In Watch and Firearm Collecting, Details Matter I purchased a new Rolex GMT Master II “Batman” directly from an authorized Rolex dealer (“AD”). After photographing the watch in my studio, I was surprised to see a production error that I had never seen before. In the “8” in the “18” on the bezel, the top circle is blue, while the bottom is black.

As I type this Dispatch, I am on a transatlantic flight to London for a short visit, a mix of business and pleasure.  As a former CIA Case Officer, separating the two can be difficult.  In my W.O.E. travel pouch is my Rolex GMT Master II 16710.  On my wrist is the Arabic Seiko, the understated watch that I plan to wear while in London due to the increased watch theft in the city. Why I am bringing the Rolex at all is a story for another time. Arabic Seiko Once an obscure watch, the “Arabic Seiko” (aka the "Seik-W.O.E." and the W.O.E. hype watch) is a popular reference within the W.O.E. community, and for good reason.  In part, its popularity is owed to the fact that it’s just a downright cool and unique piece at an affordable price point–but it’s also received consistent coverage on W.O.E. to bolster its reputation.   Just as important, however, is the deep meaning it has for our community.  Many of us have spent a considerable amount of time in the Middle East over the past 20+ years.  I personally have a strong affinity for the rich culture and language of the Arab world and this piece is a constant reminder of that connection and that specific period in my life.  A lot of veterans and NatSec folks can identify with this connection. Additionally, while I never wore a Seiko in any operational capacity during my time at the CIA, the Japanese brand has a long history in the Intelligence and Special Operations community. Our predecessors in the 1960s and 1970s wore "SOG" Seikos during covert operations carried out during the Vietnam War. Maritime Special Operations units (including the Navy SEALs) were issued Seiko Divers until at least the mid-1990s and the CIA even modified a digital Seiko with a covert camera for intelligence collection.  In short, the ref Arabic Seiko connects with every facet of the community in one way or another, and that’s what makes it so popular. It is a great conversation starter, and you can’t go wrong with this W.O.E. “hype watch.” Origin Story If this is the first time you are hearing about the Arabic Seiko, you are probably wondering how a former CIA Case Officer came across this unique timepiece. Did W.O.E. pick it up at Khan el-Khalili Souk in Cairo to support a cover legend, or receive it as an honorary gift from a Middle Eastern intelligence service after an impactful operation?  The truth is, it was purchased online.  Amazon’s algorithm served it to me in early 2022, something that I even wrote an article about for Hodinkee.  It is not a daring spy story, but it does say a lot about the state of technology and (commercial) surveillance.  Amazon knew I would like this watch before I even knew it existed, and that is fascinating.  At the time I had two Arabic-dial watches in my collection: A Breitling Aerospace (a gift from King Abdullah of Jordan), and an Arabic Breitling Aviator 8 Etihad Limited "Middle East" Edition in black steel, both watches that a treasured, something that would make my Arabic tutors in Beirut proud. W.O.E. personal Breitling and Arabic Seiko, Photo Credit: James Rupley Specs The Arabic Seiko is a simple black dialed Seiko 5, with large Eastern Arabic numerals.  The day feature is in Arabic and English, with the Arabic word for Friday (الجمعة) in Red, English “SAT” in blue and “SUN” in red, presumably honoring the holy days of the three Abrahamic faiths: Islam, Judaism and Christianity.    There are actually two readily available Arabic dial Seiko’s, the 42mm SNKP21J1 and the smaller 34mm SNK063J5.  Beyond the size, the main difference is the smaller version has an integrated bracelet, making it difficult to change out straps.  I own the 42mm and while it is larger than most watches in my collection, the 12.5mm thickness makes it wear much smaller and lie flat on the wrist.  There is a wide gap between the watch and the spring bar, making strap changes easy.  The visible caseback showing the 7S26 automatic movement is something that is always fun for those new to the hobby. Social Media and “Influence” Chrono24 video discussing correlation between W.O.E. posts and Seiko Arabic dial sales. The watch is also a story of social media “influence” and subliminal advertising.  After a month on the wrist, I posted it on the @watchesofespionage to my (then) 30,000+ followers in February 2022. Over the next 24 hours, Amazon’s price for the watch incrementally rose from $140 to well over $200, as followers were quick to visit the everything store. Within 48 hours demand surpassed supply, the watch sold out.  At time of writing, Amazon’s price for the watch is $213.01, nearly double what I paid for it. After analyzing purchasing data on Chono24 and other sites, Thomas Hendricks of Chrono24 crowned the Arabic Dials the top selling Seikos for 2022: We looked at the data and we saw spikes in sales correlating to posts from one popular account.  Watches of Espionage is a niche but influential account covering the intersection of watches and spycraft, run by an anonymous former CIA operative.  Followers of the account will remember that WOE published an article detailing his love for these Seiko references in early August of this year.  Subsequently, sales for these two references spiked significantly on Chrono24 and other platforms in the following weeks.  I now wonder how many people have purchased the Arabic Seiko watch after seeing coverage on the Watches of Espionage platform, my guess is in the thousands of pieces, most purchased online or the lucky few able to secure one in a more memorable place like Dubai.   W.O.E. personal Arabic Seiko, Photo Credit: James Rupley Advertising and Influencers We are bombarded with advertising, especially on social media, however the modern consumer (you) is not stupid.  The “wisdom of the crowd” can see through most marketing schemes and identify platforms that are genuine.  One of the reason’s the Watches of Espionage community continues to grow is authenticity, and the increase in sales of this watch is a perfect example. Despite a proposal from a major retailer for an official “affiliate” relationship (which we declined), W.O.E. hasn’t received financial remuneration from Seiko or any other company for promoting this timepiece.  This is authentic and organic promotion for altruistic reasons.  One of our goals at Watches of Espionage is preserving and promoting watch culture in the National Security space, and this watch is a fun entrée to the world of automatic watches, especially for those who wore Digital Tool Watches during the Global War on Terror (GWOT). W.O.E. personal Arabic Seiko, Photo Credit: James Rupley Conclusion At the end of the day, I do not care if you buy this watch or any other for that matter.  But if this unique and affordable timepiece catches your interest and expands your view of time, that is a good thing. Despite my now extensive and growing watch collection, the Arabic Seiko will continue to adorn my wrist on a regular basis, including this visit to the United Kingdom.  This watch has been on my wrist in 8 countries on three continents.  It has flown in helicopters, skied down mountains and been inside more than a few SCIFs.  If it is lost, stolen or damaged, it can be easily replaced at an affordable price, even if slightly inflated after the release of this article. READ NEXT: CIA Analysis Of Foreign Leaders’ Timepieces   This article has been reviewed by the CIA's Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information. *As a disclaimer, as Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases. When you click on links to various books in this article and make a purchase, this can result in Watches of Espionage earning a commission. If you’re interested in these books and want to make a purchase using these links, we appreciate your support.

In this edition of the Dispatch, we answer some common questions we get about W.O.E., timepieces and the Intelligence Community at large. Many of these responses can even serve as stand alone stories– and probably will at some point–but for now, here’s some additional insight on Watches of Espionage. If you have any more questions, please ask in the comments section and we will address next time. See past questions “Ask W.O.E. Anything Part I” What advice do you have for buying watches? There are more resources than ever before on watches, and if you are reading this then you’ve already demonstrated that you’re pretty far down the rabbit hole.  Here are a few tips below for those looking to get into watches.  Also check out our previous Dispatch on “Best watches under $1,000” as a good starting point. Buy what makes you happy; no one else cares what you are wearing and 99.9% of people will not notice the watch you have on your wrist. (This one is cliché but it’s entirely true.) Buy the watch you can afford. You won't be happy if you spend more than you can afford, as “buyer’s remorse” is real and can undermine the sense of satisfaction from wearing the watch. Don't buy for investment. Your watch may appreciate, but buy with the expectation you will wear it until you die (and a loved one will wear it after you die). Values are generally trending downward in the watch world anyway. That’s not what they’re made for, and treating a watch like a financial instrument takes away something from the hobby. When in doubt, stick with a known brand: Seiko, Rolex, Breitling, Omega, Tudor, JLC, IWC, Bremont, Patek, etc.  There are some great micro brands out there (like Tornek-Rayville), but also a lot with smoke and mirrors, especially in the “tactical” space. Rome wasn’t built in a day. Any worthwhile watch company wasn’t either. Buy the seller and build a relationship with that person. If the deal looks too good to be true, it probably is.  A lot of people have had great experiences with Ebay and other online forums, but there is something about building a relationship with the actual person selling the watch that makes it special. Plus, it’s very easy to get burned on Ebay. It’s less easy to get burned by someone you know and trust. Take your time. Do your research. Even if you have the money to buy the watch you want right away, spend time learning about the different variations and history of the reference or brand. This will likely change your outlook and make you appreciate the watch you end up with even more. As a closing remark, don't feel like you need a "luxury watch," a ~$500 watch can be just as meaningful as a $5,000 watch. How do I organize Unit watch? After our “Tudors of Espionage” piece, we received a lot of queries on how to organize a “unit watch” for a specific military, law enforcement or intelligence organization.  We have heard from our industry contacts that companies across the board have received an increase in these requests.  This is cool, because “unit watches” are at the heart of watch culture in the National Security community and closely tied to the idea of “Watches of Espionage.” To review, a unit watch is a timepiece that is customized by the manufacturer for members of a specific unit or organization inside the military.  Customizations can include the unit’s insignia or motto on the dial and/or an engraving on the caseback. Occasionally, markings can be applied to the side of the case as well.   We will continue to go deeper on various unit watch programs (like Bremont Military and Special Project's Division) and guide those looking to organize a custom watch for their organization, but in the meantime, here are some initial steps: Do it: To accomplish anything in the government, you need an internal champion.  Be that champion. Nothing will happen otherwise. Build Internal Support:  For most custom watch programs, you need a minimum of 50 pieces. It needs to make sense for a manufacturer to tool up to produce a custom watch, which incurs a significant cost on their end.  Start building support within the organization and gauge interest from other unit members.  Take the opportunity to educate non-watch members why a watch is a great way to commemorate a moment in time and one's service.  Seek approval from the unit/command leadership if needed. Explore Brands: There are some great brands that provide unit watches. Each one has its pros and cons.  Decide on 3-4 that work for your unit's culture. As a starting point, look at Breitling, IWC, Omega, Tudor, Bremont Watch Company, Elliot Brown, CWC, Seiko, and Sangin Instruments. Contact the brands:  For larger brands (Tudor, IWC, Omega, etc) visit a local boutique/Authorized Dealer and explain what you're looking to accomplish.  You need someone on the inside to help shepherd you through the process, as it can often be opaque.  For smaller brands (Elliot Brown, CWC, Sangin) you should reach out directly through the website.  Some companies like Bremont have formal “Special Projects” programs and make it seamless; others are more based on personal relationships.  Ideally, have a specific idea of what you are looking for, i.e. a specific reference and design/location of the insignia. Be Patient:  These things take time.  Having spoken with some of the individuals who have shepherded Tudor pieces, these projects can take over a year for delivery. Automatic vs Quartz? There is nothing wrong with quartz movements, and anyone who says otherwise is a nerd.  Not a good “watch nerd,” just a nerd.  In general I prefer an automatic timepiece because I appreciate the craftsmanship it takes to produce an automatic movement.  Operationally, there is a strong argument for an automatic movement, as batteries will always die at the wrong time.   That said, some of the greatest military watches are quartz: CWC, Elliot Brown, and Marathon, not to mention the venerable Breitling Aerospace.  A quartz movement is likely more accurate than an automatic movement and some of these pieces are just as fashionable and robust.  There is something satisfying about picking up a watch and knowing that the date and time are set. They both have their place in the watch world.  Again, these are tools and you choose the right tool for the task. Does the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board (PCRB) censor your writing? The CIA does not “censor” my writing when it comes to beliefs, opinions, or watch content.  It does review my writing (including this piece) to ensure that it does not contain classified information.  All current and former CIA officers have a lifelong obligation to protect classified national security information, and one aspect of this lifelong commitment is submitting writing to the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board (PCRB).  This is a good thing, as it protects every party involved.  Overall, I have found the review process relatively smooth.  Like most “formers” who write about the intelligence field, I have a general understanding of what we can and cannot say and there have been no major issues with the PCRB.  There are occasionally times when the PCRB will remove a location, word, or sentence, but overall it has not impacted the core points of any of the stories I’ve written. As a private citizen, I am free to express my own opinions about the government, CIA, or watches, and I have not heard of any cases where a former CIA officer’s opinions or writings were “censored” in the traditional sense.  It appears as though the CIA has made a conscious decision to be forward-leaning by allowing formers to write (relatively) openly about their experiences.  This is also a good thing.  My personal opinion is that the Intelligence Community should protect secrets, but should also be open in educating the public on what we do.  There are a lot of misconceptions about the CIA and we are in a position to dispel those myths and educate people on the reality. By writing semi-openly, we can achieve that.  Do you sleep with your watch on? (We have received this question a lot.) I do not. Does anyone? That's weird.  I actually find myself taking my watch off often when I am at home, when typing on the computer, doing chores etc.  I haven't really put much thought into why this is but I have never slept with a watch on, and I don’t even put it on my bedside table unless traveling.  Generally, I take my watch off in the bathroom or office and have been using a W.O.E. EDC Valet in both. If anyone does sleep with their watch on, I would love to hear their rationale in the comments. Thoughts on tactical micro-brands?  Are you a poser if you did not serve in the military? When you buy a watch–any watch– you are buying into that brand and the community and reputation the brand commands.  This is especially true with micro brands/tactical brands. There are some great micro brands/tactical brands out there and several were highlighted in the “Best Watches Under $1,000” Dispatch.  That said, I do not have much first hand experience with them, so I will reserve judgment.  If you are interested in a tactical brand, I encourage you to really do your research.   In my opinion, Sangin Instruments is one of, if not the, leader in this space.  Started by a Marine Raider, they make great watches but perhaps more importantly, they’ve built a true community around the brand.  Though largely driven by the active duty military and veterans, one does not have to be a veteran to take part and you are by no means a poser if you support this brand. One other that I have also personally owned is RESCO Instruments, which was started by a former SEAL. Similar to Sangin, they have strong support from the active duty military and make a robust toolwatch. Starting a watch company is hard, really hard.  There is a reason the top watch brands have been around for over a century.  Do your research: many of these companies have good intentions, slick websites and lots of tactical dudes wearing them, but actually building a company like Sangin and RESCO is not easy or for the faint hearted. Final thought, any brand that gets you interested in watches is a good thing.  If you like the aesthetic of a watch and the guys building a brand, buy one. Try it out.  It’s all just a part of the larger process of going deeper into the hobby.  Favorite city to visit? Istanbul, Turkey; Beirut, Lebanon; Cape Town, South Africa. If you had to choose only one watch to keep forever, what would it be? From an emotional standpoint, it would likely be the titanium Royal Jordanian Breitling Aerospace, a gift from His Majesty King Abdullah II bin Al-Hussein, but from a purely aesthetic and functional perspective, it would be my Rolex GMT-Master II, an early 2000s black and red “Coke” ref 16710. For years, I have said that the Rolex GMT–any execution of the watch– is the ultimate CIA Case Officer’s watch– a classy and refined tool that signals to others you are a man of culture, yet don’t mind getting your hands dirty. A Case Officer has been described as a “PhD that can win in a bar fight,” and that fictional person would wear a Rolex GMT.  While this is less true today with the astronomical prices of “new” pre-owned models, there is still a lot of truth to it.  When traveling, the quick-change date and GMT functionality are useful for telling the time back home, and a simple wrist check is easier than pulling out a phone. The watch also captures the spirit of the often-romanticized ‘50s Rolex GMT, originally developed in the 1950s for commercial Pan Am pilots. I have an old “Root Beer” ref 16753, but the newer model is more robust and still maintains some of the vintage aspects, including drilled lug holes and the aluminum bezel.  The “Pepsi” of course is a classic, but there is something about the red and black that I have always gravitated towards.  It is just different enough to make it stand out but still retains that timeless appeal of the classic bi-color bezel formula.  How has your interest in watches evolved over time? My personal interest in watches has evolved greatly over the past year as my collection has expanded. My collection and my interest grew together in tandem.  I’m still interested in modern tool watches, but have gone down the vintage military-issued watch rabbit hole.  I recently acquired a South African issued Tudor Milsub ref 7016 and a US Navy UDT/SEAL-issued Tudor 7928.  Both of these watches are “grail” pieces for me, and for the time being I am satisfied and have so much history to learn and uncover when it comes to the pieces I already own.  I will continue to be on the lookout for unique watches with military provenance.  There is something special about owning a piece of history and being able to wear it on your wrist. What are your thoughts on watch modifications? I have never modified a watch before, but this is something I would really like to explore in the future.  The idea of taking a Tudor Black Bay 58 or an Arabic Seiko as a blank canvas and personalizing it is incredibly intriguing.  This is still a controversial practice for much of the traditional watch community.  George Bamford originally made a name for himself by customizing Rolex watches into unconventional designs, much to the chagrin of the Swiss luxury brands. Customized “Commando” Rolex Submariner (Bamford Watch Department) That said, I am not attracted to customizing a timepiece to look like another timepiece, aka a “Homage” customization.  If this makes you excited, then I am happy for you, but it is not for me. Before selling out and going corporate, our friend and spiritual mentor Cole Pennington wrote a piece for Hodinkee defending homage pieces.  I generally agree with everything Cole writes, but when it comes to this topic I respectfully disagree.  Cole points out that there is a “big difference” between homage pieces and counterfeits, but in reality whether produced by a manufacturer or individually customized, the difference is often not that big.  I would rather purchase (and wear) a Seiko that looks like a Seiko, than a Seiko that has been retrofitted to look like a Rolex. What is the future of Watches of Espionage? What new products and will they be in stock? W.O.E is and always will be an enthusiast platform.  The reason we are successful is that we are passionate about watches (and espionage) and that’s our core fundamental driving force–not profiting from the watch community.  Our goal for Watches of Espionage is to become the number one resource for military, intelligence and national security content as it relates to timepieces.  We have just scratched the surface and have a lot more to explore. We have made a lot of progress over the past year, with the launch of the website and initial W.O.E. products.  Our main focus is building a community of like-minded individuals who appreciate history and an interest in timepieces.  Content will continue to be our main focus and our intention is to keep this free and open to everyone.   Much of the watch industry works on a “pay to play” model where brands sponsor content or invite journalists to “exclusive” press trips which inevitably influences any potential watch review. Our goal is to avoid this model and remain an impartial third party in the watch industry. We will support brands and people who are doing good things.  If we enter into a partnership with a brand, it will be on our terms and will not be just a transaction for cash to exploit our relationship with the community. Obviously this takes significant time and money and will only increase as we continue to expand.  After thoughtful consideration, we moved into the product space, and have found this equally fulfilling to create novel and exciting products for our community.  We appreciate those who have supported W.O.E.-- as this support will give us the opportunity for increased quality content.  Over the coming year, we hope to expand the number of articles per week and potentially move into other mediums.  Regarding products, we are working on some new and exciting projects and hope to have some in stock at all points.  We are in the initial steps on a coffee table book that we hope to be available in 2024. This year, we have raised over $23,000 for Third Option Foundation and we have more fundraisers scheduled for this year that will be both meaningful and interesting. As always, thank you for the support.  This would not be possible without you. Read Next: Vietnam MACV-SOG Seikos: Setting The Record Straight *Unless otherwise noted, pictures are of W.O.E.'s personal collection by James Rupley.

One of the most common questions we receive from active duty military, law enforcement and intelligence officers is how to organize a “unit watch.”  We have previously profiled Tudor’s unit watch program and plan to cover all of the major players in this space.    UK-based Bremont Watch Company has made significant headway in capturing the market and providing unique watches to military and intelligence units, including the highest tiers of the US Intelligence, Aviation and Special Operations community. In order to document a first hand perspective, we asked Nic, an Australian military pilot, to write a Dispatch on his experience organizing a custom Bremont for his squadron. As always, this content is not sponsored and the views and perspectives are of the author.  At W.O.E., we are brand agnostic but do support any brand that supports our community. Aviation Unit Watch Case Study: Bremont Military and Special Projects Division The EA-18G Bremont U-2 on the wrist of a Growler pilot (Photo Credit: @outboundcourse)  In the world of horology, Bremont is a relative newcomer, having been founded by brothers Nick and Giles English in 2002. The siblings, inspired by their father’s passion for both aviation and mechanical devices, merged their interests to design, manufacture and release their first pilot's watch in 2007. Bremont arrived on the scene as a fresh contender at a time when established players were coincidently shifting their focus away from the aviation and military markets towards more mainstream celebrity brand ambassadors. In 2009, U-2 spy plane pilots from Beale Air Force Base, California contacted Bremont to see if the brand would be willing to create a bespoke watch for their squadron. Bremont subsequently produced and delivered the watch as its first ever military project in 2010. The following year, they launched a partnership with ejection seat manufacturer Martin Baker and started to garner interest from the global military aviation community. Bremont was then approached by the US Navy Test Pilot School, USAF C-17 Globemaster community and US Navy VFA-81 Sunliners Squadron and asked to produce special military watches for their members. The Military and Special Projects Bremont made for U-2 spy plane pilots was the brand’s first custom military watch. (Photo credit: @bremontmilitary) Once the custom C-17 watch appeared on social media in 2012, the brand received significantly more attention from potential military clients. To cater for this increase in queries and requests for projects, Bremont’s Military and Special Project Division was established by Catherine Villeneuve. Over ten years later, Catherine – who is also Nick English’s wife – leads a sizable and dedicated team as Bremont’s Head of Military and Special Projects. The C-17A Bremont ALT1-WT (Photo credit: @bremontmilitary) I first heard about Bremont from a friend who had run his own project and so got in touch with the brand’s Military and Special Projects team in 2016 to enquire about developing a watch for my Australian squadron of KC-30A air-to-air refueling aircraft. Once I’d established contact the process was straight forward. Due to the expeditionary nature of our work, I chose the Bremont World Timer as a base model and then started the back-and-forth with the Bremont design team to determine how to make the project unique and meaningful to those of us who would eventually wear it. This mainly consisted of me sending poorly constructed Microsoft Paint pictures of airplanes and crests pasted onto watches and them responding with high quality renderings of potential design options. As the military traditionally offers limited opportunities for creative expression within its ranks, I really enjoyed the opportunity to play designer with the guidance from Bremont’s professionals. Catherine explains that “The design focus is to base the client’s idea around an existing model, staying true to our brand DNA and then elegantly and subtly integrating design details within the watch dial and sometimes other watch parts, to best identify the military squadron, unit or community”. The “triple seven," an Afghan unit trained/mentored by Americans for air lift assets, most notably the Russian built Mi-17.  This watch was produced by Bremont for the American servicemen supporting that unit. Bremont distinguishes itself from many competitors’ military offerings by allowing extensive customisation options. Beyond simply featuring aircraft silhouettes on the dial or unit crests on the case back, clients can opt for a variety of modifications, depending on the size of their order. For example, the C-130J Hercules project features a small seconds hand shaped like the aircraft’s six-blade propellers; the F-14 Tomcat project has hands coloured to match the jet’s tailhook; and the movement rotors of the A-10C project are carved into the shape of the Hawg’s iconic 30mm autocannon. For our project we were able to use a GMT hand coloured to match our refueling boom and a bespoke time zone bezel that showed the ICAO codes of our frequently visited airports and air bases. The C-130J Bremont ALT1-Z (Photo credit: @bremontmilitary) There are still some design rules to adhere to – Catherine notes “We have detailed documents regarding specific Terms and Conditions when it comes to designing and purchasing a Bremont Military and Special Project watch”. However, IYKYK acronyms sometimes appear on project dials that may skirt some of the restrictions (see: USAF KC-135’s “NKAWTG”, F-16CJ Super Weasel’s “YGBSM” and RAAF 75SQN’s “YKYMF”). Custom Bremont MBIIIs for F-16CJ Super Weasels and RAAF 75SQN (Photo credit @bremontmilitary) Once our design was finalized and eligibility criteria set, it was time for me to collect orders from my colleagues to meet the minimum number requirements. The amount of emotional energy invested during the design phase made this portion of the process particularly stressful. For many at military units, this is their first foray into the world of luxury mechanical watches so justifying the price tag can be a difficult feat but to help with this, Bremont offers significant discounts to it’s military customers. Once the minimum numbers were met and deposits paid, production began with the final product being delivered about nine months later. While the completion of production and delivery marks the end of the journey for most customers, a significant number of us choose to maintain a connection with the brand by engaging through social media, sharing photos of watches in action (use your tools!) or by dropping into local boutiques to share a story and enjoy a drink. It’s also worth noting the project leader can decide whether the project is a limited run or not. Even years after the first batch of deliveries, latecomers such as new squadron members or people who didn’t have the funds at the time can still get on board as Bremont maintains contact with the original project leader to ensure accurate verification of eligibility. Bremont's Military and Special Projects Division has become a pillar of the brand's success, accounting for almost 20% of its total sales. Interestingly, design ideas incubated by military projects can also overflow to Bremont’s core range. For example, the ALT1-WT was inspired by the C-17 Globemaster watch, the ALT-1B from a B-2 bomber project and the U-22 from an F-22 Raptor project. The purple, bronze and titanium-colored barrels across the MB range were all first featured on military projects. The F-22 Bremont U-22. The exposed date wheel was first for the brand and went on to inform the design of the civilian U-22 model. (Photo credit @bremontmilitary) The Bremont Military Instagram account showcases a myriad of professional and user-submitted photos, providing a glimpse into the vast number of individual projects the Military and Special Projects Division have produced with many more discreet projects remaining unseen by the public and unspoken about by the brand. When asked which projects were her personal favorites, Catherine responded “There are so many I could mention. Over the last 13 years Bremont has created and delivered almost 500 different military and special projects. Some of them are incredibly exciting but sadly the details of many projects cannot be shared. Design-wise, I would say the F-35 collection (F-35A, F-35B, F-35C and F-35 Dambuster) is very cool, the RAF Lancaster Bomber, HSM-85 Squadron, 89th Airlift, Grim Reapers 493rd Fighter Squadron, RSAF Tornado, the Royal Marine 350th, the new Royal Navy Submariners and of course the Australian KC-30A are personal favorites.” The KC-30A Bremont ALT1-WT on the beaches of Diego Garcia (Photo credit @bremontmilitary) Although military projects account for about 80% of the timepieces produced by the Military and Special Projects Division, watches are also made for civilian organizations. These clients have included BAE Systems, Oxbridge alumni, Rapha, FedEx pilots, Aston Martin Owners’ Club, Heathrow Air Traffic Controllers, REORG veterans’ charity, as well as rugby and cricket clubs. Moving forward, we can expect to see (or maybe only hear rumors of) many more bespoke Bremont Military and Special Projects watches that not only tell the time, but also tell the stories of the elite units, squadrons, ships and regiments that they have been created for.  READ NEXT: Marathon, Watch Maker For The Modern Military Author: Nic is an Australian military pilot that has been a follower of W.O.E. since the early days. He has a particular interest in custom military watch projects having designed and produced timepieces with multiple brands

The connection between watches and the military, the dangers of commercial espionage and the influence of firearms manufacturing on the watch industry. by Aaron Stark In December 2022 I published Disrupting Time: Industrial combat, espionage, and the downfall of a great American company. I got started on this mission of exploration after inheriting a pocket watch from my great grandfather and wanting to learn more about it and the Waltham Watch Co. 1903 Waltham Watch, which I inherited from my great grandfather - author’s photo On the surface it tells the never-told story of two Swiss spies who came to America in 1876 and stole the secrets of the American watch industry, used it to transform the Swiss to mechanized watch production, and how the recovering Swiss watch industry overwhelmed their main target – the Waltham Watch Co of Waltham, Massachusetts. However, the story runs much deeper, touching on the dangers of insider threats and espionage to corporations, the role of timekeeping in the development of modern society, and the impacts of strategic choices made by companies and entire industries that impact their survival or failure. Accordingly, the book has found a wide and diverse audience including historians, business professionals, intelligence professionals, watch enthusiasts, and those who follow the impact of industrial espionage in current events.  Despite the many themes explored in the book, three stand out most saliently to me. These are covered in the book, but the nice thing about writing articles like this is that there are so many more anecdotes that you come across in researching for which there is not room in the book. You can also check out my website to see additional photos and read some of the historical sources I mention.  Waltham Watch dial from an Ellery watch – author’s photo The dangers of industrial espionage One must only read the Wall Street Journal or Financial Times for a week or two before they will see some reference to industrial espionage and its impact, typically related to technology related companies. The concept of stealing technology is well known in history. Some of the most famous targets of industrial espionage were porcelain, silk, and textile manufacturing. The Lowell Mills of Lowell, Massachusetts resulted from Francis Cabot Lowell stealing trade secrets from the English. However, the term industrial espionage is relatively new – it began appearing in historical documents in the early twentieth century and became a mainstream term in the second half of the twentieth century.  In many respects, our view of it has been shaped by the passage of the 1996 Industrial Espionage Act, though many laws touched on the concept, dating back to the 1700s in England. Regardless of the technical legal definitions, there is no doubt that industrial espionage plays a role in economic development and the success of companies. A 2016 economic study found significant evidence of the effects of industrial espionage between East and West Germany. The authors concluded that East Germany would not have been able to maintain its economic near-parity with West Germany had it not been so successful in stealing trade secrets. Thus, the authors conclude: “Our results provide evidence of significant economic returns to industrial espionage.”  Disrupting Time tells one of the most well-documented and illuminated stories of industrial espionage from pre-World War I. While a new story to most – Disrupting Time was the first published research to tell the story –the spies documented their work in copious detail. Jacques David was the main spy, accompanied by his partner Theo Gribi, a watchmaker. David was an engineer and watchmaker who had a strong understanding of emerging mechanized industries. These two men were dispatched by the Society of Jura Industries (SIIJ), a trade association representing the businesses and industries of western Switzerland. They were in America for approximately three months, using this time to sneak into America’s technology leader – the Waltham Watch Co, and also recruiting company insiders and acquiring company documents.  Gribi – left, from “Horology,” June 1937 During their time in America, they wrote letters back to Switzerland giving insight into the mind and method of 19th century industrial spies. They concluded their mission by writing a 130-page report. Their report would remain secret until 1992 but became more widely known when it was translated to English in 2003. From David and Gribi’s 130-page report, it was obvious they had abnormal access to detailed financial information about Waltham, but I couldn’t figure out how, and skeptics kept telling me that maybe Waltham naively shared this information with the Swiss.  The story of their work as spies did not come together until the report could be combined with a key letter they wrote. In David’s letter back to Switzerland from September 1876, he wrote “I sped through [the Waltham factory] quickly and incognito and saw the poor arrangements that I already knew about.” He also wrote about an inside source he recruited: “we tried to work out [Waltham’s] outgoings without reaching a precise result. Mr W, the former director on the mechanical side who is helping us in this respect…” (see page 113 of Disrupting Time). This letter connected many dots that were missing between David’s report just being an interesting document, to identifying it as a product of espionage. Mr W referred to Ambrose Webster, Waltham’s former assistant superintendent and one of the early Waltham godfathers who invented much of the company’s automated production.  Ambrose Webster - The Keystone, December 1892, public domain Knowing of the Webster connection led to a second historical mystery to explore – Webster’s financial gain. When David published his report in 1877, he recommended Webster as the best maker of tools for watchmaking and suggested the Swiss purchase from him. Accordingly, Webster, who retired from Waltham in the summer of 1876, quickly invested heavily in a venture that would produce watchmaking equipment. It is no surprise that during the fall of 1876, in David’s letter back to the SIIJ, he noted: “I cannot recommend wholeheartedly that W. [Webster] be engaged by a group of manufacturers or by one company, but I still believe this man will be a great help in any reorganization measures that we decide to implement.”  While Webster was providing sensitive information to David, David was securing Webster’s long-term involvement in the Swiss transformation through business opportunities. Webster’s involvement remained a secret until 2022. In many pocket watch and Waltham history circles, Webster is considered one of the founding fathers who is revered, thus his involvement with the Swiss is stunning to many Waltham historians. Waltham would not have existed without Webster, but his defection through a probable quid-pro-quo arrangement with the Swiss resulted in Waltham’s eventual downfall. Connection of watches and the military As a veteran of the Army, I especially connected with the heritage of watches and the military, and their resulting impact on society. The Waltham Watch Company gained much of its early fame for its production of the Ellery model, which quickly became known as the Soldier’s Watch during the American Civil War. It cost about two months wages for a private in the Union Army, yet there is much evidence to indicate that soldiers bought them anyway. Their ubiquity in the Army during the Civil War had much to do with an increased emphasis on synchronization during warfare, combined with the fact that there were few clocks in the field. If a soldier wanted to keep track of the time, they needed a watch.  My own timekeeping in combat - an Omega Speedmaster X-33. I could easily relate to the Civil War soldier’s desire to know the time - and spending more than necessary to do it - author’s photo As I was putting together my book, one anonymous reviewer questioned the idea that soldiers would pay two months salary for a watch – it seemed like too much money for an unnecessary item. When I read that comment, I knew this reviewer had never served in the military! Even now, soldiers spend disproportionate amounts on watches whether they be a nice G-Shock, Rolex, or Breitling. I often attribute this military connection to watches to be much more than a need to know the time; rather it is the one item that a soldier can take with them, it reflects their identity, and it is a valuable tool. These were all attributes expressed by Civil War soldiers as well. Much of the research I came across felt like a multi-century connection between soldiers and their love of watches.  A Massachusetts's 13th Infantry Regiment Soldier from the Civil War, showing off his watch. Provided courtesy of Clint Geller, author of The Appreciation and Authentication of Civil War Time Pieces. (Liljenquist Family Collection, Library of Congress Archives).  The connection of soldiers to their reliable-but-affordable Waltham Watches during the Civil War began a societal transformation. As millions of soldiers left the service, they took their watches and concept of time-consciousness with them. The year for which Disrupting Time is centered – 1876, Americans and the world were experiencing a revolution in timekeeping making the watch industry central to society and the tech industry of its day. By 1880, it was said that people were now expected to be someplace on time, whether that be work or the theater. In 1870, about 1-in-20 American adults owned a watch. By 1900, this per-capita ownership would quadruple to 1-in-5.   Connection of firearms to watches Springfield Model 1873 Trapdoor Rifle (from Gromitsonabarth, Wikimedia,  CC-BY-SA-4.0) In an earlier section, I mentioned Ambrose Webster, an American inventor who became a recruited agent for the Swiss watch industry. Webster actually got his start at the Springfield Armory where firearms were being mass produced by the 1850s. Webster left the armory and joined Waltham shortly after its founding as a chief mechanic. Webster began to reorient the entire factory at Waltham to be more than just a collection of highly-skilled watchmakers operating in the same building. He introduced early automation that allowed Waltham to hire semi-skilled workers who knew little to nothing about watchmaking. He became the principal inventor of many machines, allowing Waltham to quickly scale its production. In 1857, it took Waltham twice as long as the Swiss to produce a watch. Within a few short years, Waltham produced watches in half the time that it took the skilled Swiss watchmakers.  Inside the Waltham Watch Co around the time David and Gribi targeted the company – W.A. Webster, public domain Webster’s ability to bring the concept of firearms mass production to watches completely revolutionized the watch industry. It was also what alarmed and motivated the Swiss when they saw these novel systems in 1876. Waltham’s systems continued to become more automated as they invested heavily in invention and capital. By 1890, Waltham’s systems would be near-fully automated with handling systems. It was probably around this time that Henry Ford would visit the factory and get the idea for the assembly line for automobiles. Ford’s grandson, Henry Ford II said “I think - I always understood...[Henry Ford] got the idea from the Waltham Watch Company originally by seeing watches going down on an assembly line and he felt that [technique] could be applied to the manufacture of automobiles. There are some other stories prevalent, but that is the one I always heard. So that is the one I believe to be the truth.” (source: “Sidelights of the Day: Show the Boss the Ad,” New York Times, May 9, 1953, 253). In conclusion Disrupting Time is a book that weaves together many themes. This era was truly one of revolutionary change in society. As one reviewer noted, the espionage discussed in the book occurred because watches and timekeeping were so central to the economy of that time. If you find any of the topics discussed in this article to be of interest, I encourage you to check out the book, either on Amazon, Audible, or iTunes. It tells the story of cutthroat competition, industrial espionage, societal development, and a great world’s fair. The competition in this era was so intense it was even referred to as “combat of industry” by one contemporary observer.  The Swiss watchmakers and Waltham viewed their situation through such a lens, using similar bellicose imagery. David would refer to the American watch companies as “a courageous and well armed adversary.”  Meanwhile, Waltham’s chief executive also viewed the situation as a protracted war: “if we can't live in peace we must live on a war-footing…I propose to make the fighting as effective as possible.” You can find more information about Disrupting Time on Aaron’s website, aaronstarkbooks.com. He enjoys hearing from readers and talking with groups about the book. You can contact him through the website.  Aaron Stark is the author of Disrupting Time: industrial combat, espionage, and the downfall of a great American company. He is a former assistant professor of economics at West Point and a veteran of the US Army. READ NEXT: Jordanian Breitling: The Gift From A King That Spawned A CIA Case Officer's Love Of Timepieces

Travel Pouch And Challenge Coin - Third Option Foundation Fundraise Modern Navy SEAL Watch Culture - GBRS Group and Watches of Espionage Collaboration  We have written extensively about the history of Navy SEALs and watches.  From Tudor Submariner 7928’s issued in Vietnam and Seiko 6309-7049’s during the Cold War days to the modern day Digital Tool Watches of the legendary G-Shock.  In present day Naval Special Warfare, watch culture is strong and many “Team Guys” have high end tool watches, including Rolex, Breitling, Panerai, Tudor, Omega, Bremont and various other timepieces. The reason is simple.  Many of the modern day “tool watches” were originally designed for maritime use, and specifically as military dive watches.  The predecessors of the modern Frogmen were the intended end user for the tool watches of the mid-20th century. Wearing these pieces in the present day is a nod to those who came before, the forefathers who developed the fieldcraft and tactics employed today. In the culture of Intelligence and Special Operations heritage and history is important.  We honor those who paved the way for our trade. Original UDT/SEAL issued Tudor Submariner ref. 7928 (James Rupley) To the outsider, modern day SEAL watch culture can be difficult to comprehend.  Why would a SEAL with a limited government salary spend that much money on a watch?  The idea seems to contradict the practical nature of SOF, which favors function over everything else.  In preparation for the GBRS-W.O.E. fundraiser for Third Option Foundation, we asked former Navy SEALs Cole Fackler and DJ Shipley to give a Rundown of their personal experience with watches and watch culture in the SEAL Teams. As stated by former Navy SEAL and co-founder of GBRS Group:  “It’s a part of the culture and tells a lot about the wearer of that particular piece.  The cost isn’t as important as the backstory or the sentimental value of a piece and the story you both share together.In the military you are issued particular watches, most get a standard watch like a G-Shock, easy to operate and can withstand almost anything that the user can.  As we got older it became custom to upgrade your issued watch for a more luxury watch as a statement piece.As you hit certain goals and milestones in life, you would add a timepiece to remember the occasion or that period in your life.  It was customary in the SEAL Teams to wear a Rolex at a certain stage in your career, you treated that watch just like it was a hundred dollar G-Shock, you did everything in it.It was always a funny sight in a chow hall overseas, all the guys have long hair and beards, covered in dust from the helicopters, absolutely filthy and still have on a Rolex. There is a cult following around watches that plagues a lot of us.” W.O.E.-GBRS Group Collaboration - Third Option Foundation Fundraise Earlier this year we approached GBRS Group about a possible collaboration for charity.  Cole and DJ agreed without hesitation and were eager to support Third Option Foundation, a nonprofit organization supporting the CIA’s paramilitary officers of the Special Activities Center (SAC).  The relationship between Naval Special Warfare and the CIA is close, particularly for the paramilitary officers who recruit heavily from the SEAL Teams. “TOF provides funding to the Agencies Paramilitary officers, a lot are former colleagues, and suffer severe injuries while working with that organization.  The Third Option Foundation bridges the gap and supports those still in the shadows that never receive recognition for their sacrifices.  As a small way to say thank you, we donated the last of our AOR1 uniforms to be used in making these travel cases.  The funds raised support a fantastic group of people who truly deserve it. If you’re a watch enthusiast, you’re gonna want this for your collection.” Thank you to everyone who made this possible.  Please consider a donation to Third Option Foundation to support the men and women at the tip of the spear. For additional information on Navy SEAL Watches: A Navy SEAL’s Rolex Submariner On The Osama Bin Laden Raid SEAL Team Six And A U.S. Navy-Issued Seiko Turtle The History Of Casio G-Shocks And The US Military The Pragmatic Journey Of A SEAL Through Watch Collecting

Mercenaries, Arms Dealers, CIA Contractors, and Navy SEALs – a timepiece can complement a fictional character. Watches play a significant role in film. An accurate depiction of a character often includes a watch they might actually wear, and this is especially true in the military, intelligence and espionage genre. When this happens, it lends a sense of credibility to the work.  This is likely a mixture of art imitating life and vice versa.  Believe it or not, we know plenty of real “spies” and “operators” whose watch choices were influenced by movies.  The Bond Omega and Bond Rolex are obvious ones. But other watches are also featured on the silver screen, and we’ll explore them here. (Photo Credit James Rupley) In Hollywood, watch decisions range from paid product placement (as seen with the Bond Omega) to actors' personal watches worn on set and prop masters making specific choices for what they deem is best for that character.  It’s a small detail, but as enthusiasm around horology grows, and viewers develop a more nuanced understanding of the details that make up a character for the growing number of watch enthusiasts, the watch becomes an element that says a lot about a character.  In this piece, we’ll take a look at several examples of W.O.E. in Hollywood and provide our thoughts on the watch choices for a given character.  Blood Diamond- Breitling Chrono Avenger: In Blood Diamond, Danny Archer, a Rhodesian smuggler and ex-mercenary, embarks on a hair-raising adventure to find a large diamond in the midst of the Sierra Leone Civil War. Leonardo DiCarprio's character wears a Breitling Chrono Avenger, with a black dial and solid titanium 44mm case on a brown calf leather strap.  Overall, this watch nails it.  We all know that sketchy dudes wear Breitling and a Rhodesian mercenary turned diamond smuggler is the very definition of sketchy.  The movie takes place in 1999, when Breitling was at the height of its sketchiness and was a go-to tool for gray area operators. Both former CEO of Blackwater Eric Prince and former British SAS turned African mercenary Simon Mann wore Breitling Emergencies.   Breitling has developed an almost cult-like following in the national security community. With strong roots in aviation, Breitling is a signal that one is adventurous but also appreciates fine craftsmanship in utilitarian tools. Breitling has cultivated this narrative through marketing and product development of unique tools for adventurers, particularly in the military and aviation space.  13 Hours: The Secret Soldiers of Benghazi - Rolex Submariner In 13 Hours, Ty "Rone" Woods, a CIA Global Response Staff contractor played by James Badge Dale, wore a six digit Rolex Submariner while defending the State Department facility and the CIA annex in Benghazi, Libya.  As a former SEAL turned GRS contractor, this choice makes sense given the Naval Special Warfare (NSW) community's long standing relationship with Rolex and Tudor.  As we have documented in the past, it is common for SEALs to commemorate a deployment or BUD/S graduation with a Rolex Submariner. In fact, according to research by Rolex Magazine, the real Tyrone had at least two watches: a Rolex Sea-Dweller reference 16660 and a Panerai Luminor Marina, which is also common in the Teams. As documented by Rolex Magazine, "On January 1st, 2010, late on a Friday night, he registered an account with RolexForums.com under the username sdfrog177. He wrote a post mentioning the sale of his Panerai Luminor Marina 44mm and a Rolex Sea-Dweller triple 6 model (1983-1984 model). Thanks, T.W., he signed at the bottom.” According to a declassified CIA document, “On the morning of September 12, the CIA Base was subjected to repeated mortar fire . . . Defending the Base from the rooftop, they died when a mortar round landed near them. Tyrone Woods loved his life, his family, and his country. All who knew him remember that he was a joy to be around and he always made people feel better. Tyrone was 41 years old.” Lord of War -  Platinum Rolex President Day-Date: Lord of War is a 2005 (mostly) fictional Hollywood account of the life of Viktor Bout, aka the "Merchant of Death," a notorious Russian arms dealer who took advantage of the fall of the Soviet Union to sell off the massive arms left over at significant profit. Yuri Orlov, played by Nicolas Cage, wears a platinum Rolex President Day-Date, overall a fitting timepiece for this uber-wealthy and charismatic character. Cage, an avid watch collector himself, has an impressive collection; it is possible this is a personal watch.  The real Merchant of Death, Viktor Bout, was arrested in a sting operation led by the US Drug Enforcement Administration (DEA) in Bangkok in 2008.  During his arrest, Bout was wearing a Breitling B-1, a watch that he was able to wear while in detention for at least a month.  Another sketchy dude wearing a Breitling . . . in the business, we call this a pattern.  Terminal List - Oris, RESCO Instruments, IWC, Ares and more: (Photo Credit: Justin Lubin) Watches play a central role in former SEAL-turned-writer Jack Carr’s Terminal List book series.  Central to the story of James Reece is a legacy Rolex Submariner, purchased by his father, Thomas Reece, during an R&R in Saigon during his first tour in Vietnam with SEAL Team Two. The elder Reece went on to wear this Sub while serving as a CIA Case Officer overseas (sound familiar?). So it is no surprise that the Amazon series adaptation contains several accurate and well-placed watches for the lead (James Reece) and supporting characters.  We are told that these choices were organic and not product placements, which makes it even cooler.  (Photo Credit: Justin Lubin) James Reece, played by Chris Pratt, wears several watches throughout the series, including an Oris Aquis Pro Date Calibre 400, Resco Instruments BlackFrog Gen2 Black PVD (an insider told us he wanted to wear a military watch in specific scenes), a G-Shock GA-100-1A1 and a period correct 5.11 Military Tactical Field Ops Watch.  Carr even makes a cameo in the film wearing an Ares Diver, who the founder of was former CIA. (Photo Credit: Justin Lubin) Overall, it is a well done series with great “watch spotting,” including several Oris, Digital Tool Watches (DTWs) and even an IWC Big Pilot IW500901 worn by Steve Horn (the villain- Jai Courtney).  Both Pratt and Carr are watch guys and it's cool to see these pieces featured, another subtle and accurate nod to our community. It’s always a joy when someone gets it right.  Magnum PI - Rolex Pepsi GMT-Master 16750: We have previously said that the Rolex GMT, any reference, is the ultimate CIA Case Officer’s watch– a classy and refined tool that signals to others you are a man of culture, yet don’t mind getting your hands dirty. The ideal Case Officer has been described as a “Ph.D. that can win a bar fight,” and this idiom covers Thomas Magnum well. (Photo Credit James Rupley) Magnum was a former SEAL, Naval Intelligence Officer and Vietnam War veteran. He’s the ultimate cool guy from the 80s and the Pepsi GMT is the perfect watch for him.  During an interview with Frank Rousseau, Selleck said of the watch: "I’ve always loved that watch. It was the perfect match for Magnum. It’s a watch that likes action, and believe me I know what I’m talking about. I’ve had my fair share of “sport” watches but never one as tough as the Rolex. It’s been underwater, buried in sand, taken I don’t know how many knocks, and never a problem. It’s called the Pepsi because the bezel colors are the same as the Pepsi logo. Personally, I thought the red went well with the Ferrari and the blue matched Hawaii’s lagoons and sky. " You might think you’re cool, and you might actually be cool, but you will never be Tom Selleck sporting a legendary mustache in a red Ferrari wearing a vintage Rolex GMT Pepsi cool.   -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: Prince Harry The Military Watch Enthusiast This article has been reviewed by the CIA's Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

Watches of the War in Ukraine - Mercenaries, Presidents, Generals, and Oligarchs - a conflict of timepieces

We are happy to announce the release of a special edition watch pouch and challenge coin in partnership with GBRS Group.  The pouch is constructed with repurposed issued AOR-1 camouflage uniforms worn by GBRS co-founders and former Navy SEALs Cole Fackler and DJ Shipley.  Each order includes a W.O.E.-GBRS challenge coin.  $40 of every purchase will be donated directly to Third Option Foundation, a nonprofit organization supporting the CIA’s paramilitary officers of the Special Activities Center (SAC).  We expect to raise over $20,000 and will provide proof of the donation once the fundraiser is complete. Cole and DJ with donated uniforms, Panerais on the wrist. Overview:  This release is an updated version of one of our best selling products, the W.O.E. Travel Pouch and challenge coin.  Made in the USA, the single watch case is durable, compact and functional, and honors our community with subtle accents. Like a great watch, the case is a tool, made to be used and to last decades. The GBRS AOR-1 case has an updated card with red trim and the GBRS Old-English “g” is on one side of the watch card and the back of the watch case. AOR-1:  The case flap keeper is constructed with repurposed issued AOR-1 camouflage uniforms worn by Cole and DJ.  AOR-1 was introduced in 2010 for Navy Special Operations and was developed for desert/arid environments.  The pattern has been used widely throughout the Middle East and Africa. DJ wearing AOR-1 camouflage during free fall training. GBRS Group:  GBRS Group is a veteran-owned, Tier 1 training and services organization committed to imparting critical skills and real-world experiences to end-users in military, federal, state and local special operations units.  GBRS Group was founded by Cole Fackler and DJ Shipley, two former Navy SEALs who served in NSW Development Group, the Navy’s Tier 1 Special Mission Unit. Cole deployed overseas with NSW. As previously discussed in the Dispatch, Naval Special Warfare (NSW) has a long history with timepieces.  Since the early 1960’s, frogmen have utilized tool watches including Tudor, Seiko, G-Shock and various other dive watches.  Today, NSW continues this tradition with a strong culture of high end tool watches, including Panerai, Rolex, Tudor, Bremont and various other timepieces. Third Option Foundation:  The name refers to the motto of CIA's Special Activities Center: Tertia Optio, the President’s third option when military force is inappropriate and diplomacy is inadequate. Third Option Foundation is dedicated to providing comprehensive family resiliency programs, working behind the scenes to quietly help those who quietly serve. “You will probably never know the names of these silent heroes who defend our safety and freedoms in the most distant corners of the world. They’re often the first in and the last to leave many conflicts around the globe. For decades, the operators of CIA's Special Operations units have served and sacrificed in quiet anonymity.  Particularly in the years since 9/11, this small group, along with their families, has borne an unprecedented burden in the fight to protect our nation. The nature of their service means they and their loved ones cannot seek the support or relief available to military service members and their families. Third Option Foundation is the only organization that fills this gap, by providing crucial survivorship assistance and resiliency programs to heal the wounded, help the families of those we have lost, and support those who are still serving. “I was the commander of a unit that, within the span of about 18 months, sustained a number of casualties of operators killed in action overseas. There were more than a dozen children who were suddenly without fathers, and wives who had lost their husbands. As we were flying across the country notifying the families, we saw just how significant the need was for those family members for a safety net, for support and understanding. We decided to create an organization to address the really unique needs of our agency’s Special Operations community that weren’t being met. — Anonymous, Co-Founder of Third Option Foundation” At W.O.E., we are passionate about serving those who serve us and this is at the core of who we are as a business and community. We believe that doing good is good business and it would be hypocritical of us to not give back to our community. We will continue to be transparent about our support.   *Photos by James Rupley and GBRS. **W.O.E. has no affiliation with Third Option Foundation and this fundraiser is not officially endorsed by Third Option Foundation.   THIRD OPTION FOUNDATION IS A 501(C)(3) TAX-EXEMPT NATIONAL NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATION.

Special Agent Mel Harrison served in the US State Department for twenty-eight years, mostly as a Regional Security Officer in the Diplomatic Security Service (DSS). The role of a DSS Agent overseas is to advise the U.S. Ambassador on all security matters and to protect U.S. personnel, facilities, and information.  One common theme throughout Mel’s career was the presence of a situationally correct timepiece on his wrist. The relationship between Diplomatic Security's Regional Security Officer (RSO) and the CIA Station is vital to keeping Americans safe abroad. The RSO has the benefit of the US Marines and contract guard force under his command, but with vital intelligence assessments from the CIA Chief of Station, the RSO is able to assess the severity of the threat and can credibly request specific host government assets to protect the Embassy and its personnel congruent to the threat level.  Mel at Handy Side Gate, Northwest Frontier Province, Pakistan wearing Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date 1500, circa 1988 Watches of Diplomatic Security When I joined the old Office of Security in 1971, watches held no fascination for me. Serving in Saigon and Quito from 1973-76, I owned an ordinary and inexpensive Seiko, and later added my first automatic Seiko Diver’s watch with both day and date. My watch addiction began to grow when I returned for a DC assignment and purchased a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date 1500 and a Hamilton manual-wind military-style watch. The Rolex served me well in the office, and the Seiko and Hamilton were perfect while assigned to VIP protective details where punctuality was vital, and events might get rough and tumble. I was satisfied with this trio until assigned to the NATO Defense College in Rome, Italy in 1982. I noticed a Canadian Air Force pilot and fellow student who wore a wristwatch with luminescent hands and indices, but there was no brand name on the dial. The watch was issued to him by the Canadian government and it was the first time I became aware of military issued watches. My onward assignment was to London, where I discovered a large number of books on historical military watches, and antique markets filled with actual service watches. In my view, above all else, watches are tools. Whether one values accuracy, toughness, functionality, dependability, or just plain looks, the choices should match the needs of the job, the work environment, and do so without breaking the bank. Before arriving for a three year assignment in Islamabad, Pakistan in 1987, I added an Omega Speedmaster to my small collection. It was amazingly accurate and legible. But without a date function, I wore it somewhat less than I would have liked. I eventually sold it in London. Mel in Darra Adam Khel weapons bazar, Pakistan circa 1988. My Seiko divers watch on a rubber strap became my favorite in Pakistan. I was wearing it in February 1989 when a mob of 8,000 rioters attacked the American Center in Islamabad, where I was leading a small staff in its defense. The police tried their best to keep the rioters out of the Cultural Center, but they were overwhelmed and we were forced to do some hand-to-hand fighting to keep the mob from coming through the broken windows. US Embassy attack Islamabad, 1979 The toughness and dependability of a watch are important for me, whether protecting visiting congressional VIPs in the Northwest Frontier province in Pakistan, or running twice weekly drills with the Embassy Marines, which can get physical, depending on the type of drill. The job of a Regional Security Officer is to prepare the embassy to handle mob violence, terrorist attacks and bombings, among other duties. It’s fair to say these are “come as you are parties.” No RSO can call a timeout while they change their dress watch to a more rugged model. You go with what you are wearing. Years later from 1996-99, I was assigned for the second time to London, this time as the senior Regional Security Officer. From the US Navy PX in London, I bought a rugged and gorgeous Rolex Submariner, which I wore on and off for the next twenty years. However, during that time I took several vacation trips to India, Kenya, and other third world places. There was no way I would wear my valuable Submariner and risk being robbed. Because I had sold my original Seiko diver’s watch a few years before, I bought a new one (model SKX031K2) with the day and date, and wore it when I traveled. I still have it today.  I liked to explore the London antique markets looking at classic old watches. One day, with the dollar to British pound exchange rate reasonably strong in my favor, I purchased a handsome mid-1960s Omega Seamaster with date from the Grays Antique market. Because of the era in which it was manufactured, it was more a dress watch than the modern rugged model. I’ve had it serviced once and still frequently wear it. I mentioned earlier that watches should blend in with the needs of the job and the environment. During my London tour, I noticed that my contacts in Scotland Yard, whether they were senior officers or patrolmen, usually wore “non-macho man” watches. The same applied to officials in the Foreign Office and Home Office. Their culture meant most wore plain no-fuss watches on leather straps, and definitely avoided large, bulky watches. After-all, who needs a dive watch in central London? So, despite owning several military related watches, I adapted by often wearing either my original Rolex 1500 on a black leather strap or the old Omega Seamaster, also on a black leather strap. I felt it more important for my contacts to focus on what I was saying than to stare at my watch. With my watch addiction still not satiated, I obtained two British military watches. The first was the CWC diver’s watch used by the Royal Marines and the second was the CWC model G-10, used throughout the British military. Unfortunately, they were both battery powered, and while the original batteries lasted many years, that wasn’t good enough. As I said earlier, dependability is a vital quality for a tool watch. So, I eventually parted ways with those two models. U.S. Embassy London Retirement beckoned. I eagerly embraced the private sector. At the same time Casio was making solar-powered watches. I had avoided battery powered watches for decades (other than the CWC) because I didn’t want to be in a remote part of the world when my battery died. Now I could buy a Casio that never died. It had alarms, a back light, separate time zones, stopwatch and countdown functions, and oh, yes, it told the time. I bought the Casio G-Shock model 5600 and wore it in Sanaa, Yemen for four months when I was working as a contractor, and wore it again in Karachi, Pakistan, and Jidda, Saudi Arabia while serving on the State Department Accountability Review Boards. I also used it on business trips in the South American countries of Ecuador, Peru, Colombia, and Venezuela. Having multiple alarms on the watch was invaluable for meetings and getting out of bed on time. Having world time zones is helpful, but most people can calculate the difference between home time and where they are located abroad. I now carry this watch on vacation trips abroad. (Read: The History Of Casio G-Shocks And The US Military) Casio G-Shock 5600 A few years ago I sold my Rolex Submariner because after twenty years the luminosity on the hands and indices was fading. Although perhaps, it was my eyes that were getting old. I traded it in for a new Rolex Explorer II. It is a great looking watch with excellent legibility. But, the Explorer II was slightly bigger and heavier than the Submariner. Several years before, I had hurt my wrist and I found out that if I wore the Explorer full-time for a week or two my wrist got sore. Rather than leaving it in the drawer, I sold it for what I paid. Mel with his wife, Irene in Yemen wearing a Casio G-Shock, 2001. For those interested in reading Mel Harrison's five thrillers with RSO Alex Boyd as his protagonist, I suggest beginning with Mel's last book, Spies Among Us. It is set in London and shows the close relationship of the RSO to the CIA station. In Mel's books, Alex Boyd is wearing either a Seiko Diver day/date model or a Casio G-Shock. Read Next: Forget Bond, A Real CIA Spy Watch The author of this article, Mel Harrison, served in the US State Department for twenty-eight years, mostly as a Special Agent/Regional Security Officer in the Diplomatic Security Service (originally called the Office of Security). His overseas assignments were Saigon, Quito, Rome, London (twice), Islamabad, and Seoul. Temporary postings included Beirut, Caracas, Lima, and Bogota. Washington tours of duty included Regional Director for the Middle East and South Asia, and the Director of the Anti-terrorism Assistance Program. In retirement, he traveled on business to Sanaa, Baghdad, Cairo, and elsewhere. During his assignment to Islamabad, Pakistan, he received the State Department’s Award for Valor and the worldwide Security Officer of the Year award. For the last few years, Mel has written and published five fictional thrillers set in embassies around the world.

If you haven’t had a chance to read Part I of this Dispatch, please check it out here. If you don’t, you’ll be confused.  by Benjamin Lowry After the initial combat jump and assault into Tocumen Military Airfield and two weeks of searching and numerous assaults, raids, and skirmishes, Jose’s team ultimately just missed capturing infamous dictator Manuel Noriega, unknowingly coming within a few hundred yards of his position before being called off by the powers that be. Despite the disappointment, Jose confirmed his appreciation for a life lived at the pointy end of the spear.  A 1989 ad for a Timex Ironman similar to Jose's. An impressively capable digital family of watches, the Ironman is often overshadowed by the legendary G-Shock.  Decompressing from the disheartening near miss with Noriega, Gordon returned to the United States, eventually purchasing a Timex Ironman with an Indiglo backlight that offered better nighttime legibility than the fading luminescent material on his trusty old Seiko. After a relatively quiet Gulf War deployment in 1991, Jose continued to climb the enlisted leadership ladder of the developing Ranger Regiment. Through numerous near-involvements in global conflicts in Liberia, Somalia, Peru, and other hotspots around the globe, Gordon honed his craft in crisis action and mission planning, helping to create an incredibly complex but ultimately unutilized assault plan for Haiti involving no less than 48 aircraft and the 82nd Airborne.  A young Jose (right) operating in South America with an issued field watch on the wrist. Source: Jose Gordon While he remembers his Timex serving him well, Gordon missed his old 6309 and was quick to pick up a Seiko SKX007 when they were released in 1996. As we know, for a real watch nerd, the pull of analog mechanical timekeeping can be too much to resist. By the late 90s, Gordon earned his promotion to First Sergeant, the Army’s second-highest enlisted pay grade, while serving at the Ranger Regimental Training Detachment. Hand-selected to serve at West Point as the Senior Enlisted Advisor in 2001, Gordon neared the natural end of his 20-year career, spending his days sharing his decades of combat experience and lessons learned with cadets who would become the future of the Army Officer Corps. As the United States cracked open the 21st Century, Gordon and the rest of the world were unaware of the meteoric events awaiting New York City and the Pentagon on September 11th, 2001. Hijacked United Airlines Flight 175 preparing to collide with the South Tower of the World Trade Center on September 11th, 2001. Source: Associated Press On the morning of the 11th, Jose finished his PT and was getting dressed for work when his wife Patty called from the barn at West Point where she had her horses to tell him to turn on his TV because “. . . something big was happening.” Like so many Americans and particularly those within his profession, Jose remembers feeling two things most of all, an otherworldly anger that seemed to ache from deep within his bones paired with the intangible drive to help in whatever capacity he might offer. Around 1030 that morning, with smoke still billowing from the fallen Twin Towers of the World Trade Center, a general from the Pentagon called West Point asking after Gordon. A member of “The Unit” had referred the general to Gordon as someone relatively near Ground Zero geographically speaking who had an impressive reputation in the breaching community. “Breaching” is military parlance for forced entry in tactical scenarios, meaning Gordon was familiar with exothermic cutting and controlled explosive demolitions, skills that were to prove useful in ways the military had never imagined.  Jose in modern times instructs students in exothermic cutting, a key component of any breacher's arsenal, with a Sinn U1 on the wrist. Specializing in breaching throughout his career, Jose never imagined how his skills would be utilized at Ground Zero. Source: Jose Gordon A New York State Trooper was assigned to meet Gordon at West Point’s Thayer Gate and personally deliver him to Ground Zero. For whatever reason, Gordon reached for his newly acquired Suunto Vector, an early digital watch with altimeter, barometer, and compass functionality, that morning for PT as opposed to his beloved SKX. With Americans advised to shelter in place, the State Trooper raced along empty highways to New York at well over 100 miles per hour. Tracking the minutes on his Suunto’s digital display, time once again seemed to slow as Gordon anxiously awaited his turn to help his fellow Americans in the chaos of Lower Manhattan. While he’d seen the devastation on TV and heard more detailed reports through military channels, nothing could have prepared Jose for the magnitude of destruction he would face at Ground Zero. With 19 years in the Army, almost all of which with the Ranger Regiment, Gordon had seen his share of death and destruction at the frayed edges of modern civilization, but this was something else altogether. This was the United States.  Gordon worked at Ground Zero from September 11th to the 11th of October, serving as one of very few active duty military members involved in the early recovery efforts, alongside virtually every imaginable federal and local government agency. While Jose was clear when we spoke that he doesn’t wake up at night remembering the countless faces of the dead he’s seen in combat, he admitted he vividly remembers the faces of the dead unearthed at Ground Zero, ranging in expression from placid to horror-stricken. He also recalls the immense efforts taken to recover and identify the fallen and missing, with FBI Crime Scene Technicians occasionally stopping Gordon to point out the odd pink stain on a concrete slab, the product of human beings crushed between floors under the immense pressure of a falling skyscraper. A sour construction site smell permeated the area alongside an eerie silence so pervasive it could almost be heard above the din of dozens of generators. Amid the smoke, rubble, sweat, blood, and innumerable tears of the somber, post-apocalyptic scene, anger welled in Jose’s heart. Jose's Suunto Vector and hardhat, both of which were worn continuously while working at Ground Zero. Source: Jose Gordon. Returning from Ground Zero, Gordon was desperate to find a way into the developing conflict in the Middle East. Unfortunately for him, the Army had other ideas, insisting he serve his swansong tour in South Korea in an advisory leadership role. With firsthand experience at Ground Zero scraping the remains of fallen Americans from the rubble, there was no way Gordon was going to miss his chance to bring the fight to the enemy. After twenty-one years, Gordon chose to retire from the Army, the galvanizing force of his adult life, to look for another way. A few months working with legendary firearms manufacturer Heckler & Koch was a good start, with Gordon helping to develop both the HK416 and XM8, but he still yearned for his place in combat.  During his stint with Heckler & Koch, Jose helped to develop the HK416 and the polarizing XM8, seen here being tested by the US Army in the early 2000s. Source: US Army Eager to find the rare few with combat experience from before the brand new Global War On Terror, the Defense Intelligence Agency (DIA) recruited Gordon to work as a contractor. For two years, he worked with an Army research lab developing new tactics, techniques, and procedures while also actively deploying with an unnamed special mission unit conducting surveillance and intelligence gathering missions. Unsurprisingly, Jose is careful with what he shares when it comes to describing this part of his life. Eventually, Gordon was recruited to help form the Asymmetric Warfare Group (AWG), a blend of active duty military and civilians charged with embedding among both conventional and special operations units to identify gaps and develop solutions to increase combat effectiveness and what the Army calls “Soldier Survivability”. Like many watch nerds, Gordon was also a gear nerd, and the new role seemed tailor-made for Jose’s strengths.   Jose in his AWG days with a Suunto Observer on the wrist. Source: Jose Gordon Far from sitting on the sidelines taking notes, advisors like Gordon deployed and fought alongside military units at the darkest corners of the wars in Iraq, Afghanistan, and numerous other locations Gordon opts not to name. The core of Jose’s job was figuring out what these units needed firsthand, a job that meant accompanying the warfighters no matter the mission or how deep in the shit they managed to get. With most of their operations taking place at night, Jose picked up a Luminox Navy SEAL with tritium tubes for illumination shortly after leaving the Army. When the tritium began to fade, an AWG teammate directed him to Traser, another popular maker of military watches that leaned into tritium. Of all of the watches he wore in combat, Gordon counts his two Traser watches, a P6600 and a Commander as among the best, being incredibly durable and perfectly legible in the darker conditions where people like him thrive.  Jose training his nephew, currently serving in the US Army, in the ways of subterranean warfare with his trusty Sinn U1 on the wrist. By 2007, Gordon met Dave Hall, a retired US Navy SEAL who also happens to be a passionate watch enthusiast. If you haven’t read our Dispatch article about Dave’s life in the SEAL Teams. Dave turned Jose onto Sinn, a German brand known for utilitarian tool watches. Gordon purchased a U1 that same year and has worn it almost daily ever since. At this point, it’s important to note that Gordon was in his fifties and still found himself in combat situations while serving AWG on a consistent basis, ultimately seeing even more combat as a civilian contractor than he did on active duty until the AWG was disbanded in 2020.  Jose's Sinn U1 has seen some shit. Source: Jose Gordon Over the course of 40 years on the front lines, Gordon served with distinction both within the US Military as well as in civilian government contractor roles, amassing an impressive reputation within the special operations community. Despite his incredible background and experiences, Jose is humble almost to a fault, coming off ego-free and quicker to talk about how much he likes his Sinn U1 than he is to brag about his special operations combat experience. Jose’s unique experiences working with military gear and the government procurement process have led him to have an intimate understanding for sorting the necessary elements of a tool watch from the marketing fluff, and it’s no surprise to see his career influenced by brands like Seiko, Timex, Luminox, Traser, and Sinn. Like a number of individuals featured on the W.O.E. Dispatch, Jose is further evidence that a surprising number of the military elite continue to favor mechanical analog watches even in demanding combat scenarios, which should mean they’re solid enough for the rest of us not to worry.  These days, Jose stays busy sharing his lessons learned with the next generation of warfighters. Source: Jose Gordon Today, Gordon works part-time with the Irregular Warfare Technical Support Directorate as a Subject Matter Expert on subterranean warfare. He also shares his vast experience in weapons and tactics training working with Green Ops, a firearm and security training company, while also owning his own consultancy providing operational and tactical advice to the government. If you’d like to talk watches, guns, or gear with Jose, which I highly recommend, he can now be found on Instagram @rgrguns. He’s new to Instagram, and I’m counting on you guys to show him a warm welcome.  Read Next: Blackwater Breitling - The Story About The Author: Benjamin Lowry is a US Coast Guard veteran and commercial diver turned watch writer. These days, Ben splits his time between writing and video production in the watch industry and managing @SubmersibleWrist, a watch spotting account dedicated to military and commercial divers.

Saudi astronaut Ali Alqarni peered out the window of the International Space Station (ISS). The bright blue glow of the earth’s atmosphere roughly 250 miles below him filled his vista.  He slid his Rolex “Pepsi” GMT-Master II off his wrist and let it go, the watch drifting, weightless, right in front of the window. In a rare moment of serenity, Alqarni snapped a picture of the watch.  When I first came across the picture on @niccoloy’s Instagram page, I ignorantly assumed “Prince Ali '' was a wealthy Saudi, on a “mission” to the ISS.  As it turns out, Captain Alqarni was not a billionaire space tourist, but instead a professional aviator–a Captain in the Royal Saudi Air Force having logged over 2,000 hours of flight time and multiple combat deployments on the F-15.  While the Rolex GMT-Master II looked like any old Rolex, it was so much more– it was a symbol of Alqarni’s achievements, a commemorative watch purchased after his wedding and a complement to the Breitling B-1 he had worn since graduating flight school. It also pulled double duty as a true tool in the cockpit, the most fitting application of the watch considering its jet-age history.  We spoke with Alqarni, a follower of W.O.E., and found in him a passion for service to his country, and a sense of conviction that watches are meant as tools as well as extensions of our identity and symbols of our accomplishments. Like many space voyages before Axiom Mission 2, Alqarni’s trip was just as much cultural and political as it was scientific.  The Saudi Space Commission launched in 2017 as a part of Vision 2030, and Alqarni and Rayyanah Barnawi were the second and third, respectively, Saudis to reach space under the Saudi Space Commission. Barnawi, the first Saudi woman in space, is a stem cell researcher with a complementary skill set to Alqarni’s.  Barnawi wore a yellow “Mission to the Sun” Moonswatch on the ISS.   The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (KSA) hoped the mission would inspire the next generation of Saudi Arabian citizens to focus on science, technology, engineering, and mathematics (STEM).    Alqarni’s commemorative Omega Speedmaster, also worn on the trip. Watches of Spaceflight (W.O.S.)? When it comes to “Watches of Astronauts” (W.O.A.?), we immediately think of the Omega Speedmaster, a watch with strong ties to space exploration and that most notably played an important role during Apollo 13.  But a plethora of other brands have exited earth's atmosphere, including a previous Rolex GMT worn on the wrist Dr. Edgar Mitchell during the Apollo missions. The Rolex GMT-Master was a logical watch given the robust movement and GMT function, and legendary US Air Force officer Chuck Yeager’s watch of choice is still prized by aviators to this day.   As with Intelligence and Special Operations, watches have a strong historical tie to space exploration, initially due to the functional aspect of a watch, but at present, their cultural significance is equally as strong.  That said, Alqarni noted that most modern astronauts relied on Digital Tool Watches (DTWs), proving more functional than mechanical watches. Fighter Pilot Turned Astronaut: Though Alqarni was passionate about watches from an early age, his real exposure to military watch culture originated during his flight training in the United States in 2011.  His US Air Force officer mentor wore a Breitling F-15 Airwolf "Eagle Driver" with his call sign engraved on the caseback.  The mentor explained the significance of squadron commissioned watches and as a result, Alqarni was hooked.  From humble roots and fresh off a scholarship from King Faisal Air Academy, Alqarni wasn’t in a position to buy a brand new watch, so he settled on a pre-owned Breitling B-1 to commemorate his graduation. As a part of the Undergraduate Pilot Training (UPT), Alqarni visited the  Space Center Houston and met a former F-16 pilot-turned-astronaut.  This planted the seed that eventually led Alqarni to a career as an astronaut, but with no Saudi space program at the time, future space travel seemed unlikely.  Alqarni also received his call-sign: “Prince Ali”, based on the playful assumption from US Airmen that Alqarni must be related to the Royal family, the type of culturally insensitive, but well-intentioned humor common in our community.   Over the next decade, Alqarni wore the Breitling B-1 throughout his training and combat deployments.  For the same reasons my personal Breitling Aerospace was ideal for clandestine operations around the globe, Alqarni’s B-1 was a practical tool watch for an F-15 pilot.  The digital screens and various functions allowed him to time flights and track multiple time zones.  It was a tool, but also a symbol of his accomplishments, his passion for flying and the significance of time in the world of aeronautics.  During our conversation, he proudly explained his devotion to aviation and said the tool was a symbol of that love.  He was proud of every scratch on it. The Rolex: In 2018, in preparation for his wedding day Alqarni walked into an Authorized Dealer in Jeddah and put his name on the list for the Rolex GMT-Master II on a Jubilee bracelet.  It was a logical choice for a professional pilot, the Pepsi GMT has strong roots in aviation.  For confirmation that “Prince Ali” is not a real Prince, look no further than the year he had to wait for his Rolex. Like the rest of us commoners, he had to wait a year until he received “the call” two months after his wedding.  Regardless of the wait, the watch immediately became a favorite and adorned his wrist on training missions and deployments.  The Rolex catapulted him down the watch rabbit hole, and his collection only grew over the years. Space Trip: In 2020, the Saudi Space Commission sent out the request for volunteers to travel on Axiom Mission 2, originally scheduled for early 2023.  The six month selection process whittled 200 applicants down to Alqarni and Rayyanah Barnawi.  It was a commercial spaceflight led by veteran NASA astronaut Peggy Whitson.  As with previous spaceflights, the mission was a symbol of national pride and intended to signal that KSA was focused on the future.  The inclusion of a female member of the team was a clear message that KSA was focused on modernization.  Only in 2017 were women allowed to drive after a decree from King Salman. Alqrani’s personal effects and equipment were sent to the space station in advance, which included the Rolex GMT.  The GMT is noticeably absent from his wrist in pictures of Alqarani training for the mission.  Each spaceflight member was provided a custom Omega Speedmaster Professional.  The astronauts’ names and the team’s patch–a dragon capsule flanked with the Saudi and US flags–were engraved on the caseback. A patch honoring the mission’s focus on inspiration, education and teaching, symbolized by the five S.T.E.A.M symbols. Science represented by a DNA strand, Technology represented by a set of connected circles, Engineering represented by a cog, Arts represented by a brush, and Math represented by the Pi symbol.  The Mission: When Alqarni arrived at the ISS, he was provided access to his personal effects and equipment needed for scientific experiments in the zero gravity environment.  Alqarni nervously unwrapped the watch that he had not seen for six months, reflecting, “I was worried that the watch was not going to work.”  It was an emotional and symbolic moment: Both the watch and Alqarni had made it against all odds. And both were right on time. For Alqarni, the watch ticking embodied all that it took to get to the ISS and the sacrifice and triumph of the Saudi people. Quickly realizing that the jubilee bracelet was loose, a result of weight loss during training, Alqarni wound the watch and set the primary time to Zulu Time (Coordinated Universal Time), the time used by the ISS, and the secondary hand to Saudi Arabia (Zulu + 3).  Throughout the journey, Alqarni manipulated the bezel to quickly check the time for Tokyo, etc. as he traveled through space.    Zero Gravity: Alqarni explained that the self-winding automatic watch worked well in zero gravity conditions, the wrist movement and inertia was enough to move the pendulum.  Alqarni did not have to wind the watch again. After 10 days in space, the team splashed down in the Gulf of Mexico on 30 May.  As Barnawi, the first Saudi woman to space, would say, “Every story comes to an end and this is only the beginning of a new era for our country and our region.”   To commemorate the trip to space and build on the history of the Rolex GMT, Alqarni planned to engrave the caseback with the dates of the voyage as well as a note summarizing his accomplishments to date.  Alqarni currently has one daughter and has aspirations to grow his family. He hopes to give the watch to his children in the future. Who knows, they might even take it back to space one day.  Read Next: The Lasting Legacy Of The CIA’s Lockheed A-12 And The Watch That Served It

Two British Tier One Special Operations units, the Special Air Service (SAS) and Special Boat Service (SBS), have a long and storied history of using high-end tool watches.  While this relationship was initially established through Ministry of Defence (MoD)-issued timepieces, including the highly-collectable Rolex Military Submariners (MilSub) references, in more recent decades the relationship has evolved, and the SAS and SBS units have commissioned watches to honor their distinct heritage. In order to document the lesser-known SBS-commissioned blue-dialed Omega Seamaster GMT 300 Co-Axial, we spoke with Dean Stott, a former member of the SBS about his 2007 SBS Omega.  After 16 years of service, Stott still boldly embodies the “use your tools” ethos.  Stott wore his SBS Seamaster on combat deployments while operational and still wears it today in the next chapter of his life. Stott during a 2009 Supervisor Forward Air Controller (SUPFAC) Course, Omega on his wrist. Unit Watches: Even as a patriotic, red-blooded American, I have to acknowledge that much of what we’ve come to know as “Watches of Espionage” likely originated across the pond in the United Kingdom. James Bond is an obvious example, but military “unit watches” appear to have been prevalent on the eastern side of the Atlantic before widespread popularity in the United States. Unit watches now play a significant role in the watch culture of American and international servicemen, and point to the heart of watch culture in the National Security community.  A unit watch is a customized version of a standard production reference that usually includes the unit’s insignia on the dial and/or engraved on the caseback. Many of these are produced at the manufacturer and are not modified on the aftermarket.  Breitling, IWC, Omega, Tudor and Rolex have long histories of military customization programs, but newcomer and UK-based Bremont Watch Company has made significant headway in capturing the market and providing a unique watch to military and intelligence units. These watches are tools, but also serve as constant reminders of one's service to their country. Given the rapid proliferation of digital timepieces, many operators choose to wear a G-Shock, Suunto or other smart watch while operational, and reserve the unit watch for the garrison.  We have written in the past about much of the aversion of part of the watch community to the military, and there is much truth to this when it comes to watch journalism and the watch elitism in the fashion capitals like New York and Los Angeles. But the watch companies themselves, the ones actually producing the timepieces in Switzerland or elsewhere, have historically been forward-leaning in supporting those who answer the call to serve. In true Swiss fashion, certain watch manufacturers value discretion on a level that rivals an intelligence service, and many of these models are not openly advertised and only known to the broader public when they leak out on the internet or watch forums years later.  Gangster move for sure. SBS OMEGA Seamaster: W.O.E. takes a strong position on the idea that the fictitious James Bond should wear Rolex, but the connections between Omega and the British Ministry of Defence and specifically the British Royal Navy and maritime SOF units are undeniable.  One recent and striking example of this relationship is the British Special Boats Service’s 2007 commission of blue-dialed Omega Seamaster GMT 300 Co-Axial (ref. 2535.80.00). Omega produced 500 numbered pieces exclusively for the SBS operators. According to Stott, the SBS was adamant that the watches were for the sole use of actively-serving badged SBS operators and not offered to former members or support personnel.  This would also ensure that all operators, including those deployed, were able to secure a timepiece. When worn, the watch is indistinguishable from other Seamaster GMTs from the time period, but off the wrist, the SBS insignia is visible on the sapphire caseback with the SBS motto, “'By Strength and Guile."  The watches are serialized 1-500, as visible by Stott’s #263/500.  Rated for 800 meters, the watch was designed for hard use and Stott put it to the test regularly.  He said that while many of the operators kept the watch in the box to pass on to future generations or wore it only while back in the UK on safe soil, Stott opted to use it as it was intended: as a tool.  He wore the Omega on countless operations and training missions, including operational jumps in Afghanistan at 15,000ft and combat dives. According to Stott, the members of the SBS were aware of the 2003 SAS commission of a custom Breitling Avenger Seawolf and looked to emulate this model.  Due to the aquatic nature of the Seamaster, the unit approached Omega, who readily agreed to provide the unit with a suitable watch.  Former SAS Melvyn Downes commissioned Avenger Seawolf with the SAS insignia at the 9 o’clock on the dial, along with a D. Squadron coin. (Photo Credit: Downes, previous W.O.E. submission) The Omega Seamaster was a logical choice for the British Maritime SOF unit.  In fact, James Bond costume designer Lindy Hemming reportedly chose the Seamaster for the fictitious character due to Omega’s real connections to the British Royal Navy, including issued Seamasters in the late 1960s.  While we’re skeptical of anything coming out of Hollywood and it’s tempting to discount this rationale as a justification for a marketing-driven switch from Rolex to Omega, the logic is relatively sound. As with most people we profile at W.O.E., Stott has had an impressive career both in and outside of the military.  Stott was one of the first British army members to join SBS and conducted direct action and counter terrorism operations globally. After 16 years of military service, Stott left the military in 2016 after a horrific parachute accident. Like many former members of elite military units, Stott continued his “unrelenting pursuit of excellence.”  He spent a number of years working in Private Security operating in nonpermissive environments, and the watch came with him on many of these adventures. Notably, Stott holds two world records for biking the Pan American Highway, a 14,000 mile route from Argentina to Alaska in May 2018, raising more than $1.4 million US dollars for mental health awareness charities in the process. Stott and friend Prince Harry, 2007. Interestingly, Prince Harry is known to wear a Rolex Explorer II unit watch. Stott’s recently released book, Relentless, shares his extraordinary, inspirational life story to date: from his courageous military service and record-setting cycling adventures to his rescue missions and friendship with Prince Harry.  Stott’s watches continue to play a big role in his life. He’s now a Global Ambassador for Vertex Watch Company.   READ NEXT: SEAL Team Six And A U.S. Navy-Issued Seiko Turtle

79 years ago the most important Allied coordinated effort of WWII took place. These watches kept soldiers on time.  On Tuesday June 6th, 1944 the largest seaborne invasion in history occurred. Nearly 160,000 allied troops managed to change the course of WWII by storming the beaches of Normandy and setting off the liberation of France from the Nazis, and later, a victory. The invasion began at 6:30am, when soldiers started storming five beaches–Omaha, Utah, Gold, Sword, Juno. Approximately 11,000 aircraft and 7,000 watercraft supported the invasion. Shortly before the landing, under the cover of darkness, Paratroopers, including commandos from the Office of Strategic Services (OSS), were inserted into strategic spots inland in order to weaken the German defense network and provide a strategic advantage to the soldiers arriving by amphibious craft.  Operation Overlord, June 6, 1944 Today marks the 79th anniversary of the day this incredible effort took place. Roughly 73,000 Allied soldiers were lost over the course of the invasion.  “D-Day” as its known, typically refers to these Normandy landings, but in the larger military context, it refers to the exact time a combat action takes place. D-Day and H-Hour refer to the day an hour a coordinated effort is initiated. “D-Day”, in the case of the Normandy Invasion, was actually set for June 5th, but General Eisenhower made the choice to delay the attack due to rough seas and inclement weather.  General Eisenhower reportedly wore a Heuer Chronograph, as identified by @niccoloy (Government Archives)  In war, time matters. A massive concerted effort between Allied nations meant every single soldier had to be on time and operating in unison. The tool that helped orchestrate an invasion that shifted the outcome of the war? The humble wristwatch. In the 1940s, watches were hardly considered as the luxury accessories they are today. Soldiers wore watches that were issued to them as a part of the set of tools needed to do a very important job.  Photo Credit: Vertex Watches  History buffs, WWII enthusiasts, and even re-enactors pay incredible attention to details surrounding WWII, but somehow one of the most important pieces of kit–the watch–is often overlooked. At W.O.E. we care about nothing but details, so today, on the anniversary of D-Day, we’ll take a look at some of the watches that were on the wrists of soldiers, sailors, and airmen that were involved in the invasion.  The A-11 (produced by Bulova, Elgin, Waltham and others) Personal collection of former CIA Officer and W.O.E. contributor, J.R. Seeger. Commonly referred to as “the watch that won the war”, the A-11 was the most ubiquitous service watch during WWII. It’s a specification, rather than an actual watch, and that meant that various companies could produce watches to this spec and in turn, the government would purchase these watches and distribute them to service personnel. For its time, the specification set was exacting, the watch needed a black dial with white numerical indices, a manual-winding, hacking movement with center seconds, 10 minute markers, an hour and minute hand. The case came in at a compact 32 millimeters. The watches saw service with the Brits as well as the Americans.  The Army Ordnance Watch Army Time Piece (ATP) watch of the UK forces and the US Army Ordnance (ORD) on original OSS manual (Seeger’s personal collection) While the A-11 was rated for aviation operations (and specific maritime operations), the “ORD” watches were general-purpose watches issued to US soldiers en masse. The specification outlined in the TM 9-1575 War Department Technical Manual for Wrist Watches, Pocket Watches, Stop Watches allows for some variation in design, so Waltham, Hamilton, Bulova and Elgin all put their own twist on these watches meant to be mass produced for soldiers. These watches are distinguished by their white dials and “Ord Dept” engravings on the caseback.  The “Dirty Dozen” MoD Watches The Dirty Dozen - all twelve W.W.W. watches (Credit: A Collected Man) Most popular among collectors is a series of 12 watches produced by the likes of Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor, and Vertex. On all of these British-issued watches you’ll find W.W.W. (Watch, Wrist, Waterproof) and a broadarrow insignia engraved in the back. It’s unknown how many of each were produced because it’s believed that only WC, JLC, and Omega recorded their production at 6,000, 10,000,  and 25,000 respectively. The Dirty Dozen were general service watches, and that meant they saw service with various service roles across all functions of the military. While these pieces were not delivered until after D-Day at the conclusion of the war, they are a product of this conflict. IWC Dirty Dozen piece with original box (Credit: A Collected Man) We tend to romanticize the equipment used by service members carrying out brave efforts that changed the course of world history. Watches are certainly among the kind of things we tend to prescribe a certain importance to–and that’s not to be ignored, timekeeping is absolutely vital especially when it comes to a massive coordination such as Operation Overlord. But watches only supported the mission as a piece of gear with an assigned function. They were, and always will be, tools to get the job done. Today we honor and remember the valiant efforts of Allied service members 79 years ago to this day, and the actions taken by them that resulted in a free world that flourishes.    If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: CIA’s JAWBREAKER Team And A Rolex Submariner  

Counterintelligence Risks of Smart Watches “Apple watches are for nerds.”   Though we don’t actually think this, it’s easy to understand how one could come to that conclusion. The Apple Watch of today could be seen as the “calculator watch” of the ‘90s–in other words, a product with a nerdy association. One thing we can say is that smart watches are NOT/NOT for intelligence officers.  Smart watches, like the Apple Watch, offer significant lifestyle benefits: fitness tracking, optimizing communication, and sleep monitoring.  However, for CIA Human Intelligence (HUMINT) collectors who rely on anonymity to securely conduct clandestine operations, the networked device is a counterintelligence (CI) vulnerability and potential opportunity for exploitation. For every benefit the Apple Watch provides, it also comes with a threat.  In general, we are not against smart watches at W.O.E. In my post-CIA life I have worked in emerging technology and the benefits of “wearables”, including smart watches, are limitless.  Even though their high-tech functionality runs counter to much of the analog-inspired stories that we put out at W.O.E., smart watches are great tools. They provide immediate and actionable data to increase one’s health, productivity, and situational awareness.  To effectively provide this resource, the watch constantly collects data on one’s location, surroundings, vitals, and movement.  That data is held on the device or sent to a cloud for storage and analysis.  Depending on the applications on the device, much of this data is packaged and sold to third parties for targeted advertisement. Strava Fitness App: In late 2017, open-source fitness tracker data from Strava, an application that allows users to track their fitness activity, was used to reveal the location of sensitive military locations in countries including Syria, Niger, and Afghanistan.  More than 3 trillion data points were available for analysis, posing a potential vulnerability for operational security (OPSEC), revealing sensitive government locations of importance to the US Government’s operations in the area. It’s important to note that this data was relatively rudimentary, simple GPS data points with map overlay– a fraction of the data collected by smart watches today. Even so, researchers from Bellingcat were able to manipulate and combine the information with other datasets to reportedly reveal the identities of British Special Air Service (SAS) personnel, proving that “anonymized” data often isn't. Strava heat map showing sensitive government location. (Strava Data) Clandestine Operations: A CIA Case Officer’s core competency is to recruit and securely handle “agents” for strategic intelligence collection.  This activity ideally occurs in face-to-face clandestine meetings with the foreign government penetration or non-state actors in back alleys, parks, seedy hotel rooms and safe houses.  To securely collect human intelligence, the Case Officer must be “black” –free from hostile surveillance–to protect the identity of the asset.  Traditionally, this requires a multi-hour Surveillance Detection Route (SDR) to determine one’s status.  The rise of networked devices and “smart cities” with facial recognition and ubiquitous surveillance make the Case Officer's job more difficult than ever before. In these so-called “smart cities” movements are easier to track.  Ubiquitous Technical Surveillance (UTS): The Internet of Things has permeated our everyday lives.  Everything from your car to your toaster and baby monitor constantly collect data in order to provide a better user experience through the “smart” network.   Graphic Credit: Ridgeline International A smart watch is just one vector in what has become known as “Ubiquitous Technical Surveillance (UTS).”  According to defense contractor Ridgeline International:  UTS refers to the collection and long-term storage of data in order to analyze and connect individuals with other people, activities, and organizations. Because our data is stored indefinitely, these records are always accessible. In the case of Ubiquitous Technical Surveillance, this data can be used to forensically reconstruct events, no matter how long ago they occurred. Most of this data is collected for commercial purposes, either to make the product more effective for the customer or to be packaged and sold for advertising.  “Data is the new oil”. Collecting, storing, and processing data has never been easier or cheaper, and this ubiquitous network of technical surveillance can be exploited and analyzed in real time or after the fact, potentially revealing the time, location, and identities of those involved in a clandestine act.   CI Risk: Counterintelligence, or “CI”, is any potential risk to an intelligence officer, asset or operational activity.  For Case Officers, this boils down to revealing the identity, location or tradecraft of an officer, Agent or clandestine act.  The rise of technology has increased the potential points of collection (threat vectors) and exploitation, making secure agent handling more difficult.  Not long ago, a hostile intelligence service would have to surreptitiously implant a listening device in an office or a beacon on a vehicle.  Today, vehicles are integrated into a smart network with constant telemetric collection and everything from TVs to toasters and your watch now has a microphone that can be remotely activated known as “hot mic.” When Washington Post columnist Jamal Khashoggi was killed by the Saudi government in a Saudi consulate in Istanbul in October 2018, initial reporting suggested his murder was recorded by his Apple Watch, something technically possible given the microphone and record feature.  While it turned out this was disinformation (REDACTED), this is something that is technically possible and may potentially become more common in the future. Jamal Khashoggi entering the Saudi consulate in Istanbul 2 October 2018 The Future is Now: Not long ago, an intelligence officer could simply leave his or her phone (or smart watch) at home while operational; however, today even this lack of activity is an indicator.  How often is your phone or smart watch sitting idle while you are at home for hours at a time? The lack of movement is just as telling as movement itself.  When it comes to wearables, if an intelligence officer wore a smart watch 24-7, but removed it when operational, this could clearly be analyzed as an anomaly to identify suspected periods of operational activity.  Should a pattern emerge, a hostile intelligence service may allocate physical (or technical) resources to further monitor that individual during a given time, hoping to exploit a vulnerability. Pattern of Life Analysis: Understanding a target’s “Pattern of Life” (POL) is crucial for intelligence collection and a smart watch is the ideal tool to collect POL data.  A Russian intelligence officer’s regular visits to a casino, brothel or liquor store may indicate vulnerabilities for exploitation.  Knowledge of regular visits to a gym or park for exercise presents an opportunity for a Case Officer to facilitate a seemingly innocuous encounter.  For non-state actors and terrorists, patterns provide an opportunity for a capture-or-kill operation. Smart watches and other wearables present an opportunity for unprecedented “Pattern of Life” collection in real time but at an even deeper level of analysis including heart rate, sleep patterns and other physiological responses.  Further, if the device is compromised, the microphone and camera can be activated, providing insight into that individual's home life, relationships and mental state. Traditionally, this type of compromised technical system was limited to capabilities by advanced state actors, specifically hackers known as “APTs” (Advanced Persistent Threats).  However, with the growing private sector intelligence industry, these capabilities are now available to companies, governments and non-state actors.  Notably, Israeli firms including NSO Group have developed and commercialized these capabilities.  NSO Group’s Pegasus spyware can be covertly installed on an individual’s Apple IOS software, exploiting previously unknown “zero-day” vulnerabilities in the software. The US government openly acknowledges the risk of smart watches and prohibits the wearing of any Bluetooth, wireless or WIFI-enabled device in a Sensitive Compartmented Information Facility (SCIF), a secure government facility where classified government information can be discussed and transmitted.  For intelligence officers who spend much of their time working in a SCIF, they are not permitted to bring their cellphones or any device that receives or transmits a signal, including smart watches. Counterintelligence Risk = Collection Opportunity: While smart watches present a vulnerability for CIA Case Officers, they present an equally interesting opportunity for the US Intelligence Community’s computer exploitation “hackers” to target foreign entities for intelligence collection.  Exploiting a foreign intelligence officer’s smart watch could facilitate his or her pattern of life, allowing a CIA Case Officer to “bump” the foreign official to strike up a conversation in hopes of recruiting that individual as a penetration.  Remotely activating the camera and microphone on a foreign President’s staffer could result in collection of Foreign Intelligence (FI) or valuable assessment data on that individual. Despite the CI risks, foreign politicians including Former Russian Prime Minister Dmitry Medvedev have been photographed wearing Apple and other smart watches.  U.S. elected officials are not immune from this type of analysis by foreign intelligence organizations.  Interestingly, current President Joe Biden was the first U.S. President to wear an Apple Watch in the Oval Office while President Obama reportedly chose the Fitbit for security reasons–it was a less “smart”, smart watch.  For Biden, a certified watch nerd with a collection of Seiko, Rolex and Omega, this was no accident.  It is possible that this was a signal from Biden that he is “hip” and focused on modernity.  For a President criticized for his age, it would be a logical message to send.  US Senators and Congressmen have been observed wearing smart watches in sensitive meetings where cell phones were prohibited.  We can assume this is something that foreign intelligence services are watching closely. President Joe Biden wearing Apple Watch in Oval Office (White House) The Future: In 2022, Apple sold approximately 50 million smart watches, and we can expect this number to increase as the adoption of the Apple Watch becomes more widespread.  That said, Case Officers will likely continue to rely on simple quartz and automatic timepieces to conduct an operational act (agent meeting) at the exact time and place without leaving behind a digital footprint that can be pieced together by a competent hostile intelligence service. Sometimes it’s best to do things the old-fashioned way. This newsletter has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information. READ NEXT: Casio F-91W, The Preferred Watch Of Terrorists   Submissions from the W.O.E. community:  Jason Heaton testing the limits of the Apple Watch Ultra @chando_bear

One of the coolest parts of the W.O.E. platform is exposing people to the world of watches in an unpretentious and engaging manner.  Getting into watches can be intimidating and it is difficult to know where to start. Regardless of one's socioeconomic status and access to disposable income, we recommend starting with a watch under-$1,000.  Just because you can afford a Rolex, doesn't mean you should start there.   In the “Ask W.O.E. Anything” Dispatch, I put forward my belief that a Seiko is a good place to start, and maybe end with watch collecting.  That said, there are some great watches under $1,000 and there is no right answer to this question.  In order to capture a broad collection of suitable watches, we asked a handful of our friends from both the traditional watch and NatSec communities to provide their choice for the “Best Watch Under $1,000.” This is an incredibly diverse list of individuals from former Special Operations warriors, Intelligence Officers, and divers, to some of the leading experts in the watch community.  The one thing they all have in common is a shared appreciation for watches.  While all of them have objectively more “expensive” watches in their collection, they have a genuine appreciation for these more affordable timepieces. CWC Royal Navy Jason Heaton, author, freelance writer, and podcast host, The Grey NA TO and author of Depth Charge. I’ve long contended that the CWC Royal Navy dive watch is the watch a “real” James Bond would wear, at least the 21st-century iteration of MI6’s famous “blunt instrument” spy. Issued since the 1980s to British Navy divers and Special Forces operators, it is a tough, classic, unassuming watch that can truly go anywhere and manages the balance between looking good and not drawing attention to itself. The quartz version (Approx. $930), with its 300 meters of water resistance, long-life battery, and fixed strap bars means its owner can go forth in the world on adventures, clandestine or otherwise, without having to worry about his watch. And that’s the highest of compliments, in my mind.  Seiko Prospex SNJ025 aka The 'Arnie' Chris Craighead, former British Special Air Service (SAS), @christian_craighead The Seiko Prospex ($525) has a unique and rich history. Not only was it worn by Arnold Schwarzenegger in movies such as Commando, Predator, and Raw Deal, it was also one of the first watches issued to an East Coast-based Naval Special Warfare (NSW) unit. The watch is extremely tough and practical. The dual, analog and digital face makes it a versatile watch for whatever purpose you choose to wear it. Tornek-Rayville TR-660  Brock Stevens, Active Duty US Navy Diver, EDC enthusiast, and photographer behind @deepsea_edc.  The Tornek-Rayville TR-660 ($950) is a no-frills, straight-to-the-point tool watch. As an active duty US Navy Diver who believes in wearing watches for their intended purposes, I love that about it. With a robust movement, 200 meters of water resistance, a legible dial, and lightning bright lume, I count on this watch to get the job done during my working dives. I have beat the living hell out of this thing, banging it around on just about every type of warship the US Navy has to offer, and it just keeps on ticking. Any watch can sit in the collection and look pretty, but if you’re after ultimate function and genuine military heritage at a reasonable price point, look no further. Rowing Blazers X Seiko 5 Sports Watch (Limited Edition 2023)  Eric Wind, leading expert in vintage watches. Eric founded and owns Wind Vintage  The Seiko 5 Sports line offers some of the best accessible mechanical watches on the market. Having had a bunch over the last few years, they are solid, reliable, and attractive - a winning combination. I really like the model we have used for our latest Rowing Blazers x Seiko watches ($495) as it is 40mm, but wears slightly smaller and looks great on men or women. They are hard to argue with for under $500 and are great for travel, the pool, and whatever else you might need. Sangin Instruments “Neptune” James Rupley, Co-founder of small arms reference publishing industry leaders, Vickers Guide and Headstamp Publishing. Regular photographic contributor to W.O.E. I subscribe fully to the “buy cheap, buy twice” maxim, so buying an inexpensive watch can actually be a riskier proposition than buying a much more expensive watch. Is there a $200 watch that you can be happy with forever? It’s a fascinating question, and you can easily blow a day on YouTube watching others try to answer it.  As someone who spends so much time photographing collectibles, aesthetic merit is always going to be a dominant factor in just about anything I focus on. I think the Sangin Instruments “Neptune” ($859) is an excellent example of a watch that skillfully blends functional elements with an attractive design. I love that the Neptune comes with both a metal bracelet and a rubber strap – options that offer me plenty of variety for use in any situation. Timex Marlin Automatic Marty Skovlund, Jr., Former Army guy, avid coffee drinker, aspiring sketchy dude, current Editor-in-chief of Task & Purpose I love a classy watch that is comfortable on the wrist but doesn’t draw attention or accusations of elitism. Timex is the opposite of elite in the watch world, and they make a helluva wrist piece that you aren’t afraid of wearing as a daily driver. And frankly, I wore a digital Timex Ironman on many deployments in a past life, so a non-digital, automatic Timex with a day and date complication feels like a natural evolution. I love mine, and it’s one of the most affordable automatics on the market. The Timex Marlin Automatic ($269) rocks a 40mm stainless steel case, a beautiful deep navy blue dial, and a classic domed acrylic crystal — it looks like a compromise between an ultra-rugged sport watch and a black tie dress watch. This isn’t a go-everywhere, do-anything piece with only 50m of water resistance and a crystal that’s easy to scuff; but it’s perfect for long days at the office or hitting all of Hemingway’s old drinking spots in Madrid in a single day. Pro tip: My Timex Marlin came with a leather strap too orange for my taste. I swapped it out for a W.O.E. Jedburgh Leather strap, and that dark brown leather complements the navy dial perfectly. Seiko Turtle Dave Hall, SOCS (SEAL), USN, Ret. Retired US Navy SEAL. Watch and firearms enthusiast. @davehall1911 The Seiko “Turtle” ($300-600), a nickname for the 6309-7040, could easily be described as the “AK-47 of the watch world”. It’s simple, rugged, affordable, reliable, and has stood the test of time with little necessary improvement. The watch is at home underwater, in freefall, or running an obstacle course. It’s accurate enough to keep track of your total time of dive, calculate M700 time fuse burns, or keep track of your dune run times. You don’t have to take it off to enter a SCIF (Sensitive Compartmented Information Facility) and it is as equally at home on a direct-action mission as it is at the hotel bar in Zangaro (“Dogs of War” cameo reference). The modern Turtle, known as the Prospex SRPE93, has all the same clean lines and durability from the original 6309 and keeps better time than ever. Tornek-Rayville Paradive  J.R. Seeger, retired Central Intelligence Agency (CIA) officer and author of seven MIKE4 espionage novels and three Steampunk Raj novels set in WWI.  T-R is a US-based watch company that builds field and dive watches that have the DNA of 1960s and 1970s MIL-SPEC watches. The Paradive ( approx. $900) is a modern take on the vintage Benrus Type 1. It is a bead-blasted stainless steel, purpose-built automatic watch with excellent luminous markings and comes with either a standard dive bezel or a 12-hour bezel providing a means to track two time zones. The watch has a depth rating of 200m. It is the most robust dive watch I own. T-R is a small company and there is a wait time while they make your watch. It is well worth the wait. Marathon Navigator Steel SSNAV-D James Stacey, Lead Editor with Hodinkee.com and co-host of The Grey NA TO podcast. If we’re talking about a great tool watch under a grand and you really want to use it, you can’t do much better than the new steel version of Marathon’s long-standing (and long-serving) Navigator ($800). Trading the common and gov’t issue-ready composite case for one in steel, this newly announced Marathon is still 41mm wide, 11mm thick, and sports a field-ready 12-hour bezel. Add to that a high-accuracy quartz movement, 100 meters of water resistance, and tritium tube illumination and you've got a worker. It’s a modernized take on a classic design that traces its lineage across some of the toughest locales that our world has (and had) to offer and it remains a watch that was primarily designed to be offered in contract to governments and special outfits all over the globe and the new steel version even has its own Nato Stock Number. If you want a go anywhere, do anything watch that remains subtle but tough enough for any sort of work, the Navigator is a natural in steel - just add your fav color NA TO. I recommend grey. Sangin Dark Professional Asha Wagner, HazMat Team Manager for a National Disaster Response Task Force and watch and gear enthusiast. @wildlander6 My pick for a sub $1,000 watch is my Sangin Dark Professional ($658). This has been my go-to work, play and travel watch for the past few years. The reasons why I keep opting for this watch are it’s durable, versatile, and comfortable. I am a full-time Fire Captain and a HazMat Team Manager for a National Disaster Response Task Force and am also pretty active with a bunch of outdoorsy hobbies in my off time. I am rough on equipment and an impact-prone individual. I need a watch that can keep up with me and that I don’t have to worry about whether I’m scuba diving or breaching and forcing entry into a building. The Dark Pro has taken everything I’ve thrown at it and come up smiling. As far as versatility it is a 300-meter dive watch with a 24-hour GMT hand, drilled lug holes for easy strap changes, a fully indexed, unidirectional count-up bezel with bright long lasting lume, and a color-matched date wheel at 4:30. The date wheel is there when I need it, and all but disappears when I don’t. The crazy bright lume is great in inclement situations, plus lume just downright makes me happy. The case comes in at 43.5 mm, but with a 20mm lug width 12 mm thickness, and 42 mm bezel, it wears sleeker than its specs might initially suggest. It’s a watch that doesn’t draw a lot of undue attention depending on where I’m traveling, but at the same time makes me smile every time I look at it.  Mine is a co-branded watch with Triple Aught Design and comes in at $795.   Halios Seaforth IV Justin Couture, “The Wristorian” Freelance blogger fascinated by the historical context surrounding vintage tool watches. @the_wristorian Being a vintage guy at heart, I am ever on the lookout for a watch that combines old-school design language with modern capability. Enter the Halios Seaforth IV ($775), the newest iteration of what could now be called a horological cult classic. With Goldilocks dimensions and a clear focus on legibility, the Seaforth IV effortlessly exudes the sort of skindiver vibes that will make you want to inexplicably take up spearfishing. Factor in the brilliant Bahama Yellow dial and the titanium case option and you’ve got the apex predator of modern microbrand divers. Pro-tip for the WOE crowd, for added utilitarianism the Seaforth can be made into a destro configuration by request. Seiko SKX Nick Ferrell, Founder DC Vintage Watches Vintage Seiko is rich in history, and none more than the venerable Seiko SKX, worn on the wrist of many military and intelligence officers I've worked with - both previously employed with the government, and now as customers - the world over.  The SKX line has long been a "gateway drug" for watch collectors just starting down the slippery slope towards obsession, as it was for me.  One of my first Seiko's, I wore the 1999 Seiko SKX007 (on the right) throughout a two-year tour in the White House Situation Room, and it served me well.  And this is a two-for-one - a savvy hunter can find both the SKX and the steel-grey dial 1960s Seiko 7625-8233 dress watch, absurdly large for the era, in good nick for under $1k.  A fantastic two-watch collection, perhaps? Scurfa Diver One D1-500 Benjamin Lowry, Writer, US Coast Guard veteran, former commercial diver, and curator of @submersiblewrist.  With my background in commercial diving, I was always going to be a fan of Scurfa Watches, a brand owned and operated by Paul Scurfield, a North Sea commercial saturation diver. Beyond our occupational connection, the watches themselves represent class-leading value for the busy diving tool watch category, pairing impressive specifications with the legitimacy that comes with having been developed and tested in the owner’s salty workplace. The Diver One D1-500 is the brand’s centerpiece, offering 500 meters of water resistance, excellent lume, an automatic helium escape valve (which, in this very rare case, makes sense), a domed sapphire crystal, and a Swiss quartz caliber from Ronda, all housed within a surprisingly restrained 40mm wide by 47.7mm long case.  While I’m nowhere near as cool as Paul, I have worn the Diver One extensively in recreational and commercial diving scenarios, including at least one near-death experience. Priced around $200, which is insane, the Scurfa Diver One is a great way to live the #useyourtools ethos we subscribe to around here without breaking the bank.  Tornek-Rayville TR-660 Owner of Soturi, - Marine veteran-owned handmade watch straps inspired by military heritage.   When I came across the Tornek-Rayville TR-660 ($950) it instantly hooked me. As an avid enthusiast of military watches, the T-R’s slab-sided case, matte finish, and lighter weight are everything you want in a field/dive watch. Simple, yet significant. Add-on T-R’s intriguing history with U.S. Special Operations (the TR-900 model) and you have yourself a winning combination that’s hard to compete with. Bonus - its integrated lug/pin holes make for easy swapping of your favorite watch straps.  “Arabic Seiko'' W.O.E., former CIA Case Officer turned watch influencer The 42mm “Arabic Seiko'' ref SNKP21J1  (aka the Seik-W.O.E. aka the W.O.E. hype watch) is popular in the W.O.E. community.  In part this is because it is a cool and unique piece at an affordable price point and received consistent coverage on W.O.E., but just as importantly because of the meaning it has for our community.  Many of us have spent a considerable amount of time in the Middle East over the past 20+ years.  I have a strong affinity for the rich culture and language of the Arab world and this piece is a constant reminder of that connection and that period in my life.  A lot of veterans and NatSec identify with this connection. ($130-$200) If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.   READ NEXT: W.O.E. Holiday Gift Guide

We asked former senior Case Officer, J.R. Seeger to write a piece on advice for a young Case Officer/Intelligence Officer for shopping for a watch.  Spoiler alert: it is not a Rolex. CIA Case Officer: The Ideal Timepiece by J.R. Seeger When I joined the CIA in the 1980s, my supervisors all served in Southeast Asia during the ‘60s and ’70s. Almost all men and they wore what might have been considered a “headquarters uniform:” short sleeved white or blue oxford shirts, ties always loose at the throat, and khaki pants.  On one wrist was a gold chain known as a baht chain because each link was of a certain value in the Thai currency.  On the other wrist was a Rolex watch.  Usually, the watches were Rolex GMT Masters or Rolex Datejust watches. No Rolex or other Mil-Spec watches for them. They did not need to pretend to be commandos. They were commandos.  Vintage Rolex sign, Tawila District in Aden, Yemen (Photo Credit: Unknown) I had just left the Army and had a Bulova watch given to me by my mother when I graduated from high school over a dozen years earlier.  By the early 1980s, a Rolex – any Rolex – was more than a two month’s salary and I wasn’t about to spend that sort of money on a tool when my Bulova still worked well and my backup watch, a Casio digital watch, was under $50. The Swiss tool watch train had left the station and I was still on the platform. I have previously written about my experience with watches as tools in the Afghan war-zone. Black acrylic watches, accurate quartz watches, were my choice. Twenty years later, when we talk about watches for the field, we are looking at a world where Case Officers (C/Os) are less likely to be in forward operating bases in warzones. They are more likely to work in traditional postings in major cities around the world. It is a different environment and it calls for a different sort of kit. When we are talking about “watches for the field,” we are not using the term in the same way that most watch companies might. After all, the CIA Case Officer in the field is going to face challenges that are not consistent with a mountain climber, a yacht racer, a member of the armed forces, or a first responder (i.e. police officer, fire fighter, or EMT). That doesn’t mean that a “field watch” used by one of these avocations and professions won’t work with Case Officer tradecraft.  It just means that there are other, different requirements.   Seeger and General Dostum on the night of insertion in Afghanistan, 16 October 2001, Casio F-91W on Seeger’s wrist. (Photo Credit: Seeger) So, what are the basic requirements for a CIA field watch?   The watch must be reliable.  That means it must work all the time, every time; The watch must be easy to read at a glance; The watch must be readable in the dark either through luminous hands or a LED backlight; The watch must be rugged enough to withstand dust, water, and shock. Arabic Seiko (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Here is where the requirements shift when shopping for a C/O: The watch must be low profile. A C/O walking on the streets with an expensive Swiss or Japanese watch is a target for criminals and, just as important, easy to spot by surveillance. Expensive and/or out of place items – sports cars, watches, shoes, clothes, a bag – make it easy for surveillance to spot their target and keep on their target.  On the street, a C/O must disappear into the crowd.  Just as a fine European sports car is not appropriate for a C/O in the field, a large, polished dive watch on a steel bracelet stands out and gives surveillance another point of reference when they are tracking a C/O; As a corollary to the above point, the watch must be consistent with the C/O’s cover. A C/O must be able to transition quickly from cover duty to clandestine work. While there may be time to go home and change, it isn’t as if the C/O on the street can assume an entirely different persona (an outfit more suited to a Special Operations night raid for example). Therefore, a large PVD or black acrylic watch that can withstand over 20 ATMs underwater and has tritium luminous markers is unlikely to be a good choice unless the C/O’s cover supports that sort of watch; The watch must not be a “connected” watch. If your watch helps you connect to the outside world through Bluetooth or directly through a wireless signal of any sort, it also means your watch can be used by an adversary to track you.  A few years ago, US military force protection studies demonstrated that fitness tracker smart watches could be used by an adversary to determine precisely where an individual serviceman was and, then by extension, where his unit was in the field. Smart watches are off limits to case officers because case officers never want to help adversaries track them. A map of activity in Djibouti.  “A map of fitness-tracker data may have compromised top-secret US military bases around the world” (Source: Business Insider) What are the options for a C/O who doesn’t have a large, personal budget but needs a watch that fits in all the parts of his/her life? Among my colleagues, I am a notorious cheapskate, so I’m offering the following choices for under $1000.  Please note:  We have experience with most if not all of these watches, but none of the companies involved have any commercial links to W.O.E.  At the lowest end of the spectrum are Casio, Timex and Seiko watches. These companies all make inexpensive, rugged watches. Some of the higher end Casio G-shocks and Timex Ironman watches are monsters on the wrist and probably not ideal for a C/O.  That said, a 5610 Solar G-shock, a Timex Expedition or even the smaller Ironman watches, or any selection from the Seiko 5 collection are all good choices for well under $200.  There may have been a time when a black acrylic watch was not acceptable for daily business wear.  That time is long passed; (Photo Credit: James Rupley) At the mid-range ($200-600), the choices expand exponentially. There are American Assembled watches, European and Japanese models that all work in this category.  Most are “dress tool” watches that have over 10ATM or more of water resistance, sapphire crystals and reliable movements.  At this price point, it is possible to find US firms such as Vaer, Shinola, Sangin or Cincinnati Watch company, Japanese firms Seiko, Orient, Citizen or Bulova, and Swiss firms like Davosa and Tissot.  Other European watch companies including the French firm Wolbrook and the German firm LACO also make watches that fit the requirements. All pass the C/O test of looking like a watch a “normal” person might wear but still provide reliability, ruggedness and good visibility during night work; Sangin Overlord and W.O.E. numbered coin (J.R. Seeger) When you approach $1000, the c/o crosses the threshold from tool to luxury tool watch. Formerly a US company and now part of the Swatch Group, Hamilton Khaki line– especially when paired with a leather strap or steel bracelet are hard to beat for the blend of day work wear and night street operations.  Seiko has their own options with the Seiko Alpinist and other sport watches in the Prospex line.  And, once again Tissot watches at this price range answer all of the requirements. Seiko Alpinist (Seiko) Conclusion:  There are dozens of other watches out there that a C/O can use in the field. Most Case Officers answer direct questions with two words: It depends. That is because every human is different and what is ideal for one person is useless for another. Some will want quartz watches for the “set it and forget it” nature of the watch.  Others will want a mechanical watch that requires slightly more care in setting the time but does not rely on a battery. C/O work is not about gunfights, explosions, or car chases (leave that image for our favorite thrillers), but that doesn’t mean a case officer’s watch isn’t an essential piece of kit. Time is everything for a Case Officer and a watch is what keeps a C/O on time. Read Next: Ask Watches Of Espionage Anything  J.R. Seeger's personal watch collection and memorabilia. J.R. Seeger served as a paratrooper in the 82nd Airborne and as a CIA officer for a total of 27 years of federal service. He served 17 years in multiple field assignments focused on counterterrorism, counterintelligence and irregular warfare.  During his final, 3-year assignment in CIA Headquarters, he first served as a chief of operations for a geographic division in the Directorate of Operations and then served as a deputy director and deputy chief of the CIA Counterterrorism Center.  Seeger led multiple, small unit teams during his service, including leading one of the CIA teams that infiltrated into Afghanistan after 9/11. Since his retirement, J.R. has written articles and book reviews in the CIA professional journal “Studies in Intelligence” and the T.E. Lawrence Society newsletter. His seven-part MIKE4 series is about a family who have served in the special operations and intelligence community from World War II to the present. This newsletter has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

From Grenada to Ground Zero With Army Ranger Jose Gordon: Anti-aircraft rounds pierced the skin of the aircraft from bottom to top, their trajectory indicated by the occasional laser-like tracer. As the MC-130 Combat Talon of the Air Force’s 1st Special Operations Wing settled into its final approach, Ranger Private Jose Gordon ambled to his feet,

We get a lot of questions about “everyday carry,” commonly known as “EDC.” So in light of these requests, we want to provide some insight into our typical EDC and what I carried as a CIA Case Officer (C/O) in Africa and the Middle East. A timepiece is a crucial and often overlooked

Keeping your watches and tools organized is important and having a central location in your house for your wallet, keys, watch and other tools is crucial.  So we designed our own W.O.E. Everyday Carry (EDC) Valet for at-home use or while on the move.  Each order includes a W.O.E. Surreptitious Beverage Entry Tool (S-BET), aka a challenge coin bottle opener.

Chris Costa is the Executive Director of the International Spy Museum and a 34-year veteran intelligence officer, with extensive experience working in counterintelligence, human intelligence and with special operations forces (SOF).  Chris has worked in numerous operational positions throughout the globe and was the first civilian squadron Deputy Director at the Naval Special Warfare Development Group, and the Special Assistant to the President & Senior Director for Counterterrorism at the National Security Council.  The one common thread throughout his career is the presence of a Rolex Submariner on his wrist. A Tale of Two Watches  By Christopher P. Costa I came from humble roots.  My mother raised me and my two siblings alone as a single parent after my dad passed away far too young. I was always into watches, but it was my younger brother who caringly kept my father’s watches and much later in life gave them to my two sons at special milestones in their lives; he continued this tradition by gifting watches to our grandsons.  The idea of me or my siblings having a Rolex of our own was far-fetched until much later in our lives. I spent most of my career as a U.S. Army intelligence officer.  After the Panama invasion and then the first Gulf War, I thought maybe I could afford to buy a Rolex Submariner; I wanted something meaningful to leave for one of my boys.  Like many soldiers, I saw early on in my army career the untimely service-related deaths of troops, way more often than I like to talk about.  In one of my first assignments, I dealt with the tragic aftermath of the Gander, Newfoundland plane crash that killed 248 soldiers.  Two of the fallen troops who perished in the crash were from my rifle platoon as part of the 101st Airborne Division.  This disaster was an early reminder in my career that life was precious and fleeting.  December 12, 1985, Arrow Air Flight 1285 crashed during take-off in Gander, Newfoundland. The chartered flight was transporting 248 soldiers from the 101st Airborne back to their base at Fort Campbell, Kentucky, ending a six-month peace-keeping mission in Sinai, Egypt. (Photo Credit: DOD) After returning home from the first Gulf War, my wife ended up getting me the Rolex Submariner that I had always wanted, and I wore it for the rest of my intelligence career, ever-mindful of its deeper meaning.  I wore it for decades– during training to be a Case Officer; during hurried meetings in cars with sources; in remote villages, cities, and safehouses.  I wore it during surveillance and countersurveillance.  I wore it in Afghanistan, Iraq, and the Horn of Africa.  I even wore that Rolex when I briefed the President on terrorism and hostages at the White House.  I often quipped to my sons that if my Rolex Submariner could talk, many of the stories it could tell would be classified.  It was a critical piece of my gear and part of my clandestine work.  Costa (L) serving as Special Assistant to the President & Senior Director for Counterterrorism at the National Security Council. (Photo Credit: White House) Case Officers carefully, even obsessively, focus on their operational time windows for meetings with their sources.  Precision is important in both clandestine work and in special operations.  So is operational adaptation, when necessary. I sheepishly smile when I think of an improvisation featuring that Rolex Submariner during an important meeting that I had with an influential Afghan tribal leader.  The ambassador, a general officer, senior intelligence officers – and even the president of that country – were all anxious to hear the results of that particular meeting, which was very much choreographed to achieve our objectives, namely to change the malign behavior of a tribe and its fighters.  I was frustrated and weary of the lengthy, lecturing tone of the tribal chieftain during my excruciating meeting with him, so along with a little unrehearsed drama, I tersely cut the chieftain off in mid-sentence.  I told him that I will see him thirty days from that very moment, and, somewhat theatrically, I tapped my Rolex and told him the exact time I expected him back to see me.  He protested that al-Qaeda would kill him if he came back.  I told him that was not my problem.  No one aware of that meeting believed this warlord would be back thirty days from the moment that I registered the time out loud by glancing at my Rolex.  Surprisingly, the tribal chief came back thirty days later at the exact time I had directed, then he returned again – and again. During another combat deployment, I woke up in the middle of the night with pangs of anxiousness, something I suspect is universal among people operating in combat zones.  I worried that an improvised roadside explosive and a fiery ambush would destroy my watch and my son would never get it.  In the aftermath of a particularly tough night in a combat zone, where a lethal ambush had taken place, I contemplated taking the watch off and leaving it behind at a forward operating base. I was going out again to the same village where the attack had taken place the night before, and I thought it was prudent to leave the watch behind, having a premonition of bad things ahead.  In the end, I just decided to wear the watch anyway.  I was once again fortunate and incredibly grateful to get through another deployment.  After all those years, that Rolex made it, and in good time, it will be passed on to my oldest son with a few tales attached to it. As it turned out, my younger brother turned his passion for watches into a successful professional career at Tourneau Watch Company and Rolex. He traveled across the United States as well as internationally to Switzerland, at the request of manufacturers looking to expand their market share, and was a brand ambassador for Breitling.  My brother loved watches – and people – and his unflinching optimism for life is more a parable of his character perhaps, rather than a tale about a second Rolex. Coming up on my 60th birthday I really wanted another watch, albeit I was self-conscious that perhaps one Rolex was enough for me.  But I really wanted a second watch so that I could leave it to my youngest son someday.  My brother – always selfless – engineered a conspiracy with my wife and his watch store colleagues for a 60th birthday surprise.  So, my wife bought me a Rolex GMT-Master II, and my whole family chipped in to get me a very nice watch winder.  I was serenely at peace knowing that I could someday leave a Rolex for each of my sons.    Still, I was a little regretful that the GMT-Master would not be on my wrist during any clandestine meetings, in combat zones, nor with any tribal leaders.  My GMT-Master would never have the history of that first watch.  Or so I thought. Just about a year to the day that my brother and wife arranged to get me that Rolex GMT-Master, fulfilling my plan of being able to pass the watch on to my second son, my brother died unexpectedly. Through my personal grieving, I realized yet another gift my brother gave me.  The GMT-Master does not need to be on my wrist for clandestine work; this second watch is my brother’s legacy, it’s part of our family story now – our lore – that will get told and passed on.  My brother never had his own Rolex, or his own children; he was simply a loving brother, son, friend, uncle and a treasured colleague for those loyal co-workers that sold watches alongside him in Boston.  He was satisfied with being happy for others.  So, every morning that I put on that watch, it’s a treasured reminder of my brother’s selflessness and the precious time he shared with us.    READ NEXT: CIA Analysis Of Foreign Leaders’ Timepieces Colonel Costa is the Executive Director of the International Spy Museum, and a 34-year veteran of the Department of Defense. Previously, he served 25 years in the United States Army working in counterintelligence, human intelligence and with special operations forces (SOF) in Central America, Europe, and throughout the Middle East. He ran a wide range of intelligence and special operations in Panama, Bosnia, the first and second Iraq wars, and Afghanistan. Costa earned two Bronze stars for sensitive human intelligence work in Afghanistan. Later assigned to the Naval Special Warfare Development Group, he served as the first civilian squadron Deputy Director. In 2013, Costa was inducted into the United States Special Operations Commando Hall of Honor for lifetime service to US Special Operations. Most recently, he served as the Special Assistant to the President & Senior Director for Counterterrorism at the National Security Council.  

“Unit watches” are at the heart of watch culture in the National Security community and closely tied to the idea of “Watches of Espionage.”  A unit watch is a timepiece that is customized by the manufacturer for members of a specific unit or organization inside the military.  Customizations can include the unit’s insignia or motto on the dial and/or an engraving on the caseback. 

Former CIA Paramilitary Officer Billy Waugh passed away at the age of 93 exactly one week ago; but we don’t mourn his death–instead we celebrate his incredible life of service in the best way we know how–through his timepieces. William “Billy” Waugh is the Forest Gump of CIA and Special Forces with a larger than life personality and an uncanny knack for adventure. At the conclusion of WWII he attempted to enlist in the United States Marine Corps at age 15. His age got in the way, but three years later, in ‘48, he successfully enlisted in the United States Army, launching a career that would become nothing short of legendary in the Special Operations community.  (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In the very year Waugh enlisted, North Korea, along with Israel, became recognized nations. The US-led Berlin Airlift was underway in response to a Soviet blockade, and Czechoslovakia had fallen to communism. By the time Waugh retired in 2005 at age 75 from the CIA, the entire geopolitical landscape had been dramatically reshaped–and Waugh’s half a century of service had played a part in that change. He deployed to the Korean, Vietnam, and Afghanistan wars as well as numerous covert operations throughout the globe. Waugh’s Rolex, Photo Provided by Waugh’s widow through Ric Prado and Tom Marshall. Waugh wore several watches throughout his career, including at least three iconic Rolexes and a Seiko 6309. They were crucial parts of his kit and can be seen on his wrist from pictures in Vietnam, Sudan, Cuba, Afghanistan, and in his retirement as he speaks to the next generation of warriors.  Like many stories here at W.O.E., it’s never strictly about the watches. The watches we cover are simply a token–a memento–that stand in to represent incredible tales of servitude and sacrifice. Billy Waugh’s watches are no different. They represent key moments in a life dedicated to the Special Operations community. The Missing Rolex, Vietnam: In 1954, after serving in Korea, Waugh earned his Green Beret and joined the 10th Special Forces Group in Bad Tölz, in what was West Germany at the time. The same year the Vietnam war kicked off, and Waugh found himself right at the center of the conflict for a number of years. Eventually Waugh joined Special Forces A-team A-321, an “Operational Detachment Alpha” serving with 5th Special Forces Group.  The ODA conducted a night raid on a Viet Cong compound in Bong Son, in Binh Dinh Province. The area was littered with Viet Cong, North Vietnamese and other Communist forces including the Chinese and that left Waugh and his teammates thoroughly outnumbered. A fire fight broke out and the ODA was hit hard. Most of Waugh’s teammates were injured in the fight, including Waugh. He described the situation in his book, Hunting the Jackal. Waugh as a young Special Forces Master Sergeant, 1964 (Photo Crédit: Hunting the Jackal) I took another bullet, this time across the right side of my forehead. I don’t know for sure, but I believe the bullet ricocheted off the bamboo before striking me. It sliced in and out of a two-inch section of my forehead, and it immediately started to bleed like an open faucet. It sounds like the punch line to a bad joke, but you know it’s a bad day when the best thing about it is getting shot in the head. Miraculously Waugh was still alive, but in bad shape.  All that mud had baked on me like a crust. The leeches were everywhere. The bones on my leg were sun-baked. The dried blood on my forehead made it tough to see, but I didn’t need my eyes to understand I was naked. They’d (the North Vietnamese Army) come across that paddy and stripped me of my clothes, my Rolex watch, my gear–everything.  Eventually Waugh's teammates found him and brought him to safety. The road to recovery was long, but for his valiant efforts, he was awarded a Silver Star and a Purple Heart.  While we can’t say for sure, this Rolex was likely a Submariner ref. 5513 or GMT ref. 1675, both popular in the SF community and could then be purchased for “a month's salary.”  Waugh (left) in 1969 wearing what is potentially a replacement Rolex on a fabric strap and compass. (Photo Credit: Unknown) After recovering, Waugh got back in the fight and joined the shadowy Military Assistance Command-Vietnam Studies and Observations Group (MACV-SOG). Plenty of his work in this capacity is still classified, but it’s known that he helped train up Cambodian and Vietnamese forces in unconventional warfare tactics that would help disrupt the Ho Chi Minh trail supply route and stymy the efforts of the Viet Cong. Additionally, Waugh became highly skilled in High Altitude Low Opening parachute jumps, known as HALO. This insertion platform allowed operators to enter hostile territory virtually undetected. Waugh led the last special reconnaissance mission in ‘71; Waugh and his teammates used the HALO platform to enter a denied territory held by the NVA.  Custom Gem-set Gold Rolex Day-Date: Waugh briefly retired from military service when the Vietnam War wound down and took a job with the United States Postal Service. But Waugh wasn’t meant for the USPS. He had more to give to the world of Special Operations. Before he knew it, he was back in the fold.  In the mid-1970’s Edwin Wilson, formerly CIA, recruited Waugh and a few of his former teammates to train up Libyan special forces. Waugh thought this was a CIA-backed operation, but it turned out Wilson was acting outside an official capacity. Waugh's saving grace is that he was indeed recruited by CIA prior to his transition to Libya for Wilson’s project. The CIA tasked him with photographing and reporting on any interesting activity that he noticed while he was there. The USSR was heavily invested in Libya and was of interest to US security. He photographed and observed the soldiers he was training and various Surface-to-Air missile sites.  Waugh’s Gold Rolex Day-Date with aftermarket diamonds. (Photo Credit: member of W.O.E. Community) It was here that he reportedly purchased a gem-set gold Rolex Day-Date. According to a member of the W.O.E. community, Waugh told students of a recent Special Forces 18A course that he “purchased it in the late seventies in Libya for 13-14k.” But Waugh was well aware of the rise in value of Rolex watches. “Ya better believe that goddamn thing is worth about $25k or more now!” Waugh exclaimed when discussing the watch.  Waugh’s Rolex, Photo Provided by Waugh’s widow through Ric Prado and Tom Marshall. We’ve had pictures of this watch for over a year but didn’t publish them for a simple reason: we surmised the authenticity of the watch may have been questionable.  However, we reached out to several vintage watch experts who said they believe the watch is likely real but modified with aftermarket diamonds on the bezel and dial. This style of modification was relatively common during the period. Rolex even launched its own service creating bespoke pieces for discerning clients in the ‘60s and ‘70s with custom gem-setting.  While we can’t establish a concrete history of the watch, the diamond-set gold Rolex is perfect for an old school SF operator.  Waugh was also famous for wearing an SF pendant on a gold chain and gold rings.  This watch can be seen frequently on his wrist after retirement, the bracelet is stretched and scratched after decades of hard use. (Photo Credit: Nick Stubbs / US Air Force / Wikimedia Commons / Public Domain) Post Libya: After his Libya stint Waugh was assigned to the Kwajalein Missile Range in the Marshall Islands to survey and report on Soviet maritime activity in the area. In 1991 he returned to Africa, this time to Khartoum, Sudan to survey and track Usama Bin Laden, who was relatively unknown to the public but of interest to the US intelligence. Waugh’s assignment was to survey the activities and patterns of life of Bin Laden. According to a contact that discussed the assignment with Waugh, he would “conduct his surveillance under the guise of going for a jog around the living area of bin Laden and his guards, frequently ‘flipping those bastards the bird or pretending to shoot them by pointing finger guns and imitating pulling the trigger’ while they watched him conduct his run. Waugh mentioned pushing up the request to kill bin Laden as it didn’t make sense to him to burn more time watching him. That request was denied and he wrapped up his surveillance shortly thereafter.”  Waugh in Cairo, Egypt late 1990s (Photo Credit: Waugh) The subject of much of Waugh’s book, Hunting the Jackal, is Ilich Ramirez Sanchez, known as “Carlos the Jackal.” Waugh was assigned to track him down after Sanchez had evaded a number of intelligence agencies around the world after committing murder in a number of countries and playing a role in terror attacks. Waugh set up a surveillance site, tracked and photographed The Jackal for some time before turning over the intelligence to the French, who conducted the capture mission.  Rolex 1675 “Pepsi” GMT-Master: Rolex GMT on Waugh’s wrist in retirement. (Photo Credit, Recoil Magazine and Tom Marshall) We have previously said that a GMT-Master is the perfect watch for a CIA Case Officer, and this is especially true for an old school operator like Billy Waugh.  This reference is likely from the 1970s around the time Waugh would have been recruited by the CIA.  Unfortunately, we are unable to confirm the details of when he acquired the watch and if it was worn operationally in any capacity, though given Waugh’s life, it is reasonable to assume this is the case. Waugh has been photographed wearing the watch, including during a recent interview with Recoil Magazine. Rolex GMT on Waugh’s wrist in retirement. (Photo Credit, Recoil Magazine and Tom Marshall) September 11th, 2001: After the September 11 attacks, Waugh, then 71, deployed to Afghanistan as a member of the CIA’s Northern Alliance Liaison Team –codenamed JAWBREAKER.  The Rolex was left at home and Waugh can be seen wearing a digital Suunto watch, similar to that worn by CIA team leader J.R. Seeger, as documented in “Digital Watches Of Espionage.”  As previously discussed, the digital tool-watch was a far more effective tool for the modern day fighter, even a SOG veteran like Waugh.   Despite his age, Waugh was well suited for the initial mission into Afghanistan, given his time tracking Usama bin Laden in Sudan in the ‘90s and his decades of combat and intelligence experience.  He would celebrate his 72nd birthday in Afghanistan. Gardez, Afghanistan January 2002, wearing a Suunto (Photo Credit: Hunting the Jackal, Waugh) In total, Waugh would be awarded one Silver Star, four Bronze Stars for Valor, four Commendation Ribbons for Valor, fourteen Air Medals for Valor, two Combat Infantryman badges and eight Purple Hearts.  We can also assume Waugh was awarded numerous classified commendations from CIA. As previously discussed, this reflection is less about Waugh’s watches and more about the man who wore them.  Billy Waugh served the nation with the most difficult assignments for both the US Army Special Forces and the Central Intelligence Agency.  This is our way to memorialize that service and honor his sacrifice. Fair Winds and Following Seas Waugh sky diving in Cuba wearing a Seiko 6309 at an astonishing 89 years old. (Photo Credit: Annie Jacobson)  For additional information, read Waugh’s “Hunting the Jackal” and watch the interview with Waugh by Recoil Magazine.  Thank you for Tom Marshall and an unnamed member of the W.O.E. community for providing pictures and additional background on the pieces. Read Next: Vietnam MACV-SOG Seikos: Setting The Record Straight   

The Shield Protects the Crown:  W.O.E. is a watch snob–or at least I was. For years, I looked down on Tudor as an inferior tool watch existing in the shadow of its big brother Rolex. I never understood why someone with a Rolex would purchase a Tudor.  After all, Tudor is a poor man's Rolex, or so I thought. Most haters are motivated by insecurity, but my views were simply shaped by ignorance. I didn’t know much about Tudor and was unaware of Tudor’s long standing relationship with the Intelligence and Special Operations communities, a personally relevant intersection.  I comfort myself by saying this ignorance was understandable as Tudor left the U.S. market in the 1990s and did not return until 2013.  But this excuse is weak at best for a former CIA officer who spent years overseas window shopping for watches in boutiques around the world. Tudor still existed in some capacity or another in the most unexpected markets. For instance, it never pulled out of China, and has been selling the Prince Date and Prince Date Day for almost half a century in select Eastern markets. These watches never made it to the US, even after Tudor returned in 2013. Retired Navy Adm. William McRaven wearing Tudor Pelagos. (Photo Credit: Mike Segar/Reuters) To be fair, when I worked at CIA, I was far from a watch nerd.  I did not read Hodinkee, watch Bark and Jack YouTube videos, or follow watch pages on Instagram. I loved watches and used them regularly, but my knowledge was entirely surface-level. My interests were driven by conversations with others, the appearance and feel of the watch on the wrist, and its practical utility.  I was either the purest or most superficial watch enthusiast on the planet, you decide. There’s a purity in knowing just enough to enjoy watches for what they are rather than deliberate over them.  Navy SEAL Philip "Moki" Martin issued Tudor Submariners (7928 - left) and (7016-right) (Photo Credit Hodinkee, James Stacey)  Like many who go on to a career at the tip of the spear, growing up I devoured books on National Security and Special Operations.  Prior to 9/11, much of that literature revolved around the Vietnam War and a handful of Cold War-era CIA memoirs.  Frequently referenced in these books were “Rolex watches.” While some of these were undoubtedly Rolex Submariners and GMTs purchased from the PX, in reality many of these were likely issued Tudor Submariners (7928 and others), understandably mistaken as Rolex since they had “CASE BY ROLEX GENEVA ORIGINAL OYSTER” engraved on the caseback, not to mention the Rolex crown in relief on the crown of the watch, or the Rolex logos engraved on the bracelet clasp. In fact, many of these watches were nearly identical to their Rolex counterparts except for the movement and dials. Moki Martin in Vietnam as a Navy Seal, Tudor 7928 on the wrist (Photo Credit: Moki Martin) Today, I have multiple Rolex watches in my collection and the watch industry connections to easily buy a new Rolex at retail (flex). But I elected to go with Tudor for two out of my last three watch purchases.  As discussed in “Ask W.O.E. Anything,” my ultimate grail is not a Rolex, but a military-issued Tudor Submariner. Last week, some of the world’s largest and most important watch brands released new timepieces during a trade show dubbed “Watches and Wonders” in Geneva, Switzerland.  Tudor made some significant headway including the release of Black Bay 54 and an updated Black Bay 41 with a striking red bezel, and more importantly some technological and cosmetic advancements that will permeate the entire collection in due time.  Newly released Tudor Black Bay 54 (Photo Credit: Tudor Product shot) We’ll leave the reviews of new references to the professional watch nerds, but we want to step back and provide our understanding of Tudor’s current position in the market and, perhaps more importantly, how it relates to our community. Tudor entered 2023 as the undisputed leader in the luxury tool watch space, with luxury watches crudely defined as watches costing over $2,500. I am and always will be a Rolex man with a particular interest in pre-ceramic sports watches, but Tudor is the future for tool watch enthusiasts. This is the way. Rolex- Jewelry or Tool Watch? Rolex Explorer II (Photo Credit: James Rupley) To understand this change, one must first understand how Tudor’s big brother, Rolex, has evolved over the previous two decades.  The late 2000s introduction of the ceramic bezel marked a turning point for the brand.  Since then, Rolex has trended towards a sleeker, more polished look. While enthusiasts will lament the good ole days and say Rolex has sold out, from a business perspective, this was clearly the right move.  A recent Morgan Stanley report concluded Rolex is the largest stakeholder in the Swiss watch industry, with an estimated 29% of total sales at retail. Over the subsequent 15 years, there has been a significant increase in demand for Rolex watches, which has resulted in models becoming near-unobtainable at retail prices. It’s simple, demand outstrips supply. Even if you are able to acquire one from an authorized dealer, the customer experience is less than satisfactory, with months of waiting on an opaque “list” kissing the ass of a sales associate.  With secondary prices at times twice retail, it is hard to justify the “use your tools” mentality while wearing a new Rolex GMT, which might be worth more than your car. We won't go as far as to say that a Rolex is a piece of jewelry rather than a tool watch; however, this widely held perception is understandable. Black Bay 58 on W.O.E. Jedburgh Strap (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Tudor- The Shield Protects the Crown In sharp contrast to Rolex, and by design, Tudor has returned to its roots.  In 1926, Hans Wilsdorf, Rolex’s founder, created Tudor as a more affordable alternative. Many international SpecOps and maritime units–including those from Argentina, the US, Israel, France, Canada, South Africa, and even Jamaica– adopted the Tudor Submariner as their tool of choice in the second half of the 20th Century.  Today, Tudor’s association with Rolex allows Tudor to embrace its tool watch heritage and compete with brands in the $3,000-$5,000 market. One only has to look at the logos to understand the relationship between the two brands. Tudor's logo is the shield, Rolex's is the crown. The crown is worn by kings, the shield is carried by soldiers. The "shield protects the crown" and the Warrior-King reps both.  Marine Nationale issued Tudor 9401 on French diver - mid-1970s (Photo Credit: Tudor/MN) Some say that “Tudor of today is what Rolex was in the mid-20th century,” but a more accurate statement would be that Tudor of today is what Tudor was in the mid-20th Century.  While other brands have capitalized on the latest trends (Tiffany blue everything?) and moved upmarket, Tudor has stuck to its roots: premium yet relatively “affordable” tool watches. Few luxury brands are more aligned with the ethos of W.O.E. and the belief that you should use your tools. Look at Tudor's marketing materials and you will see men and women on expeditions, deep sea dives, alpine climbs, and even Special Operations maritime units (guns obviously excluded). Dallas Alexander JTF2 Tudor Pelagos (Photo Credit: Shawn Ryan Show) Further, Tudor appears to quietly support “unit watches” for some of the most elite SpecOps units, including one that was recently shown on the wrist of a former Canadian JTF2 sniper, Dallas Alexander, during an interview on the Shawn Ryan Show.  These collaborations are even more meaningful as the predecessors of these units wore Tudor MilSubs (Tudors were issued to the Royal Canadian Navy). Many others have not been seen in the public domain, like this U.S. Secret Service Counter Assault Team (CAT) "HAWKEYE" Pelagos. U.S. Secret Service Counter Assault Team (CAT) call sign- HAWKEYE Unit Watch -Posted with approval from owner (Anonymous)  In sharp contrast to Rolex, I recently visited the Tudor boutique in New York and they had every reference available for sale, with the two exceptions of the FXD and the relatively-new Pelagos 39. It is sad that this is notable, but that is the reality of the watch market today. 2022 marked a historic moment for Tudor and we believe that the brand has entered 2023 as the undisputed leader in the luxury tool watch category.  Tudor’s 2022 releases of the Back Bay Pro and the sub-$3k Ranger with a strap was a gangster move and the encore of the near-perfect titanium Pelagos 39 was the finisher. Black Bay 58, Pelagos FXD, Pelagos 39 (Photo Credit: you already know) As a general practice, W.O.E. does not focus on watch reviews.  Mostly this is because the traditional watch media is better suited for analyzing new releases, movements, etc.  Often this is just regurgitating marketing material from the company and ultimately concluding that the watch should be “one millimeter smaller/larger” or some other minute change that would impact very few. That said, here is our analysis of what we believe are the top three “tool watches” produced by Tudor: the Pelagos 39, Pelagos (FXD/LHD), and the Black Bay 58. Pelagos/LHD/FXD- Apex Predator:  Jason Heaton - “In a sea of dive watches, the Tudor Pelagos is an apex predator.” Jason Heaton said it best, “the Pelagos and LHD are the apex predators of the Tudor dive watches, the best modern mechanical dive watches on the market.” Rated to 500 meters with a helium escape valve, a beefy 42mm case, a date window, a titanium bracelet with a patented extension system, and a complementary rubber strap with a wetsuit extension, the Pelagos is everything you need in a watch. The Pelagos is also offered in a left-hand configuration (LHD) and a purpose-designed FXD developed in partnership with the French SOF unit, the Commando Hubert, something we will dive into in a future Dispatch. Complaints: There aren't many.  The watch has a lot of entirely unnecessary features, but you could say the same about most tool watches and they do not take it overboard.  As a periodic resort diver, W.O.E. knows enough about the helium escape valve to know I will never need one. Also, 42 mm is larger than most present-day watches but it does wear smaller than the specs suggest. Black Bay Fifty Eight- a new classic: Black Bay 58 in the African Bush, 2022. (Photo Credit: W.O.E.) This is a classic legacy piece with not-so-subtle nods to Tudor's Big Crown Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner past with the lack of crown guards, red triangle on the bezel at 0/60, and gold accents, giving it an almost patinated look, but not overdone. An absolute staple in any collection whether you are a man or woman, a badass Navy SEAL Green Beret sniper, or a keyboard warrior.  Something that can be worn on the beach, in a boardroom, or even the African bush. Complaints: The faux riveted bracelet is a little much and drilled lug holes would be gangster. Pelagos 39 - a modern Tudor Submariner:  Pelagos 39- W.O.E.'s Personal (Photo Credit: Rupley) The P39 seemingly came out of nowhere and went on to become the undisputed 2022 dive watch champion.  While dubbed a smaller version of the 42mm Pelagos, in reality, this is more of a modernized titanium Tudor Submariner than a smaller Pelagos.  Titanium has a signature look and is reminiscent of tools that get used. The SR-71 Blackbird is one of them.  Of the three watches I purchased over the past year, this is what has been on my wrist the most.  Unfortunately, given the high demand, these are still incredibly hard to find due to limited allocations to each dealer, but we expect this to subside in the near future. Complaints:  The lume on the hands is faint; it is hard to understand how this passed the final Quality Control in Geneva and should be a simple fix.  The requirement to use the titanium end links with the rubber strap results in an odd look.  The 21mm lug-to-lug is completely unnecessary but hardly noticeable with a solid fabric strap (like the W.O.E.-ZA Single Pass). Would a date option be nice? Yes. Would a GMT hand be cool? For sure, but for the Pelagos 39, the functionality is in the simplicity.   20mm W.O.E.-ZA Strap on the 21mm Pelagos 39 (James Rupley) Final Thoughts: There are plenty of other great Tudors in the lineup, including the Black Bay Pro and the GMT which are both popular in the W.O.E. community and we encourage you to check them out.  While smaller than we generally prefer, the newly released Black Bay 54 is intriguing in its nod to the vintage 7922 and improvements from the BB58. Use this list as a starting point, but don’t let us influence your opinions.  Visit a nearby boutique and you can pretty much guarantee that they will have at least some models to try and take home that day if you so choose.  Sadly, in-store availability isn’t guaranteed, but that is the harsh reality of buying watches in 2023. Regardless of what you decide, get out there and use your tools.   -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our free weekly newsletter for further updates HERE. This article has been reviewed by the CIA's Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.   Read Next: The Pragmatic Journey Of A SEAL Through Watch Collecting  

The "Escape and Evasion" Rolex The final requirement to be certified as a CIA Case Officer (C/O) is to pass the certification course at a classified government training center commonly referred to as “the Farm.”  Students learn the tradecraft to clandestinely recruit and handle assets.  The entire learning process is a surreal experience, and the atmosphere at “the Farm” is somewhere between a college campus with a constant stream of students riding by on cruiser bikes (IYKYK), a covert paramilitary base with state-of-the-art tactical facilities, and Hogwarts, a place where you learn the dark arts they don’t teach in regular school. Like most government training programs, the curriculum is divided between classroom lecture and discussion sessions combined with significant role-playing and practical applications. The third, and largely unofficial, pillar of the training is informal mentoring from the instructors and Independent Contractors, all of whom are former Case Officers with significant real world experience.  True to the stereotype, much of these conversations happen over beers at the facility’s notorious watering hole after long days of training. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) One night after a Surveillance Detection evolution, our small group was sitting in that dimly-lit bar, nursing our drinks as we listened to grizzled old Africa Division C/O regale stories of his decades “on the continent” during the Cold War. It was late, the evening was wrapping up, and the bartender rang the bell for last call. Suddenly the instructor stood up and tapped a Rolex GMT-Master on his wrist, “I will leave you with one point: always wear a Rolex. A fellow Case Officer traded his for the last seat on a plane out of (REDACTED) during the (REDACTED) Civil War in the 70s, and that watch saved his life.  A story for another time.” The moment quickly passed, like many others during that six month period that I have long forgotten.  I never heard the full story, I still don’t know if it was true or just typical bravado from a crusty old C/O who never let the truth get in the way of a good story. (Rolex Coke 16710 on W.O.E. DNC Strap, Photo Credit: James Rupley) Rolex as an Escape and Evasion Tool: Visit any internet watch forum or social media page on military watches and you are bound to see someone claim they know someone who was an “operator” who wore a Rolex to barter their way out of a bad situation.  But have watches ever really been used for this purpose?  Or are these only tall tales told over beers?  I know many people (myself included) who wore a luxury timepiece while operational at CIA and in the Special Operations community.  We have documented many of them on Watches of Espionage in the past.  While the main purpose of the watch was not for Escape and Evasion (E&E), that was always an option and a contingency plan if needed. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) The concept is simple: Should you find yourself in need of immediate help, the watch can be utilized as a form of currency that can be traded for a few hours of shelter in a basement, a ride to the nearest international border, or a seat on the next plane out of a war-torn nation. A Rolex is easier to carry and less likely to be misplaced than ounces of gold or stacks of hundred dollar bills. The brand has a perceived inherent value and is immediately recognizable throughout the world.  CIA finance officers will not reimburse a personal watch if used for this purpose, but ultimately it was a financial risk I was willing to take in my overseas operations. Bottom Line Up Front (BLUF), we have never heard a confirmed story of a CIA officer using a timepiece in this manner. But that’s not to say it’s a total fallacy, there are indeed some historical examples of timepieces being used, or at least intended, for this very purpose.  Let’s explore: WWII Life Barter Kit:   (Photo Credit: Naval History and Heritage Command) Starting in World War II, the US Navy issued pilots Escape and Evasion (E&E) Barter Kits. This one, likely from the late 1950s or 1960s, was a sealed black rubber kit containing two gold rings, a gold chain and pendant, and of course a Milus Snow Star watch on a cloth strap. The watch boasted a 21 jewel movement with a date function.  The general idea was that if an aircraft was downed in enemy (or even friendly) territory, the items could be traded with locals to aid in an escape.  They were mostly issued in the Pacific theaters of WWII, Vietnam and the Korean War, although it is unclear whether they were actually leveraged for their intended purpose. Special Forces and the Vietnam War:   Navy SEALS wearing Tudor Submariners in Vietnam (Photo Credit: Unknown) There is significant documentation that Special Forces, Navy SEALs, and CIA officers wore Rolex, Tudors and other timepieces throughout the conflict in Southeast Asia.  While some of these watches were issued for their primary purpose- to tell time - they could also be purchased tax-free at the Post Exchange (PX) for a “months salary” - anywhere from $150-$250, which is a couple of thousand in today’s dollars.  While former MACV-SOG legend John Stryker Meyer, or “Tilt” to those that know him, told W.O.E. that many of his comrades purchased Rolex watches that were to be used as a potential bartering tool during escape and evasion, we have not yet seen documented examples of watches actually used for this purpose.  U-2 Incident-Cold War:   USAF pilot Gary Powers holds a model of the U-2, a high-altitude reconnaissance aircraft.  On May 1st, 1960, USAF pilot Francis Gary Powers was shot down while flying a reconnaissance mission in Soviet airspace, causing the infamous 1960 U-2 incident that had significant diplomatic implications during the height of the Cold War. Powers carried an E&E kit containing maps, a compass, gold coins, Soviet Rubles, and four gold watches. Of course, Powers was immediately apprehended and was unable to utilize the watches for their intended purpose. He spent 1 year, 9 months, and 10 days as a prisoner of the USSR. Gary Power’s E&E Kit on display in Moscow (Photo Credit: Unknown) Behind Enemy Lines- Bosnia:  O’Grady hugs his wife after rescue, a "Pepsi" Rolex GMT-Master visible on his wrist. (Photo Credit: Getty Images) In June 1995, Air Force Captain Scott O’Grady’s F-16 was shot down by a Serb-controlled 2K12 Kub mobile surface-to-air missile while flying a routine combat air patrol. In one of the few modern documented examples of E&E in hostile territory, O’Grady spent six days evading capture before his rescue by US Marines. Like many pilots, O’Grady wore a “Pepsi” Rolex GMT-Master on his wrist, a gift from his father. However, O’Grady did not view the watch as a tool for escape, but as a motivation to push him to return home.  O’Grady would later recall, “I knew what would happen if I was captured. The Rolex would be gone in a wink . . .  a nice little war souvenir for somebody.  I was determined that would never happen.  Nobody was going to capture me.” Breitling for a Toyota- Ukraine:  Andrew Smeaton, Breitling not pictured, (Photo Credit: toggle magazine) During the chaotic days following Russia’s 2022 invasion of Ukraine, Andrew Smeaton, the CISO of DataRobot, reportedly traveled to Ukraine to assist with the evacuation of one of his employees.  When he arrived in Poland, he found it was difficult to rent a car to drive into Ukraine.  So, he reportedly traded his Breitling for a “15-year-old Toyota that was low on oil and needed duct tape to keep the hood in place.”  The rest is history, Smeaton was able to drive the car into the warzone and make contact with his employee for a safe return.  Smeaton would later recall, "It's never like the movies, right? There's no James Bond. There's no Aston Martin."  (Photo Credit: James Rupley) The Verdict: So what's the verdict?  Has a timepiece been used to barter for one's escape from a warzone or bad situation?  Unfortunately, I’ve lost contact with that crusty old Case Officer, and despite my years serving “on the continent,” I was never able to confirm the story as fact or myth.  Like many great espionage stories, we must leave this question unanswered–for now. As we discussed in a previous Dispatch, "Timepiece Crime And Traveling With Watches," things have changed and today the risk of traveling with a Rolex may outweigh the potential benefits.  At a certain point the watch may be more likely to get you in a bad situation than out of one.  It is a liability, not an asset.  Our exploration of “Watches of Espionage” is still in its infancy, and we would not be surprised to learn of a story where a Rolex or other high-end timepiece was used by a Case Officer or SpecOps operator to get out of a jam. If you have, drop us a line–you won’t have to trade your watch for the opportunity to tell the story.    Read Next: Criminal Rolex Gangs And Traveling With Watches, Part I This article has been reviewed by the CIA's Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

This Dispatch is a counter argument to the previous Dispatch “James Bond Should Wear a Rolex” To those familiar with modern fiction, the inclusion of extreme detail for items such as the tools of the hero’s trade are incredibly common, but rarely to the extent found in Ian Fleming’s text written 70 years ago. Authors today rarely go the distance to ground their characters in the real world as much as Fleming, with the exception of a few, notably Jack Carr in his James Reece saga. Such level of detail has created passionate responses in readers to the choices made since Fleming’s first novel in 1953, and even today, we continue to discuss these issues at length. Bond's Galco Executive Shoulder Holster, Walther P99 Gen 1, and Omega Seamaster Professional 2531.80.00, which first appeared with an automatic movement in 1997's Tomorrow Never Dies. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/ @omegabondwatches) Today, I am thrilled to be writing in the Dispatch. My name is Caleb Daniels (@commandobond), and I am a lifelong fan of all things Bond, with a particular passion for his style and selection of daily carry items. While this certainly lends a focus to sartorial items, holsters, and handguns, it also includes one of the most important pieces of any discerning gentleman’s wardrobe – his timepiece. I’m grateful for the chance to share my viewpoint today in a playful response to the “Why Rolex” piece previously published. Here, we will first share the full story of Omega’s origins with James Bond, followed by a detailed analysis of the history of product placement in Bond, and the critical role it plays in keeping the franchise alive. While this piece does not serve as a direct response to the first Dispatch, it aims to present a more thorough history of Bond, offer a better understanding of why adjustments have been made, and propose a case for why we can celebrate Omega’s inclusion in 007’s history. The Omega Story I’d like to begin by first clearing the air and telling the true story of how Omega found its way into the Bond films. While today it is clearly one of the most powerful and important marketing relationships in cinema, it did not start that way. Pierce Brosnan and Omega (Photo Credit: Unknown) Rather, it is due to the actions of costume designer Lindy Hemming. Hemming’s journey with Bond began in GoldenEye (1995), and she was faced with a challenge that few had been faced with before. There was to be a new Bond actor (Pierce Brosnan), one that was coming on the heels of a commercial disaster (Dalton’s second and final outing Licence to Kill, which released inopportunely against Batman ’89 and suffered the consequences). This was also to be the first Bond film to be made post the fall of the Soviet Union. The relevance of Bond was in question, as was the prospect of GoldenEye. The space between Licence to Kill and GoldenEye was the longest gap between films to date, six years, and with the poor reception of the previous one, it seemed as if Bond’s journey on the silver screen may be at an end. This was certainly at the forefront of everyone’s mind during the production of GoldenEye, and yet it was in the face of these challenges that arguably one of the finest Bond films was created. Now, what exactly does this have to do with Omega? Like every other Bond actor’s first outing, the goal of the film was to reintroduce the character through the lens of that era. Think Live and Let Die (1973). Moore was introduced wielding a revolver (although he carries a PPK in the film, promo imagery and the finale leaned heavily on wheel guns), sipping bourbon (not vodka martinis) and smoking cigars (not cigarettes). Minor adjustments to the layperson, but significant shifts to the stalwart fan. This process, and the space between films inspired Hemming to take a step back from Rolex, as she explained in a New York Times article. “There hadn’t been a Bond for a few years and I was given the opportunity to rethink him,” she said. “I wanted him to be more modern and European.” With that motive in mind, she looked to those she knew for guidance, including friends of her father who were Naval men, and who preferred Omega. “They were gentlemen, good guys, ready for anything,” she said. “Omega was perfect for a Naval commander who dived and rescued people.” In Hemming’s words, Rolex was not the brand of the time for a man like Bond in 1995. “The Rolex watch had become rather flash,” Ms. Hemming said. “Rolex was part of a city boy culture. It didn’t seem appropriate for Bond at that moment.” What’s most important, however, is the fact that the original deal did not include product placement. Hemming herself reached out to Omega and was given a Quartz movement Seamaster 300M, reference number 2541.80.00. Bond's Galco Executive Shoulder Holster, Omega Seamaster Professional  2541.80.00 Quartz Movement, on a Hirsch Toronto and (non-explosive) Parker Jotter pen. (Photo Credit: Rupley/@Omegabonwatches) “There was no product placement incentive in 1995 whatsoever. I went to them, and of course they were interested. But it was no more than helping us. They gave us the watches for nothing.” (Photo Credit: Bond Franchise, Thunderballs) I find this to be an important detail in this story. While this relationship quickly expanded past a costume designer’s choice and into one of the most foundational product deals in cinema, like with Fleming, it came from a natural and organic place and does not deserve to be chastised on those grounds. Rather, like many of Fleming’s own choices, this was a selection that was made by personal preference to match the moment, and then later became a marketing engine to keep the film series alive. Fleming Lore & Product Placement (Photo Credit: Rupley) Fleming was a true pioneer. He sought in his writing to clearly ground Bond in the world around him, despite the incredible adventures he found himself part of. It’s this level of detail that still allows fans today to source and locate everything from the toiletries of Bond to his preferred alcohol brands (for example, just ask my friend James Rupley about his fruitless attempts to get a bottle of Old Grand-dad bourbon featured in the novel Live and Let Die), recipes for scrambled eggs, and in the case of this article, his timepieces. In this section, we will be pulling from Fleming’s own letters surrounding his time writing Bond, as found in the book The Man with the Golden Typewriter, Ian Fleming’s James Bond Letters. (Photo Credit: Rupley) Today, this level of detail, particularly in the vein of firearms and watches, is often met with skepticism, complaints, and even accusations of pay-offs for the inclusion of such pieces. Fleming, however, wrote long before product placement was the standard fare, and he set the stage for the cinematic Bond to take part in the very same level of intense detail. His unique passion was for verisimilitude, the creation of hyper-real worlds and adventures for his fictional hero. As Fleming himself said in a letter written in response to the director of the fragrance brand Floris, which had written him thanking him for their brief inclusion in the novel Moonraker, “My books are spattered with branded products of one sort or another, as I think it is stupid to invent bogus names for products which are household words, and you may be interested to know that this is the first time a name-firm has had the kindly thought of acknowledging the published tribute.” -Ian Fleming to Michael Bodenham, Esq., Director, Floris Ltd., 89 Jerymn Street, London, S.W.1. Floris is a brilliant example of a brand that found itself included due to its own use in Fleming’s personal life. His preferred fragrance, No. 89, is still available today and is a favorite of Bond fans throughout the world, again showing the staying power of even the smallest of association with 007. In fact, Floris has happily leaned into the Bond connection, even releasing a No. 007 scent for the 60th anniversary celebrations last year. (Photo Credit: Rupley/ @Omegabonwatches) (Photo Credit: Bond Franchise / Omega) From day one of film production, it seems that Fleming was being written by brands asking for placement deals in Doctor No. Fleming wrote producer Harry Saltzman about such things and an unspecified brand in 1961, and his letter seems to set some clear parameters for how he selected products, a template that has been followed well since. Fleming to Harry Saltzman December 7th, 1961: “My Dear Harry,I have acknowledged the attached but told them to get in direct touch with your Company.Incidentally, I expect you will be getting similar approaches from other branded products used by James Bond.I don’t know what your policy in the matter will be, but I have personally found that the use of branded names in my stories helps the verisimilitude, so long as the products are quality products.Admittedly one is giving free publicity to these people, but I don’t think it matters so long as the products are in fact really good.Anyway, over to you.” Again, while Fleming himself never was paid for an endorsement, he certainly understood the power of it in producing realism, and left the decision to the film producers for how to proceed. (Photo Credit: Rupley) While the films have been met with scrutiny as described above, product placement contracts have continued to provide fans with new silver screen adventures for ages. Tomorrow Never Dies reportedly covered 100% of its product budget with brand tie-ins in 1997, and 2012’s Skyfall had nearly a third of its budget covered by a deal with Heineken. The producers of Bond have attributed this level of detail to Fleming’s work as well. The reality is, we may not have the caliber of films with the incredible production quality and stunt work that we have today without these endorsements. “Fleming describes in great detail all the things that Bond uses, whether it comes down to a glass of wine, a meal he is eating, a car he is driving, or what suit he is wearing. That’s how Bond became synonymous with quality goods. That notion really started with the books. If you think you may not be alive tomorrow, you might as well have the best of everything.” – Barbara Broccoli Now, while Fleming wrote with a great deal of intricate detail surrounding Bond’s clothes, tools, cars, and more, it took him until On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, book number 11, to switch Bond to a Rolex. Fleming’s original choice, and defense of it over a Rolex, was described by Fleming in a letter to a fan in 1958 (five years before OHMSS was published). This letter was written in response to a fan’s request that Bond upgrade his timepiece to, seemingly based on Fleming’s response, a Rolex Oyster Perpetual. For those unfamiliar with Fleming, he often referred to himself as the biographer of Bond, and frequently wrote as if his character were a real man, which is clear in the letter below. "June 5, 1958I have just got back from abroad to find your sapient rebuke of 007’s timekeeping equipment.I have discussed this with him and he points out that the Rolex Oyster Perpetual weighs about six ounces and would appreciably slow up the use of his left hand in combat. His practice, in fact, is to use fairly cheap, expendable wrist watches on expanding metal bracelets which can be slipped over the thumb and used in the form of a knuckle-duster, either on the inside or outside of the hand.In passing on his comments to you, I would add that James Bond has trained himself to tell time by the sun in either hemisphere within a few minutes.Thank you, nevertheless, for raising the point and 007 wishes to assure you that when an appropriate time-piece is available he will wear it.” It seems that Fleming finally gave in, and wrote the Rolex Oyster Perpetual into On Her Majesty’s Secret Service five years later. His expanding metal bracelet remained. (Photo Credit: Rupley/ @Omegabondwatches) I make this case in its entirety to say this – Fleming himself only named a Rolex as Bond's dedicated watch after writing ten Bond stories, (Bond briefly wears one while diving in Live and Let Die, 1954, but according to Fleming's letter, daily wore other watches until OHMSS) and he himself argued against its inclusion initially as well. There’s nothing wrong with the brand, nor would I argue that Rolex watches do not have a place on Bond’s wrist. But if everything Fleming wrote remained today, and no evolution with the times had taken place, the character would still be driving a 1930s Bentley Blower and carrying a skeletonized .25 ACP Beretta that was underpowered and outdated even in 1953. Omega has a place in the Bond story, and it is one born out of a reimagining of an iconic character, a reimagining that saved the franchise, inspired GoldenEye 007 N64, and created a new generation of fans. Deriding the brand or discounting its inclusion in the mythos is a misunderstanding of history. Both Rolex and Omega have a place in the legacy of Bond, and they deserve our respect and celebration. (Photo Credit: Rupley) My sincere thanks to WOE for the opportunity to write this counter argument, my friend Lorenzo Anselmo (@omegabondwatches) for providing me and James Rupley with unfettered access to his astounding Omega collection. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.   Read Next: James Bond should Wear A Rolex  —----------------------------------------------------------- The photography above, and much of the text stems from an upcoming project from Headstamp Publishing @headstamp and Caleb Daniels (@commandobond) – the first comprehensive study of all the firearms of James Bond, including every novel (Fleming and otherwise) and every screen treatment of the character. Other critical items, such as his watches, will be discussed in great detail, dissecting the most essential carry implements of one of the world’s most celebrated action heroes, James Bond, 007. Follow @headstamp and @commandobond to keep abreast of this project – so much more to come.

At its core, the Breitling Aerospace is a functional tool watch. The dual digital screens of the chronometer-certified "SuperQuartz" have practical features including a digital chronograph, second time zone, day and date, alarm, and countdown timer. In the intelligence business, these would be useful features for conducting clandestine operations where time matters. While serving overseas with the CIA, the second time feature would be set to Washington D.C. in order to quickly confirm when my headquarters-based counterparts would arrive in the office to check secure communications. The digital timer was particularly useful and was used to log activities during surveillance operations in African capitals, time custodial debriefings of ISIS members, and to record legs of Surveillance Detection Runs.

There are a few accessories that every watch owner needs, and a durable two-piece leather strap is one of them. So we went out and designed our own using the best craftsmen in America.  The Jedburgh is a two piece English Bridle Leather Strap and the Desert Night Camouflage (DNC) is a two piece leather/canvas strap using repurposed camouflage uniforms.

Forty years have passed since the introduction of the Casio G-Shock in 1983. And while the basic formula behind the world’s most durable watch has remained largely unchanged since the legendary DW-5000C first hit store shelves, the world of warfare and the United States Military in particular have made significant strides in both equipment and tactical doctrine. Conflicts in Panama, the Persian Gulf, and Bosnia/Herzegovina were waged in a bygone analog era, influenced by lessons learned in the Vietnam War. But the terrorist attacks of September 11th changed all of that, embroiling the United States in a new type of war based on counter-insurgency in the digitally-augmented age. 

Readers of thrillers set in World War II and even some non-fiction histories of the OSS and SOE could easily assume the kit of these “special forces” operators was highly specialized and the result of great care and curation in OSS and SOE headquarters. The reality was that early in the war, this kit was as much ad hoc as it was highly curated.