We asked former senior Case Officer, J.R. Seeger to write a piece on advice for a young Case Officer/Intelligence Officer for shopping for a watch.  Spoiler alert: it is not a Rolex. CIA Case Officer: The Ideal Timepiece by J.R. Seeger When I joined the CIA in the 1980s, my supervisors all served in Southeast Asia during the ‘60s and ’70s. Almost all men and they wore what might have been considered a “headquarters uniform:” short sleeved white or blue oxford shirts, ties always loose at the throat, and khaki pants.  On one wrist was a gold chain known as a baht chain because each link was of a certain value in the Thai currency.  On the other wrist was a Rolex watch.  Usually, the watches were Rolex GMT Masters or Rolex Datejust watches. No Rolex or other Mil-Spec watches for them. They did not need to pretend to be commandos. They were commandos.  Vintage Rolex sign, Tawila District in Aden, Yemen (Photo Credit: Unknown) I had just left the Army and had a Bulova watch given to me by my mother when I graduated from high school over a dozen years earlier.  By the early 1980s, a Rolex – any Rolex – was more than a two month’s salary and I wasn’t about to spend that sort of money on a tool when my Bulova still worked well and my backup watch, a Casio digital watch, was under $50. The Swiss tool watch train had left the station and I was still on the platform. I have previously written about my experience with watches as tools in the Afghan war-zone. Black acrylic watches, accurate quartz watches, were my choice. Twenty years later, when we talk about watches for the field, we are looking at a world where Case Officers (C/Os) are less likely to be in forward operating bases in warzones. They are more likely to work in traditional postings in major cities around the world. It is a different environment and it calls for a different sort of kit. When we are talking about “watches for the field,” we are not using the term in the same way that most watch companies might. After all, the CIA Case Officer in the field is going to face challenges that are not consistent with a mountain climber, a yacht racer, a member of the armed forces, or a first responder (i.e. police officer, fire fighter, or EMT). That doesn’t mean that a “field watch” used by one of these avocations and professions won’t work with Case Officer tradecraft.  It just means that there are other, different requirements.   Seeger and General Dostum on the night of insertion in Afghanistan, 16 October 2001, Casio F-91W on Seeger’s wrist. (Photo Credit: Seeger) So, what are the basic requirements for a CIA field watch?   The watch must be reliable.  That means it must work all the time, every time; The watch must be easy to read at a glance; The watch must be readable in the dark either through luminous hands or a LED backlight; The watch must be rugged enough to withstand dust, water, and shock. Arabic Seiko (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Here is where the requirements shift when shopping for a C/O: The watch must be low profile. A C/O walking on the streets with an expensive Swiss or Japanese watch is a target for criminals and, just as important, easy to spot by surveillance. Expensive and/or out of place items – sports cars, watches, shoes, clothes, a bag – make it easy for surveillance to spot their target and keep on their target.  On the street, a C/O must disappear into the crowd.  Just as a fine European sports car is not appropriate for a C/O in the field, a large, polished dive watch on a steel bracelet stands out and gives surveillance another point of reference when they are tracking a C/O; As a corollary to the above point, the watch must be consistent with the C/O’s cover. A C/O must be able to transition quickly from cover duty to clandestine work. While there may be time to go home and change, it isn’t as if the C/O on the street can assume an entirely different persona (an outfit more suited to a Special Operations night raid for example). Therefore, a large PVD or black acrylic watch that can withstand over 20 ATMs underwater and has tritium luminous markers is unlikely to be a good choice unless the C/O’s cover supports that sort of watch; The watch must not be a “connected” watch. If your watch helps you connect to the outside world through Bluetooth or directly through a wireless signal of any sort, it also means your watch can be used by an adversary to track you.  A few years ago, US military force protection studies demonstrated that fitness tracker smart watches could be used by an adversary to determine precisely where an individual serviceman was and, then by extension, where his unit was in the field. Smart watches are off limits to case officers because case officers never want to help adversaries track them. A map of activity in Djibouti.  “A map of fitness-tracker data may have compromised top-secret US military bases around the world” (Source: Business Insider) What are the options for a C/O who doesn’t have a large, personal budget but needs a watch that fits in all the parts of his/her life? Among my colleagues, I am a notorious cheapskate, so I’m offering the following choices for under $1000.  Please note:  We have experience with most if not all of these watches, but none of the companies involved have any commercial links to W.O.E.  At the lowest end of the spectrum are Casio, Timex and Seiko watches. These companies all make inexpensive, rugged watches. Some of the higher end Casio G-shocks and Timex Ironman watches are monsters on the wrist and probably not ideal for a C/O.  That said, a 5610 Solar G-shock, a Timex Expedition or even the smaller Ironman watches, or any selection from the Seiko 5 collection are all good choices for well under $200.  There may have been a time when a black acrylic watch was not acceptable for daily business wear.  That time is long passed; (Photo Credit: James Rupley) At the mid-range ($200-600), the choices expand exponentially. There are American Assembled watches, European and Japanese models that all work in this category.  Most are “dress tool” watches that have over 10ATM or more of water resistance, sapphire crystals and reliable movements.  At this price point, it is possible to find US firms such as Vaer, Shinola, Sangin or Cincinnati Watch company, Japanese firms Seiko, Orient, Citizen or Bulova, and Swiss firms like Davosa and Tissot.  Other European watch companies including the French firm Wolbrook and the German firm LACO also make watches that fit the requirements. All pass the C/O test of looking like a watch a “normal” person might wear but still provide reliability, ruggedness and good visibility during night work; Sangin Overlord and W.O.E. numbered coin (J.R. Seeger) When you approach $1000, the c/o crosses the threshold from tool to luxury tool watch. Formerly a US company and now part of the Swatch Group, Hamilton Khaki line– especially when paired with a leather strap or steel bracelet are hard to beat for the blend of day work wear and night street operations.  Seiko has their own options with the Seiko Alpinist and other sport watches in the Prospex line.  And, once again Tissot watches at this price range answer all of the requirements. Seiko Alpinist (Seiko) Conclusion:  There are dozens of other watches out there that a C/O can use in the field. Most Case Officers answer direct questions with two words: It depends. That is because every human is different and what is ideal for one person is useless for another. Some will want quartz watches for the “set it and forget it” nature of the watch.  Others will want a mechanical watch that requires slightly more care in setting the time but does not rely on a battery. C/O work is not about gunfights, explosions, or car chases (leave that image for our favorite thrillers), but that doesn’t mean a case officer’s watch isn’t an essential piece of kit. Time is everything for a Case Officer and a watch is what keeps a C/O on time. Read Next: Ask Watches Of Espionage Anything  J.R. Seeger's personal watch collection and memorabilia. J.R. Seeger served as a paratrooper in the 82nd Airborne and as a CIA officer for a total of 27 years of federal service. He served 17 years in multiple field assignments focused on counterterrorism, counterintelligence and irregular warfare.  During his final, 3-year assignment in CIA Headquarters, he first served as a chief of operations for a geographic division in the Directorate of Operations and then served as a deputy director and deputy chief of the CIA Counterterrorism Center.  Seeger led multiple, small unit teams during his service, including leading one of the CIA teams that infiltrated into Afghanistan after 9/11. Since his retirement, J.R. has written articles and book reviews in the CIA professional journal “Studies in Intelligence” and the T.E. Lawrence Society newsletter. His seven-part MIKE4 series is about a family who have served in the special operations and intelligence community from World War II to the present. This newsletter has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

From Grenada to Ground Zero With Army Ranger Jose Gordon: Anti-aircraft rounds pierced the skin of the aircraft from bottom to top, their trajectory indicated by the occasional laser-like tracer. As the MC-130 Combat Talon of the Air Force’s 1st Special Operations Wing settled into its final approach, Ranger Private Jose Gordon ambled to his feet,

We get a lot of questions about “everyday carry,” commonly known as “EDC.” So in light of these requests, we want to provide some insight into our typical EDC and what I carried as a CIA Case Officer (C/O) in Africa and the Middle East. A timepiece is a crucial and often overlooked

Keeping your watches and tools organized is important and having a central location in your house for your wallet, keys, watch and other tools is crucial.  So we designed our own W.O.E. Everyday Carry (EDC) Valet for at-home use or while on the move.  Each order includes a W.O.E. Surreptitious Beverage Entry Tool (S-BET), aka a challenge coin bottle opener.

Chris Costa is the Executive Director of the International Spy Museum and a 34-year veteran intelligence officer, with extensive experience working in counterintelligence, human intelligence and with special operations forces (SOF).  Chris has worked in numerous operational positions throughout the globe and was the first civilian squadron Deputy Director at the Naval Special Warfare Development Group, and the Special Assistant to the President & Senior Director for Counterterrorism at the National Security Council.  The one common thread throughout his career is the presence of a Rolex Submariner on his wrist. A Tale of Two Watches  By Christopher P. Costa I came from humble roots.  My mother raised me and my two siblings alone as a single parent after my dad passed away far too young. I was always into watches, but it was my younger brother who caringly kept my father’s watches and much later in life gave them to my two sons at special milestones in their lives; he continued this tradition by gifting watches to our grandsons.  The idea of me or my siblings having a Rolex of our own was far-fetched until much later in our lives. I spent most of my career as a U.S. Army intelligence officer.  After the Panama invasion and then the first Gulf War, I thought maybe I could afford to buy a Rolex Submariner; I wanted something meaningful to leave for one of my boys.  Like many soldiers, I saw early on in my army career the untimely service-related deaths of troops, way more often than I like to talk about.  In one of my first assignments, I dealt with the tragic aftermath of the Gander, Newfoundland plane crash that killed 248 soldiers.  Two of the fallen troops who perished in the crash were from my rifle platoon as part of the 101st Airborne Division.  This disaster was an early reminder in my career that life was precious and fleeting.  December 12, 1985, Arrow Air Flight 1285 crashed during take-off in Gander, Newfoundland. The chartered flight was transporting 248 soldiers from the 101st Airborne back to their base at Fort Campbell, Kentucky, ending a six-month peace-keeping mission in Sinai, Egypt. (Photo Credit: DOD) After returning home from the first Gulf War, my wife ended up getting me the Rolex Submariner that I had always wanted, and I wore it for the rest of my intelligence career, ever-mindful of its deeper meaning.  I wore it for decades– during training to be a Case Officer; during hurried meetings in cars with sources; in remote villages, cities, and safehouses.  I wore it during surveillance and countersurveillance.  I wore it in Afghanistan, Iraq, and the Horn of Africa.  I even wore that Rolex when I briefed the President on terrorism and hostages at the White House.  I often quipped to my sons that if my Rolex Submariner could talk, many of the stories it could tell would be classified.  It was a critical piece of my gear and part of my clandestine work.  Costa (L) serving as Special Assistant to the President & Senior Director for Counterterrorism at the National Security Council. (Photo Credit: White House) Case Officers carefully, even obsessively, focus on their operational time windows for meetings with their sources.  Precision is important in both clandestine work and in special operations.  So is operational adaptation, when necessary. I sheepishly smile when I think of an improvisation featuring that Rolex Submariner during an important meeting that I had with an influential Afghan tribal leader.  The ambassador, a general officer, senior intelligence officers – and even the president of that country – were all anxious to hear the results of that particular meeting, which was very much choreographed to achieve our objectives, namely to change the malign behavior of a tribe and its fighters.  I was frustrated and weary of the lengthy, lecturing tone of the tribal chieftain during my excruciating meeting with him, so along with a little unrehearsed drama, I tersely cut the chieftain off in mid-sentence.  I told him that I will see him thirty days from that very moment, and, somewhat theatrically, I tapped my Rolex and told him the exact time I expected him back to see me.  He protested that al-Qaeda would kill him if he came back.  I told him that was not my problem.  No one aware of that meeting believed this warlord would be back thirty days from the moment that I registered the time out loud by glancing at my Rolex.  Surprisingly, the tribal chief came back thirty days later at the exact time I had directed, then he returned again – and again. During another combat deployment, I woke up in the middle of the night with pangs of anxiousness, something I suspect is universal among people operating in combat zones.  I worried that an improvised roadside explosive and a fiery ambush would destroy my watch and my son would never get it.  In the aftermath of a particularly tough night in a combat zone, where a lethal ambush had taken place, I contemplated taking the watch off and leaving it behind at a forward operating base. I was going out again to the same village where the attack had taken place the night before, and I thought it was prudent to leave the watch behind, having a premonition of bad things ahead.  In the end, I just decided to wear the watch anyway.  I was once again fortunate and incredibly grateful to get through another deployment.  After all those years, that Rolex made it, and in good time, it will be passed on to my oldest son with a few tales attached to it. As it turned out, my younger brother turned his passion for watches into a successful professional career at Tourneau Watch Company and Rolex. He traveled across the United States as well as internationally to Switzerland, at the request of manufacturers looking to expand their market share, and was a brand ambassador for Breitling.  My brother loved watches – and people – and his unflinching optimism for life is more a parable of his character perhaps, rather than a tale about a second Rolex. Coming up on my 60th birthday I really wanted another watch, albeit I was self-conscious that perhaps one Rolex was enough for me.  But I really wanted a second watch so that I could leave it to my youngest son someday.  My brother – always selfless – engineered a conspiracy with my wife and his watch store colleagues for a 60th birthday surprise.  So, my wife bought me a Rolex GMT-Master II, and my whole family chipped in to get me a very nice watch winder.  I was serenely at peace knowing that I could someday leave a Rolex for each of my sons.    Still, I was a little regretful that the GMT-Master would not be on my wrist during any clandestine meetings, in combat zones, nor with any tribal leaders.  My GMT-Master would never have the history of that first watch.  Or so I thought. Just about a year to the day that my brother and wife arranged to get me that Rolex GMT-Master, fulfilling my plan of being able to pass the watch on to my second son, my brother died unexpectedly. Through my personal grieving, I realized yet another gift my brother gave me.  The GMT-Master does not need to be on my wrist for clandestine work; this second watch is my brother’s legacy, it’s part of our family story now – our lore – that will get told and passed on.  My brother never had his own Rolex, or his own children; he was simply a loving brother, son, friend, uncle and a treasured colleague for those loyal co-workers that sold watches alongside him in Boston.  He was satisfied with being happy for others.  So, every morning that I put on that watch, it’s a treasured reminder of my brother’s selflessness and the precious time he shared with us.    READ NEXT: CIA Analysis Of Foreign Leaders’ Timepieces Colonel Costa is the Executive Director of the International Spy Museum, and a 34-year veteran of the Department of Defense. Previously, he served 25 years in the United States Army working in counterintelligence, human intelligence and with special operations forces (SOF) in Central America, Europe, and throughout the Middle East. He ran a wide range of intelligence and special operations in Panama, Bosnia, the first and second Iraq wars, and Afghanistan. Costa earned two Bronze stars for sensitive human intelligence work in Afghanistan. Later assigned to the Naval Special Warfare Development Group, he served as the first civilian squadron Deputy Director. In 2013, Costa was inducted into the United States Special Operations Commando Hall of Honor for lifetime service to US Special Operations. Most recently, he served as the Special Assistant to the President & Senior Director for Counterterrorism at the National Security Council.  

“Unit watches” are at the heart of watch culture in the National Security community and closely tied to the idea of “Watches of Espionage.”  A unit watch is a timepiece that is customized by the manufacturer for members of a specific unit or organization inside the military.  Customizations can include the unit’s insignia or motto on the dial and/or an engraving on the caseback. 

Former CIA Paramilitary Officer Billy Waugh passed away at the age of 93 exactly one week ago; but we don’t mourn his death–instead we celebrate his incredible life of service in the best way we know how–through his timepieces. William “Billy” Waugh is the Forest Gump of CIA and Special Forces with a larger than life personality and an uncanny knack for adventure. At the conclusion of WWII he attempted to enlist in the United States Marine Corps at age 15. His age got in the way, but three years later, in ‘48, he successfully enlisted in the United States Army, launching a career that would become nothing short of legendary in the Special Operations community.  (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In the very year Waugh enlisted, North Korea, along with Israel, became recognized nations. The US-led Berlin Airlift was underway in response to a Soviet blockade, and Czechoslovakia had fallen to communism. By the time Waugh retired in 2005 at age 75 from the CIA, the entire geopolitical landscape had been dramatically reshaped–and Waugh’s half a century of service had played a part in that change. He deployed to the Korean, Vietnam, and Afghanistan wars as well as numerous covert operations throughout the globe. Waugh’s Rolex, Photo Provided by Waugh’s widow through Ric Prado and Tom Marshall. Waugh wore several watches throughout his career, including at least three iconic Rolexes and a Seiko 6309. They were crucial parts of his kit and can be seen on his wrist from pictures in Vietnam, Sudan, Cuba, Afghanistan, and in his retirement as he speaks to the next generation of warriors.  Like many stories here at W.O.E., it’s never strictly about the watches. The watches we cover are simply a token–a memento–that stand in to represent incredible tales of servitude and sacrifice. Billy Waugh’s watches are no different. They represent key moments in a life dedicated to the Special Operations community. The Missing Rolex, Vietnam: In 1954, after serving in Korea, Waugh earned his Green Beret and joined the 10th Special Forces Group in Bad Tölz, in what was West Germany at the time. The same year the Vietnam war kicked off, and Waugh found himself right at the center of the conflict for a number of years. Eventually Waugh joined Special Forces A-team A-321, an “Operational Detachment Alpha” serving with 5th Special Forces Group.  The ODA conducted a night raid on a Viet Cong compound in Bong Son, in Binh Dinh Province. The area was littered with Viet Cong, North Vietnamese and other Communist forces including the Chinese and that left Waugh and his teammates thoroughly outnumbered. A fire fight broke out and the ODA was hit hard. Most of Waugh’s teammates were injured in the fight, including Waugh. He described the situation in his book, Hunting the Jackal. Waugh as a young Special Forces Master Sergeant, 1964 (Photo Crédit: Hunting the Jackal) I took another bullet, this time across the right side of my forehead. I don’t know for sure, but I believe the bullet ricocheted off the bamboo before striking me. It sliced in and out of a two-inch section of my forehead, and it immediately started to bleed like an open faucet. It sounds like the punch line to a bad joke, but you know it’s a bad day when the best thing about it is getting shot in the head. Miraculously Waugh was still alive, but in bad shape.  All that mud had baked on me like a crust. The leeches were everywhere. The bones on my leg were sun-baked. The dried blood on my forehead made it tough to see, but I didn’t need my eyes to understand I was naked. They’d (the North Vietnamese Army) come across that paddy and stripped me of my clothes, my Rolex watch, my gear–everything.  Eventually Waugh's teammates found him and brought him to safety. The road to recovery was long, but for his valiant efforts, he was awarded a Silver Star and a Purple Heart.  While we can’t say for sure, this Rolex was likely a Submariner ref. 5513 or GMT ref. 1675, both popular in the SF community and could then be purchased for “a month's salary.”  Waugh (left) in 1969 wearing what is potentially a replacement Rolex on a fabric strap and compass. (Photo Credit: Unknown) After recovering, Waugh got back in the fight and joined the shadowy Military Assistance Command-Vietnam Studies and Observations Group (MACV-SOG). Plenty of his work in this capacity is still classified, but it’s known that he helped train up Cambodian and Vietnamese forces in unconventional warfare tactics that would help disrupt the Ho Chi Minh trail supply route and stymy the efforts of the Viet Cong. Additionally, Waugh became highly skilled in High Altitude Low Opening parachute jumps, known as HALO. This insertion platform allowed operators to enter hostile territory virtually undetected. Waugh led the last special reconnaissance mission in ‘71; Waugh and his teammates used the HALO platform to enter a denied territory held by the NVA.  Custom Gem-set Gold Rolex Day-Date: Waugh briefly retired from military service when the Vietnam War wound down and took a job with the United States Postal Service. But Waugh wasn’t meant for the USPS. He had more to give to the world of Special Operations. Before he knew it, he was back in the fold.  In the mid-1970’s Edwin Wilson, formerly CIA, recruited Waugh and a few of his former teammates to train up Libyan special forces. Waugh thought this was a CIA-backed operation, but it turned out Wilson was acting outside an official capacity. Waugh's saving grace is that he was indeed recruited by CIA prior to his transition to Libya for Wilson’s project. The CIA tasked him with photographing and reporting on any interesting activity that he noticed while he was there. The USSR was heavily invested in Libya and was of interest to US security. He photographed and observed the soldiers he was training and various Surface-to-Air missile sites.  Waugh’s Gold Rolex Day-Date with aftermarket diamonds. (Photo Credit: member of W.O.E. Community) It was here that he reportedly purchased a gem-set gold Rolex Day-Date. According to a member of the W.O.E. community, Waugh told students of a recent Special Forces 18A course that he “purchased it in the late seventies in Libya for 13-14k.” But Waugh was well aware of the rise in value of Rolex watches. “Ya better believe that goddamn thing is worth about $25k or more now!” Waugh exclaimed when discussing the watch.  Waugh’s Rolex, Photo Provided by Waugh’s widow through Ric Prado and Tom Marshall. We’ve had pictures of this watch for over a year but didn’t publish them for a simple reason: we surmised the authenticity of the watch may have been questionable.  However, we reached out to several vintage watch experts who said they believe the watch is likely real but modified with aftermarket diamonds on the bezel and dial. This style of modification was relatively common during the period. Rolex even launched its own service creating bespoke pieces for discerning clients in the ‘60s and ‘70s with custom gem-setting.  While we can’t establish a concrete history of the watch, the diamond-set gold Rolex is perfect for an old school SF operator.  Waugh was also famous for wearing an SF pendant on a gold chain and gold rings.  This watch can be seen frequently on his wrist after retirement, the bracelet is stretched and scratched after decades of hard use. (Photo Credit: Nick Stubbs / US Air Force / Wikimedia Commons / Public Domain) Post Libya: After his Libya stint Waugh was assigned to the Kwajalein Missile Range in the Marshall Islands to survey and report on Soviet maritime activity in the area. In 1991 he returned to Africa, this time to Khartoum, Sudan to survey and track Usama Bin Laden, who was relatively unknown to the public but of interest to the US intelligence. Waugh’s assignment was to survey the activities and patterns of life of Bin Laden. According to a contact that discussed the assignment with Waugh, he would “conduct his surveillance under the guise of going for a jog around the living area of bin Laden and his guards, frequently ‘flipping those bastards the bird or pretending to shoot them by pointing finger guns and imitating pulling the trigger’ while they watched him conduct his run. Waugh mentioned pushing up the request to kill bin Laden as it didn’t make sense to him to burn more time watching him. That request was denied and he wrapped up his surveillance shortly thereafter.”  Waugh in Cairo, Egypt late 1990s (Photo Credit: Waugh) The subject of much of Waugh’s book, Hunting the Jackal, is Ilich Ramirez Sanchez, known as “Carlos the Jackal.” Waugh was assigned to track him down after Sanchez had evaded a number of intelligence agencies around the world after committing murder in a number of countries and playing a role in terror attacks. Waugh set up a surveillance site, tracked and photographed The Jackal for some time before turning over the intelligence to the French, who conducted the capture mission.  Rolex 1675 “Pepsi” GMT-Master: Rolex GMT on Waugh’s wrist in retirement. (Photo Credit, Recoil Magazine and Tom Marshall) We have previously said that a GMT-Master is the perfect watch for a CIA Case Officer, and this is especially true for an old school operator like Billy Waugh.  This reference is likely from the 1970s around the time Waugh would have been recruited by the CIA.  Unfortunately, we are unable to confirm the details of when he acquired the watch and if it was worn operationally in any capacity, though given Waugh’s life, it is reasonable to assume this is the case. Waugh has been photographed wearing the watch, including during a recent interview with Recoil Magazine. Rolex GMT on Waugh’s wrist in retirement. (Photo Credit, Recoil Magazine and Tom Marshall) September 11th, 2001: After the September 11 attacks, Waugh, then 71, deployed to Afghanistan as a member of the CIA’s Northern Alliance Liaison Team –codenamed JAWBREAKER.  The Rolex was left at home and Waugh can be seen wearing a digital Suunto watch, similar to that worn by CIA team leader J.R. Seeger, as documented in “Digital Watches Of Espionage.”  As previously discussed, the digital tool-watch was a far more effective tool for the modern day fighter, even a SOG veteran like Waugh.   Despite his age, Waugh was well suited for the initial mission into Afghanistan, given his time tracking Usama bin Laden in Sudan in the ‘90s and his decades of combat and intelligence experience.  He would celebrate his 72nd birthday in Afghanistan. Gardez, Afghanistan January 2002, wearing a Suunto (Photo Credit: Hunting the Jackal, Waugh) In total, Waugh would be awarded one Silver Star, four Bronze Stars for Valor, four Commendation Ribbons for Valor, fourteen Air Medals for Valor, two Combat Infantryman badges and eight Purple Hearts.  We can also assume Waugh was awarded numerous classified commendations from CIA. As previously discussed, this reflection is less about Waugh’s watches and more about the man who wore them.  Billy Waugh served the nation with the most difficult assignments for both the US Army Special Forces and the Central Intelligence Agency.  This is our way to memorialize that service and honor his sacrifice. Fair Winds and Following Seas Waugh sky diving in Cuba wearing a Seiko 6309 at an astonishing 89 years old. (Photo Credit: Annie Jacobson)  For additional information, read Waugh’s “Hunting the Jackal” and watch the interview with Waugh by Recoil Magazine.  Thank you for Tom Marshall and an unnamed member of the W.O.E. community for providing pictures and additional background on the pieces. Read Next: Vietnam MACV-SOG Seikos: Setting The Record Straight   

The Shield Protects the Crown:  W.O.E. is a watch snob–or at least I was. For years, I looked down on Tudor as an inferior tool watch existing in the shadow of its big brother Rolex. I never understood why someone with a Rolex would purchase a Tudor.  After all, Tudor is a poor man's Rolex, or so I thought. Most haters are motivated by insecurity, but my views were simply shaped by ignorance. I didn’t know much about Tudor and was unaware of Tudor’s long standing relationship with the Intelligence and Special Operations communities, a personally relevant intersection.  I comfort myself by saying this ignorance was understandable as Tudor left the U.S. market in the 1990s and did not return until 2013.  But this excuse is weak at best for a former CIA officer who spent years overseas window shopping for watches in boutiques around the world. Tudor still existed in some capacity or another in the most unexpected markets. For instance, it never pulled out of China, and has been selling the Prince Date and Prince Date Day for almost half a century in select Eastern markets. These watches never made it to the US, even after Tudor returned in 2013. Retired Navy Adm. William McRaven wearing Tudor Pelagos. (Photo Credit: Mike Segar/Reuters) To be fair, when I worked at CIA, I was far from a watch nerd.  I did not read Hodinkee, watch Bark and Jack YouTube videos, or follow watch pages on Instagram. I loved watches and used them regularly, but my knowledge was entirely surface-level. My interests were driven by conversations with others, the appearance and feel of the watch on the wrist, and its practical utility.  I was either the purest or most superficial watch enthusiast on the planet, you decide. There’s a purity in knowing just enough to enjoy watches for what they are rather than deliberate over them.  Navy SEAL Philip "Moki" Martin issued Tudor Submariners (7928 - left) and (7016-right) (Photo Credit Hodinkee, James Stacey)  Like many who go on to a career at the tip of the spear, growing up I devoured books on National Security and Special Operations.  Prior to 9/11, much of that literature revolved around the Vietnam War and a handful of Cold War-era CIA memoirs.  Frequently referenced in these books were “Rolex watches.” While some of these were undoubtedly Rolex Submariners and GMTs purchased from the PX, in reality many of these were likely issued Tudor Submariners (7928 and others), understandably mistaken as Rolex since they had “CASE BY ROLEX GENEVA ORIGINAL OYSTER” engraved on the caseback, not to mention the Rolex crown in relief on the crown of the watch, or the Rolex logos engraved on the bracelet clasp. In fact, many of these watches were nearly identical to their Rolex counterparts except for the movement and dials. Moki Martin in Vietnam as a Navy Seal, Tudor 7928 on the wrist (Photo Credit: Moki Martin) Today, I have multiple Rolex watches in my collection and the watch industry connections to easily buy a new Rolex at retail (flex). But I elected to go with Tudor for two out of my last three watch purchases.  As discussed in “Ask W.O.E. Anything,” my ultimate grail is not a Rolex, but a military-issued Tudor Submariner. Last week, some of the world’s largest and most important watch brands released new timepieces during a trade show dubbed “Watches and Wonders” in Geneva, Switzerland.  Tudor made some significant headway including the release of Black Bay 54 and an updated Black Bay 41 with a striking red bezel, and more importantly some technological and cosmetic advancements that will permeate the entire collection in due time.  Newly released Tudor Black Bay 54 (Photo Credit: Tudor Product shot) We’ll leave the reviews of new references to the professional watch nerds, but we want to step back and provide our understanding of Tudor’s current position in the market and, perhaps more importantly, how it relates to our community. Tudor entered 2023 as the undisputed leader in the luxury tool watch space, with luxury watches crudely defined as watches costing over $2,500. I am and always will be a Rolex man with a particular interest in pre-ceramic sports watches, but Tudor is the future for tool watch enthusiasts. This is the way. Rolex- Jewelry or Tool Watch? Rolex Explorer II (Photo Credit: James Rupley) To understand this change, one must first understand how Tudor’s big brother, Rolex, has evolved over the previous two decades.  The late 2000s introduction of the ceramic bezel marked a turning point for the brand.  Since then, Rolex has trended towards a sleeker, more polished look. While enthusiasts will lament the good ole days and say Rolex has sold out, from a business perspective, this was clearly the right move.  A recent Morgan Stanley report concluded Rolex is the largest stakeholder in the Swiss watch industry, with an estimated 29% of total sales at retail. Over the subsequent 15 years, there has been a significant increase in demand for Rolex watches, which has resulted in models becoming near-unobtainable at retail prices. It’s simple, demand outstrips supply. Even if you are able to acquire one from an authorized dealer, the customer experience is less than satisfactory, with months of waiting on an opaque “list” kissing the ass of a sales associate.  With secondary prices at times twice retail, it is hard to justify the “use your tools” mentality while wearing a new Rolex GMT, which might be worth more than your car. We won't go as far as to say that a Rolex is a piece of jewelry rather than a tool watch; however, this widely held perception is understandable. Black Bay 58 on W.O.E. Jedburgh Strap (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Tudor- The Shield Protects the Crown In sharp contrast to Rolex, and by design, Tudor has returned to its roots.  In 1926, Hans Wilsdorf, Rolex’s founder, created Tudor as a more affordable alternative. Many international SpecOps and maritime units–including those from Argentina, the US, Israel, France, Canada, South Africa, and even Jamaica– adopted the Tudor Submariner as their tool of choice in the second half of the 20th Century.  Today, Tudor’s association with Rolex allows Tudor to embrace its tool watch heritage and compete with brands in the $3,000-$5,000 market. One only has to look at the logos to understand the relationship between the two brands. Tudor's logo is the shield, Rolex's is the crown. The crown is worn by kings, the shield is carried by soldiers. The "shield protects the crown" and the Warrior-King reps both.  Marine Nationale issued Tudor 9401 on French diver - mid-1970s (Photo Credit: Tudor/MN) Some say that “Tudor of today is what Rolex was in the mid-20th century,” but a more accurate statement would be that Tudor of today is what Tudor was in the mid-20th Century.  While other brands have capitalized on the latest trends (Tiffany blue everything?) and moved upmarket, Tudor has stuck to its roots: premium yet relatively “affordable” tool watches. Few luxury brands are more aligned with the ethos of W.O.E. and the belief that you should use your tools. Look at Tudor's marketing materials and you will see men and women on expeditions, deep sea dives, alpine climbs, and even Special Operations maritime units (guns obviously excluded). Dallas Alexander JTF2 Tudor Pelagos (Photo Credit: Shawn Ryan Show) Further, Tudor appears to quietly support “unit watches” for some of the most elite SpecOps units, including one that was recently shown on the wrist of a former Canadian JTF2 sniper, Dallas Alexander, during an interview on the Shawn Ryan Show.  These collaborations are even more meaningful as the predecessors of these units wore Tudor MilSubs (Tudors were issued to the Royal Canadian Navy). Many others have not been seen in the public domain, like this U.S. Secret Service Counter Assault Team (CAT) "HAWKEYE" Pelagos. U.S. Secret Service Counter Assault Team (CAT) call sign- HAWKEYE Unit Watch -Posted with approval from owner (Anonymous)  In sharp contrast to Rolex, I recently visited the Tudor boutique in New York and they had every reference available for sale, with the two exceptions of the FXD and the relatively-new Pelagos 39. It is sad that this is notable, but that is the reality of the watch market today. 2022 marked a historic moment for Tudor and we believe that the brand has entered 2023 as the undisputed leader in the luxury tool watch category.  Tudor’s 2022 releases of the Back Bay Pro and the sub-$3k Ranger with a strap was a gangster move and the encore of the near-perfect titanium Pelagos 39 was the finisher. Black Bay 58, Pelagos FXD, Pelagos 39 (Photo Credit: you already know) As a general practice, W.O.E. does not focus on watch reviews.  Mostly this is because the traditional watch media is better suited for analyzing new releases, movements, etc.  Often this is just regurgitating marketing material from the company and ultimately concluding that the watch should be “one millimeter smaller/larger” or some other minute change that would impact very few. That said, here is our analysis of what we believe are the top three “tool watches” produced by Tudor: the Pelagos 39, Pelagos (FXD/LHD), and the Black Bay 58. Pelagos/LHD/FXD- Apex Predator:  Jason Heaton - “In a sea of dive watches, the Tudor Pelagos is an apex predator.” Jason Heaton said it best, “the Pelagos and LHD are the apex predators of the Tudor dive watches, the best modern mechanical dive watches on the market.” Rated to 500 meters with a helium escape valve, a beefy 42mm case, a date window, a titanium bracelet with a patented extension system, and a complementary rubber strap with a wetsuit extension, the Pelagos is everything you need in a watch. The Pelagos is also offered in a left-hand configuration (LHD) and a purpose-designed FXD developed in partnership with the French SOF unit, the Commando Hubert, something we will dive into in a future Dispatch. Complaints: There aren't many.  The watch has a lot of entirely unnecessary features, but you could say the same about most tool watches and they do not take it overboard.  As a periodic resort diver, W.O.E. knows enough about the helium escape valve to know I will never need one. Also, 42 mm is larger than most present-day watches but it does wear smaller than the specs suggest. Black Bay Fifty Eight- a new classic: Black Bay 58 in the African Bush, 2022. (Photo Credit: W.O.E.) This is a classic legacy piece with not-so-subtle nods to Tudor's Big Crown Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner past with the lack of crown guards, red triangle on the bezel at 0/60, and gold accents, giving it an almost patinated look, but not overdone. An absolute staple in any collection whether you are a man or woman, a badass Navy SEAL Green Beret sniper, or a keyboard warrior.  Something that can be worn on the beach, in a boardroom, or even the African bush. Complaints: The faux riveted bracelet is a little much and drilled lug holes would be gangster. Pelagos 39 - a modern Tudor Submariner:  Pelagos 39- W.O.E.'s Personal (Photo Credit: Rupley) The P39 seemingly came out of nowhere and went on to become the undisputed 2022 dive watch champion.  While dubbed a smaller version of the 42mm Pelagos, in reality, this is more of a modernized titanium Tudor Submariner than a smaller Pelagos.  Titanium has a signature look and is reminiscent of tools that get used. The SR-71 Blackbird is one of them.  Of the three watches I purchased over the past year, this is what has been on my wrist the most.  Unfortunately, given the high demand, these are still incredibly hard to find due to limited allocations to each dealer, but we expect this to subside in the near future. Complaints:  The lume on the hands is faint; it is hard to understand how this passed the final Quality Control in Geneva and should be a simple fix.  The requirement to use the titanium end links with the rubber strap results in an odd look.  The 21mm lug-to-lug is completely unnecessary but hardly noticeable with a solid fabric strap (like the W.O.E.-ZA Single Pass). Would a date option be nice? Yes. Would a GMT hand be cool? For sure, but for the Pelagos 39, the functionality is in the simplicity.   20mm W.O.E.-ZA Strap on the 21mm Pelagos 39 (James Rupley) Final Thoughts: There are plenty of other great Tudors in the lineup, including the Black Bay Pro and the GMT which are both popular in the W.O.E. community and we encourage you to check them out.  While smaller than we generally prefer, the newly released Black Bay 54 is intriguing in its nod to the vintage 7922 and improvements from the BB58. Use this list as a starting point, but don’t let us influence your opinions.  Visit a nearby boutique and you can pretty much guarantee that they will have at least some models to try and take home that day if you so choose.  Sadly, in-store availability isn’t guaranteed, but that is the harsh reality of buying watches in 2023. Regardless of what you decide, get out there and use your tools.   -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our free weekly newsletter for further updates HERE. This article has been reviewed by the CIA's Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.   Read Next: The Pragmatic Journey Of A SEAL Through Watch Collecting  

The "Escape and Evasion" Rolex The final requirement to be certified as a CIA Case Officer (C/O) is to pass the certification course at a classified government training center commonly referred to as “the Farm.”  Students learn the tradecraft to clandestinely recruit and handle assets.  The entire learning process is a surreal experience, and the atmosphere at “the Farm” is somewhere between a college campus with a constant stream of students riding by on cruiser bikes (IYKYK), a covert paramilitary base with state-of-the-art tactical facilities, and Hogwarts, a place where you learn the dark arts they don’t teach in regular school. Like most government training programs, the curriculum is divided between classroom lecture and discussion sessions combined with significant role-playing and practical applications. The third, and largely unofficial, pillar of the training is informal mentoring from the instructors and Independent Contractors, all of whom are former Case Officers with significant real world experience.  True to the stereotype, much of these conversations happen over beers at the facility’s notorious watering hole after long days of training. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) One night after a Surveillance Detection evolution, our small group was sitting in that dimly-lit bar, nursing our drinks as we listened to grizzled old Africa Division C/O regale stories of his decades “on the continent” during the Cold War. It was late, the evening was wrapping up, and the bartender rang the bell for last call. Suddenly the instructor stood up and tapped a Rolex GMT-Master on his wrist, “I will leave you with one point: always wear a Rolex. A fellow Case Officer traded his for the last seat on a plane out of (REDACTED) during the (REDACTED) Civil War in the 70s, and that watch saved his life.  A story for another time.” The moment quickly passed, like many others during that six month period that I have long forgotten.  I never heard the full story, I still don’t know if it was true or just typical bravado from a crusty old C/O who never let the truth get in the way of a good story. (Rolex Coke 16710 on W.O.E. DNC Strap, Photo Credit: James Rupley) Rolex as an Escape and Evasion Tool: Visit any internet watch forum or social media page on military watches and you are bound to see someone claim they know someone who was an “operator” who wore a Rolex to barter their way out of a bad situation.  But have watches ever really been used for this purpose?  Or are these only tall tales told over beers?  I know many people (myself included) who wore a luxury timepiece while operational at CIA and in the Special Operations community.  We have documented many of them on Watches of Espionage in the past.  While the main purpose of the watch was not for Escape and Evasion (E&E), that was always an option and a contingency plan if needed. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) The concept is simple: Should you find yourself in need of immediate help, the watch can be utilized as a form of currency that can be traded for a few hours of shelter in a basement, a ride to the nearest international border, or a seat on the next plane out of a war-torn nation. A Rolex is easier to carry and less likely to be misplaced than ounces of gold or stacks of hundred dollar bills. The brand has a perceived inherent value and is immediately recognizable throughout the world.  CIA finance officers will not reimburse a personal watch if used for this purpose, but ultimately it was a financial risk I was willing to take in my overseas operations. Bottom Line Up Front (BLUF), we have never heard a confirmed story of a CIA officer using a timepiece in this manner. But that’s not to say it’s a total fallacy, there are indeed some historical examples of timepieces being used, or at least intended, for this very purpose.  Let’s explore: WWII Life Barter Kit:   (Photo Credit: Naval History and Heritage Command) Starting in World War II, the US Navy issued pilots Escape and Evasion (E&E) Barter Kits. This one, likely from the late 1950s or 1960s, was a sealed black rubber kit containing two gold rings, a gold chain and pendant, and of course a Milus Snow Star watch on a cloth strap. The watch boasted a 21 jewel movement with a date function.  The general idea was that if an aircraft was downed in enemy (or even friendly) territory, the items could be traded with locals to aid in an escape.  They were mostly issued in the Pacific theaters of WWII, Vietnam and the Korean War, although it is unclear whether they were actually leveraged for their intended purpose. Special Forces and the Vietnam War:   Navy SEALS wearing Tudor Submariners in Vietnam (Photo Credit: Unknown) There is significant documentation that Special Forces, Navy SEALs, and CIA officers wore Rolex, Tudors and other timepieces throughout the conflict in Southeast Asia.  While some of these watches were issued for their primary purpose- to tell time - they could also be purchased tax-free at the Post Exchange (PX) for a “months salary” - anywhere from $150-$250, which is a couple of thousand in today’s dollars.  While former MACV-SOG legend John Stryker Meyer, or “Tilt” to those that know him, told W.O.E. that many of his comrades purchased Rolex watches that were to be used as a potential bartering tool during escape and evasion, we have not yet seen documented examples of watches actually used for this purpose.  U-2 Incident-Cold War:   USAF pilot Gary Powers holds a model of the U-2, a high-altitude reconnaissance aircraft.  On May 1st, 1960, USAF pilot Francis Gary Powers was shot down while flying a reconnaissance mission in Soviet airspace, causing the infamous 1960 U-2 incident that had significant diplomatic implications during the height of the Cold War. Powers carried an E&E kit containing maps, a compass, gold coins, Soviet Rubles, and four gold watches. Of course, Powers was immediately apprehended and was unable to utilize the watches for their intended purpose. He spent 1 year, 9 months, and 10 days as a prisoner of the USSR. Gary Power’s E&E Kit on display in Moscow (Photo Credit: Unknown) Behind Enemy Lines- Bosnia:  O’Grady hugs his wife after rescue, a "Pepsi" Rolex GMT-Master visible on his wrist. (Photo Credit: Getty Images) In June 1995, Air Force Captain Scott O’Grady’s F-16 was shot down by a Serb-controlled 2K12 Kub mobile surface-to-air missile while flying a routine combat air patrol. In one of the few modern documented examples of E&E in hostile territory, O’Grady spent six days evading capture before his rescue by US Marines. Like many pilots, O’Grady wore a “Pepsi” Rolex GMT-Master on his wrist, a gift from his father. However, O’Grady did not view the watch as a tool for escape, but as a motivation to push him to return home.  O’Grady would later recall, “I knew what would happen if I was captured. The Rolex would be gone in a wink . . .  a nice little war souvenir for somebody.  I was determined that would never happen.  Nobody was going to capture me.” Breitling for a Toyota- Ukraine:  Andrew Smeaton, Breitling not pictured, (Photo Credit: toggle magazine) During the chaotic days following Russia’s 2022 invasion of Ukraine, Andrew Smeaton, the CISO of DataRobot, reportedly traveled to Ukraine to assist with the evacuation of one of his employees.  When he arrived in Poland, he found it was difficult to rent a car to drive into Ukraine.  So, he reportedly traded his Breitling for a “15-year-old Toyota that was low on oil and needed duct tape to keep the hood in place.”  The rest is history, Smeaton was able to drive the car into the warzone and make contact with his employee for a safe return.  Smeaton would later recall, "It's never like the movies, right? There's no James Bond. There's no Aston Martin."  (Photo Credit: James Rupley) The Verdict: So what's the verdict?  Has a timepiece been used to barter for one's escape from a warzone or bad situation?  Unfortunately, I’ve lost contact with that crusty old Case Officer, and despite my years serving “on the continent,” I was never able to confirm the story as fact or myth.  Like many great espionage stories, we must leave this question unanswered–for now. As we discussed in a previous Dispatch, "Timepiece Crime And Traveling With Watches," things have changed and today the risk of traveling with a Rolex may outweigh the potential benefits.  At a certain point the watch may be more likely to get you in a bad situation than out of one.  It is a liability, not an asset.  Our exploration of “Watches of Espionage” is still in its infancy, and we would not be surprised to learn of a story where a Rolex or other high-end timepiece was used by a Case Officer or SpecOps operator to get out of a jam. If you have, drop us a line–you won’t have to trade your watch for the opportunity to tell the story.    Read Next: Criminal Rolex Gangs And Traveling With Watches, Part I This article has been reviewed by the CIA's Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

This Dispatch is a counter argument to the previous Dispatch “James Bond Should Wear a Rolex” To those familiar with modern fiction, the inclusion of extreme detail for items such as the tools of the hero’s trade are incredibly common, but rarely to the extent found in Ian Fleming’s text written 70 years ago. Authors today rarely go the distance to ground their characters in the real world as much as Fleming, with the exception of a few, notably Jack Carr in his James Reece saga. Such level of detail has created passionate responses in readers to the choices made since Fleming’s first novel in 1953, and even today, we continue to discuss these issues at length. Bond's Galco Executive Shoulder Holster, Walther P99 Gen 1, and Omega Seamaster Professional 2531.80.00, which first appeared with an automatic movement in 1997's Tomorrow Never Dies. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/ @omegabondwatches) Today, I am thrilled to be writing in the Dispatch. My name is Caleb Daniels (@commandobond), and I am a lifelong fan of all things Bond, with a particular passion for his style and selection of daily carry items. While this certainly lends a focus to sartorial items, holsters, and handguns, it also includes one of the most important pieces of any discerning gentleman’s wardrobe – his timepiece. I’m grateful for the chance to share my viewpoint today in a playful response to the “Why Rolex” piece previously published. Here, we will first share the full story of Omega’s origins with James Bond, followed by a detailed analysis of the history of product placement in Bond, and the critical role it plays in keeping the franchise alive. While this piece does not serve as a direct response to the first Dispatch, it aims to present a more thorough history of Bond, offer a better understanding of why adjustments have been made, and propose a case for why we can celebrate Omega’s inclusion in 007’s history. The Omega Story I’d like to begin by first clearing the air and telling the true story of how Omega found its way into the Bond films. While today it is clearly one of the most powerful and important marketing relationships in cinema, it did not start that way. Pierce Brosnan and Omega (Photo Credit: Unknown) Rather, it is due to the actions of costume designer Lindy Hemming. Hemming’s journey with Bond began in GoldenEye (1995), and she was faced with a challenge that few had been faced with before. There was to be a new Bond actor (Pierce Brosnan), one that was coming on the heels of a commercial disaster (Dalton’s second and final outing Licence to Kill, which released inopportunely against Batman ’89 and suffered the consequences). This was also to be the first Bond film to be made post the fall of the Soviet Union. The relevance of Bond was in question, as was the prospect of GoldenEye. The space between Licence to Kill and GoldenEye was the longest gap between films to date, six years, and with the poor reception of the previous one, it seemed as if Bond’s journey on the silver screen may be at an end. This was certainly at the forefront of everyone’s mind during the production of GoldenEye, and yet it was in the face of these challenges that arguably one of the finest Bond films was created. Now, what exactly does this have to do with Omega? Like every other Bond actor’s first outing, the goal of the film was to reintroduce the character through the lens of that era. Think Live and Let Die (1973). Moore was introduced wielding a revolver (although he carries a PPK in the film, promo imagery and the finale leaned heavily on wheel guns), sipping bourbon (not vodka martinis) and smoking cigars (not cigarettes). Minor adjustments to the layperson, but significant shifts to the stalwart fan. This process, and the space between films inspired Hemming to take a step back from Rolex, as she explained in a New York Times article. “There hadn’t been a Bond for a few years and I was given the opportunity to rethink him,” she said. “I wanted him to be more modern and European.” With that motive in mind, she looked to those she knew for guidance, including friends of her father who were Naval men, and who preferred Omega. “They were gentlemen, good guys, ready for anything,” she said. “Omega was perfect for a Naval commander who dived and rescued people.” In Hemming’s words, Rolex was not the brand of the time for a man like Bond in 1995. “The Rolex watch had become rather flash,” Ms. Hemming said. “Rolex was part of a city boy culture. It didn’t seem appropriate for Bond at that moment.” What’s most important, however, is the fact that the original deal did not include product placement. Hemming herself reached out to Omega and was given a Quartz movement Seamaster 300M, reference number 2541.80.00. Bond's Galco Executive Shoulder Holster, Omega Seamaster Professional  2541.80.00 Quartz Movement, on a Hirsch Toronto and (non-explosive) Parker Jotter pen. (Photo Credit: Rupley/@Omegabonwatches) “There was no product placement incentive in 1995 whatsoever. I went to them, and of course they were interested. But it was no more than helping us. They gave us the watches for nothing.” (Photo Credit: Bond Franchise, Thunderballs) I find this to be an important detail in this story. While this relationship quickly expanded past a costume designer’s choice and into one of the most foundational product deals in cinema, like with Fleming, it came from a natural and organic place and does not deserve to be chastised on those grounds. Rather, like many of Fleming’s own choices, this was a selection that was made by personal preference to match the moment, and then later became a marketing engine to keep the film series alive. Fleming Lore & Product Placement (Photo Credit: Rupley) Fleming was a true pioneer. He sought in his writing to clearly ground Bond in the world around him, despite the incredible adventures he found himself part of. It’s this level of detail that still allows fans today to source and locate everything from the toiletries of Bond to his preferred alcohol brands (for example, just ask my friend James Rupley about his fruitless attempts to get a bottle of Old Grand-dad bourbon featured in the novel Live and Let Die), recipes for scrambled eggs, and in the case of this article, his timepieces. In this section, we will be pulling from Fleming’s own letters surrounding his time writing Bond, as found in the book The Man with the Golden Typewriter, Ian Fleming’s James Bond Letters. (Photo Credit: Rupley) Today, this level of detail, particularly in the vein of firearms and watches, is often met with skepticism, complaints, and even accusations of pay-offs for the inclusion of such pieces. Fleming, however, wrote long before product placement was the standard fare, and he set the stage for the cinematic Bond to take part in the very same level of intense detail. His unique passion was for verisimilitude, the creation of hyper-real worlds and adventures for his fictional hero. As Fleming himself said in a letter written in response to the director of the fragrance brand Floris, which had written him thanking him for their brief inclusion in the novel Moonraker, “My books are spattered with branded products of one sort or another, as I think it is stupid to invent bogus names for products which are household words, and you may be interested to know that this is the first time a name-firm has had the kindly thought of acknowledging the published tribute.” -Ian Fleming to Michael Bodenham, Esq., Director, Floris Ltd., 89 Jerymn Street, London, S.W.1. Floris is a brilliant example of a brand that found itself included due to its own use in Fleming’s personal life. His preferred fragrance, No. 89, is still available today and is a favorite of Bond fans throughout the world, again showing the staying power of even the smallest of association with 007. In fact, Floris has happily leaned into the Bond connection, even releasing a No. 007 scent for the 60th anniversary celebrations last year. (Photo Credit: Rupley/ @Omegabonwatches) (Photo Credit: Bond Franchise / Omega) From day one of film production, it seems that Fleming was being written by brands asking for placement deals in Doctor No. Fleming wrote producer Harry Saltzman about such things and an unspecified brand in 1961, and his letter seems to set some clear parameters for how he selected products, a template that has been followed well since. Fleming to Harry Saltzman December 7th, 1961: “My Dear Harry,I have acknowledged the attached but told them to get in direct touch with your Company.Incidentally, I expect you will be getting similar approaches from other branded products used by James Bond.I don’t know what your policy in the matter will be, but I have personally found that the use of branded names in my stories helps the verisimilitude, so long as the products are quality products.Admittedly one is giving free publicity to these people, but I don’t think it matters so long as the products are in fact really good.Anyway, over to you.” Again, while Fleming himself never was paid for an endorsement, he certainly understood the power of it in producing realism, and left the decision to the film producers for how to proceed. (Photo Credit: Rupley) While the films have been met with scrutiny as described above, product placement contracts have continued to provide fans with new silver screen adventures for ages. Tomorrow Never Dies reportedly covered 100% of its product budget with brand tie-ins in 1997, and 2012’s Skyfall had nearly a third of its budget covered by a deal with Heineken. The producers of Bond have attributed this level of detail to Fleming’s work as well. The reality is, we may not have the caliber of films with the incredible production quality and stunt work that we have today without these endorsements. “Fleming describes in great detail all the things that Bond uses, whether it comes down to a glass of wine, a meal he is eating, a car he is driving, or what suit he is wearing. That’s how Bond became synonymous with quality goods. That notion really started with the books. If you think you may not be alive tomorrow, you might as well have the best of everything.” – Barbara Broccoli Now, while Fleming wrote with a great deal of intricate detail surrounding Bond’s clothes, tools, cars, and more, it took him until On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, book number 11, to switch Bond to a Rolex. Fleming’s original choice, and defense of it over a Rolex, was described by Fleming in a letter to a fan in 1958 (five years before OHMSS was published). This letter was written in response to a fan’s request that Bond upgrade his timepiece to, seemingly based on Fleming’s response, a Rolex Oyster Perpetual. For those unfamiliar with Fleming, he often referred to himself as the biographer of Bond, and frequently wrote as if his character were a real man, which is clear in the letter below. "June 5, 1958I have just got back from abroad to find your sapient rebuke of 007’s timekeeping equipment.I have discussed this with him and he points out that the Rolex Oyster Perpetual weighs about six ounces and would appreciably slow up the use of his left hand in combat. His practice, in fact, is to use fairly cheap, expendable wrist watches on expanding metal bracelets which can be slipped over the thumb and used in the form of a knuckle-duster, either on the inside or outside of the hand.In passing on his comments to you, I would add that James Bond has trained himself to tell time by the sun in either hemisphere within a few minutes.Thank you, nevertheless, for raising the point and 007 wishes to assure you that when an appropriate time-piece is available he will wear it.” It seems that Fleming finally gave in, and wrote the Rolex Oyster Perpetual into On Her Majesty’s Secret Service five years later. His expanding metal bracelet remained. (Photo Credit: Rupley/ @Omegabondwatches) I make this case in its entirety to say this – Fleming himself only named a Rolex as Bond's dedicated watch after writing ten Bond stories, (Bond briefly wears one while diving in Live and Let Die, 1954, but according to Fleming's letter, daily wore other watches until OHMSS) and he himself argued against its inclusion initially as well. There’s nothing wrong with the brand, nor would I argue that Rolex watches do not have a place on Bond’s wrist. But if everything Fleming wrote remained today, and no evolution with the times had taken place, the character would still be driving a 1930s Bentley Blower and carrying a skeletonized .25 ACP Beretta that was underpowered and outdated even in 1953. Omega has a place in the Bond story, and it is one born out of a reimagining of an iconic character, a reimagining that saved the franchise, inspired GoldenEye 007 N64, and created a new generation of fans. Deriding the brand or discounting its inclusion in the mythos is a misunderstanding of history. Both Rolex and Omega have a place in the legacy of Bond, and they deserve our respect and celebration. (Photo Credit: Rupley) My sincere thanks to WOE for the opportunity to write this counter argument, my friend Lorenzo Anselmo (@omegabondwatches) for providing me and James Rupley with unfettered access to his astounding Omega collection. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.   Read Next: James Bond should Wear A Rolex  —----------------------------------------------------------- The photography above, and much of the text stems from an upcoming project from Headstamp Publishing @headstamp and Caleb Daniels (@commandobond) – the first comprehensive study of all the firearms of James Bond, including every novel (Fleming and otherwise) and every screen treatment of the character. Other critical items, such as his watches, will be discussed in great detail, dissecting the most essential carry implements of one of the world’s most celebrated action heroes, James Bond, 007. Follow @headstamp and @commandobond to keep abreast of this project – so much more to come.

At its core, the Breitling Aerospace is a functional tool watch. The dual digital screens of the chronometer-certified "SuperQuartz" have practical features including a digital chronograph, second time zone, day and date, alarm, and countdown timer. In the intelligence business, these would be useful features for conducting clandestine operations where time matters. While serving overseas with the CIA, the second time feature would be set to Washington D.C. in order to quickly confirm when my headquarters-based counterparts would arrive in the office to check secure communications. The digital timer was particularly useful and was used to log activities during surveillance operations in African capitals, time custodial debriefings of ISIS members, and to record legs of Surveillance Detection Runs.

There are a few accessories that every watch owner needs, and a durable two-piece leather strap is one of them. So we went out and designed our own using the best craftsmen in America.  The Jedburgh is a two piece English Bridle Leather Strap and the Desert Night Camouflage (DNC) is a two piece leather/canvas strap using repurposed camouflage uniforms.

Forty years have passed since the introduction of the Casio G-Shock in 1983. And while the basic formula behind the world’s most durable watch has remained largely unchanged since the legendary DW-5000C first hit store shelves, the world of warfare and the United States Military in particular have made significant strides in both equipment and tactical doctrine. Conflicts in Panama, the Persian Gulf, and Bosnia/Herzegovina were waged in a bygone analog era, influenced by lessons learned in the Vietnam War. But the terrorist attacks of September 11th changed all of that, embroiling the United States in a new type of war based on counter-insurgency in the digitally-augmented age. 

Readers of thrillers set in World War II and even some non-fiction histories of the OSS and SOE could easily assume the kit of these “special forces” operators was highly specialized and the result of great care and curation in OSS and SOE headquarters. The reality was that early in the war, this kit was as much ad hoc as it was highly curated.

A foreign leader's timepiece can play a part in informing the profile and psychological assessment of the given leader, and when it comes to analysis, just having a piece of the puzzle helps – a watch might be significant or might not be.

We often assign greater value to watches that were issued to soldiers in days gone by, like the Rolex MilSub of the ‘80s, Marine National Tudor Submariners from the ‘60s, or the Omega SM300 examples ordered by the British Ministry of Defence during the same era. There’s something fascinating about a watch that was ordered for a purpose and field-tested by some of the hardest men and women on the planet.  The shadow cast by these legendary military watches is long, and it’s easy to forget the fact that these very watches—tool watches paid for by militaries and distributed to service members—still exist today. Marathon’s main business model is proof. Ninety percent of their business comes from militaries and governmental organizations all around the world.  Anonymous W.O.E. community submitted picture.  On October 30, 1964 the US Department of Defense issued MIL-W-46374, a specification calling for a general purpose wrist watch suitable for military applications. As the years went on and the needs of military timekeeping changed, the specs were updated–slowly. The most current iteration of the specification, MIL-W-46374G, was issued in 1999. This is known as the “performance standard”, and even though a number of companies answered the call and produced watches for MIL-W-46374 namely Benrus, Hamilton, Stocker & Yale, and Timex, it was only Marathon that produced watches to the “G” specification. Mitchell Wein, the President of Marathon Watch company, and his father Leon Wein, and his grandfather Morris Wein before that, have been building watches to meet the needs of the US military, and select foreign forces around the world, for well over half a century.  Marine Forces Special Operations Command (MARSOC) wearing Marathon TSAR (Identified by Benjamin Lowry aka @submersiblewrist) “Sometimes the old specs need updating. The soldier has changed, what they need a watch for has changed, and how they use our watches has changed,” says Wein. And he works with various branches of the US Armed Forces to produce a watch that meets the needs of a modern service member. And as the times change, so do the watches, with the military providing insight into what they need. Wein then produces a watch that meets or exceeds their requirements. “There’s plenty that I’m not told–but after years in the business I can decipher coding on the purchase orders and make educated guesses as to some of the environments that our watches will be used in.”  And the needs of the future?  “We’re seeing that our watches may be exposed to radiation going forward,” Wein says.  A C-17 Globemaster III, sits at McMurdo Station in Antarctica in support of Operation Deep Freeze.  (U.S. Air Force photo by Maj. Tyler Boyd) Marathon watches are truly used all over. Wein says that the “arctic” watches–Marathon models with a white dial– are seeing service at both poles. The US uses them at McMurdo Station in Antarctica, and recently, forces that have been protecting the Northwest Passage–a joint cooperation between the US, Canada, and Denmark–have been using the watches in addition to Environment Canada. The idea is that the snow-grey color of the dial works to help the watch remain legible even if bright light is reflecting off snow-covered surroundings. ARCTIC EDITION LARGE DIVER'S AUTOMATIC (GSAR) (Photo Credit: Marathon) One of the most notable watches that Marathon has ever produced is the Navigator, it was created in 1986 to meet the needs of USAF aviators. With a 12-hour rotatable bezel, an symmetrical case that doubles as a crown guard, and of course Marathon’s signature tritium gas tubes that continually glow, the watch has seen decades of service aiding airmen and airwomen in cockpit duties. Over the years the watch case switched from stainless steel to composite fibershel. Why? To save the US government money; defense budgets are taxpayer-funded. But in the very near future it’s probable we’ll see the return of a stainless steel Navigator, and this time, with a raised bezel that makes it easy for aviators wearing flight gloves to grip, a design feature that Marathon utilizes on MSAR, GSAR, JSAR, and TSAR models. At long last, the Navigator is returning to its roots–but even better.  Canadian Diver wearing Marathon (Photo: Leading Seaman Valerie LeClair, Task Force Imagery Technician - Identified by Benjamin Lowry aka @submersiblewrist) In The Field  Various watches are issued by forces around the world. It’s up to both the needs of the force at large, and the nature of the specific unit to determine what watch is suitable for issue. However, Marathon remains the singular constant among all government-issued brands throughout the free world. Sure there are plenty of digital watches like Garmin, Casio, and Suunto issued to service members, but when it comes to analog watches, you’re more likely to see a Marathon issued to a service member than any other watch.  Military Issued Marathon Navigator (Photo Courtesy of DC Vintage Watches) W.O.E. Community Submitted Photos: In order to demonstrate the varied uses of issued Marathon watches, W.O.E. put out a call for submissions from the community. We asked you to tell the story of your issued Marathon. Where it’s been, what it’s seen, and how you came into possession of one of these watches (and in one case, it happened twice.) Then the stories came pouring in. You all answered the call and the mailbox was full of incredible accounts from members of our community demonstrating how a watch is used as a tool by forces around the world, proving that a Marathon is part of a uniform.  Garand Thumb Issued Marathon “US Government”  Like W.O.E., Garand Thumb, aka Mike Jones, is a social media influencer and Air Force veteran.  This issued Marathon US Government was used for training CONUS and has the scars to prove it. We will note that we have recently recruited Mike to the watch nerd family and he has a Sangin Instruments and a Rolex Submariner 5513 with stories to tell.  More on that later. Marathon TSAR “US Government” “Issued in 2010, back in those good old GWOT days, allegedly the company commander wanted to reward the company for another hard deployment and ordered these through supply. The watch is an absolute tank, very thick case but wears easily and the quartz movement is accurate. The tritium in the dial is fading after all these years but is still bright enough that I can tell the time easily in the dark without being so bright it's noticeable in the distance. In the end I had no idea how much the watch ran until meeting up with a fellow paratrooper who asked so we looked it up, MSRP was about 1000 USD and I was wearing that watch like it was a 100 dollar piece. But that's a testament of the durability and strength of it I suppose.” Marathon GSAR “US Government” “This was in Afghanistan in 2012; but I was issued the watch in Iraq in 2007/8 when I was a rifle platoon leader. No special guy, but we got all kinds of stuff back then like the automatic Benchmade knives, etc. (Afghanistan was even better with Arc’teryx and OR cold weather gear I still wear to this day sometimes.) I ditched the rubber strap and put it on two piece nylon (heresy I know, but the single nylons made it stick up way too high). I do remember being told at the time it was the “Army Rolex” because it supposedly was the most expensive watch you could get in Army inventory (no idea if that was true). Most of the other watches getting issued out at the time were Suuntos and eventually Garmins. One of the times I got blown up, it cracked the crystal and knocked loose some of the tritium lume tubes. I sent it into Marathon and they replaced it for free (I wish they had fixed it, so I could have kept the original), but I used it on every single deployment. It was great because it glowed just bright enough to read, but not as bright as a Suunto or Garmin that bad dudes could see from a ridge line away to initiate an ambush (which has happened). It definitely was the watch that bit me and gave me the “watch bug”, and I think was my first mechanical watch that was an automatic and didn’t need a battery. I also loved that since it was mechanical I didn’t have to take it off going into a SCIF. I’ve never had it serviced, but it’s still in the rotation and keeps great time. Now that I’m out my collection has grown quite a bit, but the GSAR was the one that started it all!” Marathon Stopwatch “Marathon stopwatches were issued to WSOs only, as a way to time takeoff and have a mechanical timing device in the event of the big show.  These specific Marathon stopwatches are not always issued anymore, due to availability and price, but I was adamant I get this one. The idea was that a mechanical stopwatch will be most resistant to an EMP. Most crewdogs just use their iPads now to time takeoff, but I like having a timing device in hand. Us being very old, we do things a little differently. We have to hit certain speeds by certain times before we can unstick for the takeoff roll. The navigator is primarily responsible for this, getting timing and telling the pilots when we’ve hit our specific time, they then cross check to make sure we’re fast enough to continue.  I also like to fly with a Marathon Navigator in my flight bag. I don’t wear it but I keep it hacked and ready to go, just in case. It’s been that way through training and 4 different airframes now, so maybe it’s more of a good luck charm than anything.” *Submissions were lightly edited for readability and anonymity.  (Identified by Benjamin Lowry aka @submersiblewrist) READ NEXT: Vietnam MACV-SOG Seikos: Setting The Record Straight 

Over the past decade, just about every detail of Operation Neptune Spear, the Navy SEAL raid that brought Usama bin Laden to justice, has been recounted. The service members involved, the elusive stealth Black Hawk helicopters, the quad NODs, have all become objects of intrigue and some have risen to iconic status. But one detail we all missed is the Rolex Submariner on the wrist of one of the operators. This detail surprised us here at W.O.E.  Why was it worn on this raid? Was it for Escape and Evasion- a potential bartering tool?  Was it chosen for its robustness as a mechanical timepiece, mitigating the risk of battery failure? The answer is actually simple–but far more profound.  The SEAL wearing the Sub, Will Chesney, believed he was going to die that night in Pakistan. Chesney reasoned that he might as well take his most meaningful watch with him for his final ride. He bluntly told W.O.E. that, “the watch would burn up with me.”  Like many of the warriors on the helicopters that morning, Chesney thought they would either be shot down by the Pakistani air defense or blown up once inside bin Laden’s compound.  He was acutely aware of the latter, as it was in part his job to mitigate that specific risk. Cairo and Chesney training at the command in Virginia Beach (Photo Credit: Chesney) Operation Neptune Spear, Abbottabad, Pakistan:  In the wee hours on May 2nd, 2011 Chesney rushed out of the helicopter just outside bin Laden’s compound in Abbottabad, Pakistan. Locating bin Laden took almost ten years; ever since 2001 the US had been trying to track down his whereabouts. Finally, the time had come to strike. Chesney had two things he cherished with him: the Submariner on his wrist, but more importantly, one of the most important members of the team: a 70 lb Belgian Malinois named Cairo.  Chesney humbly described his job as “babysitting” the highly trained combat assault dog, but the task was crucial.  The duo screened the perimeter of the compound for Improvised Explosive Devices (IEDs) before moving inside with the team to sweep the compound for explosives or hidden rooms.  Like the men on the mission, Cairo was a seasoned operator with multiple combat deployments. In fact, the dog was shot twice during an operation in Afghanistan less than two years prior. Media would quickly report on the presence of Cairo, including sensational claims that the dog had titanium teeth, one of the many inconsistencies that would lead Chesney to write a book, No Ordinary Dog, in an effort to document the history and honor the legacy of his best friend. Red Squadron “Red Man” patch on Cairo’s vest, the same emblem engraved by the SEAL armorers on the Rolex Submariner's caseback.   The Rolex Submariner: Like Cairo, the Submariner was no ordinary Rolex. It was a late 2000s no-date reference 14060, the last classic Submariner with the traditional aluminum bezel insert and drilled lugs.  During a 2009 visit to the Command’s armorer, Chesney laser engraved the caseback with the “Red Man'' insignia of the famed Red Squadron, the same patch on Cairo’s harness. Chesney acquired the Rolex as a present to himself when he passed screening for Naval Special Warfare Development Group (DEVGRU) in 2008.  Chesney was aware of the history between Rolex and the SEAL Teams, but was ultimately drawn to the brand for what Rolex represented; it was a reliable and “cool” piece.  Chesney grew up in a trailer park in Southeast Texas where, like most places around the world, Rolex stood out as a particular luxury. The Rolex Submariner reference 14060, Chesney’s Trident and a metal tin containing the ashes of Cairo. (Photo Credit: Chesney) Rolex- The Symbol of Achievement: For decades, men have memorialized professional accomplishments with the purchase of a Rolex, be it a promotion, the closing of a big deal, or retirement. Chesney was no different. Only this “professional accomplishment” that Chesney achieved in 2008 was passing “selection” and being accepted into SEAL Team Six. Chesney was one of the youngest SEALs to make it through the 50-60% attrition rate. The “Training Team” screens for the “best of the best” SEALs and like the others trying out for the Command, Chesney had multiple prior combat deployments with SEAL Team 4. Chesney and Cairo on a helicopter in Afghanistan. (Photo Credit: Chesney) After Chesney completed the selection, he visited a Rolex Authorized Dealer in Virginia Beach and quickly settled on the no-date Submariner, purchasing it new and walking out with it that same day.  In contrast to those we have previously profiled, the Submariner was not a daily wear and with the exception of the bin Laden raid, he did not wear it operationally.  Chesney reserved the timepiece for special occasions, which included traveling to and from every deployment.  He would wear it on the plane, but once he arrived in Afghanistan, he would replace the Submariner with a digital Suunto or Garmin, a far more practical tool for a 21st century assaulter.  When it was time to go home, the Rolex would come out of his bag and back on his wrist.  It was a ritual and a reminder of his accomplishments. Chesney with Cairo after being shot in Afghanistan during the search for Bowe Bergdahl in June 2009.  (Photo Credit: Chesney) Captain Phillips Rescue, Indian Ocean: Reflecting on his career and the role the watch played, Chesney said he had two regrets.  He wished he had purchased a date Submariner, as this would have been more practical, and he wished he had worn the watch on the rescue of Captain Phillips, another historic hostage rescue operation of the famed squadron.  At the time, the clasp was loose and Chesney was concerned that if he had jumped out of the plane, the watch could have come off and fallen into the Indian Ocean.  As a practical man, he reflected that he easily could and should have taped the watch to his wrist. Abbottabad Compound, Pakistan (Photo Credit: AP) Usama bin Laden: Prior to leaving for Afghanistan to take part in Operation Neptune Spear, Chesney made the conscious decision to wear the Rolex for this historic mission.  He knew the polished steel watch wasn’t “tactical,” but he didn’t care. He was going to die anyway, he reasoned.  Like the other members of the team, he extended his life insurance policy to prepare for this eventuality.  During a recent conversation, Chesney reflected, “I thought it would be fitting to wear the watch on that operation since it was my gift to myself for making it there, and I figured we wouldn’t be making it back so I might as well die with it on.” Chesney briefly considered that the watch could be used as a bartering tool if he was stuck across the border in Pakistan, but was quick to say that he would never give the watch up, implying that he would die fighting. The role the watch played was more symbolic than practical. Rolex and Navy SEALs: The symbolism of the Rolex Submariner on one of the most historic Special Operations missions is profound.  Watch culture is strong in the Naval Special Warfare community and Chesney’s Navy SEAL predecessors wore similar watches– both Rolex and Tudor Submariners as they operated in Vietnam 40 years prior.  The founder of SEAL Team Six, Dick Marcinko, wore a no-date Tudor Submariner, not dissimilar to the Rolex worn by Chesney that night.  Many SEALs commemorated their graduation from BUD/S or other operational accomplishments with a Rolex Sub. Rolex and SEAL Trident next to Cairo’s ashes. (Photo Credit: Chesney) Fortunately, Chesney’s ill-fated premonition did not become reality.  Chesney and the team successfully brought the world's most wanted man to justice and returned safely to Bagram Airbase.  Days later, Chesney would wear the Submariner to meet President Obama and Vice President Biden, both of whom were insistent they get a picture with Cairo, the only member of the Team whose name had been released at the time. Chesney and Cairo meeting President Obama and Vice President Biden after Operation Neptune Spear. (Photo Credit: Chesney) But for Chesney, the fight was far from over.  Chesney would redeploy and ultimately earn a Purple Heart from a 2013 grenade attack in Afghanistan. Chesney details his personal struggle with traumatic brain injury and post-traumatic stress, and credits his relationship with Cairo as a key tool in supporting his recovery.  After Cairo was retired, the Navy allowed Chesney to adopt him.  Cairo passed away after a battle with cancer in 2015, and Chesney was by his side. Today, the Submariner is still reserved for special occasions.  The watch is in need of service, but Chesney is concerned that the Red Man insignia will be removed from the caseback. Chesney would like to potentially add to the caseback, subtly honoring friends lost during the past two decades of conflict.  The piece itself will remain an heirloom: the watch will be passed down to future generations as a way to continue to honor what his team –and Cairo– accomplished that night in Abbottabad.   Rolex and SEAL Trident next to Cairo’s ashes. (Photo Credit: Chesney) Chesney’s book, No Ordinary Dog, is a powerful read that explores the genuine emotional bond between a warrior and his military working dog. As Chesney summarizes, “Cairo was my dog. And I was his dad. I don’t use that term euphemistically. The relationship between a handler and a canine SEAL is profound and intimate. It goes well beyond friendship and the usual ties that bind man to dog.”  The book also explores both Chesney’s and Cairo’s difficulties transitioning from years of sustained combat. In addition to the book, Chesney supports several nonprofits for both veterans and Military Working Dogs, and he specifically highlighted Warrior Health Foundation, Spike’s K-9 Fund as a particularly impactful organization. -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.  READ NEXT: SEAL Team Six And A U.S. Navy-Issued Seiko Turtle

In the 1970s, CIA Technical Officers modified a digital Seiko to conceal a Tropel T-100 camera inside.  The purpose of the watch-turned-espionage-tool was to allow a recruited agent to surreptitiously photograph classified documents in their place of work and deliver them to CIA.  The camera was so quiet that it could be used to photograph documents within a KGB Rezidentura or other sensitive buildings while unknowing co-workers were just feet away. The Silver Screen vs Reality: Hollywood's depiction of spy gadgets embedded in a Rolex Submariner or Omega Seamaster is entertaining, but largely a fantasy of the  screenwriter's imagination.  In fact, there were very few times in my career as a CIA Case Officer that I used “spy gear” and instead largely relied on low-tech tradecraft to build relationships, recruit spies, and steal secrets. US Embassy Moscow- Cold War  That said, technology plays a significant role in the espionage trade from both an offensive (collection) and defensive (counterintelligence) standpoint in the modern era.  Historically, spy gadgetry was a crucial tool in the “great game” of the Cold War where both the Soviet Union’s KGB and CIA leveraged cutting edge technologies– including miniature cameras and audio recording devices– to collect intelligence and thwart hostile surveillance.  In order to mask these capabilities, pieces of surveillance technology were often housed in “Concealment Devices,” seemingly benign objects that could be carried by the Agent into sensitive government facilities.  In some now-declassified cases, a timepiece was used as either a passive or active concealment device to hide the presence of the espionage tool. U.S. Representative to the United Nations Henry Cabot Lodge Jr. points to a hole for a concealed listening device in the U.S. Great Seal (a gift from the Soviets to the UNSC).  (Photo Credit: Getty) In the niche genre of Watches of Espionage, it is important to understand these historical references.  We will periodically profile some of these watches, their relevance, and the impact they had on intelligence collection. The Real Q-Branch: In most spy movies, there is a “Q:” a fictional character responsible for providing the lead “spy” with the latest and greatest technological advancements.  In obvious foreshadowing, the issued gear (often a luxury timepiece with spy gear embedded) will later play a significant role in the movie during a pivotal scene where the spy escapes a deadly situation or finally gets even with the villain. While I never met an individual “Q” at CIA, there are several offices dedicated to developing, testing, and fielding technologies for intelligence collection.  During the Cold War, this office was known as the Office of Technical Service (OTS) positioned within the Directorate of Science & Technology (DS&T). Modified Seiko Housing T-100 Camera: In the mid-1970s OTS technical officers reportedly modified an off-the-shelf Seiko LCD-equipped model (reference unknown) to conceal a Tropel T-100 camera inside.  The watch worked by “active concealment,” meaning it functioned normally when the camera lens was not visible.  When the asset–or a recruited agent–rotated the dial nearly 180 degrees it exposed the aperture at the 6 o'clock position.  A button at the 4 o'clock position activated the shutter to take the picture.  (Photo Credit: Ultimate Spy, Keith Melton) According to intelligence historian Keith Melton, the camera held a 15-inch strip of auto-advancing film and could capture 100 high resolution images. The purpose of the tool was to allow an asset or agent to surreptitiously photograph classified documents in their place of work.  The camera did not require an auto-focus mechanism and could effectively take pictures of standard-sized documents when held approximately 11 inches off the desk, which was about the length of an average adult male's elbow to hand.  The camera was so quiet that it could be used to photograph documents within a KGB Rezidentura or other sensitive buildings while unknowing co-workers were just feet away. OTS produced instructions showing an Asset how to use the T-100 key fob model.  Instructions also showed agents “how to hide the camera in a fist held to the forehead while seated–as if they were reading, not photographing.” (Photo Credit: Ultimate Spy, Keith Melton)  While the watch concealment is interesting in itself, the T-100 subminiature camera was the real technological feat at work.  Despite its size, it was designed to take distortion-free images the size of a single page of text using retired stock film first used in spy satellites. In contrast to the movies, where a piece of gear was issued “just in case,” the tiny camera was purpose-built for intelligence collection and issued only to the most sensitive CIA assets operating behind the Iron Curtain. The tool was designed and produced by an outside contractor who painstakingly assembled the shutter components and lenses the size of a pinhead. As Robert Wallace and Melton would later recall in Spycraft, the Secret History of the CIA’s Spytechs, “the T-100’s assembly was closer to watchmaking than any commercial manufacturing process. The owner of the company fabricated each camera himself under a large magnifying glass and halo light using a device he built specifically for the task.”  T-100 concealed in cricket lighter (Photo Credit: Ultimate Spy, Keith Melton) Looking at the watch, it’s tempting to conclude that it looked semi-futuristic for the 1970s and that this might cause counterintelligence concerns for an asset back then.  But the Seiko was created, or modified, during an important time in horology history: the Quartz Crisis.  During the Digital Revolution of the late 1960s, the development of the quartz watch resulted in a transition in the market from mechanical watches to quartz movements and eventually, digital displays with the Pulsar in 1972. This quick shift was dubbed the “quartz crisis,” where many consumers moved to the cheaper more accurate timepieces and there was a dramatic decline in the traditional, mechanically-driven Swiss watch industry.  Seiko, credited with developing the first quartz movement, was one of the first brands to embrace the new technology and produced several LCD screen watches similar to the one used by CIA.   While we have not identified this exact reference, there are several Seiko watches from the era that match the similar design, including this 1975 Seiko 0114-0010 Quartz LC.  The exact reference likely would have been procured in the Soviet Union before being shipped back to the U.S. for modification, so as not to raise questions why a Soviet official would be wearing an imported watch. Again, details matter.  1975 Seiko 0114-0010 Quartz LC (Photo Credit: Ebay) Interestingly, it was in this time period (in 1977) that the Bond franchise integrated the first Seiko into the mix in The Spy Who Loved Me.  Bond, played by Roger Moore, wore a modified Seiko 0674 LC, which contained a miniature printer to receive messages from his headquarters in the UK. CIA has been known to take inspiration from Hollywood, and whether this was life imitating art or the other way around, we can only speculate. What is uncertain is whether the CIA-modified Seiko was actually used by an asset during the Cold War or if this was a prototype that never made it to the field.  While much of the information from this time period has been declassified or leaked, there is no public information available indicating it was issued to an asset for operational use. What we do know is that the camera itself, the T-100, was particularly effective at collecting intelligence and was dubbed by some as the "camera that won the Cold War."  There are documented examples of both the T-100 and later the T-50 being issued to assets housed in fountain pens, keychains and lighters and capturing images that were later passed on to the CIA handling Case Officer. Tropel Camera Housed in Fountain Pen, Image courtesy of International Spy Museum. READ NEXT: The Lasting Legacy Of The CIA’s Lockheed A-12 And The Watch That Served It   This Dispatch has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

Prince Harry has worn at least four watches with strong military ties: a Pulsar G10, Rolex Explorer II, custom Breitling Aerospace Avantage, and even a Casio G-Shock.

You don’t mess with tradition. It’s a critical piece of culture, particularly in the Intelligence and Special Operations communities, and serves as a reminder of those who have come before us, and those who will come after us—that we’re all tied together. We’re all part of the same mission. 

In this edition of the Dispatch, we address some common questions we get about W.O.E with an in-depth response. Many of these responses can even serve as standalone stories– and probably will at some point, but for now, here’s some additional insight on Watches of Espionage.  READ PART II HERE What’s a good entry-level watch? What’s a good watch under $1,000? This is the most common question we get, and we love this question because it suggests that the W.O.E. platform is opening up people to the world of mechanical watches, something that we are clearly passionate about. If your takeaway from W.O.E. is that you need a Rolex to be a cool guy, you’re missing the point. We believe the man makes the watch, not the other way around.  A badass wearing a Hublot is still a badass, just as a dweeb wearing a Rolex MilSub is still just a dweeb. It’s about who you are, not the watch you’re wearing.  Read: Best Watches Under $1,000 - Ask The Experts (Photo Credit: James Rupley) There are plenty of great watches under $1,000 and other publications have compiled lists that feature both established manufacturers and micro-brands alike that offer serious value.  That said, our answer to this question is simple: Seiko. If you like “Watches of Espionage” then you will love this brand. When it comes to tools actually used in the field, you’re likely to find a Seiko on a professional’s wrist. Seiko, after all, is the “Toyota of watches”– they’re cheap and reliable utilitarian tools. For the same reasons Toyotas are a common sight in modern conflict zones, Seikos have adorned the wrists of hard men in hard places for decades. If you’re looking at dipping your toe in the proverbial pool of mechanical watches, this is a great place to start, and even end. Arabic Dial Seiko (Photo Credit: James Rupley) The follow-up question is always, "which model?" We hesitate to provide an answer to this because it’s a deeply personal choice.  You can scroll through our collection and others and see where we have landed, but it’s best to take some time and look through the website to see what speaks to you and what’s within your budget. The best way to land on the right reference is to find a Seiko dealer near you, try some on, and ask questions. You can get an entry-level Seiko for well under $300 and I cherish mine just as much as I do my most expensive Rolex. Unfortunately, one of the downsides to Seiko is that the bracelets are the weak point. They have a specific “jangle” and can feel like they’re of much lesser quality than that watch they’re attached to.  So use some of that leftover coin to buy a few straps and change them out frequently to figure out what you like.  All the W.O.E. products are designed to be worn/used with a Seiko or a Rolex. We will do a follow-on Dispatch at some point with some tips on buying watches with value in mind. What advice do you have for someone looking to join the CIA? The second most common question we get is, "How do I join the CIA?" While the purpose of this platform isn’t to inspire the next generation of public servants, we are quickly learning this is a byproduct of W.O.E., which is great. If you want to join the CIA, don't message someone anonymously claiming to be former CIA.  Keep this goal private and practice discretion. The Agency values discretion, hence the label of a quiet professional. Here are a few pieces of advice for those interested in the operational side of the house. Become a master of a trade. CIA hires former teachers, investment bankers, plumbers, businessmen, SpecOps, doctors, lawyers, and even professional athletes. Become unique and accomplished. Have a compelling story that will interest the CIA recruiter.  You can apply right out of college, but your chances of being accepted and thriving at the Agency will greatly increase if you have unique work/life experience. Travel. Live, work and study abroad. The one common trait of 99% of CIA Case Officers is that they have significant prior overseas experience. Your job is to understand geopolitics and empathize with individuals different from you.  This can only truly be learned and demonstrated through experience. Even if you aren't interested in joining the CIA, we still think we would all be better off if we travel and experience different cultures. Learn a language. Any language is advantageous, but the harder the better. Russian, Mandarin, Persian/Farsi, Korean etc. Turn on the news and see where the current/future conflicts are. The languages spoken in that area are generally of high interest and will make a CIA recruiter happy. Keep your nose clean. You don't have to be a saint (I saw the inside of a jail cell a couple times growing up and made more than a few bad decisions). But if you do drugs, stop. Don't drink and drive. Pay your taxes. Don't commit felonies. This is all good advice for joining the CIA, but even better advice for life. READ. This one is important. Read every book/article on the intelligence business you can find. This will help you figure out if it is right for you and where your interests are aligned. The current generation has a wealth of information at their fingertips on the Intelligence Community, including on the CIA’s own website.  Take advantage of this information and do your research. If you are a foreigner, find an unattributable internet portal and google  "CIA walk in." Lastly, a career as a Case Officer is more than just a job, it’s a calling and a way of life.  You have to be all in and cannot treat it like a 9-to-5. CIA is not perfect, but I loved my time working in the building and in the field.  It is not always an easy lifestyle and comes with unique challenges, but it is a great opportunity to serve your country, see the world and live a life worth living.  Happy hunting. What watch did you wear most operationally? In my initial Hodinkee article, “The Connection Between Watches and Espionage,” which was in many ways W.O.E.’s debut to the larger watch community, I wrote about wearing my titanium Panerai Luminor Marina 8 Day during a military coup in Africa. The opening story was a relatively mundane night, no heroic activities, just a standard night as a Case Officer operating in Africa. The only reason I even remember that watch that night was that it was relatively new, and the luminous numbers stuck out. In fact, I could have written that story about countless nights wearing several watches. W.O.E.’s personal IWC Mark XVII and Africa Division challenge coin. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) But, looking back at pictures of the years I was at CIA, the most common watch on my wrist appeared to be an IWC Mark XVII.  It is a great and versatile watch that can fit in with a suit and tie at a diplomatic function in Europe or jeans and a dirty t-shirt in the African bush.  It is also not overly flashy and would not draw undue attention.  W.O.E.'s IWC with W.O.E. DNC strap prototype (Photo Credit: Michael Shaffer / @capitolsunset) Truth is, I did not put much thought into my watch while overseas; it was a tool I used regularly.  This IWC has three letters engraved on the back, only one of which is one of my initials. The engraving caused some problems during a training exercise and then when I was (REDACTED) pulled into secondary for additional “screening” (interrogation).  Fortunately, I had come up with a cover story for the three letters as the initials of a fictitious father prior to the training exercise and it was not a significant issue.  It was a good lesson and reminder that the smallest details matter in the world of espionage. W.O.E.'s Breitling Aerospace (Photo Credit: Tom Brenner) A close second was the Breitling Aerospace that I received as a gift from King Abdullah of Jordan.  This is an entirely practical watch given the digital feature set.  The digital timer was particularly useful and was used to log activities during surveillance operations in African capitals, time debriefings of ISIS members, and to record legs of Surveillance Detection Runs. How do Case Officers, Special Operations personnel, etc. afford a Rolex? First, not every HUMINT collector or military “operator” wears a mechanical timepiece, let alone a luxury watch like Rolex, Breitling or Tudor.  It is easy to get this impression given the content at W.O.E., as there is a clear selection bias for the stories we tell.  While this was largely true in the mid-20th century when many of these watches were issued and/or easily purchased at the local PX, today the vast majority of "operators” rely on cheap and effective digital tool watches.  That said, there is a strong watch culture in both the military and intelligence circles, and the percentage of individuals that have mechanical and even luxury “tool watches” likely exceeds that of the civilian counterparts of the same socioeconomic status.  The reason for this is just as much (if not more) culture than anything else. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Second, not all mechanical or even luxury timepieces cost $10,000.  As discussed above, quality Seiko tool watches can be purchased for well under $1,000 and brands like Breitling, Panerai, IWC, Tudor and many others can be acquired second-hand for a fraction of the inflated prices of Rolex. So how do we afford them? The short answer is, the same as everyone else.  Contrary to many Hollywood representations of CIA officers, the majority of Case Officers I worked with did not come from elite Ivy League backgrounds or wealthy families.  They work hard and save up.  If you have spent the last 10-20 years in an operational capacity, you have likely spent several years deployed to a conflict or other hardship post and the government has compensated you (relatively) appropriately.  While you will not become rich from this calling, you will likely have earned enough disposable income and it can be used at your discretion to fund your hobbies and interests. Many choose to use some of the funds to purchase a watch. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) One example of this is the “war zone watch.” While a government salary does not support an extensive watch collection, when officers deploy to war zones for an extended period, their pay can almost double while their personal expenses are minimized. After returning from Iraq, Afghanistan, or one of the undeclared expeditionary locations, many officers take a portion of their savings and purchase a watch to discreetly commemorate the accomplishment. Further, as much as we all can’t stand the black box of who gets priority on the Authorized Dealers (AD) “waiting list”, the stores and sometimes even individual sales associates have significant leeway with whom they prioritize as customers.  Some ADs in Northern Virginia and metropolitan areas near large military bases prioritize clientele from military and government agencies. Why are you anonymous? I get the impression that a lot of people think the main reason behind W.O.E. being anonymous is because of OPSEC (operational security).  In reality, when I left CIA, I requested that my association with the Agency be declassified.  This was approved with certain stipulations/restrictions. W.O.E.’s hands busy influencing. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) The real reason “W.O.E.” is anonymous is twofold.  First, “Watches of Espionage” is not about one person, it’s about our entire community.  “W.O.E.” is the curator or the “guide” on this journey, but it’s not just about me.  I insert some of my own experiences and stories for context or to demonstrate a point but that’s it–it’s strictly to add additional information.  In fact, if you read the articles where my personal experiences are mentioned, I am not the hero; they’re relatively mundane experiences of a CIA Case Officer.  Secondly, I value my privacy.  I don’t want to be famous or an internet celebrity in either the watch or tactical community. That’s just not for me.  Additionally, being anonymous ironically allows me to be more authentic in my presentation of my watch collection and love of timepieces.  Posting expensive watches on social media can often accurately be interpreted as a “flex” or show-off and can quickly fall into “cringe” territory. Being anonymous allows me to show whatever I want without any of the added recognition.  What watch would you recommend for a woman in the field? “W.O.E. Mansplains What Watches Women Should Wear” is what I would call this article. Truth is, I am not qualified to really comment on this topic.  Check out Brynn Wallner who runs a platform called Dimepiece Co. if you are a woman interested in getting into watches.  She does a great job curating content specifically for women and is a disruptor in this industry. Homeland, not an accurate portrayal of female Case Officers (Photo Credit: HBO, Homeland) Traditionally there have been men’s and women's watches.  To simplify a complicated topic, men’s watches are generally larger and women’s smaller.  Recently there has been a movement to remove gender from watches and make them all unisex.  While we won’t take a position on this hyper-sensitive debate, we will say that there is no reason a woman couldn’t and shouldn’t wear a traditional men’s timepiece.  Mrs. W.O.E.'s current go-to timepiece is a Tudor Black Bay 58, one that many may say is a traditional men’s watch.  Likewise, some men appreciate and even prefer smaller timepieces that some may perceive as women’s watches.  More power to you. Wear whatever you want.  What is your grail watch? A “grail watch” is the ultimate watch for a collector, something that they would never sell if they were able to acquire it.  Like the “holy grail”, this watch is often unattainable, or incredibly unlikely to obtain. It is more of a fantasy than a realistic goal. Photo Credit: Tudor Collector, Ross Povey W.O.E.’s grail is a military-issued Tudor Submariner, specifically a South African military-issued Tudor Sub from the 1970s.  While I have no affinity for the South African Defence Force (especially from that time frame), I have spent much of my life living and working on the continent and would find the connection meaningful.  Pictured above is one of the few known watches, a 1974 South African Navy Issued Black Tudor Submariner 7016.  I want to do a full deep dive Dispatch article on this, if nothing else to build my knowledge base. Why do you not have a G-Shock in your collection? The Casio G-Shock is a great watch and if you are in a tactical or operational position, it’s hard to beat as a tool watch.  For deployed paramilitary officers or uniformed military personnel conducting direct action and kicking in doors it is a fantastic tool.  The same for Garmin, Suunto, Timex and the plethora of other digital pieces. There are some downsides, most notably the requirement for a battery, but they are cheap and relatively indestructible. Additionally, G-Shocks also have a cult following in the watch community and there are many collectible references and collaborations.  So why doesn’t W.O.E. have one in the toolbox? While it is ideal for military personnel, the Casio G-Shock is a clear “tell” for Americans to wear overseas.  For Case Officers, who mostly operate in capital cities while under cover (i.e. posing as something they aren’t) this watch can make one stick out as much as a gold Rolex Daytona. A decade ago I was posted overseas in a major African capital.  The conflicts in Iraq and Afghanistan were dying down, but the “Global War on Terror” was still in full swing and a priority for the USG.  Department of Defense personnel had flooded into Africa to conduct overt military assistance to host country nations.  One night I was out for drinks with an early local contact at a high-end hotel when a group of civilian-clothed USMIL personnel walked in. Tactical? (Photo Credit: Casio) My contact, who was not yet aware of my Agency affiliation, eyed the group as they took their seats at the bar and proudly said, “There are some of your spies, you can always spot American spies, they have beards and wear large plastic watches on the inside of their wrists.”  I don’t remember what watch I was wearing that night, but I do know it wasn’t a large black tactical watch.  It would have been something that supported my cover as an American (REDACTED). Navy SEALs conducting VBSS while wearing G-Shock, likely DW-6600 (Photo Credit: US Navy) We have detailed the role digital watches play in espionage and regardless of one’s horological interests or occupation, a cheap and reliable digital timepiece is a must in any collection.  My go-to is a Timex Ironman, which I use for PT and other water activities when I want to record specific times. Would you wear another unit’s unit watch? Does this qualify as stolen Valor? We have written extensively about unit watches and there are some cool references like the SAS Explorer II that sometimes show up for sale or auction.  While it is unfortunate that some operators choose to part with these meaningful timepieces, we also understand that life circumstances change, and the astronomical secondary market can become irresistible. Special Air Service Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570 (Photo Credit: Sotheby’s) Short answer is yes, I would wear another unit’s watch and I do not view this as stolen valor.  For example, if someone gave me the SAS Rolex Explorer II (I couldn’t afford or want to spend the asking price), I would wear it.  In fact, the watch ending up with a true collector who appreciates the history and meaning behind a unit watch is probably a good thing.  The caveat to all of this is that it all comes down to intention: if someone uses the watch to attempt to convince someone that they served in a specific unit when they did not, of course that is taboo.  But there are far easier and more effective forms of stolen valor than spending a small fortune on a collectable timepiece.  What are your opinions on smart watches? This is a fascinating topic and something I will dive into deeper in a future Dispatch, a lot to unpack here.  First, in general we are not against smart watches, in my post-government life I have worked in emerging technology and the benefits of “wearables” including smart watches are immense.  Even though they are contrary to much of what we put out at W.O.E., smart watches are great tools, providing immediate and actionable data to increase your health, productivity, and situational awareness. Apple Watch (Photo Credit: Apple) That said, for people in the business of espionage, smart watches and the internet of things (IoT) have profound counterintelligence implications and are not ideal.  For one, wireless devices are not permitted in SCIFs (sensitive compartmented information facility) so they are not even an option for most while at work.  Secondly, as previously documented, smart devices are certainly not a spy’s best friend. When wading through a Middle Eastern souk trying to detect and avoid hostile intelligence services, wearing a beacon with a microphone that tracks your every move, on your wrist or in your pocket, simply is not acceptable. Secret Australian government installation on the Strava heat map showing routes of staff movements logged in the app. (Photo Credit: Daily Mail / Strava) In late-2017, open-source fitness tracker data was used to reveal the location of sensitive military locations in countries including Syria, Niger, and Afghanistan. A reliable timepiece is a necessity to ensure you conduct your operational act (agent meeting) at the exact time and place without leaving behind a digital footprint that can be pieced together by a competent hostile intelligence service. Sometimes it’s best to do things the old-fashioned way. Again, this is a great topic and something we will flesh this out in more detail in a future Dispatch. Read More: CIA Officers And Apple Watches What is a modern MACV-SOG Seiko? As documented in the Dispatch: Vietnam MACV-SOG Seikos: Setting The Record Straight, “SOG Seikos” are one of the greatest historical examples of “Watches of Espionage.”  They are procured using black budget funds and issued to SOG operators as sterile and untraceable equipment. Seiko’s cult-like following combined with military historians’ fascination with SOG has made the MACV-SOG Seikos incredibly collectable (i.e. expensive).   While the prices of the MACV-SOG Seikos have recently skyrocketed to well over $1,000 if you can even find them, for those interested in purchasing a modern version, the SNK381K1 is as close as it gets. At 37mm, it is smaller than most modern watches, but throw it on a green nylon strap, add a tactical compass, and you can play the part. W.O.E.’s personal modern MACV-SOG, Seiko SNK381K1 If you really want to signal to others that you are a tactical watch bro, wear it on the inside of your wrist like John Stryker Meyer did in Vietnam. Like most Seikos, it is relatively affordable and you should be sub-$200 all in. Pretty cool watch.  Do you plan to restock straps, cases etc? Yes, all of our products are hand made in the US/UK so they take time and cannot be mass produced. We are working on some unique and innovative things for 2023 and will announce them in the newsletter.  We should have a large release of W.O.E. Travel Pouches in late January/early February and we are really excited about the leather straps later in February.  The next release of the W.O.E. Z.A. Straps is TBD.  Sign up for “Notify Me When Available” for anything that interests you. (HINT-HINT)  More to come! Thanks for the support. Read Next: The Connection Between Watches And Espionage This Dispatch has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

In 1957 Clarence “Kelly” Johnson, the leader of aircraft manufacturer Lockheed’s Advanced Development program dubbed Skunk Works, knew satellites would make reconnaissance aircraft obsolete in the near future. It was determined that the U-2 spy plane, which Johnson had worked on, had a radar cross section that was simply too large to operate completely undetected. Three years later one flown by pilot Gary Powers would be shot down in Soviet Airspace and he would be captured and charged with espionage. The price of human life was simply too high to pay, and with the Cold War in full swing, US intelligence-gathering operations were necessary to keep an edge over the nuclear-capable Soviets. This meant that significant investments were being made in satellite technology to solve these problems, but the technology wasn’t quite where it needed to be just yet. That day would come, but the impending obsolescence of aircraft built for reconnaissance didn’t stop Johnson from spearheading one last effort: Project Oxcart.  Richard Bissell was the CIA officer responsible for facilitating the successor to the U-2. He oversaw Project Gusto, which was a committee set up to explore all possible solutions to the dynamic need for a next-generation aerial reconnaissance platform. Lockheed’s submission won out over Convair’s designs derived from the B-58 Hustler, and the A-12 project was funded and kicked off.  The A-12 had its maiden flight on April 25th, 1962, and subsequently carried out 2,850 test flights before its first official mission on May 31st, 1967. Ironically, the A-12 never carried out any overflights of the Soviet Union or Cuba, which is exactly what it was intended for. The CIA found another use for the plane: to spy on North Vietnam. Departing from Kadena Air Base in Japan, the A-12 performed 22 sorties gathering intelligence on the movements of North Vietnamese forces. The project wasn’t all for naught, however. The development of the A-12 led to the creation of the SR-71, the often-celebrated and easily recognizable icon that’s wrongly dubbed “the fastest airplane ever to have graced our skies” even though that honor officially belongs to the A-12 at just over Mach 3.3. While the A-12 was born and died in secrecy being owned and operated by the CIA, the SR-71 was the product of the USAF. Both carried out surveillance overflights, but the SR-71 was fit for a wider range of missions, not to mention a two-seat configuration for a reconnaissance officer. The plane featured a modular system in the nose-mounted equipment bay that allowed for ELINT and SLR data to be collected. ELINT is electronic intelligence, while SLR is side-looking radar, and the added benefit of gathering additional intelligence meant that the SR-71 had a much longer service life and participated in just about every single conflict up until 1989, until they were retired.  The A-12 on display at CIA Headquarters — number eight in production of the 15 A-12s built — was the first of the operational fleet to be certified for Mach 3. No piloted operational jet aircraft has ever flown faster or higher. (Photo Credit: CIA) And that’s why it has become perhaps the most prominent military aircraft ever produced. It’s become a symbol for superlative, next-generation technology and a very specific can-do attitude of the mid-century era that simply doesn’t exist anymore. Budgets be damned, the Blackbird was going to be the most capable airplane ever. And it was. It’s a flying superlative.  However, the watch that’s most typically associated with the A-12 is anything but iconic, instead it’s been relegated to enjoyment by a very niche community of die-hards. Although what it lacks in popularity it more than makes up for in technical prowess. The Bulova Astronaut was a perfect horological fit for the A-12; both platforms were so far ahead of their time that neither of the core technologies they introduced stuck around long after they were gone. The Astronaut used the Accutron tuning fork movement, which predated quartz and proved to be accurate to one second a month. It didn’t have a balance assembly (or mainspring), instead it used a tuning fork oscillator that vibrated at 360hz. If we think in terms of a “propulsion system,” the tuning fork movement was congruent to the SR-71’s J58 engine that pioneered a system that essentially turned it from a standard jet engine at lower speed to a ramjet engine above Mach 2.  Bulova Accutron Astronaut, late 1960s (W.O.E.s Personal Collection) Both the tuning fork mechanism and the J58 were engineering marvels that excelled at capturing and controlling energy and bending it to humankind’s will. The Bulova Accutron Astronaut even emits a high-pitch whine that’s straight out of a sci-fi movie.  The advantage of the tuning fork movement for an A-12 pilot is that there isn’t a balance spring that G forces would be able to affect, and in an airplane that can go over Mach 3, G forces are a crucial concern for a mechanical watch. Accutron movements proved effective and reliable for most of NASA’s cockpit instrumentation in the Gemini rockets, and later, the Apollo program. The CIA supplied the A-12 pilots with the Bulova and when the program ended, the watches stayed with the pilots. Vintage Watch Advertisement, 1969 (W.O.E.s Personal Collection) In typical CIA fashion, the Agency cared nothing about the absolute technical and engineering achievement of both the A-12 and the Bulova Astronaut. They were tools to get the mission done. If there was a cheaper or more effective tool available to execute the mission, those would be chosen, and eventually, they were. Quartz watches replaced the tuning fork movement, and more conventional propulsion systems were favored over the complex retracting inlet cone system that allowed Mach 3+ flight on the Blackbird.  The existence and disappearance of both these technical marvels serves as a reminder that no matter how much we romanticize or idolize incredible technology, it’s all in service of a larger mission: Giving America a competitive advantage when it comes to national security. The rest is just an added bonus. Read Next: Man O'War And The Horological Symbols That Inspire Us

By Benjamin Lowry One thousand yards of open ocean undulated gently between US Navy SEAL David Hall and the dim lights of the Haitian shoreline. Wearing little more than woodland cammies, a Boonie hat, and a modified hunting life jacket, Hall glanced at the luminescent display of his Luminox watch and slipped quietly into the temperate waters of the Caribbean Sea. While warm, the water was acrid, stinking of ammonia and decomposition. As he began finning, open fires burned suspiciously on the proposed invasion beaches, their faint glimmer visible in the eyes of the two other SEALs finning away to Hall’s right and left.  Hall and swim buddy, just before the Haiti operation. A fortuitous low-lying fog hung over the water at the insertion point, making their approach virtually undetectable. After a military coup in 1991 ousted Haiti’s first democratically-elected president, Jean-Bertrand Aristide, a Clinton-led United States initiated Operation Uphold Democracy in 1994, a military and diplomatic intervention intended to restore order and democracy to the embattled island nation. Hall’s US Navy SEAL Team EIGHT was tasked with conducting detailed reconnaissance of several Haitian beachheads to ensure the safe landing of an impending US Marine Corps invading force.  Approximately 200 yards in, Hall’s swim buddy became entangled on a submerged fishing net that was being pulled in by an unseen dugout canoe. Hall closed in to assist his struggling swim buddy, miraculously freeing him while remaining unseen by the two Haitians in the boat. Once freed, Hall and two other SEALs swam to chest-deep water before being surrounded by several dugouts manned by Haitian civilians tasked with locating and reporting exactly this type of activity. In the kind of pitch blackness only offered by the sea on a moonless foggy night, one of the enemy dugouts drifted close enough to sense the presence of Hall’s three-man element.  Thanks to four years of high school French, Hall understood well enough when one of the fishermen whispered, “Homme, qu’est-ce que tu fais dans l’eau?” (“Man, what are you doing in the water?”) in a lazy blend of French and Creole. Hearing the selector switches of his teammates' silenced MP5s click from “safe” to “fire” and feeling their backs move against his own, Hall remembered their orders. Anyone who discovered the SEALs or otherwise endangered the mission was to be killed as quietly as possible. After a painfully-long pause from both parties, the civilian fishermen thought better of the engagement and silently paddled into the night without another word, the rapidly beating hearts of the SEALs still in their throats.  It turns out Luminox Original Navy SEAL watches were actually worn by SEALs.  With around six years in the Teams, Hall had already deployed to the Mediterranean as well as the Persian Gulf for Operation Desert Shield, but the brief Haitian conflict, and this near miss on a moonless Haitian beach, presented his first up-close taste of war. Throughout his initial SEAL training and qualification as well as thousands of training hours at SEAL Teams TWO and EIGHT, Hall crafted a visceral understanding of the relationship between mission success and having the right tool for the job. Watches were then and are now yet another essential tool, as important to the mission in many cases as an operator’s weapons. But for Hall, who quickly asked me to call him Dave when we met via Zoom, watches represent a lot more than that. I met Dave (@davehall1911) through my Instagram account, @SubmersibleWrist, when he reached out to share a few photos of his time in the Teams.  Afghanistan 2005, Casio Pathfinder on the wrist When W.O.E. asked me to write something for the Dispatch, I immediately thought of Dave. As one of the world’s least tactical people, I would never compare my resume to Dave’s, but my experiences as a search and rescue team leader in the US Coast Guard as well as my time as a commercial diver mean we share an intimate understanding of tool watches in the maritime environment. Setting aside his decorated 20-year career in Naval Special Warfare for a moment, Dave is a dyed-in-the-wool watch enthusiast just like the rest of us. The first “real” watch Dave remembers acquiring was a Citizen Aqualand C023 he purchased with carefully-pinched pennies from a summer lifeguarding job in northern Illinois. Looking back, the humble depth-gauge-enabled Citizen stands as the first installment in a tale of service, adventure, and armed conflict, punctuated by some of history's most iconic watches.  BUD/S And An Improbable Tudor “Snowflake” Submariner, Ref 9401 Hall’s Tudor “Snowflake” Submariner, Ref 9401, SEAL Trident, USN Mk II Kabar At BUD/S or Basic Underwater Demolition/SEAL training in 1987, Dave quickly made friends with a San Diego local and classmate. Dave’s friend, who would eventually serve as his dive buddy in what was then Third Phase, showed Dave around the area and also introduced him to his uncle, a dealer of military surplus. As graduation from one of the military’s most elite training programs loomed, Dave’s buddy’s uncle mentioned his recent purchase of 100 of the last of the West Coast Teams' issued Tudor Submariners in an unmarked cardboard box from a US Navy Defense Reutilization Marketing Office (DRMO) surplus auction. Thirty-three years later, Dave clearly remembers paying his friend’s uncle $300, no small sum for a junior enlisted sailor in 1988, for two of the well-worn Tudor Submariners, keeping one and gifting the other to a family member.  BUD/S Graduation 1988, Tudor Submariner on the wrist. Dave remembered seeing similar watches often worn with a brass W.C.C. survival compass on simple nylon straps on the wrists of legendary SEALs around BUD/S. One such operator who left an impression was RJ Thomas, a Vietnam SEAL who famously repelled two hundred VC fighters from his downed helicopter with an M1911 pistol, racking up 37 confirmed kills between 3 and a staggering 150 yards and injuring countless others.  Hall's Tudor Submariner along with a few other relics from the Vietnam Era. For a young Dave Hall, his “Snowflake” Submariner could not have been any cooler and synonymous with the legendary operators the fledgling frogman hoped to emulate. Dave wore the Tudor for his graduation from BUD/S and throughout his career for lighter duty and the types of ceremonies and events that call for a dress uniform. All these years later, Dave still has the watch and wears it alongside a brass W.C.C. compass on a simple nylon strap, just as God and the SEAL Teams intended.   Seiko Automatic Dive Watches, Stacks Of Casio G-Shocks, Pathfinders, & A Luminox  Hall graduating SEAL Sniper School with a handshake from legendary Marine Scout Sniper, Carlos Hathcock.  Seiko on the wrist. With the Rolex and Tudor Submariners of old all but phased out and either retained by crafty SEALs like Dave or sold at DRMO auctions, the SEAL Teams of the 80s and 90s issued a mix of Seiko automatic dive watches including the 6309 and later the 7002 as well as several generations of the venerable Casio G-Shock and Pathfinder. Dave remembers all of these utilitarian watches fondly, though he makes note of the sheer volume of G-Shock watches he went through in his career, often wearing one on his attack board and another on the wrist during combat dives. When the battery died or something failed, he simply tossed it and grabbed another from his unit’s supply officer. Hall dive training in 1991 in Scotland. Citizen Aqualand on the wrist. Along with the Citizen Aqualand of his youth, which he often wore operationally, Dave favored the utilitarian automatic Seiko divers of the era. Dave reached for his Seikos in situations that did not require the perfect stopwatch timing and self-illuminating capabilities offered by digital watches, opting for the legendary Japanese brand on the range, when parachuting, or for other land-based training evolutions.  Chesapeake, VA, Range training, 1995. Seiko on the wrist. For the nerds in the room, which I assume is all of you, Dave mentioned that the strap of the 90s East Coast SEAL Teams was a simple velcro model with a depth-compensating spring-loaded buckle that once accompanied a Tekna diving wrist compass. Despite the legendary status of Seiko and G-Shock within the Teams, when Dave made the aforementioned big swim into Haiti in ‘94, he was wearing the then-brand-new Luminox Original Navy SEAL he had privately purchased. And while enthusiasts may snicker at the often-corny Luminox Navy SEAL marketing, Dave remembers enjoying the brightness of the tritium illumination on that particular mission while admitting the watch was more fragile compared to the Seiko, Citizen & Casio models upon which he normally relied.  The OMEGA Seamaster Chronograph 2598.80  Hall's OMEGA Seamaster Chronograph. In 1996, Dave purchased his first luxury watch, an OMEGA Seamaster Chronograph reference 2598.80, in celebration of the birth of his first child. When asked, Dave indicates it was this very watch that he wore the most operationally, with hundreds of jumps, combat dives, and real-world combat missions and gun fights to its name. The Seamaster Chronograph of the era paired the iconic design language established by the Pierce Brosnan Bond Seamaster with its distinctive wave-engraved dial and added chronograph functionality by way of the robust but thick Valjoux 7750. Intriguingly, the watch made the first of two appearances by Dave’s watches in popular media, starring in the final scene of an episode of Navy SEALs: In Harms Way, a documentary series produced by Gordon Forbes for the Discovery Channel. And while Dave lists the OMEGA, now most often worn by his wife Tracey, as the number one operator watch of his career overall, the evolution of combat following the 9/11 terrorist attacks would call for new tactics and equipment, including a GPS-enabled Suunto Dave wore on a day of intense combat that would change his life. Freefall training in Spain, 1997.  Omega Seamaster Chronograph on the wrist. An Early Suunto GPS Watch & A Very Long Day In Baghdad In 2004, with the Global War On Terror (GWOT) in full effect, Dave was stationed at SEAL Delivery Vehicle Team TWO (SDVT-2). Envisioned in the Second World War, the modern SDV is a miniature wet submersible capable of deploying from ships or submarines and carrying small teams of US Navy SEALs far greater distances than even a Navy SEAL can swim. For a particular SDV mission upon which Dave opts not to elaborate, he and a few other SEALs were issued an early watersports-themed Suunto watch offering rudimentary but useful GPS functionality at the cost of needing regular recharging. Given the growing intensity of combat operations in Iraq’s major cities, experienced SEALs from SDVT-2 and elsewhere were often sent to augment other SEAL Teams deployed in the Middle East. Transitioning from 10 to 15-hour dives in shark-infested water to the heat, chaos, and urban combat of Baghdad’s streets is no small task but is the kind of thing a senior operator like Dave was accustomed to after 15 years in the Teams. On one particular mission, Dave and three other SEAL snipers were attached to a regular US Army unit and tasked with providing overwatch for an intersection known as a launch point for insurgent mortar teams. The mission seemed simple enough. When the insurgent mortar team showed up, the SEAL snipers would do what they do best from the relative safety of their urban hide.  Hall in Iraq before his injury. Note the Suunto GPS watch on the wrist. A few hours after being locked into the eighth floor of an urban high-rise by a sketchy local source, the team observed four insurgent pickups in the alleyway below loaded with RPGs and fifteen armed men clad in black. Soon after, a massive vehicle-borne improvised explosive device or VBIED exploded down the street, ripping the front of an Iraqi police station to shreds and igniting an intense, multi-stage ambush. With rocket-propelled grenades and small arms fire erupting in every direction in the street below, Dave and his team made for the roof to bring the fight to the enemy and give the dozens of wounded Iraqi police officers at least a fighting chance of survival. A former instructor at Naval Special Warfare’s sniper school, Dave remembers engaging the enemy fighters from the rooftop along with the other SEALs and soldiers in their small element, doing enough damage for the insurgent force to switch its focus from the badly-damaged police station to killing Dave and his team. Impressively, despite their small numbers, the accuracy of the SEAL snipers and soldiers on Dave’s team kept an enormous insurgent force at bay for a tense two and a half hours. Eventually, an enterprising enemy fighter emerged from an adjacent rooftop and threw a perfectly-aimed Russian hand grenade into the midst of the SEALs and soldiers on the rooftop.  Baghdad, Iraq.  View from the Baghdad rooftop where Hall was injured. In a reflexive attempt to get clear of the explosion, Dave jumped in the general direction of a lower tier of the roof, barely missing a ladder on the way down. Landing awkwardly, Dave felt his right knee crumple under his body weight and a combat load of over 65 lbs of gear. Despite also hitting his head in the fall, the image of looking down and seeing the bottom of his dusty Merrell hiking boot looking up at him from his almost completely amputated lower leg is as clear for Dave today as it was in 2004. With several other members of the team also injured, including a soldier who had his foot completely severed, the team retreated under fire to the eighth floor. Dave vividly remembers crawling on his stomach over the roof using the wounded soldier’s blood like a slip and slide. Eventually making his way to a corner of the 8th floor, Dave put his back to the wall and covered the stairs, well and truly pissed and still in the fight. With the enemy well aware of the team’s position, RPG explosions rocked the seventh and eighth floor of the concrete building from all sides, piling concussive brain injuries one after another for Dave and his team in the enclosed space as the building filled with thick black smoke from burning enemy trucks. Dave’s Suunto was also still in the fight, something he remembers well because he checked the time often in the ensuing two-and-a-half hours before rescue ultimately came in the form of armored vehicles. Incredibly, after several surgeries and extensive physical therapy, Dave returned not only to the Teams but to war less than a year later to deploy to Afghanistan, ultimately retiring from a storied career in 2007.  Hall as a junior Team Guy, wearing a Citizen Aqualand. Dave’s history, which I have only begun to touch on in this abbreviated format, is truly incredible, spanning the breadth of the transition between the US Navy SEALs of the 70s, 80s, and 90s that were still heavily influenced by the Vietnam War and the development of the modern operator we associate with the SEALs of today. But what surprised me most about Dave was the total lack of ego and openness with which he approached the idea of talking to someone like me about his life, war, and watches.  Today, Dave remains deeply connected to the SEAL Teams and the special operations community at large, spending much of his time volunteering as the president of the Silent Warrior Foundation, a not-for-profit that provides funding for mental health services, emergency financial help, scholarships, and hyperbaric oxygen treatment for injuries that are often related to TBIs in particular.  Ian Brown (@tacshot1) wearing Dave's Tudor on the set of SEAL Team on Paramount Plus Traumatic brain injuries, which are often related to mental health issues and veteran suicides, are close to Dave’s heart. Thanks to one of his friends who works on the show, Dave’s focus on TBIs ultimately led to yet another appearance in film for one of Dave’s watches in a recent episode of SEAL Team in an episode dealing with TBI-related stigma in the SEAL community. In the episode, an old-timer frogman prominently wears Dave’s Tudor Submariner, an incredibly accurate move by the prop department and further evidence that beyond his laurels as an elite special operator, Dave is also a watch guy (almost) just like you and me. Just don’t ask him how much he wants for his Tudor Sub.  If you’d like to support Dave’s efforts with the Silent Warrior Foundation, please check out their website.  About The Author: Benjamin Lowry is a US Coast Guard veteran and commercial diver turned watch writer. These days, Ben splits his time between writing and video production in the watch industry and managing @SubmersibleWrist, a watch spotting account dedicated to military and commercial divers. Read Next: Espionage & Family: A Tale Of Two Watches

In preparation for the holidays, we provide the W.O.E. stamp of approval on the following products/companies/groups.   We have closed up “shop” for the year but will be back next year with leather straps, more W.O.E. Travel Pouches, a new coin and a few more exciting things in the works.  Please sign up for “Notify Me When Available” for anything that interests you. In the meantime, check out the following items as gifts for loved ones, friends or yourself. Watches: Arabic-Dial Seiko, SNKP21J1:  This has become the “W.O.E. hype watch.” In fact, it is attainable and can be purchased for a couple hundred dollars on Amazon or other online retailers. A great gift for a loved one. Tudor Ranger: 39mm simple field watch.  At approximately $3,000 depending on the configuration, this is a great affordable luxury tool watch.  Perfect if you are looking to splurge on a timepiece for a spouse, child or parent. CWC SBS DIVER ISSUE (QS120-DD): A great overall quartz tool watch with British Ministry of Defense heritage.  Available for £582.50. Wind Vintage: In the vintage watch world, Eric Wind is the OG.  Wind Vintage specializes in high-end timepieces (primarily watches before 1990 and above $15,000) and focuses on condition, condition, condition.  If you are looking to surprise W.O.E. with a Christmas present, please consider this Rolex “James Bond” / “Big Crown” Submariner reference 6538 with "Four-Line Dial.” The Grey NA.TO: TGN is a community of like-minded individuals who believe in using their tools.  Hosts Jason Heaton and James Stacey break down their love for adventure, their addiction to watches, and also discuss travel, diving, driving and gear.  A subscription to The Grey NA.TO includes a strap (grey, of course), stickers and access to additional content.  At $100 a year, a unique gift for someone who has everything. The Observer Collection:  Whisky Wallet.  Marine-turned-photographer/designer, Robert Spangle has some unique designs for everyday travel items.  The Whisky Wallet is a compact card wallet ideal in a dinner jacket. It owes much of its DNA to traditional Inrō containers and packs a slim expandable coin pocket. $200 Watchistry:  When it comes to Marine Nationale watches, Watchistry (literally) wrote the book.  He also has some great merchandise in his store, including the MN Enamel Mug. (Check out the books also) $19.00  Field Ethos Journal: The Everything Mug. It ain't cheap, but like most things in life, you get what you pay for.  “Your grandchildren will be drinking from it.” $150 Watch Straps:   When it comes to straps, we are the opposite of monogamous.  We are promiscuous.  In addition to our W.O.E. Z.A. Straps, W.O.E. will be releasing leather straps in 2023.  In the meantime, check out a few ones that we like to rock. Z.A. Straps: Beyond the W.O.E.-ZA Collaboration, ZA has a range of straps to check out. $50-$145 Zane's Handmade:  Handmade Horween leather straps crafted by a recent US Mil veteran.  $85-95 Soturi Design: Cordura Straps. Designed for living and built to last, the Victory strap is both rugged and refined. Inspired by Cordura’s military heritage, we chose this material as a nod to the fabric’s proven performance in many of the world’s toughest environments. $135 Saga Trading Co.-Peplor: Leather strap with raindrop camo pattern.  Strichtarn, or more commonly “raindrop camo” pattern, was adopted by East Germany in the mid- 1960s. Since then, it has seen use by Croatia, Czechoslovakia, Poland, South Africa, and Uzbekistan. $155 Art: Bad Art Nice Watch:  Commission a piece on your favorite watch.  Check out the one he did for the Jordanian Breitling. King Kennedy Rugs: We have no idea who runs this company, but his rugs are incredible. Check out these “Vintage Rolex Hand Woven Rugs” rugs from Afghanistan. $325  Prairie Fire Art Company, "Resistance" WWII OSS Jedburgh Art Print:  In 1944, the Jedburgh teams of the American OSS and the British SOE (including French officers) dropped into Nazi- occupied Europe to organize, train and lead into battle the resistance forces of France, the Netherlands and other European nations. This painting depicts an American Jedburgh officer meeting members of the French Resistance. The officer wears a Gallet Clamshell Chronograph - a popular choice with American aviators and special operations officers in Britain during the lead up to the invasion.  Ad Patina: The best in the game when it comes to vintage watch advertisements.  Prices vary. Justin Sowders: Want to commission a piece of horological art? Sowders is your guy. He’s developed a unique style that’s unlike anything else in the space. He’s done pieces that now hang in the halls of HODINKEE and Citizen HQ, and maybe above your fireplace next. Price on request.  Knives: Half Face Blades: Half Face Blades was founded by Andrew Arrabito, Navy SEAL (ret.), to meet the need for high-quality, “go-to” knives and axes – usable, personalized, functional, versatile tools that work for every person in every walk of life. Half Face Blades knives are designed with the distinction and ruggedness required for the work they are intended to do. Each knife is calculated to meet requirements gained by experience, by testing knives and axes, by using them over time at sea and in remote wildernesses. Brad Cavner signature series. $375 Emerson Commander: The ultimate utility knife, designed to go anywhere, anytime, and to get the job done, the Commander is the ultimate “all-rounder.” Whether you're on patrol, hunting that white-tailed buck or stripping wires to run electrical in the “she-shed,” the Commander does it all with ease.  $269.85 Dynamis Alliance - Winkler Knives: Razorback, a staple in W.O.E.'s EDC. Books- A Man & His Watch: Iconic Watches and Stories from the Men Who Wore Them, Matt Hranek:  Paul Newman wore his Rolex Daytona every single day for 35 years until his death in 2008. The iconic timepiece, probably the single most sought-after watch in the world, is now in the possession of his daughter Clea, who wears it every day in his memory. Franklin Roosevelt wore an elegant gold Tiffany watch, gifted to him by a friend on his birthday, to the famous Yalta Conference where he shook the hands of Joseph Stalin and Winston Churchill. JFK's Omega worn to his presidential inauguration, Ralph Lauren's watch purchased from Andy Warhol's personal collection, Sir Edmund Hillary's Rolex worn during the first-ever summit of Mt. Everest . . . these and many more compose the stories of the world's most coveted watches captured in A Man and His Watch. Matthew Hranek, a watch collector and NYC men's style fixture, has traveled the world conducting firsthand interviews and diving into exclusive collections to gather the never-before-told stories of 76 watches, completed with stunning original photography of every single piece.  $28.49 A Die Hard Christmas: A true story.  All John McClane wants for Christmas is to reunite with his estranged family. But when his wife’s office holiday party turns into a deadly hostage situation, he has to save her life before he can get home in time for Christmas!  The unconventional fan-favorite movie Die Hard is now an illustrated storybook- complete with machine guns, European terrorists, and a cop who’s forced to rely on all his cunning and skills (and the help of a fellow officer) to save the day. Based on the classic “Night Before Christmas” poem and filled with whimsical illustrations, this cleverly reimagined homage is destined to become a holiday classic.  Depth Charge, Jason Heaton: Julian “Tusker” Tusk, an American archaeologist, is excavating a shipwreck half a world from home when a research boat catches fire and sinks, killing an old friend. The tragedy sets in motion a dangerous quest for truth that pulls Tusker into a sinister plot spanning 75 years, from World War II Ceylon to modern day Sri Lanka. Along the way, he matches wits with a psychopathic mercenary, discovers a long lost ship with an explosive secret, and falls for a beautiful marine biologist who is at least as strong as he is. In the end, Tusker finds that the truth may lie at the bottom of the sea, with only one way back to the surface. Depth Charge is an old school thriller in the tradition of Fleming, Maclean, and Cussler, with an eye for detail, cunning villains, and narrow escapes. The story is full of wartime secrets, the intersection of religion and politics, and the arcane world of deep technical diving. It takes readers from the smoky halls of 1940s London to the volatile, seductive heat of Sri Lanka and sixty fathoms under the Indian Ocean. Try not to hold your breath.  $14.39 Watch Annual:  A book for watch lovers, by watch lovers. A reflection of 2022 in watches; celebrating the best of design and complication — and a reference for years to come.  An honor for W.O.E. to be featured in the 2022 Watch Annual.  Our submission was the Tudor Pelagos 39, in my opinion the best luxury tool watch from this year.  £29.99 Selling the Crown: The Secret History of Marketing Rolex, Brendan Cunningham, PHD: During World War II, a new front opened in the battle between the Axis and Allied powers: propaganda. Little-known archival records reveal that in the postwar period, British veterans of covert warfare applied their experiences in a new arena: advertising. This is the inside story of those who marketed Rolex, one of the most valuable and secretive brands in world history. The company's reputation for luxury and exclusivity was built, in part, using the strategies and tactics that were sharpened through secretive global conflict. Vickers Guide: The firearms and content in Vickers Guide have been sourced and curated by Larry Vickers – twenty year U.S. Army Special Operations veteran and combat marksmanship instructor, 1911 custom builder, and firearms industry consultant.  Photography and publishing by James Rupley, who also happens to have taken most of the professional shots on Watches of Espionage. Starting at $98.00 Skunk Works: A Personal Memoir of My Years at Lockheed: You may have heard about the recent debut of the B-21 Raider. That stealth bomber is made by Northrop Grumman, they lost the contract to competitor Lockheed, which developed planes like the SR-71 and plenty more that only a few know about. Skunkworks is the secretive division of Lockheed that works on developing aircraft one step ahead of everyone else. This book is the best bit of insight on what happens inside Skunkworks. It’s a quick and fun read. Starting at $5.  Terminal List Series, Jack Carr: Applying the experience and emotions from real-world combat to the pages of his novels, Jack Carr brings unprecedented levels of authenticity to the political thriller, taking readers on a behind the scenes journey into the mind of a modern-day special operations soldier, dispensing an ancient form of justice in today’s modern geopolitical landscape. Some great watch content also! First Casualty: The Untold Story of the CIA Mission to Avenge 9/11, Toby Harnden: America is reeling; Al-Qaeda has struck, and thousands are dead. The country scrambles to respond, but the Pentagon has no plan for Afghanistan - where Osama bin Laden masterminded the attack and is protected by the Taliban. Instead, the CIA steps forward to spearhead the war. Eight CIA officers are dropped into the mountains of Northern Afghanistan on October 17, 2001. They are Team Alpha, an eclectic band of linguists, tribal experts, and elite warriors: the first Americans to operate inside Taliban territory. Their covert mission is to track down Al-Qaeda and stop the terrorists from infiltrating the United States again. The Main Enemy: The Inside Story of the CIA's Final Showdown with the KGB: A landmark collaboration between a thirty-year veteran of the CIA and a Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist, The Main Enemy is the dramatic inside story of the CIA-KGB spy wars, told through the actions of the men who fought them. Based on hundreds of interviews with operatives from both sides, The Main Enemy puts us inside the heads of CIA officers as they dodge surveillance and walk into violent ambushes in Moscow. This is the story of the generation of spies who came of age in the shadow of the Cuban missile crisis and rose through the ranks to run the CIA and KGB in the last days of the Cold War. The clandestine operations they masterminded took them from the sewers of Moscow to the back streets of Baghdad, from Cairo and Havana to Prague and Berlin, but the action centers on Washington, starting in the infamous "Year of the Spy"--when, one by one, the CIA’s agents in Moscow began to be killed, up through to the very last man. Hot Sauce:  Tabasco: Tabasco is an American brand of hot sauce made from vinegar, tabasco peppers (Capsicum frutescens var. tabasco), and salt. It is produced by McIlhenny Company of Avery Island in south Louisiana, having been created over 150 years ago by Edmund McIlhenny. Priceless. *W.O.E. has received no financial compensation for the above products and these are NOT/NOT sponsored.  Please do your own research before making any purchases.

The Casio F-91W’s reputation looms large in both horology and national security circles, and for good reason. The simple, cheap and effective plastic watch is likely one of the most ubiquitous timepieces on the planet, with an estimated three million produced each year since sometime in the early 1990s. However, the watch that is coveted by hipsters and former presidents alike has a more sinister utility: it has been used to deadly effect as a timer for explosive charges and Improvised Explosive Devices (IEDs) and worn regularly by members of al-Qaeda, ISIS and other transnational militant groups. 

Blackwater Breitling: Regardless of one's personal views on Blackwater and their impact on global events, one cannot properly recount the history of modern Intelligence and Special Operations without discussing Blackwater. In the niche genre of military timepieces and Watches of Espionage this is an important story. Breitling developed this tool watch in the early 1990’s initially focused on the military and the aviation sectors. It was a practical wrist instrument designed for a singular purpose, to locate and rescue those in need.  

W.O.E. Single Pass Z.A. Straps. At Watches of Espionage, our product development model is to partner with true professionals –masters of their craft– to develop distinct and highly functional products that honor our community and our core belief that you should “use your tools.”

by Cole Pennington A watch is just a watch–until we add meaning to it. Open up the Rand McNally Encyclopedia of Military Aircraft, turn to the section on American warbirds and you’ll notice one plane is broken out under the heading “The P-51 Mustang: Perhaps the greatest fighter of them all”. The use of a superlative is a tricky claim to make when the pages are filled with the Mustang’s capable contemporaries like the Supermarine Spitfire, the Mitsubishi A6M5 Zero, and the P-47 Thunderbolt. But if you grew up in the ‘80s or ‘90s, you knew that this book was the authority on military aircraft. If Rand McNally said it was the greatest fighter of them all, then it was. That one encyclopedia entry set the stage for a lifelong admiration of the P-51D. The plane came to represent more than just an exceptional piece of engineering; instead it became a symbol for the unbreakable American spirit and strength in the face of adversity. My fascination was bolstered by watching movies like Saving Private Ryan and The Thin Red Line and seeing the Mustang come through when it’s needed most. We often project these ideological values onto physical objects, I’m certainly guilty of it. In fact, the last thing James Kindelberger and Edgar Schmued were thinking about when they brought the Mustang to life was greatness. The plane was an answer to a proposal made by the British Purchasing Commission. It was a pragmatic solution to answer the growing needs of wartime. Like most mechanical objects I’ve grown to admire, it was born out of a need to get something done. It’s less art, and more tool. Ahead of a big move to another continent, my girlfriend arranged a flight on the legendary warbird to punctuate our time in America as we prepared to move to Europe. After all these years, I finally got to experience another dimension of the Mustang: the aerial capabilities that established its dominance during WWII. Suddenly it wasn’t all ethereal and philosophical. Six G’s makes you forget about all that stuff and focus on just keeping your head on straight. Man O'War, the P-51D I flew on, was first shipped to England during WWII but didn’t see any combat time. Later it found a home with the New Jersey National Guard. Today it rips through the skies of Palm Springs, CA, inspiring both those in the back seat and on the ground. Adding an emotional layer to an inanimate physical object isn’t just something that happens with planes, of course. On a much smaller scale, it happens with watches, too. For the Mustang ride, there was only one watch that made sense to wear, and it wasn’t a pairing I came up with. The legendary pilot Chuck Yeager started working with Rolex in 1946, but it was in the ‘80s that an advertisement featuring Yeager in front of a P-51D Mustang, wearing a GMT-Master II on his wrist was first published. That day, flying in the Mustang with my GMT-Master II on my own wrist, I finally figured out why both the Mustang and the Rolex had become ideological symbols of something much bigger and more powerful than the actual tools they are. There’s nothing greater than being inspired and reminded of what we’re capable of. We need heroes and legends to do that. Stories of this nature are the oldest form of currency. And sometimes it takes a watch or a plane to serve as a reminder of how much human ingenuity and perseverance we have within us. That’s what it’s really about.

by J.R. Seeger For this week’s Dispatch, former senior CIA Case Officer J.R. Seeger writes about the role his watches played in the early days of the conflict in Afghanistan. As Seeger outlines, watches are tools, and one should choose the best tool for the job. In the world of espionage, the tool is not always a Rolex. We often worry that W.O.E. gives the perception that every Case Officer, Navy SEAL or Special Forces operator is running around the world with a luxury timepiece on their wrist.  While that is largely the focus of this platform, the truth is many of the best practitioners rely on digital tools to accomplish their task. Sometimes cheap, reliable digital watches are the best tools for espionage. Digital Watches of Espionage - The Role Watches Played in the Early Days of the CIA’s War in Afghanistan October 2001: I was the team leader on one of the first CIA teams into Afghanistan. Other, more articulate writers have related the story of our team and work with US Special Forces. 12 Strong by Doug Stanton and First Casualty by Toby Harnden are detailed accounts of the Fall of 2001. Instead, this is a short essay about the watches I wore during that deployment behind the Taliban lines in the Fall of 2001. For most of my deployments in the 1990s, I wore either a Timex Ironman or a Casio G-shock. My watch choice was based on two requirements: accurate timekeeping and low cost.  During travels in the Middle East, South Asia, and Central Asia, the idea of wearing something other than an expendable watch was out of the question.  Plus, my only “good” watch, a 1971 Bulova Deep Sea Chronograph, was engraved with my initials, not always something you want on your wrist when you might be someone else. CIA’s Team Alpha Prior to Insertion into Afghanistan. Seeger Back Row, Third From Left As the team headed to our intermediate stop in Uzbekistan, our level of kit was minimal. I often say our team picture (above) looks like eight bikers with Kalashnikovs. Jeans, work shirts, boots and fleece jackets, weapons, radios and money. Everything you would need for a successful trip into a war-zone. During my pack-out, I didn’t pay any attention to the watch on my wrist. Of course, I should have realized that I was probably pushing the envelope on the battery in my Timex, but I had a couple of other things to worry about as we designed a campaign plan for five provinces in Afghanistan. As we completed our final briefings in isolation at Karshi Khanabad Airbase (aka KKUZ), I realized my watch had quit. No warning. Just a blank screen. Less than ideal when precision is required. Casio F-91W, w/ AKS-74U (Photo Credit James Rupley) One of my teammates laughed and said, “Boss, you forgot that two is one and one is none.” He reached into his ruck and pulled out a Casio F-91W.  Probably the least expensive piece of kit in all our inventory. He tossed it to me, and it went on my wrist.  A cheap watch is better than no watch at all! We loaded into MH-60 helicopters in the early morning of 16 October for our insertion.  That’s a story that has nothing to do with watches. Lessons: - two is one and one is none- you may never know when a piece of kit is going to be essential Tool Watches as Operational Gifts to Afghan Warlords In November 2001, we were in a consolidation phase of the effort to defeat the Taliban. By this time, we had consolidated the two teams, Alpha and Bravo and had a full complement of eleven to handle the region. We often split into buddy teams to travel with our Afghan and Army Special Forces colleagues, hunting Taliban and building tribal alliances.  Early in November, in one of our parachute resupplies, I received a Suunto watch - an early version of the Suunto tool watch series.  Someone on the team decided I needed a better watch and put in the request. The early Suunto watches were large plastic timepieces that served as a compass, thermometer, and barometer as well as the standard multiple time zones display, timers and alarms.  It was a bit more of a commando watch than I thought I needed, but I was certainly ready to use it.  It was big and regularly got caught on rucksack straps as we loaded on horseback and/or trucks.  Still, it was light and had a large display.  At 47 with already aging eyesight, I was ready to enjoy a larger screen. “Suunto on my wrist in the Darya Suf Valley”, J.R. Seeger pictured left, (Photo Credit: Toby Harnden/Unknown) In mid-November, two of us went with Afghan warlord and then CIA partner - Abdul Rashid Dostum on a tour of the Uzbek region of Northwestern Afghanistan.  More than anything else, it was a “victory lap” for our Uzbek ally and that meant traveling miles on dirt roads between Sheberghan and cities and towns in northwest Afghanistan. A Toyota Land Cruiser for us, two Toyota Hi-Lux pickups for the security detachment.  Washboard roads punctuated by public events made for a very long ride. At the end of the day, Dostam decided to take a shortcut by traveling on what he said was an old smugglers’ trail running through the desert and ending back in Sheberghan.  We were all tired and dozed off as the headlights of the Toyotas cut through the dust raised by our vehicles. I don’t know exactly what woke me from my dozing, but when I finally cleared my head, it seemed like I recognized the terrain.  Of course, desert terrain is not all that distinctive, so I would have been willing to accept the fact that it was a trick of memory and fatigue. Still, I used the Suunto compass feature to check our heading. After twenty minutes, I realized we were slowly circling a prominent hill.  The drivers were following a track that circled the hill.  The compass showed our heading.  Sheberghan was east.  We were going north, then west then south…. Well, that was enough to convince me we were lost. Seeger Center, Dostum looking at him, Casio F-91W (Photo Credit Unknown / Toby Harnden) I woke up Dostum.  He was incredulous.  There was no way we could be lost on his turf.  I took off the watch, showed him the compass readings.  He was furious.  This was smugglers’ country.  Wandering about might not get us in a battle with remnants of the Taliban, but it certainly could get us in a firefight with smugglers.  Dostum put the watch on his wrist, dope slapped his driver, and took charge of the navigation. Dostum wore the Suunto for the rest of our time in Afghanistan. I wore the F-91W for another two years and then switched to a G-shock.  At the end of the day, a good tool watch is important.  What you need depends on where you are.  Today, I have far more watches than I need.    Most of which are inexpensive mechanical tool watches and I enjoy wearing them. I recently had the 1971 Bulova serviced, and it will remain a cherished possession. But, I still have an F-91W in the inventory – just in case. Seeger and Dostum on the night of insertion, 16 October 2001, Casio F-91W on J.R. Seeger’s wrist. (Photo Credit: Unknown Toby Harnden) J.R. Seeger served as a paratrooper in the 82nd Airborne and as a CIA officer for a total of 27 years of federal service. He served 17 years in multiple field assignments focused on counterterrorism, counterintelligence and irregular warfare.  During his final, 3-year assignment in CIA Headquarters, he first served as a chief of operations for a geographic division in the Directorate of Operations and then served as a deputy director and deputy chief of the CIA Counterterrorism Center.  Seeger led multiple, small unit teams during his service, including leading one of the CIA teams that infiltrated into Afghanistan after 9/11. Since his retirement, J.R. has written articles and book reviews in the CIA professional journal “Studies in Intelligence” and the T.E. Lawrence Society newsletter. His seven-part MIKE4 series is about a family who have served in the special operations and intelligence community from World War II to the present. This newsletter has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information. Further Reading:CIA’s JAWBREAKER Team And A Rolex Submariner

In this week's Dispatch, we continue our exploration of the massive uptick in watch-related crime and discuss traveling with watches.  Africa Watch Loadout- Traveling with Watches See Part I, Criminal Rolex Gangs and Traveling with Watches In early 2022 I planned a return trip to Africa–a continent where I’ve spent much of my life and a place where I feel at home. Like most things in the life of a former CIA Case Officer, it was to be part pleasure, part work: a mix of business meetings, reconnecting with old friends and some time on safari in the bush. I planned to spend most of the trip in rural areas that were deemed safe by most standards, but would travel through Johannesburg and Nairobi–two cities notorious for petty crime that can sometimes turn violent.  My view is that a relationship can be developed with seemingly inanimate objects through shared experience, and this particularly applies to watches. It wasn’t a question of if I would bring a watch, but which watches I was going to bring. This might seem risky because “Africa is dangerous.”  Despite the ignorance of generalizing a continent of 54 diverse countries, there is some truth to this statement. As we explored in Part I, watch-related crime has skyrocketed globally over the past few years and traveling anywhere with a luxury watch requires certain considerations. That said, I believe many parts of Africa are safer for watch aficionados than London, New York or Paris. Decades from now when I’m telling my grandchildren stories about my watch collection, I would rather tell them that their grandfather’s watch was stolen at a bar in Maputo instead of admitting that the watch sat in a safe for 30 years and remains in pristine condition. Watches are tools. I am willing to risk the potential loss or damage to use them for their intended purpose. W.O.E.’s Personal Rolex GMT 16710, Photo James Rupley Rolex GMT- The Case Officer’s Watch: Had it been 2019, I would have brought my Rolex GMT-Master II, an early 2000s black and red “Coke” ref 16710. For years, I have said that the Rolex GMT, any reference,  is the ultimate CIA Case Officer’s watch– a classy and refined tool that signals to others you are a man of culture, yet don’t mind getting your hands dirty. The ideal Case Officer has been described as a “Ph.D. that can win a bar fight,” and I have always envisioned this persona wearing a Rolex GMT.  (Full disclosure, I don't have a Ph.D, and during my last bar fight–which was more than a few years ago–I was likely wearing a Breitling.) When hopping time zones, the quick-change date and GMT functionality are useful for confirming the time back home, and a simple wrist check is easier than pulling out a phone. The watch also captures the nostalgia of the romanticized vision of the Rolex GMT, originally developed in the 1950s for commercial Pan Am pilots. While all my watches are insured, I still questioned the wisdom of traveling to Africa with a watch worth significantly over $10,000 and engineered by one of the world’s most well-known brands, Montres Rolex SA. I’ve heard that one of the tests for Rolex models is that all designs must be recognizable from 20 feet away. While I am not privy to Rolex internal company practices, this feature seems to be accurate in the real world. A semi-trained eye can recognize a Rolex from across the room in a dimly lit bar, and thanks to social media (See Part I), in 2022, semi-trained eyes are all over the place. A criminal call out scanning the arrivals hall at Nairobi Jomo Kenyatta International Airport could do the same, immediately pegging the Rolex wearer as a potential target.  Sure, in an emergency, I could potentially trade the Rolex for a plane ticket, ride to the airport or facilitate a border crossing, but at a certain point the watch is more likely to get you in a bad situation than out of one.  It is a liability, not an asset.  The Rolex was out. Affordable Watches: The logical decision–the “school solution”-- was to travel with one watch, something that would not draw attention and be durable enough to make it through any expected or unexpected adventure. It needed to be waterproof to a certain extent so that I would not have to take it off for a dip in the ocean or hotel pool, something that I could keep on my body at all times. An automatic movement mitigated the possibility of battery failure–something that always seems to happen at the worst time, i.e. day 2 of a 3 week trip. It had to be replaceable, from both a monetary standpoint but also from a sentimental point of view. Insurance solved the former, but the latter ruled out some watches that could not be replaced, such as a Jordanian Breitling Aerospace–a gift from the King of Jordan. Affordable Seiko, Photo James Rupley Something like a sub-$500 Seiko 5 Sports would satisfy these requirements and provide a great travel companion for any scenario. That said, I wanted to step it up a notch and bring a couple of unique pieces for my journey.  The Decision: I posted the following picture on Instagram @watchesofespionage and solicited W.O.E.’s (then) 60,000 followers for advice. 462 comments contained everything from “Bring the Rolex” to “Leave them at home and wear a Casio.” These comments were indicative of the scenario: the correct answer is, “It depends.” In reality, I had already returned from Africa when I posted this pic. If you think a former Spook turned watch influencer posts his travel plans in advance, you’re smoking crack. The Load Out:   Ultimately, I decided to travel with two watches, one “formal” watch that could be worn with a suit and one “informal” watch for adventures in the bush– something perishable and under $1,000. Tudor Black Bay 58 in its element; sundowners in the bush, Botswana. Black Bay 58:  As a big proponent of Tudor, I believe The Shield produces the best modern luxury tool watches. I quickly decided that the Black Bay 58 (BB58) would make a great travel companion. It was in. The watch had traveled with me to a few countries but was still relatively new and I had no real emotional ties to it. A classic steel sports watch, it was tough and had many of the benefits of a Rolex but without any of the drawbacks, and could be easily replaced for under retail price if needed. The BB58 is a relatively simple watch and an homage to the Tudor Submariners of the 1960s, which had been worn by Special Operations units both in the United States and abroad. Two tools, CWC SBS and Toyota Landcruiser. CWC SBS: I had recently acquired a Cabot Watch Company (CWC) SBS with a Tritium Dial from the late 1990s. The SBS was originally developed for the British Special Boat Service (SBS) in the late 1980s and is still issued to select British units today.  The watch was designed to military specifications, with a quartz movement and day/date feature. As a bonus, unless you are a “watch-guy,” the CWC is unremarkable and unlikely to stand out in a local market or hotel lobby.  It was unnecessary to bring two watches on the trip but they complemented each other well. I found myself wearing the (more affordable) CWC and the day/date feature was generally useful for everything from filling out customs forms to reminding myself the day of the week in the time warp that is African bush. The CWC has fixed spring bars, so I brought several straps along and changed them out frequently and with ease. The Tudor–one of my favorite watches– paired nicely with the CWC, but with no date or GMT feature, it was less practical as a travel watch.  Original Brodinkee Meme making fun of W.O.E. I can already visualize the “first world problem” @Brodinkee memes about the difficulty concerning the decision of what luxury watches to bring to the developing world. But for someone who is truly passionate about timepieces as a hobby, this is what collecting is all about. Shared experiences with these inanimate objects are what brings them to life. When I left for Africa, these pieces had little to no sentimental value.   But now, as I reflect on these tools, I remember wiping the dust off the crystal of the CWC as I scanned the sky for the Cessna Caravan that was late to the remote dirt airstrip, standing on the edge of Victoria Falls with mist drenching the Tudor dive watch and striking up a conversation at the hotel bar with a former British military officer that started with “Is that a CWC?” I never felt unsafe or targeted for wearing a watch, and in hindsight, I could have brought my Rolex GMT; it would not have been an issue. In fact, traveling to parts of Africa with a luxury watch is likely safer than walking the streets of London, Miami or Barcelona. That said, there were a couple of times that I pulled down my sleeve to cover the watch, and once or twice, I took it off and put it in my front right pocket with my passport and wallet.  Overall, the trip was a success and my watch choices proved to be perfect.  The watches are tools, like my Emerson knife, Swarovski binoculars, or Palladium boots. They are an extension of my persona, and had one been stolen, misplaced or damaged, I would have recovered. The risk/reward balance was there.  I did find myself needing a better travel case, which ultimately resulted in the creation of the W.O.E. Travel Pouch. A few other necessities for travel to Africa. Looking back at my selection, I would have appreciated having a GMT feature on either the Tudor or CWC.  Tudor makes a Black Bay Pro that would have satisfied this requirement and there are a number of sub-$1,000 GMTs on the market, including a new Seiko 5 Sports GMT for $475. I guess it's time to buy another watch.   -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our free weekly newsletter for further updates HERE.    Read Part I, Criminal Rolex Gangs and Traveling with Watches This newsletter has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.