The Use Your Tools Ethos Is About Utility, Heritage, & Shared Experience, Not MSRP
By Benjamin Lowry
The watch media landscape is replete with lists of “affordable” watches, many of which are constructed based on brand input or marketing dollars, SEO optimization, or integrating affiliate links. The adage that you should not believe everything you read rings true, but for many, these lists are helpful, providing a useful starting point for further research for anyone who does not live among the weeds. With that in mind, we created a list of relatively affordable watches specifically tailored to the needs of our community.
From barrel-chested, bearded GWOT veterans or current service members considering their first real timepiece to seasoned watch nerds with serious collections to law enforcement officers looking for a capable analog alternative to G-Shock or Garmin, everyone’s path to watches is different, and they all matter. The Use Your Tools ethos does not discriminate, and whether they cost $100 or $10,000, the best watches are capable of a lifetime of service as tools and talismans.
Words like “attainable” or “affordable” mean different things to different people, but here, we’ll stick to analog tool watches priced south of $1,000. If it isn’t clear already, none of this list is sponsored, and these are all watches we have or would wear and use ourselves.
For general guidance, check out W.O.E.’s article on advice for buying a watch HERE.
Casio Duro - $50

Also included in our helpful guide for newbies, What Should I Buy For My First Watch?, the Casio Duro is an unavoidable reality in the arena of horological attainability. With 200 meters of legitimate water resistance, a screw-down crown, an inoffensive design, numerous color configurations, and a legendary reputation for reliability, the Duro is the least expensive analog watch we would trust for amphibious activities. Considering the price, the Duro is, of course, not perfect. The rubber strap, bracelet, and luminescent material are some of the worst in the business, but for less than the cost of a sushi dinner in DC, the Duro is a lot of dive-style watch and an excellent, inexpensive choice for our community.
Marathon General Purpose Mechanical - $525

In the W.O.E. space, Marathon is a big deal and produces some of the last analog issued watches (READ HERE). Marathon’s answer to a basic infantryman’s watch is the General Purpose Mechanical or GPM. A svelte 34mm in diameter and equipped with a composite case available in several tactical colors, the GPM is something like an American CWC G10, designed to be smaller, unassuming, and easily integrated into a warfighter’s loadout. For just over $500, the GPM leans into an automatic caliber from Seiko, meaning reliability isn’t going to be an issue. One drawback for some is the 16mm lug width, which makes for an arrestingly small strap, but the GPM was designed as a tool, not to conform to The Wall Street Journal’s supposed fashion trends.
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical - $675

Swiss-made mechanical watches under $1,000 are scarce compared to their Japanese counterparts, but the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical has dutifully occupied this price point for years. Emulating Hamilton’s World War II era field watches, the Khaki Field Mechanical is a rare hand-wound field watch with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. Like the CWC G10, which we'll certainly get to, this particular Khaki Field is only rated to 50 meters of water resistance, so we wouldn’t recommend the watch for diving duty. However, for the vast majority out there who don’t dive, this is a solid Swiss field watch with an impressive history, several color configurations to choose from, and a design format that feels like it might have come from a grizzled veteran’s estate sale.
Bulova Lunar Pilot - $895

Where Omega’s associations with the space program and the Moon are well established and at the center of the brand’s broader marketing effort, a lesser-known and inexpensive watch with a direct lunar connection is the Bulova Lunar Pilot, which is based on an obscure Bulova chronograph worn on Apollo 15 by astronaut Dave Scott in 1971. The modern Lunar Pilot is a 43.5mm chronograph with an intriguing proprietary quartz caliber that is accurate to within a few seconds per year. For what it’s worth, Bulova is also a brand with significant history with the W.O.E. Community, having produced watches like the A-11 for the Allied war effort during WWII. Chronographs in this price range are altogether rare, and the Lunar Pilot is a good one if you like a watch that comes with a history lesson, which you should.
Seiko Prospex SPB121 - $725

Any list of relatively inexpensive watches, especially those intended for hard use, would be incomplete without Seiko, a brand we have called the Toyota of watches. While the Japanese watchmaker’s legend may be closely associated with dive watches, including the 6309 and SKX, one of our favorite Seiko models for the Use Your Tools approach is the Alpinist reference SPB121. With 200 meters of water resistance, an internal rotating compass bezel, an automatic caliber with 70 hours of power reserve, and a few quirky design elements, the Alpinist is Seiko’s field watch extraordinaire, and an excellent option for anyone looking for a capable tool watch with more personality than many options in the price range.
CWC Royal Navy Diver - $785

Founded in 1972 for no reason other than supplying the British Ministry of Defence with capable wristwatches, CWC, or Cabot Watch Company, is a brand near and dear to our hearts. Our entry point into the brand was the blacked-out SBS, but the more versatile, less tactical option for everyday wear is the standard Royal Navy Diver, the modern version of the watch that replaced the Rolex Mil-Sub in 1980. Heritage aside, the RN Diver is a clean, capable dive watch with a no-date format, a legible design proven in military diving contexts, 300 meters of water resistance, and fixed lug bars requiring a pull-through strap. For a low-profile wearing experience, we recommend the new NOFORN.
Citizen Aqualand JP2008-06E - $595

Often overshadowed by watches from Seiko, including the legendary SKX007 and modern SRPE93 “Turtle”, Citizen is an under-recognized icon in the arena of military service. Since its release in 1985, the Aqualand has been issued to and used by Danish Frogmen, US Navy SEALs, RAN Clearance Divers, and the Special Boat Service. Celebrating 40 years since its birth, Citizen unveiled the JP2008-06E anniversary model over the summer, and I had the opportunity to take the watch diving in Lake Michigan. For less than $600, the modern Aqualand provides integrated depth measurement in a distinctive, surprisingly wearable ana-digi package. It may be a polarizing design, but there’s no arguing against the Aqualand’s military heritage and utility, especially in a diving context.
Seiko Prospex SRPE93 - $525

The modern descendant of the 6309 “Turtle”, a watch I have called the most iconic military watch of all time, the SRPE93 had a lot to live up to when it was released way back in 2021. Luckily, the Turtle’s successor delivers with a slightly larger 45mm case, an updated hacking and hand-winding 4R36 caliber, and an overall design format that stays close to the OG without being a 1:1 reissue. For anyone who loves the old-school Turtle’s history, undisputed utility, and look, but doesn’t want to mess with vintage, the SRPE93 has carved out an interesting niche, acting almost like the SKX007 and 009 did years ago, but for an entirely new generation of watch nerds.
CWC G10 Military Issue - $340

CWC’s collection of dive watches may capture most of the shine the small brand receives, but its most prolific watch in military service is, by a huge margin, the humble G10. Relatively small at 36.5mm in diameter, the G10 has been issued to the British Ministry of Defence in the hundreds of thousands of examples because the watch simply works virtually everywhere except a maritime environment, where its limited 50-meter water resistance could be an issue. For anything on dry land, the G10 is a solid field tool for many jobs, with a Swiss quartz caliber, a battery hatch for DIY battery changes, and a legible dial format that has withstood the test of time on the wrists of thousands of tea-drinking British service members around the world.
Momentum UDT - $369

Based on the original Chronosport UDT, which stood for Underwater Dive Timer, the updated Momentum UDT feels more like a reimagining rather than a true reissue or homage. Worn by countless military members, including fictional US Army Special Forces veteran John Rambo, as well as real Navy SEALs, the UDT was one of the badass action watches of the golden mustache era that was the 1980s. Surviving examples are rare and typically in rough shape, so it was particularly interesting to see Momentum, which is owned by the same family as the original Chronosport brand, bringing the UDT back to life. The new UDT doesn’t resemble the original as much as some might prefer, but the addition of a solar quartz caliber and screw-down pushers means the modern watch is more capable and durable compared to its vintage forebear.
Marathon Navigator - $500

Better known for its SAR collection of dive watches that lands well above $1,000, Marathon also has several interesting picks landing in our price range, including the aforementioned GPM and this one. Developed in collaboration with aviators at Kelly Air Force Base in 1986, the Navigator is Marathon’s purpose-built pilot’s watch. When housed within a composite case (stainless steel is also an option), the Navigator is also impressively affordable at around $500 and complete with a rotating 12-hour bezel and an asymmetric case profile designed for comfort. Limited only by its 50-meter water resistance, the Navigator is an intriguing, deep cut choice for anyone looking to celebrate the history of military aviation with a capable watch.
Seiko 5 Sports SSK023 - $450

Again tapping into Seiko, we move from the Prospex collection to the Seiko 5 Sports line, which was famously issued to and used by MACV-SOG operators during the Vietnam War. While it isn’t a reissue of any specific military-adjacent reference, the SSK023, the field GMT of the Seiko 5 series, feels like a spiritual successor to those battle-proven models. Measuring 39.4mm in diameter and 47.9mm in length, the SSK023 is going to fit almost everyone and, bolstered by 100 meters of water resistance, makes a strong argument for an everyday tool watch that can do almost anything while offering the convenience of easily tracking a second time zone with its automatic 4R34 caliber. It’s a Seiko, so the bracelet is just ok, but with 20mm lugs, any number of W.O.E. straps would get the job done and look the part.
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical - $975

Calling back to a vintage British military design manufactured by both Hamilton and CWC starting in 1973, the Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical feels like a vintage watch on the wrist despite offering an updated 80-hour power reserve and 100 meters of water resistance. The core design was created with the Royal Air Force and aviation in mind, but we’d argue this is simply a great field watch for anyone looking for an old-school wearing experience and smaller dimensions, with the Pilot Pioneer’s cushion-style case measuring only 33mm wide and 36mm in length. Like the Khaki Field Mechanical, this is also a hand-winding watch as opposed to automatic, meaning this is for someone who appreciates interacting with their watch every few days.
Elliot Brown Holton Professional - $585

Along with the CWC SBS, another dive watch from a small independent brand has become issued equipment for the British Ministry of Defence, and that watch is the Holton Professional from Elliot Brown. Developed in 2015 in close collaboration with the Special Boat Service (SBS), the Holton is a purpose-built tool diver developed and tested by a Tier One maritime special operations unit, the kind of caché that would have most brands leaning heavily into the association for marketing’s sake. Charmingly, that’s not Elliot Brown’s style. The Holton is a big watch at 43mm in diameter and 52mm in length, but that is probably a good thing considering this watch’s intended environment. A Swiss quartz movement, excellent luminescent material, and a legible dial and handset round out what is likely one of the most utilitarian and interesting modern divers under $1,000, even without the cool special ops backstory.
Sangin Atlas II - $850

Founded by a former MARSOC Raider named Jacob Servantes in 2016, Sangin Instruments is a brand that is as close to the W.O.E. Community as any, producing nothing other than capable tool watches informed by Servantes’ military experience and passion for watches. The Atlas has been one of Sangin’s core models since the beginning, acting as a duty-oriented diver with impressive specifications for the price point. The most recent Atlas II provides a La Joux-Perret G100 caliber with 68 hours of power reserve, rare to see under $1,000, as well as 200 meters of water resistance and a soft iron inner cage protecting the movement from magnetic interference. Since the beginning, Jake has been clear that you don’t have to be a special operator to wear a Sangin, but even if you are, this is a watch that can handle the gig.
The James Brand × Timex Automatic GMT - $749

A wildcard pick for this list is The James Brand × Timex Automatic GMT, coming from a brand better known to our community for its inexpensive digital watches, which were used extensively alongside G-Shock and Garmin models in the Global War on Terror. Moving into a new price point, Timex’s collaboration with the EDC and design-focused James Brand is an elevated GMT tool watch powered by the Miyota 9075. Also providing 200 meters of water resistance, a screw-down crown, a sapphire crystal, and a ceramic bezel insert, this collaboration is an intriguing diversion for a brand better known for the $50 Ironman.
Final Thoughts
At the end of the day, the watches listed here aren’t about hype, brand prestige, or the approval of anonymous commenters on the internet. They’re about capability, reliability, and connection; tapping into the shared understanding among those who actually use their tools. Whether you’re a warfighter deployed overseas, a cop pulling night shifts, or a civilian who simply appreciates functional design and honest craftsmanship, these watches represent something universal: Good gear doesn’t always require a payment plan, and the right watch, when chosen with intent, can become a companion for a lifetime of shared experience.
In a watch world increasingly driven by marketing dollars, the illusion of status, and algorithms, the Use Your Tools ethos reminds us that the true value of a watch isn’t in the MSRP, but in the missions and memories it carries along the way.
If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.
Read Next: Inside The Watch Culture Of CIA Paramilitary Officers

20 comments
Glad to see CWC getting attention! To me, they have some of the most reasonably priced tool watches on the market, no less than 12 models approved by the British MOD for sale. They are also a great source for reasonably priced straps.
As I’m reading, I’m thinking that there better be an Eliot Brown! Love my Holton Professional; I’m not a diver nor a LARPer, just really appreciate the tool watch esthetic in all my watches.
you should have a look at the RZE UTD800. Digital, with sapphire and Grade 2 Titanium case hardened to 12000v standard on a very comfortable elastic strap. Great digital tool watch for the money
While the price of Sangin is great, the limited releases and timing make buying one a pain. Why wait for 6-8 months for 50/50 chance at buying the one you want when you can just run to the NEX/PX and grab a Seiko?
Pretty good list not going to please everyone. The ones missed for me:
CWC G10 fatboy reissue in particular
Citizen Fugu the vintage models for me which you can still buy
Timex the MK1 mechanical releases
Something from Certina they have some nice affordable watches with some nice heritage.