus on just keeping your head on straight. Man O'War, the P-51D I flew on, was first shipped to England during WWII but didn’t see any combat time. Later it found a home with the New Jersey National Guard. Today it rips through the skies of Palm Springs, CA, inspiring both those in the back seat and on the ground. Adding an emotional layer to an inanimate physical object isn’t just something that happens with planes, of course. On a much smaller scale, it happens with watches, too. For the Mustang ride, there was only one watch that made sense to wear, and it wasn’t a pairing I came up with. The legendary pilot Chuck Yeager started working with Rolex in 1946, but it was in the ‘80s that an advertisement featuring Yeager in front of a P-51D Mustang, wearing a GMT-Master II on his wrist was first published. That day, flying in the Mustang with my GMT-Master II on my own wrist, I finally figured out why both the Mustang and the Rolex had become ideological symbols of something much bigger and more powerful than the actual tools they are. There’s nothing greater than being inspired and reminded of what we’re capable of. We need heroes and legends to do that. Stories of this nature are the oldest form of currency. And sometimes it takes a watch or a plane to serve as a reminder of how much human ingenuity and perseverance we have within us. That’s what it’s really about.

In this week's Dispatch, we continue our exploration of the massive uptick in watch-related crime and discuss traveling with watches.  Africa Watch Loadout- Traveling with Watches See Part I, Criminal Rolex Gangs and Traveling with Watches In early 2022 I planned a return trip to Africa–a continent where I’ve spent much of my life and a place where I feel at home. Like most things in the life of a former CIA Case Officer, it was to be part pleasure, part work: a mix of business meetings, reconnecting with old friends and some time on safari in the bush. I planned to spend most of the trip in rural areas that were deemed safe by most standards, but would travel through Johannesburg and Nairobi–two cities notorious for petty crime that can sometimes turn violent.  My view is that a relationship can be developed with seemingly inanimate objects through shared experience, and this particularly applies to watches. It wasn’t a question of if I would bring a watch, but which watches I was going to bring. This might seem risky because “Africa is dangerous.”  Despite the ignorance of generalizing a continent of 54 diverse countries, there is some truth to this statement. As we explored in Part I, watch-related crime has skyrocketed globally over the past few years and traveling anywhere with a luxury watch requires certain considerations. That said, I believe many parts of Africa are safer for watch aficionados than London, New York or Paris. Decades from now when I’m telling my grandchildren stories about my watch collection, I would rather tell them that their grandfather’s watch was stolen at a bar in Maputo instead of admitting that the watch sat in a safe for 30 years and remains in pristine condition. Watches are tools. I am willing to risk the potential loss or damage to use them for their intended purpose. W.O.E.’s Personal Rolex GMT 16710, Photo James Rupley Rolex GMT- The Case Officer’s Watch: Had it been 2019, I would have brought my Rolex GMT-Master II, an early 2000s black and red “Coke” ref 16710. For years, I have said that the Rolex GMT, any reference,  is the ultimate CIA Case Officer’s watch– a classy and refined tool that signals to others you are a man of culture, yet don’t mind getting your hands dirty. The ideal Case Officer has been described as a “Ph.D. that can win a bar fight,” and I have always envisioned this persona wearing a Rolex GMT.  (Full disclosure, I don't have a Ph.D, and during my last bar fight–which was more than a few years ago–I was likely wearing a Breitling.) When hopping time zones, the quick-change date and GMT functionality are useful for confirming the time back home, and a simple wrist check is easier than pulling out a phone. The watch also captures the nostalgia of the romanticized vision of the Rolex GMT, originally developed in the 1950s for commercial Pan Am pilots. While all my watches are insured, I still questioned the wisdom of traveling to Africa with a watch worth significantly over $10,000 and engineered by one of the world’s most well-known brands, Montres Rolex SA. I’ve heard that one of the tests for Rolex models is that all designs must be recognizable from 20 feet away. While I am not privy to Rolex internal company practices, this feature seems to be accurate in the real world. A semi-trained eye can recognize a Rolex from across the room in a dimly lit bar, and thanks to social media (See Part I), in 2022, semi-trained eyes are all over the place. A criminal call out scanning the arrivals hall at Nairobi Jomo Kenyatta International Airport could do the same, immediately pegging the Rolex wearer as a potential target.  Sure, in an emergency, I could potentially trade the Rolex for a plane ticket, ride to the airport or facilitate a border crossing, but at a certain point the watch is more likely to get you in a bad situation than out of one.  It is a liability, not an asset.  The Rolex was out. Affordable Watches: The logical decision–the “school solution”-- was to travel with one watch, something that would not draw attention and be durable enough to make it through any expected or unexpected adventure. It needed to be waterproof to a certain extent so that I would not have to take it off for a dip in the ocean or hotel pool, something that I could keep on my body at all times. An automatic movement mitigated the possibility of battery failure–something that always seems to happen at the worst time, i.e. day 2 of a 3 week trip. It had to be replaceable, from both a monetary standpoint but also from a sentimental point of view. Insurance solved the former, but the latter ruled out some watches that could not be replaced, such as a Jordanian Breitling Aerospace–a gift from the King of Jordan. Affordable Seiko, Photo James Rupley Something like a sub-$500 Seiko 5 Sports would satisfy these requirements and provide a great travel companion for any scenario. That said, I wanted to step it up a notch and bring a couple of unique pieces for my journey.  The Decision: I posted the following picture on Instagram @watchesofespionage and solicited W.O.E.’s (then) 60,000 followers for advice. 462 comments contained everything from “Bring the Rolex” to “Leave them at home and wear a Casio.” These comments were indicative of the scenario: the correct answer is, “It depends.” In reality, I had already returned from Africa when I posted this pic. If you think a former Spook turned watch influencer posts his travel plans in advance, you’re smoking crack. The Load Out:   Ultimately, I decided to travel with two watches, one “formal” watch that could be worn with a suit and one “informal” watch for adventures in the bush– something perishable and under $1,000. Tudor Black Bay 58 in its element; sundowners in the bush, Botswana. Black Bay 58:  As a big proponent of Tudor, I believe The Shield produces the best modern luxury tool watches. I quickly decided that the Black Bay 58 (BB58) would make a great travel companion. It was in. The watch had traveled with me to a few countries but was still relatively new and I had no real emotional ties to it. A classic steel sports watch, it was tough and had many of the benefits of a Rolex but without any of the drawbacks, and could be easily replaced for under retail price if needed. The BB58 is a relatively simple watch and an homage to the Tudor Submariners of the 1960s, which had been worn by Special Operations units both in the United States and abroad. Two tools, CWC SBS and Toyota Landcruiser. CWC SBS: I had recently acquired a Cabot Watch Company (CWC) SBS with a Tritium Dial from the late 1990s. The SBS was originally developed for the British Special Boat Service (SBS) in the late 1980s and is still issued to select British units today.  The watch was designed to military specifications, with a quartz movement and day/date feature. As a bonus, unless you are a “watch-guy,” the CWC is unremarkable and unlikely to stand out in a local market or hotel lobby.  It was unnecessary to bring two watches on the trip but they complemented each other well. I found myself wearing the (more affordable) CWC and the day/date feature was generally useful for everything from filling out customs forms to reminding myself the day of the week in the time warp that is African bush. The CWC has fixed spring bars, so I brought several straps along and changed them out frequently and with ease. The Tudor–one of my favorite watches– paired nicely with the CWC, but with no date or GMT feature, it was less practical as a travel watch.  Original Brodinkee Meme making fun of W.O.E. I can already visualize the “first world problem” @Brodinkee memes about the difficulty concerning the decision of what luxury watches to bring to the developing world. But for someone who is truly passionate about timepieces as a hobby, this is what collecting is all about. Shared experiences with these inanimate objects are what brings them to life. When I left for Africa, these pieces had little to no sentimental value.   But now, as I reflect on these tools, I remember wiping the dust off the crystal of the CWC as I scanned the sky for the Cessna Caravan that was late to the remote dirt airstrip, standing on the edge of Victoria Falls with mist drenching the Tudor dive watch and striking up a conversation at the hotel bar with a former British military officer that started with “Is that a CWC?” I never felt unsafe or targeted for wearing a watch, and in hindsight, I could have brought my Rolex GMT; it would not have been an issue. In fact, traveling to parts of Africa with a luxury watch is likely safer than walking the streets of London, Miami or Barcelona. That said, there were a couple of times that I pulled down my sleeve to cover the watch, and once or twice, I took it off and put it in my front right pocket with my passport and wallet.  Overall, the trip was a success and my watch choices proved to be perfect.  The watches are tools, like my Emerson knife, Swarovski binoculars, or Palladium boots. They are an extension of my persona, and had one been stolen, misplaced or damaged, I would have recovered. The risk/reward balance was there.  I did find myself needing a better travel case, which ultimately resulted in the creation of the W.O.E. Travel Pouch. A few other necessities for travel to Africa. Looking back at my selection, I would have appreciated having a GMT feature on either the Tudor or CWC.  Tudor makes a Black Bay Pro that would have satisfied this requirement and there are a number of sub-$1,000 GMTs on the market, including a new Seiko 5 Sports GMT for $475. I guess it's time to buy another watch.   -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our free weekly newsletter for further updates HERE.    Read Part I, Criminal Rolex Gangs and Traveling with Watches This newsletter has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

By Cole Pennington For this edition of the W.O.E. Dispatch, Cole takes us to Pyongyang, the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (DPRK). Kim Il-Sung wore a gold Omega Constellation (Photo Credit: Britannica) Product of the North Korean Politburo: The Kim Il-Sung Omega Even if it were a possibility, I would not visit North Korea again today. I knew back in 2014 that it was most likely my first and last visit. I left having learned a powerful lesson: In every country, people are people, and governments are governments. One does not necessarily represent the other. For two weeks I traveled around the hermit nation in search of a North Korean-produced Moranbong watch, and during my travels I came across many wonderful folks just like you and me – but the shadow the Kim regime casts on the North Korean layperson can skew our perception of the entire country. Much like the rest of the world, there are good people and bad people – and a particularly bad government – in North Korea.   And there’s a series of watches that perfectly encapsulates the complexities of the Hermit Kingdom – it’s the range of Omegas that the country’s founder, Kim Il-Sung, had produced in the late ‘70s bearing his signature on the dial. There are a number of examples, a Constellation ref. 166.0248, and a Seamaster that both feature Kim Il-Sung’s name in red Hangul characters at 12 or 6 o’clock positions. An Omega extract appearing on an enthusiast forum puts the production date of one known example at 1978: Extract from the Omega Archives (Photo Credit: Omega Forums/eBay) The watches served as gifts both internally and externally. High ranking North Korean officials were recognized and presented with the watches, as well as visiting foreign state officials. Like we’ve discussed here at W.O.E. before, watches, in the political context, are used as tools to build alliances and gain trust just as much as they are used as tools to tell time.   Former Director of CIA and Secretary of State Mike Pompeo visited North Korea several times (Photo Credit: State Department)  I’ve never actually seen one of these watches in person. The closest I came was in the hotel bar at the infamous Koryo Hotel when I was actually searching for another watch, a Moranbong. I wasn’t expecting to hear about the Omega, but an encounter led to a primary source confirming that these watches were indeed awarded for service to the regime. Coupled with an Omega extract dating the watch to 1978, it’s enough to piece together the significance of the watch. In a HODINKEE Magazine piece earlier this year I chronicled the search for the Moranbong that ended up demystifying the origins of the Kim Il-Sung Omega. From the piece: Cole wearing an Omega Seamaster ref. 2531.80.00 in Pyongyang, North Korea  (Photo Credit: Cole Pennington, 2014) One of the last stops on the tour of North Korea was Koryo Hotel Lobby Bar. The Koryo Hotel is a popular spot for foregin tourists to stay while in Pyongyang, and since the number of places that foreigners are cleared to travel to is so limited, the Koryo Hotel acts as a funnel for all Westerners. And with the Westerners, of course, come their minders. King’s friend sat down at our table. I never got his name, but he had just chaperoned a group of European tourists to the bar and was grabbing a quick drink and catching up with his minder buddy. After a brief introduction, King asked his buddy if he could find a Moranbong watch. He paused, built up the tension, and then said “no.” It’s been almost a decade, but I remember the conversation going something like this: “But –” he said with a smile, “I do have something you might be interested in. It’s a watch, but it’s not a Moranbong. It was given to my father as a gift, and he passed it on to me.” “So what is it?” I asked. “An Omega. And it was given to my father by the Supreme Leader. It’s one of my most prized possessions. It has the Supreme Leader’s signature on the dial.” Cole in Moranbong Park, Pyongyang. (Photo Credit: Cole Pennington, 2014) Like their banking system, Swiss diplomacy – and watchmaking – work in mysterious ways. “Want to buy it?” He laughed as he was asking me. I couldn’t tell if he was kidding. I wouldn’t buy it anyway, but hearing about the Omega was enough. I had read about Omega Constellations made for Kim Il-sung, and this anecdote was enough to confirm their backstory I learned about online. I didn’t find the Moranbong, but I did find a little nugget of knowledge that satisfied my horological curiosity.  Propaganda is all around the Hermit Kingdom. It takes the place of advertising in the Western World, except here it’s often selling the North Korean idea of Juche, or extreme self-reliance.  (Photo Credit: Cole Pennington, 2014) What I find most fascinating about the watch actually has nothing to do with the watch itself–it has to do with the strange space it occupies inside the tension of Western conspicuous consumption and the Marxist–Leninist foundations of Juche, the state ideology of North Korea. On the streets of Pyongyang you’ll find Audis and Hummers driving on roads filled with state-produced billboards decrying capitalism. The existence of an Omega produced for high-ranking officials underscores the massive divide between those directly tied to the regime and profiting greatly from the regime’s illicit activities and the laypeople, who most of the time don’t wear a watch, but when they do, it’s a Seiko or Chinese-produced quartz piece.  The nation’s current ruler, Kim Jong-Un, has demonstrated a taste for luxury timepieces, a tradition that goes back to his grandfather’s state-sponsored Omegas. Swiss educated Kim Jong-un wears a IWC Portofino Automatic, a topic for a future W.O.E. Dispatch (Photo Credit Reuters)  A Note From W.O.E.:  North Korean Intelligence Services represent a significant counterintelligence and even physical threat to its adversaries. While it is tempting to write off the capabilities of the “hermit kingdom,” DPRK has demonstrated it has a long arm, most notably with the assassination of the dear leaders half-brother, Kim Jong-nam using nerve agent VX at Kuala Lumpur International Airport in February 2013. While scores of Americans and Europeans have traveled to and successfully returned from visits to North Korea, a cultural excursion to Pyongyang is not without risk. In January 2016, Otto Warmbier, a student at the University of Virginia was arrested for “subversion” after reportedly attempting to remove a propaganda poster at his hotel. After a series of negotiations, Warmbier was released to the United States in a comatose state June 2017 and ultimately succumbed to what is reported to have been botulism developed during his captivity. Further Reading: Becoming Kim Jong Un: A Former CIA Officer's Insights into North Korea's Enigmatic Young Dictator The Great Successor: The Divinely Perfect Destiny of Brilliant Comrade Kim Jong Un